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Croatian Gastronomy - Nostromo

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Good fish-papriKash must contain as<br />

many typEs of fish as possiBlE.<br />

frEshly Ground rEd papriKa as an<br />

addition to frEsh cottaGE chEEsE - a<br />

simply irrEsistiBlE comBination.<br />

intEnsE, hot flavours arE a synonym<br />

of slavonian <strong>Gastronomy</strong>.<br />

Cooking in the open is just as popular in Slavonia<br />

as it has always been, involving a great deal of<br />

passion, emotions and even nostalgia.<br />

slavonia is<br />

also Known<br />

for its many<br />

typEs of<br />

GrapE.<br />

available on <strong>Croatian</strong> markets, since they are bred in a<br />

number of fish farms. However, there are those who know<br />

that the range of fish on offer is far more varied: catfish<br />

and horned pout (liked for practical reasons because it<br />

has no small bones, just the spine) can often be found in<br />

continental fishmongers. Somewhat rarer is the very tasty<br />

pike perch and pike. Rarely, one can chance upon tench,<br />

a rather fatty but exquisitely flavoursome fish. Lately, in<br />

Zagreb’s Dolac market it has been possible to obtain, at<br />

more than reasonable prices, smoked common bream,<br />

an extremely tasty fish but best appreciated by the more<br />

patient connoisseur, as it is full of tiny bones. Eels cannot<br />

be bred in captivity but they do appear in fishmongers’<br />

shops. Among other types of fish found in clear and cold<br />

rivers, which are of interest to gastronomes, is the grayling,<br />

but one has to go out and catch it as it almost never<br />

appears on the markets.<br />

There is a fish dish known as paprikash, logically named<br />

fish paprikash, regarded as one of the most outstanding<br />

Slavonian specialties, but which can also be found<br />

in Zagreb, particularly on Fridays. A good fish paprikas<br />

demands as many types of fish as possible. It is prepared<br />

in a small (or sometimes not so small) cauldron and<br />

cooked over an open fire. Its main spice is paprika, hot<br />

and sweet. Hungarians in Croatia are renowned producers<br />

of top quality paprika, both ground and crushed. In the<br />

vicinity of Vukovar, especially in the village of Èakovci<br />

(not to be confused with the town of Èakovec), hot and<br />

sweet paprika of the highest world quality is grown, dried,<br />

crushed and ground.<br />

s a l e n j a c i<br />

Today, cakes made with pork fat seem like some distant<br />

example of gastro-archaeology, but when those who today are<br />

old were young, salenjaci were one of the most common desserts<br />

in many parts of the Slavonian and Zagreb clusters. Flaky pastry<br />

was made with minced fat, and stuffed with apricot or plum<br />

jam, or with walnut filling, prior to baking.<br />

podEranE Gać e<br />

(rippEd pants)<br />

Quite apart from their taste of traditional popular cakes,<br />

poderane gaæe owe their survival in no small measure to their<br />

highly memorable name. Rectangular-shaped cakes, the main<br />

ingredients of which are flour, sugar and eggs, with a touch of<br />

rum for a fulsome aroma, are nicked in two or three places<br />

before being fried in hot oil, the finished article resembling a<br />

ripped piece of cloth.<br />

croatian <strong>Gastronomy</strong><br />

39<br />

KulEn or Kulin -<br />

thE most hiGhly<br />

valuEd salami-typE<br />

product of<br />

slavonia.

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