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body-of-secrets-anatomy-of-the-ultra-secret-national-security-agency-2002

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decided to return for a visit, "my ears caught a faint sound coming from<strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ops building." Then he realized what he was hearing:"Several hundred rats rummaging through <strong>the</strong> piles <strong>of</strong> garbage."The powerful wave <strong>of</strong> Cold War fears that decades earlier had sweptlistening posts onto remote mountaintops and Arctic wastelands and intohidden valleys was now receding like a fast-falling tide.During deactivation ceremonies at Edzell, Scotland, near <strong>the</strong> elephantcage that had captured so many Soviet voices, <strong>the</strong> only sound was <strong>the</strong>piercing skirl <strong>of</strong> a lone bagpipe playing <strong>the</strong> haunting farewell "We're No'Awa' Tae Bide Awa'."At Key West, Florida, where reports had flashed to <strong>the</strong> White Houseduring <strong>the</strong> Cuban missile crisis, a bugler sounded "Taps" and an NSA<strong>of</strong>ficial watched <strong>the</strong> flag descend for <strong>the</strong> final time.In <strong>the</strong> Command Conference Room at Kamiseya, Japan, once <strong>the</strong>Navy's largest listening post, <strong>the</strong> commanding <strong>of</strong>ficer solemnly read froma classified message ordering <strong>the</strong> station's closure.At Skaggs Island, California; Karamürsel, Turkey; and dozens <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rlistening posts around <strong>the</strong> world, massive antennas were disassembledas quietly as <strong>the</strong>y had been built.Once a forbidden and frozen land populated exclusively byeavesdroppers, <strong>the</strong> Alaskan island <strong>of</strong> Adak was put up for sale on <strong>the</strong>Internet. Satellite dishes, power plant, <strong>the</strong> Adak museum, schools, even<strong>the</strong> church were to go to <strong>the</strong> highest bidder.After seventy-nine years <strong>of</strong> operation, <strong>the</strong> last watch was stood at <strong>the</strong>naval listening post at Imperial Beach, California, near San Diego.Many listening posts not closed were virtually abandoned and turnedinto remotely controlled operations. At <strong>the</strong> small monitoring station atopEckstein, a high German peak overlooking what was onceCzechoslovakia, <strong>the</strong> intercept operators were replaced with automaticantennas controlled in Augsburg, more than five hours away by car. Theonly people left were a few <strong>security</strong> guards and several maintenance staff.The drawdown was not limited to NSA. In <strong>the</strong> far north, on <strong>the</strong>doorstep <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> North Pole, several hundred people were cut from <strong>the</strong>Canadian listening post at Alert, <strong>the</strong> most important in <strong>the</strong> country. Aswith Eckstein and many o<strong>the</strong>r listening posts around <strong>the</strong> world,technology now permitted <strong>the</strong> station to be operated remotely fromthousands <strong>of</strong> miles away.Across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic, Britain's GCHQ was going through <strong>the</strong> samepost—Cold War trauma. In 1995, 900 <strong>of</strong> 6,000 jobs were ordered cutfrom <strong>the</strong> headquarters in Cheltenham over four years. Listening postswere also nailed shut, including <strong>the</strong> monitoring station at Culmhead in466

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