Angelina Jolie's Sudan Journal - UNHCR

UNHCR/ R. EkThe pots are left behind smashed and covered in dirt. I see a little shoe in theground. I wonder if it fell off when a little boy was running. Walk into a burneddown hut. Clear glass catches my eye. I uncover it. It is an oil lamp. Next to it is awoman’s bracelet. It is a charred piece of metal. I ask if I can take it. I want toremember. “Of course,” he glances around, “who would mind? If you see anycows,” (I don’t) “but if you go up the road, you see they belong to nomads.”Adam from UNHCR tells me his village was also destroyed. It was near ElGeneina. “Completely damaged in less than week.” He was a school teacher. Iwould hope UNHCR would help him organize the children, if only to lecture thechildren under the trees on a chalkboard. The other UNHCR staff says thatUNICEF is helping in some areas and they hope to ask them to come here.We drive by a pack of camels. They are Janjaweed camels. A man with a gunwalks with them. Their animals look strong and healthy. Not all animals in Darfurare Janjaweed. Of course most are. I ask how you tell the Janjawed from thelocal Arabs. “A common misconception is to refer to them as Arab vs. African.They appear the same.” To me they all look African.We drive to stop at the clinic in Habila, set up next to the children’s schools. MSFSwitzerland and Save the Children USA. Also a sign says: USAID is present.MSF walks us around. Between 70 and 120 per day are treated. 23% aresuffering from hepatitis – a water-borne disease. Much dysentery and malaria.They have been here four months. Organized outpatient, pharmacy andmaternity ward. If a patient needs to be sent to a local hospital, MSF covers the20