Winter - Classical Mileend Alpacas

“The highly decorative costumes that are associated with the ladies of the Colca Valley have evolved over
time and, using fi bres of alpaca, llama, wool and cotton, have many variations and nuances. The daily
costumes for both Collaguas and Cabanas alike are essentially practical and designed above all else to give
maximum protection against the sun in the day and the cold which commences from mid to late afternoon.”
LADIES’ COSTUMES AND USAGE
The highly decorative costumes that are associated with the
ladies of the Colca Valley have evolved over time and, using
fi bres of alpaca, llama, wool and cotton, have many variations
and nuances. The daily costumes for both Collaguas and Cabanas
alike are essentially practical and designed above all else to
give maximum protection against the sun in the day and the cold
which commences from mid to late afternoon. Typically, a highnecked
and long-sleeved blouse is worn with an embroidered
waistcoat on the upper body whilst up to three layers of skirt
(depending on the climatic conditions) are worn below. Opentoed
sandals complete the outfi t. Often the outer skirt has a deep
frontal pocket in which seeds can be carried at sowing time or
hand-spinning distaffs and fi bre etc. As always, the headwear is
either the Collagua banded straw hat or the Cabana embroidered
cloth model.
For ‘fi estas’ the same ensemble is worn but with much more
decoration and embroidery. In all cases the embroidery is unique
to the individual wearer but always follows the same theme of
pictorial representation of the fauna and fl ora of the Colca Valley.
These days there is a tendency to mix the two cultures where
a Collagua may wear the costume of a Cabana and vice versa
but one thing remains sacred and that is each one’s respective
headwear which is never interchanged.
ALPACA TEXTILE TRADITIONS
The many millennia of alpaca and llama farming in the region
have pervaded the daily routine of the womenfolk from raising
the animals to crafting textiles from their fi bre which still
dominates the greater part of their lives today. Being mainly
Quechua speakers, the textile terminology that they use
today to describe their art is a mix of both the Quechua and
Spanish languages (a sort of ‘Tex-Mex’). The clothing that
they produce is mainly woven, as opposed to knitted, and
employs hand-spun yarns and I list below a glossary of the
most common processes/products:
Hand-spinner Phuscadora
Hand-weaver Awadora
Narrow Tape/Braid Weaver Simpadora
Hand-plaited Alpaca/Llama Leading Reins Jaquimas
The skills that are passed on from generation to generation are
so highly-prized that it is not uncommon for contests to be arranged
in order that ‘champions’ may emerge from demonstrating their
talents in competition. These generally take place at important
feast days throughout the Colca Region and are not only confi ned to
women as men may be challenged to compete with them as well.
Likewise, contestants from regions outside of the Colca – such as
Cusco, Juliaca and Puno – are often invited to participate.
Whereas the way of life of the alpaca and llama farmers and their
families has changed very little during the past four hundred years
since the Spanish Conquest, there is growing evidence that the pace
of change has been accelerating during the most recent ten years.
Although the region is somewhat cut-off geographically
from mainstream Peru, improved roads and land-line telephone
connections are bringing the modern world to the Colca Valley’s
doorstep. Naturally, with these developments comes tourism
where the number of visitors is increasing every year and which
is an important incentive for the alpaca ladies to maintain their
traditional costumes and increase the production of their textile
handcrafts to serve this relatively new and steadily-growing
market demand. •
Middle above: Hand-spinners
(phuscadoras) competing in a
contest in Chivay.
Above right: From left to
right are Deyanira Rodriguez,
Amparo Lopez and Maria
Luisa Huarca dressed in
traditional ‘fi esta’ costumes of
the Colca Valley.
Alpaca World Magazine Autumn 2004/05 31