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P-O Life n°29 (11.8MB) - Anglophone-direct.com

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were well represented. Many are now used for<br />

exhibitions and concerts.<br />

St Jacques was originally the Jewish Quarter,<br />

created in 1243, by James the Conqueror. He<br />

wished to develop Perpignan’s economy. Perpignan<br />

was be<strong>com</strong>ing known internationally for its cloth<br />

business and the drapers needed more money<br />

to improve their trade. Jews were well known as<br />

moneylenders. By offering them special privileges<br />

he persuaded them to live right next door to<br />

the cloth merchants and drapers. The ploy was<br />

immensely successful and all prospered. ( Until<br />

13th September 1493, that is. On that fateful day<br />

Ferdinand of Aragon and his queen, Isabelle of<br />

Castille, came to Perpigan and on the 21st of the<br />

same month, all Jews were given thirty days to<br />

leave, taking nothing with them. )<br />

In 1245 the same James the Conqueror gave<br />

the Dominicans land on which a leprosy hospital<br />

stood. It took them almost a century to <strong>com</strong>plete<br />

the soaring and beautiful building we see today.<br />

This time the photographs are hung on long wires,<br />

almost dwarfed by the height and beauty of their<br />

surroundings. A small courtyard joins the Chapelle<br />

Ste Dominique to the Chapelle du Tiers-ordre. The<br />

true splendour of the doorway was discovered<br />

during the preparations for a VISA festival, traces<br />

of colour indicating that the alternatively round<br />

and almond shaped arches were originally brightly<br />

painted. The Tiers-ordre chapel, full of dramatic<br />

19th century art, is where the “Trabucayres”, (bands<br />

of highwaymen) who terrorised the roads of the<br />

Albères in the mid 19th century were tried and<br />

condemned to death or hard labour.<br />

Outside is the Place de la Revolution Française<br />

where, in the dappled shade of tall plane trees, the<br />

lizard fountain spouts water at several tempting<br />

restaurants.<br />

For the most spectacular plane trees you<br />

must go to the Square Bir Hakeim. It was named<br />

in memory of the desert battle where, in May<br />

1942, the French held the superior strength of<br />

the German/Italian offensive at bay allowing the<br />

troops of Montgomery to defeat those of Rommel<br />

at El Alamein. The trees planted in 1809 are still<br />

there, the fountain still sparkles and, with the<br />

Promenade des Platanes, it is one of the main lungs<br />

of Perpignan.<br />

25

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