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Ancient Near Eastern Art: The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, v ...

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Clothing in the <strong>Near</strong> East was commonly<br />

made <strong>of</strong> goat's hair and sheep's wool. A<br />

form <strong>of</strong> dress frequently represented in<br />

Sumerian and Akkadian art is the calflength<br />

skirt covered with tufts <strong>of</strong> wool<br />

(see figs. 21, 70). Wrapped around the<br />

lower body and occasionally draped over<br />

one shoulder, this distinctive garment<br />

was worn throughouthe third millennium<br />

B.C. in Mesopotamia. In time, longer garments<br />

(see figs. 2, 69) made <strong>of</strong> a single<br />

piece <strong>of</strong> wool or linen fabric replaced the<br />

earlier skirt. <strong>The</strong> robes had fringed borders<br />

or several horizontal bands <strong>of</strong> fringes<br />

(see figs. 20, 27). Sleeved garments and<br />

shawls (see fig. 3, inside covers) <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Neo-Assyrian period (883-612 B.C.) retained<br />

this fringed border and were also<br />

enriched with woven and embroidered<br />

designs and metal appliques.<br />

On a relief from the Achaemenid palace<br />

at Persepolis (fig. 68), one figure is<br />

in Persian dress and wears a long fullsleeved<br />

tunic <strong>of</strong> a light textile. A second<br />

figure is in Median dress, a knee-length<br />

tunic and close-fitting trousers <strong>of</strong> thick<br />

wool or leather-clothing appropriate for<br />

a horseman. <strong>The</strong> folds <strong>of</strong> a similar tunic<br />

and trousers worn by the Sasanian king<br />

(see fig. 63) indicate that in this case the<br />

fabric is thin, perhaps silk. Impractical as<br />

this material was for hunting wear, it was<br />

represented to symbolize the luxuriousness<br />

<strong>of</strong> royal dress.<br />

Through the millennia, in the art <strong>of</strong> the<br />

<strong>Near</strong> East, a cap decorated with bull's<br />

horns (see figs. 20, 27) signified that the<br />

wearer was a god. Only rarely did human<br />

rulers claim divinity and adopt this<br />

headgear. A headdress worn by southern<br />

Mesopotamian rulers in the late third<br />

and early second millennia B.C. is a wool<br />

cap (see figs. 2, 69). Later in the second<br />

millennium B.C. and early in the first millennium<br />

B.C. a high, fezlike cap (see fig. 3)<br />

was worn in Mesopotamia by nobles and<br />

kings. Under the Achaemenid Persians a<br />

new crown with stepped crenellations<br />

made its appearance. This<br />

form, enriched by many<br />

elements such as crescent<br />

moons, sun rays, wings,<br />

and globes, became the<br />

royal crown <strong>of</strong> Sasanian<br />

70 ^^^^9<br />

kings (see fig. 5). P.O.H.<br />

69<br />

51

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