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00 ItMa 2011 (exclusive Feature) - Textile Magazine

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itMA <strong>2011</strong> [<strong>exclusive</strong> feature]<br />

Mr. REInE wASnER,<br />

Executive Vice President, Marketing and Business Development<br />

3 yarn clearer, 1<strong>00</strong> per cent of the<br />

produced yarn can be tested for key<br />

quality parameters. On the one hand,<br />

this identifies production problems<br />

for further machine setting optimization,<br />

while on the other hand it<br />

prevents faults in the final product<br />

by removing any remaining disturbing<br />

defects. In addition, it allows for<br />

constant monitoring of production<br />

to ensure that the final product is<br />

of consistent quality within defined<br />

limits – any ‘outliers’ from these<br />

limits caused by defective bobbins<br />

are identified, and corrective action<br />

can be taken.<br />

The root causes of problems identified<br />

during clearing (process step<br />

/ machine / individual spindle) can<br />

only be found through additional<br />

laboratory tests. Thus the Total<br />

Testing loop is completed.<br />

From varying to consistent quality<br />

Another feature of Total Testing<br />

82 | ThE TEXTILE MAGAZINE OCTOBER <strong>2011</strong><br />

is its ability to progress from varying<br />

and random quality to consistent<br />

quality. The required quality can<br />

occasionally be achieved through a<br />

combination of experience and luck,<br />

but such an approach never leads<br />

to consistent success. Natural cotton<br />

variations and differing production<br />

conditions mean that even the<br />

best raw material and machinery are<br />

not a guarantee of consistent quality.<br />

Consistent quality depends on<br />

managing the available resources<br />

in accordance with quality and cost<br />

parameters and making decisions<br />

based on facts, data and know-how.<br />

Uster Technologies Ltd. is the<br />

only company to provide both the<br />

application know-how and the complete<br />

range of laboratory testing and<br />

process monitoring instruments to<br />

minimize waste and cost, while at<br />

the same time reproducing an article<br />

to a specified quality, time after<br />

time. Quality parameters based on<br />

tests conducted in the lab, together<br />

with the results from clearing (Uster<br />

QUANTUM 3) give clear indications<br />

of how to choose the right mix<br />

of raw material and set the machine<br />

for consistent quality. Any quality<br />

exceptions, such as uneven yarn<br />

or wrong counts or contaminants,<br />

are monitored all the while and removed<br />

at the winding machine, assuring<br />

stable quality for customers.<br />

Built-in know-how and smart software<br />

(e.g., Uster QUANTUM EX-<br />

PERT 3) enable further optimization<br />

opportunities across machines (ideal<br />

settings / machine performance<br />

comparisons), between production<br />

sites and incrementally over time for<br />

an entire mill.<br />

From subjective to objective quality<br />

Among the biggest and most costly<br />

problems in textiles are claims for<br />

below-par quality – and the adverse<br />

effect they have on the trust between<br />

buyers and sellers. Indications are<br />

that quality-related costs in the textile<br />

value chain can amount to as<br />

much as 6% of a retailer’s total revenue<br />

(based on retailer statements).<br />

The issue is two-faceted: the actual<br />

quality and the perceived quality.<br />

And unless a common reference or<br />

benchmark is used, agreement will<br />

never be achieved and the producer<br />

will always get the rough end of the<br />

stick.<br />

More than 50 years ago Uster<br />

Technologies established the first<br />

quality standard specifically for textiles,<br />

Uster STATISTICS, providing<br />

quality references that enable<br />

the classification of fibers, slivers,<br />

roving, and all kinds of yarns (cotton,<br />

synthetic and cellulosic) based<br />

on data from producers around the

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