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the explorers journal - The Explorers Club

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Baumé (1728–1804). It is simple science, but it can<br />

help us make new and better foods. If we are able to<br />

understand why a certain food is tasty and pleasurable,<br />

we can describe its preparation scientifically."<br />

Molecular gastronomy as it is practiced in some of<br />

<strong>the</strong> foremost kitchens in <strong>the</strong> world—at Ferran Adrià's El<br />

Bulli in Spain, at Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in <strong>the</strong><br />

United Kingdom, and at Pierre Gagnaire's eponymous<br />

restaurant in France—has come to include many ingredients<br />

common in industrial food manufacturing but<br />

seldom seen in a professional kitchen: hydrocolloids,<br />

emulsifying agents, and a host of reactive ingredients.<br />

Among <strong>the</strong>se are calcium chloride (a firming agent<br />

for canned goods) and sodium alginate (a gum product<br />

made from seaweed often used in candy making).<br />

Toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y form a stable gel that can be flavored in<br />

all manner of ways. Techniques in large part involve<br />

gellification, emulsification, and spherification—<strong>the</strong><br />

mixing of liquids with small amounts of alginate and<br />

dripping <strong>the</strong> concoction into a bath of calcium chloride.<br />

For <strong>the</strong> latter, <strong>the</strong> chemical reaction produces<br />

caviar-like pearls with liquid centers.<br />

Here are a couple of recipes that rely on some of<br />

<strong>the</strong>se techniques and elements so that you get <strong>the</strong> idea.<br />

<strong>The</strong> specialized ingredients <strong>the</strong>y contain may be obtained<br />

from: www.albertyferranadria.com/eng/texturas<br />

-info.html or www.koerner-co.com —AMHS<br />

Stefa n D. Cz a pa l ay 's<br />

Tom ato & Goat Cheese<br />

rollups<br />

ingredients:<br />

• 200 ML TOMATO JUICE<br />

• 550 ml distilled water<br />

• 2 grams sodium alginate*<br />

• 8 grams calcium lactate*<br />

• 100 grams soft goat cheese<br />

• HANDFUL FRESH BASIL LEAVES<br />

• GRAPESEED OIL, FOR FRYING basil leaves<br />

• PARMIGIANO REGGIANO, CHILLED IN THE FREEZER<br />

Utensils:<br />

• ~ 20 × 30 cm cookie sheet<br />

• spray bottle<br />

• pastry bag with cake-decorating nozzle or a small ziplock bag, one<br />

bottom corner cut to make 2 cm opening<br />

1. BLEND TOMATO JUICE, 50 ML DISTILLED WATER, AND SODIUM ALGINATE<br />

AND ALLOW TO REST FOR A few OF HOURS FOR AIR TO DISSIPATE.<br />

2. MIX 500 ML WATER AND CALCIUM LACTATE toge<strong>the</strong>r AND PUT IN A<br />

SPRAY BOTTLE. SPRAY COOKIE SHEET WITH CALCIUM SOLUTION.<br />

3. POUR TOMATO MIXTURE ONTO COOKIE SHEET IN A THIN LAYER. SPRITz<br />

tomato mixture WITH MORE CALCIUM SOLUTION. ALLOW TO REST FOR<br />

10 MINUTES. YOU NOW HAVE A FLEXIBLE TOMATO GELée.<br />

4. Put softened goat cheese in bag and pipe along one of <strong>the</strong> long<br />

edges of <strong>the</strong> gelée. Roll up. Garnish with fried basil leaves and<br />

shaved frozen parmigiano reggiano.<br />

Stefa n D. Cz a pa l ay 's<br />

Spik ed space candy<br />

ingredients:<br />

• 450 grams sucrose*<br />

• 50 grams isomalt*<br />

• 170 grams water<br />

• 200 grams of your favorite liquor, such as Grand Marinier<br />

• box of corn starch<br />

Utensils:<br />

• cookie sheet<br />

• non-reactive sauce pan<br />

• candy <strong>the</strong>mometer<br />

• two clean non-reactive dishes<br />

• dehydrator or oven set to lowest possible temperature<br />

1. place sucrose, isomalt, and water in sauce pan and bring to a<br />

rolling boil, 117ºc/242ºF, continuing to clean <strong>the</strong> sides down<br />

with a spoon.<br />

2. upon reaching 117º/242ºF, add liquor, kill heat, and cover with a<br />

clean dish cloth to trap all alcohol and eliminate evaporation.<br />

3. after a few minutes, pour mixture into one of <strong>the</strong> clean nonreactive<br />

dishes and <strong>the</strong>n into <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r to make sure <strong>the</strong><br />

mixture is well combined. DO not use a spoon to stir or <strong>the</strong><br />

sugar will crystalize.<br />

4. cover cookie sheet with loosely packed corn starch and pour<br />

mixture on top.<br />

5. place in dehydrator at 40ºc/104ºF for 45 minutes. If you do not<br />

have a dehydrator, use <strong>the</strong> lowest possible setting on your<br />

oven , heating it for five minutes, killing <strong>the</strong> heat, and placing<br />

cookie sheet inside for 2 hours. <strong>The</strong> result is small crunchy<br />

candy balls with liquid liquor inside.<br />

El Bulli's<br />

Fiz z y Lyor a spberry<br />

rocks<br />

ingredients:<br />

• 250 grams sugar<br />

• 100 grams water<br />

• 50 grams fizzy*<br />

• grated peel of 1 lime<br />

• 10 grams powdered Lyoraspberries*<br />

utensils:<br />

• candy <strong>the</strong>rmometer<br />

• nonreactive sauce pan<br />

• silpat-lined container<br />

1. Mix <strong>the</strong> water and <strong>the</strong> sugar in a saucepan and cook at<br />

130°C/266ºF until sugar dissolves.<br />

2. Remove from heat and let sit until it reaches 140°C/284ºF.<br />

3. Add Fizzy, powdered Lyoraspberries, and <strong>the</strong> grated lime peel<br />

and stir so that everything dissolves completely.<br />

4. Pour quickly into silpat-lined container and leave to cool & harden.<br />

5. Break <strong>the</strong> rocks as desired.<br />

* ingredients and a video showing preparation of <strong>the</strong> recipe above and more<br />

can be found at www.albertyferranadria.com/eng/videos-and-recipes.html

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