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HDLCR - Niles Audio

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EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET<br />

IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE SECTIONS ON SPEAKER<br />

PLACEMENT ON PAGE 6 AND RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION ON<br />

PAGE 9. BE SURE NOT TO DRILL OR CUT THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.<br />

IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING OR SAWING, STOP!<br />

1. Locate studs or joists by using a stud sensor or by hand knocking. Do not place the<br />

edge of the cutout directly next to a stud or joist, since the frame and bracket will<br />

extend beyond the cutout.<br />

16<br />

2. At the planned cutout site, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole just barely through the wall, about<br />

an inch below the center of your proposed speaker location.<br />

NOTE: IN MOST HOMES, THE WALL THICKNESS IS 1/2 TO 5/8 INCH.<br />

3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger and bend it to create a right angle. Poke the<br />

“L-shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it in a<br />

complete circle, as shown in Figure 12.<br />

4. Continue turning the coat hanger as you move it<br />

into the cavity to a depth of approximately<br />

4 inches. If you feel an obstruction, fill the hole(s)<br />

with spackling compound and repeat steps<br />

1 through 4 at a new location.<br />

5. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle,<br />

hold the supplied template up to the wall or ceiling<br />

and level it in the horizontal or vertical position. Use<br />

a pencil to outline the cutout on the surface and<br />

then drill the four corner holes with a 1/4-inch bit<br />

(see Figure 13 on page 17).<br />

Figure 12. Using a coat<br />

hanger to check for obstructions<br />

behind the wall speaker site.<br />

6. If you are cutting drywall, use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the outline with the saw<br />

at a 45-degree angle. That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is<br />

an unseen obstruction behind the wall.<br />

7. If you are cutting into a plaster ceiling, use masking tape to outline the penciled opening<br />

and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel to<br />

remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. To actually cut the lath, consider the<br />

following two professional methods:<br />

• Use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade for the quickest cut. However, sawing<br />

lath with a saber saw can easily vibrate plaster off the ceiling in a completely distant<br />

location, thereby creating more patchwork.<br />

• If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath instead.<br />

There is little risk with this method – it is just more time consuming.

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