Pricing organic cotton...

In this issue >>>
- Uganda’s organic cotton journey
- Meet an organic farmer
- Root Capital’s rural finance
- Latin America update from 3 countries
- India – new TRACENET system
- Special report from OBEPAB
- Focus on Tanzania’s value chain
- Grolink Training Course
Engage
Connecting organic cotton farming communities
Organic Exchange Monthly Farm Bulletin Issue 6, December 2010
Welcome back. Hard to believe this is
the sixth issue of ‘Engage’! We hope you
are enjoying your monthly bulletin as much
as we are enjoying preparing it for you.
With each new issue we are seeing more
and more people want to be part of the
Engage community and coming forward
with their story.
This month we return to our regional
updates. We also have a special report from
Root Capital; about a financing model that
might hold a key to building better value
chains and greater stability through
financial incentives.
Our focus this month is Africa: starting with
LaRhea Pepper and Ashley Currin’s visit to
Uganda. We take a closer look at how
Tanzania can take us from farm-to-fashion
all before leaving the country! OBEPAB’s Dr
Davo Simplice brings us a sobering account
of how cotton pesticides are contaminating
local food in Benin, leading to sickness and
even death. More needs to be done to
prevent these tragedies occurring.
This month we hear from Suzanne Elise
Placide Tama, an organic cotton farmer
from Benin and the Coordinator of the local
Association of Strong and Active Women.
‘Meeting’ Lydie N’tcha (last month) and Ms
Tama now has been a highlight for me, and
brings home the role leaders, such as these
two women, play in their communities.
I know we will continue to meet progressive
people in the new year through our growing
‘Engage’ community and we at Textile
Exchange look forward to hearing about
your experiences as organic producers and
environmental stewards!
Pricing organic cotton...
Although organic agriculture offers many advantages to people and planet, the
price advantage is the most pressing factor for organic farmers. As you know, the
price of organic is linked to the price of conventional cotton sold on the
commodity market. The organic ‘premium’ (and other benefits sometime built-in
to contracts) makes producing cotton organically, and certifying the product, a
good financial investment.
However, these are extraordinary times, conventional cotton stocks are down and
the commodity price has shot up. This should be a good thing for growers And
indeed, one may argue it is! It’s a seller’s market right now.
But what has been brought to our attention is the potentially damaging impact this
situation is having on the organic cotton sector. Farmers are seeing their carefully
tended organic harvest end up in conventional supply chains. Organic cotton
procurers are struggling to meet their usual premium commitments (which don’t
make sense anymore) and on top of this the lag time for organic buyers to respond
to the market is adding a further complication.
If organic cotton is to be secure in a stable, appropriate value chain we need to step
back from the commodity price rollercoaster and establish working partnerships
which deliver win-win situations for all. We invite organic cotton players to join us
in finding solutions to do organic business differently... to do business better!
Best wishes and happy holidays,
Liesl Truscott, Director, Farm Engagement
bioRe ® /Böthling

Feature >>> Organic cotton in Uganda – helping rebuild lives
In the farm engagement program we strive to be a bridge between farmers groups and the larger
textile industry, Feature and recognize >>> the importance in the sharing stories from our visits with farm
projects. In September of this year, Textile Exchange’s Senior Director LaRhea Pepper, and Ashley
Currin had the opportunity to visit Uganda and see the difference that organic cotton makes in
the life of East African farmers. Here Ashley shares her experiences and insight...
Ashley Currin, Value Chain Specialist
We drove 4 1/2 hours Northwest of Kampala with the rain pouring down, turning the roads into a reddish river. Children walk
barefoot along the side, laughing and playing in their soaking school uniforms.
Approaching the town of Lira, the signs of NGO’s line the road, and I am struck by how many international aid groups have a
presence here. It should be no surprise, considering the recent history of the region. For the last two decades, civil war in the
area has led to the displacement of more than 2,000,000 Ugandans from their homes. The children in the area have grown
up in IDP war camps and now have the opportunity for a different life.
After the immediate needs of medicine, food, water and
shelter are met, there remains a complex dilemma
about the best way empower sustainable development
to a situation increasingly dependent on donor funding.
For the projects the question was: how to bring
economic activity into the area
This district has the largest concentration of land under
organic cultivation in the country. The surrounding
region has the lowest use of agrichemicals in all of
Africa, partly because of natural elements that manage
pests. In Gulu district, Cotton Conservation Initiative
with Invisible Children designed their program to work
with small producers to become economically viable
organic cotton farmers and self- sufficient after 3 years
time.
Above: Farmers for the Cotton Conservation Initiative/Invisible Children
Below: Women’s Farming association, Lango and North Bukuti project
During our visit with the projects, it became clear that
the organic farming services supplement traditional aid
by providing long-term solutions to the community.
Near the town of Lira, the Lango and North Bukuti
project introduced us to a women’s farming association.
We listened to women explain that they are now able to
pay school fees for their children because they receive a
fair price for their organic cotton. Others told of how
they had more to feed their family then their
conventional neighbours because of rotation crops.
We heard additional farmers who hoped to join the organic projects after seeing the training, farm tools and decent return that
was provided. A fundamental part of the organic model is the extension and support services that are offered, benefits absent
in conventional practices. Demonstration plots are vital to show techniques for others to replicate on their land. These ‘farm
field schools’ include information from tilling the soil, plowing, preparing the land, planting, intercropping, and further
assistance through to harvest. John Tembo, the project manager of CCI explains, “Don’t bury the seed, we bury a body but plant
a seed” reminding us that the planting of seeds represents a vision for hope and investment in the future.
The trip showed me that organic farming for many in Uganda symbolizes the resilience of a community, and act a means to rebuild
their lives.

Feature >>> Nice to meet you!
My name is... Suzanne Elise Placide Tama
I am... the Coordinator of the local NGO AFVA (Association des Femmes Vaillantes et
Actives - Association of the Strong and Active Women). Tel: + 00229 90 66 09 71/93 49
93 49: e-mail: tamsuzi@yahoo.fr
I live...
in Banikoara, in the district of Banikoara, department of Alibori, in Benin.
I have been involved in organic cotton production since ... Since 2008, through the
NGO AFVA, which I created, I have been involved full time in the development of organic
production.
I got started in organic cotton because... While I was working as a coordinator for a local NGO supporting development I
realised that women producers did not have good access to crop inputs for cotton growing, except through their husbands. In
addition, even if they do have access to the crop inputs they are still tied by the joint guarantee, as they are members of the
village association. Furthermore, beyond the fact that they are not landowners, the land they are cultivating has a very poor
fertility because of intensive farming.
What actions have you undertaken to promote organic production in your area From 2002 to 2007, I was elected as a
Councillor in the local authority. Then in 2005, I created AFVA whose purpose is to promote the development of women in
their chosen professional activity in the region of Alibori and in Benin as a whole. This allows women to overcome their social
discrimination, which has repercussions on their income and their wellbeing. While searching for new solutions, which could
improve women producers’ quality of life, I was informed of the existence of an agricultural method caring for the
environment: organic agriculture. I then contacted Helvetas in Benin to get more information, as they have a program for
managing the natural resources. In 2008, when Alafia, the project for organic and fair-trade cotton was launched in the area
around the natural reserve of Pendjari and they organised their planning workshop, I was invited by the associated directors
of Helvetas to take part. Under their guidance, I made contact with the Regional Technical Advisor of Helvetas to prepare the
next step. Once back in Banikoara, I presented the project to the women we were supporting and they immediately adopted
it. The women engaged in organic production are mainly from the Peul tribe. This tribe is largely involved in cattle farming. In
February 2008, we organised an exchange visit, sponsored by Helvetas, in Fada N’gouma in Burkina Faso. As a result of this
visit 48 producers (30 women, mainly from the Peul tribe and 18 men) decided to get involved in organic cotton production.
The total surface they were cultivating was almost 10 hectares. The results they obtained were very encouraging and
generated a lot of interest in the local population. Because of this in 2009, three other communities, in the area where the
NGO Potal Men acts, joined the campaign. The communities are Kerou, Kouande and Pehunco in the department of Atocora.
The project then grew to 450 producers growing on 62 hectares. In 2010, the project has 669 producers (with nearly 40% of
women and men producers from the Peul tribe) and a growing area of 197 hectares. Furthermore, in the Alibori region two
new communities are currently joining the project, the communities of Segbana and Gogounou. So far, Ecocert International
easily certifies the organic cotton we produce, thanks to the caring help of Helvetas.
Some of the challenges we face... There are numerous challenges, but the major ones are:
1. The consolidations of the acquired skills after the technical and financial partners have retired.
2. The purchase of cottonseeds at the beginning of each season.
3. The consideration of climate change on our production.
4. The recognition of the organic cotton production by the National council of cotton producers.
5. The subsidising of the production activity while waiting for payment from the Centrale de Sécurisation des Payments
et de Recouvrement (CSPR).
6. Easier access to land ownership for women.
7. Local transformation development.
What I would like to share with other farmers is... Women have to believe in themselves and endeavour to act in a way that
would allow them to be part of the decision-making authorities.
Written by Lazare YOMBI, Conseiller Technique Régional Programmes coton biologique et equitable,
Helvetas, Burkina Faso

Jesse Last, Lending & Strategy
Associate at Root Capital, tells
us how their financing model
can help build closer value chain
business relationships with
longer-term outlooks...
Figure 1. Rural Missing Middle
Spotlight >> Root Capital – rural finance
Root Capital is a nonprofit social investment fund that provides capital
and financial training to small and growing businesses in rural areas of
Africa and Latin America. We work to bridge the gap between
microfinance and corporate banking for farmer and artisan associations
and private enterprises that source from small-scale producers. By
extending capital, delivering financial training and strengthening market
connections, Root Capital reaches remote populations that traditional
banks have long overlooked – the so-called “Rural Missing Middle” (see
Figure 1.).
Our principal loan product is short-term trade credit, for which we use
forward purchase contracts as the loan guarantee (Figure 2.) Root
Capital will finance up to 60% of the value of the purchase order, with a
credit term of between 4 and 12 months. Loan sizes ranges from
$25,000 to $2 million and our trade credit loans are used by producer
associations and private enterprises to cover working capital needs
associated with fulfilling purchase orders in dollars, pounds and Euros.
We also offer longer term loans for investment in equipment and
infrastructure and to expand production.
Figure 2. Root Capital Factoring Model
Founding: 1999
Root Capital Overview
Mission: To pioneer finance for grassroots businesses
that build sustainable livelihoods and transform rural
communities in poor, environmentally vulnerable places.
Disbursements: $200 million
Clients: 282
Loans: 777
Repayment: 99%
Headquarters: Cambridge, MA
Associated Offices: Nairobi, Kenya; San Jose, Costa
Rica, Lima, Perú; Managua, Nicaragua; Quetzaltenango,
Guatemala; Chiapas, México
Countries of Operation: 30 (15 in Africa including Mali,
Burkina Faso, Uganda and Tanzania; 15 in Latin America
including Peru, Colombia, and Nicaragua)
Root Capital Investment Officer Richard Tugume with a Ugandan cotton grower
Since our founding in 1999, Root Capital has applied this model in
several industries, including coffee, cocoa, fresh produce, and cotton.
We have disbursed more than $200 million via 777 loans to 282 clients,
and we have a 99 percent repayment rate.
One of the key characteristics of Root Capital’s model is the
involvement of our clients’ buyers. We have developed close
relationships with a number of leading corporations that source
globally, including Starbucks, Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, General
Mills and The Body Shop. Through partnership with Root Capital, these
companies may benefit from more reliable supply chains, increased
producer volumes, and the removal of producer financing from the
company’s balance sheet.
As Root Capital expands lending to organic cotton growers, we look
forward to developing similarly strong relationships with leading players
in the cotton value chain.
For more information about Root Capital, please contact Jesse Last at
finance@rootcapital.org.

Feature >>> Tracenet – A traceability
system for India’s organic production
Regional focus >>>
India
By Prabha Nagarajan, Regional Director India, Textile Exchange
The increased awareness in the export markets and a growing need for traceability
and accountability of products, saw APEDA, the agency set up by the Ministry of
Commerce to Christina promote Boecker, and regulate Sekem the export of agricultural and processed foods
from India launch successful traceability programs for grapes ( Grapenet) and
pomegranates ( Anarnet ) in the mid 2000s. This has now been followed by
TRACENET, a pan India, web based system to enable regulation, compliance and
monitoring of all organic production. The system was launched in May 2010 and
became mandatory in June 2010. Prior to this APEDA (the Agricultural and
Processed Food Products Export Development Authority) conducted more than 29
training programs for stakeholders all over India. Trials have also been conducted
and feedback sought before the formal launch.
All the accredited certifiers have been co opted by APEDA to register all the
operators who are engaged in organic agricultural production. These operators are
assigned a unique 12 digit Registration number, and issued a Registration
Certificate, after obtaining all the details such as name, address, area, scope of
activity and number of farmers etc. It is well worth remembering that India has been
the first country to introduce the concept of group farming, and that several farmers
in one group get managed by one Internal Control System (ICS). It thus becomes the
responsibility of the ICS to ensure data entry of all the farmers in the group for
Tracenet. If this is not possible then the Certifying body would take on this
responsibility.
The ICS manager inspects individual famers and forwards the reports to the
Certification Body for verification and issuing of Scope Certificate. All Scope
certificates and Transaction Certificates carry barcodes with unique ID for the
exporters and for the Consignment.
Key advantages of Tracenet are:
A user friendly software that
can be used 24/7.
Reduction in duplication of
data capture.
Instant reference to previous
steps in supply chain is
enabled.
Built-in checks and balances
that ensure compliance.
Documents can be issued only
by going through the
software.
Enables APEDA to trace
details of a consignment right
down to the plot level.
Photo courtesy: bioRe, India
Quite simply traceability would mean the ability to track back or trace the history of
a product through recorded means, from farm to final product. APEDA lists the key
principles of traceability as follows:
Identify products, production batches or logistic units.
Record all successive links in the supply chain between production batches and
logistic units.
Record traceabilty data throughout the supply chain.
Provide the downstream partner with all the information required to ensure
product traceability.
Providing for the above, the features of Tracenet ensure that all key stakeholders
from farmers, groups, ICS Certification Bodies and APEDA are well integrated.
APEDA has also held review meetings in various locations in India with stakeholders
to identify and iron out teething issues.
The Tracenet thus offers system based traceability, and is expected to ensure a
superior control of the production and certification system. The big challenge of
dealing with a complex supply chain can be better dealt with. Indeed Tracenet can
be seen as a bold and strategic initiative to put India firmly on the map for
agricultural exports, especially organic produce such as cotton.
Overpage: Find out how Tracenet works.
“Quite simply traceability would
mean the ability to track back or
trace the history of a product
through recorded means, from
farm to final product.”

HOW TRACENET WORKS
India
Continued...
For a Certifying Body:
Certifying Bodies are assigned user names and passwords by APEDA.
Using this to login Certifying Bodies can register an operator or group and
issue a letter of registration to them.
For an ICS Operator:
Once the Letter of Registration is issued the ICS group will receive a
password to enable them access the system.
They will then enter all their farm and farmer details including name,
address, and village, District, State and Taluk.
Unique farmer and Farm Registration no is also generated by the system.
Product details such as description, variety, organic status, crop type
(whether main or inter crop), season, crop area and estimated quantity,
harvest nature (e.g. multiple harvest) etc are entered.
If the operator is a processor then ICS will enter details of processing units,
such as name, location capacity, license no, validity, and its products.
If the operator is a trader , ICS will have to add trader product details as well
All product details successfully submitted will be saved.
A successful entry will enable them send their internal inspection reports
and details to the CB for review and generation of scope certificate.
Internal Inspections:
After data is entered, ICS will enter inspection report of farmers, including
non conformities and observation entries.
“TraceNet is an internet based
electronic service offered to
stakeholders for facilitating
process certification for export
of organic products from India
which comply with the NPOP or
NOP standards. TraceNet
collects, stores and reports -
forward and backward traces
and quality assurance data
entered by the operators /
producer groups and
certification bodies within the
organic supply chain in India.”
APEDA,
Ministry of Commerce and Industry,
Government of India
Certifying Bodies:
Certifying Bodies verifies the ICS details .If there is any major non conformity it has
to be closed before issuance of Scope Certificate. Inspections for non conformities
will be listed; the system generates a unique ID code for the inspection.
Scope Certificate is generated through the system, with a unique Scope Certification
number. Once scope has been given, actual yield is updated and creation of lot is
done. Following this the application for Transaction Certificate (TC) is done and a
unique TC application number gets issued by system.
ICS can apply for domestic or Export TC. Packing details are also asked for. Certifying
Bodies reviews application, and can then issue a TC.
Follow organic cotton from field... to fashion...
For more information, please contact Prabha Nagarajan, Regional Director, India
prabhanagu@gmail.com

Regional focus >>>
Latin America
Above: Organic cotton farmer from Ceará, Brazil
COMAMNUVI factory in Managua, Nicaragua
Update>>> from Latin America
BRAZIL - The drought of 2009-10 and impact on organic cotton production
Organic cotton production in Brazil suffered a hard blow due to a drastic drought
affecting cotton fields in the northeast. The dry season has been very long, and
rain has not been consistent, leading to production losses of 90%. This
phenomenon also affected other crops, with significant impacts on local food.
This has led to some textile companies importing organic cotton fiber or yarn.
Nevertheless, efforts to strengthen and link the production systems, textile
markets, rural development and family farming are ongoing. ICCO’s (Dutch NGO)
support of the ‘agroecology cotton production platform’ in the Northeast and
the participation of NGOs, governmental projects such as PDHC (Don Helder
Camara Project), EMBRAPA and private sector companies are making a major
effort to improve the situation.
Source: Pedro Jorge (ESPLAR) pedrojorge@esplar.org.br and
Thomas Favennec (TudoBom) thomas@tudobom.fr
NICARAGUA - Projections for 2011’s organic cotton production
The 2010-2011 crop season began in mid-November and it is estimated that
more than 5,000 qq of seed cotton (not including seed production area) will be
harvested. COPROEXNIC expects to produce about 2,000 quintals of organic
cotton fiber for approximately 450 bales of 4.2 quintals each. All this fiber has
virtually been sold. Moreover, the spinning factory “Génesis” is not yet in
operation, apparently due to the delayed delivery of equipment. Raúl Machín
from COPROEXNIC comments “an advancement of USD 150,000 (from a total of
USD 230.000) has already been given to the Coker Company from the USA, to
purchase a mill from Venezuela. Women from cooperative “Génesis” have been
waiting for a year for equipment delivery”. Meanwhile, COMAMNUVI women are
working in the manufacturing and marketing of organic clothing. A delegation is
currently in Europe getting to know their customers. Costs of Clothing can be
reduced if “Génesis”, cooperative can operate its new spinner. Hopefully by
2011 this situation will have improved and yield greater benefits to the women
of Nicaragua.
Source: Raul Machín (COPROEXNIC) coproexnic@gmail.com
PERU - Test of Peruvian Pima cotton in Pisco Valley
Above: Genesis factory in Managua, Nicaragua
Above: Javier Otoya, New Expo, Peru
Peruvian pima cotton is grown in northern Peru, specifically in the Piura region.
However, just over 3 hours south of Lima, planting tests will be carried out using
the organic system. The promoter of this initiative is New Expo Company who
has a small farm of 12 ha with organic cotton in the Pisco valley. The interesting
thing about these initiatives is the need for very fine varieties and organic fibres.
Pisco Valley is deficient in water; therefore the management is done with
irrigation technology, i.e. with a proper water management program in smallscale
farms. New Expo specializes in clothes and accessories for children and
adults, with an important organic line.
Source: Javier Otoya (New Expo), javierotoya@new-expo.com
By: Alfonso Lizárraga Travaglini, Regional Director Textile Exchange in Latin
America
NEW>>> Organic Guide now in Spanish!
The Spanish version of the Organic Business Guide is now available from the
OFTCC (Organic & Fairtrade Competency Centre) website. The guide
provides practical know-how for planning, managing and expanding organic
and fairtrade initiatives with smallholders. Written by Bo van Elzakker at the
Agro Eco Louis Bolk Institute and Frank Eyhorn; OFTCC. Translated into
Spanish by Doraliz Aranda (Textile Exchange).
Report: http://www.organicandfair.org/oftcc/Publications/Tools-and-
Guides/Organic-Business-Guide-publications.php

Special report from OBEPAB >>> Cotton pesticides and
human health: intoxications continue to occur in Benin
Following repeated media reports of health injuries and deaths in the region of
Parakou and Tchaorou (Northern Benin) involving cotton pesticides; OBEPAB (the
Benin Organisation for the Promotion of Organic Agriculture) has made an inquiry to
understand the circumstances more deeply. The method applied for this investigation
was twofold. First, some interviews were made with health centers, security services
and regional agricultural extension services. The second step was to talk with some
victims and their families.
Regional focus >>>
Africa
As results, a total number of 161 persons were poisoned among which 19 died, all
occurring from the 1st of July to 6th of August 2010 in the same location of Parakou
and Tchaorou. According to the health centers, the victims were aged from 3 to 60
years old. The symptoms observed were consistent; vomiting, convulsive crises,
abdominal pains, diarrhea, headaches, loss of consciousness and coma. Most victims
reported that their symptoms started after consumption of food containing cereals
(maize, sorghum and millet) and dried cassava and yam and doctors have
demonstrated contamination of the foods with cotton pesticides as the most
plausible cause of this poisoning. Surprisingly, the region of Parakou and Tchaorou is
not a big cotton production area.
Traders of cereals and dried tubers are identified as presumably responsible. These
agricultural products are stored and come into the local market when fresh food is
scarce. They are highly susceptible to attack by post harvest insects. Normal food
storage pesticides are not effective and hardly ever supplied to traders. But traders
can easily buy cotton pesticides from farmers to apply on cereals and dried tuber
stocks to prevent them being damaged. During good years when the rainy season is
normal, the new harvest of cereals and yam comes to the marketplace in the months
of August and September. In order to avoid consequences of price drops and to be
prepared to buy and stock products of the new harvest, traders intend to quickly
destock their stores of previous season’s products (which are kept as insurance in
case of rain shortage and bad harvest during the following season) before the new
harvest come to the market. Such behaviour is becoming common and well known by
some traders who prefer to buy (if they are obliged to) cereals and dried tubers
containing post harvest insects instead of the ‘clean’ ones.
It has become urgent that authorities take action to protect the public from such
profit-driven behaviours that continue to cause damage. After the tragedy of July and
August 2010, local authorities in Parakou organized some ‘sensitization’ talks on the
local radio involving doctors, judges and other key resource people. This initiative is
encouraging. However, is it enough to stop such persistent behaviour There is a
need to go further by setting a clear protocol of keeping cereals and dried tubers and
a supply of recommended pesticides. Competent government services have to control
the cereals and dried tuber stocks and to locate responsibilities to prevent future
public health crises such as those in Parakou and Tchaorou.
Above: Dr. Davo Simplice,
OBEPAB, Benin
“It has become urgent that
authorities take actions to
protect the public...”
Above: Maize (for food) stored alongside
harmful pesticides
“Make sure you know where your
food comes from and never eat
or feed your family food that has
been treated with pesticides
whilst in storage...” Silvere
Tovignan, Textile Exchange
The Benin Organisation for the Promotion of Organic Agriculture (OBEPAB) is an
NGO created in 1996 to promote organic agriculture as an alternative for producers.
OBEPAB work for sustainable development with emphasis on the development of
local resources and develop sustainable agricultural production systems, preserving
the health of producers and consumers and safeguarding the environment.
Above: organically grown food is safe and
nutritious.

Spotlight >> Tanzania –
from raw cotton to finished garment
Coat of Arms: The shield stands upon the
representation of Mount Kilimanjaro. Elephant tusks
are supported by a man and a woman, with a clove
bush at the feet of the man and a cotton bush at the
feet of the woman indicating the theme of cooperation.
Tanzania produces organic cotton fibre but its manufacturing base is not well known.
The Tanzania Cotton Board (TCB) is proud to say the entire cotton-textile-apparel
value chain is present in one of Africa’s most politically stable countries. From raw
cotton to finished garments - companies such as bioRe, BioSustain, Sunflag
(Tanzania), MantisWorld and Remei are working together to make Tanzania a centre
for sustainable textiles.
The Tanzania Cotton Board is a statutory body that promotes growth of the
production/ processing / marketing of Tanzania cotton. The TCB has granted
concessions to two organic cotton producer groups (bioRe & BioSustain) that coordinate
the production of lint in Tanzania’s Meatu and Singida districts. Tanzania is
now one of the world’s larger producers of organic lint; and the largest in Africa.
The TCB’s Mark Bennett says “The TCB would like to expand the sales of Sunflag
Tanzania’s organic textiles & garments and see additional manufacturing investments
that would result in greater amounts of organic lint being transformed into higher
value-added textiles and apparel in the country. The TCB is now also piloting (as part of
its drive to establish cotton contract farming) Conservation Agriculture technologies –
hopefully this too will result in more sustainable cotton being grown.”
A flying tour through the value chain...
Remei set up bioRe (Meatu) to secure its supply of certified organic cotton fibre.
bioRe is now a separate company and Remei buys fibre from bioRe Tanzania Ltd.
Remei is the chain coordinator; its garments are sold in department stores and fashion
outlets in Switzerland, France, Germany and other western European countries. The
Remei/bioRe business model is based on organic farming, fair treatment of farmers
and textile workers, and genuine partnering among all actors in the cotton chain.
BioSustain provides farmers with support and technical assistance and pays an organic
premium for the cotton. Production volumes have steadily increased since the start
and are expected to further grow in coming years as BioSustain has acquired a cotton
ginnery and an oil mill and have signed a memorandum of understanding with three
district governments to promote organic farming.
Sunflag is a fully integrated textile mill (spin, weave/knit, process) and garment factory
located in Arusha (near Mount Kilimanjaro). Low-carbon energy sources power the
factory, and heat and water are recovered for reuse. Waste water is made safe
through their on-site Effluent Treatment Plant. Installed capacity allows up to 500,000
garments per month and main markets include the EU, USA, South Africa and the
regional African market. Sunflag holds Oeko Tex 100, is independently audited for
social compliance according to BSCI and is the only factory in East Africa to hold GOTS
with the entire production process certified and under one roof.
Mantis World acts as Sunflag Tanzania’s office in Europe and also has their own brand
of “blank” stock held in the UK ready to supply brands and corporate clients. They buy
nearly 1 million Tanzanian made garments per year; which supports thousands of
small scale farmers, textile workers and their families. Mantis World were the first
company to produce organic cotton garments from Tanzania and offer a completely
transparent and traceable supply chain from farm to garment wholesale. Mantis
World is on a path to further improve social compliance. The 5 year plan includes
getting SA8000 certification and reducing their carbon and water footprints.
Mark Bennett said, “Things are going well for Tanzania but there is room to increase
the overall volume of organic (and conservation) cotton grown in Tanzania. Tanzania
would welcome more textile (and apparel) manufacturing firms to partner with the
growers of organic cotton to beneficiate that cotton into higher value-added products
in Tanzania.”
To find out more about each organisation visit:
Tanzania Cotton Board: www.cotton.or.tz & mtungam@yahoo.com
bioRe Tanzania: www.remei.ch/en/biore-foundation/biore-tanzania-ltd/
BioSustain: www.biosustain.de
Sunflag (Tanzania): www.sunflag-tz.com and MantisWorld: www.mantisworld.com

Monthly...
• Discussion and debates
• Tips for better organic farming
• Our views on emerging issues
• Comparing notes with a fellow farmer
• A closer look at the market
• A day in the life of a retailer
• Your questions answered
GROLINK: Organic Sector Development Training 2011
Be part of the development of organic agriculture. This training week, for
people working in organic agriculture development, is managed by Grolink
in collaboration with OPPAZ and GOA. Grolink is an international
consultancy company with expertise in organic agriculture and experience
of international training programmes, as well as management of organic
projects worldwide.
When: 21st March – 1st April 2011
Where: In Service Training Trust, Lusaka, Zambia
Target group:
The target group are key persons who are seriously interested in developing
of organic projects or programmes, supporting structures or policies in the
region. Participants come from governmental institutions, exporters,
extension services or organic sector organisations.
Content:
• Organic Agriculture production
• Framework of organic agriculture
• Markets for organic products
• Standards, certification and regulation
• How to set up an organic project
The training will be conducted in English.
Farm Engagement Team
Contact Details
Doraliz Aranda, Business Development Manager
Doraliz@TextileExchange.org
Ashley Currin, Traceability Specialist
Acurrin@TextileExchange.org
Alfonso Lizarraga, Regional Director, Latin America
Alfonso@TextileExchange.org
Prabha Nagarajan, Regional Director, India
prabhanagu@gmail.com
Jose Santisteban, Research Manager
Jose@TextileExchange.org
Silvere Tovignan, Regional Director, Africa
tsilvere@yahoo.fr
Liesl Truscott, Farm Engagement Director
Liesl@TextileExchange.org
Please email Liesl with your...
General enquiries
Suggestions for this bulletin
Questions for the team to answer
Please visit our website:
www.TextileExchange.org
Costs:
The training fee is 2,100 USD per participant to be paid in advance. This
includes training material, accommodation in shared rooms and food.
Participants cover their own insurance and travel cost to and from the
venue. (No daily allowance).
Brochure and Application form can be downloaded from:
www.grolink.se – www.oppaz.org – www.istt.ac.zm
Important note: Please express interest as soon as possible; space is
limited and the application deadline is fast approaching.
Textile Exchange takes a global approach to developing markets. Our work focuses on building demand and supply simultaneously. We
focus on the entire value chain, from seed procurement through to retail. We provide models and tools for collaborative planning, problem
solving, product development, and point of purchase materials.
Through the work of Textile Exchange, and as a direct result of funding from our key partner ICCO, we now positively affect the lives of over
220,000 organic cotton farmers worldwide.