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Lake Rotoiti<strong>the</strong><br />

South Island version<br />

By Stephen Le Couteur<br />

Christmas Day, paddling toward sou<strong>the</strong>rn end<br />

of Lake Rotoiti.<br />

Christmas Day 2007, <strong>the</strong> skies have cleared blue and we’ve<br />

just landed our double sea kayak on a beautiful small<br />

pebbly beach shaded by native trees, surrounded by views<br />

of mountains draped in pristine native forest and golden<br />

tussock, topped by rocky ridges and a few pockets of snow.<br />

This <strong>the</strong>n, is definitely not <strong>the</strong> Lake Rotoiti known to most<br />

North Islanders who’ve never been fortunate, or<br />

motivated enough to explore that o<strong>the</strong>r, bigger island<br />

just south of Wellington.<br />

It’s <strong>the</strong> Nelson Lakes National Park version. After an easy one and a half<br />

hour paddle we set ourselves up<br />

comfortably for <strong>the</strong> afternoon under<br />

<strong>the</strong> shade of a South Island beech<br />

tree. I take a breathtaking dip in <strong>the</strong><br />

crystal clear lake water, dry off in <strong>the</strong><br />

sun and can’t suppress a grin of pure<br />

delight. My partner Imelda, beams<br />

a huge smile too. We seem to have<br />

<strong>the</strong> whole lake and <strong>the</strong> mountains to<br />

ourselves. Not ano<strong>the</strong>r person, not<br />

a kayak in sight, just an occasional<br />

motor boat about half an hour apart.<br />

We can’t help but wonder, why at<br />

this time of year bo<strong>the</strong>r sea <strong>kayaking</strong><br />

Abel Tasman National Park along<br />

with hundreds of o<strong>the</strong>rs who endure<br />

bun fights every night over a space<br />

to camp on a beach or even a patch<br />

of sand to laze in <strong>the</strong> sun. And apart<br />

from all <strong>the</strong> water taxis, did you know<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are now also scenic helicopter<br />

flights over <strong>the</strong> Abel Tasman bays As <strong>the</strong> writer of ano<strong>the</strong>r article in this<br />

magazine some time ago wisely suggested, forget Abel Tasman in summer,<br />

kayak it in winter.<br />

This, <strong>the</strong> very first day of our Nelson Lakes excursion, is pure bliss. The only<br />

things missing, and it seems silly, given <strong>the</strong> huge amount of hatch space on<br />

board our Sea Bear double, are a foldable table, white table cloth (make<br />

that linen), champagne and glasses, and Christmas Turkey. But we’re not<br />

complaining, especially after <strong>the</strong> long escape from Auckland by car and <strong>the</strong><br />

sea journey from Wellington to Picton on <strong>the</strong> InterIslander ferry. Surprisingly,<br />

<strong>the</strong> friendly vehicle check-in lady waved us through without charging extra for<br />

<strong>the</strong> kayak with its metre-plus overhang at <strong>the</strong> rear of our station wagon. We<br />

had to book <strong>the</strong> return sailing back in August to get an ‘early saver’ type fare<br />

Time to stretch those kayakers’ legs. View over Lake Rotoiti on <strong>the</strong><br />

way to summit of St Arnaud Range.<br />

8 ISSUE FORTYsix • 2 0 0 8

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