Issue 6 2010 - TLS - Victoria University

I prayed at the Little Church of Mary (Meryemana
in Turkish) and visited the Green Mosque and Grand
Mosque in Bursa. I walked the ruins of nine cities
at Troy, where Alexander the Great cut the famous
Gordion Knot. I saw the remains of the ancient
church where the Ecumenical Council decided in
43AD that Mary was the Mother of God. The Hittite
Museum, mausoleum of Ataturk and the, so-called,
most preserved Roman Theatre in the world, were
spectacular.
The weather varied. We swam in the Mediterranean
in the searing heat, trekked through snow and were
swamped by heavy rain, depending upon the region.
Turkey’s food and wine was interesting, and for the
most part, delicious. The people were delightful,
especially out in the rural areas not yet spoilt by
tourism. Women wore long skirts over cotton trousers,
head scarves, and worked alongside men on farms and
in orchards. We were welcomed with genuinely warm
smiles at each village.
We frequently stopped at the roadside where there were stalls selling lush ripe apricots, juicy figs,
honey, and a bountiful selection of nuts and pulses. Often, an elderly woman would squeeze fresh
orange juice by hand while you waited. It was sobering to realise these stalls and mobile grocers were
Australia’s equivalent of a shopping centre.
We arrived at Canakkale and crossed the Dardanelle Straits by ferry. Upon landing on the shores of
Anzac Cove, we visited the emotive Lone Pine Cemetery. We spent a day walking around the graves,
identifying headstones and reflecting where our relatives had made the ultimate sacrifice. Turkey’s
Government and its people have enormous respect for the Anzacs and the memorial erected at the
top of the hill. The memorial was simply perfect and beautifully inscribed. It stood just above the
remarkably small fox-holes and bunkers.
At midnight, we joined 6,000 other pilgrims on wooden bleachers to wait for the dawn service. The
number of people able to attend was strictly controlled due to the small area available. The Australian
Government managed the event efficiently, issuing passes to visitors, coordinating parking, caring for
returned servicemen, and provided everyone with food and water. During the long and cold wait, the
wind constantly blew, while entertainment was provided. An army band played, big-screen movies
were shown, the ceremony was rehearsed, and interviews conducted with dignitaries.
As the first light of dawn crept into the dark skies, an eerie silence enveloped everyone. We watched
in awe as floodlights were beamed onto the water; everyone gasped at the shimmering, silvery strip of
light. National flags were lowered, anthems played and everyone was in tears. I had one of the most
emotional experiences of my life.
I wondered how this foolishness could have occurred.
The sky turned pink, wreaths were laid, prayers offered, and hymns rung out. The respectful gathering,
concluded with a joyous rendition of patriotic songs.
At the same time I texted my family in Australia who would have been watching the Dawn Service on
television. I was very emotional.
After the service, we enjoyed a picnic breakfast dockside while waiting for the ferry to return us to
Canakkale. There was much of Istanbul still to discover.
Sandra Lewin hopes to study Creative Writing.
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