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International Dyestuff Industry - ColorantsHistory.Org

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Greenford Green Works, 1858. Edelstein Collection, Hebrew<br />

University.<br />

Unfortunately, the product proved difficult to sell, except for the limited application of<br />

dyeing silk, because of the difficulties of attachment to cotton. Consequently, there was<br />

little enthusiasm from the calico printers in Lancashire and Scotland.<br />

Nevertheless, purple had become the leading color of fashion in Paris and London, probably<br />

because of the introduction of a fast and brilliant lichen dye, French purple, manufactured<br />

by a firm in Lyon. Perkin was under pressure to develop a suitable mordant for cotton,<br />

which he achieved at the same time as Robert Pullar. Then the product had to be sold to<br />

the printers, which required considerable travel throughout Britain and trials in the factories<br />

of potential consumers. These succeeded, and the synthetic color, at first named Tyrian<br />

Purple, after the fabled Levantine dye, became a success early in 1859. [13]<br />

Perkin at age 22 (1860). Edelstein Collection, Hebrew University.<br />

The production of the new color required plentiful supplies of aniline, made in two<br />

steps—nitration and reduction—from benzene, which was distilled from coal tar. At first the<br />

process apparatus was made of glass, but when demand picked up the Perkins introduced<br />

small hand stirred iron equipment. These reactors were scaled up, and mechanized, by<br />

Edward Chambers Nicholson of the South London chemical manufacturer Simpson, Maule &<br />

Nicholson; the partners were also former students of Hofmann. Perkin would not license his<br />

patented process to other firms in Britain, which meant that new progress was made<br />

elsewhere. Lyon dyers, who specialized in silks, were soon experimenting with the aniline<br />

reaction. They and innovative Parisian firms, such as Depoully and Castelhaz, manufactured<br />

aniline purple on a considerable scale from the end of 1858, as did one or two German

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