OScale Trains

10say whether the double-sided tape willbe permanent, at this point, since it is anexperiment. If you have a favorite methodfor attaching metal siding to wood orplastic, then use what works for you.13and gluing the two separate panels to thebuilding became a pain. As you are gluingin the strips that represent the standingseams on the Evergreen roofing, becertain to leave a space for the elevatorhousing on the one side.The Elevator HousingThe elevator housing (Photo 15) on15with a blunt stick (in this case, the end ofa paintbrush). A wooden skewer workswell too. I’ll admit this was tedious (Photo11) but not bad for such a small amount.I’ve since learned that K & S Metals is nowproducing scale corrugated siding for OScale, so give that a try if you like.11Once I had enough siding materialscribed, I cut it into roughly 3’ x 10-12’panels with a pair of scissors. The scribedfoil is surprisingly strong and won’t crushunder normal handling. To attach it to thebuilding shell, I tried another experimentand used doubled-sided Scotch brandtape. There are two kinds, permanentand removable. I used the permanenttype. I’ve had trouble with styrene warpageusing rubber or contact cement.Walthers Goo or CA might work, but Ididn’t want to chance it. I simply ran tapealong the top and bottom edges of eachrow of siding. I was very generous withthe tape, putting it wherever I needed tohold the siding down (Photo 12). I can’t12Photo 13 shows the partially completedbuilding with the corrugated sidingall finished and painted. For the endpainted white, I just used some flat spraypaint from an aerosol can. The rest of thetin was brushed with full strength GrimyBlack and weathered with burnt siennafor some rust effects. There are severaldoors on the west (white) end that wereindicated with simple panels of tin andsimulated door tracks made of some styrenescraps.RoofingThe roofing is a standing-seam typemade from Evergreen roofing material,0.040” thick with 3/16” spacing (#4521).I simply cut it to size, making an allowancefor the overhang on all four sides,then scoring the material along theridgeline. The Evergreen sheets weren’twide enough to cover the entire building.I had to splice two sheets together.For the moment, I left the roof off of thebuilding so that I could glue some moreof the 0.020” x 0.188” strip material onthe underside to represent the individualboard sheathing often seen on buildingslike this (Photo 14). I gave these14the top was made with a core of 0.040”styrene and covered with more aluminumfoil. See the drawings for dimensions. Ileft the foil smooth, since the prototype isjust covered with sheet metal. A coat offlat white spray paint and more Evergreenroofing material finished it off. Once it isglued to the roof with styrene cement, fillin any standing-seam strips around it. Aridge cap of 0.060” square styrene completesthe roof construction. I used moreof the Model Master Guards Red to paintthe roof, followed by a weathering coatof rust colored chalk dust for a nice flat,dry look.The FoundationWith the basic building shell finished,we can focus on the foundation. I castthe stone piers out of ordinary plaster ina styrene mold. I just made one long stripthat I cut into twelve pieces, rather thantrying to cast individual piers. The mold(Photo 16) was made from 0.040” styrene16boards a coat of Floquil Rail Brown and,since they wouldn’t be seen that much,I didn’t weather them. Adding these wasmuch easier with the roof off the building,although the excessive handling andflexing broke the score line at the ridgeand scaled out at 3’ wide, 3’ tall, and 36’long. As you can see in Photo 17, neatnesswasn’t a major concern during thecasting process. I didn’t bother to coat theinside of the form with anything as, theplaster wouldn’t stick to the plastic. OnceSept/Oct ’06 - O Scale Trains • 19