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Dinner at a Friend’s HouseI live downtown, I’m an urbanist, and if New York can’t be had, a similar set of culturalhigh notes certainly can be. I put on some good-looking shoes and walk to a bar for adrink, in my case, Junior’s Tavern, where I order a dirty gin martini with Bombay. ThenI walk less than a block east to The Broadway Theatre, where, if there’s time, my friendand I will see a film after we eat at The Copper Onion, which sits directly in front andbeside the cinema. It is, for me, one of Salt Lake’s no-brainer evenings.If I had to eat out every day, and could only pick one place in town to eat at, it wouldbe The Copper Onion. No doubt. Though, The New Yorker or Tin Angel would also fitthe bill ... if there were no Copper Onion. The Copper Onion’s food flies against thewind of contemporary dining—it is simple, serious and from scratch. While one couldcomplain that it is almost sentimentally traditional—think homemade fruit cream piesand hand-minced meat loaf—it’s tradition from a time passed and a place gone. I feelless like I am in a restaurant, and more that I am at a friend’s house, and they reallyknow how to cook the hell out of cooking.There is a sense of intimacy that this restaurant provides, which dark tables and lots ofwine can only imitate, though a lot of wine is no bad idea. The wine list here is simpleenough, and the servers know the stuff soup to nuts, never just pushing the priciest sip,but the one that they think will be just right. Priced between six and 11 dollars, a glass ofwine is dead on target, but if you have friendsto share it with, a bottle is always better—andcheaper—by the drink.If you are alone, eat at the bar—it’s the bestseat in the house. The chef and crew don’tput on a show for you: They perform a craftthat has the beauty of labor and the graceof intelligence highlighting its ongoing event.They are focused and as one. It is a thing ofbeauty to see just how simple great cookingcan be, and here it can be seen.There are four different menus at The CopperOnion: brunch, lunch, late afternoon anddinner. The brunch is one of downtown’sbest, if for no other reason than it is servedon Saturday and Sunday. The Bloody Marys(5.00) are just fine, and until recently, theHuevos Rancheros (9.00) had pork belly inthem, which was wonderful and memorable,though now they are using pulled pork, whichis delicious, too, but not as special. They arenonetheless my current favorite version of thisgreat meal. The Frittata (7.00) is excellent, asone might expect, with a particularly creamyfinish and the lingering taste of sharp cheeseand garlic. The French Toast (8.00), too, willimpress enough that you will tell your coworkerabout it on Monday.Lunch here is, as it is the case with mostrestaurants, an abbreviated and economicalversion of dinner. It is the one meal thatseems a little pro forma, if you will, whichis too bad, because everything else hereseems so meditated. I would love to seesome farm-style noon food done with highendgrace—a casserole, or an imaginativecheese sandwich with soup, or a roastedchicken with vegetables. The Copper OnionBurger (11.00) is a great hamburger for thesame price as the so-so hamburgers in othersit-down joints downtown. The Meatloaf(9.00 for lunch, 17.00 for dinner) featureslamb, beef and pork, all locally sourced andPhoto: Barrett DoranBy Heck Fork Griefinfo@slugmag.comground for this particular meal. It has aparticularity of texture and breadth offlavor not often found in my meatloaflovingworld.All the dinner entrees come with somesmall side, but it is worth your time to trya small plate or two before your entree.The house pickles (3.00) are salty andsnappy. The Pleasant Creek RanchWaygu Bone Marrow (12.00) is here foryour inner foodie to take home a newexperience. Served with a baguette, it isa must-try if you haven’t. The RomaineSalad (8.00) is a sexy and well thoughtoutCeasar salad. The Pork Belly Salad(11.00) … Is it Turkish in inspiration? Oris it Deep South? It is a go-to, whereverit comes from.The Waygu Stroganoff from Copper Onion isone of our food critic’s favorite meals ever.111 E. BroadwaySte. 170Salt Lake City, UT 84111BrunchSat.-Sun. 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m.LunchMon.- Fri. 11:30 a.m.-– 3 p.m.DinnerSun.-Thurs. 4 p.m.-10 p.m.Fri.-Sat 4 p.m.-11 p.m.Afternoon Menu7 days a week 3 p.m.-4 p.m.T: 801.355.3282thecopperonion.comThe Waygu Stroganoff (19.00) is one ofmy favorite meals ever. It’s platonic in itsgreatness, but expensive, consideringhow hungry I feel seconds after I getdone with it. The Ricotta Dumplings(9.00) are strictly three par golf, and,though tasty enough, there just isn’tenough there for my fat Americanappetite. The Lamb Shank (18.00) isalways good, but not always available—get it if you see it. The Clear SpringsFarm Trout Filet (17.00) is a locallysourced fish served with skill andpanache. Trout bores me, but this hereis some fine water steak.For goodness sakes, order dessert.It’s house-made, and it’s really good. Ihave been ordering the various scratchcream pies (7.00) during these reviewmeals. Dessert is an expenditure Igenerally avoid at restaurants becausemost serve industrial product, plasticcrap. These guys don’t.For the past year or so, dining at thistrendy, hipster-sharp but friendly cafehas provided me with a number oftranscendental experiences both infood and society. I will be reconsideringmy several dinners here with a warm,if intoxicated, memory and fondnessfor years to come, and, though theywill not fill my body with calories,these memories will fill my soul withsome sense that I have lived well andbeautifully.16 SaltLakeUnderGround slugmag.com 17