Croatian Gastronomy - Nostromo

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04 swiss chard, toGEthEr with miŠanca - a mixturE of wild-Grown GrEEn plants - is thE BEst sidE dish for fish. Marachino liqueur is prepared from the finest variety of black cherry - the famous Maraska of Zadar. dalmatia Zadar the spine is removed from a fresh sardine, which is then dipped into a variety of breaded mixtures with aromatic herbs, briefly fried and served with freshly-made light vegetable sauces. t h E c h E E s E o f p a G The most highly acclaimed cheese in Croatia is Paški sir, the cheese from the island of Pag. Sheep bred on this island are among the smallest in the whole of the Mediterranean and therefore their milk yield is low, but it is the result of the meagre grazing abounding with medicinal herbs. The fierce bora swoops down from Velebit, whipping up the salty waters of the sea and blowing them across these meadows, which at times become white with salt, as if snow covered. Consequently, the milk that these sheep give is naturally salty and needs no additional salt. Cheese produced on this island, particularly in the cheese dairy in Kolan, has in recent years won the highest awards at prestigious exhibitions in the Mediterranean. It is in such demand that it is sold after a maturing period of only a few months. On rare occasions is it allowed to mature for a year or more and it is undoubtedly one of the finest sheep cheeses in the world. The quality of sheep milk from Pag is such that its curd is also regarded as a first class specialty. The whey remaining after curdled fresh cheese has been removed is heated and gently cooked, bringing to the surface a product resembling fresh clotted cheese, locally known as puina. It is excellent when served with home-cooked polenta or pasta, and makes a delicious dessert when mixed with Pag honey, and when used as filling for pancakes. B r u d E t Brudet, brujet, brodet or, if you will, brodetto, is the most common dish on the Croatian Adriatic, but it is especially loved throughout Dalmatia. In the Zadar, Šibenik and Split clusters culinary skills are measured against one’s ability to excel in the preparation of brudet. The magic of a good brudet is that it makes the types of fish normally regarded as nothing spe- 22 croatian Gastronomy cial reveal their hidden, unexpected qualities when combined with others in a finely balanced blend. The criterion of a fisherman’s brudet is the most practical one: it is made from the fish caught on the day, or night. It is difficult, indeed practically impossible, to list all the variations of this dish. The basis of the recipe is onion fried in olive oil, to which small fish are added whole, while larger ones are cut into pieces, followed by vegetables, spices, herbs, wine, prosecco, wine vinegar, and even sea water. The key condition for a good brudet is that it is made of several types of fish. The sequence in which individual types of fish are added is also important; indeed, bearing in mind the texture of their meat it can be crucial to the final Brudet, Brujet, Brodet or as some would say, BrodEtto, is thE most popular fish dish on thE croatian adriatic, and is particularly apprEciatEd in dalmatia. thE numBEr of its variations arE many.
thE adriatic sEa aBounds in many typEs of shEllfish: mussEls, arK shEll, oystErs... result, i.e. its flavour. In order to improve the flavour still further, many cooks like to add an occasional crab, or at least some shellfish. In the past the island of Zlarin was famous for its lobster brudet; in Skradin it is made from eels. Undoubtedly, though, the most curious is the brudet known as falši, which contains no fish, no crabs and no shellfish – only vegetables and spices, and a stone taken from the sea! l j u t i k a Among connoisseurs, ljutika, a particular type of onion, is highly prized for its rich, full flavoured taste, while at the same time being less heavy on one’s stomach than other types of onion. In some areas of the Zadar, Šibenik and Split clusters, as well as in some other parts of the coastal region, ljutika is pickled in wine vinegar, the onion being unpeeled because it retains its true flavour much better and soup prEparEd with lEntils, chicK-pEas and frEsh vEGEtaBlEs is a nourishinG and tasty introduction to any midday mEal fish roastEd ovEr hot coals is a Gastronomic dElicacy par ExcEllEncE. For most fishermen and the true connoisseur, there is no better fish than the popular pilchard. they last longer, but peeled when they need to be pickled faster. In these parts of Croatia ljutika is of exceptional quality and really comes into its own in a brudet. croatian Gastronomy 23 ljutika, a particular typE of onion, mild and rich in flavour, is oftEn picKlEd in rEd winE vinEGar. srdEla, or pilchards, thE chEap- Est of fish, is frEquEntly most apprEciatEd - and whEn prEparEd By ExpErts it is a top ranGE dElicacy.
Page 2 and 3: Croatian Gastronomy
Page 4 and 5: Cultivation of certain varieties of
Page 6 and 7: 01 stria
Page 8 and 9: 01 istria Oysters from the Lim chan
Page 10 and 11: 01 istria Until very recently the w
Page 12 and 13: 02 varner
Page 14 and 15: 02 lamBs rEarEd on thE islands of t
Page 16 and 17: lika — karlovac 03
Page 18 and 19: 03 GacKa rivEr lika—karlovac trou
Page 20 and 21: almatia zadar 04
Page 24 and 25: almatia 05 šibenik
Page 26 and 27: 05 GrillEd fish will rElEasE its fu
Page 28 and 29: almatia 06 split
Page 30 and 31: 06 dalmatias plit Vis is the island
Page 32 and 33: almatia 07 dubrovnik
Page 34 and 35: 07 rožata, othErwisE Known as crEm
Page 36 and 37: lavonia 08
Page 38 and 39: 08 In Croatia the penny bun has alw
Page 40 and 41: central croatia 09
Page 42 and 43: central 09 croatia The mixture is s
Page 44 and 45: zagreb city of 10
Page 46 and 47: 10 on dolac, cEntral marKEt placE o
Page 48 and 49: 10 VrGanj, or the pEnny Bun, is thE
Page 50 and 51: 10 younG culinary stars of croatia
Page 52 and 53: 10 fancycomBination of potato and c
Page 54 and 55: general information general informa

Croatian Gastronomy - Nostromo

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