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4255-3 Buck March 2011 - The Community of Bucklebury WIKI

4255-3 Buck March 2011 - The Community of Bucklebury WIKI

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are most vulnerable – on the principle<br />

that to save a couple <strong>of</strong> branches and<br />

have fruit on is better than losing the lot.<br />

Seed sowing at this time <strong>of</strong> year can<br />

be very hit or miss. <strong>The</strong> essential thing<br />

is to make certain that the soil is warm<br />

and not too wet. It needs to be friable<br />

and easily ‘moved’ by your rake. If you<br />

have a garden frame you should have<br />

no problem in getting seedlings going,<br />

but if you are trying to get some early<br />

‘roots’ (parsnips and carrots) to germinate,<br />

try to cover the ground before you<br />

sow the seeds either with a cloche or<br />

black plastic (though I have found that<br />

mice seem to enjoy running around<br />

under the plastic!).<br />

I was reading the other day that one<br />

<strong>of</strong> the commonest failures <strong>of</strong> seeds to<br />

germinate is sowing them too deep;<br />

while they may make the initial effort to<br />

germinate the shoots run out <strong>of</strong> energy<br />

before they reach the surface. Read the<br />

guide on the packet; if it says sow to ? <strong>of</strong><br />

an inch deep it means just cover the<br />

seeds. I also read that the ground<br />

should not be too wet; while the seed<br />

does need moisture to germinate, if the<br />

ground is saturated there is no air and a<br />

living thing needs air to breath.<br />

I am reminded that with the warmer<br />

weather (we hope) weeds seem to be<br />

the first things to get going; give your<br />

self a task to visit a different bit <strong>of</strong> the<br />

garden each day and remove the first<br />

signs <strong>of</strong> weed growth – if you don’t they<br />

will be the first into flower and the first to<br />

go to seed making it even harder to get<br />

on top <strong>of</strong> your garden.<br />

As the daffodils start to go over, feed<br />

them with a foliar feed or sprinkle some<br />

Growmore around the base <strong>of</strong> the leaves<br />

as this will put goodness back into the<br />

bulb with the added advantage making<br />

the leaves die back more quickly.<br />

If the weather is warm, <strong>March</strong> is the<br />

right time to plant shallots; don’t push<br />

them into soil as you may damage the<br />

growing ‘plate’ out <strong>of</strong> which the roots<br />

emerge, just use a trowel and plant them<br />

in good soil so that the top <strong>of</strong> the shallot<br />

is just poking through the surface and<br />

cover with wire netting or something<br />

similar as the blackbirds will otherwise<br />

remove them thinking they are worms.<br />

Back to sowing seeds – most <strong>of</strong> us<br />

are impatient gardeners and we want<br />

instant results; remember that it takes<br />

weeks, not days, from sowing the seed<br />

to harvest – for instance it will take at<br />

least eight weeks (two months!) to harvest<br />

a lettuce; so sow and grow your<br />

seeds to a set plan, use a diary and<br />

record when you sow and when you<br />

harvest – it will be an interesting guide<br />

for next year. John Tennant<br />

Temporary Post Office<br />

in All Saints’ Church<br />

As you may know, the Parish<br />

Council approached the churchwardens<br />

and myself to see if we would host<br />

8 MARCH 2010

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