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<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong>!<br />

<strong>Sightseeing</strong> <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong> is easy and allows you <strong>to</strong> discover <strong>the</strong> Island of<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini by following your own program, at your own pace. You are free <strong>to</strong> use as many<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> buses as you wish <strong>with</strong> just one ticket! Visit <strong>the</strong> traditional villages, enjoy <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

fantastic architecture and magnificent land formation, <strong>the</strong> unique vineyards and of course <strong>the</strong><br />

breathtaking Caldera. Try local wines and specialties as exceptional as San<strong>to</strong>rini itself.<br />

The four <strong>SMART</strong> Lines: Red, Yellow, Orange and Blue, are at your disposal and will<br />

transfer you from four different directions <strong>to</strong> all over <strong>the</strong> island. We also offer you <strong>the</strong> Purple<br />

Line, which will take you <strong>to</strong> an unforgettable cruise in <strong>the</strong> proximity of <strong>the</strong> volcano.<br />

We advise you <strong>to</strong> take advantage of <strong>the</strong> discounted tickets for 2 and more days!<br />

The present guide will lead you through this amazing island so that you can learn it piece by<br />

piece along a route designed by yourself. We hope that you will enjoy it!<br />

Thank you for your <strong>SMART</strong> choice!<br />

1


2<br />

LIST OF CONTENTS<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong> Line Itinerary 3<br />

Remarks 5<br />

About San<strong>to</strong>rini … 6<br />

Introduction 6<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> LINES GUIDE<br />

RED Line<br />

Episkopi Gonias 7<br />

Mesa Gonia 9<br />

Exo Gonia 12<br />

Pyrgos and San<strong>to</strong> Wines 15<br />

Vothonas 21<br />

Messaria 25<br />

Karterados 28<br />

Fira 32<br />

Monolithos 39<br />

Kamari 42<br />

ORANGE Line<br />

Perissa 49<br />

Perivolos 53<br />

Vlychada and Exomitis 56<br />

Akrotiri & Red Beach 57<br />

Megalochori 62<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines 15<br />

Fira 32<br />

Emporio 67<br />

YELLOW Line<br />

Oia 72<br />

Finikia 78<br />

Imerovigli 81<br />

Firostefani 87<br />

Fira 32<br />

PURPLE Line<br />

Cruise in <strong>the</strong> Caldera 90<br />

BLUE Line<br />

Ancient Thira 91<br />

About Kamari Tours 93<br />

Legend <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> maps 94<br />

Useful phone numbers 96


LINES ITINERARY<br />

RED LINE<br />

Starting Point Pick Up / Drop Off Point Duration of Trip (min)<br />

Kamari Panagia Episkopi 5<br />

Mesa Gonia 10<br />

Exo Gonia 15<br />

Pyrgos 20<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines 25<br />

Vothonas 30<br />

Messaria 35<br />

Karterados 40<br />

Fira 45<br />

Fira Karterados 5<br />

Messaria 15<br />

Vothonas 20<br />

Monolithos 30<br />

Kamari 40<br />

ORANGE LINE<br />

Starting Point Pick Up / Drop Off Point Duration of Trip (min)<br />

Perissa Perivolos 5<br />

Exomitis 10<br />

Vlychada 15<br />

Akrotiri Village 20<br />

Akrotiri Excavations (closed) 25<br />

Megalochori 35<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines 40<br />

Fira 45<br />

Fira San<strong>to</strong> Wines 5<br />

Megalochori 10<br />

Akrotiri Village 25<br />

Akrotiri Excavations (closed) 30<br />

Emporio 40<br />

Perissa 45<br />

3


4<br />

YELLOW LINE<br />

Starting Point Pick Up / Drop Off Point Duration of Trip (min)<br />

Oia Finikia 5<br />

Imerovigli 20<br />

Firostefani 25<br />

Fira 30<br />

Fira Firostefani 5<br />

Imerovigli 10<br />

Finikia 25<br />

Oia 30<br />

BLUE LINE<br />

Starting Point Pick Up / Drop Off Point Duration of Trip (min)<br />

Kamari Ancient Thira 15<br />

Ancient Thira Kamari 15<br />

PURPLE LINE*<br />

Starting Point Pick Up / Drop Off Point Duration of Trip (min)<br />

Fira Athinios Port bus roundtrip 45<br />

Boat cruise 120<br />

* PURPLE Line: <strong>Sightseeing</strong> cruise in <strong>the</strong> bay of San<strong>to</strong>rini (Caldera). Our <strong>SMART</strong> boat will<br />

take you from <strong>the</strong> Athinios harbor <strong>to</strong> a picturesque cruise along <strong>the</strong> cliffs of San<strong>to</strong>rini. We will<br />

make a 20 minutes s<strong>to</strong>p at <strong>the</strong> beach of Thirassia Island where you can have a swim, and <strong>the</strong>n<br />

<strong>the</strong> boat will take you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> proximity of <strong>the</strong> volcano. During <strong>the</strong> sightseeing <strong>to</strong>ur you will<br />

have <strong>the</strong> opportunity <strong>to</strong> see from very close <strong>the</strong> cliffs of Caldera and take spectacular pictures.<br />

The duration of <strong>the</strong> trip is 45 minutes <strong>to</strong> and from Athinios Port <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> PURPLE Line’s bus<br />

(round trip), plus 2 hours <strong>the</strong> boat cruise, 2hours and 45 minutes in <strong>to</strong>tal.<br />

LINES CONNECTIONS:<br />

Fira Town - Lines connected: RED, ORANGE, YELLOW and PURPLE<br />

Kamari – Lines connected: RED and BLUE<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines - Lines connected: RED and ORANGE


REMARKS:<br />

• The 11€ All Day ticket, as well as <strong>the</strong> tickets for 2-, 3-, 4-, 5- and 6-days are valid for <strong>the</strong><br />

RED, ORANGE and YELLOW Lines only. Those tickets do not valid for any o<strong>the</strong>r line.<br />

• For <strong>the</strong> BLUE Line <strong>to</strong> Ancient Thira a separate ticket of 10€ is required (round trip<br />

transportation). This ticket does not valid for any o<strong>the</strong>r line.<br />

• For <strong>the</strong> PURPLE Line a separate ticket of 13€ is required. This ticket covers <strong>the</strong> round trip<br />

transportation from Fira <strong>to</strong> Athinios Port and back <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> PURPLE Line, and <strong>the</strong> non-s<strong>to</strong>p<br />

boat cruise along <strong>the</strong> Caldera. This ticket does not valid for any o<strong>the</strong>r line.<br />

Ticket sale points:<br />

• All Kamari Tours offices (Kamari- Fira-Perissa-Karterados)<br />

• O<strong>the</strong>r travel agencies and hotels in San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

• <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong> (at <strong>the</strong> boarding)<br />

For more information please contact: 22860 32751<br />

GENERAL RULES:<br />

The bus schedules may change during <strong>the</strong> season. You will find more information at <strong>the</strong> sale<br />

points.<br />

The tickets are valid for <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong> transportation only.<br />

The tickets valid only for <strong>the</strong> dates written on.<br />

Pick-up and drop-off are only possible at <strong>the</strong> <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ps. The exact location of <strong>the</strong><br />

s<strong>to</strong>ps is described in <strong>the</strong> guide handed over <strong>to</strong> you, free of charge, <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> purchase of <strong>the</strong><br />

ticket.<br />

The company-carrier is not responsible for any belongings left in <strong>the</strong> bus.<br />

The passengers are obliged <strong>to</strong> show valid ticket each time <strong>the</strong>y board on <strong>the</strong> <strong>SMART</strong> bus/<br />

boat.<br />

Drinking, eating and smoking are not allowed in <strong>the</strong> bus.<br />

REFUNDS<br />

Tickets are non-refundable. Full refund is guaranteed only in <strong>the</strong> case of a route cancelled<br />

by <strong>the</strong> company or when some changes will occur in <strong>the</strong> schedule due <strong>to</strong> reasons which are<br />

beyond <strong>the</strong> company’s control.<br />

5


ABOUT SANTORINI …<br />

THIRA – <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost island of Cyclades, counts 73 km 2 , is 18 km long, 2-6 km wide<br />

and 568 m high.<br />

It lost physical contact <strong>with</strong> Thirassia and Aspronisi - but still form a harmonious circle known<br />

as Thira.<br />

It remains in strict relation <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> volcanoes: Kameni, some 2 km off <strong>the</strong> western shore and<br />

<strong>the</strong> underwater Koloumbo, some 6.5 km off <strong>the</strong> eastern shore.<br />

It is known under <strong>the</strong> names of: Thira, Stroggili, Kallisti, San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

The extremely dry, yet explosive character of <strong>the</strong> island led it in <strong>the</strong> archaic past <strong>to</strong> loose more<br />

than half of its body, but did not calm it down. Successive explosions and earthquakes put<br />

Thira now and again in new trouble and it seems that, despite of frequent winds, <strong>the</strong>re is no<br />

way <strong>to</strong> extinguish its suicidal intentions.<br />

Thus, Thira remains a cauldron (Spanish Caldera) <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kameni islands stuck in <strong>the</strong> middle<br />

and keeping this pot boiling…<br />

To those who dare <strong>to</strong> stay here is dedicated this booklet.<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini actually consists of a group of five islands which form a crescent located in <strong>the</strong><br />

sou<strong>the</strong>rn Aegean Sea about 200 km SE from Greece’s mainland and 128 Nautical miles of<br />

Piraeus Port.<br />

The contrast of colors, light, earth and water makes San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>the</strong> most treasured in <strong>the</strong> gallery<br />

of Greek islands. Many things have been written about this unique island and many more will<br />

be written in <strong>the</strong> years <strong>to</strong> come but San<strong>to</strong>rini will always remain <strong>the</strong> crown of <strong>the</strong> Cyclades. This<br />

is one of <strong>the</strong> most popular destinations in Greece because of its most impressive landscape. It<br />

has been said <strong>the</strong> sunsets in San<strong>to</strong>rini are <strong>the</strong> most spectacular in <strong>the</strong> world. This is San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

seen through <strong>the</strong> eyes of people who know and love it.<br />

Transportation <strong>to</strong> and from San<strong>to</strong>rini is possible by ferry boats, high speed vessels and<br />

airplanes. On <strong>the</strong> island transportation is possible by car, moped or donkey…<br />

The island, <strong>with</strong> its picturesque villages, narrow alleys, traditional donkey rides, unique<br />

architecture, local delicacies (grapes, cherry <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es or <strong>to</strong>matakia, fava-beans and pistachios,<br />

<strong>to</strong> mention some of <strong>the</strong>m) and superb wines, gives <strong>the</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>r a sense of fulfillment, tranquility<br />

and refuge from <strong>the</strong> cares of <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

6


EPISKOPI GONIAS<br />

Please see <strong>the</strong> plan of Mesa Gonia<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: On <strong>the</strong> square in front of <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church courtyard.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

The oldest Byzantine church of <strong>the</strong> island, Panagia Episkopi (built in 1115), is <strong>the</strong> pride of<br />

<strong>the</strong> locals.<br />

It was built on <strong>the</strong> ruins of a 6th century church. Marble pieces from <strong>the</strong> ruined church were<br />

used <strong>to</strong> build <strong>the</strong> new one. S<strong>to</strong>nes from Ancient Thira were also used <strong>to</strong> build <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Panagia Episkopi. Originally it was <strong>the</strong> seat of <strong>the</strong> Orthodox Bishop. Following <strong>the</strong> 4th<br />

crusade <strong>the</strong> church it passed in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> hands of <strong>the</strong> Catholics (early 13th century). When <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks conquered San<strong>to</strong>rini in 1537, Panagia Episkopi returned <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Orthodox. The church is<br />

worth visiting not only because of its his<strong>to</strong>rical and architectural value, but also because of its<br />

picturesque location. It is approximately 10 minutes walking distance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south from Mesa<br />

Gonia. Despite <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>rmy past: a disastrous fire in 1915, <strong>the</strong> earthquake in 1956 and <strong>the</strong>ft of<br />

most precious icons in 1982, <strong>the</strong> church is still one of <strong>the</strong> most important monuments of <strong>the</strong><br />

island. The one surviving icon from <strong>the</strong> Byzantine collection, Panagia Glikofilousa, is still in<br />

<strong>the</strong> church’s sanctuary.<br />

The church is one of <strong>the</strong> few of <strong>the</strong><br />

island that are open for visiting.<br />

Holy mass is given every Sunday<br />

before noon. There is small<br />

entrance fee of 0.50 €.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

Remember: Taking pho<strong>to</strong>graphs<br />

<strong>with</strong> flash is forbidden inside <strong>the</strong><br />

church!<br />

The church is <strong>the</strong> first one on<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini built in Greek-cross<br />

style, <strong>with</strong> a central dome. You<br />

enter it by <strong>the</strong> western entrance.<br />

The first chamber is nar<strong>the</strong>x. From here you pass <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> nave. You are facing <strong>the</strong> impressing<br />

icon-screen (templon). It is an example of keromasticha - marble combined <strong>with</strong> wax<br />

decoration. The icons you see were brought <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church after <strong>the</strong> old ones had been s<strong>to</strong>len<br />

about 26 years ago. The only one remaining after <strong>the</strong> robbery can be seen on a side of <strong>the</strong><br />

nave, covered <strong>with</strong> glass and under precise humidity control. Some of <strong>the</strong> marble pieces that<br />

were rescued from <strong>the</strong> previous church are: <strong>the</strong> central columns, <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn entrance and<br />

<strong>the</strong> architraves.<br />

7


8<br />

CANAVA ROUSOS<br />

4<br />

6<br />

3<br />

5<br />

1<br />

EPISKOPI GONIAS<br />

1. PANAGIA EPISKOPI<br />

2. GRAVEYARD<br />

MESA GONIA<br />

3. CHURCH OF METAMORPHOSIS<br />

4. AG. TRIADA<br />

5. RUINED MANSION<br />

6. RUINED CAVES


The church interior was decorated <strong>with</strong> frescoes. Unfortunately, humidity more than <strong>the</strong> time,<br />

caused heavy damages <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

While being on <strong>the</strong> courtyard of <strong>the</strong> church devote some time <strong>to</strong> enjoy <strong>the</strong> nice view of Kamari<br />

and Monolithos, as well as <strong>the</strong> gorgeous mountain of Prophet Elias <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> southwest.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> back of <strong>the</strong> church is growing a carob tree, <strong>the</strong> fruits of which are considered a substitute<br />

of chocolate, popularly used as donkey food but also <strong>to</strong> treat diabetes.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> parking area, <strong>the</strong>re is a small sweet-water spring. Springs of sweet water are very scant<br />

in San<strong>to</strong>rini. Do not be mislead - this one collects rain water...<br />

No more than 80 m down <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong>wards Mesa Gonia <strong>the</strong>re is a white church located <strong>with</strong>in<br />

a small graveyard, and one more spring of rain water nearby. Here you will find a bench where<br />

you can sit and contemplate <strong>the</strong> surroundings…<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

15 min is enough.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat:<br />

The nearest place <strong>to</strong> have refreshment is an ouzerie-tavern in Mesa Gonia.<br />

Nearest spot of <strong>to</strong>urist interest:<br />

Mesa Gonia (approximately 10 minutes walking <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> north)<br />

MESA GONIA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: In front of <strong>the</strong> Canava Argyros.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Once, Mesa Gonia was <strong>the</strong> center of San<strong>to</strong>rini’s wine production. Located on <strong>the</strong> “foot” of <strong>the</strong><br />

mountain, it is <strong>the</strong> nearest village <strong>to</strong> Kamari. In old maps Mesa Gonia is referred <strong>to</strong> as Ka<strong>to</strong><br />

Gonia (The Corner Below) in contrast <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> nearby village Exo Gonia (previously called:<br />

Apano Gonia – The Corner Above).<br />

Two recognized old wineries are located in Mesa Gonia: Canava Roussos (established in 1836)<br />

and Canava Argyros (established in 1903). The his<strong>to</strong>ry of viticulture is as old as San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

itself but <strong>the</strong> real boom falls <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 17th and <strong>the</strong> 19th century. Due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> specific climate<br />

(hot summers, strong winds and lack of rainfalls), <strong>the</strong> grapes of San<strong>to</strong>rini are very sweet and<br />

<strong>the</strong> wine is strong and of high quality. Since almost everybody on <strong>the</strong> island was cultivating<br />

grapes, kanaves (wine cellars) became an integral part of each house. In practice kanava is<br />

a cellar in which <strong>the</strong>y press <strong>the</strong> grapes and s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>the</strong> wine barrels. It must be shady and cool,<br />

and have a small window for ventilation. Usually kanava has two rooms – one in where no<br />

light can enter, equipped <strong>with</strong> two wine-presses (separate for red and for white grapes), and<br />

a second one – antechamber <strong>with</strong> windows that allow a good ventilation. However, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is something more, not just wineries that make Mesa Gonia famous…His<strong>to</strong>ry of San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

is a his<strong>to</strong>ry of reiterating volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. Within <strong>the</strong> last 2000 years 3<br />

remarkably dramatic earthquakes <strong>to</strong>ok place: The first in 1650 (accompanied by tremendous<br />

9


10<br />

eruption which came from <strong>the</strong> volcano Koloumbo),<br />

<strong>the</strong> second in 1707 and <strong>the</strong> third in 1956. There is<br />

no village in San<strong>to</strong>rini that escaped <strong>the</strong> serious<br />

damages which <strong>the</strong> last earthquake caused. But <strong>the</strong><br />

real memorial of that event is Mesa Gonia.<br />

Until <strong>the</strong> earthquake of 1956, Mesa Gonia was a<br />

lively, picturesque village. During <strong>the</strong> earthquake it<br />

was heavily destructed and has never been res<strong>to</strong>red.<br />

But even now a short stroll among <strong>the</strong> ruins will<br />

convince you that this place is still fascinating.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> earthquake <strong>the</strong> residents of <strong>the</strong> village<br />

moved down <strong>to</strong> Kamari village. However, more<br />

or less 30 families are faithful <strong>to</strong> Mesa Gonia and<br />

stubbornly remain on <strong>the</strong> post…<br />

Strolling around:<br />

Hint: Do not enter <strong>the</strong> ruins. In case you forget this<br />

warning, a big board near <strong>the</strong> Church of Aghia Triada<br />

will kindly remind you again…<br />

You start from <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Canava Argyros. It is one of <strong>the</strong> two oldest wineries on <strong>the</strong> island. The second one is Canava<br />

Roussos, located 50 m down <strong>the</strong> village, near <strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong> Kamari. Canava Roussos is<br />

open for visiting and wine tasting.<br />

The narrow street will lead you in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> settlement, where ruined farm houses stay in contrast<br />

<strong>to</strong> lush flowers and shrubs. The church of Metamorphosis, that is <strong>the</strong> first church on your<br />

way, is an early XIX century structure. Have a look at <strong>the</strong> beautiful mosaic of white and black<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes, which covers <strong>the</strong> front-yard, typical San<strong>to</strong>rini-style decoration. Ano<strong>the</strong>r church on<br />

your way, <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> blue dome, is Aghia Triada. Behind it, slightly <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> right, you will find<br />

ruined caves for keeping animals (so called mantra). Stay on <strong>the</strong> main avenue though. Some<br />

10 m fur<strong>the</strong>r, on a hill <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> left, is located an abandoned archontiko. These architec<strong>to</strong>nically<br />

sophisticated buildings belonged <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> landlords. You can continue your stroll <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong><br />

western end of <strong>the</strong> village, where few more caves are <strong>to</strong> be seen.<br />

After returning <strong>to</strong> Canava Argyros follow <strong>the</strong> left branch of <strong>the</strong> street, down <strong>to</strong> nearby located<br />

Canava Roussos. You can pay a visit <strong>the</strong>re and taste famous San<strong>to</strong>rini wines…<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>r from Canava Roussos <strong>the</strong> street leads <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public road. Some 60 m down <strong>the</strong> road<br />

<strong>to</strong>wards Exo Gonia you will find a signpost <strong>to</strong><br />

Art Space of Argyros Canava Exhibition. This<br />

walk requires 5 minutes and by its end you will


have opportunity <strong>to</strong> find out more about <strong>the</strong> art and life on San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

20 minutes is enough <strong>to</strong> explore <strong>the</strong> settlement.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat:<br />

In <strong>the</strong> area <strong>the</strong>re is only an ouzerie-tavern by <strong>the</strong> exit from <strong>the</strong> village.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Episkopi Gonias (approx. 10 min <strong>to</strong> S), Exo Gonia (approx. 10 min <strong>to</strong> N, however walking <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> village requires ano<strong>the</strong>r 20-25 min)<br />

ARGYROS ESTATE<br />

Episkopi-Gonia,<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 31489<br />

Fax: 22860 32285<br />

Email: margiros@otenet.gr<br />

www.argyrosestate.gr<br />

11


12<br />

EXO GONIA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: On <strong>the</strong> main road, opposite <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Charalambos.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Exo Gonia is one of <strong>the</strong> few villages of San<strong>to</strong>rini that stay in contrast <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s busy<br />

summer life. Exo Gonia is considered <strong>the</strong> ideal village for those who wish <strong>to</strong> enjoy <strong>the</strong> silence<br />

of rustic surroundings far from <strong>the</strong> vigorous reality of <strong>the</strong> island. The village is located on a<br />

hill next <strong>to</strong> Mesa Gonia. Because of its location in his<strong>to</strong>rical times Exo Gonia was duly named<br />

Apano Gonia (The Corner Above). To <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> village leads a public road that has 9 sharp<br />

bends. Crowning glory of <strong>the</strong> village is <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Charalambos, one of <strong>the</strong> biggest<br />

churches of <strong>the</strong> island, <strong>with</strong> imposing red domes. The church of Aghios Charalambos was<br />

built in 1941 on a site of a monastery which was dissolved in 1833. The view from <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of<br />

<strong>the</strong> village allows you <strong>to</strong> admire<br />

<strong>the</strong> island from <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast: Prophet EIlias<br />

and Mesa Vouno <strong>with</strong> Kamari<br />

at its foot, Monolithos <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

airport and Fira on <strong>the</strong> rim of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera. On <strong>the</strong> hill <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

southwest proudly dominates<br />

above Exo Gonia <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />

village of Pyrgos<br />

Strolling around:<br />

While being at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong><br />

village, take a walk around <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Aghios Charalambos.<br />

Look at <strong>the</strong> beautiful mosaic<br />

cobbling on <strong>the</strong> courtyard.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> right corner of <strong>the</strong> courtyard,<br />

hidden among trees, <strong>the</strong>re is a monument, <strong>the</strong> tribute <strong>to</strong> those islanders who fell in <strong>the</strong> world<br />

war. Follow <strong>the</strong> stairs down <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ouzerie Metaxy Mas. From here you can turn left in<strong>to</strong><br />

a narrow street. More or less half way down, on <strong>the</strong> slope you will see ruined cave houses.<br />

On your right side (next <strong>to</strong> a garage), you will find a stairway leading down in<strong>to</strong> an even more<br />

interesting part of <strong>the</strong> village. Have a short stroll <strong>the</strong>re and admire <strong>the</strong> colorful and fantastic<br />

traditional architecture. About 40 m away <strong>the</strong>re is an old church of Aghios Theologos <strong>with</strong><br />

beautiful, red-and-white bell-<strong>to</strong>wer. Behind <strong>the</strong> church, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> right, <strong>the</strong>re is one more ruined<br />

cave house. From here you can follow <strong>the</strong> stairway up behind <strong>the</strong> church. You will reach a<br />

cobbles<strong>to</strong>ne street near <strong>the</strong> ouzerie Metaxy Mas. This loop will take you no more than 15


minutes. You can turn left behind <strong>the</strong><br />

tavern and follow <strong>the</strong> alleyway where<br />

you will see a few neoclassical mansion<br />

houses (so called archontika).<br />

If you pass <strong>the</strong> turn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Aghios Theologos and follow <strong>the</strong><br />

narrow street down, you will soon get <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> main road. The small white church<br />

on <strong>the</strong> verge of <strong>the</strong> road looks as if it was<br />

about <strong>to</strong> slide down <strong>the</strong> entire slope.<br />

Option for <strong>to</strong>ugh hikers: Pass <strong>the</strong> church<br />

and go down <strong>the</strong> road until <strong>the</strong> next<br />

curve where you will find a signpost<br />

leading <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Vlasios.<br />

The trail <strong>to</strong> Aghios Vlasios initially<br />

leads in <strong>the</strong> north direction. You will see<br />

<strong>the</strong> San<strong>to</strong>rini airport from a distance.<br />

You can also enjoy a panoramic view<br />

of <strong>the</strong> island. With <strong>the</strong> small exception<br />

of a trash disposal area which will<br />

accompany you for a short while, <strong>the</strong><br />

trail passes through an uninhabited, rural<br />

area. The church of Aghios Vlasios, a<br />

typical island-style church, as almost of <strong>the</strong> island’s churches is closed. The trail also passes<br />

from a barn-yard. At <strong>the</strong> crossroads turn left and follow <strong>the</strong> road that will take you almost<br />

in front of Aghios Charalambos church. This walk will take you about 30 minutes but in <strong>the</strong><br />

hot summer days you may find it ra<strong>the</strong>r exhausting. However, it can be very romantic if you<br />

happen <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong>re during sunset…<br />

If you wish <strong>to</strong> continue your walk along <strong>the</strong> main road, skipping <strong>the</strong> Aghios Vlasios church’s<br />

trail, descend <strong>to</strong> an old Canava (it is hard <strong>to</strong> miss <strong>the</strong> big inscription on its gate). There is an<br />

old cave <strong>with</strong> its front wall made of black lava s<strong>to</strong>nes and a narrow concrete passage next <strong>to</strong><br />

it. If you follow it up you will get very soon <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> Art Space.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

In order <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> village 40 minutes are more than enough, unless you decide <strong>to</strong> extend your<br />

visit <strong>to</strong> Aghios Vlasios church’s route (this will take you approximately 30 more minutes).<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat:<br />

Exo Gonia offers attractions<br />

for your eyes, but still refuses<br />

<strong>to</strong> take care of your s<strong>to</strong>mach.<br />

Actually you can just count on<br />

refreshment served in ouzeritavern<br />

Metaxy Mas, close <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Aghios Charalambos.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Mesa Gonia (approximately 10<br />

minutes walking from <strong>the</strong> Art<br />

Gallery).<br />

13


14<br />

ART CENTER<br />

5<br />

KAMARI<br />

AG. VLASIOS TR.<br />

2<br />

4<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1<br />

METAXY<br />

MAS<br />

PYRGOS<br />

1<br />

2<br />

AG.VLASIOS<br />

TRAIL<br />

MESSARIA<br />

S<br />

EXO GONIA<br />

1. AG. CHARALAMBOS<br />

2. GRAVEYARD<br />

3. AG. VLASIOS<br />

4. AG. THEOLOGOS<br />

5. OLD CANAVA<br />

W<br />

E<br />

3<br />

N


PYRGOS AND SANTO WINES<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. San<strong>to</strong> Wines, 1km west from Pyrgos village. Lines: RED, ORANGE<br />

2. First square (Soro<strong>to</strong>n Sq.) in Pyrgos. RED Line only.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Picturesquely located on a round hill, some 360 m above <strong>the</strong> sea level. After <strong>the</strong> collapse of<br />

<strong>the</strong> medieval capital on Skaros, Pyrgos became <strong>the</strong> temporary capital of <strong>the</strong> island until 1800.<br />

Pyrgos has a long his<strong>to</strong>ry; it is believed <strong>to</strong> be one of <strong>the</strong> 6 settlements of Ancient Thira.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> Middle Ages, mainly during Latin rule up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century <strong>the</strong> island suffered<br />

a lot from pirate raids. The locals had <strong>to</strong> fortify <strong>the</strong>ir settlements. This is how <strong>the</strong> kastelia<br />

appeared on <strong>the</strong> island. Kastelia were built also in Skaros, Oia, Emporio and Akrotiri. The<br />

oldest known documentation about Kasteli of Pyrgos is dated back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century. Kastelia<br />

were built in strategic positions, highest and most inaccessible parts of <strong>the</strong> island so that<br />

<strong>the</strong>y were easy <strong>to</strong> defense and <strong>to</strong> survey <strong>the</strong> neighborhood. Because of limited space, sloping<br />

ground and <strong>the</strong>ir defensive character, <strong>the</strong> houses <strong>with</strong>in kastelia were densely packed, literally<br />

stuck one by ano<strong>the</strong>r. The outermost houses were also <strong>the</strong> outer walls of <strong>the</strong> fortification.<br />

The streets of kasteli (rymidia) were narrow and irregular, forming a labyrinth-like net. The<br />

fortified entrance <strong>to</strong> Kasteli of Pyrgos was on its western side and its defensive character was<br />

streng<strong>the</strong>ned by constructions <strong>with</strong> pots for hot oil which was spilt on enemies. The entrance<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kasteli is called Xeporta – <strong>the</strong> Outside Door.<br />

At times of Turkish domination on <strong>the</strong> island (1537-1821) pirate raids ceased gradually and<br />

<strong>the</strong> locals started <strong>to</strong> build <strong>the</strong>ir houses outside <strong>the</strong> kastelia. The new districts of once fortified<br />

settlements were growing dynamically, becoming continuation of maize-like character of<br />

kasteli…<br />

Kasteli of Pyrgos suffered severe<br />

damages during <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake.<br />

Until <strong>the</strong> earthquake, narrow alleyways<br />

of Kasteli were covered <strong>with</strong> plako<strong>to</strong><br />

(s<strong>to</strong>ne pavement). Later <strong>the</strong>y had been<br />

covered <strong>with</strong> concrete <strong>to</strong> smooth <strong>the</strong><br />

breakages and <strong>to</strong> cover telephone wiring.<br />

In some places, especially on <strong>the</strong> sides<br />

of footways you can spot fragments of<br />

original plako<strong>to</strong>.<br />

Contemporary Pyrgos is a vast, lively<br />

settlement covering <strong>the</strong> hill all around,<br />

far beyond <strong>the</strong> boundaries of Kasteli. It<br />

has more than 650 permanent residents.<br />

It also prides itself of having <strong>the</strong> highest<br />

15


location of all villages on San<strong>to</strong>rini. In Pyrgos you will find more than 40 churches. As almost<br />

all churches on San<strong>to</strong>rini, <strong>the</strong>y are opened only at special occasions like celebration of <strong>the</strong><br />

patron. That particular day wine and traditional food prepared by local housekeepers is served<br />

in <strong>the</strong> church and everybody is welcome <strong>to</strong> join <strong>the</strong> feast (panigiri).<br />

Ironically, despite <strong>the</strong> fairly high number of churches adorning Pyrgos <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir white and<br />

blue domes and sophisticated bell-<strong>to</strong>wers, <strong>the</strong> regular holy mass takes place in <strong>the</strong> small Agios<br />

An<strong>to</strong>nios some 100 m behind <strong>the</strong> square, far down <strong>the</strong> hill<br />

16<br />

Strolling around:<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines:<br />

San<strong>to</strong> Wines is 1 km NW from Pyrgos village, by<br />

<strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong> Fira. It is <strong>the</strong> largest winery on<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini which operates since 1992 and is also<br />

<strong>the</strong> most modern winery facility on <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

built on five levels. The surrounding vineyards are<br />

spread at different levels which form traditional<br />

terraces. The winery is located at <strong>the</strong> edge of <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera and <strong>the</strong>refore offers <strong>the</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>r not only<br />

interesting <strong>to</strong>ur <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> winemaking area but also<br />

unforgotten wine tasting <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> view <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

volcano.<br />

Pyrgos village:<br />

From <strong>the</strong> small square (Emmanouil Soro<strong>to</strong>u)<br />

where <strong>the</strong> Smart Bus will leave you follow <strong>the</strong><br />

main road in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main square<br />

(Stefanou Melekou). Start your stroll from<br />

paying a visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> exhibition “The Vanishing<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini” which you will find some 80 m down<br />

<strong>the</strong> square. The museum is located in old kanava. A short visit <strong>the</strong>re will give you a picture of<br />

<strong>the</strong> past everyday life of <strong>the</strong> islanders.<br />

In order <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> Kasteli follow <strong>the</strong> steps behind <strong>the</strong> post box at <strong>the</strong> Melekou square. On your<br />

way up you will have opportunity <strong>to</strong> buy local products and wine. For your convenience it is<br />

advisable <strong>to</strong> postpone <strong>the</strong> shopping until <strong>the</strong> return from kasteli. From here <strong>the</strong> best way <strong>to</strong> get<br />

up is following <strong>the</strong> blue arrows painted on <strong>the</strong> streets<br />

The first big church on your way is church of Christ. This church celebrates its panigiri on<br />

August 6th, only 9 days before <strong>the</strong><br />

celebration of <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

church in Pyrgos – <strong>the</strong> so called<br />

Theo<strong>to</strong>kaki (Church of Virgin Mary).<br />

For this reason meals served on August<br />

6 do not contain meat. Meat, which is<br />

scarce on San<strong>to</strong>rini, is preserved for<br />

<strong>the</strong> big feast in Theo<strong>to</strong>kaki that will<br />

take place a few days later.<br />

The arched gate <strong>to</strong> kasteli (Xeporta -<br />

Outside door) is above a square called<br />

Exoplateia. Once, noblemen of <strong>the</strong><br />

settlement ga<strong>the</strong>red around here <strong>to</strong><br />

vote. Have a look at <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Aghios Nikolaos <strong>with</strong> a bell-<strong>to</strong>wer that<br />

is said <strong>to</strong> be one of <strong>the</strong> most beautiful


on this island. In front of <strong>the</strong> church stands a monument commemorating those islanders<br />

who died during <strong>the</strong> World War. On <strong>the</strong> opposite side you will see a neoclassic mansion <strong>with</strong><br />

beautiful ornaments. There are more mansions like this around <strong>the</strong> kasteli. They usually are<br />

distinguished from <strong>the</strong> surroundings not only by <strong>the</strong>ir size and sophisticated architecture, but<br />

also vivid colors. These houses are an architec<strong>to</strong>nic work-of-art that could be afforded only<br />

by <strong>the</strong> landlords. They appeared on<br />

<strong>the</strong> island during <strong>the</strong> more peaceful<br />

times, after pirate attacks finally<br />

ceased. Behind <strong>the</strong> mansion is <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Aghia Theodosia.<br />

If you wish <strong>to</strong> do something more<br />

extravagant, have a picture taken on<br />

a donkey in <strong>the</strong> square…<br />

After entering <strong>the</strong> kasteli, take a<br />

right turn. Just behind <strong>the</strong> corner<br />

is one of <strong>the</strong> biggest churches on<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini – Eisodion tis Theo<strong>to</strong>kou<br />

(Presenatation of Saint Mary)<br />

dated from 17th century. In <strong>the</strong><br />

neighborhood is <strong>the</strong> ochre-painted<br />

church of Aghia Triada, formerly<br />

catholic, now it is housing a<br />

collection of liturgical objects and<br />

icons, <strong>the</strong> oldest of which is dated<br />

<strong>to</strong> 16th century. The museum is operating from March <strong>to</strong> Oc<strong>to</strong>ber and entrance is free of<br />

charge. You are actually at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> Kasteli. Behind <strong>the</strong> Aghia Triada is a narrow passage<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> small, white-washed Theo<strong>to</strong>kaki. It is dated from 10th century and is one of <strong>the</strong> oldest<br />

churches on this island. The view of <strong>the</strong> island from here is gorgeous and will repay you all<br />

your efforts which you put <strong>to</strong> get <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Hint: The Kasteli is criss-crossed by countless narrow streets and stairways running in all<br />

possible directions but even if you have <strong>the</strong> impression of being lost, do not worry, <strong>the</strong> blue<br />

arrows will appear mercifully under your feet at <strong>the</strong> most unexpected moment…<br />

From <strong>the</strong> Stefanou Melekou square you can follow <strong>the</strong> plako<strong>to</strong> that runs <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east. Soon<br />

you will get on<strong>to</strong> a small parking area near a school. There are three streets going out from<br />

<strong>the</strong>re. The left one will take you back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main square, <strong>the</strong> middle one leads <strong>to</strong> Kasteli. The<br />

right one is not paved and leads along <strong>the</strong> north-eastern walls of Kasteli. This is an option for<br />

<strong>to</strong>ugh hikers. The walk takes about 20 minutes and gives you opportunity <strong>to</strong> enjoy panoramic<br />

views of <strong>the</strong> island. On <strong>the</strong> foot of <strong>the</strong><br />

mountain of Profitis Ilias is a quarry of<br />

pumice s<strong>to</strong>ne (SE). Then, in a valley you<br />

can spot big, grey edifice of <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Saint Nicolas dated from <strong>the</strong>18th century,<br />

lost among terraced fields. Like Episkopi<br />

Gonias, this church was raised <strong>with</strong> use<br />

of marble elements from Ancient Thira.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> path still <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east you will<br />

easily find <strong>the</strong> red domes of <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Aghios Charalambos on <strong>the</strong> very <strong>to</strong>p of<br />

Exo Gonia, and finally <strong>the</strong> long grey line<br />

of <strong>the</strong> airport. Your way now will turn<br />

left; up <strong>the</strong> rock is <strong>the</strong> white church of<br />

Aghios Chris<strong>to</strong>foros. Climb up <strong>the</strong> stairs,<br />

17


pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church and continue your walk. Continue <strong>the</strong> walk until you get back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Church of Aghia Theodosia at <strong>the</strong> NW side of <strong>the</strong> Kasteli. From here you have only 5 minutes<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> square of Stefanou Melekou. Well done!<br />

It is time <strong>to</strong> have a rest.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing: To get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of kasteli from <strong>the</strong> <strong>SMART</strong> bus s<strong>to</strong>p on <strong>the</strong><br />

first square of Pyrgos count 25 minutes. Add more time so you can better explore <strong>the</strong> kasteli,<br />

though.<br />

18<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do<br />

shopping:<br />

Within <strong>the</strong> romantic<br />

surroundings of Kasteli<br />

you can have a rest at<br />

Franco’s Café next <strong>to</strong><br />

Eisodion tis Theo<strong>to</strong>kou<br />

church or café-ouzerie<br />

Penelope just behind <strong>the</strong><br />

Church of Christ.<br />

The main square offers<br />

a choice between Café<br />

and tavern Kasteli. Down<br />

<strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong><br />

Emmanouil Soro<strong>to</strong>u<br />

square (NW, direction <strong>to</strong><br />

Fira) is Mythos tavern<br />

and spaghetteria-pizzeria<br />

Mylos on <strong>the</strong> very square.<br />

If you follow <strong>the</strong> street fur<strong>the</strong>r down you can have dinner at Restaurant Pyrgos. This is an<br />

option for those who like <strong>to</strong> eat in style.<br />

Public <strong>to</strong>ilets (no offence) are down <strong>the</strong> main square, look for signposts.<br />

In Pyrgos you will easily find mini markets, bakery, and souvenir s<strong>to</strong>res by <strong>the</strong> main square.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

There you will also find Kallisti Tavern. An excellent choice for Greek traditional cuisine.<br />

There are art galleries on <strong>the</strong> way up <strong>to</strong> Kasteli, <strong>the</strong> last one is in proximity of Xeporta, behind<br />

<strong>the</strong> church of St. Nicolas.<br />

Some 50 m fur<strong>the</strong>r down <strong>the</strong> public road, behind Mythos tavern you will find a s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>with</strong><br />

traditional products, but you can get <strong>the</strong>m also on <strong>the</strong> way leading <strong>to</strong> Kasteli, just behind <strong>the</strong><br />

tavern of <strong>the</strong> same name.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

1 km from Pyrgos (at <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>to</strong> Fira) <strong>the</strong>re is a winery San<strong>to</strong> Wines, which you can visit.<br />

If you get <strong>the</strong>re on afternoon, you may have opportunity <strong>to</strong> try San<strong>to</strong>rini wines while watching<br />

<strong>the</strong> sunset.<br />

If you like mountaineering, have a walk <strong>to</strong> Profitis Ilias. The <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> mountain counts 568<br />

m above <strong>the</strong> sea level and is located 3 km away from Pyrgos (sic!). To get <strong>the</strong>re follow <strong>the</strong><br />

main road, pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios An<strong>to</strong>nios, follow for <strong>the</strong> next 100 m and look for<br />

a signpost “Profitis Ilias footway” on <strong>the</strong> left side of <strong>the</strong> road. Have a close look at <strong>the</strong> church<br />

Aghoi Apos<strong>to</strong>loi, <strong>the</strong> only preserved remainder of a 19th century school founded at this site<br />

by <strong>the</strong> monastery of Profitis Ilias, and enjoy your walk…


N<br />

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8<br />

10<br />

PYRGOS<br />

1. SOROTOY SQ.<br />

2. MELEKOY SQ.<br />

3. SCHOOL<br />

4. VANISHING SANTORINI<br />

5. AG. ANTONIOS<br />

6. AG. APOSTOLOI<br />

7. AG. NICOLAS<br />

8. AG. CHRISTOFOROS<br />

9. KASTELI ENTRANCE (XEPORTA)<br />

10. NORTH SIDE OF THE KASTELI<br />

4<br />

9<br />

PYRGOS 7<br />

6<br />

1<br />

FIRA 3<br />

MYLOS<br />

2<br />

MYTHOS<br />

TO SANTO WINES 1 km<br />

7<br />

4<br />

9<br />

SEE THE NEXT PAGE<br />

5<br />

PROFIT IS ILIAS<br />

10<br />

6<br />

19


20<br />

8<br />

4<br />

7<br />

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6<br />

3<br />

PYRGOS KASTELI<br />

1. CH. OF CHRIST<br />

2. AG. DIMITRIS<br />

3. AG. THEODOSIA<br />

4. AG. NICOLAS<br />

5. XEPORTA<br />

6. ISODION TIS THEOTOKOY<br />

7. AG. TRIADA<br />

8. THEOTOKAKI


VOTHONAS<br />

KALLISTI<br />

Pyrgos,<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 34108<br />

Fax: 22860 33347<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. <strong>Buses</strong> arriving from San<strong>to</strong> Wines: by <strong>the</strong> north entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> settlement (next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p<br />

for public buses, in front of <strong>the</strong> school).<br />

2. <strong>Buses</strong> arriving from Messaria: 200 m down <strong>the</strong> main road, <strong>to</strong>wards Messaria. The bus will<br />

s<strong>to</strong>p on <strong>the</strong> first crossroads (by <strong>the</strong> parking area).<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Vothonas is ano<strong>the</strong>r example of a “river-bed” settlement. The village is located in a 5 km long<br />

galley. The settlement, which his<strong>to</strong>ry goes back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18th century, does not extend that far<br />

though. Vothonas, as o<strong>the</strong>r villages of this type, is densely built due <strong>to</strong> limited width of <strong>the</strong><br />

ravine. To gain more space <strong>the</strong> majority of dwellings are carved in <strong>the</strong> soft tephra (mix of<br />

pumice and volcanic ash). Because of <strong>the</strong>ir simplicity <strong>the</strong>se cave houses (so called hyposkafa)<br />

have been very popular on San<strong>to</strong>rini, especially among farmers, who were not well-off. Now<br />

<strong>the</strong>y belong <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> most expensive dwellings on this island.<br />

Hyposkafa are quite narrow, but long. The front wall has door and windows on both sides<br />

of it. Most of <strong>the</strong> cave houses have one main room just behind <strong>the</strong> door and a smaller one<br />

(bedchamber) on <strong>the</strong> back. The wall sharing <strong>the</strong> two rooms has also openings analogous <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> front wall. The roofing is vaulted. A small kitchen is adjacent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main room. Restroom<br />

is outside in <strong>the</strong> courtyard, where also <strong>the</strong> cistern for collecting rainwater is located. Water<br />

was always scarce on San<strong>to</strong>rini and <strong>the</strong>refore rain was <strong>the</strong> main source of sweet water on <strong>the</strong><br />

island.<br />

21


Hyposkafa, due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir vaulted roofing and flexible construction material have anti-seismic<br />

properties. Even more, porous pumice is a good isolating material, <strong>the</strong>refore ensures relatively<br />

stable temperatures inside <strong>the</strong> house. Last but not least, <strong>the</strong> only element connecting <strong>the</strong> house<br />

<strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> outside world was a narrow front wall, so that <strong>the</strong> dwelling was hard <strong>to</strong> find by pirates.<br />

While landlords had <strong>the</strong>ir kastelia, farmers had <strong>the</strong>ir own barricades <strong>with</strong>in hyposkafa.<br />

Many houses on San<strong>to</strong>rini are half-built – <strong>the</strong>y are carved in <strong>the</strong> rock, but <strong>the</strong>ir façade is not<br />

limited <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front wall, but is built, <strong>to</strong> make <strong>the</strong> construction more spacious. It is not difficult<br />

<strong>to</strong> spot both types of constructions in Vothonas.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The nor<strong>the</strong>rn descent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village<br />

is by a stairway from <strong>the</strong> public<br />

road, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public school.<br />

From this stairway you have a short<br />

walk <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> yellow-colored church<br />

of Aghia Anna (left turn before an<br />

arch), or you can continue straight<br />

forward (pass through <strong>the</strong> arch),<br />

along street Ilia Anaplioti. This<br />

street runs along <strong>the</strong> galley. On<br />

both its sides you will see rocky<br />

walls, literally perforated <strong>with</strong><br />

numerous cave houses, so that<br />

hardly a piece of un<strong>to</strong>uched rock<br />

can be seen. After some 5 minutes<br />

of walking you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of <strong>the</strong> inhabited area where more hyposkafa can bee seen. Some of <strong>the</strong>m are abandoned and<br />

<strong>the</strong> surroundings gradually become wilder and greener. For next 60 m <strong>the</strong> way is dominated<br />

by wild nature, so that you will never get tired <strong>with</strong> this walk. It will take you <strong>to</strong> a church of<br />

Aghios Prokopios, which is carved in <strong>the</strong> rock.<br />

There is also ano<strong>the</strong>r church carved<br />

in <strong>the</strong> rock, which Vothonas is<br />

famous for. This one is called<br />

Panagia Sergena, or more popularly<br />

– Panagia tis Trypas. If you return<br />

from Aghios Prokopios, just by<br />

<strong>the</strong> first opportunity turn left and<br />

go <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west. From <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

entrance, take a right turn before<br />

<strong>the</strong> arch and <strong>the</strong>n take ano<strong>the</strong>r right<br />

turn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west, so that soon you<br />

will pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> salmon-colored<br />

church of Aghia Triada. Just below is<br />

one more church in a cave. Proceed<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west. Both streets finally<br />

will lead you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> big church of<br />

Panagia (faded salmon color). Have<br />

a look at <strong>the</strong> fascinating front walls<br />

of <strong>the</strong> cave houses around <strong>the</strong>re. Then proceed along <strong>the</strong> street SW, along <strong>the</strong> galley. There<br />

are roughly 300 m <strong>to</strong> go. The inhabited area ends here. The street leads now among mostly<br />

abandoned caves. A whitewashed church high up on <strong>the</strong> slope can make your heart beats faster,<br />

but this is not your final destination. Anyways, you can climb up <strong>the</strong> 85 steps leading <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

22


church of Aghios Georgios,<br />

because <strong>the</strong> view from<br />

above is fascinating! If you<br />

are visiting Vothonas shortly<br />

before sunset you will see<br />

far away in <strong>the</strong> gorge <strong>the</strong><br />

village sparkling white and<br />

orange in <strong>the</strong> evening sun.<br />

From Aghios Georgios<br />

<strong>the</strong> way becomes less<br />

comfortable; it soon turns<br />

in<strong>to</strong> a narrow trail laid <strong>with</strong><br />

small pumice s<strong>to</strong>nes. For<br />

this reason it is good <strong>to</strong> plan<br />

this walk some time sooner<br />

and take athletic shoes <strong>with</strong><br />

you. Flip-flops may spoil all<br />

<strong>the</strong> attraction… The church<br />

of Panagia tis Trypas (Virgin<br />

Mary in <strong>the</strong> Hole) was a<br />

shelter for <strong>the</strong> locals during<br />

pirate invasions. The church was dug in <strong>the</strong> rock 20 m above <strong>the</strong> ground, once <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong><br />

it was by a ladder, which was pulled up after <strong>the</strong> people climbed it.<br />

Return <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village <strong>the</strong> same way as you came here. To find <strong>the</strong> exit from <strong>the</strong> village go<br />

<strong>to</strong>wards Aghia Triada, turn left after getting <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church courtyard and follow <strong>the</strong> passage<br />

about 50 m more. You will be at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn end of <strong>the</strong> village.<br />

While being in Vothonas it is recommended <strong>to</strong> extend your walk <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> winery of<br />

Koutsogiannopoulous. The winery is about 1.5 km east from <strong>the</strong> center of <strong>the</strong> settlement,<br />

by <strong>the</strong> road Kamari-Messaria. The easiest way <strong>to</strong> get <strong>the</strong>re is <strong>to</strong> follow <strong>the</strong> street leading <strong>to</strong><br />

Aghios Prokopios, pass <strong>the</strong> church and continue until you get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public road. Turn left and<br />

<strong>the</strong> winery is on right side of <strong>the</strong> road. You can have a <strong>to</strong>ur <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> underground museum of <strong>the</strong><br />

winery that presents <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of viticulture in a very specific and amusing way. The figures,<br />

movable and immovable are <strong>the</strong> second-<strong>to</strong>-none attraction of <strong>the</strong> exhibition. The winery is<br />

open for visits everyday from 10:00 <strong>to</strong> 20:00, <strong>the</strong> ticket allows you <strong>to</strong> both visit <strong>the</strong> museum<br />

(<strong>with</strong> an electronic guide) and <strong>to</strong> taste San<strong>to</strong>rini wines. Every week <strong>the</strong>re are also organized<br />

Greek Nights <strong>with</strong> traditional music and dance.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

From <strong>the</strong> north entrance of <strong>the</strong> settlement <strong>to</strong> Panagia tis Trypas is 20 minutes <strong>to</strong> go.<br />

Roughly 15 minutes are needed <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> Aghios Prokopios. For <strong>the</strong> route <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> winery of<br />

Koutsogiannopoulos you should calculate an additional 15 minutes from Aghios Prokopios.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

By <strong>the</strong> exit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public road from <strong>the</strong> Aghios Prokopios route is tavern Kritikos, where<br />

specialties of Crete are served.<br />

More taverns are in Messaria, from <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn village entrance follow <strong>the</strong> main road down,<br />

some 200 m <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> crossroads.<br />

The nearest shopping facility is <strong>the</strong> super market on <strong>the</strong> main road leading <strong>to</strong> Messaria, more<br />

s<strong>to</strong>res are around <strong>the</strong> crossroads in Messaria.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Messaria – 2 minutes walk.<br />

23


24<br />

3<br />

1<br />

6<br />

4 5<br />

WINDMILLS BY THE<br />

NORTH ENTRANCE<br />

PANAGIA TIS TRYPAS<br />

VOTHONAS<br />

1. AG. ANNA<br />

2. AG. PROKOPIOS<br />

3. MANSION NEAR AG. TRIADA<br />

4. AG. TRIADA<br />

5. CH. OF PANAGIA<br />

6. AG. GEORGIOS


MESSARIA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: Argyroy Street, in front of <strong>the</strong> ruined Saliveros mansion.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

One more example of<br />

settlements located in <strong>the</strong> gorge.<br />

For this reason <strong>the</strong> central part<br />

of <strong>the</strong> settlement is built up<br />

<strong>with</strong> traditional farm houses and<br />

mansions while on its rocky sides<br />

you encounter numerous cave<br />

houses. Existence of Messaria is<br />

mentioned in his<strong>to</strong>rical reports<br />

dated <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 17th century. The<br />

name of <strong>the</strong> village refers <strong>to</strong> its<br />

geographical location: in <strong>the</strong><br />

middle of <strong>the</strong> island (Greek:<br />

mesa = in <strong>the</strong> middle). Once<br />

(19th and early 20th century)<br />

Messaria was <strong>the</strong> industrial<br />

center of <strong>the</strong> island. Here operated <strong>the</strong> big Markezini knitting fac<strong>to</strong>ry and Venetzanos Winery.<br />

Contemporary Messaria is a lively village and centre of wine production, surrounded <strong>with</strong><br />

vineyards.<br />

Walking along <strong>the</strong> streets in Messaria does not require a long time, <strong>the</strong> village <strong>with</strong> its more<br />

or less 700 inhabitants is ra<strong>the</strong>r small and its size is naturally limited by <strong>the</strong> ravine in which is<br />

located. It is devoid of <strong>the</strong> harmony and beauty of Karterados, Finikia or Vothonas. The streets<br />

have a ra<strong>the</strong>r hard-up character and constantly barking dogs will convince you that you are<br />

nothing more than an intruder. Despite this, Messaria has some highlights that will catch your<br />

eye, and for this reason it is worth <strong>to</strong> devote some time for a visit.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

You start your visit in vicinity of <strong>the</strong> imposing, ruined mansion of family Saliveros. Just<br />

behind this is old winery of Venetsanos (<strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> long chimney). You can walk along <strong>the</strong><br />

narrow Danezi street where most of <strong>the</strong> houses here are contemporary structures, by <strong>the</strong> end<br />

though, near a church, <strong>the</strong>re are some abandoned cave houses.<br />

A more interesting route you can take if you turn right from Argyroy street and pass next <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> school. Go <strong>to</strong>wards an outstanding, colorful Argyros Mansion. This 19th century eclectic<br />

building suffered serious damages after <strong>the</strong> earthquake, but was res<strong>to</strong>red and currently is open<br />

for visits. Guided <strong>to</strong>urs are run from May <strong>to</strong> Oc<strong>to</strong>ber. Turn left behind <strong>the</strong> mansion and climb<br />

up <strong>the</strong> stairs <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> courtyard of <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Dimitris. It was built late in <strong>the</strong> 19th<br />

century. Adjacent <strong>to</strong> it is <strong>the</strong> white-domed church of Christ. On <strong>the</strong> left side you will encounter<br />

25


uins of <strong>the</strong> Markenzini knitting<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>ry set up in 1889.<br />

Return <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Argyros Mansion<br />

and go north so that you go under<br />

an arch and turn left <strong>to</strong> get next<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Christ. Follow<br />

<strong>the</strong> passage, on your right side<br />

you will soon see <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Aghia Barbara, and next – <strong>the</strong><br />

big church of Aghia Irini <strong>with</strong><br />

its fancy bell-<strong>to</strong>wer. A few steps<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> church <strong>the</strong>re are ruined<br />

cave houses. Continue up <strong>the</strong><br />

street. It is about 100 m long. At<br />

its end, which is actually <strong>the</strong> exit<br />

from <strong>the</strong> densely built up village,<br />

on <strong>the</strong> left side of <strong>the</strong> street stays<br />

a ruined windmill. From here <strong>the</strong><br />

best thing <strong>to</strong> do is <strong>to</strong> return <strong>the</strong><br />

same way you have come. Behind <strong>the</strong> church of Christ turn left. This street runs parallel <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

previous one, but in <strong>the</strong> proximity of <strong>the</strong> slope so that you can see numerous hyposkafa dug<br />

in its walls. The nearest church on this way is raised just by <strong>the</strong> rocky wall. The first example,<br />

really worth seeing, are cave houses on <strong>the</strong> backside of <strong>the</strong> church which you encounter as<br />

soon as you turn in<strong>to</strong> this street. Fur<strong>the</strong>r up <strong>the</strong> street, on <strong>the</strong> left is an old, neglected mansion.<br />

You can try <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> end of this street, but a better idea is <strong>to</strong> save your energy for nearby<br />

located Vothonas.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

To see traditional settlement 30 minutes is enough.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

On <strong>the</strong> main crossing of Messaria <strong>the</strong>re is a tavern, cafeteria, and <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong> football square<br />

grill-souvlaki. More taverns are located along <strong>the</strong> road <strong>to</strong> Fira (north direction), as well as a<br />

pharmacy and books<strong>to</strong>re. In <strong>the</strong> vicinity you will find also a bakery and mini market. Following<br />

<strong>the</strong> road <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south (<strong>to</strong>wards Vothonas) you will find a big discount supermarket.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Vothonas – 200 m south from <strong>the</strong> crossroads.<br />

26


N<br />

E<br />

W<br />

S<br />

MESSARIA<br />

1. SALIVEROS MANSION<br />

2. VENETSANOS WINERY<br />

3. ARGYROS MANSION<br />

4. KNITTING FACTORY<br />

5. AG. DIMITRIS<br />

6. CH. OF CHRIST<br />

7. AG. BARBARA<br />

8. AG. IRINI<br />

KARTERADOS<br />

5<br />

PHARMACY<br />

8<br />

7<br />

6<br />

5<br />

8<br />

M-M<br />

3<br />

KAMARI<br />

4<br />

SPORTS<br />

GROUND<br />

1<br />

A RGYROY ST.<br />

SCHOOL<br />

3<br />

2<br />

DANEZI ST.<br />

M-M<br />

VOTHONAS VOTHONAS 4<br />

27


28<br />

KARTERADOS<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: Public bus s<strong>to</strong>p on <strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong> Fira, just by <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong><br />

Karterados.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Karterados is a lively village located on <strong>the</strong> way from Messaria <strong>to</strong> Fira. The nearest beach is<br />

Monolithos, some 3 km down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east.<br />

The his<strong>to</strong>ry of Karterados goes back as far as <strong>the</strong> mid 17th century. This is a typical excavated<br />

settlement. There are a number of settlements on San<strong>to</strong>rini which, like Karterados, are located<br />

in a so-called “river-bed”. They have a linear scheme, stretching along natural ravine. Steep<br />

sides of <strong>the</strong> ravine, which are mainly composed of tephra (mix of pumice and volcanic ashes)<br />

are ideal <strong>to</strong> dig caves. For poor peasants <strong>the</strong>se dwellings offered not just space <strong>to</strong> live, but also<br />

shelter during piracy attacks. Who would suppose that in 21st century <strong>the</strong>y will gain one more<br />

function – a <strong>to</strong>urist attraction…<br />

As <strong>the</strong> time passed by and <strong>the</strong> danger of pirate raids had decreased, along <strong>the</strong> ravine grew also<br />

built houses. Characteristic for <strong>the</strong>se settlements are houses which, wea<strong>the</strong>r built or dug, do not<br />

follow any architec<strong>to</strong>nic plan. They were built by <strong>the</strong> same people who were <strong>to</strong> live in <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

The only thing <strong>the</strong> builders had <strong>to</strong> consider<br />

was <strong>the</strong> limited space. Therefore <strong>the</strong> houses<br />

feature a multitude of irregular shapes.<br />

More recent his<strong>to</strong>ry added <strong>to</strong> this landscape<br />

deliberately designed mansions (see: OIA <strong>to</strong><br />

find out more about <strong>the</strong> mansions)<br />

Karterados is an amazingly colorful<br />

settlement where old, partly ruined cave<br />

houses stay in contrast <strong>to</strong> fascinating<br />

mansions and built farm houses of all<br />

possible forms. This is what real San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

is about!<br />

A unique attraction of Karterados is <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Panagia Kokkini (Virgin Mary of<br />

Red). The s<strong>to</strong>ry says that for construction<br />

of this church red wine was used instead of<br />

water. At some, more dramatic moments in<br />

<strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of San<strong>to</strong>rini, wine was cheaper<br />

than sweet water. Whe<strong>the</strong>r red wine was<br />

used as a building component of <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Panagia Kokkini or <strong>to</strong> quench <strong>the</strong> thirst of<br />

builders, <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry does not specify…


One is sure – you will not get bored while<br />

strolling in Karterados!<br />

Strolling around:<br />

Follow down <strong>the</strong> main street <strong>to</strong> its end.<br />

There is a square here <strong>with</strong> an old windmill<br />

and a monument dedicated <strong>to</strong> islanders<br />

killed during <strong>the</strong> war.<br />

Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Bound: Behind <strong>the</strong> square turn<br />

right and go down. The big church behind<br />

is under renovation and is dedicated <strong>to</strong><br />

Aghios Ioannis. Its vast grey edifice is<br />

easily discernible from <strong>the</strong> public road.<br />

Follow <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong> approach <strong>the</strong> slopes<br />

(left turn, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east). Surprisingly<br />

in Karterados <strong>the</strong>re are not <strong>to</strong>o many<br />

stairways. The streets are usually covered<br />

<strong>with</strong> concrete, which makes <strong>the</strong> stroll<br />

much easier. Follow <strong>the</strong> narrow street <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> east, which runs along <strong>the</strong> ravine. The<br />

Church of Aghios Zosimas, up by <strong>the</strong> slope<br />

is partly dug and partly built. It is dated <strong>to</strong><br />

end of <strong>the</strong> 17th century and once was in<br />

possession of <strong>the</strong> Profitis Ilias Monastery. The Monastery had <strong>to</strong> sell it at <strong>the</strong> beginning of<br />

19th century <strong>to</strong> finalize <strong>the</strong> establishment of a Greek School near Pyrgos. Along this way you<br />

will see numerous cave houses standing face <strong>to</strong> face <strong>with</strong> magnificent mansions and modern<br />

villas built on <strong>the</strong> opposite side of <strong>the</strong> street. The last cave on this way is standing out from <strong>the</strong><br />

surroundings because of its unusual blue color. A closer look will explain <strong>the</strong> phenomenon - it<br />

is used as a place of… carpenter’s workshop.<br />

Turn left behind <strong>the</strong> workshop, because as you have already discerned, you gone out of <strong>the</strong><br />

settlement. Some 5 minutes later you will get <strong>to</strong> a street that is again leading along <strong>the</strong> village.<br />

The view down, behind a tennis court will hold your breath for a while. This is <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

part of Karterados that you should explore and you will not regret it!<br />

A big ochre church <strong>with</strong> twin<br />

<strong>to</strong>wers is <strong>the</strong> church of Analipsis.<br />

Behind that, more <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is a new church that catches<br />

<strong>the</strong> eye by its pastel pink color.<br />

Although painted already, is still<br />

under construction. In <strong>the</strong> colorful<br />

reality of Karterados this building<br />

looks like candy.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> far distance, at <strong>the</strong> Caldera<br />

is located Fira, <strong>the</strong> capital of<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini. Go along <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> west (view <strong>to</strong> Fira on your<br />

right side) <strong>to</strong> see more of <strong>the</strong><br />

landscape and <strong>to</strong> return <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

centre of Karterados. The white<br />

church of Paniagia by <strong>the</strong> road<br />

is set among lush palm trees and<br />

simply calls for a picture.<br />

29


If you wish, have a seat in one<br />

of <strong>the</strong> taverns along <strong>the</strong> main<br />

street <strong>to</strong> do a favor also <strong>to</strong> your<br />

s<strong>to</strong>mach. Because as far as<br />

Karterados is concerned, it has<br />

still more surprises for your<br />

eyes!<br />

Nor<strong>the</strong>rn Bound: follow <strong>the</strong><br />

street up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public road,<br />

but do not go that far. Turn<br />

right behind Hotel Cyclades<br />

(across <strong>the</strong> street you will see<br />

<strong>the</strong> office of Kamari Tours) and<br />

descend <strong>the</strong> street for about<br />

50 m <strong>to</strong>wards Villa Margarita.<br />

Take <strong>the</strong> first turn right, prior<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Villa and now go <strong>to</strong>wards<br />

<strong>the</strong> colorfully painted red and<br />

rose Villa Nicolas. It is easy <strong>to</strong><br />

spot it. Pass it and enjoy your<br />

walk along one more extremely<br />

narrow and picturesque passage<br />

of Karterados.<br />

Two minutes away from Villa<br />

Nicolas is <strong>the</strong> magnificent<br />

church of Analipsis. Around<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are also located mansion houses, neoclassical architecture and fantastic colors of which<br />

will satisfy everybody’s taste. Then continue along <strong>the</strong> same way that brought you <strong>to</strong> this<br />

point and turn left. Now you will have <strong>the</strong> “pastel church” just across <strong>the</strong> fence. Next one,<br />

just behind, is <strong>the</strong> white church of Panagia Kardiotissa. Across <strong>the</strong> street is an old windmill.<br />

Just behind it <strong>the</strong>re is a left turn, follow <strong>the</strong> passage for about 100 m more. This part of <strong>the</strong><br />

way you are is already at <strong>the</strong> outskirts of Karterados, so forgive <strong>the</strong> barking dogs and make<br />

few more steps so that you get literally on<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> courtyard of <strong>the</strong> church of Panagia Kokkini.<br />

If you follow <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west and take <strong>the</strong> second turn left (first one will bring you <strong>to</strong> a<br />

private possession) you will soon get in proximity of Villa Margarita. From <strong>the</strong>re it is only 2<br />

minutes <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main street.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

All distances in Karterados are actually short, and <strong>to</strong> make each of <strong>the</strong> two suggested rounds<br />

roughly 20-30 minutes is enough. It is safer <strong>to</strong> count 30 additional minutes just <strong>to</strong> idle<br />

around…<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

Along <strong>the</strong> main road of Karterados <strong>the</strong>re is a variety of taverns serving good traditional food,<br />

also creperie and cafeteria. By <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> Karterados and across <strong>the</strong> street you will find<br />

a bakery and pastry s<strong>to</strong>re. At <strong>the</strong> main street of Karterados <strong>the</strong>re is also internet café. Next <strong>to</strong><br />

it is a mini-market. There is no s<strong>to</strong>re in Karterados where you can get traditional San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

products, however you can ask in <strong>the</strong> mini-market next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> internet café. The owner can<br />

provide you <strong>with</strong> fava-beans, <strong>to</strong>matakia or wine from his family business.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Fira, about 2km north from Karterados.<br />

30


KARTERADOS<br />

1. KAMARI TOURS OFFICE<br />

2. MINI MARKET INTERNET CAFÉ<br />

3. POLICE DEPARTMENT<br />

4. AG. IOANNIS<br />

5. SQUARE<br />

6. AG. ZOSIMAS<br />

7. CH. OF PANAGIA<br />

8. CH. OF ANALIPSIS<br />

9. NEW CHURCH<br />

10.PANAGIA KARDIOTISSA<br />

11.PANAGIA KOKKINI<br />

9<br />

7<br />

6<br />

11<br />

8<br />

31


32<br />

FIRA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p for lines YELLOW, ORANGE , RED and PURPLE:<br />

By <strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong> Pyrgos, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> parking area of <strong>the</strong> supermarket Champion (approx.<br />

80 m down from <strong>the</strong> office of Kamari Tours.)<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Fira can be found on <strong>the</strong> west coast of <strong>the</strong> island, perched on <strong>the</strong> caldera cliffs.<br />

Fira was established by ex-inhabitants of <strong>the</strong> kasteli of Skaros, who after its damage in 1650<br />

were forced <strong>to</strong> look for new place <strong>to</strong> live (see: IMEROVIGLI for more information). In 1800<br />

<strong>the</strong> medieval capital on Skaros did not exist anymore. Its inhabitants moved it <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir possessions <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir new home in Fira.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> time Fira was being built, <strong>the</strong> piracy on San<strong>to</strong>rini has ceased but <strong>the</strong> island was still<br />

under Turkish occupation. Written notes dated <strong>to</strong> 1745 mention existence of look-out <strong>to</strong>wer<br />

in Fira, so called Goulas. In <strong>the</strong> same notes for <strong>the</strong> first time in his<strong>to</strong>ry appears <strong>the</strong> name of<br />

<strong>the</strong> village as FIRA.<br />

As o<strong>the</strong>rs located on <strong>the</strong> Caldera settlements, Fira has a linear scheme <strong>with</strong> central road<br />

running parallel <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> Caldera. Fira is overlooking <strong>the</strong> volcano from an altitude of<br />

260 m. However, <strong>to</strong> be just, it has <strong>to</strong> be mentioned that <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn district of Fira occupies<br />

much of <strong>the</strong> lower part of <strong>the</strong> Caldera and <strong>the</strong>refore is named Ka<strong>to</strong> Fira (<strong>the</strong> Lower Fira). This<br />

is <strong>the</strong> part where <strong>the</strong> City Hall is located. Here, on <strong>the</strong> slope of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, is embedded <strong>the</strong><br />

18th century church of Aghios Minas, as if defining <strong>the</strong> point from where your stroll along<br />

Fira should begin.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> dramatic volcano eruption some 3500 years ago, part of <strong>the</strong> island disappeared<br />

under seas waters which are now splashing against <strong>the</strong> high cliffs of <strong>the</strong> Caldera. The true<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ry gave rise <strong>to</strong> a myth of Atlantis. The myth became an integral part of San<strong>to</strong>rini life and<br />

<strong>the</strong>refore <strong>the</strong> first hotel built on <strong>the</strong> Caldera in Fira <strong>to</strong>ok a name of Atlantis. Ka<strong>to</strong> Fira is also a<br />

seat of Orthodox metropolis, while <strong>the</strong> north<br />

part of <strong>the</strong> city is a seat of Catholic one.<br />

Long karavolades (about 566 steps<br />

featuring a huge zig-zag on <strong>the</strong> cliff) lead<br />

<strong>to</strong> Mesa Gialos, an old harbor of Fira<br />

where currently most of cruiser boats are<br />

anchoring. You will find <strong>the</strong>re also an old<br />

<strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry. Fira is <strong>the</strong> only village on<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera that offers easy and comfortable<br />

way of transport on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p: a cable car. The<br />

streets running along <strong>the</strong> line of <strong>the</strong> Caldera<br />

are covered <strong>with</strong> black and white s<strong>to</strong>nes<br />

(kalderimia) making <strong>the</strong> stroll in <strong>the</strong> village<br />

even more attractive. In Fira <strong>the</strong>re are a<br />

number of museums <strong>with</strong> exhibitions that


will give you detailed information about<br />

<strong>the</strong> island.<br />

Although heavily ruined after <strong>the</strong> 1956<br />

earthquake Fira quickly res<strong>to</strong>red its status<br />

quo and remains <strong>the</strong> most important center<br />

of <strong>the</strong> island, bursting <strong>with</strong> life for all<br />

seasons of <strong>the</strong> year.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The main street of Fira will lead you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

centre of <strong>the</strong> village, which is full of shops<br />

and traffic. If you decide <strong>to</strong> explore Fira<br />

just walking along it - be careful, because<br />

before you know it you will get <strong>to</strong> adjacent<br />

Firostefani…<br />

The cable car is located in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

part of Fira which is also <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn border of <strong>the</strong> city. This is a catholic district; you will<br />

easily find <strong>the</strong> Dominican Convent <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> medieval Rozario church (red bell-<strong>to</strong>wer). Next <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Convent is <strong>the</strong> catholic ca<strong>the</strong>dral of St. John <strong>the</strong> Baptist. Holy masses are given everyday<br />

at 8:00, and on Sundays at 10:00. The sophisticated bell-<strong>to</strong>wer of this church is dominating<br />

over <strong>the</strong> city and catches an eye from a remarkable distance. Behind <strong>the</strong> Dominican Convent<br />

begin <strong>the</strong> suburbs of Fira, known as Firostefani. If you get on <strong>the</strong> Caldera and look <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

right you will see <strong>the</strong> red mansion of Petros Nomikos Conference Centre, where you can pay<br />

visit <strong>to</strong> see reproductions of wall-paintings from Akrotiri (for more details about <strong>the</strong> Centre<br />

see: FIROSTEFANI). Back from <strong>the</strong> Centre, on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> hill was located goulas of Fira.<br />

Most likely it was raised <strong>the</strong>re before <strong>the</strong> settlement of Fira was build. It collapsed after <strong>the</strong><br />

earthquake in 1956. The current yellow building is an exact replica of <strong>the</strong> original goulas. It<br />

is now private possession.<br />

Megaron Gyzi, a museum located in an old mansion, is adjacent <strong>to</strong> Convent of Dominicans<br />

and remains under its care. It is definitely worth visiting, because <strong>the</strong> museum houses a rich<br />

exhibition of his<strong>to</strong>rical documents, old pho<strong>to</strong>graphs of San<strong>to</strong>rini, original engravings of maps,<br />

traditional costumes, and finally - paintings of known Greek and foreign painters on San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

The museum is open everyday from 10:30 <strong>to</strong> 20:00, <strong>with</strong> a break 13:00-17:00. On Sundays it<br />

is open from 10:30 <strong>to</strong> 16:30.<br />

Before you leave <strong>the</strong> Catholic district of Fira, pay a visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Archaeological Museum. It<br />

is located on <strong>the</strong> same square where you find <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cable-car. You will find a<br />

collection of sculptures and clay pottery mostly from Ancient Thira, but also from Akrotiri.<br />

The museum is open everyday except Mondays 8:30-15:00. There is a small entrance fee<br />

(Sundays free).<br />

To get <strong>to</strong> Ka<strong>to</strong> Fira you can ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

follow kalderimi along <strong>the</strong> rim of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera, or <strong>the</strong> one that is down<br />

<strong>the</strong> square where <strong>the</strong> Archaeological<br />

Museum is located. Practically, it<br />

is <strong>the</strong> one that is nearest <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main<br />

street and leads straight <strong>to</strong> Megaron<br />

Gyzi. There is lot <strong>to</strong> see around here.<br />

This kalderimi is probably one of <strong>the</strong><br />

most sophisticated on San<strong>to</strong>rini; <strong>the</strong><br />

small black and white s<strong>to</strong>nes compose<br />

fantastic mosaics. Along this narrow<br />

street are located little colorful houses,<br />

making you feel as if you were in a<br />

33


surroundings but also your private belongings…<br />

34<br />

fairy tale. No two houses <strong>the</strong> same!<br />

Every one built according <strong>to</strong> its own<br />

sophisticated architec<strong>to</strong>nical plan.<br />

Toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir vivid colors<br />

<strong>the</strong>se houses simply catch your eye!<br />

But… trying <strong>to</strong> see all this in full<br />

season may be a challenge; more<br />

than <strong>the</strong> architecture, you will have<br />

<strong>to</strong> mind <strong>the</strong> myriad of people who<br />

came here for <strong>the</strong> same reason as<br />

you…<br />

Hint: Fira is full of attractions<br />

and for this reason is also full of<br />

people. Keep watching not only <strong>the</strong><br />

The gate <strong>to</strong> Ka<strong>to</strong> Fira is <strong>the</strong> huge, whitewashed Orthodox Ca<strong>the</strong>dral of Ypapanti built in<br />

1827. After <strong>the</strong> earthquake it turned in<strong>to</strong> ruins, following <strong>the</strong> fate of most o<strong>the</strong>r buildings<br />

on San<strong>to</strong>rini. A new church of Metamorphosis was built later on. In front of <strong>the</strong> Ca<strong>the</strong>dral<br />

is a Caldera view point. From here you can watch <strong>the</strong> cruise ships arriving and leaving from<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini and small sail boats heading <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> volcano and Thirassia.<br />

Near <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south, <strong>the</strong>re is a big tetragonal edifice of hotel Atlantis. And<br />

down, on <strong>the</strong> foot of Caldera in blue seas water is <strong>the</strong> lost Atlantis…<br />

Well, who knows…<br />

If you venture a walk from here along stairways on <strong>the</strong> cliff, you will pass next <strong>to</strong> hotels <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most sophisticated traditional architecture. The entrance part is usually built, but you can<br />

be sure that most of <strong>the</strong> accommodation is hyposkafo (cave) <strong>with</strong> endless, narrow stairways.<br />

You will pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Ioannis Par<strong>the</strong>nos <strong>with</strong> elegant red door- and<br />

window-lintels. On <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost part of <strong>the</strong> Fira’s Caldera <strong>the</strong>re is a white-washed church<br />

of Aghios Minas, which dates <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18 th century and has a characteristic dome <strong>with</strong> lantern,<br />

inspired by renaissance style.<br />

It is good moment <strong>to</strong> return down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village and pay a visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum of Prehis<strong>to</strong>ric<br />

Thera on <strong>the</strong> back of <strong>the</strong> Orthodox Ca<strong>the</strong>dral. There are about 500 artifacts on permanent<br />

exhibition. There you can see <strong>the</strong> range of findings from Akrotiri, including some fragments<br />

of wall-paintings and those few pieces of jewellery found in <strong>the</strong> abandoned ancient settlement.<br />

The museum is open every day from 8:00 <strong>to</strong> 15:00, closed on Mondays. Entrance fee is 3<br />

Euro.<br />

Adjacent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> post-office, opposite <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> office of Kamari Tours, is <strong>the</strong> Bellonio Cultural<br />

Centre. It hosts cultural shows, meetings and promotes cultural an artistic development of <strong>the</strong><br />

island. There is a well supplied library here also. Down <strong>the</strong> street is <strong>the</strong> bus terminal of Fira.<br />

The main street will lead you <strong>to</strong> a square <strong>with</strong> a statue commemorating those islanders who<br />

died in fight for independence. Do not idle <strong>to</strong>o long <strong>the</strong>re. Just for your knowledge, behind is<br />

<strong>the</strong> Tax Office…<br />

Some 600 m north-east from Fira is located a small village Kondochori. The attraction of<br />

Kon<strong>to</strong>chori is Emmanouil A. Lignos Folclore Museum set in <strong>the</strong>19 th century cave house.<br />

There you can see exhibition of San<strong>to</strong>rini art and old winery. There is a small entrance fee.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

From 1 hr <strong>to</strong> 5 hrs.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

There is a verity of taverns, cafeterias and shops in Fira. The most interesting, which combine<br />

a good service <strong>with</strong> picturesque view of <strong>the</strong> caldera are <strong>to</strong> be found along <strong>the</strong> Golden Street


14 20<br />

15<br />

12<br />

FIRA<br />

1. HOSPITAL<br />

2. BELLONIO CULT. CENTER<br />

3. POST OFFICE<br />

4. KAMARI TOURS OFFICE<br />

5. PIRAEUS BANK (next 700m.)<br />

6. EUROBANK<br />

7. ALPHA BANK<br />

8. NATIONAL BANK<br />

9. PHARMACY<br />

10. CABLE CAR<br />

11. AG. MINAS<br />

12. AG. IOANNIS PARTHENOS<br />

13. PREHISTORIC MUSEUM<br />

14. ORTHODOX CATHEDRAL<br />

15. KALDERIMI<br />

16. ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM<br />

17. ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST<br />

CATHEDRAL<br />

18. DOMINICAN CONVENT WITH<br />

THE ROZARIO CHURCH<br />

19. MEGARON GYZI<br />

20. PETROS NOMIKOS CONF.<br />

CENTRE<br />

21. GOULAS<br />

11<br />

17<br />

OLD PORT<br />

35


– <strong>the</strong> uppermost calderimi<br />

running along <strong>the</strong> very rim<br />

of <strong>the</strong> caldera.<br />

There, just opposite <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Orthodox Ca<strong>the</strong>dral you<br />

will find <strong>the</strong> Archipelagos<br />

Restaurant. A few meters<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> north is<br />

Cafe Del Mar, a famous cafι<br />

bar <strong>with</strong> outstanding caldera<br />

view.<br />

There are numerous<br />

jewellery s<strong>to</strong>res and art<br />

galleries located along<br />

calderimia and in <strong>the</strong> center<br />

of Fira. Opposite Cafe Del Mar you will find Lalaounis Jewellery Shop. The uppermost<br />

calderimi running along <strong>the</strong> Caldera rim is actually called “<strong>the</strong> Gold Street”. Guess why…?<br />

By <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> steps leading <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Old Port <strong>the</strong>re is Ras<strong>to</strong>ni Bar Restaurant and a few<br />

meters down from <strong>the</strong>re you will also find a traditional tavern Volcano.<br />

There are also numerous shops selling traditional products of San<strong>to</strong>rini. It is worth visiting <strong>the</strong><br />

one by <strong>the</strong> road leading <strong>to</strong> Kon<strong>to</strong>chori and Traditional Products S<strong>to</strong>re on <strong>the</strong> calderimi leading<br />

<strong>to</strong> Archaeological Museum. You will enjoy San<strong>to</strong>rini tradition while being offered a sample<br />

of wine and α pumice s<strong>to</strong>ne. Down along <strong>the</strong> main street you will find a local outdoor market,<br />

so that you can buy <strong>the</strong>se products straight from <strong>the</strong> farmer.<br />

And for <strong>the</strong> night, something that sounds “beyond cool” is Casablanca Soul bar. Inspired<br />

cocktails, timeless music and cool, happy people will keep your spirit up.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Firostefani, Petros Nomikos Conference Centre – 1 km from Fira center (N).<br />

Kon<strong>to</strong>chori: 10 minutes walk from <strong>the</strong> main square.<br />

Karterados – 2 km <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south.<br />

ARCHIPELAGOS<br />

The Greek restaurant<br />

Fira - San<strong>to</strong>rini pc 84700<br />

Tel-Fax: 22860 23673<br />

Tel: 22860 24059<br />

info@archipelagos-san<strong>to</strong>rini.com<br />

36


CAFΕ DEL MAR<br />

Fira Caldera, San<strong>to</strong>rini Greece Tel: +30 6939 095 681<br />

ILIAS LALAOUNIS<br />

Ypapantis Street 84700 Fira, San<strong>to</strong>rini HELLAS Tel: 22860 25844 Fax: 22860 25842<br />

Emails: lalaounis@san.forthnet.gr And lalaounis_san<strong>to</strong>rini@otenet.gr<br />

RASTONI BAR RESTAURANT<br />

Fira, San<strong>to</strong>rini Tel: 22860 25117<br />

37


38<br />

VOLCANO TAVERNA<br />

Fira, San<strong>to</strong>rini Tel: 22860 22850<br />

CASABLANCA<br />

Fira, Jewllery Street<br />

Tel: 6946632799<br />

ΘΗΡΑΣ ART<br />

PAINTING<br />

CREATIONS<br />

TEL: 6974364183<br />

www.ilias-art.gr


MONOLITHOS<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: In front of <strong>the</strong> Memories Hotel, on crossroads.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Monolithos is stretched along<br />

<strong>the</strong> airport. The beach of<br />

Monolithos is a perfect place<br />

for families <strong>with</strong> children. The<br />

beach is organized and <strong>the</strong> sea<br />

here is relatively shallow. You<br />

will find here enough free space<br />

<strong>to</strong> relax on <strong>the</strong> black sand.<br />

The landmark of <strong>the</strong> region is a<br />

grey rock <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of St.<br />

John <strong>the</strong> Baptist on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p. The<br />

rock gave name <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village.<br />

Greek: Mono-lithos translates<br />

<strong>to</strong> “single rock”. Toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

<strong>with</strong> mountain of Mesa Vouno<br />

and Profitis Ilias, this is a nonvolcanic<br />

formation. So <strong>the</strong>y stay<br />

in contrast <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> island, which is covered <strong>with</strong> layers of volcanic ashes, gradually<br />

thickening <strong>with</strong> each of <strong>the</strong> 14 eruptions that <strong>to</strong>ok place <strong>with</strong>in last 3500 years.<br />

The first San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry was built 1925-26 in Monolithos. At <strong>the</strong> beginning of<br />

<strong>the</strong> 20th century, when worldwide interest <strong>to</strong> San<strong>to</strong>rini wine declined dramatically, farmers<br />

switched <strong>to</strong> growing <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es. Export of San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es soon became very profitable<br />

and <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ries were needed,<br />

<strong>to</strong> ensure effective sale <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

distant destinations.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> mid 20th century <strong>the</strong>re were<br />

13 <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ries on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

Currently only one is still operating<br />

– in Monolithos.<br />

Apart from <strong>the</strong> above attractions<br />

Monolithos is stretched along <strong>the</strong><br />

sea shore, so what it has <strong>to</strong> offer is<br />

also beach, beach, beach….<br />

39


Strolling around:<br />

Monolithos has an organized<br />

black sandy beach that is<br />

more quiet and relaxing than<br />

adjacent Kamari.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> beach of Monolithos<br />

you can visit <strong>the</strong> church of St.<br />

John <strong>the</strong> Baptist on <strong>the</strong> rock.<br />

It will take you no more than<br />

10 minutes <strong>to</strong> walk <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry is by <strong>the</strong><br />

square. If you like <strong>to</strong> have a<br />

walk, go along <strong>the</strong> beach <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> north <strong>to</strong> see sophisticated<br />

forms of eroded volcanic<br />

rocks. You can find caves dug<br />

in <strong>the</strong>re as well.<br />

A walk <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south will take you <strong>to</strong> Gaia Winery, which is set in an old <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry. This<br />

one is though at fair distance, more than 3 km from <strong>the</strong> square.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Depending how long you want <strong>to</strong> stay on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

Along <strong>the</strong> beach are spread taverns offering tasty food and fresh fish. However distances<br />

between one and ano<strong>the</strong>r may seem quite considerable. If you do not like <strong>to</strong> walk, you will<br />

find something on <strong>the</strong> square. Also <strong>the</strong>re is a mini market <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

Kamari – 4 km<br />

40<br />

CAPTAIN LOIZOS<br />

Restaurant,<br />

Grill House, Fish Tavern<br />

Monolithos, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel-Fax: 22860 31063<br />

Mob: 6976 862825


MONOLITHOS<br />

1. TOMATO FACTORY<br />

2. CH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST<br />

3. BLACK BEACH<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

41


42<br />

KAMARI<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: for lines RED and BLUE in front of Kamari Tours Transfer Office<br />

(opposite <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> football field)<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Picturesquely located where <strong>the</strong> sea meets <strong>the</strong> mountain, Kamari has become a focus of<br />

summer leisure. It is lively and bustling village, <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> long, organized Black Beach. But<br />

you make <strong>the</strong> mistake thinking that Kamari has nothing more <strong>to</strong> offer. The site where this<br />

modern village is located has its long, long his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

You can find Kamari on <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn site of Mesa Vouno. On <strong>to</strong>p of this mountain at <strong>the</strong> end of<br />

<strong>the</strong> 19th century were discovered <strong>the</strong> ruins of a city, known as Ancient Thira. Also an ancient<br />

cemetery stretching <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west from Ancient Thira <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong> mountain of Profitis Ilias was<br />

excavated <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Ancient Thira is <strong>the</strong> first known settlement established after <strong>the</strong> catastrophic eruption of <strong>the</strong><br />

volcano in 17th BC. For <strong>the</strong> next 500 years after this eruption <strong>the</strong> island remained uninhabited.<br />

The first people that arrived <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> abandoned island were presumably Spartans. They<br />

established <strong>the</strong>ir settlement on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of Mesa Vouno 385 m above <strong>the</strong> sea level and named it<br />

after <strong>the</strong>ir leader – Thira. It was also <strong>the</strong> first ancient capital of <strong>the</strong> island which held control<br />

over <strong>the</strong> six o<strong>the</strong>r settlements that were soon established on <strong>the</strong> island. Needless <strong>to</strong> say that<br />

Ancient Thira left firm trace of its existence not only in <strong>the</strong> island’s administration, but also<br />

in its…official name.<br />

Excavations on <strong>the</strong> foot of Mesa Vouno, in <strong>the</strong> NW part of <strong>the</strong> village of Kamari had been<br />

initiated in 19th century and brought <strong>to</strong> light remainders of an ancient settlement and its<br />

cemetery. His<strong>to</strong>ry of this settlement, called Ancient Oia, goes back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 8th BC. The best<br />

known in Kamari sign of its existence is so called “kamara” <strong>to</strong> which <strong>the</strong> village owes its<br />

name. “Kamara” is a monumental arch, partly built and partly dug in <strong>the</strong> rock. Presumably in<br />

ancient times this place was cus<strong>to</strong>m where merchant ships were arriving <strong>to</strong> pay taxes. There<br />

is no doubt that Ancient Oia was <strong>the</strong><br />

harbor of Ancient Thira.<br />

In one of <strong>the</strong> caves of Mesa Vouno<br />

on side of Kamari, is a real rarity of<br />

this island – a natural spring of sweet<br />

water.<br />

The spring is duly called <strong>the</strong> Fountain<br />

of Life (Zoodochos Pigi). At <strong>the</strong><br />

entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cave is a church by<br />

<strong>the</strong> same name. The church was built<br />

between years 1825-34. The spring is<br />

located 190 m above <strong>the</strong> sea level.<br />

Worth paying attention is also <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Panagia Mirtidiotissa by <strong>the</strong>


entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake army<br />

services built in Kamari rows<br />

of small stables (Greek: stavli),<br />

small shelters for animals that<br />

were held <strong>the</strong>re until <strong>the</strong> farmer’s<br />

possessions were res<strong>to</strong>red.<br />

Now, more than 50 years after<br />

<strong>the</strong> earthquake, Kamari offers<br />

everything that is needed <strong>to</strong><br />

spend an unforgotten summer<br />

on San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The Black beach of Kamari is<br />

covered <strong>with</strong> pebbles. Water is<br />

crystal-clear here and <strong>the</strong> beach-front is well organized and offers <strong>to</strong>p-quality bathing. Scubadiving,<br />

wind-surfing, jet-ski is just some of <strong>the</strong> pleasures waiting for <strong>the</strong> most adventurous.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> main road, at <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> Kamari is <strong>the</strong> church of Panagia Mirtidiotissa. If you<br />

follow <strong>the</strong> road up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountain you will find <strong>the</strong> route <strong>to</strong> Ancient Thira. From Kamari this<br />

is a quite comfortable way, also available for cars. You are welcome <strong>to</strong> use <strong>the</strong> BLUE Line<br />

Smart Bus that can take you <strong>the</strong>re and back.<br />

A walk <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of Mesa Vouno takes approximately 40 minutes. Keep in mind that Ancient<br />

Thira is open for visits from 8:00 <strong>to</strong> 14.30, closed on Mondays. From <strong>the</strong> parking area at <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> mountain <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> entrance of excavations leads a trail that now and again is quite<br />

difficult, especially in hot summer days. There is a mini shop on <strong>the</strong> parking area where water<br />

and snacks are sold. If you have no water <strong>with</strong> you, it is good place and time <strong>to</strong> get some,<br />

because <strong>the</strong>re will be no such possibility after you get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> excavation site. There is no<br />

entrance fee. The site is about 800 m long but not its entire area is available for sightseeing.<br />

Just by <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> Ancient Thira you encounter <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Stefanos which is<br />

<strong>the</strong> oldest church on this island. From this point <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ruins of <strong>the</strong> ancient city you will need<br />

10-15 minutes up <strong>the</strong> hill. Whilst visiting <strong>the</strong> excavations have a look also down <strong>the</strong> mountain.<br />

Kamari is stretching on its north side and Perissa<br />

on <strong>the</strong> south. On <strong>the</strong> return you can ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

descend back <strong>to</strong> Kamari (by bus or on foot), or<br />

walk down <strong>to</strong> Perissa. The trail requires sport<br />

shoes but is very picturesque. It takes about 20<br />

minutes <strong>to</strong> go down <strong>to</strong> Perissa.<br />

Also <strong>the</strong> descent on foot <strong>to</strong> Kamari takes less<br />

time than <strong>the</strong> way up, one more proof that<br />

everything is relative…<br />

Near <strong>the</strong> street descending <strong>to</strong> Kamari you can<br />

find trail <strong>to</strong> Zoodochos Pigi (Lifegiving). The<br />

trail begins behind <strong>the</strong> second curve of <strong>the</strong><br />

street counting from Ancient Thira. Much easier<br />

though is <strong>to</strong> find <strong>the</strong> trail from <strong>the</strong> Kamari village.<br />

It begins behind <strong>the</strong> Antinea Hotel. The spring is<br />

in a shallow cave and you will have no problems<br />

finding it. From <strong>the</strong>re you can climb up <strong>the</strong> stairs<br />

and go along <strong>the</strong> slope of Mesa Vouno; this trail<br />

<strong>with</strong>out mistake will take you in <strong>the</strong> vicinity of<br />

Ancient Thira.<br />

Remnants of Ancient Oia can be found on <strong>the</strong><br />

43


sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost part of Kamari beach,<br />

by <strong>the</strong> mountain. Ancient “kamara” is<br />

carved on <strong>the</strong> foot of Mesa Vouno.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> earthquake of 1956<br />

most of farmers from Mesa Gonia<br />

moved that time <strong>to</strong> Kamari <strong>to</strong> settle<br />

down <strong>the</strong>re. Rows of shelters for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

animals (so called “stavli”) were built<br />

<strong>to</strong> temporarily keep <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong>re, until<br />

new barns are fixed. The shelters are<br />

located near <strong>the</strong> football field, opposite<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kamari Tours Transfer Office.<br />

Kamari has also two cinemas, one<br />

at <strong>the</strong> square and o<strong>the</strong>r some 200 m<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> village (open-air), on <strong>the</strong><br />

road <strong>to</strong>wards Fira. Across <strong>the</strong> street<br />

you can play mini-billards. When you<br />

continue <strong>to</strong> walk along <strong>the</strong> main street<br />

you will approach Episkopi Gonias, Byzantine church of <strong>the</strong> 12th century. To get <strong>the</strong>re follow<br />

<strong>the</strong> signpost by <strong>the</strong> road or turn up behind <strong>the</strong> gas-station.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Ancient Thira: on foot - 40-45 minutes up, 30 minutes down, visiting <strong>the</strong> site: 1 hr at least<br />

Zoodochos Pigi – 20 minutes one way from Antinea.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

There are a countless number of various taverns and restaurants, by <strong>the</strong> sea side and away<br />

from it, more or less noisy and more or less romantic, serving Greek food, Chinese, Indian and<br />

more. There are also cafeterias, grill-bars, creperies, pizzerias…You are in danger of starvation<br />

if you are not able <strong>to</strong> make decision in this wide assortment. Worth visiting are taverns at<br />

<strong>the</strong> south end of <strong>the</strong> Black Beach, like Zorbas or Atmosphere picturesquely located near <strong>the</strong><br />

Kamari Tours Office. International cuisine is served in Mythos tavern while traditional meals<br />

are offered in Salivaros.<br />

In Kamari <strong>the</strong>re is no problem <strong>to</strong> buy almost anything you wish, from souvenirs, art items,<br />

books, clo<strong>the</strong>s and shoe, <strong>to</strong>urist items <strong>to</strong><br />

cameras, memory cards, even volcanic<br />

candles. The s<strong>to</strong>res are spread along <strong>the</strong><br />

beach and all over <strong>the</strong> city.<br />

Lithos jewellery s<strong>to</strong>re you will find on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach, next <strong>to</strong> Kamari Tours office.<br />

Vic<strong>to</strong>ria Furs & Lea<strong>the</strong>r S<strong>to</strong>re is located<br />

down <strong>the</strong> street from Ag. Nektarios church<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Nearest spot of interest at <strong>the</strong> walking<br />

distance:<br />

Perissa – 1hr walk across Mesa Vouno.<br />

Ancient Thira, Zoodochos Pigi.<br />

Episkopi Gonias – 2 km from Kamari.<br />

44


ACNCIENT THIRA<br />

7 5<br />

KAMARI<br />

1. KAMARI TOURS TRANSFER OFFICE<br />

2. PHARMACY<br />

3. BOOKSTORE, CINEMA<br />

4. AG. NEKTARIOS<br />

5. PANAGIA MIRTIDIOTISSA<br />

6. KAMARI TOURS MAIN OFFICE<br />

7. ANCIENT KAMARA<br />

8. ZOODOCHOS PIGI<br />

9. ANCIENT THIRA STREET<br />

4<br />

8<br />

KAMARI BEACH<br />

9<br />

45


46<br />

SILIA<br />

Cafe - Restaurant – Pool Bar<br />

Kamari San<strong>to</strong>rini Greece<br />

Tel, fax 22860 34122<br />

Email siliabar@otenet.gr<br />

LITHOS JEWLLERY<br />

Kamari & Oia Kamari Tel: 22860 31390 198<br />

Oia Tel: 22860 71000<br />

ELEMENT<br />

Επιλεγμένα Κοσμήματα από χρυσό και<br />

ασήμι, τουριστικά είδη και έντεχνα<br />

δημιουργήματα<br />

Kamari – San<strong>to</strong>rini (κεντρική πλατεία)<br />

22860 31190


AMALTHIA<br />

Kamari, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

PRINCE<br />

Kamari San<strong>to</strong>rini Tel: 22860 33122<br />

www.prince-barrestaurant.com<br />

ZORBAS TAVERN<br />

Manager: GOTSIS ANTONIO<br />

KAMARI, SANTORINI<br />

Mob: 6973741470<br />

47


48<br />

MYTHOS BAR<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Tel: 22860 32760<br />

Travel ... <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> taste… and<br />

enjoy different dishes and<br />

wines from all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Tel: 22860 31368


PERISSA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: in front of <strong>the</strong> Kamari Tours office (next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> tavern Kyklades), about<br />

250 m from <strong>the</strong> main square.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

The south-east coast of San<strong>to</strong>rini, located on <strong>the</strong> foot of Mesa Vouno is of special interest <strong>to</strong> all<br />

who love leisure at <strong>the</strong> seaside. Approximately 4 km of organized black sandy beach remains<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir disposal. The sea is clear and <strong>the</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m has an interesting, volcanic form - shallow<br />

and slippery by <strong>the</strong> shore, where are prowling many Mediterranean fishes, suddenly drops in<strong>to</strong><br />

dark depth of <strong>the</strong> sea. The summer adventure begins in Perissa!<br />

Excavations conducted in <strong>the</strong> 19th century indicated that Perissa was built on <strong>the</strong> site of <strong>the</strong><br />

ancient city of Eleusina. At times of Hellenistic rule on this island (4th <strong>to</strong> 2nd centuries BC)<br />

<strong>the</strong> port of Eleusina was located at cape Exomitis (south from Perissa). The ancient settlement,<br />

according <strong>to</strong> information provided by archeological research, was abandoned around 7th<br />

century AD.<br />

In Perissa is located <strong>the</strong> church of Holy Cross (Timiou Stavrou) which is <strong>the</strong> biggest church<br />

of <strong>the</strong> island. Its five blue domes are visible from <strong>the</strong> public road leading <strong>to</strong> Perissa. The<br />

church was built in <strong>the</strong> 19th century. Originally its interior was covered all over <strong>with</strong> beautiful<br />

wall-paintings. Most of <strong>the</strong>m did not survive <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake. In Perissa <strong>the</strong>re was also<br />

excavated an old Christian basilica of Aghia Irini (6th century), <strong>the</strong> island’s patron saint.<br />

Santa (Aghia) Irini died here on exhale in <strong>the</strong> 4th century AD. They were Crusaders who at<br />

<strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> 13th century started calling <strong>the</strong> island after its patron. Thus Thera became<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

Perissa underwent its rapid development <strong>with</strong>in <strong>the</strong> past 30 years and is a good example of<br />

“<strong>to</strong>uristic metamorphosis”. Until mid-seventieth San<strong>to</strong>rini was a quiet, unknown island lost<br />

somewhere in <strong>the</strong> Cyclades. Perissa was a green, almost deserted land. A couple of houses<br />

scattered here and <strong>the</strong>re and <strong>the</strong> church of Holy Cross were <strong>the</strong> only signs of life here. From 1970<br />

<strong>the</strong> significance of San<strong>to</strong>rini as a <strong>to</strong>urist destination increased dramatically. To accommodate<br />

<strong>the</strong> constantly increasing influx of<br />

<strong>to</strong>urists, new hotels have sprung<br />

up like mushrooms after <strong>the</strong> rain.<br />

Putative economical profits offered<br />

by new industry attracted also locals,<br />

and soon number of permanent<br />

residents doubled.<br />

Today’s Perissa is a well known<br />

summer resort, offering sandy black<br />

beach, summer sports, a bunch<br />

of souvenir shops, bakeries and<br />

mini markets scattered all along<br />

<strong>the</strong> village. The blue domes of <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Holly Cross are not any<br />

49


50<br />

more alone. They sink in <strong>the</strong> sea of<br />

white houses and hotels.<br />

Perissa is a lively place during summer.<br />

The square of Perissa is <strong>the</strong> focus for<br />

main attractions of <strong>the</strong> village apart<br />

from <strong>the</strong> beach: The church of Holy<br />

Cross, Basilica of Aghia Irini, <strong>the</strong><br />

Museum of Minerals and Fossils<br />

and it is also a good starting point <strong>to</strong><br />

explore Ancient Thira on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of<br />

Mesa Vouno.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The black, sandy beach of Perissa is<br />

a temptation in all its length. The beach is equipped in every amenity you need <strong>to</strong> spend<br />

unforgotten and relaxing day. You may have a problem <strong>to</strong> choose among numerous lively<br />

beach bars. The general rule is that if you order something in a beach bar, you can have an<br />

umbrella at your disposal all day long <strong>with</strong>out any additional charge. O<strong>the</strong>rwise you may<br />

be asked <strong>to</strong> pay around 7 Euro per umbrella. If you are looking for a quieter place, <strong>with</strong>out<br />

umbrellas and beach bars in <strong>the</strong> nearest proximity, <strong>the</strong>re is a chance you will find it near <strong>the</strong><br />

mountain. This part of <strong>the</strong> beach is called by <strong>the</strong> locals Kolata. If it is not satisfying, you will<br />

have <strong>to</strong> undertake a 3 km walk along <strong>the</strong> beach <strong>to</strong> Perivolos.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> beach are operating two diving centers, you will find also a water park nearby. Scubadiving,<br />

water ski, parachuting, windsurfing, jet-ski are at your disposal on <strong>the</strong> beach. In Perissa<br />

you can also try horse-riding.<br />

Have also a stroll <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> square of Perissa. Here you will find <strong>the</strong> big church of Holy Cross.<br />

Some 50 m behind <strong>the</strong> church, at <strong>the</strong> foot of Mesa Vouno, are <strong>the</strong> ruins of Basilica of Aghia<br />

Irini. While at <strong>the</strong> square, step by <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> small Museum of Minerals and Fossils, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

church of <strong>the</strong> Holy Cross. On exhibition are fossils found on San<strong>to</strong>rini, which are estimated<br />

<strong>to</strong> be from 50 thousand <strong>to</strong> 1.5 billion years old! The museum is open from 10:00 <strong>to</strong> 14:00<br />

everyday.<br />

Option for <strong>to</strong>ugh hikers: From <strong>the</strong> square leads a street <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong> mountain. If you follow<br />

it for <strong>the</strong> next 200 m you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> signpost for Ancient Thira. You can venture a walk<br />

up <strong>the</strong>re. The footpath from Perissa is quite steep. During hot summer days it may be quite<br />

exhausting, especially if you are not used <strong>to</strong> mountaineering. You need about 40 minutes <strong>to</strong><br />

get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p, and because <strong>the</strong> excavation area is closed after 14.30, you must start before<br />

noon.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> excavations <strong>the</strong>re is a church of Aghios Stefanos, <strong>the</strong> oldest church on<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini, dated <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 5th century.<br />

From here <strong>the</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r 10-15<br />

minutes walk <strong>to</strong> get up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient<br />

city. It may seem difficult, but consider<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y were Spartans who founded<br />

this settlement!<br />

About one third of <strong>the</strong> way <strong>to</strong> Ancient<br />

Thira or just 10 minutes away from <strong>the</strong><br />

foot of <strong>the</strong> mountain where you have<br />

started climbing it up, <strong>the</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

footway stretching <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east. This<br />

leads <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Panagia Katefiani.<br />

The church is built on <strong>the</strong> steep slope of


Mesa Vouno and is visible from a distance as a white<br />

spot in <strong>the</strong> middle of <strong>the</strong> mountain. Behind <strong>the</strong> church<br />

are caves. In medieval times this place offered refuge<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> islanders during pirate attacks. It was also a<br />

refuge during so called “time of Evil” or in o<strong>the</strong>r words<br />

- terrible eruption of <strong>the</strong> volcano Koloumbo in 1650.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

<strong>Sightseeing</strong> is actually limited <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> square and as<br />

such does not require more that 20-30 minutes.<br />

You will need 50 minutes <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> excavations at<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of Mesa Vouno. Return from <strong>the</strong>re takes 20-25<br />

minutes.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

Perissa and Perivolos are <strong>the</strong> best places on San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

<strong>to</strong> have something really traditional <strong>to</strong> eat. Numerous<br />

taverns offer a variety of meals, also international<br />

cuisine, for reasonable prices and <strong>with</strong>out additional<br />

charge for a sea view. However, if you are fed up <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>the</strong>re is also a variety of<br />

restaurants along <strong>the</strong> public road.<br />

Local wine you can get from a handler that is occupying <strong>the</strong> shade by <strong>the</strong> beach road, near<br />

<strong>the</strong> mountain.<br />

Fruits and vegetables from family business you can get some 200 m fur<strong>the</strong>r on, also on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach road. At mini-markets you can ask for local wine from barrels. It is poured in in<strong>to</strong><br />

plastic water-bottles at sale.<br />

There are markets and souvenir shops at <strong>the</strong> square, also along <strong>the</strong> main road. A bakery<br />

offering a wide assortment of fresh breads and pitas is about 1 km from <strong>the</strong> square, by <strong>the</strong><br />

public road. Just behind it you will find supermarket and post office.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Ancient Thira – 50 minutes, opening hours 8:00-14:30, Mondays closed.<br />

Panagia Katefiani – 40 minutes <strong>to</strong> and back.<br />

Perivolos – about 20 minutes walk along <strong>the</strong> beach, starting from <strong>the</strong> foot of Mesa Vouno.<br />

THE BEACH BAR<br />

Perissa, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

51


52<br />

PERISSA BEACH<br />

6<br />

5<br />

3<br />

PERISSA<br />

1. SUPER MARKET , POST OFFICE , BAKERY<br />

2. KAMARI TOURS OFFICE<br />

3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS<br />

4. MUSEUM OF MINERALS AND FOSSILS<br />

5. BASILICA OF SANTA IRINI (EXCAVATIONS)<br />

6. PANAGIA KATEFIANI


FOINIKAS<br />

Perissa, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 83300<br />

PERIVOLOS<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. Crossroads up from Mera Beach Bar, close <strong>to</strong> windmill.<br />

2. On <strong>the</strong> crossroads 100 m up from <strong>the</strong> old <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Perivolos is an extension of black sandy beach that begins in Perissa. Like Perissa, <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

is organized, not so crowded though. Along <strong>the</strong> beach you will find a variety of shops, mostly<br />

<strong>with</strong> beach items, beach bars and taverns. It offers also a wide range of water sports and beach<br />

volleyball. The sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost part of Perivolos beach is called Agios Giorgos. This is <strong>the</strong> most<br />

remote part of black beach, completely wild and quiet. The ancient port of Eleusina links<br />

Perivolos <strong>with</strong> Vlychada.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

If you spend your vacation on San<strong>to</strong>rini at <strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> season, <strong>the</strong>re is good chance<br />

that from a short walk along <strong>the</strong> beach you will return <strong>with</strong> hand-fulls of colorful scallops.<br />

Later on it will be much easier <strong>to</strong> collect pumice s<strong>to</strong>nes…<br />

By <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn end of Perivolos you will find an old <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry. It is easy <strong>to</strong> distinguish<br />

because of its long chimney. From <strong>the</strong> 19th till mid 20th century <strong>the</strong>re were 13 such fac<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

operating on San<strong>to</strong>rini. They were producing world-wide renowned <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> pasta from small<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es.<br />

Behind <strong>the</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry a road leads in land. If you follow it for <strong>the</strong> next 2 km you will get <strong>to</strong><br />

Emporio. If you do not wish <strong>to</strong> go <strong>the</strong>re, but still want have a walk, turn left at <strong>the</strong> crossroads<br />

53


<strong>to</strong> approach <strong>the</strong> hill. On its<br />

slopes here and <strong>the</strong>re you will<br />

see carved arches. These are<br />

remnants of ancient port of<br />

Eleusina, founded by P<strong>to</strong>lemies<br />

(4-2 century BC). Follow <strong>the</strong><br />

footway along <strong>the</strong> mountain. By<br />

<strong>the</strong> end of this trail is an ancient<br />

<strong>to</strong>mb which you can see close.<br />

The footway is about 1 km long<br />

and leads <strong>to</strong> Vlychada, so that<br />

you can go <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> beach and chill<br />

down in <strong>the</strong> crystal clear sea<br />

waters of Vlychada.<br />

Estimated time for<br />

sightseeing:<br />

With a good wea<strong>the</strong>r you can spend all day on <strong>the</strong> beach, enjoying it. The walk along Eleusina<br />

does not require more than 15 minutes, but getting <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong> crossroads is ano<strong>the</strong>r 10<br />

minutes or so.<br />

Walk <strong>to</strong> Emborio takes about 30 minutes.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and<br />

do shopping:<br />

On <strong>the</strong> beach front <strong>the</strong>re are many taverns serving Greek and international food.<br />

Mini-markets are spread all along <strong>the</strong> sea front <strong>to</strong>o. Do not look for sophisticated souvenir<br />

s<strong>to</strong>res here, for <strong>the</strong>se you would ra<strong>the</strong>r go <strong>to</strong> Perissa. If you turn in<strong>to</strong> one narrow streets<br />

leading in land you have chance <strong>to</strong> find locals selling by <strong>the</strong> road traditional products from<br />

family business.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Perissa: E along <strong>the</strong> coast Emporio – 2 km N<br />

54<br />

TAVERNA PERIVOLOS<br />

Perivolos, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 82007


PERIVOLOS AND VLYCHADA<br />

1. MERA BEACH BAR<br />

2. SALTY BEACH CLUB<br />

3. POPEYE TAVERN<br />

4. NOTOS SPA<br />

5. OLD TOMATO PASTA FACTORY<br />

5<br />

ANCIENT ELEUSINA<br />

55<br />

DUNES IN VLYCHADA


56<br />

VLYCHADA AND EXOMITIS<br />

Map – see Perivolos.<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. On <strong>the</strong> crossroads, on <strong>the</strong> way <strong>to</strong> Paradisos tavern at Exomitis.<br />

2. In <strong>the</strong> village, in front of <strong>the</strong> old <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Vlychada is a small village and its inhabitants are mainly fishermen. Black sandy beach of<br />

Vlychada is a SW extension of Perivolos, no more than 2 km away from it. The pumice dunes<br />

fantastically sculptured by <strong>the</strong> wind are unusually picturesque. The beach is quiet but remains<br />

in proximity of Limanaki – <strong>the</strong> port of Vlychada, full of small boats floating one by ano<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

The attraction of <strong>the</strong> spot is <strong>the</strong> old <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry. At <strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> 20th century such<br />

<strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ries played significant role in <strong>the</strong> island’s industry. “Thera style <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> pasta”<br />

was well recognized and desired worldwide due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> unique taste of San<strong>to</strong>rini’s <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es.<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es (called also baby <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es or <strong>to</strong>matakia) have an unusual sweet taste; this<br />

is due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> lack of water during <strong>the</strong>ir vegetation. At <strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> 20th century <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

cultivation was more profitable than <strong>the</strong> production of wines!<br />

In Vlychada you will also find a picturesque windmill overlooking <strong>the</strong> Limanaki.<br />

Vlychada’s is located at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost cap of San<strong>to</strong>rini, called Exomitis. In ancient times<br />

P<strong>to</strong>lemies set <strong>the</strong>ir naval base, Eleusina, in<br />

this area.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The first <strong>SMART</strong> Bus s<strong>to</strong>p is some distance<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Vlychada port. Follow <strong>the</strong> sign <strong>to</strong><br />

Paradisos Tavern. Here is actually Exomitis<br />

– <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost cap of San<strong>to</strong>rini. Here<br />

you can have a fresh fish for lunch. There is<br />

no passage <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Limanaki along <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

To get <strong>the</strong>re you have ei<strong>the</strong>r take a bus or <strong>to</strong><br />

walk some 500 m along <strong>the</strong> street.<br />

Vlychada has <strong>to</strong> offer a picturesque black<br />

beach, at some distance from <strong>the</strong> Limanaki.<br />

Over <strong>the</strong>re you can hire a boat that will<br />

take you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> red and white beaches of<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini, which are located more <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

west from Vlychada


If you want <strong>to</strong> have a break<br />

from <strong>the</strong> beach, take a walk<br />

along <strong>the</strong> street next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry. The street<br />

up from <strong>the</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry is about<br />

1.5 km long and leads <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> main road connecting<br />

Megalochori <strong>with</strong> Emporio. It<br />

is really scenic road. You can<br />

admire <strong>the</strong> hills, unusually<br />

sculptured by winds, from<br />

<strong>the</strong> windows of <strong>the</strong> <strong>SMART</strong><br />

bus. Some people call it<br />

lunar landscape. It makes<br />

an impression and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are numerous hyposkafa<br />

(caves) hidden in <strong>the</strong> rocks.<br />

The street runs along Hill of<br />

Gavrilos (on <strong>the</strong> right side)<br />

and before it ends you will be able <strong>to</strong> count if <strong>the</strong>re are still 8 old windmills standing <strong>the</strong>re…<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Depending how long you wish <strong>to</strong> stay on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do<br />

shopping:<br />

In Vlychada you should not have a problem <strong>to</strong> get fresh fish. Fish taverns are along <strong>the</strong> road,<br />

and you can eat watching <strong>the</strong> sea from above <strong>the</strong>re. First <strong>SMART</strong> bus s<strong>to</strong>p some 500 m before<br />

<strong>the</strong> harbor is near fish tavern Paradisos at Exomitis. Trail along Eleusina ends in front of <strong>the</strong><br />

tavern Merula.<br />

Dimitris and Fillipos tavern are located in Vlychada overlooking <strong>the</strong> Limanaki, down on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach <strong>the</strong>re is also <strong>the</strong> Limanaki Tavern.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Perivolos and ancient Eleusina – 1.5-2 km NE (follow <strong>the</strong> road <strong>to</strong>wards Por<strong>to</strong> Villa)<br />

AKROTIRI & RED BEACH<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. Akrotiri Village – at <strong>the</strong> main square, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mini-market.<br />

2. Akrotiri Excavation Site – <strong>the</strong> parking area opposite <strong>to</strong> excavations, which is approx.<br />

400 m away from <strong>the</strong> Red Beach.<br />

57


Brief characteristics:<br />

In Middle Ages Akrotiri was one of <strong>the</strong><br />

five fortified settlements on San<strong>to</strong>rini,<br />

financially <strong>the</strong> weakest one but <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

is also that for a long time Akrotiri was<br />

leading in <strong>the</strong> production of cot<strong>to</strong>n. In<br />

his<strong>to</strong>rical times <strong>the</strong> Kasteli of Akrotiri (also<br />

called Punta) was a vast structure inhabited<br />

by around 200 families. It has existed since<br />

<strong>the</strong> early 14th century. Originally it had<br />

two watch-<strong>to</strong>wers (goulades): one was at<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of kasteli and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r one situated<br />

outside it. Time and earthquakes did not<br />

spare <strong>the</strong> fortification. Goulas in <strong>the</strong> kasteli<br />

did not <strong>with</strong>stand <strong>the</strong> terrible earthquake,<br />

and currently only <strong>the</strong> square-shaped base can be merely distinguished among o<strong>the</strong>r ruins.<br />

For those who are interested in his<strong>to</strong>ry, Akrotiri is known as a place of significant excavations.<br />

An ancient settlement, more than 3500 years old was brought <strong>to</strong> light from a long sleep from<br />

under a thick layer of volcanic ash. Surprisingly well preserved houses and equipment are<br />

silent witnesses of one of <strong>the</strong> most dramatic volcanic eruptions known in <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong><br />

Earth. This his<strong>to</strong>ry has its roots in 17th century BC. Until that time San<strong>to</strong>rini was a circular<br />

island called Stroggili (Greek: stroggilos=round). At <strong>the</strong> site of <strong>to</strong>day’s Akrotiri was well<br />

developed Minoan civilization. The terrible eruption of <strong>the</strong> volcano located in <strong>the</strong> center of<br />

<strong>the</strong> island put an end <strong>to</strong> life on Stroggili. More than half of <strong>the</strong> island collapsed and sunk<br />

in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> seas waters. The ancient city got buried under volcanic ash. At some spots <strong>the</strong> layer<br />

of volcanic ash is more than 30 m thick! Wide-scale excavations started in 1967 by Spiros<br />

Marina<strong>to</strong>s who brought <strong>to</strong> light a surprisingly well preserved ancient settlement of houses<br />

decorated <strong>with</strong> outstanding wall-paintings. The inhabitants probably managed <strong>to</strong> escape from<br />

<strong>the</strong> island before <strong>the</strong> hell of <strong>the</strong> volcano’s eruption because so far no human bodies have been<br />

found. Almost complete lack of jewellery and <strong>to</strong>ols suggests that <strong>the</strong>y had enough time <strong>to</strong><br />

organize <strong>the</strong>ir escape.<br />

The splendid collection of findings from <strong>the</strong> site is <strong>to</strong> be seen in <strong>the</strong> Museum of Prehis<strong>to</strong>ric<br />

Thera in Fira, open everyday except Mondays. Also life-size reproductions of wall-paintings<br />

are exhibited in Petros Nomikos Conference Centre<br />

in Firostefani, by <strong>the</strong> exit from Fira.For <strong>the</strong> leisure<br />

visi<strong>to</strong>rs Akrotiri means also Red Beach, one of <strong>the</strong><br />

most fascinating beaches of San<strong>to</strong>rini, where <strong>the</strong> red<br />

cliffs meat <strong>the</strong> crystal clear blue sea...<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The small square of Akrotiri is your starting point.<br />

Pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Epifanios. It has<br />

very nice courtyard and actually covers most of <strong>the</strong><br />

square area. Follow a narrow street named after<br />

Dimitris Roussos. Kasteli is on your right side.<br />

Choose one of <strong>the</strong> passages leading up <strong>the</strong>re. The<br />

distances are very short. The entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kasteli<br />

is an arch-shaped gate. Be prepared for some more<br />

steep and narrow steps. You are almost at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p.<br />

The white-washed church <strong>with</strong> light illuminations<br />

stretched around it is Ypapanti, also called Panagia<br />

Flevarotissa. Originally on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of kasteli was<br />

standing <strong>the</strong> church of Aghia Triada (Holy Trinity).<br />

58


However it turned in<strong>to</strong> ruins and a new<br />

church had <strong>to</strong> be built. Remnants of<br />

Aghia Triada are hard <strong>to</strong> distinguish<br />

among o<strong>the</strong>r ruins around Ypapanti.<br />

Ypapanti was built from <strong>the</strong> expenses<br />

of one of Akrotiri’s residents and is now<br />

in his private possession. It used <strong>to</strong> be<br />

open for visits, but after <strong>the</strong> robbery of<br />

3 most precious icons from <strong>the</strong> church<br />

collection, Ypapanti is now closed. It<br />

only opens for big celebrations.<br />

While descending from <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p, pass <strong>the</strong><br />

arched gate and keep going straight on<br />

<strong>the</strong> west so that you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Aghia Theodosia. Aghia Theodosia is<br />

patron of <strong>the</strong> kastelia from Byzantine times. The church is relatively big. Its blue dome is well<br />

visible from <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of kasteli. Its bell-<strong>to</strong>wer partly collapsed after <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake and<br />

has not been fixed <strong>the</strong>reafter.<br />

Continue your walk along <strong>the</strong> street, be prepared for more steps. About 50 m behind <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Aghia Theodosia <strong>the</strong>re is stairway turning left. Follow it. Now you get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> part of<br />

<strong>the</strong> settlement dominated by cave houses, so do not miss it. This is worth <strong>the</strong> effort. Actually<br />

it is only 5 minutes <strong>to</strong> go from <strong>the</strong> church of Aghia Theodosia.<br />

On your return you will have no problem <strong>to</strong> find <strong>the</strong> Roussou St. that will take you back <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> square.<br />

For <strong>to</strong>ugh hikers: If you want <strong>to</strong> walk near <strong>the</strong> excavations site or have a swim at <strong>the</strong> Red<br />

Beach you have <strong>to</strong> go roughly 1.5 km down from <strong>the</strong> village (or wait for <strong>the</strong> next <strong>SMART</strong><br />

bus). Behind <strong>the</strong> square, next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mini-market, <strong>the</strong>re is a Spiros Marina<strong>to</strong>s street. If you<br />

follow it you will get near <strong>the</strong> sea shore. Excavations are behind <strong>the</strong> fence that is stretching<br />

along <strong>the</strong> road. The entrance gate is facing <strong>the</strong> sea. Excavations are currently closed for public;<br />

it will reopen as soon as <strong>the</strong> new canopy protecting <strong>the</strong> site is fixed.<br />

From excavation site <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Red Beach you can get ei<strong>the</strong>r following <strong>the</strong> street turning behind<br />

<strong>the</strong> parking or going along <strong>the</strong> sea. No more than 10 minutes away is little church of St.<br />

Nicolas, just by <strong>the</strong> rocks.<br />

Red Beach is behind <strong>the</strong> rock. The trail is not very long, but is covered <strong>with</strong> pebbles, that can<br />

severely influence your stability. Good shoes are a good idea here but even <strong>the</strong>n you are under<br />

risk of landing on <strong>the</strong> beach head over heels or in some o<strong>the</strong>r unorthodox way…<br />

The organized beach is at some distance from <strong>the</strong> place where you left <strong>the</strong> trail and <strong>to</strong>uched<br />

more stable ground. You may need 10 more minutes <strong>to</strong> snake among rocks and s<strong>to</strong>nes that<br />

are spread all over <strong>the</strong>re. Maybe for this reason some people decide <strong>to</strong> stay where <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

and watch <strong>the</strong> organized beach from <strong>the</strong><br />

distance. Look at <strong>the</strong> porous red pebbles<br />

under your feet and think of <strong>the</strong> volcano<br />

that has expelled <strong>the</strong>m from its depth<br />

thousands of years ago, burying <strong>the</strong><br />

ancient city of Akrotiri and sending <strong>the</strong><br />

greater part of <strong>the</strong> island under <strong>the</strong> seas<br />

waters…<br />

To make your life easier you can rent a<br />

boat from Akrotiri that will take you <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Red and even <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> White Beach.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Within 30 minutes you will easily<br />

59


60<br />

3<br />

2<br />

1<br />

4<br />

AKROTIRI & RED BEACH<br />

1. AG. EPIFANIOS<br />

2. AG. TRIADA / GOULAS<br />

3. AG. THEODOSIA<br />

4. ENTRANCE TO KASTELI<br />

5. AG. NICOLAS<br />

RED BEACH


explore <strong>the</strong> Akrotiri village (escapade<br />

<strong>to</strong> Red beach not included…).<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

By <strong>the</strong> square and along <strong>the</strong> street<br />

you will find cafeteria, taverns also<br />

fish tavern at <strong>the</strong> very entrance <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> village. Taverns are also by <strong>the</strong><br />

sea shore and on this part of <strong>the</strong> road<br />

which leads from excavations <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

church of Aghios Nicolas.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> mini-market on <strong>the</strong> square you<br />

can get San<strong>to</strong>rini fava-beans, <strong>to</strong>matakia<br />

and local wines.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Red Beach - about 1.5 km (<strong>the</strong> same direction as <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> excavations)<br />

SANTORINI DIVE CENTER<br />

Easy access <strong>to</strong> alkl caldera dive spots<br />

from our caldera dive station<br />

(San<strong>to</strong>rini)<br />

Perissa & Akrotiri, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 83190<br />

www.divecenter.gr<br />

PANORAMA<br />

Cafι-Restaurant<br />

Manager:<br />

Maria Karamolegos<br />

Akrotiri, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 81183<br />

Mob: 6972 484236<br />

61


62<br />

MEGALOCHORI<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

1. North end: <strong>SMART</strong> bus s<strong>to</strong>p is on <strong>the</strong> main road, by <strong>the</strong> north entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village (near<br />

<strong>the</strong> bakery), <strong>the</strong> same place both for routes <strong>to</strong> San<strong>to</strong> Wines and <strong>to</strong> Akrotiri.<br />

2. South-western end:<br />

- routes <strong>to</strong> Akrotiri: on <strong>the</strong> main road, by <strong>the</strong> crossing <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong> Boutari Winery.<br />

- routes <strong>to</strong> San<strong>to</strong> Wines: on <strong>the</strong> opposite side of <strong>the</strong> road, by <strong>the</strong> front yard of <strong>the</strong> pottery<br />

studio.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

An extremely charming traditional settlement. Before you start <strong>the</strong> feast for your eyes, pay a<br />

visit <strong>to</strong> a bakery-pastry shop, up by <strong>the</strong> road. Get some traditional Greek sweets and <strong>the</strong>n you<br />

are ready for sightseeing.<br />

Do not be mislead by its name (Greek: Megalo Chorio = Big Village), <strong>the</strong> name does not refer<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> size but <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> wealthy past of <strong>the</strong> settlement. The fact is that in winter no more than<br />

200 people stay <strong>the</strong>re, in summer this number may double. Most of <strong>the</strong>m are farmers. The<br />

village is actually surrounded by vineyards. Because of <strong>the</strong> dry and windy climate <strong>the</strong> harvest<br />

of grapes used <strong>to</strong> be low. To resolve <strong>the</strong> problem of low yields at least partially, farmers use<br />

an elaborated and unique method of culture. They fold <strong>the</strong> branches of vines giving <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong><br />

shape of a basket. This method protects <strong>the</strong> fruits from <strong>the</strong> burning sun and strong San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

winds. It also helps <strong>to</strong> keep <strong>the</strong> humidity collected by hydroscopic soil from <strong>the</strong> night air. This<br />

technique once used, lead <strong>to</strong> a significant increase in grape production and that’s why is used<br />

on San<strong>to</strong>rini unchanged since <strong>the</strong> 18th century!<br />

To make things even better, fields on San<strong>to</strong>rini are terraced, <strong>to</strong> protect <strong>the</strong> soil from wind erosion.<br />

Ironically, <strong>the</strong> harsh, dry climate of <strong>the</strong> island is not only its curse. It is also its blessing. Fruits<br />

grown here, due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> volcanic<br />

soil and limited amounts of water<br />

(actually, during <strong>the</strong>ir vegetation<br />

<strong>the</strong> plants are never watered,<br />

because <strong>the</strong>re are no rainfalls and<br />

<strong>the</strong> island is absolutely dry) <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have a very unique taste. San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

is famous not only for its wines,<br />

but also <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es, capers, splitpeas<br />

(fava) and white egg-plants,<br />

just <strong>to</strong> mention <strong>the</strong> most popular<br />

ones. Three well known wineries<br />

are operating in Megalochori. With<br />

all this Megalochori is a very quiet<br />

and neat place. While walking


along its main street, which<br />

is only 200 m long (<strong>the</strong> word<br />

“street” is an exaggeration)<br />

you may have impression<br />

that it is almost completely<br />

abandoned, especially during<br />

early afternoon hours. But<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are enough things <strong>to</strong> see<br />

and <strong>to</strong> admire on your way. So,<br />

do not hesitate, enter it!<br />

Strolling around:<br />

Your starting point – <strong>the</strong> north<br />

entrance:<br />

Before you proceed from <strong>the</strong><br />

square, where your adventure<br />

begins, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village street,<br />

have a close look at <strong>the</strong> vines.<br />

Their circular form will<br />

impress you.<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>r on, while already on <strong>the</strong> street, raise your head up <strong>to</strong> see pistachios, one of <strong>the</strong> most<br />

popular species of tree on this island.<br />

The black wall along <strong>the</strong> street is built from lava s<strong>to</strong>nes. Lava s<strong>to</strong>nes and circular branches of<br />

vines are widely used <strong>to</strong> decorate <strong>the</strong> walls around private possessions. Keep looking around<br />

<strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong>m on your way through Megalochori!<br />

About 50 m fur<strong>the</strong>r down <strong>the</strong> Sigala street (<strong>the</strong> main street), on its left side <strong>the</strong>re is a small<br />

ruined farmer’s house and a narrow footway just behind it. Follow it <strong>to</strong> see yellow archontiko<br />

and <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Ioannis just in front of it. After <strong>the</strong> death of <strong>the</strong> last member of<br />

<strong>the</strong> family owning it, <strong>the</strong> structure turned in<strong>to</strong> ruin. In times of its glory you could admire<br />

collection of old, precious icons in <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Continuing this way for ano<strong>the</strong>r 20-30 m you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> outer street of <strong>the</strong> village. Spend<br />

a couple of minutes <strong>to</strong> admire <strong>the</strong> fields around <strong>the</strong>re and take some shots of <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Aghios An<strong>to</strong>nios. That is <strong>the</strong> one <strong>with</strong> blue dome and ochre colored walls, picturesquely<br />

located among trees and flowers, down <strong>the</strong> field. If you are looking well, you will also discern<br />

<strong>the</strong> white washed walls of cave houses.<br />

Having your sense of beauty fully satisfied at this moment, turn right and follow <strong>the</strong> street<br />

Archiepiskopou Par<strong>the</strong>niou Akyla. While descending it <strong>to</strong>wards Sigala, you will pass next <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> big, whitewashed church of Aghia Anargyri. Two twin <strong>to</strong>wers of this church are named<br />

Kosma and Damian in honor of <strong>the</strong><br />

saint martyrs (inscriptions visible<br />

from <strong>the</strong> main street). Next <strong>to</strong> it <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is <strong>the</strong> church of Zoodochos Pigi,<br />

<strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> blue dome and picturesque<br />

bell-<strong>to</strong>wer raised above <strong>the</strong> main<br />

street. Descend <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sigala street,<br />

pass under <strong>the</strong> bell-<strong>to</strong>wer and keep<br />

looking around. Next spot worth your<br />

attention is ano<strong>the</strong>r archontiko, on <strong>the</strong><br />

left side of <strong>the</strong> street, decorated <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> national flag. This neoclassical<br />

building is in much better condition<br />

than <strong>the</strong> previous one and is a private<br />

possession.<br />

63


Not far away from <strong>the</strong>re by <strong>the</strong> right<br />

side of <strong>the</strong> street, <strong>the</strong>re is complex of<br />

abandoned farm houses, ruined mostly<br />

due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> earthquake. They are located<br />

just by <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main square.<br />

Definitely you will like <strong>to</strong> idle around<br />

for some time. You can contemplate <strong>the</strong><br />

area while having lunch <strong>the</strong>re. Isodia<br />

tis Theo<strong>to</strong>koy is <strong>the</strong> name of <strong>the</strong> church<br />

located by <strong>the</strong> square. Next <strong>to</strong> it stands a<br />

monument in honor of locals who fell in<br />

<strong>the</strong> world war. At <strong>the</strong> right back corner<br />

of <strong>the</strong> square you will find a narrow<br />

street (Makri Areopagi<strong>to</strong>y) leading up<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gavala Family Winery (follow<br />

<strong>the</strong> signs). It is just around <strong>the</strong> corner and<br />

would be pity <strong>to</strong> miss it. Pay a visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> winery, have a mini-<strong>to</strong>ur in its kanavas and try<br />

San<strong>to</strong>rini’s wines, all for a small charge (around 5 Euro). It is worth it!<br />

Leave <strong>the</strong> square passing under imposing bell-<strong>to</strong>wer and turn left behind it. It is no more<br />

than 50 m and you will be again at <strong>the</strong> outskirts street that encircles Megalochori. This time<br />

look down <strong>the</strong> field, slightly <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> right. Thus you will spot <strong>the</strong> white-washed wall of dug<br />

in <strong>the</strong> rock church of Aghia Foteini. From here you can return back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main street of<br />

Megalochori.<br />

If you venture 50 more meters up <strong>the</strong> hill you will have opportunity <strong>to</strong> admire Megalochori<br />

from above, which is an impressing view! A walk fur<strong>the</strong>r on will lead you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> spacious<br />

parking. From here you can see (from S <strong>to</strong> SE direction): <strong>the</strong> long hill of Gavrilos <strong>with</strong> old<br />

windmills on <strong>to</strong>p, Chalarovounia <strong>with</strong> just one windmill on its plain surface, and <strong>the</strong> Mountain<br />

of Profitis Ilias <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> Monastery on its <strong>to</strong>p. The nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost village on a high hill is<br />

Pyrgos.<br />

Continuing <strong>the</strong> road down from <strong>the</strong> parking area will take you <strong>to</strong> one more tavern and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

exit from <strong>the</strong> village. From <strong>the</strong>re you can catch <strong>SMART</strong> bus <strong>to</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r destination<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

The main street of Megalochori is 200 m long, <strong>the</strong>refore 20 minutes is enough <strong>to</strong> get through.<br />

However, if you want really enjoy it, have a stroll along numerous narrow passages leading<br />

deep in<strong>to</strong> Megalochori. Thus 1.5 hr you may spend here, <strong>with</strong>out getting bored! For visiting<br />

<strong>the</strong> winery consider 20 more minutes.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

There are two picturesque taverns at <strong>the</strong> main square of Megalochori, serving nice traditional<br />

food.<br />

Some 30 m behind <strong>the</strong> square, following <strong>the</strong> main street of Megalochori, is located Vedema<br />

Precious Items s<strong>to</strong>re. Less particular people are welcome in <strong>the</strong> mini-market next <strong>to</strong> it…<br />

Art Centre Philochoria is beyond <strong>the</strong> corner from Vedema <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main parking.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Megalochori is located at a fair distance from o<strong>the</strong>r villages, and walking along <strong>the</strong> busy<br />

public road is nei<strong>the</strong>r pleasant nor recommended in full season. It is much better <strong>to</strong> depend<br />

on bus transportation.<br />

64


MEGALOCHORI<br />

1. AG. IOANNIS<br />

2. AG. ANTONIOS<br />

3. AG. ANARGYRI<br />

4. CH. ZOODOCHOY PIGI<br />

5. ISODIA TIS THEOTOKOY<br />

6. AG. FOTEINI<br />

7. VEDEMA SHOP AND MINI MARKET<br />

8. POTTERY STUDIO<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

6<br />

5<br />

65


ART CENTER<br />

PHILOCHORIA<br />

Megalochori, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel-Fax: 22860 83281<br />

Mob: 6937 533897<br />

www.philochoria.gr<br />

See PYRGOS – page 15<br />

See page 32<br />

66<br />

RAKI<br />

Traditional Greek Tavern<br />

Megalochori Square<br />

Megalochori, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 81724<br />

SANTO WINES<br />

FIRA


EMPORIO<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: on <strong>the</strong> main square of Emporio.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Your current destination is <strong>the</strong> biggest village of San<strong>to</strong>rini and one of <strong>the</strong> five fortified medieval<br />

settlements. The kasteli of Emporio, apart from its defensive character, was an important trade<br />

center. All sorts of merchandize were sold here. The market place was most likely also very<br />

dynamic production place. All in all, <strong>the</strong> name of <strong>the</strong> village is a reminder of <strong>the</strong> past: Greek:<br />

emporio translates <strong>to</strong> “market place”.<br />

Due <strong>to</strong> its <strong>to</strong>pographic location <strong>the</strong> kasteli of Emporio was surveying <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn part of <strong>the</strong><br />

island. Its structure was not different from that of Pyrgos and Akrotiri, <strong>with</strong> a tangle of narrow<br />

alleyways and tightly packed dwellings. Kasteli of Emporio gave shelter <strong>to</strong> more than 80<br />

families but, as all o<strong>the</strong>r kastelia, was inhabited mainly by noblemen.<br />

The characteristic element of fortification still preserved in Emporio is <strong>the</strong> 15th century<br />

goulas, adjacent <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kasteli. Goulades were massive tetragonal structures which played a<br />

diverse role.<br />

At time of peace <strong>the</strong>y were used <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>re agricultural products, during piracy attacks <strong>the</strong>y<br />

offered shelter and were also a point of defense. Both goulas and kasteli of Emporio are quite<br />

well preserved and strolling around <strong>the</strong>re is really exciting adventure.<br />

The picture of <strong>the</strong> village is completed by ruined windmills on <strong>the</strong> nearby located hill of<br />

Gavrilos. Due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> windy character<br />

of <strong>the</strong> island, windmills have been a<br />

permanent element of Sa<strong>to</strong>rini landscape<br />

since at least <strong>the</strong> 14th century. They were<br />

used <strong>to</strong> grind barley and fava-beans.<br />

Later windmills had also baker’s oven<br />

at <strong>the</strong>ir lowest part. Windmills spread<br />

along <strong>the</strong> hill of Gavrilos are dated <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> 19th century.<br />

To <strong>the</strong> north of Emporio is located a<br />

relatively flat hill <strong>with</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r broken<br />

windmill at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p. This hill, called<br />

Chalarovounia, is also an excavation<br />

site. On Chalarovounia <strong>the</strong>re has been<br />

found pottery dated <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> last period of<br />

habitation on <strong>the</strong> island before <strong>the</strong> big<br />

eruption of <strong>the</strong> volcano in 17th BC.<br />

Last but not least, by <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong><br />

Emporio is located a small church of<br />

Aghios Nikolaos Marmaritis. Originally<br />

it was a Doric <strong>to</strong>mb dated from 3rd<br />

67


68<br />

century BC, six ages later it was<br />

converted in<strong>to</strong> a Christian monument<br />

dedicated <strong>to</strong> Saint Nicolas. It is built<br />

from grey marble, from which it <strong>to</strong>ok its<br />

name Marmaritis (Greek: marble).<br />

With all <strong>the</strong>se attractions and its approx.<br />

3000 permanent residents Emporio still<br />

refuses <strong>to</strong> become <strong>to</strong>urist destination.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The square in Emporio is a quite busy<br />

place. At <strong>the</strong> back of <strong>the</strong> square <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />

statue dedicated <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> locals who fell in<br />

<strong>the</strong> war. This is also a nice place where<br />

you can find a bench <strong>to</strong> sit among trees.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> side of <strong>the</strong> square is kalderimi that leads up <strong>to</strong> kasteli. You be sure <strong>to</strong> spot it easily,<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is signpost <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Traditional area and big mansion (currently it is a school) just behind it.<br />

Kasteli is only 3 minutes away from <strong>the</strong>re. Following this way you will pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Evangelismos. Not even 30 years old, this edifice is at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p list of <strong>the</strong> biggest churches<br />

of <strong>the</strong> island. Around here you can meet a local farmer selling wild capers. By <strong>the</strong> end of<br />

kalderimi <strong>the</strong> right turn will lead you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kasteli, while <strong>the</strong> left turn – <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> goulas.<br />

However, <strong>the</strong> best way <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> goulas close is by following <strong>the</strong> narrow path along <strong>the</strong><br />

children’s playground (behind cash machine) before <strong>the</strong> main square. Do not miss <strong>the</strong> ruins<br />

of hyposkafa (cave houses) on <strong>the</strong> right side of this way! Take <strong>the</strong> first turn left and <strong>the</strong>n right<br />

and in 5-8 minutes you will get in front of <strong>the</strong> goulas. The last 10 m of <strong>the</strong> pathway is quite<br />

steep, s<strong>to</strong>ny and slippery, so take care. On <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of goulas was a church, still you can see<br />

fragments of its vaulted roof. The goulas was a multi-s<strong>to</strong>rey massive construction. It suffered<br />

from damages mostly due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake.<br />

Just a hint: Show a respect <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> sign stuck in front of goulas and keep off <strong>the</strong> ruins.<br />

Some 50 m down from <strong>the</strong> goulas <strong>the</strong>re is a church of Aghia Kyriaki. It was built between <strong>the</strong><br />

15th and 16th century and its architec<strong>to</strong>nical<br />

pro<strong>to</strong>type was Theo<strong>to</strong>kaki, <strong>the</strong> 10th<br />

century church on <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> kasteli in<br />

Pyrgos.<br />

From this point it is possible <strong>to</strong> walk<br />

around <strong>the</strong> goulas. Continue <strong>to</strong> go along<br />

<strong>the</strong> street that brought you <strong>to</strong> goulas so<br />

that in next 5 minutes you will be able <strong>to</strong><br />

see it from above. Fur<strong>the</strong>r on this street<br />

will also lead you <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kasteli.<br />

Kasteli of Emporio is an amazing place,<br />

quite well preserved and despite <strong>the</strong><br />

destructive earthquakes, neat and full of<br />

charm.<br />

Immediately after entering <strong>the</strong> kasteli you<br />

will get in<strong>to</strong> a real tangle of extremely<br />

narrow streets and passages, <strong>with</strong> tightly<br />

packed colorful, small houses of irregular<br />

shapes. From <strong>the</strong> church of Agios<br />

Giorgos follow <strong>the</strong> street up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> northwest<br />

and go through a passage under an<br />

arch. It will lead you in front of Panagia


Mesani, a church built in <strong>the</strong> 16th<br />

century, <strong>with</strong> a sophisticated bell<strong>to</strong>wer.<br />

Panagia Mesani is located in<br />

<strong>the</strong> center of kasteli, because of this<br />

takes its name (Greek: mesa = in <strong>the</strong><br />

middle). If you turn right in front<br />

of Panagia Mesani and follow <strong>the</strong><br />

passage you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> original<br />

entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kastelli. In his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />

times this gate was <strong>the</strong> only way <strong>to</strong><br />

get in. In front of <strong>the</strong> gate <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

a square. Small church just opposite<br />

<strong>to</strong> it is Aghia Theodosia. The big<br />

church down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> left is Aghios<br />

Spiridion. Next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> gate you will<br />

see ruined cave houses. The passage<br />

behind it leads straight <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Georgios. Down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east from Aghios<br />

Georgios is Metamorphosis of Sotiros, a 19th century church <strong>with</strong> a beautiful bell-<strong>to</strong>wer.<br />

Make sure your camera has enough memory because in this picturesque place you will keep<br />

it very busy. The fact is also that kasteli is a real labyrinth of narrow passages. Do not worry;<br />

just remember that <strong>the</strong> main square of Emporio is somewhere down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> SE…<br />

Option for <strong>to</strong>ugh hikers:<br />

Approximately 500 m from <strong>the</strong> main square of Emporio along <strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong>wards<br />

Megalochori is located a little church of St. Nicolas Marmaritis. Half way <strong>to</strong> this church, on <strong>the</strong><br />

crossroads <strong>the</strong>re is a mini-church. Mini-churches are dedicated <strong>to</strong> victims of road accidents.<br />

Roads on San<strong>to</strong>rini belong <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> most dangerous, especially during summer, when traffic is<br />

really busy. Fur<strong>the</strong>r on from this place you will encounter a ceramic workshop. Looking <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

north is <strong>the</strong> round hill of Chalarovounia <strong>with</strong> its single windmill protruding from its <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p.<br />

Not even 100 m from <strong>the</strong> church of St. Nicolas Marmaritis, in <strong>the</strong> direction back <strong>to</strong> Emporio,<br />

<strong>the</strong> road is cut by a village street. Turn right (follow <strong>the</strong> sign <strong>to</strong> Escape Café) if you want <strong>to</strong><br />

get on <strong>the</strong> hill of Gavrilos. According <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> signpost you have approx. 1500 m <strong>to</strong> go, but you<br />

will enjoy it. The street leads among vineyards and flowery meadows. Look at <strong>the</strong> vines <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir characteristic circular shape (see: MEGALOCHORI <strong>to</strong> learn more about <strong>the</strong>m). On <strong>the</strong><br />

way you will have also opportunity <strong>to</strong> have a close look at <strong>the</strong> old windmills.<br />

There are 8 windmills standing along <strong>the</strong> hill. At <strong>the</strong> very end of <strong>the</strong> hill <strong>the</strong>re is a white little<br />

church, built just at <strong>the</strong> rim of a crag. This is Profitis Ilias o Chamilos (Low Prophet Elias) in<br />

contrary <strong>to</strong> Profitis Ilias o Psilos (High Prophet Elias) overlooking it from a far distance. If you<br />

turn back you spot it on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong><br />

high mountain. In front of it, slightly<br />

more <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> W is Chalarovounia <strong>with</strong><br />

its characteristic single windmill.<br />

This hill seems <strong>to</strong> be actually<br />

crowned by white houses of Pyrgos,<br />

emerging just behind. A long beach<br />

on <strong>the</strong> eastern side of <strong>the</strong> hill of<br />

Gavrilos is <strong>the</strong> famous black beach<br />

of Perissa and Perivolos. Down by<br />

<strong>the</strong> hill you will see picturesquely<br />

terraced fields. Also <strong>the</strong> western side<br />

of <strong>the</strong> hill offers a spectacular view.<br />

The white village on <strong>the</strong> peninsula is<br />

called Akrotiri, while <strong>the</strong> small one<br />

69


70<br />

PERIVOLOS 5<br />

PERISSA<br />

HILL OF<br />

GAVRILOS<br />

9<br />

M-M<br />

SHOPPING PASSAGE<br />

8<br />

4<br />

2<br />

MEGALOCHORI 7<br />

SCHOOL<br />

6<br />

3<br />

M-M<br />

9<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

1<br />

1<br />

EMPORIO<br />

1. PANAGIA MESANI<br />

2. CASH MACHINE<br />

3. CH. OF EVANGELISMOS<br />

4. AG. KYRIAKI<br />

5. GOULAS<br />

6. KALDERIMI<br />

7. WAR MEMORIAL / SQUARE<br />

8. PHARMACY<br />

9. AG. NICOLAS MARMARITIS<br />

MINI CHURCH<br />

S<br />

CHALAROVOUNIA<br />

SEE THE NEXT PAGE<br />

W<br />

E<br />

N


EMPORIO - KASTELI<br />

1. CH. OF EVANGELISMOS<br />

2. PANAGIA MESANI<br />

3. AG. GEORGIOS<br />

4. AG. CHARALAMBOS<br />

5. METAMORPHOSIS TOY SOTIROS<br />

6. AG. THEODOSIA<br />

7. AG. SPIRYDION<br />

8. ENTRANCE TO THE KASTELI (picture:<br />

<strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> bell-<strong>to</strong>wer of AG. THEODOSIA)<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

5<br />

8<br />

71


closer <strong>to</strong> you is Vlychada. See <strong>the</strong> original landscape created by wind and sea erosion. It is<br />

outstanding!<br />

At this point you may find a good idea <strong>to</strong> have a rest in <strong>the</strong> cafeteria mercifully set nearby…<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Minimum 40 minutes is needed <strong>to</strong> visit goulas and Kasteli but most likely you will spend<br />

more time idling around. The route <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Nikolaos Marmaritis requires<br />

10-15 minutes.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

Actually <strong>the</strong>re are no taverns in Emporio. By <strong>the</strong> square you can get refreshment and grilled<br />

food in one of <strong>the</strong> ouzeries. There is also a bakery behind <strong>the</strong> corner of Perissa road, as well as<br />

a mini-market. For urgent circumstances <strong>the</strong>re is a pharmacy by <strong>the</strong> square…<br />

There is also cafeteria-pool bar at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> hill of Gavrilos.<br />

Near <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Nikolaos Marmaritis <strong>the</strong>re is a farmer’s s<strong>to</strong>re, where local products<br />

are sold.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Church of St. Nicolas Marmaritis (approx. 500 m from <strong>the</strong> main square) and hill of Gavrilos<br />

(nearby).<br />

72<br />

OIA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: The first square before Oia Bus Terminal, near <strong>the</strong> Bakery.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

One of <strong>the</strong> five medieval fortified settlements of San<strong>to</strong>rini was located in Oia. It was named<br />

Kastro <strong>to</strong>u Aghiou Nikolaou (Castle of St. Nicolas) after an early 16th century church dedicated<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Saint. The Kasteli was located on <strong>the</strong> hardly accessible NW ridge of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, and<br />

dwellings <strong>with</strong>in <strong>the</strong> Kasteli were mostly hysposkafa, cut in <strong>the</strong> steep rocks of <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

The settlement on old maps is also known as Pano Meria (<strong>the</strong> Upper Side). With <strong>the</strong> course of<br />

time <strong>the</strong> fortified settlement spread over <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west and east. In <strong>the</strong> oldest NW part was built<br />

a look-out <strong>to</strong>wer (goulas).<br />

After <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake Kastro <strong>to</strong>u Aghiou Nikolaou was severely damaged and currently<br />

only ruins of goulas are an evidence of its existence. Around <strong>the</strong>re are crammed one on ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

cave houses, a part of <strong>the</strong> old fortification. At <strong>the</strong> very cliff, nearly hanged on <strong>the</strong> rocks, is <strong>the</strong><br />

old church Zoodochou Pigi.<br />

Next <strong>to</strong> it was <strong>the</strong> church of Panagia Platsani, hidden in a cave. According <strong>to</strong> a s<strong>to</strong>ry, icon<br />

of Virgin Mary was found in Crete and brought <strong>to</strong> Oia. Originally it was placed in one of<br />

<strong>the</strong> churches near goulas, but <strong>the</strong> icon in some unexplained way moved <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cave on <strong>the</strong>


verge of <strong>the</strong> cliff. The locals believed<br />

that Virgin Mary wanted <strong>to</strong> look at<br />

distant Crete, from were she was<br />

brought and <strong>the</strong>refore <strong>the</strong>y adopted <strong>the</strong><br />

cave for a church of Panagia Platsani.<br />

However, after <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake<br />

<strong>the</strong> cave collapsed. A new church was<br />

built on <strong>the</strong> square of Oia and <strong>the</strong> icon<br />

was moved <strong>the</strong>re. The new church<br />

of Panagia Platsani became also <strong>the</strong><br />

metropolis.<br />

It is said that Oia was built by <strong>the</strong><br />

captains and sailors. The peak of Oia’s<br />

development falls in <strong>the</strong> 18th-early<br />

20th centuries. Oia had two harbors<br />

during <strong>the</strong> 19th-early 20th century: Armeni – where you can descend 286 steps and Ammoudi<br />

<strong>with</strong> its 214 steps. From here <strong>the</strong> merchandize was shipped mostly <strong>to</strong> Russia and Alexandria.<br />

Most of nearly 80 churches in Oia are dated <strong>to</strong> years of its greatest marine prosperity. Most of<br />

<strong>the</strong> churches were raised by seamen who got rescued from a s<strong>to</strong>rm or by <strong>the</strong>ir families, waiting<br />

in agony for <strong>the</strong>ir return.<br />

Yet in <strong>the</strong> 19th century <strong>the</strong> main street<br />

of Oia, which is running along <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera, had been paved <strong>with</strong> marble<br />

flags<strong>to</strong>nes, a sign of prosperity of <strong>the</strong><br />

village. Since <strong>the</strong>n this street is called<br />

Marmara. In <strong>the</strong> 18th century <strong>the</strong> piracy<br />

raids were already a past, people had<br />

no more need <strong>to</strong> live <strong>with</strong>in <strong>the</strong> hardly<br />

accessible fortifications. Frequent<br />

contacts <strong>with</strong> distant cultures found<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir reflection also in architecture.<br />

On San<strong>to</strong>rini, and especially in Oia<br />

(mostly in its western part called<br />

Sideras), appeared a new category of<br />

houses. They were built according <strong>to</strong><br />

well designed and thought-of plan, had <strong>the</strong>refore regular shapes and sophisticated ornaments.<br />

The earliest ones were based on <strong>the</strong> Italian Renaissance. Later on also <strong>the</strong> neoclassical and<br />

eclectic styles appeared. These houses called archontika or mansions belonged <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> wealthiest<br />

inhabitants of <strong>the</strong> island. No wonder that most of <strong>the</strong>m were built in Oia, by captains of <strong>the</strong><br />

ships. For this reason here <strong>the</strong>y were called kapetanospitia (captain houses). Sailors were still<br />

dwelling in numerous caves dug in <strong>the</strong><br />

slopes of <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> 20th century<br />

Oia was densely populated. However<br />

<strong>the</strong> earthquake of 1956 caused severe<br />

damages <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village, most of <strong>the</strong> cave<br />

houses and beautiful mansions collapsed.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> 20th century merely<br />

1000 people were living in Oia and more<br />

or less this number remains until <strong>to</strong>day.<br />

You can take your own <strong>to</strong>ur of his<strong>to</strong>ry in<br />

Oia by visiting <strong>the</strong> Maritime Museum. It<br />

was created in 1951 and severely damaged<br />

73


74<br />

during <strong>the</strong> earthquake five years<br />

later. However <strong>the</strong> owner, captain<br />

An<strong>to</strong>nis Dakoronias put all his<br />

efforts in<strong>to</strong> res<strong>to</strong>ring it.<br />

The museum is located in a 19th<br />

century mansion.<br />

Today’s Oia holds its post of <strong>the</strong><br />

wealthiest settlement on San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

It is <strong>the</strong> only village on <strong>the</strong> island<br />

that has drinkable tap water. The<br />

networks of water pipes supply<br />

Oia <strong>with</strong> water from desalination<br />

plant.<br />

Oia <strong>with</strong> nearby settlements and<br />

<strong>the</strong> island Thirassia comprise a<br />

separate Community on San<strong>to</strong>rini,<br />

independent of <strong>the</strong> Municipality<br />

of Fira.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

The <strong>SMART</strong> bus s<strong>to</strong>p is on <strong>the</strong> first square in Oia, just 50 m from public bus terminal. West<br />

from <strong>the</strong> bus terminal is Sideras focusing <strong>the</strong> finest examples of captain houses. Most of <strong>the</strong>m<br />

are abandoned and partly ruined now but <strong>the</strong>y are still <strong>the</strong> reminder about <strong>the</strong> wealth of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

past owners. Look at <strong>the</strong> beautiful ornaments of anchors and frequently still readable initials<br />

of <strong>the</strong> family names. From Sideras you get out <strong>to</strong>wards Marmara, <strong>the</strong> main street elegantly<br />

covered <strong>with</strong> marble. It runs along <strong>the</strong> edge of <strong>the</strong> Caldera. The Caldera in Oia is densely built<br />

up <strong>with</strong> luxury hotels; however it is not difficult <strong>to</strong> spot old ruined cave houses in between.<br />

The two relatively big churches <strong>with</strong> blue domes raised on <strong>the</strong> Caldera one by ano<strong>the</strong>r are <strong>the</strong><br />

churches of St. Spiridion and of Resurection. In <strong>the</strong>ir proximity <strong>the</strong>re is a considerable number<br />

of o<strong>the</strong>r churches, <strong>the</strong>refore this part of <strong>the</strong> Caldera is called Monastiri.<br />

Following Marmara <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west you will get <strong>to</strong> a district called Lotza where <strong>the</strong> city hall<br />

is located. If you are interested in marine his<strong>to</strong>ry of Oia pay a visit <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> nearby located<br />

Maritime Museum, follow <strong>the</strong> signs <strong>to</strong> get <strong>the</strong>re. The Maritime Museum is open everyday<br />

except Tuesdays, from 10:00 <strong>to</strong> 20:00 <strong>with</strong> a break from 14:00 <strong>to</strong> 17:00.<br />

In Lotza is located goulas. You will find it easily on <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, next <strong>to</strong> a stairway<br />

which leads down <strong>to</strong> Ammoudi. By <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost verge of <strong>the</strong> rock is <strong>the</strong> church of<br />

Zooodochos Pigi, once next <strong>to</strong> it was a cave church <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> icon of Panagia Platsani. The<br />

neighborhood of goulas is currently <strong>the</strong> beloved place for watching sunsets. In summer<br />

though, you should be prepared<br />

for crowds of people, who<br />

massively ga<strong>the</strong>r all over <strong>with</strong><br />

one scope – <strong>to</strong> take pictures of <strong>the</strong><br />

evening sun. At evening hours Oia<br />

is probably turning in<strong>to</strong> one of <strong>the</strong><br />

most densely populated cities of<br />

<strong>the</strong> world!<br />

The southwestern borders of<br />

medieval fortifications reached as<br />

far as <strong>to</strong>o windmills which stay<br />

<strong>the</strong>re until <strong>to</strong>day. They are called<br />

Garbinoi Myloi after garbis – <strong>the</strong><br />

southwestern wind.


From goulas you can<br />

descend <strong>to</strong> Ammoudi,<br />

following 214 steps. The<br />

long zig-zag of stairways<br />

is called by <strong>the</strong> locals<br />

karavolades. Descending<br />

<strong>to</strong> Ammoudi gives you<br />

an opportunity <strong>to</strong> have<br />

close look at <strong>the</strong> cliffs of<br />

Caldera. You will pass<br />

next <strong>to</strong> cave houses dug<br />

in <strong>the</strong> steep rock. On right<br />

side down <strong>the</strong> slope is <strong>the</strong><br />

old church of St. Nicolas,<br />

built <strong>with</strong> red volcanic<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes. However it is not<br />

<strong>the</strong> cliff that you can see<br />

from close now. The same<br />

way is frequently used by mules, which have also <strong>the</strong>ir physiological needs. So keep watching<br />

also your steps…<br />

To Ammoudi leads also a regular road that is passing next <strong>to</strong> an old quarry of pumice. The<br />

small harbor of Ammoudi is <strong>the</strong> place where from you can hire a boat that will take you <strong>to</strong><br />

Thirassia. There is also a small beach <strong>with</strong> red sand here.<br />

You can also get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> small beach of Armeni, which was <strong>the</strong> second harbor of Oia. You<br />

will find <strong>the</strong> stairways <strong>to</strong> Armeni at <strong>the</strong> eastern part of Marmara, some 150 m away from<br />

goulas. Armeni requires much more determination than Ammoudi, because - remember – <strong>the</strong><br />

karavolades here count 286 steps….<br />

By Marmara, on <strong>the</strong> way between Ammoudi and Armeni <strong>the</strong>re is a vast square duly called<br />

“balcony of Oia”. On its back is located a new church of Panagia Platsani, built after <strong>the</strong><br />

earthquake. This is also <strong>the</strong> metropolis of Pano Meria. The famous icon was moved here<br />

<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> old templon. The two o<strong>the</strong>r templons on its sides were added later, after <strong>the</strong><br />

new church was built.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Walk from <strong>the</strong> bus terminus <strong>to</strong> Garbinoi Myloi takes 15-30 minutes, depending of <strong>the</strong> traffic.<br />

Descending <strong>to</strong> Ammoudi takes some 25 minutes. Twice as much <strong>to</strong> get up.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

There is a great variety of taverns in Oia, offering traditional Greek, Italian or even Polish<br />

food. Those on <strong>the</strong> Caldera offer meals <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> volcano view <strong>the</strong>refore <strong>the</strong> prices may shock<br />

you. There are also taverns down in <strong>the</strong> village, on <strong>the</strong> way <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> bus terminus and along <strong>the</strong><br />

public road, which may be cheaper, although devoid of <strong>the</strong> thrill of being in <strong>the</strong> proximity of<br />

<strong>the</strong> volcano. There are also nice cafeterias, pizzerias and some s<strong>to</strong>res offering grilled food.<br />

Shopping in Oia is an exciting adventure. Numerous jewellery s<strong>to</strong>res, boutiques and art<br />

galleries will dazzle you. There is also a lively outdoor market along <strong>the</strong> Marmara where you<br />

can buy wines, fruits, fava-beans, capers, even prickly pears.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Finikia – 10-15 minutes walk.<br />

Black beach of Perissa and Perivolos (<strong>with</strong> taverns) - about 2 km down <strong>the</strong> main street <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

S.<br />

75


AMMOUDI<br />

76<br />

10<br />

I<br />

LE<br />

ARMENI<br />

9<br />

C A<br />

D R A<br />

E<br />

V<br />

W<br />

8<br />

5<br />

11<br />

5<br />

MARMARA<br />

WC<br />

MARMARA<br />

2<br />

4<br />

3<br />

3<br />

1<br />

7<br />

M-M<br />

6<br />

CAR<br />

RENTAL<br />

PUBLIC<br />

BUS<br />

TERMINAL<br />

FINI KIA / FIRA<br />

M-M<br />

4<br />

THOLOS<br />

BAKERY<br />

6<br />

OIA<br />

1. PHARMACY<br />

2. MAIN SQUARE<br />

3. PANAGIA PLATSANI<br />

4. RUINED MANSION BY THE SQUARE<br />

5. MONASTIRI (ON THE CALDERA)<br />

6. MANSION IN SIDERAS<br />

7. MARITIME MUSEUM<br />

8. GOULAS<br />

9. ZOODOCHOS PIGI<br />

10. AG. NICOLAS<br />

11.GARBINOI MYLOI<br />

PARKING AREA<br />

11<br />

S<br />

W<br />

E<br />

N<br />

4 10<br />

9 8


SKALA<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Manager: Stauros Sigalas<br />

Oia, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 71362<br />

Mob: 6972 215023<br />

SKIZA CAFE<br />

Oia, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 71569<br />

FEREDINI RESTAURANT<br />

Managers: Chris<strong>to</strong>s Markozanes,<br />

Stauros Sigalas<br />

Oia, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 22860 71825<br />

77


78<br />

FINIKIA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: On <strong>the</strong> main road from Fira, by <strong>the</strong> east entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> village, next <strong>to</strong><br />

signpost “Traditional settlement”.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Finikia is one of Oia’s districts. It is <strong>the</strong> first settlement before Oia village which you encounter<br />

arriving from Fira. Finikia is located in a gorge; <strong>the</strong>refore most of <strong>the</strong> dwellings <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

caves. Surprisingly, Finikia did not suffer very badly after <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake, so <strong>the</strong> village<br />

remains a lively picture of <strong>the</strong> past. As Oia is <strong>the</strong> village of seamen, Finikia is <strong>the</strong> village of<br />

farmers. The fields around Finikia are planted mainly <strong>with</strong> vines.<br />

Strolling around:<br />

Finikia is only 15 minutes away (walking distance) from Oia and it is one of those places<br />

that complete <strong>the</strong> picture of San<strong>to</strong>rini. The village is located down <strong>the</strong> main road, where <strong>the</strong><br />

land forms natural ravine. The houses are built tightly one by ano<strong>the</strong>r. To use more efficiently<br />

<strong>the</strong> limited space, in <strong>the</strong> wall of <strong>the</strong> ravine are dug <strong>the</strong> cave houses (hyposkafa). The streets<br />

are very narrow, <strong>with</strong> many steps, usually paved; some stretches are covered <strong>with</strong> concrete.<br />

The east entrance <strong>to</strong> Finikia from <strong>the</strong> main road Fira-Oia is marked by signpost “Traditional<br />

Settlement”. If you walk <strong>to</strong> Finikia village from Oia, you can get <strong>the</strong>re by <strong>the</strong> west entrance. You<br />

will have <strong>to</strong> pass along newer part of <strong>the</strong> village <strong>with</strong> houses representing typical contemporary<br />

architecture. At <strong>the</strong> crossroads continue straight on <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> east and you will soon get in<strong>to</strong> a tangle<br />

of narrow stairways along<br />

which charming farm<br />

houses and old caves<br />

are densely located.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

settlement. The highlight<br />

of Finikia is <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Saint Matrona. Once<br />

<strong>the</strong> church used <strong>to</strong> be<br />

salmon-colored, now <strong>the</strong><br />

color slightly faded. Next<br />

<strong>to</strong> it is growing a slender<br />

palm tree.


FINIKIA<br />

1. YPAPANTI<br />

2. AG. MATRONA<br />

3. AG. VASILIS<br />

4. GRAVEYARD<br />

5. AG. GEORGIOS<br />

1<br />

2<br />

5<br />

79


To <strong>the</strong> right from this<br />

church is ano<strong>the</strong>r one,<br />

dated <strong>to</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> 19th<br />

century. This is <strong>the</strong> church<br />

of Ypapanti, yellowcolored.<br />

The stroll in Finikia does<br />

not require more than<br />

20 minutes, because <strong>the</strong><br />

settlement is really small,<br />

however you may need<br />

some more time <strong>to</strong> get out<br />

of this maze. The tavern<br />

“To Krinaki”, near <strong>the</strong> exit,<br />

is waiting for exhausted<br />

guests…<br />

Finish your visit <strong>to</strong> Finikia<br />

by turning left at <strong>the</strong> crossroads and getting up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> main road Fira-Oia (S). The village up<br />

here is Perivolas, <strong>the</strong> gate <strong>to</strong> Oia. Almost immediately across <strong>the</strong> street you encounter <strong>the</strong><br />

picturesque church of Aghios Vasilis. Keep walking <strong>to</strong>wards Oia, do not miss <strong>the</strong> sign <strong>to</strong><br />

Desalination Plant which supplies <strong>the</strong> houses in Oia <strong>with</strong> drinkable water, <strong>the</strong>refore it is a<br />

pride of <strong>the</strong> Community.<br />

Fur<strong>the</strong>r on, on <strong>the</strong> left side of <strong>the</strong> street is <strong>the</strong> big church of Aghios Georgios. Until 1956 this<br />

church was <strong>the</strong> metropolis of Pano Meria.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> 1956 earthquake army services build houses <strong>to</strong> accommodate <strong>the</strong> villagers who lost<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own possessions. These houses are located on <strong>the</strong> right side of <strong>the</strong> street along Perivolas.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> left side you can admire <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

The stroll around Finikia requires about 30 minutes, but if you are going <strong>the</strong> walk <strong>the</strong>re from<br />

Oia you will need ano<strong>the</strong>r 15 minutes or so.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

You will find one tavern by <strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> traditional settlement. By <strong>the</strong> main road <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

left and <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> right from <strong>the</strong> signpost <strong>to</strong> Finikia <strong>the</strong>re are some more taverns. You will have no<br />

problem <strong>to</strong> find something on <strong>the</strong> way <strong>to</strong> Oia. There are also bakeries in Perivolas.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Oia – 10-15 minutes walk.<br />

80


IMEROVIGLI<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: The parking area by <strong>the</strong> crossroads <strong>to</strong> Oia.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

A village that you must see <strong>to</strong> believe that it can be true! Houses of unique architecture are<br />

hanging on a cliff 300 m above <strong>the</strong> sea level. Thousands of steps connect one <strong>with</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

competing for space <strong>with</strong> flowers. And all this in front of <strong>the</strong> gloomy rock of Skaros. For ages<br />

here was <strong>the</strong> capital of San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

As all fortified settlements on San<strong>to</strong>rini, this one was established <strong>to</strong> give shelter <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> people<br />

constantly <strong>to</strong>rmented by pirates. San<strong>to</strong>rini was <strong>the</strong>ir favorite target and frequent attacks<br />

resulted in dramatic reduction in population number. The 16th century welcomed <strong>the</strong> island<br />

almost completely abandoned. It seems that <strong>the</strong> only safe place on San<strong>to</strong>rini in those ages was<br />

Skaros. The rock was densely covered<br />

<strong>with</strong> more that 200 houses. Its<br />

strategic location allowed survey of<br />

all of <strong>the</strong> Caldera. The only entrance<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> kasteli was by a moving<br />

bridge accessible from <strong>the</strong> long and<br />

narrow street that runs along <strong>the</strong><br />

steep cliffs. No wonder that Kasteli<br />

of Skaros, established in <strong>the</strong> early<br />

13th century for next 600 years<br />

of its his<strong>to</strong>ry was never defeated.<br />

Decline of its glory came in 1650<br />

<strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> eruption of Koloumbo,<br />

<strong>the</strong> underwater volcano about 7 km<br />

nor<strong>the</strong>ast from Oia. The eruption<br />

was so dramatic, that in <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of San<strong>to</strong>rini it is referred <strong>to</strong> as “<strong>the</strong><br />

time of Evil”. The settlement on<br />

Skaros suffered serious damages<br />

and although for 100 years<br />

<strong>the</strong>reafter some people were trying<br />

<strong>to</strong> stay faithful <strong>to</strong> it, <strong>the</strong> collapse of<br />

Skaros was irrevocable. By <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of <strong>the</strong> 18th century <strong>the</strong> migration<br />

from Skaros was completed. The<br />

rock remained all alone.<br />

At times of its glory Skaros was<br />

also a seat of <strong>the</strong> oldest monastery<br />

81


of San<strong>to</strong>rini – <strong>the</strong> Nunnery of St. Nicolaos,<br />

established <strong>the</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> mid 17th century. Not for<br />

long though because <strong>the</strong> eruption of Koloumbo<br />

did not spare even <strong>the</strong> monastery. A new edifice<br />

was built at <strong>the</strong> beginning of <strong>the</strong> 19th century<br />

on <strong>the</strong> ridge of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, at a fair distance<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south from Skaros, <strong>the</strong>re where you can<br />

see it now.<br />

As regards Imerovigli, <strong>the</strong> settlement was<br />

established in <strong>the</strong> 16th century. It is located 300<br />

m above <strong>the</strong> sea level, overlooking <strong>the</strong> rock of<br />

Skaros. Imerovigli owes its name <strong>to</strong> lookoutpost<br />

(vigla) that was on Skaros, just in front of<br />

<strong>the</strong> settlement. That was <strong>the</strong> place from where<br />

<strong>the</strong> day guards were constantly surveying <strong>the</strong><br />

sea and warning <strong>the</strong> islanders in case of danger.<br />

From a combination of words: Imeras (Greek:<br />

daily) and vigla (Italian: <strong>to</strong> watch) finally<br />

emerged Imerovigli.<br />

Strolling on <strong>the</strong> Caldera is breathtaking<br />

adventure. While being <strong>the</strong>re you may find<br />

answer <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> question: why children are<br />

not allowed in <strong>the</strong> majority of hotels on <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera…Strolling around:<br />

To get in front of Skaros from <strong>the</strong> bus s<strong>to</strong>p turn left<br />

and follow <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west. The church on your right is Aghios Ioannis Chrisos<strong>to</strong>mas.<br />

The church was built in 1972 <strong>to</strong> replace ano<strong>the</strong>r one that was located on <strong>the</strong> Caldera and<br />

collapsed after <strong>the</strong> earthquake. Across <strong>the</strong> street, some more meters up, you will see vivid red<br />

archontiko. Follow <strong>the</strong> street in a western direction (in case of doubt <strong>the</strong> sign <strong>to</strong> Oniro Suites<br />

will help you <strong>to</strong> find this way). From <strong>the</strong>re is no more than 100 m <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caldera viewpoint.<br />

You will get <strong>to</strong> a square, <strong>with</strong> a statue commemorating islanders who died in <strong>the</strong> war and <strong>the</strong><br />

big church of Panagia Malteza. A s<strong>to</strong>ry says that an icon of Virgin Mary was found in Malta<br />

and brought by a seaman <strong>to</strong> San<strong>to</strong>rini. The original church of Panagia Malteza was raised in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 19th century in Imerovigli. It had imposing bell-<strong>to</strong>wer <strong>with</strong> 12 big bells. The rumor says<br />

that when <strong>the</strong>y were ringing, <strong>the</strong>ir sound was heard in Oia, 8 km away. The earthquake in 1956<br />

had destroyed everything. A new church was raised in place of <strong>the</strong> old one, unfortunately most<br />

of <strong>the</strong> bells turned in<strong>to</strong> pieces,<br />

and <strong>to</strong>day’s bell-<strong>to</strong>wer has<br />

only remaining four. Cladding<br />

<strong>with</strong> red volcanic s<strong>to</strong>nes is<br />

contemporary decoration.<br />

If you happen <strong>to</strong> find <strong>the</strong><br />

door open, get inside <strong>to</strong> see<br />

marvelous carved wooden icon<br />

screen <strong>with</strong> old silver-covered<br />

icons and <strong>the</strong> icon of Panagia<br />

Malteza under a glass cover.<br />

A narrow street will lead you<br />

from this square <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> essence<br />

of Imerovigli – a high and<br />

steep cliff now covered <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> most exclusive and luxury<br />

hotels of shapes and colors<br />

82


that you will never forget.<br />

Keep watching <strong>the</strong> sides of <strong>the</strong><br />

footways because it is a good<br />

opportunity <strong>to</strong> find ruined<br />

caves. Before <strong>the</strong> earthquake<br />

<strong>the</strong>re were a fair number of<br />

people living in hyposkafa<br />

(cave houses - carved in<br />

<strong>the</strong> rock) on <strong>the</strong> Caldera in<br />

Imerovigli.<br />

From here you have full view<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caldera. White village<br />

at <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rnmost cape of <strong>the</strong><br />

island is Oia and <strong>the</strong> one on<br />

<strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rnmost is Akrotiri.<br />

The island across <strong>the</strong> sea, <strong>with</strong><br />

white crest of houses on <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>p is called Thirassia, once an<br />

integral part <strong>with</strong> San<strong>to</strong>rini. Small whitish island left <strong>to</strong> Thirassia is called Aspronisi. Cones of<br />

<strong>the</strong> active volcano – Palaia and Nea Kameni, are in <strong>the</strong> middle of this composition.<br />

The rock nearly at your feet is <strong>the</strong> gorgeous Skaros...<br />

For <strong>to</strong>ugh hikers: You can descent <strong>to</strong> Skaros following thousands of steps. This walk will<br />

cost you 30 minutes one way and complete dehydration if you have not got enough bottled<br />

water <strong>with</strong> you. You can find <strong>the</strong> way if you turn left following signs <strong>to</strong> Spilliotica. You will<br />

pass next <strong>to</strong> ruined caves (left side) immediately <strong>the</strong>reafter turn right down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> cliff. You<br />

have many steps and turns <strong>to</strong> follow before you get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> small church of Aghios Ioannis<br />

Apokefalis<strong>the</strong>is, built in 1966. There you can sit <strong>to</strong> recover because <strong>the</strong> worst is still waiting<br />

for you. You will have <strong>to</strong> walk along <strong>the</strong> narrow footway on <strong>the</strong> verge of a dreadful chasm.<br />

Good moment <strong>to</strong> think about <strong>the</strong> past and realize why this place had never been defeated. This<br />

way will lead you <strong>to</strong> a picturesque church of Theoskepasti, which is stuck in <strong>the</strong> front wall<br />

of Skaros.<br />

Hint: If you are <strong>with</strong> children, ei<strong>the</strong>r do not continue <strong>the</strong> walk behind <strong>the</strong> church of Ag.<br />

Ioannis, or hold <strong>the</strong>ir hands and keep an eye on <strong>the</strong>m. In any case do not try <strong>to</strong> surround <strong>the</strong><br />

rock, because footway disappears suddenly, and even if <strong>the</strong>re seems <strong>to</strong> exist a passage, it is<br />

full of rocks and holes, in <strong>the</strong> best case you will break your leg…<br />

From <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Ioannis<br />

you can return <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> stairways of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera and walk <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south,<br />

<strong>to</strong>wards Fira. Thus you may get<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> whitewashed church of St.<br />

Georgios. The church is raised<br />

at <strong>the</strong> very edge of <strong>the</strong> cliff. In<br />

its courtyard is a marble board<br />

commemorating a miracle that<br />

happed some 10 years ago in this<br />

place. According <strong>to</strong> it a young boy<br />

slipped from <strong>the</strong> cliff after trying<br />

<strong>to</strong> reach his jacket that fell down.<br />

He tumbled down from <strong>the</strong> steep<br />

rock. It is a real miracle that, apart<br />

from some scratches, he did not<br />

83


84<br />

get any serious injury! Fur<strong>the</strong>r on you<br />

will pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghia<br />

Anastasia <strong>with</strong> its characteristic,<br />

square-shaped bell-<strong>to</strong>wer.<br />

Nunnery of St Nicolaos: Behind <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Georgios try <strong>to</strong><br />

find way up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> plako<strong>to</strong> that runs<br />

along <strong>the</strong> upper line of <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> distance you will see vivid<br />

red mansion house that is located by<br />

this street. You have no more stairs<br />

on your way and in next 5 minutes<br />

you will get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Monastery. While<br />

approaching <strong>the</strong> Monastery have a<br />

look down <strong>the</strong> main building, on a cliff. You will discern magnificent whitewashed walls of<br />

hyposkafa. Fur<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> way leads <strong>to</strong> Firostefani.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

From 25 minutes <strong>to</strong> 2 hours. Just getting from <strong>the</strong> parking area <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caldera view point is no<br />

more than 10 minutes, if you want <strong>to</strong> visit Skaros you need additionally 1 hour. Getting <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

monastery from <strong>the</strong> main road is ano<strong>the</strong>r 10 minutes but if you are going <strong>to</strong> get <strong>the</strong>re walking<br />

along stairways of <strong>the</strong> Caldera you will need at least 30 minutes.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

By <strong>the</strong> main street <strong>the</strong>re are a couple of taverns and a creperie. One more you will find<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> Church of Aghios Ioannis Chrysos<strong>to</strong>mas. And, of course, you can have romantic<br />

refreshment in one of cafeterias on <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera. Consider that prices <strong>the</strong>re match<br />

<strong>the</strong> location…<br />

Mini-markets, bakery and Art Gallery<br />

are located along <strong>the</strong> street following <strong>the</strong><br />

direction from Fira <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> turn <strong>to</strong>wards <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera view. There are some more s<strong>to</strong>res<br />

<strong>with</strong> souvenirs and art items up <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Right from <strong>the</strong> building where <strong>the</strong> minimarket<br />

and a tavern are located, you will<br />

find stairs down <strong>to</strong> a vast parking area.<br />

Here, on <strong>the</strong> back side of <strong>the</strong> building is<br />

a s<strong>to</strong>re where you can buy capers, favabeans,<br />

local wine and <strong>to</strong>matakia from<br />

family business. Also market near <strong>the</strong> Art<br />

Gallery, up <strong>the</strong> street <strong>to</strong>wards Oia sells<br />

traditional products of San<strong>to</strong>rini.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Firostefani – 1.5 km south, 10-15 minutes<br />

walk along <strong>the</strong> public road or 30 minutes<br />

straying along <strong>the</strong> Caldera stairways.<br />

Fira – 2.5 km south, 20 minutes walk<br />

along <strong>the</strong> public road or 1 hour along <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera stairways.


6<br />

IMEROVIGLI<br />

1. AG. IOANNIS CHRYSOSTOMOS<br />

2. PANAGIA MALTEZA<br />

3. AG. IOANNIS APOKEFALISTHEIS<br />

4. SKAROS<br />

5. AG. GEORGIOS<br />

6. AG. ANASTASIA<br />

7. ST. NICOLAS NUNNERY<br />

1<br />

4<br />

2<br />

7<br />

85


86<br />

PANTHEON DELUXE VILLAS HOTEL<br />

& RESTAURANT<br />

Imerovigli, San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

Tel: 2286025570 Fax: 22860 25573<br />

www.pan<strong>the</strong>on-villas.gr


FIROSTEFANI<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p: Next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Gerasimos.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

It is safe <strong>to</strong> say that Firostefani is suburbs of Fira. Located on <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> Caldera, merely<br />

20 m above <strong>the</strong> level of Fira, gained <strong>the</strong> title of Crown of Fira (Greek: stefani = crown). The<br />

border between <strong>the</strong> two villages is <strong>the</strong> Dominican Convent and vivid red mansion of Petros<br />

Nomikos Conference Centre, fur<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> north.<br />

The catholic, north part of Firostefani, <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dominican Convent is called Frankika.<br />

The Petros Nomikos Conference Centre is an imposing neoclassical building overlooking<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera. It is housing an exhibition of life-size reproductions of wall-painting from <strong>the</strong><br />

ancient settlement excavated in Akrotiri. Most of <strong>the</strong> scientific and business meetings as well<br />

as temporary exhibitions are held in Petros Nomikos.<br />

The landmark of Firostefani is <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Gerasimos on <strong>the</strong> square and <strong>the</strong> catholic<br />

church of Panagia <strong>to</strong>n Aghion Theodoron. The latter one is <strong>the</strong> most advertised church of <strong>the</strong><br />

island, because it is presented on most of San<strong>to</strong>rini postcards…<br />

Strolling around:<br />

North walk: Main square of Firostefani is where <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Gerasimos is located,<br />

surrounded by slim cypresses. From here you can get <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caldera and turn right, following<br />

<strong>the</strong> plako<strong>to</strong> <strong>with</strong> traditional houses along it, or turn down and continue your walk among <strong>the</strong><br />

stairways on <strong>the</strong> Caldera. This way is much, much longer, because you will have <strong>to</strong> choose<br />

between many turns, ups downs and numerous steps, steep and flat, leading among buildings<br />

most sophisticated in form and color that will make you dizzy. This walk is one of <strong>the</strong> “musts”<br />

of this island. To find out about <strong>the</strong> real San<strong>to</strong>rini you just have <strong>to</strong> go <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caldera. The view<br />

that will open <strong>to</strong> your eyes is something you have never seen before, and certainly, you will<br />

not find something like this anywhere else.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> point where you will not be able any more <strong>to</strong> find a passage <strong>to</strong> Imerovigli, climb up<br />

and get back <strong>to</strong> plako<strong>to</strong>. Most likely you will emerge near Ira Hotel. Continue your walk<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r along <strong>the</strong> nearby located public road or <strong>the</strong> old cobbles<strong>to</strong>ne footway. They run parallel.<br />

At some places you may find this stretch quite messy, but anyways it is much nicer and safer<br />

than <strong>the</strong> busy road. Following it you will get in front of <strong>the</strong> Nunnery of St. Nicolas. From here<br />

begins Imerovigli.<br />

South walk: Following <strong>the</strong> Caldera line <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> south you will get <strong>to</strong> Fira. Along <strong>the</strong> main road<br />

<strong>the</strong> distance is only 1 km. Walking at <strong>the</strong> Caldera will take much more time and effort but it<br />

is worth it. As <strong>the</strong> locals proudly say – this is <strong>the</strong> real place where <strong>the</strong> heart of San<strong>to</strong>rini beats.<br />

So, do not hesitate any more seconds!<br />

87


88<br />

1<br />

FIROSTEFANI<br />

1.PETROS NOMIKOS CONF. CENTRE<br />

2. PANAGIA TON THEODORON<br />

3. AG. GERASIMOS<br />

4. ST. NICOLAS NUNNERY<br />

2 3 4


About 80 m away from <strong>the</strong><br />

square, on <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong><br />

Caldera <strong>the</strong>re is a church<br />

of Panagia <strong>to</strong>n Aghion<br />

Theodoron (next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Gaby Hotel). From here you<br />

will see <strong>the</strong> yellow-painted<br />

façade <strong>with</strong> <strong>the</strong> church bell<br />

<strong>to</strong>wer. To see its dome you<br />

should take a road at <strong>the</strong> back<br />

of <strong>the</strong> main square. It is only<br />

3 minutes walk and you will<br />

find yourself on a spacious<br />

square <strong>with</strong> great views <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> volcano. You can watch<br />

it through <strong>the</strong> picturesque<br />

bell-<strong>to</strong>wer of a white church<br />

<strong>with</strong> blue dome. Exactly as<br />

on <strong>the</strong> postcards… The most<br />

frequently pho<strong>to</strong>graphed church of Panagia <strong>to</strong>n Aghion Theodoron was built after <strong>the</strong> 1956<br />

earthquake in place of <strong>the</strong> older one. There is an icon brought here from Russia in <strong>the</strong> 16th<br />

century in <strong>the</strong> church. The icon quickly became famous for miracles which were happening<br />

in its presence.<br />

Following <strong>the</strong> Caldera line <strong>to</strong>wards Fira you will get <strong>to</strong> Petros Nomikos Conference Centre.<br />

The exhibition is opened from May <strong>to</strong> mid Oc<strong>to</strong>ber from 10:00 <strong>to</strong> 21:00. Before you go <strong>to</strong> see<br />

<strong>the</strong> reproductions of wall-paintings, spend a couple of minutes in <strong>the</strong> gallery featuring his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of Akrotiri and documentation on excavations. Most of <strong>the</strong> original wall-paintings have been<br />

moved <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Museum in A<strong>the</strong>ns. Some original fragments of wall-paintings are part<br />

of exhibition in <strong>the</strong> Museum of Prehis<strong>to</strong>ric Thera in Fira.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

<strong>Sightseeing</strong>in Firostefani does not require more than 15 minutes. If you decide <strong>to</strong> walk along<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caldera <strong>to</strong> Imerovigli or <strong>to</strong> Fira, 30 minutes for each is <strong>the</strong> minimum or just 10 minutes<br />

along <strong>the</strong> public road.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> eat and do shopping:<br />

A couple of taverns and cafeteria are some 20 m down from <strong>the</strong> square, by <strong>the</strong> main road from<br />

Fira. Behind <strong>the</strong> church of Aghios Gerasimos, turning right <strong>to</strong> plako<strong>to</strong>, you will find cafeteria<br />

Mylos (two picturesque windmills will help you <strong>to</strong> spot <strong>the</strong> place), and in front of it also<br />

Italian pizzeria-restaurant “Il Cantuccio”.<br />

A s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>with</strong> traditional products of San<strong>to</strong>rini is located by <strong>the</strong> square. A mini market and<br />

pastry s<strong>to</strong>re are also by <strong>the</strong> road <strong>to</strong> Fira.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Imerovigli – 1.5 km<br />

Fira – 1 km<br />

See page 32<br />

FIRA<br />

89


90<br />

CRUISE IN THE CALDERA<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

In front of Kamari Tours office in Fira*, direct connection <strong>to</strong> Athinios port for <strong>the</strong> non-s<strong>to</strong>p<br />

cruise in <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

Pick-up for return from Athinios is at <strong>the</strong> same spot as drop-off.<br />

* Connection <strong>with</strong> Yellow, Red and Orange Line in Fira.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

The awe inspiring beauty of San<strong>to</strong>rini,<br />

also known as Thira, leaves every visi<strong>to</strong>r<br />

breathless. There have been many legends<br />

<strong>to</strong>ld about this mystical island that scientists<br />

can not explain, even <strong>to</strong> this day. The<br />

geological shape that has made this island so<br />

famous is a result of a tremendous eruption,<br />

which occurred around 3600 years ago.<br />

Before that San<strong>to</strong>rini was a circular island,<br />

named Stroggili (=round) and later-on also<br />

Kalllisti (<strong>the</strong> fairest one). The violent eruption<br />

of <strong>the</strong> volcano located in its center, sent more<br />

than half of <strong>the</strong> island <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m of <strong>the</strong><br />

sea and created a biggest underwater crater<br />

(caldera, or just: pot) of <strong>the</strong> world. The main island, Thira, which covers an area of about 75<br />

km2, Thirasia - around 9 km2, uninhabited Aspronisi - just 100 m2, Palea Kameni - 500 m2<br />

(one inhabitant) and Nea Kameni - 3.4 km2 are <strong>the</strong> only lef<strong>to</strong>vers of <strong>the</strong> former Kallisti. The<br />

giant caldera of San<strong>to</strong>rini has depths of up <strong>to</strong> 400 m and extends 11 km NS and 7 km WE. It<br />

is surrounded by steep cliffs (reaching up <strong>to</strong> 300 m above <strong>the</strong> sea level) on three sides. The<br />

island slopes downward from <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> caldera <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> surrounding Aegean Sea. On <strong>the</strong><br />

fourth side <strong>the</strong> lagoon is separated from <strong>the</strong> sea by islands of Thirassia and Aspronissi. All <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s harbors are in <strong>the</strong> lagoon, and <strong>the</strong>re are no ports on <strong>the</strong> outer perimeter of <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

The volcanic activity did not cease <strong>with</strong> that tremendous eruption in <strong>the</strong> 17th century BC. 14<br />

ano<strong>the</strong>r explosions occurred since <strong>the</strong>n. The latest one <strong>to</strong>ok place in 1950. Two small islands<br />

in <strong>the</strong> centre of <strong>to</strong>day’s Caldera are quietly waiting for <strong>the</strong>ir turn: Palea and Nea Kameni, <strong>the</strong><br />

cones of active volcano...<br />

<strong>Sightseeing</strong>:<br />

The very arrival <strong>to</strong> Athinios is an<br />

unforgotten adventure. The road<br />

descending <strong>the</strong> steep cliff features<br />

a huge zig-zag. If you suffer from<br />

acrophobia you better keep your<br />

eyes tightly closed...<br />

Our boat will pick you up from <strong>the</strong><br />

Athinios Port and sail <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> north,<br />

along red cliffs of <strong>the</strong> Caldera.<br />

During this cruise you will have<br />

opportunity <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> cliffs close<br />

and distinguish horizontal lines<br />

which are layers of volcanic ashes<br />

built after subsequent eruptions of<br />

<strong>the</strong> volcano.


The boat will approach <strong>the</strong> magnificent<br />

rock of Skaros in Imerovigli. Along <strong>the</strong><br />

way from Imerovigli <strong>to</strong> Oia you will have<br />

opportunity <strong>to</strong> take pictures of numerous<br />

caves in <strong>the</strong> rocks of <strong>the</strong> Caldera. The<br />

boat will pass next <strong>to</strong> picturesque harbor<br />

Armeni and Ammoudi in Oia, <strong>the</strong>n it will<br />

turn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> west, approaching <strong>the</strong> island<br />

Thirassia which is actually <strong>the</strong> remnant<br />

of <strong>the</strong> western shore of <strong>the</strong> prehis<strong>to</strong>ric<br />

Stroggili. Thirassia has approximately 200<br />

inhabitants and only three villages.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> return <strong>the</strong> boat will pass next <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

volcano. The bigger island is called Nea<br />

Kameni (New Burnt) which is <strong>the</strong> youngest<br />

volcanic structure in Mediterranean. The<br />

youngest lavas on this island are no more<br />

than 60 years old! Smaller Palea Kameni is<br />

located just next <strong>to</strong> it. Around <strong>the</strong>ir shores<br />

are numerous hot springs, rich in sulphur.<br />

In proximity of <strong>the</strong> small harbor of Nea<br />

Kameni is a church of Ag. Taxiarchos.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> back side of <strong>the</strong> volcano is ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

church, dedicated <strong>to</strong> Saint Nicolas.<br />

Looking at <strong>the</strong> black unfriendly lava of<br />

Kameni islands it is hard <strong>to</strong> believe that about 40 species of plants found here <strong>the</strong>ir Eldorado.<br />

And even more: in red, <strong>the</strong>rmal waters of Kameni was identified iron bacteria and it is strongly<br />

suggested that <strong>the</strong> same one can survive on Mars…<br />

Estimated duration of <strong>the</strong> trip:<br />

The cruise takes approximately 2 hours and despite <strong>the</strong> volcanic activity of <strong>the</strong> site, we<br />

promise <strong>to</strong> drop you off safe and sound at <strong>the</strong> harbor of Athinios.<br />

Bus transportation Fira - Athinios takes about 20-30 minutes one way.<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus S<strong>to</strong>p:<br />

In front of <strong>the</strong> Kamari Tours<br />

Transfer office (opposite <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

football field). Drop-off and pickup<br />

for return from <strong>the</strong> excavations<br />

– parking area on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of Mesa<br />

Vouno.<br />

Brief characteristics:<br />

Ancient Tira is <strong>the</strong> second most<br />

important ancient site in San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

after <strong>the</strong> Minoan City of Akr<strong>to</strong>iri.<br />

ANCIENT THIRA<br />

91


The excavations here, began in 1896<br />

by Baron Hiller von Gaertringen in<br />

<strong>the</strong> area of Mesa Vouno, brought <strong>to</strong><br />

light <strong>the</strong> ruins of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn founded<br />

by <strong>the</strong> exiled Spartan King Thiras.<br />

Mesa Vouno is 369 m high and is<br />

located at <strong>the</strong> SW end of <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

It predates <strong>the</strong> volcanic formation of<br />

<strong>the</strong> island and plunges steeply down<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea, dividing <strong>the</strong> beaches of<br />

Kamari on <strong>the</strong> north and Perissa on<br />

<strong>the</strong> south.<br />

This naturally fortified high ground<br />

was a perfect place for <strong>the</strong> Spartan<br />

King and his followers <strong>to</strong> build<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir city.<br />

Founded in 11th century BC this settlement became ancient capital of <strong>the</strong> island. They built<br />

<strong>the</strong> road leading <strong>to</strong> Kamari, where <strong>the</strong>y had <strong>the</strong>ir port (Ancient Oia). Their second important<br />

port, ancient Eleusina, was located on <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn part of Mesa Vouno. The excavations<br />

cover an area around 800 m long and 150 m wide. The public buildings were constructed from<br />

limes<strong>to</strong>ne blocks, a plentiful material on <strong>the</strong> island, while private houses were made of small<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes. There was a great wall surrounding <strong>the</strong> city, part of which can be seen <strong>to</strong>day. Visi<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

can walk along narrow streets and see <strong>the</strong> marketplace in <strong>the</strong> centre of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn, <strong>the</strong> royal<br />

arcade and <strong>the</strong> amphi<strong>the</strong>atre, which was used also as <strong>the</strong> Parliament.<br />

See also: KAMARI – page 40.<br />

A leaflet <strong>with</strong> detailed description<br />

of <strong>the</strong> excavations site is available<br />

in Kamari Tours offices.<br />

Estimated time for sightseeing:<br />

Approximately 1 hour. Bus trip is<br />

about 15 min one way.<br />

Nearest <strong>to</strong>urist interest spot:<br />

Zoodochos Pigi – spring of sweet<br />

water in <strong>the</strong> cave, about 20 min<br />

walk from <strong>the</strong> parking area near<br />

excavations, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> N.<br />

92


HEAD OFFICE – KAMARI<br />

SANTORINI GR-84 700<br />

Tel. Centre : +30 22860 31390 kamari<strong>to</strong>urs@san.forthnet.gr<br />

Transfer Dept.: + 30 22860 32751 www.kamari<strong>to</strong>urs.gr<br />

Fax : + 30 22860 32750<br />

BRANCHES : KAMARI - FIRA – PERISSA – KARTERADOS<br />

KAMARI TOURS SERVICES :<br />

• Acommodation<br />

• Transfers<br />

• Tour & Cruises<br />

• Car rental<br />

• Tour-opera<strong>to</strong>rs representation<br />

• Group Tourism & Student Tourism<br />

• Cruise ships handlings & on shore excursions<br />

• Air charter handling<br />

• Conferences & Incentives<br />

• Wedding arrangements<br />

•<br />

V.I.P. services<br />

93


Jump <strong>with</strong> <strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong><br />

from village <strong>to</strong> village!<br />

Explore each village<br />

as long as you like!<br />

Discover San<strong>to</strong>rini<br />

in one day <strong>with</strong><br />

<strong>SMART</strong> <strong>Buses</strong><br />

only for 11,00 €<br />

Ticket for 1 day<br />

11,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 2 days<br />

17,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 4 days<br />

27,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 1 day<br />

8,00 €<br />

Choosing ONE of<br />

<strong>the</strong> following Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

94<br />

Ticket for 3 days<br />

22,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 5 days<br />

32,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 1 Roundtrip<br />

ONLY for BLUE Line:<br />

ANCIENT THIRA<br />

10,00 €<br />

Ticket for 6 days<br />

36,00 €<br />

Including Lines:<br />

Red / Orange / Yellow<br />

Ticket for 1 Trip<br />

ONLY for PURPLE Line:<br />

SIGHTSEEING CRUISE<br />

13,00 €


Êüêêéíç Ðáñáëßá<br />

Red Beach<br />

5<br />

ÖçñÜ<br />

Fira<br />

5<br />

The lost<br />

Atlantis<br />

95


96<br />

LEGEND TO THE MAPS<br />

M-M<br />

<strong>SMART</strong> Bus s<strong>to</strong>p<br />

Cave house<br />

Mansion (archontiko)<br />

Church<br />

Church in a cave<br />

Ruins<br />

Windmill<br />

Canava / Winery<br />

Toma<strong>to</strong> fac<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Café / Ouzerie<br />

Tavern / Restaurant<br />

Grill / Souvlaki<br />

Pizza / Creperie<br />

Mini-Market<br />

Traditional products sale<br />

Bakery<br />

Pastry s<strong>to</strong>re<br />

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS:<br />

INTERNATIONAL ACCESS CODE FOR GREECE: +30<br />

Police<br />

22860 22649<br />

Hospital<br />

22860 23123<br />

Airport<br />

22860 31525<br />

Port Authority<br />

22860 22239<br />

Cus<strong>to</strong>ms<br />

22860 22230<br />

Post Office<br />

22860 22238<br />

Tourist Police<br />

171<br />

Taxi Station<br />

First Aid Stations:<br />

22860 22555<br />

22860 23951<br />

- Fira<br />

22860 22237<br />

- Emporio<br />

22860 81222<br />

- Kamari<br />

22860 31175<br />

- Oia<br />

22860 71227<br />

- Pyrgos<br />

22860 31207<br />

Left Luggage and Lockers Service<br />

(Fira)<br />

22860 22220

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