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magnilux - Astronomy Technology Today

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PROTOSTAR’S FLOCKBOARD<br />

knife to cut out the focuser hole, and reinstall<br />

the hardware. Collimate and enjoy the<br />

contrast!<br />

No stickiness! No carefully unpeeling<br />

wax paper in terror of an air bubble. No<br />

using a broomstick to reach the middle of<br />

the tube. Cut, roll, spring, poke, cut, enjoy.<br />

Is it that easy I ordered some to find out.<br />

The scope I had in mind to flock was<br />

the Vixen R150s, a 6-inch Newtonian with<br />

a unique sliding focuser and very good optics.<br />

Like most aluminum and steel tubes,<br />

the R150s is painted with a flat(ish) black<br />

paint inside. The scope is a bit short for<br />

the focal length, so the tube doesn’t<br />

serve as much of a baffle. In my light polluted<br />

driveway, it could use all the help it<br />

could get!<br />

Working with the FlockBoard was indeed<br />

as easy as Bryan promised, and it wasn’t<br />

very tool intensive either. I needed a<br />

large flat surface to cut on, a sharp utility<br />

knife, a T-square to cut a perpendicular<br />

line, and a screwdriver to remove the tube<br />

hardware. You can see my workspace and<br />

materials in Image 1.<br />

FlockBoard comes in a standard width<br />

of 24 inches; the length of course can be<br />

custom cut. It turns out that the R150s’s<br />

inner tube wall’s circumference was almost<br />

exactly 24 inches, so I didn’t have to trim<br />

the width and I could use it lengthwise.<br />

Owners of larger-diameter tubes can<br />

order a custom length equal to the inner<br />

circumference and then flock the tube in<br />

24-inch sections, trimming the last piece<br />

to fit.<br />

First, I prepared the tube. This involved<br />

removing the primary mirror and<br />

cell, and the focuser/secondary, which in<br />

the R150s is a single unit. Then, I measured<br />

the length of the tube and placed my<br />

FlockBoard flat on my cutting surface as<br />

shown in Image 2. I immediately noticed<br />

that the cut edges were not square to the<br />

sides…I had a big parallelogram. Bryan<br />

sent me more than I requested, so this didn’t<br />

hurt my plans, though it does mean a<br />

few inches that ProtoStar could have sold<br />

to someone else. So I trimmed the first end<br />

Image 4<br />

so it was square, measured the length from<br />

there and made the final cut. I found that<br />

going over the line twice lightly with the<br />

knife made for a cleaner cut than trying to<br />

cut it in one heavy pass.<br />

Once cut, I rolled the board up and<br />

dropped it into the tube as shown in Image<br />

3. Yes, it’s easy enough that you can do it<br />

one-handed and take a photograph with<br />

the other hand! I had to reroll it a bit a few<br />

times inside the tube to get both ends of it<br />

square against the inner flange of the tube<br />

rings but it was far less effort than any selfadhesive<br />

material I’d tried to use and the<br />

non-adhesive nature of it meant infinite<br />

do-overs. A rarity in life in general.<br />

Because I was flocking from the front<br />

of the tube to just below the face of the primary<br />

mirror, and because there is no separate<br />

spider, I didn’t have to poke any holes<br />

<strong>Astronomy</strong> TECHNOLOGY TODAY 69

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