12 Carrousel du Louvre - BW Confidential

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Show review CONFIDENTIAL TFWA Asia Pacific n n n Seen & heard in show Pupa revealed it has just entered Thailand with two counters at the Paragon department stores in Bangkok. It plans to be in six malls in the country by the end of the year. The brand, which has been cautious about entering China, revealed that it is now evaluating the market in a more serious way. French skincare brand Condensé has opened an office in Hong Kong to develop its Asian business and to oversee its upcoming launch in China. The brand will also launch a website from its Hong Kong office. German company Mäurer & Wirtz put the focus on the men’s fashion brand Baldessarini, whose license it took over at the end of last year. The license was previously held by P&G. The company plans to launch a new fragrance for Baldessarini in the fall. Mäurer & Wirtz recently restructured its business into three divisions: Beauty (for masstige products) Prestige (for selective brands) and 4711 (for the company’s 4711 cologne franchise). The company plans to expand its prestige division and will likely add more selective brands in the near future. French company VAG showcased its new fragrance for fashion brand Leonard. The fragrance, simply called Leonard, is described as a new signature scent and according to VAG manager Anthony Gambirasio “marks a change of mood for the brand”. The floral oriental was created by Delphine Lebeau and Benoist Lapouza of Fragrance Resources. The fragrance will roll out in September and comes in 30ml, 50ml and 100ml. n n n China Revisited: heard at TFWA’s China workshop Travel retailer China Duty Free Group (CDFG) vp Charles Chen outlined that: • Its duty-free store in Sanya on Hainan island, China, which was completed in 2010 reported sales of just under $250m in one year. • The number of young consumers is increasing and that purchases by 18-30 year olds accounted for 40% of total sales at the Sanya store. • Some 67% of growth in luxury-goods sales was attributed to new customers mainly in second- and third-tier cities, and that brand awareness among these consumers is now equal to that of consumers in first-tier cities. • Brands should increase inventory of their best-sellers, provide more after- sales services and staff training. (CDFG has more than 190 outlets in China, Hong Kong and Taiwan and reported sales of $660m in 2011, an increase of 43.6% over 2010) Counter Intelligence Retail md Garry Stasiulevicuis on the Chinese traveler: • Some 72 new airports will be built in China by 2015 • Chinese travelers draw up a shopping list prior to travelling and will save up to shop before travelling • Request purchasing is key behavior among the Chinese • Some 40% of Chinese travelers enter duty-free stores • Some 30% of those entering a duty-free store make a purchase, but 30% say they will never make a purchase • One third of Chinese shoppers go to duty-free stores to browse or kill time, 25% look for a bargain, and 20% go to buy a specific item • Chinese travelers’ average spend is $170, versus a global average of $100 • Chinese business travelers’ average duty-free spend is $155, those on organized leisure trips spend $210 and solo leisure travelers spend $180 • In beauty, business travelers spend an average of $210, those on organized trips spend $245 and those traveling for leisure, but not in groups spend $225 • In the beauty category, 30% plan to buy a specific beauty item • In beauty, the conversion rate is 40% • Some 55% of shoppers who buy beauty say they purchase for a gift and 40% buy to stock up their beauty supplies • In beauty, of those who planned to buy but did not make a purchase, 50% say it was because items were too expensive and 50% were not inspired CAPA coo Derek Sadubin revealed that: • The development of high-speed rail in China will force airlines to expand into other markets either domestically in the country or in South East Asia. Sadubin described high-speed rail in China as a “retail free zone”, and said there is an opportunity to develop sales in rail stations. • Middle East carriers routes to China are growing rapidly. • Much of the growth in China will be driven by expansion of low-cost carriers (LCCs) www.bwconfidential.com - June 14-27, 2012 #56 - Page 14
Show review CONFIDENTIAL TFWA Asia Pacific n n n Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums continues to invest heavily in media and counters in China and will launch a TV ad campaign in the country for its Attimo L’Eau Florale fragrance this month. “This campaign will target 150 million consumers in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou. Our TV advertising in China generates an immediate boost in sales. We have a three-year plan for TV in the country,” says Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums ceo Luciano Bertinelli. The company will also launch a TV campaign for its Signorina fragrance in China in 2013. The fragrance has launched in Europe, Russia and the Middle East and based on these results the company has raised its targets for the scent in China. Ferragamo is also opening more in stores in China and is in expanding in second-tier cities there. China is now its third-largest market and is tipped to become its second most important country in the near future. French company Interparfums is to open a 50-60m 2 beauty space in the new Burberry fashion store due to open in Hong Kong in July. This will be the brand’s second beauty space to open in a Burberry store–its first was a make-up counter in the brand’s boutique in Taipei, Taiwan, which opened two months ago. Interparfums Asia Pacific md Renaud Boisson says the launch of Burberry make-up has enhanced the brand’s visibility and expanded its space in-store in Asia and especially in China, where the retail real estate for fragrance is being increasingly impinged upon by new skincare and cosmetics brands entering the country. Interparfums says Burberry is the third- ranked fragrance brand in China and does €30m sales at retail there. The company also has big expectations for its Montblanc fragrance franchise in China, for which it is expanding distribution. Interparfums does €50m in sales for all its brands in China. Swiss brand La Prairie showcased three new products in its Advanced Marine Biotechnology line, which are positioned as an affordable, eco-luxury collection aimed at younger consumers. The new line-up for men and women and due to launch this summer comprises a cleanser retailing at €52, a moisturizer (€110) and an eye gel (€84). La Prairie revealed that Asia has overtaken Europe as its biggest region in travel retail. “Growth is coming from Asia and driven by the Chinese with Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, Thailand and Korea all going very strong,” says La Prairie business development manager travel retail worldwide Katharina Walther. From 2013 the brand will put more focus on duo packs to cater to Chinese travelers’ taste for sets and coffrets. French company Millenium Fragrance, known for its children’s fragrances, officially presented its new brand Kokeshi (pictured). The brand takes its inspiration from Japanese dolls and comprises five fragrances: three for girls, two for boys and a unisex item. The scents come in doll- shaped bottles, with each design representing a different character. The company says that the range has a “cuteness factor”, which will allow it to expand business to target pre-teens and adolescents. The 50ml EdTs will retail at €29. Italian company Selectiva is rolling out its Pink Sugar Sparks fragrance (pictured) in Asia. In the region, the company will move into Taiwan in June 2013 and has begun the product registration process to launch in China; last year the brand also launched in Indonesia. Export represents 40% of Selectiva’s sales and the company is aiming for a 50:50 split www.bwconfidential.com - June 14-27, 2012 #56 - Page 15
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