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#69: Hermès International
continued
of the company’s total revenues of €4.12
billion, which grew 9.7% year-on-year.
Perfumer Christine Nagel joined Hermès
to work alongside in-house nose Jean-
Claude Ellena. Key launches included Le
Bain Hermès, a range of luxury toiletries,
and Le Parfum de la maison, a line of
scented candles.
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ATLANTIC COAST
MEDIA GROUP
JERSEY CITY, N.J.
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$306.6 MILLION (EST.)
+5% V. ’13
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Christie Brinkley Authentic Skincare,
Hydroxatone, Miracle Skin Transformer,
Bellaplex, Luminique (skin care).
Keranique (hair care).
YEAR IN REVIEW: The company spent
the year codeveloping a skin-care line with
model Christie Brinkley, which had a soft
launch on HSN.com in late 2014. Called
Christie Brinkley Authentic Skincare, the
eight-item line launched on HSN March 5,
2015, then rolled out to Kohl’s. First-year
retail sales are expected to exceed $20
million. Keranique, a hair-care range for
women with thinning hair, launched at
Ulta in October, and is slated to roll out
to Nordstrom this year. In 2014, Miracle
Skin Transformer reformulated its Body
product. The company said its year-onyear
profit gained 35%.
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ALÈS GROUPE
PARIS
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$302.5 MILLION
€227.6 MILLION
+4.2% V. ’13
+
+
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Phyto, PhytoSpecific, Secret
Professionnel, Kydra, Ducastel (hair
care). Lierac (skin care). Caron
(fragrance).
YEAR IN REVIEW: Alès Groupe’s
growth accelerated in the second half of
2014 with revenues increasing 8.4%. For
the full year, skin-care sales grew 5.5% to
€128.1 million, boosted by Lierac’s launch
of the antiaging line Liftissime and international
growth. Hair-care sales, up 3.1%
to €90.5 million, benefitted from new oil
products. Fragrance sales dropped 3.1%
to €8.9 million, largely due to the transfer
of Caron’s distribution in the U.S. to an
external company. Sales in France rose
0.3% to €91.9 million, due to a morose
market climate and retailer de-stocking;
international revenues increased 7% to
€135.7 million.
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VOGUE
INTERNATIONAL
CLEARWATER, FLA.
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$300 MILLION (EST.)
+25% (EST.)
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
OGX Beauty (hair, bath and body care).
FX, Proganix (hair care).
YEAR IN REVIEW: In early 2014, Todd
Christopher, Vogue’s founder, attracted an
investment from private equity firm The
Carlyle Group. Christopher retained a 51%
share of the company that distributes
premium-priced hair-care lines and bath
and body products to the mass market.
OGX Beauty, which organizes collections
around ingredient stories such as Argan
Oil and Cherry Blossom, accounts for
the bulk of the company’s sales. The
introduction of new collections, including
Coconut Water and Sea Mineral Moisture,
expanded shelf space in existing mass retail
accounts, and the launch of Proganix
also helped fuel the double-digit sales
gain in 2014. As well as the U.S., Vogue’s
products are distributed in countries
including the U.K. and Australia.
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BURBERRY
LONDON
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$285.2 MILLION (EST.)
£173 MILLION (EST.)
+53.1% V. ’13 (EST.)
+
+
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Burberry (fragrance, makeup).
YEAR IN REVIEW: 2014 saw Christopher
Bailey take over as Burberry’s ceo,
in addition to his duties as chief creative
officer. He replaced Angela Ahrendts,
who went to Apple. March 2014 ended
Burberry’s first full year of having its
beauty business back in house. In 2014,
it opened new stores and launched scents
including the My Burberry fragrance. Its
first Asian Beauty Box store opened in
Seoul in December. In the six months
ended Sept. 30, 2014, Burberry reported
that beauty wholesale revenues rose 55%
year-on-year at constant exchange rates
and 47% at actual exchange rates, to
£74.7 million, as well as retail beauty sales
of £3.8 million. Burberry said it plans
to launch skin care as part of its bid to
become a top-10 luxury beauty company,
with chief operating officer John Smith
commenting that the firm is talking to a
“range of possible partners.” For the fiscal
year-ended March 2015, Burberry expects
its wholesale beauty revenues to grow by
25% at constant exchange rates.
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BURT’S BEES
DURHAM, N.C.
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$270 MILLION (EST.)
+12.5% V. ’13 (EST.)
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Burt’s Bees (skin, lip, hair, body, men’s
and baby care). Güd by Burt’s Bees
(fragrance, skin and hair care).
YEAR IN REVIEW: Burt’s Bees’ burgeoning
lip business was again its biggest
growth driver. Skin care also contributed
thanks to the new Brightening Face Care
range and facial wipes. Now available in
more than 50 countries, the U.S., Canada
and the U.K. remain the strongest markets
for the Clorox Co.–owned brand. Lip
Crayons lip color led the sales gains, with
additional boosts from flavored lip balms.
Burt’s Bees lip care made its television
debut last fall with 15- and 30-second
commercials airing in the U.S.
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CARTIER
PARIS
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$265.8 MILLION (EST.)
€200 MILLION (EST.)
+12% V. ’13 (EST.)
+
+
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
La Panthère de Cartier, Baiser Volé,
Déclaration, Déclaration d’un Soir, Eau
de Cartier, Pasha de Cartier, Must de
Cartier, Santos de Cartier, Délices de
Cartier, Roadster, Les Heures de Parfum
(fragrance).
YEAR IN REVIEW: Compagnie
Financière Richemont-owned Cartier’s
fragrance activity saw double-digit growth
in all of its markets in 2014, especially in
travel retail, where sales increased 26%
and accounted for 16% of overall sales.
France remained the leading market
with 14% of revenues, followed by Italy
(13%), the U.S. (12%) and the Middle
14: The Estée Lauder Cos.
signs a deal to purchase
indie fragrance brand
Le Labo, its first major
acquisition since
Smashbox in 2010.
15: Dove Hair
partners with
on-demand
beauty app
PRIV to deliver
products and
services right
to consumers’
doors in
Manhattan and
Los Angeles.
17: CEW
presents
LEONARD
LAUDER with
the Lifetime
Achievement
Award—the first
time a man has
received the
honor.
17: MAC introduces a
youth retail format store in
Orlando to attract Millennials
and Generation Z.
20: L’Oréal USA purchases
Carol’s Daughter, with plans
to build a multicultural
beauty division.
22: Harrods unveils SALON
DE PARFUMS, a gallery for
fine and rare fragrances—
some that fetch as much as
$228,000.
29: MAC Cosmetics names
uberprovocative MILEY
CYRUS as its 2015 Viva
Glam spokesperson.
2014
REVIEW
East (8%). The brand was boosted by
the March 2014 launch of La Panthère,
which industry sources estimated would
reach €60 million in first-year wholesale
revenues. Déclaration remained the bestselling
men’s scent globally, although
Pasha Edition Noire, launched in 2013,
superseded it in the Americas and the
Middle East.
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COLLISTAR
MILAN
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$265.8 MILLION
€200 MILLION
+2.6% V. ’13
+
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Collistar (makeup; skin, hair, body and
sun care; men’s skin care and fragrance;
aromatherapy).
YEAR IN REVIEW: While the domestic
market remained flat, Collistar boosted
its international presence, with Russia,
Germany and Poland among its most
strategic areas outside Italy. In 2014,
58% of its sales were at home and 42%
abroad. Collistar has remained Italy’s
top-selling brand in terms of volume for
12 consecutive years. The firm kicked off a
Ti Amo Italia (I love you, Italy) advertising
campaign and introduced a successful
range of Italy-themed cosmetics, including
a limited-edition makeup collection
with fashion designer Antonio Marras.
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STEINER LEISURE
NASSAU, THE BAHAMAS
2014 BEAUTY SALES:
$265.4 MILLION
+1.4% V. ’13
+
SUBSIDIARIES + MAIN BRANDS:
Elemis, La Therapie, Bliss, Laboratoire
Remède, Mandara Spa (skin care).
YEAR IN REVIEW: The Elemis and
Bliss brands drove Steiner Leisure’s
growth in 2014. Elemis saw strong gains
in the U.K., with sales spread across
stores, online and via QVC; Pro-Collagen
Marine Cream was its best-selling product.
Key launches included Pro-Collagen
Hydra-Gel Eye Masks and Pro-Collagen
Marine Cream Ultra-Rich. Elemis’ largest
markets were the U.K., the U.S. and Asia.
Product innovation boosted growth for
Bliss, with launches including FatGirlSlim
Arm Candy and Multi-‘face’-eted All-In-
One Anti-Aging Clay Mask. Bliss entered
China and saw growth in the Nordic
countries.
LAUDER PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO
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