kayaking the pacific islands. - Canoe & Kayak

weather by the Paparoa and Victoria Ranges but Lake Rotoiti still receives
about 2000mm per year. As it turns out, luck is on our side, helped by the fact
that this was the start of a near record summer that we’ve all enjoyed.
The other lake in the National Park is Lake Rotoroa. It’s larger and longer but
not quite so dramatic, receives twice the amount of rain per year as its sister,
and is accessed by a gravel road from the main Nelson- Buller highway. Our
intention was to kayak it but as Lake Rotoiti seemed such a really nice place
to hang out we didn’t quite make it..
Kayaking isn’t the only outdoor pursuit on the agenda. We chose a perfect
day to hike to the top of St Arnaud Range, walking through the shaded beech
forest then ascending onto tussock slopes above the bushline to reach the
rocky ridge at about 1750m. There we had fine views of the lake and endless
mountains to the east, west and south. It’s a five to six hour return excursion
on a well marked track.
Next day again dawns brilliant fine, so we make the most of it and kayak to
the very south end of the lake and explore the western arm. What pleasure
to sit back in the comfort of our kayak and admire the top of St Arnaud Range
where we had grunted by foot the day before. We spot a brown trout jumping.
Kayakers have a choice of two DoC huts at the southern end of the lake,
Coldwater Hut which sleeps 6, or Lakehead Hut (sleeps 30).
Lake Rotoiti doesn’t offer much of a challenge to a kayaker, unless there’s a
roaring southerly whipping up the lake. At less than 10km in length it is not
large enough for multi-day kayak touring, such as you would find on Lakes
Manapouri or Te Anau in the deep south ( but what a hell of a long drive that
would be for North Islanders) or Lake Waikaremoana in the North Island. But
it offers such easy access to lovely bays for launching your kayak, numerous
small pebbly beaches scattered along the eastern shoreline on which to enjoy
a stop off, and most of all the feeling of being right amongst the mountains
and native forests. And more good news: being a National Park, jet skis are
banned! Which means you can actually hear scores of tuis cavorting about
the tree tops.
We considered driving the two hours or so to Abel Tasman National Park for
a day’s kayaking but the tranquility of Lake Rotoiti wins over the thought of
peak holiday crowds at Kaiteriteri and Marahau, swarms of back-packers and
dozens of commercially guided sea kayakers. A shame that one of the most
outstanding kayaking locations in the country, if not on the planet, is just too
damned popular during the summer months.
Instead, leaving the kayak behind, we drive to charming Takaka for gourmet
pizza and then to Pohara beach, where we find at Totally Roasted café the
most delicious coffee we’ve just about ever had, anywhere in New Zealand.
It’s organic and Fair Trade coffee. We can just imagine how well it would go
down after a day or two sea kayaking.
Further on around the coast towards the end of the sealed road we catch a
glimpse of the northern/western end of Abel Tasman National Park coastline. It
sure looks alluring and, having walked the coastal track many yonks ago, I know
just how beautiful the beaches are. Sometime, maybe very early spring, or even
winter we’ll drive down to this part of the country again with our kayak.
We would though, also return to Nelson Lakes National Park without a second
thought. Dial up some nice weather and Lake Rotoiti is a truly rewarding
destination for relaxed kayaking, and walking in the mountains. There are not
many places offering such a special and satisfying combination.
Looking back towards the sun from
southern end of Lake.
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