lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdWelcome toMyanmar(Burma)Surreal & TraditionalTo travel here is to encounter men wearingskirt-like longyi, women smotheredin thanakha (traditional make-up) andbetel-chewing grannies with mouths fullof blood-red juice – and that’s just at theairport! One of the most fascinating aspectsof travel in Myanmar is the opportunity toexperience a corner of Asia that, in manyways, has changed little since British colonialtimes. Myanmar, for instance, has yetto be completely overwhelmed by Westernclothing. It’s also a country of many incredibleand sometimes surreal sites. Contemplatethe 4000 sacred stupas scatteredacross the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbeliefat the Golden Rock teetering impossibly onthe edge of a chasm. Ride a horse cart pastcolonial-era mansions. Meet multitalentedmonks who have taught their cats to jump,or feisty elderly Chin women, their facestattooed with intricate designs.Simple PleasuresTurn back the clock with a trip to thistime-warped country where there’s no suchthing as a 7-Eleven or an ATM, and peoplestill use horse and cart to get around. Liberateyourself from your mobile phone (itwon’t work here) and the internet (you canget online, but connections are sloooow)and discover a culture where holy men aremore revered than rock stars. Drift downthe Ayeyarwady in an old river steamer,

KIMBERLEY COOLE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©‘This is Burma’, wroteRudyard Kipling. ‘It is quiteunlike any place you knowabout.’ How right he was:more than a century laterMyanmar remains a worldapart.3(left) Umin Thounzeh (p 229 ), Sagaing Hill(below) Fresh produce at a Nyaung U marketPETER STUCKINGS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bayof Bengal, or trek through pine forests tominority villages scattered across the ShanHills. Dig into the myriad dishes of the localcuisine, from a hearty bowl of mohinganoodles for breakfast to the fermented tealeafmixture that’s a popular finish to a Burmesemeal. Swap cocktails and canapés forsnacks and tea sweetened with condensedmilk at teahouses where you can shoot thebreeze with locals.The Ethical DimensionYou no doubt know that Myanmar is atroubled land. In 2011, following the previousyear’s election, a quasi-civilian governmentwas sworn in and Aung San Suu Kyi,at the time of research, had been releasedfrom house arrest. The tourism boycott thatpersuaded many to steer clear of the countryfor over a decade has been lifted. It’s stillup to you to decide whether it’s time to visit(see p 21 ). Keep in mind that the long-sufferingpeople are everything the regime isnot. Gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate,inquisitive and passionate, they want toplay a part in the world, and to know whatyou make of their world. Yes, this is Burma –come with your mind open and you’ll leavewith your heart full.

10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©Shwedagon PayaIs there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the1 sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s gilded masterpiece may even cause you to questionyour inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p 43 ) is equal partsreligious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordinationceremony or fantastic fortune-telling session. If you’re looking for one reason to linger in Yangon(Rangoon) before heading upcountry, this is it.

SARA-JANE CLELAND/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©7Inle LakeVirtually every visitor to Myanmar (Burma) makes it here at some point, but Inle Lake (p 177 )2 is so awe-inspiring and large that everybody comes away with a different experience. If you’recounting days, you’ll most likely be hitting the hotspots: water-bound temples, shore-boundmarkets and floating gardens. If you have more time, consider day hikes or exploring the moreremote corners of the lake. Either way, the cool weather and friendly folk and that placid pool ofink-like water are bound to find a permanent place in your memory.ANDERS BLOMQVIST/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©BaganMore than 3000 Buddhist temples are scattered across the plains of Bagan (Pagan; p 149 ),3 site of the first Burmese kingdom. Dating back to between the 11th and 13th centuries, the vastmajority of the temples have been renovated, as Bagan remains an active religious site and placeof pilgrimage. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the most popular sunset-viewing spots, butthey can be avoided. Pedal off on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruinedtemples, or float over the temple tops in a hot-air balloon. Buddhist monks, Ananda Pahto Festival

Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p 250 ) is a one-off curiosity that makes for an easy escape from sweaty4 lowland Mandalay. As the former British-era summer capital, it retains a wide scattering of colonialbuildings big and small and a remarkable botanical garden that’s one of Southeast Asia’s mostmanicured. Today, local tourists and a new generation of elite fleeing the heat are treated to some ofprovincial Myanmar’s best cuisine and most imaginative hotels. And to give it all a photogenic twist,the local taxi service is by colourful horse and cart. National Kandawgyi Gardens, Pyin Oo LwinBERNARD NAPTHINE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©Mrauk U5While exploring the many temples, monasteries and ruined city walls of the former Rakhaingcapital of Mrauk U (Myohaung; p 279 ), you realise what an amazing place this sleepy townwas at its zenith in the 16th century. Giant structures such as the Dukkanthein Paya and KothaungPaya appear even more impressive amid the beguiling rural landscape of gently rounded hills andvegetable fields, through which the locals weave their way, aluminium water pots balanced on theirheads. Stay an extra day and travel by boat to the Chin villages (p 286 ) scattered along the LemroRiver. Pagoda in the hills, Mrauk UDENNIS WALTON/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

ZAW MIN YU/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©ThingyanMyanmar in April is so hot that you’ll enjoy getting soaked at Thingyan ( Water Festival; p 343 ),6 which marks the start of the country’s new-year celebration. The festival involves lots ofdrinking, dancing, singing and theatre, with the emphasis on satire – even making (careful!) funof the government. Cultural taboos are temporarily lifted, so women can ‘kidnap’ young men,blacken the men’s faces with soot or oil, bind their hands and dunk their heads in buckets of wateruntil they surrender and perform a hilarious monkey dance.

Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of salt the story about this beautiful beach reminding a homesick Italian of7 Naples. From its gently swaying palms, luxury resorts and appealing guesthouses to its pristinesands, tempting blue waters and delicious seafood caught fresh each day by local fishermen,Ngapali (p 270 ) is the antithesis of the Italian city. Enjoy it for what it is: the perfect getaway and achance to wind down – sunbathing, snorkelling and sipping fresh coconut juice as an ox-drawn carttrundles slowly across the fine, soft sand.FRANK CARTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©HsipawAttractive Hsipaw (p 258 ) is ideally placed for quick, easy hikes into fascinating Shan and8 Palaung villages. The town’s handful of guides offer just enough English-speaking help to makethe experience comfortable, while the whole region feels far less ‘discovered’ than that aroundKalaw. Hsipaw itself is a historic little town. It was once home to Shan princes and has its own(very) ‘Little Bagan’ of historic stupas. Fill out a few interesting days here with visits to a curiousassortment of local, house-sized factories. Palaung homeTOM SMITH

12Need toKnowCurrency» Burmese kyat (K)Language» BurmeseWhen to GoYou r Da i lyBudgetBudget less than$50»Guesthouse: $10–20Mandalay Pyin Oo Lwin##GO Nov-Feb GO Nov-Feb#Mrauk UBagan#GO Oct-MarGO Nov-FebWarm to hot summers, mild wintersTropical climate, wet dry seasonsYangonGO Nov-Jan#» Local restaurant orstreet-stall meal: $1–3» Travel on buses: $1–5Midrange$50–100» Double room ina midrange hotel:$20–60» Two-course meal inmidrange restaurant:$3–15» Hiring a guide: $10per day»Puppet: $10–50High Season(Dec–Feb)» Rains least (if at allin places) and is notso hot.Shoulder (Oct–Nov, Mar–Apr)» March to MayYangon often reaches104ºF (40ºC). Areasaround Bagan andMandalay are hotter.» Cooler in the hilltowns of Shan State.» All forms oftransport bookedsolid during Thingyanin April.Low Season(May–Sep)» The southwestmonsoon starts mid-May and peaks fromJuly to September.»The dry zonebetween Mandalayand Pyay gets the leastrain. Rain can makeroads impassableanywhere (especiallyin the delta region).Top end over$100» Double room in topendhotel: $60–500» Two course mealrestaurant plus bottleof wine: $20–30» Driver and guide:$100 per day» Fine lacquerwarebowl: $200

13TransportMoney» Cash only. Creditcards generally notaccepted. Bring onlypristine US bills forexchange.Visas» Needed by everyone.Maximum stay 28 days,non-extendable.Mobile Phones» No internationalroaming. Prepaid SIMcards available forlocally bought phones.» Buses and trains –both are pretty slow,especially trains.Flights to major touristspots can get bookedup quickly in highseason.Websites» Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com)Good for pre-planning.» Irrawaddy (www.irrawaddy.org)Thailand-based newsand features site.» Myanmar ImageGallery (www.myanmar-image.com)Pictures and text onmyriad Myanmarrelatedsubjects.» Online Burma/Myanmar Library(www.burmalibrary.org) Database of booksand past articles onMyanmar.» Demoractic Voice ofBurma (www.dvb.no)Norway-based mediaorganisation.Exchange RatesThe US dollar is the only foreign currencythat’s readily exchanged and/or acceptedas payment for goods and services. Theofficial exchange rate (US$1 equals aroundK6.5) is less than a tenth of the black-marketrate, so do not change money at airportexchange booths or at banks. The best placesto change money in Yangon are BogyokeAung San Market (p 67 ) and your hotel.Recent black-market rates in Yangon:Australia A$1 K750Europe €1 K1050Japan ¥100K9UK UK£1 K1200USUS$1K785Important NumbersCountry code %95International access code %00Ambulance (Yangon) %192Fire (Yangon) %191Police (Yangon) %199Arriving inMyanmarYangon InternationalAirport If you haven’tpre-arranged a transferwith you hotel or travelagent, a taxi from theairport to the citycentre will be $8. Bringsingle bills with you(see below) so that youdon’t have to changemoney in the airport.Also see p 71 .Cash-Only EconomyMyanmar ATMS don't accept international cards. With few exceptions, credit cards and travellerscheques aren't accepted either. Budget carefully and get the right kind of bills beforeyour plane lands in Yangon. Otherwise, you'll end up in financial trouble.US dollar bills must be 2006 or later bills that have colour and are in absolutely perfectcondition: no folds, stamps, stains, writing marks or tears. On the black market, $100 billsget a better rate of exchange than lower values ones – but bring some of those, too.We know of only one Yangon hotel (Parkroyal; p 53 ) that is willing to provide cash againsta credit card, but it does so at 12% commission. For more on money matters, see p 364 .

14If YouLike…Buddhas &TemplesMyanmar is one of the mostdevout Buddhist countriesin the world. Yangon’sShwedagon Paya, Mandalay’sMahamuni Paya andBagan’s plain of templesshouldn’t be missed, butthere are also many otherlesser-known Buddhist religioussites that will impressyou with their beauty andspirituality.Pyay (Prome) A 10-storeys tall,seated buddha watches overPyay’s hilltop Shwesandaw Paya,providing sweeping views of thetown (p 143 )Win Sein Taw Ya Gawp at the560ft-long buddha recliningon the lush hillsides of YadanaTaung, accessible from Mawlamyine(p 102 )Mrauk U (Myohaung) Fall underthe spell of the old Rakhaingcapital, dotted with ruined andrestored temples and monasteries(p 279 )Sagaing Leafy paths shade theroutes to 500 hilltop and riversidestupas and a communityof some 6000 monks and nuns(p 228 )Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)Join the pilgrims as they fix goldleaf squares on this incrediblebalancing boulder (p 93 )Food & DrinkNot as spicy as other SoutheastAsian food, Myanmar’scuisine reflects its multiculturalmix of people. Withthe offerings ranging fromShan-style rice-noodle curriesand soups to tamarind-flakesweets in Bagan and freshgrilled seafood in RakhaingState, you’re sure to findsomething new and delicious.Street eats There are streetvendors serving great, cheapsnacks and meals everywhere inMyanmar, but the best selectionis in Yangon (p 61 )Tea time Breakfast or anafternoon snack at a Myanmarteahouse is a unique experiencethat provides more than a caffeinatedkick (p 334 )Cooking classes Learn how tocook like a native at classes inBagan (p114 )Alcoholic beverages Raise aglass of toddy (p 333 ) madefrom the sap of the palm, orwine produced from Shan Hillsgrapes (p191 )Superfresh Seafood At NgapaliBeach's restaurants (p 285 ) dineon fish and shellfish caught thesame day in the Bay of BengalEthnic Variations Hunt out JingHpaw Thu (p 237 ) in Myitkyinafor authentic Kachin food, orShan specialties at Shan Restaurant(p 190 ) in TaunggyiHandicrafts &ShoppingGoing on a shopping spreeof Myanmar’s fine range ofhandicrafts is one of the bestways of ensuring your touristdollars benefit the peoplerather than the military. It’salso a wonderful eye-openerto browse one of the manylocal markets selling freshproduce and everyday items,photogenically laid out bystallholders.Markets Drop by Yangon’sBogyoke Aung San Market (p 67 )for handicrafts from around thecountry, and the central marketsin Pyay (p 143 ) or Sittwe (p 275 )for colourful, lively shoppingscenesLacquerware Watch artisanscraft, paint and engravelovely bowls, cups and otherornaments at workshops inMyinkaba (p 123 ), New Bagan(p 125 ) and Kengtung (p 196 )Parasols Keep the sun off withthe graceful, painted paperumbrellas that are a specialty ofPathein (p79 )Puppets If you enjoyed theclassic marionette shows inMandalay, why not adopt apuppet character of your own(p 218 )

16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festival (Thingyan),mid-AprilTaungbyone Nat Pwe Festival,August or early SeptemberIndependence Day, 4 JanuaryTazaungmon, Octoberor NovemberAnanda Pahto Festival,JanuaryNearly every active paya(Buddhist temple) or kyaung(Buddhist monastery)community hosts occasionalcelebrations of their own,often called paya pwe or‘pagoda festivals’. Manyoccur on full-moon daysand nights from January toMarch, following the mainrice harvest, but the buildupcan last for a while. Allsuch festivals follow the12-month lunar calendar(p 368 ) and so their celebrationcan shift between twomonths from year to year.JanuaryPeak season and, ifChinese New Year fallswithin the month, evenbusier with local touristsand those from theregion. Plan well ahead tosecure transport ticketsand hotels of choice.Note New Year’s Day isnot a public holiday inMyanmar.z IndependenceDayCelebrating the end ofcolonial rule in Burma,this major public holidayon 4 January is marked bynationwide fairs, includinga week-long one at KandawgyiLake (p 48 ) in Yangon.Manao Festivalz Costumed dancing,copious drinking of ricebeer and 29 cows or buffalosacrificed to propitiate nats(traditional spirits) are partof this Kachin State Dayevent, held in Myitkyina on10 January (p 236 )Ananda Pahtoz FestivalStretching over a coupleof weeks in January (butsometimes in December,depending on the Myanmarlunar calendar) this is oneof the biggest religious festivalsin Bagan (p 158 ).FebruaryStill a busy travelseason, with the weatherbeginning to get warmer.If Chinese New Yearhappens to fall in thismonth, watch out for aboost in travel activity.z ShwedagonFestivalThe lunar month ofTabaung ( which can also fallin March) signals the startof the Shwedagon Festival(p 51 ), the largest paya pwein Myanmar.AprilWhile joining in the waterfrolics of Thingyan canbe fun, note that it’ssteaming hot in Myanmarduring this month. Also,with many locals off workand on the move duringthe New Year celebrations,securing transport,booking hotels and evenfinding a restaurant openfor a meal can be tricky –plan well ahead!z Buddha’sBirthdayThe full-moon day of Kason(falling in April or May)is celebrated as Buddha’sbirthday, the day of his enlightenmentand the day heentered nibbana (nirvana).Watering ceremonies areconducted at banyan treeswithin temple and monasterygrounds.Water Festivalz ( Thingyan)Lasting from three days to aweek, depending on whetherthe holiday falls over aweekend, this celebration

welcomes in Myanmar’sNew Year. See p 11 and p 343for more details.Dawei Thingyanz The male residentsof the tropical seaside townof Dawei (Tavoy; p 110 ) donhuge, 13ft bamboo-frameeffigies and dance down thestreets to the beat of the kalakodaun,an Indian drum.JunePack your raincoat and asturdy umbrella, as thismonth Myanmar is dousedby monsoon rains. Roadscan be flooded and flightsto coastal destinationsare sharply reduced.Start of thez Buddhist RainsRetreatThe full moon of Waso isthe beginning of the threemonthBuddhist RainsRetreat (aka ‘BuddhistLent’), when young menenter monasteries and nomarriages take place. Priorto the full-moon day, a robeofferingceremony to monksis performed.AugustThe monsoon is still in fullswing so be prepared fordamp days and transporthitches.z TaungbyoneNat PweMyanmar’s most famous animistcelebration is held atTaungbyone, 13 miles northof Mandalay (see p 210 ) andattracts thousands of revellers,many of them homosexualor transgender.SeptemberThe rainy season starts towind down. Watch out forboat races in places suchas Inle Lake.z ThadingyutMarking the end ofBuddhist Lent, this festivalof lights celebrates the descentof Buddha from heaven.People place candlesin their windows and it’s apopular time for weddingsand monk pilgrimages.OctoberRain still a possibility butthat means everything isvery green – making this agreat time to visit Bagan,for example.z TazaungdaingThe full-moonnight of Tazaungmon(which can also fall in November),known as Tazaungdaing,is a second ‘festival oflights’, particularly famousfor the fire-balloon competitionsin Taunggyi (see p 189 ).NovemberThe start of the maintourist season sees coolerweather and still-lushlandscapes.National Dayz Held on the waningof Tazaungmon (usuallyin late November), this publicholiday celebrates studentprotests back in 1920,seen as a crucial step on theroad to independence.DecemberPeak travel season withmany visitors headingto the country over theChristmas–New Yearbreak. Christmas itselfis celebrated by manyChristian Kayin, Kachinand Chin people.Kayin Newz YearOn the first waxing moon ofPyatho (which can also happenin January), the KayinNew Year is considered anational holiday, with Kayincommunities (clustered inInsein near Yangon andHpa-An) wearing traditionaldress.17PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH

18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a week or amonth, these itineraries providea starting point for the trip of alifetime. Want more inspiration?Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with othertravellers.INDIABANGLADESHMonywa #•Mingun#•MandalayAmarapura#• #•Pakokku#•#•PindayaBagan#•#•Meiktila#•ÉÉÉ ÉÉ Inle LakeMYANMAR#•TaungooCHINALAOSVIETNAMBay ofBengalÉ#•YangonTHAILANDANDAMANSEACAMBODIATwo WeeksMyanmar’s HighlightsStarting in Yangon, visit the Shwedagon Paya at night, when its golden zedi (stupa)glows under floodlights. The next day, follow our walking tour of the city centreand shop for handicrafts at Bogyoke Aung San Market. Take a bus or flight toMandalay, then climb Mandalay Hill and see the famed Mahamuni Paya andMoustache Brothers. The next day take a morning boat trip to Mingun, home to a giantearthquake-cracked stupa, following up with a sunset boat ride past U Bein’s Bridge atAmarapura. Catch a bus to Monywa, climb halfway up inside the world’s tallest standingbuddha or take day trips to quiet riverside villages like A Myint. Continue by road to Pakokku,then board the afternoon boat to Bagan; set aside two or three days to explore thethousands of ancient temples. Fly or settle in for the long bus ride to beautiful Inle Lake,where motor-powered dugout canoes take you to floating markets under the flight path ofegrets. Make a day trip to the Shwe Oo Min Cave near Pindaya to see 8000 buddha images.If you’re not flying directly back to Yangon, consider breaking your road journey at eitherthe relaxing lakeside town of Meiktila or the pilgrimage town of Taungoo.

19BANGLADESHCHINAINDIAMYANMAR#• Pyin Oo Lwin#• MandalayBaganMrauk U#•#• Kalaw#• #• Inle LakeSittwe#•ÉNgapali Beach#•É ÉÉ ÉÉ#• PyayBay ofMt KyaiktiyoBengal#•Pathein#•#•#• Hpa-anTwante #• Yangon#• MawlamyineÉÉANDAMANSEAÉÉÉÉLAOSTHAILANDVIETNAMPLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESCAMBODIAFour WeeksA Month in the CountryThis itinerary, which doesn’t require any special travel permits, takes maximumadvantage of the 28-day tourist visa. Week one sees you heading south, by bus ortrain, from Yangon. First stop: the amazing, golden boulder stupa balanced atopMt Kyaiktiyo. Next up, Mawlamyine, a beguiling, melancholic town that was oncea stomping ground of both Kipling and Orwell. Linger long enough to make a few day trips,such as to the coconut-crazy island Bilu Kyun, the giant reclining buddha Win Sein Taw Ya,or Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery, last resting place of the prisoners who died building theinfamous Burma–Siam Railway.Time your departure from Mawlamyine to coincide with the Monday or Friday boat serviceto Kayin State’s underrated capital, Hpa-an. Give yourself enough time here to climbnearby Mt Zwegabin, before taking the overnight bus back to Yangon.Week two starts with a journey north along the Yangon–Bagan Highway, pausing at historicPyay, famed for its pilgrimage site, Shwesandaw Paya, and the ancient city ruins ofThayekhittaya. Continuing north, switch buses in Magwe, to reach the amazing templestrewnplains of Bagan. A boat ride away is Mandalay, bigger and less exciting than manyvisitors imagine, but a great base for visiting several ancient-city sites.If the heat is getting you down, drive two hours and breathe fresh cool air in the colonialeragetaway of Pyin Oo Lwin. Chill out even more around the shores of magical Inle Lake,perhaps getting there via an overnight trek from Kalaw.Fly from Heho direct to Thandwe for some R&R on beautiful Ngapali Beach. Tan toppedup, head north by plane or boat to Rakhaing State’s regional capital of Sittwe. Linger a dayto catch its atmospheric market and breezy seaside promenade, then take a river trip toMrauk U. Once a powerful, cosmopolitan city, it’s now one of Myanmar’s most atmosphericbackwaters, an idyllic location dotted with hundreds of ancient stupas and monasteries.Reserve a day for another river trip to visit nearby Chin villages.Fly back to Yangon where you can do some last minute sightseeing and shopping, perhapsmaking a day trip to the Delta town of Twante for pottery, or taking an overnightbreak in Pathein to pick up some paper parasols.

20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABANGLADESHBay ofBengal#• MyitkyinaSinbo#•Katha#•#•#• BhamoShweguKyaukmyaung#•Shwebo#•Monywa #•#• Hsipawyin Oo Lwin#• #• #•MandalayPPakokku #•AmarapuraÉ Bagan #• #• MeiktilaMYANMARÉPyay#•ÉÉÉ#•TaungooChaung PatheinTha Beach #• #•NgweThanlyin#• #•#•Saung Yangon#• KyauktanÉÉÉÉÉÉANDAMANSEAÉCHINALAOSTHAILANDVIETNAMNo Fees Please!RDown the AyeyarwadyCAMBODIA24-28 DaysDown the AyeyarwadyFly to Myitkyina, capital of KachinState and home to two of Myanmar’smost colourful festivals. A pair of onedayriver-boat rides descend throughthe Ayeyarwady River’s first defile to attractiveold Bhamo with an overnight stopalong the way in the delightful car-less villageof Sinbo. Choose a fast boat or slow ferryto historic Shwegu through the grander,shorter second defile, and then continue onto Katha, a former colonial outpost whereGeorge Orwell based his Burmese Days.From Katha express boats can zoom southall the way to Mandalay in one day. Alternatively,continue down river by slow ferry,spending a couple of nights aboard, and possiblyjumping ship at Kyaukmyaung withits fascinating riverside pottery factories.An hour’s drive west is the former Burmesecapital Shwebo, from which you can head byroad to Mandalay or to appealing Monywaand colourful Pakokku. From Pakokku youcan board a ferry to Myanmar’s multi-templemasterpiece, Bagan. If you head direct fromKatha to Mandalay, visit the nearby ancientcity sites, including Mingun and Inwa, beforejumping on an Ayeyarwady boat to Bagan, oreven a plumping for a bargain four-day riverodyssey all the way to Pyay.18 DaysNo Fees Please!Limit the amount of money that goesto the government by following thisitinerary; it ventures off the beatentrack and covers mainly private businesses.In Yangon visit the 2000-year-oldSule Paya while on a downtown walkingtour. Hop on a ferry to explore nearby ruralvillages Thanlyin and Kyauktan, returningto Yangon to catch an overnight bus toMandalay. Skip the $10 government fee byvisiting alternative sights, such as YankinPaya, and by making a day trip to Amarapura.Bus or taxi into the Shan Hills atHsipaw and take a privately guided trekto Palaung villages. After two nights, taxidownhill to Pyin Oo Lwin for a night in theold British hill station. Bus hop from Mandalayback to Yangon via the lakeside townof Meiktila and the 16th-century capital ofTaungoo, which offers a delightful guesthouseoverlooking a beguiling rural scene.From Yangon, take either a boat or a bus tolow-key Pathein to pick up a sun parasolfrom private workshops, then finish with acouple of days sunning yourself with the localsat either Chaung Tha Beach or NgweSaung Beach.

21Responsible TravelKey Points» Travel independently rather than in a bigtour group.» Where possible, avoid using businessesowned by the government or those closelylinked with it.» Spread your money around, ie buysouvenirs across the country, not just inYangon.» Don’t compromise locals by your actionsor topics of conversation.» Do talk to locals – they relish outsidecontact.» Contribute to local charitable causes.Advance ReadingCulture Shock! Myanmar, Saw Myat YinTo Myanmar with Love, ed MorganEdwardsonBurma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needsto Know, David I SteinbergThe River of Lost Footsteps, Thant Myint-UFreedom From Fear, Aung San Suu KyiPerfect Hostage, Justin WintleNowhere to Be Home, eds Maggie Lemereand Zoë WestGeographically beautiful and populated bygentle people, Myanmar is also notoriousfor its human rights abuses. The UnitedNations, Amnesty International and HumanRights Watch are among the manyrespected bodies who have called the country’smilitary rulers to account for their imprisonmentand mistreatment of politicaldissidents, use of forced labour, and violentcrackdowns on peaceful demonstrations, aswitnessed in September 2007.Many countries, including the US, Canada,Australia and those of the EuropeanUnion, have and continue to apply economicsanctions. In 1995 the NLD also called for atourism boycott (see p 318 ), which led to criticismof previous editions of this guidebook.In 2010 this controversial travel boycott wasofficially dropped by the NLD, who now welcomeindependent tourists who are mindfulof the political and social landscape; however,those on large group package tours arediscouraged.Lonely Planet believes the answer to thequestion of whether to visit Myanmar issomething that everyone has to decide forthemselves; the box on p 22 sums up the majorpros and cons. If you do go, this guidehas been researched and designed to maximisehow much of your travel budget goesdirectly to local people and minimise howmuch goes to the regime.The chapters on p 290 , p 293 and p 315are all good starting points for getting togrips with the past and current situation inMyanmar.

22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELThe Pros» When researching this book, we found that the vast majority of locals – includingdemocracy supporters – welcomed visitors.» Tourism creates badly needed jobs in a country with a per capita income of$435.» A savvy independent traveller should be able to ensure that the majority of his orher travel dollars go to the private sector and not to the government (p 24 ).» Through ‘direct aid’ efforts (p 25 ), visitors can help improve living conditions for alocal community.» Tourism facilitates contact between Myanmar’s locals and the outside world: localssee that they’re not forgotten and visitors take away images and stories to share withfriends and relatives at home, which helps people stay informed about what is goingon inside this traditionally closed nation.The Cons» It’s impossible to visit without some money going to the government.» International tourists can be seen as a symbolic stamp of approval for the government,whose human rights abuses and corruption are well documented and continuing;there are over 2000 political prisoners, for example.Avoid PackageTours‘We want people to come to Burma, notto help the junta, but to help the peopleby understanding the situation: political,economic, moral – everything. Tohave a very big cruise ship with hundredsof tourists coming in – that’s alot of money for the regime, and so wedon’t like such big business.’U Win Tin, NLD leader and formerpolitical prisonerThis guidebook is geared for independenttravellers, rather than those on group tours.You not only get more out of a trip travellingindependently and meeting locals, butalso you have more control over where yourmoney goes.Many locals who support tourism favourindividual travellers over package tourists;this is the approach encouraged by AungSan Suu Kyi and the National League forDemocracy (NLD).Generally, the more luxurious the tour thegreater the chance that a large percentageof its cost is going to businesses with stronglinks to the government. And in many cases,travellers pay for tours before they arrive inMyanmar, which means less of their moneyfinds its way into the pockets of ordinary citizens.Tours also tend to provide less interactionwith locals while you’re in the country.For tips and advice on arranging your owntour, including securing permits and decidingwhere to stay and what modes of transportto use, see p 27 . If you prefer workingwith tour agents in your own country or inMynamar, ask them the following questions:» Who are your owners and do they have any linksto the government?» What are your policies with regard to using theservices of government or government-linkedbusinesses?» Do you have any charitable programs in place toassist local communities and/or individuals?» Can I contribute directly to a clinic, school ororphanage as part of a trip (always do this inperson)?» Can I hire different guides at each destinationrather than travel with one guide for the whole trip?Choose Goods &Services CarefullyResponsible visitors to Myanmar try to minimisethe amount of money they spend ongovernment owned, or government-friendlybusiness and services. However, disentan-

gling the complex web of financial connectionsin Myanmar’s economy is like unpickingthe Gordian knot. The government hasrecently been divesting itself of certain nationalisedbusinesses – the supply of petrolbeing a key example – but it still controlslarge chunks of the economy.While some cronies are easily identifiable(see p 26 ), other ‘private’ companies are runby government members or supporters onthe sly, or by their family members. Suchlinks can be difficult to trace, partly becausethere is no equivalent of surnames in Myanmar,so each member of the family has his orher own name.When researching this guide, we madeevery effort to identify government-ownedor government-friendly businesses. Wherethere is a good alternative to such businesses,that service is reviewed instead ofthe crony-owned one. Where there is noalternative business or service (ie trains,or the only hotel in a location), a note ofthe government affiliation is made in thereview.It should not be assumed, however, thatall other reviewed businesses in this guidehave no involvement with the government.Ownership is frequently murky, and as inany country, taxes (both the official kindand the bribes that are a necessary partof getting things done) are a fact of life inMyanmar, with no business being able toavoid financial dealings with those in power.Also, when it comes to buying souvenirs andproducts, keep in mind who may be supplyingthem; see p 319 for details about preciousstones and jewellery.Bottom line: the only way ensure thatnone of your money will benefit the governmentis to not visit Myanmar.Spread Your MoneyCritics of independent travel argue that travellers’spending usually bottlenecks at selectplaces, even if those spots are privately run.Familiarity can be reassuring – such as yourtrishaw-driver buddy, or the plate of noodlesthat didn’t make you sick – but the moreplaces at which you spend money, the greaterthe number of locals likely benefit. A fewthings to consider:» Don’t buy all of your needs (bed, taxi, guide,meals) from one source.» Be conscious that behind-the-scenescommissions are being paid on most things youpay for when in the company of a driver or guide. Ifall travellers follow the same lead, the benefits goto only a select few.» Plan en-route stops, or take in at least one offthe-beaten-trackdestination, where locals are lessused to seeing foreigners.» Mix up the locations from which you catch taxisand trishaws – and try to take ones from driverswho aren’t lingering outside tourist areas.» Try to eat at different family restaurants, and ifyou’re staying at a hotel, eat out often. In NgapaliBeach, for example, local restaurants are justacross the road from the beach and hotels.» Buy handicrafts directly from the artisansas you travel around the country, or if you’respending most of your time in the same location,don’t get all your souvenirs from one private shop.23PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELMY LIFE AS A TREKKING GUIDESome of the benefits, and dilemmas, of tourism in Myanmar are illustrated in thisinterview we conducted with a trekking guide in Shan State, who wished to remainanonymous:‘I’ve been leading treks since 1990. I was a civil servant for 15 years but in 1988I took part in the democracy movement and was put in jail for three months. Theycouldn’t find me guilty of anything and when I was released, I didn’t want to work forthe military government. So I started doing this after helping some visiting foreigners.'It’s a good job: I have a lot of chance to speak English and improve [my languageskills]. I’m even reading books in English now. But after I help my son through universityI’d like to become a monk.'I think tourists should come to Myanmar. If tourists come, then our people can earnmoney. But [the downside is that] all hotels have to pay money to the government –this means that the military generals have more money to buy weapons and guns.’

24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELInteract, But Don’tEndangerOne way you can positively help people isto talk and talk and talk, and make newfriends. Many locals cherish outside contactbecause they have so little. This means thetwo-way exchange that comes from it is reassurancefor them that Myanmar isn’t forgotten.If you’re spending all your time with oneguide, or on your own, you’re not really seeingMyanmar right. The temples and mountainsand markets are lovely, but ultimatelya trip to Myanmar is mostly about its people.This said, bear in mind that Myanmar isa country that imprisons its people for disagreeingwith the government’s line. Ensureyou don’t behave in a way that will get localsinto trouble. John Yettaw’s impromptu visitto Aung San Suu Kyi (see p 356 ) provides asalient lesson on the dangers of compromisinglocals.Some things to keep in mind:» Don’t raise political questions and issues ininappropriate situations; let a local direct theconversation. For example, don’t come out withsomething like: ‘Did you march with the monksin 2007?’ or anything about Aung San Suu Kyior the NLD where there are others who may belistening in.» Show equal caution regarding what you askor say on the phone or via email. Internet shopoperators may get into trouble if you log ontobanned sites, for example.» Exercise care when handing over to a localanything that could carry political overtones (suchas a copy of the Economist or Myanmar-relatedbooks).» Be wary of places that treat minority groups as‘attractions’. The ‘long-necked’ Padaung womenin Shan State (p 192 ) have led to a zoo-like touristevent.» Think very carefully before accusing anyoneof cheating you or of theft. Innocent people cansuffer greatly by implication. For example, a busdriver can end up in very hot water if you reportyour camera stolen during a bus ride – indeed,several bus companies no longer carry foreignersfor fear of such problems.» Don’t try to make contact with politicalprisoners who are on conditional release.WHERE THE MONEY GOESThis table estimates how much on average the government may get from differenttypes of traveller. We have based our calculations on our own on-the-ground experiencesand conversations with locals. The figures include government taxes such asa visa, fees and a 10% tax on all purchases.In some places, there are ways around the imposed fees, such as in Mandalay(p 208 ). Also see p 20 for an itinerary that bypasses all sites and destinations that requiregovernment fees.TRAVELBUDGETTHE GOVERNMENTRECEIVES TYPE OF TRIP$0 $0 People who stay at home and read about Myanmar$420 $72 A two-week trip skipping all government fees (eg Bagan,Inle Lake) and services, and sticking with family guesthousesand public buses$420 $97 Another shoestring trip, but one that includes governmentfees at Shwedagon Paya, Bagan and Inle Lake$1000 $150 A two-week trip that includes three flights, a boat ride toBagan and accommodation at midrange hotels$1500 $200 A two-week trip with a private car for a week and accommodationat midrange hotels$2000+ $250+ A one-week trip staying at higher-priced hotels, takingseveral guided day trips, eating at hotels and taking fourdomestic flights$5000 $500 A deluxe cabin on a seven-night luxury cruise

THE PERILS OF MASS TOURISM25Despite the country’s serious problems, there’s a tendency among visitors, expatsand some locals to talk about Myanmar as an ‘unspoiled’ tourist destination, onewhere the atmosphere, values and friendliness of ‘old Asia’ prevail – as fairytale-ishas such an assumption is. One of the reasons for this view is Myanmar’s relativelytiny number of tourist visitors, in the region of 300,000 per year. Contrast that withthe 14 million who descend on neighbouring Thailand annually for their holidays andyou get an idea of how under-developed tourism is in the country.While we met many people who would like tourism to continue to grow, we alsospoke with others, such as Thant Myint-U, author of The River of Lost Footsteps, whotold us of their concerns. ‘For years I’ve tried to advocate tourism, as a way to createjobs for ordinary people and help open up the country,’ says Thant. ‘But now that tourismis beginning to take off and seems set to grow significantly over the coming years, Ithink we need to also have a serious public discussion about both the potential dangersas well as the benefits of mass tourism, learning lessons from the experience of nearbycountries, and looking at concrete options for how tourism might best be managed.’The NLD, who are now cautiously encouraging independent tourists to visit Myanmar,recognise the perils of mass tourism and have urged the government and businessesto avoid further damaging the environment in the process of developingtourism infrastructure.Charity & Direct-AidVolunteerismTourism isn’t going to fix all of Myanmar’sproblems, of course, but there are somesmall things you can do to help during yourvisit. Ask guesthouse owners, agents, teachersand monks about where you can donatemoney for medical or school supplies. Orstop at a village school and ask what materialsthey lack. Often less than $100 can get abook, notepad and pen for everyone needingthem.One remote Chin village we visited inRakhaing State sees occasional tourists,and donations to the village leader had resultedin something they quickly pointedout: a corrugated metal roof on a stilt house.‘Tourists paid for the roof of our school’, theleader told us.Outside of small donations, some NGOsprefer tourists to stick with their trips andleave bigger projects for them. Joel Charnyat Refugees International, who supportstourism in the private sector, told us, ‘I amnot a fan of tourists trying to turn into developmentworkers. Let tourists be tourists.’During research for past editions of thisguide, however, we met several retired travellerswho acted as ‘direct-aid volunteers’.They felt there wasn’t time to wait for aidto reach locals, so they come twice yearly tofund projects on their own. One, who hasbuilt and overseen many new school projects,told us: ‘When I finish one, I only haveto drive 10 minutes to the next village to findanother in need.’ In Tony Wheeler’s BadLands the founder of Lonely Planet writesabout how he and his wife financed the constructionof a 300m wooden bridge connectingthe floating village of Maing Thauk toland at Inle Lake.Another charity-minded traveller told us:‘Never give money. Go in a shop and buy akilo of rice for someone. Ask what they needand get it, not money.’For further information on volunteering,see p 370 .Giving Gifts &DonationsTravellers handing out sweets, pens ormoney to kids on hiking trails or outsideattractions have had a negative impact (asyou’ll certainly see when begging kids followyou around a pagoda). It’s not the bestway to contribute to those in need, andmany locals will advise you not to give tochildren anyway. If you want to hand outuseful items keep this in mind:» Try to give directly to schools, clinics and villageleaders, not kids. A rewarding way to spend a dayis going to a village school, asking a teacher whatPLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELIn a rare interview published in the magazine Future in April 2011, Tay Za, founderof the Htoo group of companies, said that when he started in business in 1984 hehad just US$12 to his name. Today, the 46-year-old is considered Myanmar’s richestprivate individual. He made his billions through a string of government-favouredbusinesses that includes exporting timber, gems and jade (he’s the president of theMyanmar Gems and Jewelry Entrepreneurs’ Association).This pantomime baddy of Myanmar’s economy is also the owner of Air Bagan andtwo luxury hotel chains: Aureum Palace (in Ngwe Saung, Ngapali, Bagan, Nay Pyi Tawand Pyin U Lwin) and Myanmar Treasure Resort (in Yangon, Pathein, Ngwe Saung,Mawlamyine, Bagan and Inle Lake), as well as the Popa Mountain Resort and MalikhaLodge in Putao. Myanmar experts we spoke to while researching this guide believe thatthe airline Asian Wings is also under his control.Tay Za is on the sanctions lists of the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and Switzerland.Sanctions are also imposed on his wife, Thidar Zaw, and his son, Pye Phyo Tay. Alongsidehim on the cronies blacklist is Zaw Zaw, managing director of the Max Myanmar(www.max-myanmar.com) group of companies. Among Zaw Zaw’s properties areHotel Max in Chaung Tha Beach and the Royal Kumudra in Nay Pyi Taw, as well as astring of petrol stations (Tay Za also owns petrol stations).In his defence, Tay Za says his enterprises create jobs and encourage young citizenswho have gone abroad to ‘come back home and work’ in Myanmar. And some of hisluxury hotels are remarkable achievements, notably the reconstructed British-eraGovernors’ Palace at Pyin Oo Lwin.supplies are lacking, buying them and handingthem out to each of the students.» Foreign-made gifts (eg pens) are generallycherished items, and more likely to find a placein a bookcase than actually get used. If you wantto give useful items, buy locally. This puts moneyinto the local economy, and locals are more likelyto use the gift!» Give only to those with whom you have madesome sort of personal bond, not to randomsupplicants who happen to ask. Otherwise you’llencourage a culture of begging.» If you do decide to help a begging family, askwhat they need. Often you can accompany themto the market and pick up food (a bag of rice,some vegetables, some fish).» Some items from outside the country are greatlyappreciated, though. It’s a good idea to carry booksand magazines. It’s best, however, to be discreetabout giving them to people you meet (for instance,leaving one behind in a guesthouse), particularly ifthere are any potential political overtones.Back at HomeYour trip to Myanmar doesn’t have to endonce you’re back home.» Alert Lonely Planet and fellow travellers via theThorn Tree discussion board (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) if you’ve found a new or changedgovernment-operated service or have advice onhow to minimise money going to the governmentor any other tips about how to travel in Myanmar.» Consider posting photos and perceptions ofyour trip on a blog – but make sure your wordsdon’t have repercussions for locals you may havemet while travelling.» Write to your local Myanmar embassy andelected politicians to express your views about thehuman-rights situation.» Contact the various prodemocracy activistgroups in your country.» Email the people in Myanmar you became friendlywith – let them know they are not forgotten.

27Planning Your TripDon’t Forget» Your visa» All-purpose electrical-plug adapter» Torch (flashlight)» Warm jacket for chilly overnight bus rides» Colour passport photos for permits» Flip flops or sandals» Bug spray»Prescription medicines» Brand-new US dollars»Vaccinations (see p383 )» Short-wave radio for BBC & VOA broadcastsTravel LiteratureThe Trouser People Andrew MarshallFinding George Orwell in Burma Emma LarkinThe Native Tourist Ma ThanegiGolden Earth Norman LewisBurma Chronicles Guy DelisleBad Lands Tony WheelerTravel AdvisoriesAustralia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca)New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz)UK (www.fco.gov.uk/travel)USA (travel.state.gov/travel)When to GoNovember to February Peak travel seasonOctober and March Shoulder season is alsoworth consideringGetting Your VisaEveryone requires a visa to visit Myanmar –for full details, see p 369 . If you’re applyingfor a tourist visa at home you should startthe process no later than three weeks beforeyour trip, a month before to be safe. Formost people, getting a visa will be a relativelystraightforward process. It’s certainlyfar easier and less costly than the processMyanmar people have to go through to get apassport – see http://tinyurl.com/44b25e2 –let alone a visa for foreign travel!It’s possible to get a tourist visa at theMyanmar Embassy in Bangkok (%662-233-2237; 132 Sathorn Nua Rd) within 24 hoursif you apply in person; the cost for this serviceis 1010 baht.Arranging PermitsThere are large areas of Myanmar that arefirmly off limits, or accessible only with permission.Securing such permission» takes time – a minimum of at least two weeks,but more commonly around a month» requires the help of an experienced travelagency – for a list of reputable Yangon-basedagencies, see p 69» involves paying fees to the government –usually via the government-owned travel agency,MTT, even if you’re dealing with another agency» usually means dancing to the MTT’s tune whenit comes to how you visit the area in question andwho you go with.

28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN YOUR TRIP PLANNING YOUR TRIPIf you don’t like to compromise on such things as food and hotel quality, and/orhave a low tolerance for last-minute changes of plan or being denied conveniencessuch as guaranteed round-the-clock power, use of ATMs and credit cards, yourmobile phone and the internet, then perhaps Myanmar isn’t for you.Don’t come here if your holiday priorities revolve around nightlife and partying.Myanmar’s evening entertainment options, including bars, are very limited, if they existat all – Yangon (Rangoon), the largest city, included.And in Myanmar, like many developing countries, there are questions around travelsafety and health.Sometimes areas that were possible to visitwith or without a permit, suddenly becomeoff-limits; that’s how it is in Myanmar.Exiting Myanmar by a land border (onlythree possible; see p 375 ) will require permitsand ‘guide’ fees and plenty of advancednotice.Areas of RestrictedTravelPlan accordingly if your travel itineraries involvethe following places:» Border Crossings (p 375 ) Permission is neededto exit Myanmar by all open land border crossings;entering the country this way is also subject totravel restrictions.» Kayah State (p 198 ) Only accessible on agovernment-sanctioned package tour, whicharen’t allowed to stray too far from the statecapital, Loikaw.» Mt Victoria (p 287 ) Bypass the governmentguide by going with a private one, but you’ll stillneed a permit. Mt Victoria is in Chin State.» Putao (p 266 ) Putao is in Kachin State.» Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) Region (p 110 ) Nopermission needed to go to Dawei (Tavoy), Myeik(Mergui) and Kawthoung, but access in and outis by flight only and you must stay within the citylimits.Picking HotelsThis guidebook lists hundreds of hotels andguesthouses that are believed to be privatelyrun with no links to the government. Bearin mind that a tax of at least 10% goes tothe government no matter where you stay.Visitors who want to ensure that the leastamount of their money goes to the governmentcan stick with budget family-runguesthouses and minihotels. Those whowant their stay to benefit the most peoplemay prefer midrange and top-end hotels,which can employ staff of 100 or more andoften fund community projects. See p 22 formore details about how we decided whichhotels to review for this guide.If you want to stay at a particular hotelor guesthouse, advance bookings areadvised for the busiest holiday season inDecember and January. Otherwise, youusually shouldn’t have a problem findingplaces to stay once you’re in Myanmar.Note that some high-end hotels importtheir furnishings, supplies and even food;ask before booking. Staying at hotels thatuse local products can keep more of yourmoney in the country.Family-RunGuesthousesOften with just five or so rooms and alounge, which are shared with three orfour generations of a family living in-house,these budget-level guesthouses can be ahighlight of your trip, offering connectionswith local life and cheap deals (often $10 to$15 for a double). Most rooms come with afan or some sort of air-conditioning unit,though electricity frequently cuts out aftermidnight. Some are better than others,however, and like budget hotels, you’ll findsome with squashed mosquitoes left on thewalls.Budget HotelsIn many towns your only options will bea couple of four-floor, modern, ‘Chinesestyle’hotels. In some there are dark celllikerooms with a shared bathroom on theground floor (usually for locals only), and

30HOW TO SKIP OVERNIGHT BUSESPLAN YOUR TRIP PLANNING YOUR TRIPThere’s not one obvious way to travel by bus between Myanmar’s four big destinations:Yangon, Inle Lake, Mandalay and Bagan. Most travellers start in Yangon andbus to Mandalay one night, then pick between Inle Lake or Bagan next; this requiresat least a couple of overnight buses. Also note, there’s a dearth of direct buses fromMandalay to the Inle Lake area that are willing to take foreigners, and there’s onlyone direct bus daily going to Kalaw/Taunggyi from Nyaung U, departing at 4am.If you like being able to see scenery out the window, or sleeping in beds, you cantravel to these places without taking an overnight bus. But it takes pre-planning and abit more time – around a week of travel time and a total cost of K44,900 if you take thefollowing buses and/or pick-up trucks:ROUTE DURATION (HR) COST (K)Yangon-Taungoo93500-4300Taungoo-Meiktila 6½ 4000Meiktila-Taunggyi (for Inle 6 2500-4000Lake)Taunggyi-Kalaw32500Kalaw-Mandalay98000-10,000Mandalay-Nyaung U (for 7-86500Bagan)Bagan-Magwe85500Magwe-Pyay74000Pyay-Yangon74100Putting TogetherYour Own PackageIf you’re used to having a car at the airportwaiting for you, and guides showing youwhere to go, that can be done and arrangedprivately. Just because many roads are roughdoesn’t mean you have to sacrifice all comforts.Either contact a Yangon-based agent(p 69 ) before a trip, or give yourself a coupleof days to do so once you arrive. The agentcan help set up private guides, transport andhotels. Ask to pay as you go to ensure thatyour money is spread out and to use differentguides at each destination rather thanone guide for the whole trip (see p 21 ). Talkwith more than one agent, telling them whatyou want, to gauge offers.We know that some agents are keen toensure you have adequate travel insurancecovering medical emergencies for your trip.Their concerns are well-founded, as qualitymedical care in Myanmar isn’t readily available.Therefore an insurance policy that coversmedi-vac is wise.BudgetingHaving decided on all the above, you’ll bein a position to budget more accurately foryour trip. If you need extra help, see p 12 .In the vast majority of cases, you’ll bepaying for everything in cash – either US$or the local currency, kyat – once you get toMyanmar (see p 364 ). With a few very rareexceptions, credit cards are not accepted forlocal payment. Sometimes, if you’re dealingwith a travel agent, you can pay in advancefor some of your expenses, on top of which aprocessing fee of around 5% is charged.Also remember to bring brand new greenbacks.Myanmar ATMs don’t accept internationalcards, and with one exception, it willalso not be possible for you to get a cashadvance on a credit card. Thus, you need tobring all the cash you think you’ll need withyou – and not just any cash. Brand-new USdollars – 2006 or later bills that have colourand are in absolutely perfect condition: nofolds, stamps, stains, writing or tears – onlywill be accepted for payment or exchangedfor kyat; see p 13 for more details.

YangonTemples Shopping Food TemplesHome to Shwedagon Paya,the most important religiouspilgrimage site in thecountry, not to mentionmany, many other visitworthypaya and buddhas,Yangon is practically overrunwith monuments toBuddhism. However, if allthe Buddhist architectureis starting to look the same,the city’s Hindu shrines,mosques, colonial-erachurches and lone synagogueprovide a worthwhilecontrast for the templeweary.p 36regionsat aglanceShoppingDecades of internationalisolation have preventedYangon from competingwith neighbouring Bangkokas a shopping hotspot,but the city is hometo a decent selection ofshops stocked with qualityhandicrafts, quirkycultural items and one-ofa-kindart you’re unlikelyto encounter elsewhere.In particular, Yangonis home to some greatantique stores stockingsome genuine treasures.And if you prefer browsing,Yangon’s open-airfresh markets are someof the more vibrant andinteresting in the region.FoodHome to some of thecountry’s best Burmesefood (a new cuisine formost visitors), Yangonis also has a plethora ofrestaurants serving tastytakes on more familiar cuisines,from subcontinentalto Italian. And as soon asyou’re able to distinguishyour mohinga from yourmondhi, the city also offersa vibrant street-foodscene that ranges fromIndian to Shan.Around YangonTemples Beaches Boats TemplesFor temples, the formercapital of Bago (Pegu) wouldprobably outdo just aboutany city in Myanmar, butthe water-bound Yele Payaat Kyauktan and the ShwemokhtawPaya in Patheinmake the entire region anarea worth investigating fortemple freaks.BeachesChaung Tha Beach andNgwe Saung Beach probablywon’t fit everybody’s notionof a picture-postcard desertedbeach, but they’re clean,sunny and the easiest beachesto reach in Myanmar.BoatsIf you're still bearingthe scars from your lastcrowded, hot, bumpy andnever-ending Burmese busride, consider the region’swater-bound transport.The easiest option is thefive-minute river-crossingferry to Dalah, while moreintrepid travellers can takethe two-hour boat to Twanteor the overnight ferry toPathein.p 7331

32PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCESoutheasternMyanmarCaves Temples Culture CavesFor those who love the darkside, this is your region,particularly the countrysidesurrounding Hpa-an. Thereare countless caves, somewith ancient Buddhist art,others largely untouched, allripe for exploration.TemplesThere are enough templesin and around Mawlamyinealone to keep you busy fora lifetime, but the indisputablehighlight of the regionis Mt Kyaiktiyo (GoldenRock) – a must-do religiouspilgrimage for every man,woman, child and tourist inMyanmar.CultureYou will probably neverhave heard of the Monpeople before, so let one ofthe excellent Mawlamyinebasedguides introduceyou to the culture via thearea's tidy sugar-palm-linedtowns, seaside temples andisland-bound villages.p 91Bagan &CentralMyanmarTemples Shopping Elephants TemplesYou’ll find thousands ofthem in Bagan, but alsoworth seeking out are theNat shrine at Mt Popa andthe pilgrimage temples ofShwesandaw Paya in Taungoo,Shwesandaw Paya inPyay, and ShwemyetmanPaya in Shwedaung.ShoppingBagan is also famous forits exquisitely decoratedlacquerware; watch artisanscreate it in workshops inMyinkaba and New Bagan.Across the AyeyarwadyRiver, Pakoku is famous forits patterned blankets.ElephantsThe new capital, Nay PyiTaw, has a couple of whiteelephants beside its giantUppatasanti Paya, as well asa herd of regular elephantsat its zoo. You can alsowatch elephants workingat jungle logging camps ontrips to teak plantationsoutside Taungoo.p 111EasternMyanmarOutdoors Culture Food OutdoorsTramping between tea plantationsin Pindaya; buzzingaround in a boat on InleLake; scaling mountainsoutside Kalaw; visiting a Loilonghouse outside Kengtung...These are just a fewof the outdoor options possiblein eastern Myanmar.CultureThe country’s far east boastsexceptional cultural diversity– even by Myanmarstandards. Visit and learnabout Pa-O culture aroundInle Lake or learn aboutShan culture and languageand their similarities withthose of neighbouring Thailandin Kengtung.FoodFrom shàn k’auq-swèh,Shan-style noodle soup, tongà t’ămìn jin, a turmerictingedrice dish, a stay ineastern Myanmar is yourchance to try authenticShan food at the source.p 166

33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture Shopping TemplesAs Burma’s last royal capital,Mandalay has retained manyfine monastic buildings. Arguablymore interesting arethe older stupas and templeson the sites of several olderformer capitals, includingwhat would have been theworld’s biggest stupa (Mingun)had it been finished.CultureMandalay is consideredMyanmar’s cultural capital,so it’s a convenient placeto see intimate traditionaldance performances andmarionette shows, while thedissident Moustache Brothers’vaudevillian rants arean eternal talking point.ShoppingNumerous antique shopsdon’t necessarily stock realantiques, but even if you’reonly window-shoppingthere’s an impressive rangeof craft work, notablystuffed embroidery, silk,stone carving and themanufacture of gold leaf.The stone carving and thehammering of gold leaf arefascinating to watch.p 199NorthernMyanmarOutdoors Culture Boats OutdoorsLace up your boots and hiketo unspoilt hill-tribe villagesthat are easily accessible onshort yet easy-to-arrangehikes from Hsipaw andKyaukme. Given permitsand serious money, intrepidtravellers can trek deep intoMyanmar’s Himalayan foothillsfrom Putao.CultureImmerse yourself in this region’scultural panoply. Observethe contrasts betweenthe predominantly ChineseLashio, Palaung and Shanvillages around Hsipaw andKachin, and Lisu populationsin Myitkyina, home totwo of Myanmar’s biggest‘minority’ festivals.BoatsBump elbows with locals inno-frills public boats chuggingdown the mighty AyeyarwadyRiver. You'll barelysee another foreigner here.But if you want somethingeven remoter, you couldjoin a relatively exclusivetour that takes you raftingor boating on the dramaticMalikha River near Putao.WesternMyanmarTemples Beaches Boat Trips TemplesExplore the ruined andfunctioning temples andpalace remains scatteredacross the lush hillsides ofthe old Rakhaing capital ofMrauk U. Sittwe’s giant LokanandaPaya and the teakbuildings of the ShwezediKyaung monastic complexare also worth searchingout.BeachesIdyllic stretches of palmfringedsand hardly comemore perfectly formed thanthat at Ngapali Beach. Youcan also watch the sunsetover the Bay of Bengal fromthe beach and viewpoint ashort walk or cycle south ofSittwe.Boat TripsThe only way to reachMrauk U or the remoteChin village further up theLemro River is by a leisurelyboat ride. For the reallyadventurous there’s also theday-long coastal hop fromSittwe to Taunggok via theisland port of Kyaukpyu.p 268PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCEp 233

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdYangonSights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Festivals & Events . . . . . . 51Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Drinking &Entertainment . . . . . . . . .64Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Best Places to Eat» Aung Thukha (p 60 )» Nilar Biryani & Cold Drink(p 58 )» Feel Myanmar Food (p 58 )» SK Hot Pot (p 60 )» 999 Shan Noodle Shop(p 58 )Best Places toStay» Strand Hotel (p 52 )» Mother Land Inn 2 (p 52 )» Panorama Hotel (p 53 )» Governor’s Residence(p 53 )» Three Seasons Hotel(p 53 )Why Go?Many travellers tend to give Yangon (rn'kun') short shrift,sacrificing the city for extra time in Myanmar’s high-profileupcountry destinations. This is a pity, as the city is – in itsown quirky way – one of the more distinctive in SoutheastAsia. In addition to possessing what is quite possibly themost awe-inspiring religious monument in the region, internationalisolation over the last five decades has left Yangonwith an enduring colonial charm that has all but disappearedelsewhere. And although a sense of melancholyis a frequent backdrop to this setting, your memories aremore likely to be of Yangon’s vibrant and colourful streets,its hectic open-air markets, some of the friendliest urbanitesanywhere and what is most likely your first experience withan entirely unfamiliar cuisine.When to GoWeather in Yangon follows the familiar pattern of hot in thesummer (March to May) and relatively comfortable in thewinter (November to January), with average highs of 84°F to97°F (29°C to 36°C) and average lows of 64°F to 77°F (18°Cto 25°C). Winter is the best time to visit, as the days aretolerable and the evenings often cool. As elsewhere in Myanmar,you can expect daily showers during the rainy season,from approximately June to November, although these areoften short and shouldn’t generally inconvenience your visit.

Yangon Street NamesThe English terms ‘street’ and ‘road’ are often used interchangeablyin Yangon for the single Burmese word làn.Hence, some local maps may read Shwegondine Rd, whileothers will say Shwe Gone Daing Rd or Shwe Gone DaingSt; in Burmese, it’s simply Shwe Gone Daing Làn. This chapteruses the most common English version that travellersencounter.And as the previous examples demonstrate, differentmaps may also present the actual names of streets differently;eg Shwegondine Rd is Shwegondaing Rd on some localmaps.DANGERS & ANNOYANCESYangon is an incredibly safe city: you are far less likely tobe robbed here than almost any other big city in SoutheastAsia. Having said that, rich foreigners and badlylit side streets at night don’t mix, and you should showsome caution at such times. A far bigger danger is gettinghit by a belligerent motorist, stumbling on the unevenpaving slabs in central Yangon or even disappearingcompletely into a sewage-filled pot hole. Keep your eyespeeled for such obstacles and carry a torch at night.Worth Noticing in Yangon» Driving me crazy – Yangon is most likely where you’ll firstencounter Myanmar’s unique driving situation: right-handdrivecars being driven on the right side of the road.» Smooching – Myanmar people get somebody’s attentionby making a kissing sound.» No late nights here – just about the entire city closesdown by 9pm.» Motorcycle free – if you believe the rumours, a highrankingmilitary leader’s car was hit by a motorcycle severalyears ago, leading him to issue a total ban on the twowheeledvehicle on the streets of Yangon.» Betelgeuse – red stains and even redder teeth will tip youoff that this is betel nut country.» Weird sex – on the streets of Yangon you’ll see stalls sellingbizarre sexual aids. In addition to flavoured condoms, wesaw dodgy pills, penis enlargers and scary looking rings withhair and beads.» Powerless – the lack of a consistent power source meansnoisy smoke-pumping generators are ubiquitous on thestreets of Yangon.DON’T MISSYangon’s ShwedagonPagoda, arguablythe most famous andimpressive religiousstructure in the entirecountry, is a must-visit.Fast Facts» Population: c4,348,000» Telephone code: 01» Elevation: 46ftPlanning YourTrip» Be sure to arrangeyour Myanmar visa aheadof time – at the time ofresearch, visa on arrivalhad temporarily beensuspended.» Bring cash – ideallyUS$ – and make sure it’s inperfect condition.Resources» The Irrawaddy (www.irrawaddy.org) has puttogether an ‘AlternativeTourist Trail’ of lesserknownhistorical andpolitical sights in Yangon atwww.irrawaddy.org/article.php?art_id=6862.

To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (178mi); InternationalOkkalapa38Mandalay (400mi) AirportDagonPweseikkonMyothitInsein GeneralYwamaHospitalHsin Hpyu DawPhuka StKyaukyedwinInsein Kyauk InseinDaw KyiTadagaleYANGONGyogoneSwedaw StMayangonYeguTo Hliang Thar Yar Thamaing Minn Lane RakhaingBus TerminalMonte & FreshMahapasana(6.2mi)Seafood5Sangha Kaba Aye PayaOkkyinHospitalMyanmar Gems Museum& Gems MarketChanmyay YeikthaMeditation CentreParami Women andThirimyaingSouth Children HospitalYangonInya Lake L'Opera OkkalaCircleHotel RestaurantLineKanbeInyaKamayutLakePun HlaingBauktawGolf EstateInlayAmathayaBayintnaungKuonRdSawa Factory RdHlaing RiverLanInthitRdseinPan Hlaing RiverYwar CreekButte yon RdPyayKyHledanPyay RdHanthawadyKyemyindaing(Station Rd)aikPanhlaingParami RdInsein RdAhlone RdAhlone0 2 km0 1 mileRdYangon Highlights1 Offer a slack-jawed prayerof wonder at the ShwedagonPaya (p 43 ), the pyramid ofgold that is the Burma of old2 Pick up some Burmesestyleslippers or a new longyiat Bogyoke Aung San Market(p 67 )3 Massage the person-sizedtoes of the jewel-bedeckedWineKamayutPyay RdSanchaungYangonPagodaPyay RdUniversity AvePyay RdRdRiverRdKaba Aye Pagoda RdKokkine RdShwedagonPayaNationalMuseumDagonBogyoke AungSan MarketDowntown YangonWalking TourStrand RdNgaParamiYankinTamweBahanMyittarChaukhtatgyi NyuntPayaThuwunnaBridgeSule PayaRdStThudhamarenlightened one at theChaukhtatgyi Paya (p 47 )4 Have your palm read onthe watercolour streets andsearch for a glittering payaand Chinese dragons on ourdowntown Yangon walkingtour (p54 )5 Caffeinate, eavesdrop onthe gossip and grab a snackRdOak Pone Seik RdKanbe RdKandawgyiLakeMoeYeikCreekMingalaTaungNyuntWai ZaBo Minn Yaung RdThan Thu Mar RdThitsar RdThu MingaMyittar RdYan Tar RdTamweThaketaBridgeMa Hiwa GoneaPyi Htaung Main RdYangon PazundaungDawbonMahabandoolaBridgeBotataunglar RdPin Lon RdYa DaNar RdThin Gan Gyun RdThanthumar RdYan Pyae StMan Pyae Stat one of Yangon’s teahouses(p63 )6 See Yangon’s ’burbs froma very crowded train on theYangon Circle Line (p 50 )7 Witness the treasures ofMyanmar's past at the poorlymaintained but worthwhileNational Museum (p41 ).Myin Taw Taw St

WHITE MARBLE & WHITE ELEPHANTSThere are numerous Buddhist monuments in the suburbs surrounding Yangon, butKyauk Daw Kyi (Map p 38 ; Bargaryar St; admission free; h6am-6pm), an immense seatedBuddha, is undoubtedly the most impressive. Carved from a single piece of marble foundoutside Mandalay in 1999, the partially finished statue was painstakingly transported toYangon by boat and train (on a specially built track) a year later, events that are depictedin the complex’s modern murals. After the detailing was finished, the Buddha was positionedat its current home at the top of a hill and encased in glass.Couple a visit here with the nearby Hsin Hpyu Daw (Map p 38 ; admission free; h8am-5pm), an unmarked park across the street where two white elephants are held. The elephants– actually light pink in colour – were found upcountry and brought to Yangon in2002, their discovery regarded, by the military at least, as a good omen for the country.39YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTSIn late 2007 Yangon was the centre of hugenationwide fuel protests, which were led byBuddhist monks. The protests quickly escalatedinto antigovernment demonstrations,which resulted in the deaths of many protestorsand worldwide condemnation.In May 2008 the worst natural disaster inMyanmar’s recent history hit the south of thecountry (see p 305 for more). Yangon was declareda disaster area by Myanmar’s government.Many of the city’s pagodas, temples,shops and hotels had minor to serious damagefrom falling trees, lampposts and fences.However, when reconstruction work began, itwas found that most of the city had escapedmajor structural damage. By mid-June 2008electricity and telecommunications were backto normal, and shops and restaurants had reopenedwith brand-new corrugated-tin roofs.HistoryMyanmar’s biggest city, Yangon is comparativelyyoung. It became the capital only in1885 when the British completed their conquestof northern Myanmar, and Mandalay’sbrief period as the centre of the last Burmesekingdom ended.Despite its short history as the seat of nationalgovernment, Yangon has been in existencefor a long time – although mostly as asmall town – in comparison to places suchas Bago (Pegu), Pyay (Prome) or Thaton. In1755 King Alaungpaya conquered centralMyanmar and built a new city on the siteof Yangon, which at that time was knownas Dagon. Yangon means ‘end of strife’:the king rather vainly hoped that with theconquest of central Myanmar, his struggleswould be over. In 1756, with the destructionof Thanlyin (Syriam) across the river, Yangonalso became an important seaport.In 1841 the city was virtually destroyed byfire; the rebuilt town again suffered extensivedamage during the Second Anglo-BurmeseWar in 1852. The British, the new masters,rebuilt the capital to its present plan and corruptedthe city’s name to Rangoon.In 1988 around 15% of Yangon’s city-centrepopulation – all squatters – were forced tomove to seven myo thit (new towns) northeastof the city centre. Many of the old colonialbuildings once occupied by the squattershave now been refurbished for use as offices,businesses and apartments.The city changed dramatically followingthe 1989 banishment of socialism. Startingin the early 1990s, the government begansprucing up the city’s appearance by cleaningthe streets and painting many publicbuildings. Since 1992, when the procapitalistGeneral Than Shwe took power, new carsand trucks have taken to city roads, mobilephones are commonly seen in the city centreand satellite dishes dot the horizon.In November 2005, quite unexpectedly, thegovernment announced that the newly constructedcity of Nay Pyi Taw in central Myanmarwas to be the nation’s capital. Despitethe government upping sticks for the newcapital, Yangon remains the commercial anddiplomatic capital and by far the largest city.1SightsCITY CENTREBotataung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEbuil'teqC='.urC"(Map p 42 ; Strand Rd; admission $2, camera $1) Oneof Yangon’s ‘big three’ payas, and said to containhair relics of the Buddha, the BotataungPaya was named after the 1000 military leaderswho escorted relics of the Buddha fromIndia to Myanmar over 2000 years ago (Bo

40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart the morning with a traditional Myanmar breakfast of mohinga (soup of thin ricenoodles and fish broth). Before the heat becomes oppressive, take a walk around thecity centre following our suggested walking tour. Allow yourself plenty of time to play inthe markets, dawdle in the temples and fawn over the rickety architecture. Rest your feetbefore the day’s highlight: the Shwedagon Paya at sunset. End your day with dinner at anearby restaurant such as SK Hot Pot.Dedicate your second day to exploring the sights outside the city centre. After ateahouse breakfast, take the ferry to Dalah, on the other side of the Yangon River, toprovide a taste of delta life. Back on dry ground, the Botataung Paya near the jetty isthe next logical stop. For lunch, take a taxi to Aung Thukha and try authentic Burmesefood. Spend the remainder of the afternoon cruising around temples north of the citycentre, including the Chaukhtatgyi Paya and nearby Ngahtatgyi Paya. Then, if timeallows, take a stroll around Kandawgyi Lake, and maybe stop in for a drink at one of thelakeside restaurants or hotels.Four DaysThe sensible should try to give themselves more time to devote to the city, and if you’reone of the lucky blighters able to do this, Yangon has some treats in store! Spend the firsttwo days following the Yangon in Two Days suggestions and then, after another teahousebreakfast on day three, head to the National Museum to swoon over treasures thatwould make Aladdin jealous. Wander around the embassy district until you arrive atyour lunch destination, Feel Myanmar Food. In the evening, hit up Chinatown and theincense-clouded temple Kheng Hock Keong, and finish with a streetside grilled feaston 19th St. By day four you’ll probably feel the need to stretch your wings a little, sochoose from one of three easy day trips out of the city. The first involves floating templesand off-beat adventure around Thanlyin and Kyauktan. The second involves more waterwith a slow ferry ride and temple tour of Twante. The third is for those for whom oneBuddha is never enough: temple-packed Bago is where you’re off to today.means leader, usually in a military sense, andtataung means 1000). For one six-month periodthis paya is said to have harboured alleight strands of the Buddha’s hair beforethey were distributed elsewhere. It’s not asbreathtaking as the Shwedagon, or as strikingfor being so out of place like Sule Paya,but Botataung’s spacious riverfront locationand lack of crowds give it a more down-toearthspiritual feeling than the other two.Its proximity to fresh air and the Yangonwharves were less fortuitous when abomb from an Allied air raid in November1943 scored a direct hit on the unfortunatepaya. After the war the Botataung was rebuiltin a very similar style to its predecessor,but with one important and unusualdifference: unlike most zedi (stupa), whichare solid, the Botataung is hollow, and youcan walk through it. There’s a sort of goldleaf-coatedmaze inside the stupa, with glassshowcases containing many of the ancientrelics and artefacts, including small silverand-goldBuddha images, which were sealedinside the earlier stupa. Reconstruction alsorevealed a small gold cylinder holding twosmall body relics and a strand of hair, saidto belong to the Buddha, which is reputedlystill in the stupa. Above this interesting interior,the golden stupa spire rises to 131ft.To the western side of the stupa is a hallcontaining a large gilded bronze Buddha,cast during the reign of King Mindon Min.At the time of the British annexation, it waskept in King Thibaw Min’s glass palace, butafter King Thibaw was exiled to India, theBritish shipped the image to London. In 1951the image was returned to Myanmar andplaced in the Botataung Paya. Also on thegrounds is a nat pavilion containing imagesof Thurathadi (the Hindu deity Saraswati,goddess of learning and music) and Thagyamin(Indra, king of the nat) flanking thethoroughly Myanmar nat Bobogyi.There’s also a large pond full of hundredsof terrapin turtles. Most are fairly small but

every now and again a truly monstrous onesticks its head out of the water.A short walk from Botataung Paya atBotataung jetty, you can watch ferries andoared water taxis cross the Yangon River.Sule PayaBUDDHIST STUPAzU"el.urC"(Map p 46 ; cnr Sule Paya & Mahabandoola Rds; admission$2) It’s not every city whose primarytraffic circle is occupied by a 2000-year-oldgolden temple. Surrounded by governmentbuildings and commercial shops, the tall zediat Sule Paya is another example of the strangeincongruity of the Yangon cityscape. Yet, it’sthis mix of modern Asian business life meldingwith ancient Burmese tradition that isthe highlight of the Sule Paya. Early evening,just after the sun has gone down and workershave rushed home for the night, is the mostatmospheric time to both visit the templeand make a turn of the streets surroundingit. Many take the time to pause by the SulePaya to pray and meditate on the day’s events.The central stupa’s name, Kyaik Athok,translates in the Mon language as ‘the stupawhere a Sacred Hair Relic is enshrined’. Aswith many other ancient Myanmar shrines,it has been rebuilt and repaired many timesover the centuries, so no one really knowsexactly when it was built.The golden zedi is unusual in that its octagonalshape continues right up to the belland inverted bowl. It stands 151ft high andis surrounded by small shops (including aninternet café and a guitar shop) and all thefamiliar nonreligious activities that seem tobe a part of every zedi in Myanmar. Besidesits significance as a landmark and meetingplace, maybe its most mundane function isas a milestone from which all addresses tothe north are measured.National MuseumMUSEUMamYŸi"sC"¨ptiuk'(Map p 46 ; %371 540; Pyay Rd; admission $5;h10am-4pm) Try to ignore the fact that thepriceless collection at the National Museumis appallingly labelled and lit, and just focuson the treasures that lie within this cavernousbuilding.Highlights of the collection include the26ft-high Sihasana (Lion Throne), which belongedto King Thibaw Min, the last king ofMyanmar. It’s actually more of an entrancedoorway than a throne but let’s not quibble,because it’s a damn sight more impressivethan your front door! Further signs that thekings of old didn’t understand the meaningof the word ‘subtlety’ are the jewel-encrustedbeds, silver and gold rugs, flashy palanquins(one of which is palatial in its size andsplendour), kitchen chairs made of ivory,some breathtaking ceremonial dresses anda large collection of betel-nut holders andspittoons, which alone could make the BritishCrown Jewels look like cheap tack pickedup at an ‘everything for a dollar’ shop.The upper floors are less impressive andtake you on an amble through natural history,prehistory and a very poorly lit art gallery.Mahabandoola GardenPARKmhCbNÖŸlpn'"¨x®(Map p 42 ; admission K500) Just southeast of theSule Paya, this square urban park offers pleasantstrolling in the city centre’s heart, especiallyin the early morning when the air hasn’tyet filled with traffic fumes. Occupying thecentre of the northern half of the park is the41YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTSTHE GRAVE OF THE LAST MUGHALIn 1858, 27 years before they banished Burma’s last king Thibaw to Ratnagiri, India, theBritish executed a similar regime change in Delhi. Following the failed Sepoy Mutiny,Bahadur Shah Zafar II, India’s last Mughal emperor, was exiled to Rangoon with his wifeZeenat Mahal and remaining members of his family. The ex-emperor, who had a reputationas a talented Urdu poet, died four years later in November 1862.William Dalrymple, who chronicles Bahadur Shah Zafar’s life in The Last Mughal,writes of how his shrouded corpse was hastily buried in an anonymous grave in his prisonenclosure, so that, as the British Commissioner in charge insisted, ‘No vestige shouldremain to distinguish where the last of the Great Mughals rests.’A mausoleum – the Dargah of Bahadur Shah Zafar (Map p 46 ; Ziwaca St; admissionfree) – was later built on the location of the prison, but the grave itself remained a mysteryuntil 1991 when workmen discovered it 3½ feet underground during excavations for a newstructure at the site. Covered in silks and strewn with sweet-smelling petals, it is now aplace of pilgrimage for Indians, Muslims and others interested in the history of the Raj.

SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANGONEast Central Yangon#1243#ý# û39Gyo Phyu St# ú25AungSanStadium# 54Kun Chan St#£ YangonTrain StationMahabandoolaGarden St55#TradersHotelÿ#û#40 ý#41 # ú 3422 # ú ÿ#5 26 ÿ#12Ü#4# ý 42 ÿ#6 # ú # ú 23# þ Methodist# ð46 Ü#Telugu ChurchAA # ð # þ 48#3 Pharmacy# ð30#ú33 ú## ú18ú#5253 #32 # ú203537# ú # ú # 50 ## þ#á ú#49# ð 28 BAKIndependenceCenterMonument# þ444ÿ##÷ 2 36 ú#1610MahabandoolaGarden8 ÿ#45#þÿ#Sule Paya Rd1 11 11 11 11 1 11 11 1 11 11 1 11 1ÿ#1766 6666 665A‚35th St36th StPansodan St7##Bank StPansodanSt Jettyf#Yangon RiverUpper Pansodan St37th St38th StSeikkan Thar St51# 14ÿ#U Pho Kyar StMahabandoola Rd39th St40th StBo Aung Kyaw St#òBMINGALATAUNGNYUNT41st St42nd St# þ47Bo Galay Zay St43rd St44th St94th StBoMinYaungStStrand RdThein Byu Rd# ú 29# ú2166613ÿ#ú#24ÿ27 # ú 31# ú # Þ 3# û38BOTATAUNG11ÿ#ÿ#1519#ú #Ú 1C46th St101st St47th StMerchant StBogyoke Aung San Rd48th StBo Myat Tun St49th StYay Kyaw Rd50th St51st St52nd StDBo Ta Taung Pagoda Rd54th StAnawrahta Rd53rd St#ñABCDIndependence Monument, an obelisk surroundedby two concentric circles of chinthe.For a year or two following the 1988–90prodemocracy uprisings, the park was occupiedby soldiers; many of the more violentevents of the time took place nearby.Other Temples & ShrinesFor a change of scenery check out the dragonsand incense of the Kheng Hock Keong(Map p 46 ; Strand Rd; admission free; h24hr), thelargest Chinese temple in Yangon. Supportedby a Hokkien association, the 100-yearoldtemple is most lively from around 6amto 9am when it’s thronged with worshippersoffering candles, flowers and incense to theBuddhist and Taoist altars within.The impressive Moseah Yeshua Synagogue(Map p 46 ; 85 26th St), near MahabandoolaRd, was founded in 1894 by SephardicJews from India and Baghdad. Watched overby trustee Moses Samuels, one of Yangon’snow tiny community of Jews, its lovinglymaintained interior contains a bimah (platformholding the reading table for the torah)in the centre of the main sanctuary and awomen’s balcony upstairs. The wooden ceil-

0 580 m#e 0 0.3 milesEF56th StBo Ta Htaung Zay RdRdUpper PazundaungPAZUNDAUNG9#ÿPazundaung CanalMahabandoola RdELower Pazundaung RdStrand RdThaketa Bridge1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1ing features the original blue-and-white Starof David motif.Several colourful Hindu temples can befound in the centre of the city, includingSri Kali (Map p 46 ; Anawrahta Rd; h5-11am &3-9pm), between 26th and 27th Sts, and theSri Devi (Map p 42 ; cnr Anawrahta Rd & 51st St;h6.30-11.30am & 4.30-8.30pm), both of whichare Technicolor temples following the classicSouth Indian style of towers. These are thecentres for the city’s annual Murugu Festival,famous for colourful street processions featuringacts of ritual self-mutilation.F12345Christians get in on the act in Yangon aswell with St Mary’s Cathedral (Map p 42 ; cnrBo Aung Kyaw St & Bogyoke Aung San Rd), built ina bizarre red brick (and with an equally bizarrered, green and white interior), whichwill excite colonial buffs.OUTSIDE CITY CENTREShwedagon PayaBUDDHIST STUPAer¯ti8u®.urC"(Map p 48 ; admission $5; h5am-10pm) Heartstopping at any time, the Shwedagon Payaglitters bright gold in the heat of the day.Then, as the sun casts its last rays, it turns acrimson gold and orange, magic floats in theheat and the mighty diamond at the spire’speak casts a beam of light that reflects sheetwhite, bloody red and jealous green to thefar corners of the temple platform. It can bequiet and contemplative or colourful andraucous, and for the people of Myanmar itis the most sacred of all Buddhist sites, onethat all Myanmar Buddhists hope to visit atleast once in their lifetime.Visible from almost anywhere in thecity, Shwedagon is located to the north ofcentral Yangon, between People’s Park andKandawgyi.The admission fee, which goes to the government(see p 21 ), includes a lift ride to theraised platform of the stupa. Of course, likemost local visitors, you may walk up one ofthe long graceful entrances, by far the moreexciting method of entry. The north gate isespecially photogenic at night.The following details the history and attributesof the main structure. Freelanceguides (they’ll locate you before you canfind them) at the stupa can fill in the detailsabout the surrounding elements.HistoryThe great golden dome rises 322ft above itsbase. According to legend this stupa – of thesolid zedi (conelike) type – is 2500 years old,but archaeologists suggest that the originalstupa was built by the Mon people sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries.In common with many other ancient zedi inearthquake-prone Myanmar, it has been rebuiltmany times, and its current form datesback only to 1769.During the Bagan period of Myanmar’shistory (10th to 14th centuries), the storyof the stupa emerged from the mists of legendto become hard fact. Near the top of theeastern stairway you can see an inscriptionrecording the history of the stupa to 1485.43YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTS

44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sights36 Shwe We Htun ........................................A41 Botataung Paya ..................................... D5 37 Yatha Teashop .......................................B42 Mahabandoola Garden.......................... A43 Sri Devi ................................................... D3 û Drinking4 St Mary's Cathedral............................... B3 38 50th Street Bar & Grill ...........................D439 British Club Bar ...................................... A1ÿ Sleeping40 Sky Bistro ...............................................A25 Beautyland Hotel II................................ A2 Strand Bar .....................................(see 14)6 Cherry Guest House.............................. A37 Eastern Hotel ......................................... C3 ý Entertainment8 May Fair Inn............................................ B4 41 Cinemas ..................................................A29 Mother Land Inn 2 ..................................E3 42 Nay Pyi Daw Cinema..............................A310 New Aye Yar Hotel................................. B4 43 Thamada Cinema...................................A211 Ocean Pearl Inn ..................................... D312 Panorama Hotel..................................... B2 þ Shopping13 Queen's Park Hotel................................ C3 44 Bagan Book House.................................B414 Strand Hotel........................................... B5 45 Bookstalls ...............................................A4Thammada Hotel..........................(see 43) 46 Inwa Bookshop.......................................B315 Three Seasons Hotel............................. D4 J's Irrawaddy Dream.....................(see 14)16 Tokyo Guest House............................... B4 Loft ................................................ (see 29)17 Yoma Hotel ............................................ C2 47 Morning Market......................................B548 Night Market...........................................B3ú Eating Pansodan Gallery ......................... (see 23)365 Café ........................................(see 43) 49 Tip-Top Tailors .......................................B418 999 Shan Noodle Shop......................... A319 Be Le....................................................... B5 ï Information20 Bharat Restaurant................................. B4 50 Ava Laundry............................................B421 Buthi Kyaw Vendor................................ C3 51 Ayarwaddy Legend Travels &22 Café Aroma ............................................ A2 Tours ....................................................B523 Ciao Pizzeria Italiana............................. B3 52 Bus Route Poster ...................................A324 City Mart................................................. C3 Columbus Travels & Tours..........(see 40)25 Ichiban-Kan.............................................A1 Exotissimo Travel.........................(see 40)26 Japan Japan........................................... A3 53 Myanmar Travels & Tours.....................A427 Lucky Seven........................................... D328 Man Myo Taw Café................................ B4 ï Transport29 Monsoon ................................................ C5 54 Maw ......................................................... A130 Mr Brown Café....................................... A3 55 Myanmar Railways Booking31 Myaung Mya Daw Cho .......................... D3 Office....................................................A232 NamKhamFamilyShan PTT Express.................................. (see 54)Restaurant .......................................... B3 Shwe.............................................. (see 54)33 Parisian Cake & Café............................. A3 Shwe Zin ....................................... (see 54)34 Ruby Mart............................................... B2 Teht Lann Express ....................... (see 54)35 Samusa Thoke Vendors........................ A4In the 15th century, the tradition of gildingthe stupa began. Queen Shinsawbu, whowas responsible for many improvements tothe stupa, provided her own weight (88lb)in gold, which was beaten into gold leaf andused to cover the structure. Her son-in-law,Dhammazedi, went several better, offeringfour times his own weight and that of hiswife in gold. He also provided the 1485 historicalinscription on the eastern stairway.The zedi suffered from a series of earthquakesduring this time, which caused greatdamage. In 1612 Portuguese renegade adventurerFilipe de Brito e Nicote raided thestupa from his base in Thanlyin and carriedaway Dhammazedi’s great bell, with theintention of melting it for cannons. As theBritish were to do later with another bell, heaccidentally dropped it into the river. Duringthe 17th century, the monument suffered

earthquake damage on eight occasions.Worse was to follow in 1768, when a quakebrought down the whole top of the zedi.King Hsinbyushin had it rebuilt to virtuallyits present height, and its current configurationdates from that renovation.British troops occupied the compoundfor two years immediately after the FirstAnglo-Burmese War in 1824. In 1852, duringthe Second Anglo-Burmese War, theBritish again took the paya, the soldiers pillagedit once more and it remained undermilitary control for 77 years, until 1929. In1871 a new hti (the umbrella-like decorativetop of a stupa), provided by King MindonMin from Mandalay, caused considerablehead-scratching for the British, who werenot at all keen for such an association tobe made with the still-independent part ofMyanmar.During the 20th century, the ShwedagonPaya was the scene for much political activityduring the Myanmar independence movement– Aung San Suu Kyi spoke to massivecrowds here in 1988 and the temple was alsoat the centre of the monks’ protests in 2007.The huge earthquake of 1930, which totallydestroyed the Shwemawdaw in Bago, causedonly minor damage to Shwedagon. Less luckwas had the following year when the payasuffered from a serious fire. After anotherminor earthquake in 1970, the zedi was cladin bamboo scaffolding, which extended beyondKing Mindon’s 100-year-old hti, andwas refurbished.DesignThere are four covered walkways up SinguttaraHill to the platform on which Shwedagonstands. The southern entrance, from ShwedagonPagoda Rd, is the one that can mostproperly be called the main entrance. Here,and at the northern entrance, there are liftsavailable, should you not feel fit enough forthe stroll up the stairs. The western entrancefeatures a series of escalators in place ofstairs, and is the only entrance without vendors.The eastern stairway has the most traditionalambience, passing adjacent kyaung(monasteries) and vendors selling monasticrequisites, such as alms bowls and robes.Two 30ft-high chinthe (legendary halflion,half-dragon guardian figures) loomover the southern entrance. You must removeyour shoes and socks as soon as youmount the first step. Like the other entrances,the southern steps are lined with a seriesof shops, where devotees buy flowers – bothTHE LEGEND OF THESHWEDAGON PAYAOnce upon a time in the land of Suvannabhumi,a great king was presentedwith a gift of eight strands of hair. Thebearers of these gifts, two merchantbrothers who had journeyed fromfaraway lands after looking for an enlightenedone, told King Okkalapa thathe should guard these strands well forthey were no ordinary hairs.The king set to his task with zeal andon the summit of a 10,000-year-oldsacred hill he enshrined the hairs in atemple of gold, which was enclosed ina temple of silver, then one of tin, thencopper, then lead, then marble and,finally, one of plain iron-brick.real and beautifully made paper ones – forofferings. Buddha images, ceremonial paperumbrellas, books, golden thrones, incensesticks and antiques are also on sale. Howeverhot it may be outside, you’ll find thewalkway cool, shady and calm. It’s this quiet,subdued atmosphere on the entrance stepsthat makes the impact so great as you arriveat the platform.Also linked to the Shwedagon complex’ssouthern gate is the Maha Wizaya Paya(Map p 48 ; U Htaung Bo St; admission K200; h24hr).It’s a rather plain but well-proportioned zedibuilt in 1980 to commemorate the unificationof Theravada Buddhism in Myanmar.The king of Nepal contributed sacred relicsfor the zedi’s relic chamber and Myanmarmilitary strongman Ne Win had it toppedwith an 11-level hti – two more levels thanthe hti at Shwedagon.You emerge from semi-gloom into a dazzlingexplosion of technicoloured glitter, forShwedagon is not just one huge, glowingzedi (stupa). Around the mighty stupa clusteran incredible assortment of smaller zedi,statues, temples, shrines, images and tazaung(small pavilions). Somehow, the brightgold of the main stupa makes everythingelse seem brighter and larger than life.Stupas – indeed, all Buddhist structures –should be walked around clockwise, soturn left at the top of the steps and, like thecrowds of locals, start strolling. During theheat of the day, you’ll probably have to confineyourself to the mat pathway laid around45YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTS

46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 500 m1234‚23# úPyidaungsuYeikthaSt9#ÿKin WonMin Gyi StTo ChineseEmbassy12 # ÿ4th StWadan StThantaman Rd5th StA# ý33AKaingdan St42# # âNationalMuseum9th St# 44# fLan ThitJetty# ú 18Padonma Rd£ # Pyay RdMin Ye Kyaw Swar Rd7th StZa Ga War RdAnawrahta RdLan Thit StHledan St11th StPyay RdPongyi StYangon RiverZa Ga War RdPongyi St13th StMyoma Kyaung RdSamon Rd15th Stthe platform – unless your bare feet can takethe heat of the uncovered marble paving.The Stupa & Its TreasuresThe hill on which the stupa stands is 190ftabove sea level and the platform covers over12 acres. Prior to the British takeover ofsouthern Myanmar there had been defensiveearthworks around the paya, but thesewere considerably extended by the British.The emplacements for their cannons canstill be seen outside the outer wall.The main stupa, which is completelysolid, rises from its platform in a fairly standardpattern. First there is the plinth, whichstands 21ft above the clutter of the mainplatform and immediately sets Shwedagonabove the lesser structures. Smaller stupassit on this raised platform level – four largeones mark the four cardinal directions, fourmedium-sized ones mark the four corners ofthe basically square platform and 60 smallones run around the perimeter.BDAGON66Lanma Daw StMahabandoola RdBMadaw RdMyomaGroundLanmada£ #17th St# á 1St 21st22nd St# ú20# ú # Ú26 Chinesetemple2 CHINA# Ú19th StZiwaca StBogyoke Aung San RdLatha StCU Wi Za Ya RdPan Tra St6#Bo Ywe RdShwedagon Pagoda Rd66ZoologicalGarden£# þ37Pha Yar Rd34 î## þ 31New # þ # úCentral35 HotelBogyoke 30 # ú ## þ#ÿMarket4317 384 # ú24 22 25# Þ ð### úú # ú # úTheingyi14Plaza # ÿ2841 # þ# û # þ271040# ú# ÿ32# ú 53 # à29 # Ú6 # ú# ÿ7# ÿ ð#23rd St24th St25th St27th StBo Yar Nyunt StNa Wa Day StYaw Min Gee St28th St66Shwe Bontha St29th St30th St31st StTOWN19# ú# ÿ# ÿ21# ÿ 681115CDVarious planetary posts around the baseconform to the days of the week, and localspray at the station that represents the daythey were born. If you know what day youwere born, locals can point you to the appropriatepost. The one for Mars (Tuesday) correspondsto Aung San Suu Kyi’s birthday – thisis where she prays whenever she visits theshrine; look up and you’ll note a closed-circuitTV camera trained on the spot.From this base, the zedi rises first in threeterraces, then in ‘octagonal’ terraces andthen in five circular bands – together theseelements add another 98ft to the stupa’sheight.The shoulder of the bell is decorated with16 ‘flowers’. The bell is topped by the ‘invertedbowl’, another traditional element ofstupa architecture, and above this stand themouldings and then the ‘lotus petals’. Theseconsist of a band of down-turned petals, followedby a band of up-turned petals.Strand Rd0 0.2 milesDAh Lan Paya Pagoda RdSee NorthernYangon Map (p48)Merchant StBo Min Gaung StSee East CentralYangon Map(p42)39 # þ# ú16# ÿ# þ 3613‚Sule Paya Rd1234

West Central Yangonæ Top SightsNational Museum ...................................A1æ Sights24 New Delhi Restaurant............................D325 Nilar Biryani & Cold Drink......................D326 Parisian Cake & Café .............................B427 Shwe Balee .............................................D41 Dargah of Bahadur Shah Zafar..............C1 Shwe Kaung Laung ...................... (see 38)2 Kheng Hock Keong ................................ C4 28 Shwe Mei Tha Su....................................D33 Moseah Yeshua Synagogue ................. C4 29 Thone Pan Hla ........................................D44 Sri Kali .................................................... D3 30 Tokyo Fried Chicken ..............................D35 Sule Paya................................................ D4 31 Zawgyi House .........................................D3ÿ Sleepingû Drinking6 Daddy's Home ....................................... D4 32 Zero Zone Rock Restaurant ..................C47 Garden Guest House............................. D48 Golden Smile Inn ................................... D4 ý Entertainment9 Governor's Residence............................A1 33 American Center....................................A210 May Shan Hotel ..................................... D411 Okinawa Guest House........................... D4 þ Shopping12 Panda Hotel............................................ A2 34 Bogyoke Aung San Market....................D313 Parkroyal ................................................ D2 35 FMI Centre ..............................................D314 Sunflower Hotel ..................................... D3 36 FXB Shop ................................................D215 White House Hotel................................. D4 37 Gallery Sixty Five....................................D238 Globe Tailoring .......................................D3ú Eating Heritage Gallery ........................... (see 34)16 Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle 39 La Pyat Wun Plaza..................................D2Shop..................................................... D2 40 Morning Market......................................D4Burmese Sweets Vendors ...........(see 35) 41 Theingyi Zei ............................................C4City Mart........................................(see 30) Yo Yo May ..................................... (see 34)17 Danuphyu Daw Saw YeeMyanma Restaurant........................... D3 ï Information18 Feel Myanmar Food................................B1 American Center.......................... (see 33)Fresh-Squeezed Juice Vendors ..(see 34) 42 Asian Trails ............................................. A119 Golden Tea ............................................. D4 43 Bookstalls ...............................................D320 Grilled Snack Vendors........................... C4 DHL.................................................(see 13)21 Hong Lau Lau......................................... C4 Good News Travels ...................... (see 35)22 Ingyin New South India Food Pan Hlaing International Clinic.... (see 35)Centre.................................................. D3Lotaya............................................(see 34) ï Transport23 Maw Shwe Li Restaurant ...................... A3 44 IWT ..........................................................A447YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTSThe banana bud is the final element ofthe zedi before the hti tops it. Like the lotuspetals below, the banana bud is actually coveredwith no fewer than 13,153 plates of gold,measuring 1 sq ft each – unlike the lower elements,which are merely covered with goldleaf. The seven-tiered hti is made of iron andagain plated with gold. Even without the varioushanging bells, it weighs well over a ton.The hti tiers get smaller from bottom totop, and from the uppermost tier projects theshaft, which is hung with gold bells, silverbells and various items of jewellery. The topmostvane, with its flag, turns with the wind.It is gold- and silver-plated and studdedwith 1100 diamonds totalling 278 carats –not to mention 1383 other stones. Finally, atthe very top of the vane rests the diamondorb – a hollow golden sphere studded with4351 diamonds, weighing 1800 carats in total.The very top of the orb is tipped with asingle 76-carat diamond.Chaukhtatgyi Paya & NgahtatgyiPayaBUDDHIST TEMPLESe¨xCk'qp'äkI".urC" NH=¾' =:"qp'äkI".urC"Fifty years ago there was a giant standingBuddha poking his head above the templesand monasteries here, but one day hegot tired and collapsed into a heap on thefloor, whereupon he was replaced with the

48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of YangonInya LakeAung San136þ## ú22Suu Kyi's#æHledan#£house13 ÿ#2524#ú# úSANCHAUNG38þ### ú 21ú2729666 ÿ# ÿ#15 # ú14 þ#41# # ú1#â3 Kyemyindaing10 31# £þ#3923# ú Martyrs'#ä Mausoleum # úResistance666 6630ParkPanhlaing4 #÷# £# Ú6 #People's Shwedagon Paya# îPark# æYangonPeople's# # Ú KandawgyiGeneralSquare2# ÿ47PalaceHospital# úÿ#17HotelAhlone Rd20666# £#ë 5þ#42 See West Central Yangon Map (p46)ABCDmonster-sized lazy reclining buddha you dha image at the Ngahtatgyi Paya (Map p 48 ;see today. One of Myanmar’s more beautifulShwegondine Rd; admission $2; h24hr). Sitting in6666637þ#33# ûHanthawady # £# 9 ÿ# ÿ#112# û3512#þ#8San Pya34Fish# ûÿ#BAHANMarket 18#43reclining buddhas, the placid face of the calm gold and white repose with a healthyChaukhtatgyi Buddha (Map p 48 ; Shwegondinesplash of precious stones to boot, it’s oneRd; admission free; h24hr) is topped by a of the most impressive sitting buddhas incrown encrusted with diamonds and other southern Myanmar. In fact, it’s worth goingprecious stones. Housed in a large metalroofedto see for its carved wooden backdrop alone.shed, only a short distance northeastof the Shwedagon Paya, this huge figure isKandawgyi LakeLAKEsurprisingly little known and hardly publicisedkn'etÉäkI"at all. Close to the Buddha’s feet is the (Map p 48 ; admission K2000) Occupying primesmall shrine to Ma Thay, a holy man who Yangon real estate, this natural lake close tohas the power to stop rain and grant sailors the city centre is a good place for a stroll.a safe journey.Don’t expect untamed nature or meditativeAttached to the temple complex is thequiet here, as the footpath surroundingShweminwon Sasana Yeiktha Meditationthe circumference of Kandawgyi also runsCentre, where large numbers of lo-alongside a busy road. Also known by its lit-cals gather to meditate. It’s not hard to find eral translation, Royal Lake (Dawgyi Kan),someone to show you around the adjoining the lake is most attractive at sunset, whenmonasteries.the glittering Shwedagon is reflected in itsVirtually across the street from calm waters. You’ll find the best sunset viewChaukhtatgyi Paya is a gorgeous seated Bud-from the lake’s eastern edge.YANGONNorthern YangonYangon RiverBa YintNaung RdHanthawady RdStrand RdHledan StNat Sin StT hirimingalar StBaho RdLower Kyee Myin Daing RdInsein RdPyay Rd666666Bargaryar StShin Saw PuRdUniversity Ave RdPyay RdAhlone RdInya RdDhama Zedi RdThan LwinRdU Wi Za Ra RdInya Myain gRdKan Baw Sa RdShweg on dAr Z a Nir St66U Htaung BoStKaba Aye PagodaRd666i ne RdNo (1) Industrial RdPagoda RdKabaAyeSayasan StThathana Yeiktha RdWin GaBarStBahan St

EF66BauktawYANKIN# £166KyaikkasanGrounds(Sports Field)# £ TamweSwimmingPool St266Myittar# ÚChaukhtatgyiNyuntPaya# £# Ú366Ma HlwaGone 3# ú19# £6626#úKandawgyi4Lake# ú# ú 40 #þ663228EFSeveral of the city’s embassies, clinicsand smaller hotels are in the lake’s vicinity,the majority north of the lake. Just east ofthe Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, on the southernside of the lake, floats a Shin Upagotshrine. Upagot is a Bodhisattva (Buddhistsaint) who is said to protect human beingsin moments of mortal danger.The eastern side of the lake is dominatedby a very expensive governmentfinancedproject including a small parkand a playground for children, as well asthe fanciful or monstrous (depending onyour taste) Karaweik, a reinforced concretereproduction of a royal barge. Apartfrom being something of a local attractionin its own right, the Karaweik (Sanskrit forGaruda, the legendary bird-mount of theHindu god Vishnu) is also the name of agovernment-owned restaurant nearby.University AveRdN at Mauk RdPhoS einKan Yeik Tha Rd0 1.2 km#e0 0.6 milesR dThin GanGyun RdTha Mein Ban Yan StSet Yone Rd (Mill Rd)Aung MWai Za Yan TarRdingatar RdKaba Aye Paya &Mahapasana CaveBUDDHIST MONUMENTSkmõCea".urC" NH=¾' mhCp:snliHU='8UWhen the designers were asked to comeup with a suitable blueprint for the ‘worldpeace’ zedi, which was built for the 1954–56Sixth Buddhist Synod, they obviously decidedthat Mickey Mouse and friends were theepitome of world peace, because the KabaAye Paya (Map p 38 ; Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; admissionfree; h24hr) has a Disneyesque feel andlook to it. The 112ft-high paya also measures112ft around its base. It stands about 5 milesnorth of the city centre, a little beyond theInya Lake Hotel. The interior of the monumentis hollow and contains some nice Buddhistsculptures, including a lei-myet-hna(four-sided Buddha sculpture).Just north, Mahapasana (Map p38 ; KabaAye Pagoda Rd; admission free; h24hr), the‘great cave’, is a totally artificial. It was herethat the Sixth Buddhist Synod was held in1954–56 to coincide with the 2500th anniversaryof the Buddha’s enlightenment. Thisenormous cave (measuring 456ft by 371ft; itcan accommodate up to 10,000 people) tookonly 14 months to build. It helped that therewere 63,000 labourers. The cave is still usedto hold grand religious ceremonies.Inya LakeLAKEa='"lY;"kn'Inya Lake (Map p 48 ) is roughly five timeslarger than Kandawgyi, but to see actualwater you must explore on foot and bravethe powerful sun. There aren’t many opportunitiesfor shade, only scattered umbrellas,which are popular with young couplessneaking a little alone time.Before reclusive dictator Ne Win died inDecember 2002, he lived on University AveRd at one end of the lake while Aung SanSuu Kyi, who was released from house arrestat number 54 in November 2010, was atthe other end. For years these two importantfigures in contemporary Myanmar historyresided like powerful nat locked in a battleof wills.Myanmar Gems Museum &Gems MarketMUSEUM¨mn'mC¾ekY;k'mYk'rtn;¨ptiuk' NH=¾'ekY;k'mYk'aer;='"¨pxn'"(Map p38 ; %665 365; 66 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd;admission $5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) Just northof Parami Rd, thisgovernment-owned museumis meant to impress – starting withthe world’s largest sapphire, which comes49YANGON SIGHTSSIGHTS

50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top SightsChaukhtatgyi Paya .................................E2Shwedagon Paya................................... C4æ Sights24 House of Memories................................B325 Le Planteur .............................................D326 Royal Garden..........................................E427 Sabai @ DMZ ..........................................C328 Seit Taing Kya.........................................E41 Bogyoke Aung San Museum ................ D3 Sharky's .........................................(see 14)2 Maha Wizaya Paya ................................ D4 29 Sharky's ..................................................C33 Ngahtatgyi Paya .....................................E3 Singapore's Kitchen......................(see 17)4 People's Park ......................................... C4 30 SK Hot Pot ..............................................D35 Yangon Zoological Gardens.................. D4 31 Thai Kitchen............................................C332 Yin Fong SeafoodActivities, Courses & ToursRestaurant ...........................................E46 Happy World .......................................... A47 Happy World .......................................... C4 û Drinking8 Mahasi Meditation Centre .................... D2 Captain's Bar .................................(see 15)9 Panditarama Meditation Centre........... C2 33 Ginki Kids ................................................D210 Seri Beauty & Health............................. C3 34 Inya 1 .......................................................C235 Mr Guitar Café ........................................D2ÿ Sleeping11 Alamanda Inn......................................... D2 Entertainment12 Classique Inn.......................................... C2 JJ City............................................(see 40)13 Comfort Inn............................................ C3 Pioneer.......................................... (see 20)14 Guest Care Hotel ................................... C3 YGN Bar ........................................ (see 20)15 Savoy Hotel............................................ C316 Sedona Hotel ..........................................D1 þ Shopping17 Summit Parkview .................................. C4 36 Augustine's Souvenir Shop................... A118 Winner Inn .............................................. C2 37 Beikthano Gallery................................... D138 Blazon Centre.........................................C3ú Eating39 Dagon Centre .........................................B3Alamanda Inn................................. (see 11) Elephant House ............................ (see 22)19 Ashoka Indian Restaurant .....................E3 40 Mingala Zei..............................................E4Aung Thuka................................... (see 31) 41 Monument Books...................................C320 Black Canyon Coffee............................. C4 42 Nandawun...............................................B421 Café Dibar .............................................. C3Coffee Circles ............................... (see 14) ï Information22 Green Elephant.......................................B1 43 Alliance Francaise ..................................B223 Hla Myanma Htamin Zain ..................... C3 Myanmar Himalaya Trekking....... (see 17)from Mogok (to the northeast of Mandalay).The sapphire measures 6.7in in height,and is nearly 26lb in weight – this somehowtranslates to 63,000 carats. The museumalso boasts the world’s largest jade boulder,rough ruby and star sapphire. Other not-soimpressiveclaims include the only mineralwith ‘imperial’ in its name.Bogyoke Aung San MuseumMUSEUMbiul'xYŸp'ea;='zn'"¨ptiuk'(Map p 48 ; Bogyoke Aung San Museum St; admissionfree) Now open only once a year on 19July, Martyrs’ Day, the former home of GeneralAung San and his wife Daw Kin Kyicontains remnants of another era. Inside the1920s house you will find several old familyphotos, which of course include daughterAung San Suu Kyi as a little girl.2 ActivitiesMassageAfter a long day slogging around the city,what could be better than a massage? A professionalcentre with no dodgy side is SeriBeauty and Health (Map p 48 ; %534 205; 118Dhama Zedi Rd; massage per hr K5000; h9am-6pm).Train RideMore in the category of sightseeing ratherthan transportation, the Yangon CircleLine (tickets $1) is a slow-moving, not par-

ticularly comfortable three-hour trip aroundYangon and the neighbouring countryside.However, it’s a great way to experience commuterlife in the big city. You can always hopoff at any station and take a taxi back to thecity centre. Trains leave at 8.30am, 10.30am,11.30am, 1pm and 2.30pm from platform 6/7at the Yangon Train Station (Map p 42 ; BogyokeAung San Rd). Be aware that the trainsdon’t always do the full circuit; after reachinga station two hours from Yangon, ourtrain simply headed back the way we came!Only US$ or FECs (Foreign Exchange Certificates;see p 365 ) are accepted for the fare(you’ll also need your passport), and thetrain is least crowded at weekends.CCoursesMeditationSeveral monasteries in Yangon welcomeforeigners to meditation courses. The mostfamous centre in Yangon is the MahasiMeditation Centre (Map p 48 ; %541 971; http://web.ukonline.co.uk/buddhism/mahasi.htm; 16 ThathanaYeiktha Rd, Bahan Township), founded in1947 by the late Mahasi Sayadaw, perhapsMyanmar’s greatest meditation teacher. TheMahasi Sayadaw technique strives for intensive,moment-to-moment awareness of everyphysical movement, every mental and physicalsensation and, ultimately, every thought.The centre only accepts foreigners who canstay for six to 12 weeks.Two of the Mahasi centre’s chief meditationteachers, Sayadaw U Pandita and SayadawU Janaka, have established their ownhighly regarded centres in Yangon: PanditaramaMeditation Centre (Map p 48 ; %535448; www.panditarama.net; 80-A Than Lwin Rd, BahanTownship) and Chanmyay Yeiktha MeditationCentre (Map p38 ; %661 479; www.chanmyay.org; 55-A Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd). Both have secondbranches with private quarters, especiallygeared for foreigners, who must commit toa stay of one week. Panditarama’s forestmeditation centre (%949 450) is 2 milesnortheast off the highway to Bago. Chanmyay’sbranch (%620 321), set among gardens inHmawbi, is a 50-minute drive north of Yangon;one-month stays are preferred.zFestivals & EventsCrowds of pilgrims descend on the Shwedagonfor a paya pwe (pagoda festival), oneof the more important Myanmar holidays.This takes place over the March full moonday, the last full moon before the MyanmarNew Year. In the Western calendar it normallyfalls in late February/early March.Other major festivals in Yangon:Independence Day (4 January) Includesa seven-day fair at Kandawgyi; see p 16 .Water Festival/Thingyan (April) TheMyanmar New Year is celebrated in wetpandemonium; see p 16 for more details.Buddha’s birthday (April/May) CelebrateBuddha’s enlightenment; see p 16 .Martyrs’ Day (19 July) Commemorates theassassination of Bogyoke Aung San and hiscomrades. It's also the only day his formerhome is open to the public – see p 50 .Murugu Festival (March or April dependingon lunar calendar) Held at Yangon’sHindu temples (see p 43 ), it involvescolourful processions.4SleepingThe price of accommodation in Yangon islargely the same as it was a few years ago, and51YANGON COURSESCOURSESYANGON FOR CHILDRENThere aren’t a whole lot of attractions in Yangon meant to appeal directly to the littleones, but there’s no lack of locals willing to provide attention.The most convenient option is Happy World Kandaw Mingala Garden (Map p 48 ; %243 434;Shwedagon Pagoda Rd; admission K1200; h9am-9pm); Thirimingala Zei (Map p 48 ;%212 678; 3rd fl,Thirimingala Zei, Lower Kyee Myin Dyaing Rd; admission K1200; h9am-9pm). The Thirimingala Zeibranch has indoor tunnels and ball pits, and the Kandaw Mingala Garden branch, locatednear the south entrance to Shwedagon Paya, resembles an outdoor amusement park.A less palatable option is the Yangon Zoological Gardens (Map p 48 ; Kan Yeik ThaRd; admission K2000; h8am-6pm), although many of the animals were relocated to NayPyi Taw Zoo in 2008. The expansive grounds, which date back to 1901, also include anaquarium and amusement park.Hotels with swimming pools, including the Governor’s Residence, the Parkroyal, the Savoyand the Sedona, charge $10 per nonguest for single-day use of their swimming facilities.

52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the Strand is easily the most expensive hotel in Yangon. Things were quite differentback in 1979, when Tony Wheeler reviewed the hotel for the first edition of this guidebook:YANGON‘Staying at the Strand is full of amusing little touches – beside the reception desk thereis a glass faced cabinet labelled “lost & found”. Most of the articles were clearly lost halfa century ago, not many ladies carry delicate little folding fans around these days. Thesingle lift is ancient but smoothly operating. In the restaurant the maitre de is grimly efficientin a crumpled grey suit in which he looks very ill at ease. The waiters call everybodysir, male or female. Both the bar and restaurant close at 9pm but a small cache of MandalayBeer from the Peoples’ Brewery is kept behind the reception desk should you wishto continue drinking. By 11pm you are likely to be feeling pretty lonely in the lounge area,though, just the occasional Strand rat scampering across the floor to keep you company.On the last night of one Burma visit, to my utter amazement hot water came from theshower when I turned on the tap.’that means guesthouses and hotels are stillrelatively cheap. There’s virtually nil in the wayof fresh new faces, particularly in the budgetand midrange categories, and much of thecity’s budget accommodation is as dank anddreary as ever.The prices quoted here are high-seasonwalk-in rates, but almost all midrange andtop-end hotels offer discounts of up to 50%.Many of the midrange and top-end hotelsalso provide perks such as airport pick-up,internet access and full-service business centres,and all provide some form of breakfast.Only one hotel accepted credit cards at researchtime and some high-end places alsoadd a 10% service charge and a 10% governmenttax.It’s worth noting that all large hotels willhave taken part in some financial agreementwith the ruling junta to establish theirbusiness. Some, like the large Traders Hotel(Map p 42 ) in central Yangon, are jointventures between foreign companies andthe military. Others, such as the KandawgyiPalace Hotel (Map p 48 ) or the CentralHotel (Map p 46 ), are owned outright by thegovernment or by those with close militaryconnections. As far as we are aware, thoselisted here have a fairly minimal governmentownership share – if any. See p 21 formore information.CITY CENTREStrand Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 42 ; %243 377; www.ghmhotels.com; 92Strand Rd; ste $550-1100; aiW) The Strand isa relic of the same colonial-era legacy as theOriental in Bangkok, the Raffles in Singaporeand the Eastern & Oriental in Georgetown,but boasts what is arguably a more‘colourful’ history than its peers.Opened in 1901 by the famed Sarkiesbrothers, the hotel in its early years hostedthe likes of Rudyard Kipling, George Orwelland Somerset Maugham. During WWII, theStrand was used to house Japanese troops,and Burmese nationals were allegedly notallowed to stay in the hotel until 1945. Andfrom 1962 to 1989, in what was quite possiblyits darkest period (see boxed text) thehotel was owned and managed by the Burmesegovernment.The latest incarnation of the Strand datesto 1995. It’s very much a luxury affair, withheaps of charm and history – even the bathroomfixtures are vintage – and a high levelof service. But it’s worth mentioning that theStrand doesn’t have the same modern comfortsas other hotels of this class (the TVs arenon-flatscreen and small, internet is availableonly in the lobby or business centre, anddon’t even bother looking for an iPod jack).Note also that, at the time of research, onlycash in US$ dollars was accepted, so bookonline or make sure you have a lot of cash.Even if you can’t afford the rent, theStrand is well worth a visit for a drink in thebar, high tea ($18; h2.30-5pm) in the lobbylounge or a splurge lunch at the café.oMother Land Inn 2 BUDGET HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %291 343; www.myanmarmotherlandinn.com; 433 Lower Pazundaung Rd; dm $8,r $10-25; ai) Take a pinch of backpackerbohemia, a dollop of professional service,a massive portion of cleanliness, mix wellwith a generous helping of travel advice

and services, leave to marinate with enviouslyattired and proportioned rooms and,voila, it’s the Mother Land Inn 2. There areof course downsides, namely it’s often fullybooked and is located in a slightly dodgy’hood a long walk or a short taxi ride fromthe centre. But the free airport transfer, fastinternet access (per hour $1) and a solidbreakfast more than make up for them.Governor’s Residence BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 46 ; %229 860; www.governorsresidence.com;35 Taw Win St; r $154-242, ste $279-319; aiWs)If you’d like to live like a sovereign, this UKownedteak mansion of period elegance andmodern luxury in the leafy embassy district isfor you. In the ’20s the Governor’s Residencewas a guesthouse for important nationalsof the Kayah ethnic group, but now, after amasterful restoration, it’s a tourist’s ideal ofcolonial luxury. A waiter with a crystal cocktailis always on hand and the pool mergesgently into the lawns and sparkles in reflectedbeauty. The glorious rooms have ever-solightlyperfumed air, teak floors, cloudy softbeds and stone baths with rose-petal water.Panorama Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %253 077; panoramaygn@myanmar.com.mm; 294-300 Pansodan St; r $30-40, ste $45-50; aiW) Within walking distance of thetrain station and Bogyoke Market, and boastingdistant views over the Shwedagon Paya,the aptly named 10-storey Panorama offerssome of the best value in this price range. Allrooms are equally vast and similarly well appointed,so unless you really require a bathtub,save yourself some money by going forone of the cheaper standard rooms.May Shan Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 46 ; %252 986; www.mayshan.com; 115 SulePaya Rd; s/d/tr $20/25/40; aiW) It’s not exactlya steal, and the single rooms are prettytight and lack windows, but the combinationof convenient location, gracious serviceand ample amenities (TV, air-conditioning,wi-fi) make the May Shan the best optionin the area immediately surrounding SulePaya. If you can afford it, the triple rooms(ask for room 601) are spacious and have arguablythe best views of any hotel in the city.Three Seasons Hotel GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 42 ; %293 304; phyuaung@mptmail.net.mm;83-85 52nd St; s/d $12/18;a) The nine rooms inthis homey guesthouse are large, spotless andwell endowed with everything that wouldmake your granny smile. The outdoor terrace,with tree shade, is a nice place to sit andwatch the world cruise by. And to top it off,it’s very friendly and helpful and is located ona block that is especially quiet at night, so youshould be able to sleep undisturbed.Okinawa Guest House HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %374 318; 64 32nd St; dm/s/d$5/14/18;a) A brief walk from Sule Payais the red pitched roof of this charmingbougainvillea-fronted guesthouse. The interioris a bizarre hotchpotch of decorationsand building styles that blend wood, bambooand red brick. The handful of roomsare small and dark but very clean, althoughnoise – both from the street and the staff –can be an issue here. It also has a cosy dormupstairs for penny-pinchers and a numberof communal areas with old wooden chairsand tables.Parkroyal BUSINESS HOTEL $$$(Map p 46 ; %250 388; enquiry@parkroyalhotels.com.mm; 33 Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; r $90; aiWs) This smart, newish, centrally locatedbusiness hotel is the Yangon branch of aSingaporean chain. If you’re haven’t bookeda room through an agent, you’ll only haveaccess to their very capable deluxe rooms,which feature all the amenities you’d expectfrom a hotel of this price. The Parkroyal isalso the only hotel we’re aware of in Yangonthat accepts a credit card (in this case, Visaonly) – at a hefty 12% commission.Thammada Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %243 3639; www.thamadahotel.com; AhLan Paya Pagoda Rd; r/ste $44/88;a) Located inthe same complex as the Thamada Cinema,this longstanding joint venture with Singaporeboasts old-school rooms with lots ofworn wood and heavy, handsome furnishings.Take a look at a few, as some rooms aremarkedly smaller than others. The groundfloor365 Café is convenient for eats, drinksand wi-fi.Yoma Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %299 243; www.yomahotelone.com; 146Bogyoke Aung San Rd; r $10-18;a) Although it’s abit of a hike from the city centre, this is one ofthe tidier and better-run midrange places intown. The rooms are a bit frumpy and clearlydate from another era, but are well equippedand clean. There are five floors and no lift, soif you’re on the top floor you can eat that extracake without guilt. A tip: avoid the roomson Floor G unless you desire the combinationof comically low ceilings and furry friends.53YANGON SLEEPINGSLEEPING

e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHOPFINISH BOGYOKE AUNGSAN MARKETDISTANCE APPROX 1.4MILESDURATION TWO TOTHREE HOURSLatha StAnawrahta Rd21st St22nd StBo Ywe RdCHINATOWN23rd StTheingyiPlaza24th StShwedagon Pagoda Rd6 6 6Yangon RiverNewBogyokeMarketOpen-AirMarket#17#15#16É25th StÉ#1426th StKon Zay Dan St27th St28th St0 300 m#e 0 0.2 miles#e#19ÉÉShwe Bontha St'€É#1829th St30thStBo Sun PatRd#13&~31st St#1É32nd StMerchant StSule Paya Rd33rd St34th StMahabandoola Garden StMahabandoolaGardenÉ#2ÉÉ#11#12#3É#4#535th StBank StÉ#1036th St#6Bogyoke Aung San RdPansodan StÉ É#7#8Bo Aung Kyaw StMahabandoola Rd37th StÉ38th St#9Seikkan Thar St39th St40th StStrand Rd6641st StDowntown YangonWalking TourYangon is a great city to explore on foot,and this tour takes in the best of colonialYangon, flirts with Indian flamboyance, getsserene in Buddhist temples, lightens yourwallet in the markets and throws in somecrystal-ball-gazing for good measure. Supplementyour walk with Historical Walks inYangon: A Myanmar Heritage Trust GuideMap – map available from Silkworm Books(www.silkwormbooks.com).We recommend starting this tour in thecool hours of the morning, so kick it off witha caffeine boost and Burmese-style breakfastat a teahouse such as 1 Thone PanHla, a typical Burmese teahouse. From hereit’s only a short walk to the 2200-year-old2 Sule Paya, the geographic and commercialheart of the city, and where the Britishdesignedgrid street pattern was centred.Make a circle or two around the monumentto get just the right angle for your photograph,but don't feel obligated to go inside,as the largely unremarkable interior isprobably not worth the $2 entry fee. Aftera complete rotation or two and an insidevisit, cross the busy traffic circle to the eastand you’ll find the twice-rebuilt 3 CityHall, a yellow colonial building with orientalovertones. On the next corner further easton Mahabandoola Rd is the 4 (former)Immigration Office, once one of the largestdepartment stores in Asia, now seeminglyabandoned. Across the street is the5 Immanuel Baptist Church, originallybuilt in 1830, though the present structuredates from 1885.Continuing east on Mahabandoola Rdyou’ll pass a couple of alleyways crammedwith food stalls, many selling the type ofdeep-fried snacks and sweets that theBurmese seem to love so much. Considerrefuelling and take the next major rightonto Pansodan St, where on the east sideof the street you’ll find several stalls sellingsecond-hand and photocopied books. TheBurmese are big readers and this strip iscolloquially referred to as Yangon's open-airlibrary.

About halfway down this block you’ll seethe 6 High Court Building on your right –in name at least, the highest legal authorityin the land. Continuing along this wide andgenerally empty section of Pansodan St.It's hard not to feel minuscule, particularlywhen walking by the huge 7 Inland WaterTransport offices and the even grander8 Myanma Port Authority building. Continuesouth to Strand Rd, the last east-westthoroughfare before the Yangon River.Two blocks to your left is the 9 StrandHotel, whose restored façade evokes anotherera. You may not be able to afford a room, butthe air-conditioned lobby, café and bar makea good rest stop along the way.When you’re ready to brave the heat anduneven sidewalks again, walk west alongStrand Rd for a block past Pansodan St,where you’ll see on your right thea Customs House, built in 1915, and onyour left the b Law Court, an impressivelookingcolonnaded building. Police willprevent you approaching this last building, soturn north, just past the Customs House, andthen left onto boisterous Bank St and up ontoSule Paya Rd, where you can discover howthe remainder of your walking tour will panout by consulting one of the many fortunetellerswho hang out under the trees.Bordering this street is a 55yd obelisk, amonument to the country’s independence,standing in the middle of the heat-stainedc Mahabandoola Garden. A glancethrough the fence is enough to give you anidea of what goes on here – no need to paythe K500 entry fee.This brings you back to the Sule Paya,from where you can continue west downMahabandoola Rd through the chaotic Indianand Chinese quarters of the city. Roughlyspeaking, the Indian quarter extends as farwest as the Shwedagon Pagoda Rd, while theChinese quarter begins at about 21st St andextends several blocks further west. A gooddrink stop and an appropriate taste of Yangon'sLittle India is the open-air lassi stalld Shwe Bali, near the corner of Bo SunPat Rd.Continue west along Mahabandoola beforedetouring south onto 26th St in order to paya visit to e Moseah Yeshua Synagogue.Retrace your steps to Mahabandoola andcarry on westwards a little further until youreach the bursting f Theingyi Zei market.If you arrive early enough (ideally before9am), you can catch the action along theadjacent g open-air market on 26th St.Exit onto Anawrahta Rd and head eastuntil you crash into the h Sri Kali temple.Continue east along Anawrahta St, turningleft down 29th St, where i Danu PhyuDaw Saw Yee Myanma Restaurant, one ofcentral Yangon’s most lauded Burmese restaurants,is your lunch stop.From here it’s only a short hike north tothe sprawling mess of j Bogyoke AungSan Market, where you can begin a new sortof tour, a slightly more difficult one that combineswalking and shopping.55YANGON SLEEPING SLEEPING

56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %240 054; www.goldenlandpages.com/beauty; 188-192 33rd St; r $8-24;a) A convenientlocation near central Yangon’s attractions,restaurants and internet shops, and exceedinglytidy rooms with friendly and confidentservice make this one of the better budgetchoices in central Yangon. The cheapestrooms don’t have windows while the moreexpensive front-side rooms boast heaps ofnatural light, so depending on your budget,look at a few.Panda Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 46 ; %212 850; www.myanmarpandahotel.com; 205 Wadan St; r $33-45; ai) One of themore appealing hotels in this price range isthis 13-storey high-rise west of the city centre.It has bright and enticing rooms with excellentbathrooms. It’s in a peaceful residentialarea, but is close enough to downtown to beworthwhile. Popular with tour groups.May Fair Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 42 ;%253 454; maytinmg@gmail.com; 5738th St; s/d $12/15;a) This family-run inn hasfreshly painted rooms that are a little spartanbut ever reliable. It’s more equipped todeal with the traveller looking for tranquillityrather than a party, and it has a loyal clienteleof returnees for a good reason. The complimentarybreakfast is served in the small communalarea. Only US$ dollars accepted.Ocean Pearl Inn HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %297 007; www.oceanpearlinn.com; 215Bo Ta Taung Pagoda Rd; s/d/tr $13/18/23;a) Apaint job and rooms washed and polishedby a team of cleaning addicts make theOcean Pearl one of the tidiest choices in thebudget range (admittedly not much of an accomplishmentin Yangon). Another perk isfree airport pickup – mention it when bookingor look for the Ocean Pearl sign whenyou arrive in Yangon.Queen’s Park Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %296 447; www.qpyangon.com; 132Anawrahta Rd; r/ste $15-33/32-36; ai) Unusuallyfor a hotel in this category, the rooms aremore appealing than the dowdy receptionarea – though only by a little. The staff aresweet, and slow days mean easy discounts.White House Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %240 780; white house@mptmail.net.mm;69/71 Kon Zay Dan St; s/d $8-15/14-20;a) The positivesin this long-running backpacker jointare the generous breakfasts, rooftop hammocks,cold beer, expansive views and usefultravel desk. The negatives are a thigh-burningnumber of stairs, small and sometimes windowlessrooms and basic bathrooms (bothshared and private). Kon Zay Dan St is locatedbetween 26th St and 27th St.Tokyo Guest House HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %386 828; tokyoguesthouse.yangon@gmail.com; 200 Bo Aung Kyaw St; s/d $9/14;a)Highlights at this friendly budget hotel arethe sunny terrace with views and the roomcleanliness. Lowlights are the fact that saidrooms are windowless and very cramped.Some more centrally located budget andmidrange options:New Aye Yar Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %256 938; www.newayeyarhotel.com; 170-176 Bo Aung Kyaw St; s $25, d $30, ste$30-35; ai) This good-value high-rise hasavoided the tropical rot that has struckdown so many of its cousins.Eastern Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %293 815; www.myanmareasternhotel.com; 194-196 Bo Myat Tun Rd; s/d $15/20; ai)The 40 rooms here are utterly unremarkable,but are clean and boast amenitiessuch as satellite TV, hot water and fridge.Cherry Guest House HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %340 623; 278/300 MahabandoolaGarden St; s $8-12, d$14;a) One of the fewnew places we encountered on this researchtrip, the Cherry looks its age andits 13 rooms have wall-mounted flatscreenTVs. It’s located on the 4th floor of this(relatively) quiet street – look for thestreet-level sign that says ‘Guest House’.Golden Smile Inn HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %373 589; myathiri@gmail.com.mm;644 Merchant St; r $14, with shared bathroom$12; a) Located up a slightly scary stairway,the Golden Smile is rather dark anddank, and is not much of a bargain, butits popularity and the communal balconymake it a good choice for those who emphasisesocialising over comfort.Garden Guest House HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %253 779; 441-445 MahabandoolaRd; r fan $5, air-con $6-12) The location stepsaway from Sule Paya is great (if rathernoisy), but we suspect that the boxlikerooms, which don’t have windows andneed a paint job, will have you spendingmost of your time in the communalareas.

Sunflower Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %240 014; www.myanmarsunflower-hotel.com; 259-263 Anawrahta Rd; r $6-22;a)Located in the heart of the busy Indianquarter. The cheapest rooms are littlemore than fan-cooled closets with sharedbathroom, while the corner suites are quitespacious and airy with great city views.Daddy’s Home HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %252 169; daddyhomehotel@gmail.com; 107 Kon Zay Dan St; r $12, with shared bathroom$6) A drab tower-block hotel with thelargest bathrooms in the budget category.The cleaners need to purchase a broom,but otherwise it’s friendly and adequate.Kon Zay Dan St is located between 26thSt and 27th St.OUTSIDE CITY CENTREThe suburbs are generally quieter thancentral Yangon. They’re also convenientfor walking to Shwedagon Paya and KandawgyiLake, but are not great for budgetaccommodation.Classique Inn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$(Map p 48 ; %525 557; www.classique-inn.com; 53BGolden Valley Rd; r $40-60; aiW) Located in avilla in Yangon’s posh Golden Valley neighbourhood,this leafy, family-run place offerseight cosy, attractive rooms. The rates aren’texactly a steal, particularly for the rathertight ground-floor single rooms, and you’llneed taxis to get around town, but warmservice (including travel arrangements),good breakfast and a homey atmospheremake up for this.Savoy Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 48 ; %526 289; www.savoy-myanmar.com;129 Dhama Zedi Rd; s $90, d $95, ste $125-135; aiWs) Everything inside the Savoy is done sowell it’s easy to forgive the fact that it’s situatedon a busy street corner. Hallways, roomsand even the lavish bathrooms are stockedwith photographs, antiques, handicrafts andsculptures, and it takes little imagination tofeel as if you are some Raj-like king. Basicallywhat you get at this Myanmar-German jointventure is Strand Hotel standards withoutthe price tag.Alamanda Inn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 48 ; %534 513; alamanda.inn@gmail.com;60B Shwe Taung Gyar Rd/Golden Valley Rd; r $60-65; ai) Yet another colonial-villa-turned-B&B in the quiet, leafy embassy district. TheFrench-run Alamanda hotel combines fivespacious and attractively decorated rooms,the most expensive of which is the suitein the old servants’ quarters with its ownprivate garden. The French-style breakfastgets good reports and there’s an excellent attachedFrench restaurant and bar (see p 62 ).Winner Inn BUDGET HOTEL $$(Map p 48 ; %535 205; www.winnerinnmyanmar.com; 42 Than Lwin Rd; r $20-30, ste $35; ai) Ifit weren’t for its somewhat remote location,the Winner would be one of our faves. Thislow-slung building is in a quiet, leafy suburband has spotless rooms with desks, andpictures on the walls. The communal areashave plenty of well-positioned chairs waitingfor you to collapse into with a book.Sedona Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL $$$(Map p 48 ; %666 900; www.sedonasmyanmar.com; 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; r $100-160, ste $350-900; aiWs) You know exactly what you’llbe getting at the Singapore-owned Sedona:peace, quiet and very professional service.What you won’t be getting is any indicationyou’re in Myanmar, but as you sink into oneof the comfortable beds, you probably won’tbe that bothered.Summit Parkview BUSINESS HOTEL $$$(Map p 48 ; %211 888; www.summityangon.com; 350Ahlone Rd; r $65-70, ste $95-100; ai Ws) Howmany hotels do you know of with breathtakingviews over one of the wonders of theuniverse? If a bargain-rated, orderly and civilisedroom overlooking the jewel-encrustedShwedagon Paya isn’t for you, feel free totake the same type of room overlooking thepool (open to nonguests for $5 per day).Guest Care Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 48 ; %511 118; www.guestcarehotel.com; 107Dhama Zedi Rd; r $20-22, ste $32; aiW) Thereare several classes of room here (with littlenoticeable difference between them), andit’s worth taking a look at a few before committing,as some are in much better nickthan others. For character you’ll find a fewbits of beautifully carved wooden furnituretossed about the place.Comfort Inn BUDGET HOTEL $$(Map p 48 ; %525 781; www.comfyland.biz; 4 ShweliRd; s/d $15/25;a) A family-run guesthouseon a side street close to the Bangladeshiembassy and within walking distance of theShwedagon Paya. The wood-panelled roomsare decent enough, but do little to set theimagination alight. The tens of caged birds,57YANGON SLEEPINGSLEEPING

58YANGONon the other hand, may inspire a variety ofthoughts and emotions.5EatingEating at a Burmese restaurant, with itsseemingly never- ending courses and sidedishes, is an experience in itself. And asYangon is the gateway to Myanmar for mostvisitors, it’s here that many travellers’ firstexperience Burmese cuisine. As such, besure to arm yourself with a bit of culinaryknowledge (p 328 ) before hitting the restaurants,street stalls and teahouses of Yangon.But it’s not all about Burmese eats; Yangonis the culinary capital of the country,and its culinary diversity is an unexpectedhighlight of a visit to the city. You’re likelyto encounter more than your fair share ofChinese (Burmese Chinese, actually) whileupcountry, so unless you’re a huge fan of thegenre, it’s probably worth investigating theother options.Myanmar people love their Shan food,and the cuisine is not difficult to find inYangon. Along Anawrahta Rd, west of SulePaya Rd towards the Sri Kali temple, area number of shops serving Indian food,much of it southern Indian in origin andMuslim-influenced. Much of the city’sWestern-style food is disappointing, butit’s probably the most authentic you’ll encounterin Myanmar, so it’s worth takingadvantage of.Eat early – by 10pm all but a couple ofplaces and a few large hotel restaurantswill be closed. Travellers keen to avoidgovernment-owned places (see p 21 ) shouldbypass the Karaweik Palace Restaurant,which is a remarkable-looking structure onKandawgyi.HAVE YOUR SAYFound a fantastic restaurant thatyou’re longing to share with the world?Disagree with our recommendations?Or just want to talk about your mostrecent trip?Whatever your reason, head tolonelyplanet.com, where you can posta review, ask or answer a question onthe Thorntree forum, comment on ablog, or share your photos and tips onGroups. Or you can simply spend timechatting with like-minded travell ers. Sogo on, have your say.CITY CENTRENilar Biryani & Cold Drink MUSLIM INDIAN $(Map p 46 ; 216 Anawrahta Rd; meals from K800;hall day) Giant cauldrons full of spices,broths and rice bubble away at the front ofthis bright and brash Indian joint. It’s neverless than packed, and with good reason: thebiryanis are probably among the best yourlips will meet. The chicken has been cookedso slowly and for so long that the meat justdrips off, the rice is out of this world andthe banana lassi is divine. Nothing on themenu costs more than K1800, and most is afraction of that. It’s far and away the best ofseveral similar nearby places.Danuphyu Daw Saw Yee MyanmaRestaurant BURMESE $(Map p 46 ; 175/177 29th St; meals from K2000;hlunch & dinner) Ask locals where to eatBurmese food in central Yangon and they’llmost likely point you in the direction of thislongstanding shophouse restaurant. There’sa brief English-language menu, but your bestbet is to have a look at the selection of curriesbehind the counter. All dishes are served inthe Burmese style with sides of soup du jour(the sour vegetable soup is particularly good)and ngapi ye, a pungent dip served with parboiledvegies and fresh herbs.999 Shan Noodle Shop SHAN $(Map p 42 ; 130/B 34th St; noodle dishes from K500;hbreakfast & lunch) A handful of tables arecrammed into this tiny, brightly colouredeatery behind City Hall, a short walk fromSule Paya. The menu includes noodles suchas Shàn k’auq swèh (thin rice noodles in aslightly spicy chicken broth) and myi shay(Mandalay-style noodle soup) and tasty nonnoodledishes such as Shan tofu (actuallymade from chickpea flour) and the deliciousShan yellow rice with tomato.Feel Myanmar Food BURMESE $$(Map p 46 ; 124 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha St; meals fromK3000; hlunch & dinner) This sophisticatedjungle-shack restaurant is reminiscent of anorth Myanmar house. It’s a superb placeto get your fingers dirty experimenting withthe huge range of tasty Burmese dishes,which are laid out in little trays that you canjust point to. It’s very popular at lunchtimewith local businesspeople and foreign embassystaff.New Delhi Restaurant INDIAN $(Map p 46 ; Anawrahta Rd; mains from K500; hallday) This grubby place serves tasty Muslim-

MA THANEGI: WRITER ON ALL THINGS MYANMARMyanmar cuisine does not use coconut, green chillies or sugar like in Thailand. It is neitheras delicate as the steamed dishes of China nor as fiercely hot as Sichuan cuisine. Itdoes not use as many aromatic spices as India.Best DishesThe salads we call athoke or let thoke, meaning a ‘mixture’ or ‘mixed with hand’. You mustalso try the pickled tea leaves, eaten in a salad with roasted or deep-fried nuts and beans,sesame, etc. The prepared tea-leaf pulp tastes like pesto, and can have lime or chilliesadded to it for different tastes.Best Noodle DishI love all, but my favourite is the Delta region noodle mohinga, thin rice noodles eatenwith a thick fish broth cooked with lots of lemongrass and slices of the inner bananastem for crunch. My favourite upcountry noodle is mondhi, the thick, soft rice noodleseaten with a curry of chicken strips, onion oil, roasted chickpea powder, sliced fried fishcakes and sliced raw onions.Best Yangon RestaurantsFor Burmese food, clean but not fancy, I like Feel Myanmar (p 58 ). For teahouses, LuckySeven (p 63 ) because it has a huge selection of snacks, one-dish meals and noodles.Best Eating TipIf you don’t like the oil in the curries, simply leave it in the bowl and don’t spoon it ontoyour plate, just take the meat or fish. This is what we do; not all Myanmar people go foroily food.59YANGON EATINGEATINGinfluenced South Indian dishes such as aninsanely rich mutton curry, as well as meatfreeoptions including puris (puffy breads),idli (rice ball in broth), various dosai andbanana-leaf thalis.365 Café INTERNATIONAL, JAPANESE $$(Map p 42 ; Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; mains K3300-7800; h24hr; aW) This stylish café, locatedon the ground floor of the Thamada Hotel,serves coffee drinks (K2200 to K3150) anda largely Japanese-influenced menu, witha few Western and Chinese dishes thrownin for good measure. Wi-fi is available at 15hours for K5000.Shwe Mei Tha Su MUSLIM BURMESE $(Map p 46 ; 173 29th St; meals from K2000; hlunch& dinner) Located next door to the more famousDanuphyu Daw Saw Yee, and lackinga roman-script sign, this is the Muslimversion of the traditional Myanmar curryhouse, where the sour soup is replaced witha hearty dhal, the meat-based curries arerich and spicy, and sides include pappadumand a smoky balachaung.Be Le CHINESE $$(Junior Duck; Map p 42 ; Pansodan St Jetty; dishesfrom K1200; hlunch & dinner) Virtually the onlyplace in town taking advantage of a riverfrontlocation, this former ferry terminalis one the best places in town to soak up aview and some breezes. The Chinese foodisn’t amazing, but it’s decent, and most gofor the roast duck.Ingyin New South IndiaFood Centre SOUTHERN INDIAN $(Map p 46 ; Anawrahta Rd; mains from K600; hallday) The cheery staff here do the crispiestand tastiest dosai in central Yangon. It’s agood place for a thali as well, and it has teaand Indian sweets if you require dessert.Aung Mingalar Shan NoodleRestaurant SHAN $(Map p 46 ; Bo Yar Nyunt St; mains from K1000;hbreakfast & lunch) Aung Mingalar is an excellentplace to indulge simultaneously inpeople-watching and noodle sipping. It’s asimple and fun restaurant with trendy citycaféovertones.

60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 46 ; 372 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; mains K2300-7800; hall day;a) This coffee shop is a bolddisplay of what could be if the city was everallowed out of its doldrums. It’s very mucha hang-out for expats and passing businesspeople,all of whom appreciate the expensiveshakes, juices, ice creams and sandwiches.Hong Lau Lau NORTHERN CHINESE $$(Map p 46 ; 416-418 Strand Rd; mains from K1800;hlunch & dinner; a) Allegedly where the Chineseembassy staff eat when feeling homesick,this unassuming joint serves northernChinese staples, from hand-pulled noodlesto freshly rolled dumplings, under the supervisionof a Chinese chef.Japan Japan JAPANESE $$(Map p 42 ; 239 Pansodan St; mains K2500-3000;hlunch & dinner; a) A kitschily decorated butstrangely cool Japanese restaurant (the signsays ‘Japan Style’), with Japanese staff wholike to make a fuss over you. The food ischeap, filling and mouthwatering with somesuperb sushi.Nam Kham Family ShanRestaurant SHAN $(Map p 42 ; 134 37th St; meals from K700; hall day)This tiny restaurant, located convenientlynear the centre of town, serves the usualShan noodle dishes plus a variety of pointand-choosecurries, soups, stir-fries andother dishes served over rice.Monsoon SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$$(Map p 42 ; %295 224; www.monsoonmyanmar.com;85-87 Thein Byu Rd; mains from K2200; hlunch &dinner; a) Located in an airy colonial townhouse, Monsoon is a good option for thoseintimidated by Yangon’s more authentic options.The menu also spans the rest of mainlandSoutheast Asia, with sections from Thailand,Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Upstairsis Loft, a good handicraft shop.Bharat Restaurant SOUTHERN INDIAN $(Map p 42 ; %281 519; 356 Mahabandoola Rd; mainsfrom K1000; hall day) Specialising in southernIndian dishes, Bharat’s tidy interior andmarble-topped tables make a nice changefrom the long cafeteria-style tables at theIndian places on Anawrahta Rd.Ichiban-Kan JAPANESE $$(Map p 42 ; 17-18 Aung San Stadium; noodle dishes $5-7; hlunch & dinner; a) An intimate and tastefulrestaurant, which seems to have been liftedstraight from the Tokyo backstreets of yesteryear.The food is as well presented and createdas the décor, and the small menu focuseson soup and noodle dishes.Ciao Pizzeria Italiana ITALIAN $$(Map p 42 ; 262 Pansodan St; pizzas K4000-7500;hlunch & dinner; a) Small and simple Italianrestaurant without any unnecessary fuss,and with passable imitations of Rome’s finest,including spaghetti with seafood anda decent selection of pizzas. The Myanmarchef has been trained by an Italian.Lotaya SHAN $(Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Market; mains K1000-3800; hlunch Tue-Sun) A shack-like place locatedat the back of Bogyoke Market servingShan noodles and Thai- and Chinese-styledishes, in addition to iced coffees and fruitdrinks. They’re not the best Shan noodlesin town, but it’s a good place to refuel whileshopping.Maw Shwe Li Restaurant SHAN $(Map p 46 ; 654 Strand Rd; mains from K1000;hlunch & dinner) The most recent incarnationof this popular restaurant is something ofa Shan-themed sports bar. Several screensbroadcast football while Shan-style snacks(spicy salads, deep-fried tofu) and draughtbeer entertain the mouth.OUTSIDE CITY CENTREoAung Thukha BURMESE $(Map p 48 ; Dhama Zedi Rd; meals from K2000; hallday) This longstanding institution just mightbe our favourite place in town for Myanmarfood. There’s heaps of choice, with everythingfrom rich, meaty curries to light, freshly madesalads, and the flavours are more subtle herethan elsewhere, emphasising herbs ratherthan oil and spice. And despite the fact thatit’s almost constantly busy, Aung Thuka managesto maintain gentle, friendly service and apalpable old-school atmosphere, making theexperience akin to eating at someone’s home.Minn Lane Rakhaing Monte & FreshSeafood RAKHAING BURMESE $$(Map p 38 ; cnr Parami Rd & Pyay Rd; mains fromK2000; hlunch & dinner) If you want spicy,skip Thai and head directly to this boisterousRakhaing-themed grilled seafood hall,popular with local families on a night out.The eponymous monte (actually moún-di)is a noodle soup featuring rice noodles andan intensely peppery broth. If you prefer thelatter on the side, order Rakhaing salad, aspicy noodle salad. And of course there’s all

YANGON’S STREET EATS61It doesn’t take long to see that much of life in Yangon takes place on the streets. Likewise,for the average Burmese, eating at a proper restaurant is an infrequent extravaganceand most eating is done at home or on the street.Yangon’s street-food options can be both overwhelming and challenging (pork offalon a skewer, anyone?), so as a guide in this jungle of meals, the below are some of ourfavourite street eats and the best places to eat them.» Samusa thoke During the day a line of vendors (Map p 42 ; Mahabandoola Garden St;K500) near Mahabandoola Park sell this ‘salad’ of sliced samosas served with a thinlentil gravy.» Fruit juice Several vendors at Bogyoke Aung San Market sell refreshing freshsqueezedjuice (Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Rd; from K1000; h10am-5pm) – don’t missthe creamy avocado, sweetened with condensed milk.» Bein moun & moun pyar thalet These delicious ‘Burmese pancakes’ (K200),served sweet (bein moun) or savoury (moun pyar thalet), can be found at most Yangoncorners at all times of the day and night.» Dosai At night along Anawratha St, several street-side vendors sell this thin southernIndian crepe (from K500), known in Burmese as to-shay.» Mohinga This soup of thin rice noodles and fish broth is available just about everywhere,but our favourite bowl is at Myaung Mya Daw Cho (Map p 42 ; 158 51st St; fromK500; h4.30-9am). There’s no English sign here; simply look for the green sign nearsome trees.» Grilled food Every night, the strip of 19th St between Mahabandoola and AnawrahtaRds hosts dozens of stalls and open-air restaurants serving delicious grilledsnacks (Map p 46 ; meals from K5000; h5-11pm) and draught beer.» Lassi Shwe Balee (no roman-script sign; Map p 46 ; Bo Sun Pat Rd; per glass from 600K;h10am-9pm) serves deliciously curdy glasses of this Indian yogurt drink.» Buthi kyaw Every evening a lone vendor (Map p 42 ; cnr Anawratha & Thein Byu Rds;K500; h4-9pm) sells this tasty snack of battered and deep-fried chunks of gourdserved with a spicy/sour dipping sauce.» Burmese sweets Every afternoon in front of FMI Centre a handful of street-sidevendors sell delicious Burmese sweets (Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Rd; from K50)ranging from shwe-t’aumi‘n (‘golden’ sticky rice) to mou’n-se‘in-ba‘un (a type ofsteamed cake topped with shredded coconut).YANGON EATINGEATINGmanner of grilled crab, oyster, shrimp, squidand shellfish, all for low prices.SK Hot Pot HOT POT $$$(Golden Happy Hot Pot; Map p 48 ; Ko Min Ko ChinRd; meals from K10,000; hdinner) This vast hallis Yangon’s most famous and most popularhot-pot joint. Join hundreds of other dinersin choosing the raw ingredients then cookingthem in vats of a spicy Sichuan-stylebroth. Not exactly cheap, but good, tasty fun.Dinner only.Le Planteur FRENCH $$$(Map p 48 ; %541 997; www.leplanteur.net; 22 KabaAye Pagoda Rd; mains $19-32, set lunch/dinner$25/79; hlunch & dinner; a) Widely consideredthe best restaurant in Yangon and withmeal prices to match its exalted reputation.If you can fit it into your budget, Le Planteur’sset dinner runs the gamut from foiegras to prime rib. If you can’t, then try theBusiness Lunch set, which runs at a third ofthe cost, or if you find yourself in Nyaungshwe,try Swiss chef Boris Granges’ otherventure, Viewpoint (p 182 ).Ashoka Indian Restaurant NORTHERN INDIAN $$(Map p 48 ; 28B Pho Sein Rd; mains from K2000;hlunch & dinner; a) The creamy curries ofnorth India are the main event here. Theportions are small, so it’s a good idea to considerone of the expansive set meals ($7 to$9), which also include vegetarian options.The colonial villa the restaurant is housed inis as gorgeous as the food.

62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIAN $$$(Map p38 ; %665 516; www.operayangon.com; 62DU Tun Nyein St; mains from $10; hlunch & dinner;a) One of the better and more elegantrestaurants in Yangon, L’Opera boasts welltrainedand smartly dressed waiters, butmore important is the Italian owner andchef’s meticulous preparation. The outdoorgarden seating is a bonus in good weather.The restaurant is located off Kaba Aye PagodaRd, at the northern end of Inya Lake.Alamanda Inn FRENCH $$(Map p 48 ; %534 513; 60B Shwe Taung Gyar Rd/Golden Valley Rd, Bahan; meals K7000-10,000;hlunch & dinner) In a quiet residential neighbourhood,this breezy open-air restaurantand bar under a covered patio is a relaxingplace to put the cares of Yangon behind you.The house speciality is tagines, but it alsodoes good steaks and sandwiches as well askiller cocktails, all reasonably priced.House of Memories BURMESE, INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 48 ; %525 195; 290 U Wi Za Ra Rd; hlunch &dinner) Housed in a mock Tudor colonial villastuffed with antiques and old photos (andincluding an office where General Aung Sanonce worked), this an interesting place todine on dishes such as a hearty beef curryand an authentically smoky-tasting grilledeggplant salad. Although it also boasts a‘piano bar’, the live music is sporadic – callahead to see when the next performance willbe. Located off U Wi Za Ra Rd.Green Elephant BURMESE $$$(Map p 48 ; www.greenelephant-restaurants.com;519A Thirimingalar St; mains K1500-18,000, set lunchK8000; hlunch & dinner) Popular with tourgroups, the Green Elephant is a safe but tastyenough introduction to Myanmar cuisine.The open-air wooden dining room boasts aromantic atmosphere and the restaurant alsoincludes an upmarket crafts shop.Hla Myanma Htamin Zain BURMESE $(Map p 48 ; 17 1st St; mains from K1500; hlunch & dinner)This longstanding place is a traditionalMyanmar-style restaurant, where a blastingTV fills in for interior design. This place,which doesn’t have a roman-script sign, issometimes called Shwe Ba because a famousactor of that name once had his house nearby.Inlay Amathaya SHAN $(Map p 38 ; cnr Kaba Aye Padoga Rd & Kanbe Rd;mains from K500; hlunch & dinner) There’sneither a roman-script sign or an Englishmenu. However, the menu does feature tinypictures to guide you through the basicsof Shan cuisine. Most head straight for thenoodle dishes, but this is a great place to tryShan rice dishes such as weq-thà jeh (ricesteamed with blood – much better than itsounds) or ngà t’avmìn hneiq, turmeric ricewith fish.Sabai @ DMZ THAI $$(Map p 48 ; 232 Dhama Zedi Rd; mains from K2500;a) This semi-formal Thai-owned placeboasts a Thai chef and an extensive and appetisingmenu. The range of salads is particularlyimpressive for someone craving alight lunch in the heat of the day.Singapore’s Kitchen SINGAPOREAN $$(Map p 48 ; 333 Ahlone Rd; mains from K2500; hallday; a) Located next door to Summit Parkviewhotel, the menu here has pages devoted tocheap and tasty Singapore hawker food (thinkHainanese chicken rice, rojak, mee goreng) aswell as Chinese-influenced seafood dishes.Thai Kitchen THAI $$(Map p 48 ; 126 Dhama Zedi Rd; mains from K2000;hall day; a) This place boasts a thick, illustratedmenu, with a variety of dishes giventhe stamp of approval by Thai tourists.Yin Fong Seafood Restaurant CHINESE $$$(Map p 48 ; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; dishes from K4500;hlunch & dinner; a) The setting, beside a busymain road, isn’t ideal, but the seafood sureis. This pricey restaurant has carved a wellfoundedreputation as one of the top Chineserestaurants in Yangon.Black Canyon Coffee INTERNATIONAL, THAI $$(Map p 48 ; Ahlone Rd; dishes from K2000; hlunch &dinner; aW) Located next door to the SummitParkview hotel, this is a swish little Thai restaurant,which also delves into fusion foods,eg spicy pasta. The noodles are decent, as arethe Wellington boot-shaped coffeecups.Coffee Circles INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 48 ; 107 Dhama Zedi Rd; mains from K3000;hall day; aW) Located in front of the GuestCare Hotel, this chic restaurant-café is theplace to go if you want to forget you’re inYangon. In addition to real coffee, it offers amenu that ranges from Thai to burgers, andhas fast wi-fi to boot.Café Dibar INTERNATIONAL, ITALIAN $$(Map p 48 ; Inya Rd; mains from K4000; hlunch &dinner; a) Like your corner Italian place backhome: not outstanding, but always reliable.

Specialising in pizza and pasta, but with afew other dishes (sandwiches, salads, burgers)thrown in.Royal Garden CHINESE $$(Map p 48 ; %546 923; Nat Mauk Rd, Bahan; mainsK7000; h6.30am-10.15pm) Kicking off withdim sum for breakfast and rolling throughto roasted duck for dinner this big lakesiderestaurant offers up a tasty and keenlypriced selection of Chinese goodies.YANGON’S CAFÉ CULTUREQuick EatsYangon is home to a handful of domesticfast-food chains and several Western-stylebakery-cafés. Most are open for lunch anddinner and have basic snacks and dishesthat start at about K500.For Burmese-style teahouses, see p 63 , andfor street food, see p 61 .Café Aroma CAFÉ $(Map p 42 ; Sule Paya Rd; a) The Starbucksof Yangon, this café has several outletsYangon’s numerous teahouses are not just places to have cups of milk tea and coffee ortiny pots of Chinese tea. They’re also places to grab a snack. They’re places to catch upwith a friend. They’re almost certainly a better place for breakfast than your guesthouse(see p 334 ), and they’re also where gossip is passed around, deals made and, if you believethe rumours, government spies are rampant.But back to the tea. Depending on the size of your sweet tooth and your caffeine tolerance,to order tea in Yangon you’ll need a short language lesson:» lǎp’eq·ye – black tea served sweet with a dollop of condensed milk» cho bawq – less sweet version of lǎp’eq·ye» kyauk padaung – very sweet; the phrase comes from a famous sugar-palm-growingregion near Bagan» cho kya’ – strongest tea, also served with condensed milk.63YANGON EATINGEATINGOnce you’ve mastered the lingo, it’s time pull up a tiny plastic stool and drink. The followingis our shortlist of teahouses in Yangon. All are open from approximately 6am to 4pm. A cupof tea should set you back about K250, and snacks and light meals start at about K400:Lucky Seven (Map p 42 ; 49th St) Located west of the centre of town, this is our all-aroundfavourite Yangon teahouse – tidy, lively and with excellent food. The mohinga here isoutstanding, as are most other Burmese-style noodle dishes.Shwe We Htun (Map p 42 ; 81 37th St) A buzzing old-school teahouse that serves betterqualityfood than most. There’s no roman-script sign, but you’ll know it by the crowds.Thone Pan Hla (Map p 46 ; 454 Mahabandoola Rd) This centrally located teahouse doesn’thave a roman-script sign, but it does have an English-language menu of teahouse staples,from shàn k’auk swèh to fried rice.Shwe Khaung Laung (Map p 46 ; cnr Bogyoke Aung San Rd & 31st St) In addition to goodtea, this Chinese-style teahouse serves decent steamed buns and noodles and bakedcakes and pastries. There’s no English sign, but it’s located right on the corner.Man Myo Taw Café (Map p 42 ; cnr Mahabandoola Rd & 39th St) Also representing theChinese end of the Yangon teahouse spectrum, this tidy place offers good steamed bunsand coffee.Golden Tea (Map p 46 ; Bo Sun Pat Rd) This centrally located Muslim-run teahouse is busyat breakfast, but we prefer to come later in the day when they serve tasty s’uanwi‘n-mauk‘in(semolina cakes).Seit Taing Kya (Map p 48 ; 53 Za Ga War St) A lauded hall-like place, this is very popular –probably because the tea here actually tastes of tea, unlike the sugar and condensedmilk of most teahouses.Yatha Teashop (Map p 42 ; 353 Mahabandoola Rd) A classic Muslim-style teahouse, providingfresh samosas and palata.

64YANGONaround the city. The Sule Paya Rd branchis the most central and offers fine, freshlybrewed coffee and fruit smoothies (fromabout K800).Parisian Cake & Café CAFÉ $Sule Paya Rd (Map p 42 ; Sule Paya Rd; a); MahabandoolaSt (Map p 46 ; 778 Mahabandoola St; a) Itcertainly ain’t as chic as a café in its namesakecity, but it’s cool and relaxing and hasan arm-length list of teas and coffees (fromK800), as well as cold juices and shakes, avariety of cakes and light pasta lunches.Mr Brown Café CAFÉ $(Map p 42 ; Mahabandoola Garden St; a) Anotherplace to get a break from the heat, sip acold drink and chow down on a cake.Tokyo Fried Chicken FAST FOOD $(Map p 46 ; Shwe Bontha St; mains K1500; a)TFC is Yangon’s own KFC.Self-CateringCity MartSUPERMARKETShwe Bontha St (Map p 46 ; Shwe Bontha St; h9am-9pm); Anawrahta Rd (Map p 42 ; cnr Anawrahta Rd &47th St; h9am-9pm) Can’t live without peanutbutter? These relatively well-stocked supermarketsnear the city centre have a prettygood selection of imported goods (includingtampons) and a pharmacy.Ruby MartSUPERMARKET(Map p 42 ; cnr Bogyoke Aung San Rd & PansodanSt; h9am-9pm) Centrally located, moderngrocery store with all the staples and thensome.Sharky’sDELIDhama Zedi Rd (Map p 48 ; 117 Dhama Zedi Rd;h9am-10pm); Inya Rd (Map p 48 ; 131 Inya Rd;h9am-10pm) The two nearly adjacent locationsof this modern deli have good selectionsof fresh and preserved Western-stylefoods and meals.6 Drinking & EntertainmentWe hope you had your fun in Bangkok, becausethings are quiet here… Most placesclose by 10pm and the main form of localnightlife is hanging out in beer gardens,teahouses or ‘cold drink’ shops.BarsYes, there is alcohol in Yangon, and justabout every neighbourhood has a grubbybeer-garden-type restaurant, but places thatfit the Western concept of a bar are few andfar between.Strand BarHOTEL BAR(Map p 42 ; Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd; hto 11pm;aW) Primarily an expat scene, this classicbar inside the Strand Hotel has any foreignliquors you may be craving behind its polishedwooden bar. Friday afternoon andearly evening is a two-for-one happy hour(there’s a standard happy hour all other daysfrom 5pm to 7pm).Mr Guitar CaféLIVE MUSIC(Map p 48 ; 22 Sayasan St; h6pm-midnight; a)Founded by famous Myanmar vocalist NayMyo Say, this café-bar features live folk musicfrom about 7pm to midnight nightly.Well-known local musicians drop by frequentlyto sit in with the regular housegroup. There’s food, and the clientele is amix of locals and expats.50th Street Bar & GrillBAR(Map p 42 ; 9-13 50th St; h11am-2.30pm & 5pm-lateMon-Fri, 10.30am-late Sat & Sun; aW) The teakand heavy leather furniture here inspirethoughts of an elite men’s club. It’s popularwith locals and expats on Wednesday nights,when it has $6 pizzas to soften the drinking.Inya 1RESTAURANT(Map p 48 ; 1 Inya Rd; hlunch & dinner; a) Thoughtechnically a restaurant, Inya 1’s invitinggarden and modern Balinese design thememake it one of the best choices in Yangon fora sophisticated sundowner.British Club BarBAR(Map p 42 ; off Gyo Byu St; h1st Fri evening of monthuntil midnight) Think ambassadors sit aroundat night discussing world peace? Think again!Once a month the ever-so-prim British Clubthrows open its doors and discussion movesfrom world peace to beer consumption. Expats(of all nationalities) rate this as the socialevent of the month. Bring your passport.Zero Zone Rock RestaurantBAR(Map p 46 ; 4th fl, 2 Theingyi Zei market) This rooftopbar is more fun than the unintentionally selfdeprecatingname suggests. Live karaoke-likemusic starts at 7pm, the draught beer is cheapand the cool breezes free.Sky BistroBAR(Map p 42 ; 20th fl, Sakura Tower, cnr Sule Paya Rd &Bogyoke Aung San Rd; h9am-10pm; a) Certainlynot the sexiest place in Yangon for a nightout, but the views from the 20th floor arepretty impressive and there’s a generoushappy hour from 4pm to 10pm. Bar snacksand other dishes are also available.

Captain’s BarHOTEL BAR(Map p 48 ; Savoy Hotel, 129 Dhama Zedi Rd; hto midnight;aW) This bar at the Savoy is popularwith locals and expats, especially on Wednesdayand Friday nights, when there’s live music.Ginki KidsBAR(Map p 48 ; Kan Baw Sa Rd; hto midnight) A cosy barpopular among expats and upper-class locals.ClubsLagging behind Yangon’s already thin barscene is its club scene. There are a few danceclubs, but they’re so full of local quirks thatthey’re more appropriate for anthropologicalinvestigation than a night on the town.JJ CityCLUB(Map p 48 ; Mingala Zei, Set Yone Rd (Mill Rd); h8pm-2am) Just your typical, bog-standard wetmarket by day, multi-storey entertainmentcomplex by night… Enter lifts stained withbetel spit to emerge at one of several floors offun: JJ is ostensibly a disco, but most appearto come for the bizarre 10pm fashion show,in which the ‘JJ Queen’ is chosen on a nightlybasis. Your entrance fee of K3000 gets you abeer. On the fifth floor of the same complexis Channel V, a slightly more downmarketdisco with lots of teenage boys and notenough air-conditioning. This place chargesa K4500 entry fee. Foreign patrons are rare,and so may be given VIP treatment.PioneerCLUB(Map p 48 ; Ahlone Rd; admission K6000; h7pm-3am) This disco sees a relative mix of people,from upper-class locals to profit-seeking‘dancing girls’. Like other clubs in Yangon,it’s similar to your first school dance: ahandful of girls actually hit the floor whilethe guys fidget nervously.YGN BarCLUB(Map p 48 ; Ahlone Rd; no cover; h7pm-3am) Thisplace can’t decide whether it’s a bar or a club.There’s no entrance fee, so you can do as thelocals do and sip a beer while staring at thehandful of girls who dare to dance. On Saturdaynights the place has a distinctly pink vibe.CinemasThere’s no better city for Myanmar cinephilesthan Yangon. By a conservative estimatethere are over 50 cinemas. Half a dozen ofthese cinemas (Map p 42 ) are found alongBogyoke Aung San Rd, east of the Sule Paya.Tickets start at about K600 per seat. Criticallyacclaimed films are in short supply; ratherthere is a succession of syrupy Myanmar dramas,Bollywood musicals and kung-fu smashups,plus a few Hollywood blockbusters.Nay Pyi Daw Cinema(Map p 42 ; Sule Paya Rd) This cinema acrossfrom Traders Hotel and next to CaféAroma has showings throughout the day.It’s one of the busiest cinemas in the city.CINEMAThamada CinemaCINEMA(Map p 42 ; 5 Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd) Easily thebest cinema for foreigners, Thamada iscomfortable and shows fairly recent international(including Hollywood) films.American CenterCULTURAL CENTRE(Map p 46 ; 14 Taw Win St) This US-sponsoredcentre shows free American movies at 1pmfrom Tuesday to Saturday.7 ShoppingWhile it isn’t quite the shoppers’ Meccathat Bangkok is, Yangon does offer a moremanageable alternative, as there are fewerand smaller outlets, and prices tend to becheaper all around.Arts & HandicraftsThere is quite a bit of interesting art, furnitureand antiques to be bought in Yangon.Unfortunately much of it is too large to fit inmost people’s luggage.Augustine’s Souvenir ShopANTIQUES(Map p 48 ; www.augustinesouvenir.com; 20 ThirimingalarSt; h11am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 2-7.30pm Sat &Sun) Walk through a garden of abandonedvintage cars into this handsome house, whichdoubles as one of Yangon’s most captivatingshopping destinations. A virtual museum ofMyanmar antiques, there’s a particular emphasison wooden items, including carvedfigures, chests and wall hangings. It’s a shortwalk from the Green Elephant Restaurant.Pansodan GalleryGALLERY(Map p 42 ; 1st fl, 286 Pansodan St; h10am-6pm)This loft-like gallery has a variety of Myanmarcontemporary and antique art, thelatter including some truly unique antiqueprints, advertisements and photos. OwnerartistAung Soe Min is knowledgeable aboutMyanmar art, and can point you in the rightdirection of that special souvenir you didn’teven know you needed.FXB ShopHANDICRAFTS(Map p 46 ; 106 20-B Yaw Min Gee St; h9am-6pm)The showroom of this international NGO,dedicated to fighting poverty and AIDS, has65YANGON SHOPPINGSHOPPING

66YANGONfabric-based products, including adorablesoft toys, cushions, rugs and other crafts.NandawunSOUVENIRS(Map p 48 ; cnr Baho Rd & Ahlone Rd; h9am-6pm)This house-bound shop spans two storeysand just about every Myanmar souvenir, fromlacquer vessels to replicas of antique scaleweights. The upstairs bookshop has a goodselection of titles on obscure Myanmar topics.Gallery Sixty FiveGALLERY(Map p 46 ; http;//gallerysixtyfive.webstarts.com; 65Yaw Min Gee St; h9am-8pm) Housed in a beautifulcolonial-era mansion, the ground floorof this private gallery is dedicated to revolvingexhibits of contemporary local art.LoftSOUVENIRS(Map p 42 ; 2nd fl, Monsoon, 85-87 Thein Byu Rd;h10am-10pm) Above Monsoon restaurant isthis craft shop selling high-quality productsfor prices that don’t send waves of shockthrough your body.J’s Irrawaddy DreamSOUVENIRS(Map p 42 ; 1st fl, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd;h10am-8pm) This shop features high-qualityMyanmar textiles, clothes, lacquer and otherhandicrafts. It’s an especially good place tofind stylish women’s dresses.Elephant HouseHANDICRAFTS(Map p 48 ; Green Elephant, 519A Thirimingalar Rd;h10am-9pm) Attached to Green Elephantrestaurant, this shop sells a decent selectionof Burmese housewares, primarily highqualityand attractive lacquerware.Beikthano GalleryGALLERY(Map p 48 ; 133/3 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; h10am-8pm) Suburban gallery featuring the work ofcontemporary Myanmar artists.BookshopsIt’s worth checking out the many bookstalls(Map p 42 ) around Bogyoke Aung San Marketor along 37th St, which is also regardedas something of a university library for thepeople. Several stalls have small selectionsof novels and nonfiction books in English,French and German.English-language newspapers such as theBangkok Post and the International HeraldTribune are sold by vendors in front ofZawgyi House (Map p 46 ; 372 Bogyoke Aung SanRd), and a small selection of magazines isalso available at Black Canyon Coffee (Mapp 48 ; Ahlone Rd) . In addition to the followingshops, Nandawun (Map p 48 ; cnr Baho Rd &Ahlone Rd; h9am-6pm) also has a good selectionof English-language books on Myanmar.Bagan Book HouseBOOKSHOP(Map p 42 ; %377 227; 100 37th St; h9am-5.30pm)This Yangon institution has the most completeselection of English-language books onMyanmar and Southeast Asia, and owner UHtay Aung really knows his stock: we askedfor a book on the Shan language and werehanded an original text from 1887! The frontgate pulled across the entrance doesn’t necessarilymean the place is closed unless thedoor inside the gate is closed too.Monument BooksBOOKSHOP(Map p 48 ; 150 Dhama Zedi Rd; h9am-8pm) Thenewest branch of this Southeast Asian chainis Yangon’s most modern and well-stockedbookshop. In addition to a good selectionof books on topics local and international,there’s an attached café-restaurant.Inwa BookshopBOOKSHOP(Map p 42 ; 301 Pansodan St; h9am-6pm) Thisbookshop sells a small selection of Englishlanguagebooks as well as back issues of foreignmagazines such as Newsweek and theEconomist.MallsThere are a number of modern Westernstyleshopping malls selling everything fromhipster jeans to flat-screen TVs. The largestand most convenient:Blazon Centre(Map p 48 ; 72 U Wi Za Ra Rd)Dagon Centre(Map p 48 ; 262-264 Pyay Rd)MALLMALLFMI Centre(Map p 46 ; 380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Just eastof Bogyoke Aung San Market.MALLLa Pyat Wun PlazaMALL(Map p 46 ; 37 Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd) Not farnorth of the train station.MarketsShopping at the zei ( markets, often speltzay) in central Yangon can be fun, educationaland a chance to interact with the locals.Fans of fresh markets should make apoint of visiting the hectic morning market(Map p 46 ; h6-10am) along 26th St, adjacent toTheingyi Zei. Another photogenic morningmarket (Map p 42 ; h5-9am) unfolds along thesouthernmost end of 42nd St, and a tiny butlively night market (Map p 42 ; cnr Anawrahta Rd

& 38th St; h5-9pm) is held every evening nearthe Methodist Telugu Church.Bogyoke Aung San MarketMARKET(Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Rd; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Half a day could easily be spent wanderingaround this 70-year-old sprawlingmarket (sometimes called by its old Britishname, Scott Market). Besides the fact that ithas over 2000 shops and the largest selectionof Myanmar handicrafts you’ll find underseveral roofs, the market is a fantastic opportunityto smile, laugh and haggle alongsidelocal shoppers. You’ll find a whole variety ofinteresting souvenirs, from lacquerware andShan shoulder bags to T-shirts and puppets.Pick up some nice slippers here, convenientfor all the on-and-off demanded by paya protocol.Gems and jewellery are also on hand.Shops worth seeking out include Yo Ya May(1st fl), specialising in hill tribe textiles, particularlythose from Chin State, and HeritageGallery (1st fl), which has a good selection ofreproduction and authentic antiques with anemphasis on lacquerware.Theingyi ZeiMARKET(Map p 46 ; Shwedagon Pagoda Rd) The biggestmarket in central Yangon, this is especiallygood for locals, who find Bogyoke Aung SanMarket a little too pricey. Most of the merchandiseis ordinary housewares and textiles,but the market is renowned for its large selectionof traditional herbs and medicines, whichcan be found on the ground floor of the easternmostbuilding. Traditional herbal shampoo,made by boiling the bark of the Tayawshrub with big black kin pun (acacia pods), issold in small plastic bags; this is the secret ofMyanmar women’s smooth, glossy hair.Mingala ZeiMARKET(Map p 48 ; cnr Ban Yar Da La St & Set Yone Rd) Alittle southeast of Kandawgyi, this marketproffers textiles, clothes, electrical appliances,plasticware, preserved and tinnedfoodstuffs, modern medicines, and even cosmeticsfrom China, Thailand and Singapore.Amazingly, at night a section of this markettransforms into a nightclub, JJ City (p 65 ).TailorsYangon isn’t a place you’d usually thinkof for tailor-made clothes, but prices areamong the lowest in Southeast Asia.Tip-Top TailorsTAILOR(Map p 42 ; cnr Mahabandoola Rd & 43rd St) Afriendly tailor shop, which is open ‘everyday,except some of the days when we are shut’.Some of the days when it is most likely to beshut are Fridays and Sundays.Globe TailoringTAILOR(Map p 46 ; 367 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Well regardedby local expats for women’s andmen’s tailoring.8InformationCultural Centres & LibrariesAt Shwedagon Paya (p 71 ), you can visit theLibrary & Archives of Buddhism, located in thewestern arch. There is no public library systemin the country.Alliance Française (Map p 48 ; %536 900;http://afrangoun.org; 340 Pyay Rd; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm& 2-6pm Sat) French culture, reading materialand various French-language evening courses.American Center (Map p 46 ; %223 140; 14Taw Win St; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noonThu) Behind the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Italso has a collection of books and magazines,including a good Burma section. American filmsare shown here Tuesday to Saturday at 1pm.British Council Library (Map p 42 ; %254 658;www.britishcouncil.org/burma; 78 Strand Rd;h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-1pmSun) A very modern and plush facility connectedto the British embassy. It has a small library ofEnglish-language magazines, books and videosand one of the most complete collections ofEnglish-language history books on Myanmar.EmergencyYour home embassy (see p 362 ) may be able toassist with advice during emergencies or seriousproblems. It’s a good idea to register with yourembassy upon arrival or, if possible, registeronline before you arrive, so that embassy staffwill know where to reach you in case of an emergencyat home.There isn’t always an English-speaking operatoron the following numbers; you may have toenlist the aid of a Burmese speaker.Ambulance (%192)Fire department (%191)Police (%199)Red Cross (%383 680)Internet AccessMost top-end hotels and many midrange onesoffer wi-fi access, as do a steadily growing numberof small hotels and cyber cafés (see boxedtext, p 68 ). Rates are by the hour – usually prorata if under an hour – and most of the centralcyber cafés (as well as many hotels) know how tooutwit the censors, meaning that you can normallylog onto pretty much any website. Server67YANGON 8 8 INFORMATION

68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely not as online as other Asian cities, but wi-fi is available at a handfulof hotels, restaurants and bars. In the hotel lobbies it’s generally free (or you’re at leastexpected to buy a drink or snack); otherwise it costs about $1 per hour. Although thehotel lobby connections are usually for guests, we had no problem ‘borrowing’ them for ashort time, particularly if just using a smart phone.A non-authoritative list of wi-fi hotspots in Yangon:» 365 Café (p 59 ; 15 hrK5000)» 50th St Bar & Grill (p 64 ) Free.» BAK Center (Map p 42 ) Free with purchase of instant coffee.» Black Canyon (p 62 ) Free.» Coffee Circles (p 62 ) Free.» Click Me Quick (p 68 ) Per hour K4000.» Kandawgyi Palace Hotel (Map p 48 ) Free.» May Shan Hotel (p 53 ) Per hour $1.» Panorama Hotel (p 53 ) Free.» Savoy Hotel (p 57 ) Free.» Sedona Hotel (p 57 ) Free.» Strand Hotel & Bar (p 52 ) Free.» Summit Parkview (p 57 ) Free.» Traders Hotel (Map p 42 ) Free with drink purchase.speeds have improved over the last couple ofyears, but still tend to be frustratingly slow incomparison to almost any other country.Internet shops can be found in just aboutevery corner of central Yangon these days, butif you’re in a hurry, make a beeline for one of thefollowing:Castle Internet & Café (2nd fl, 142-146 SulePaya Rd; per hr K400; h7am-11pm)Click Me Quick (97 38th St; per hr K400;h8am-11pm) This quiet and relatively fast internetcafé also provides wi-fi (per hour K4000).Hero Cyber Café (33rd St; per hr K300;h9am-10pm)Internet & Games (Bo Sun Pat Rd; per hrK400; h9am-10pm) Centrally located andrelatively fast, although it suffers from loudteenage boys playing online games.Net 2 Go (cnr Anawrahta Rd & 37th St; per hrK400; h9am-10pm)Virus III Cybercafe (283-302 Anawrahta Rd;per hr K400; h9am-11pm) Centrally locatedand, unlike most places, not filled with screamingteenagers playing online games. There are acouple of similar places in the area.LaundryAlmost all of Yangon’s budget and midrangeguesthouses and hotels offer inexpensive laundryservices including ironing for about K100per item. Rates at the top-end hotels are notcheap. Another option is Ava Laundry (Mapp 42 ; 305 Mahabandoola Rd, btwn 41st & 42ndSts; h8am-8pm). Though it’s no quicker thanthe guesthouses and is relatively expensive, theproprietor is a lovely chap to talk to.Medical ServicesThere are several private and public hospitalsin Yangon, but the fees, service and quality mayvary. There are also some useful pharmacies intown.AA Pharmacy (Map p 42 ; 142-146 Sule Paya Rd;h9am-10pm) Just north of Sule Paya.International SOS Clinic (%667 879; www.internationalsos.com; Inya Lake Hotel, 37 KabaAye Pagoda Rd; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,8.30am-12.30pm Sat) This is your best bet inYangon for emergencies. The clinic also claimsto be able to work with just about any internationalhealth insurance. Located at Inya LakeHotel (Map p 48 ).Pun Hlaing International Clinic (Map p 46 ;%243 010; 4th fl, FMI Centre, Bogyoke AungSan Rd; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat & 10am-7pm Sun)Located in the FMI Centre, this is your best betfor centrally located healthcare.MoneyIf you’re not aware of the various money-relatedissues involved in visiting Myanmar, you may bein for a big surprise. Be sure to pay close atten-

tion to our boxed text (below) and be sure to alsoread p 364 .In Yangon, you can pay for your taxi from theairport to the city in US dollars and there’s noreason to buy kyat in the terminal. Most hotelsand guesthouses sell kyat for rates slightly lowerthan the usual street rate. Bogyoke Aung SanMarket is the best place to change money; oddsare you’ll be approached if you wander downthe centre aisle. Before you go, ask around toestablish the going rate. You should not pay anycommission or tip for such services.At the time of research, there appeared tobe a near total freeze on credit cards, and noteven the Strand was accepting them. The onlyplace we found accepting and/or giving cashadvance on credit cards was the Parkroyal hotel,and this was only for Visa cards, with cash advancessusceptible to a 8% service charge anda maximum of $200 per day. Also forget abouttravellers cheques – they’re useless in Myanmar(see p364 ).PostDHL (Map p 46 ; %664 434; Parkroyal hotel, 33Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)Main post office (Map p 42 ; Strand Rd;h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri) A short stroll east ofthe Strand Hotel. Stamps are for sale on theground floor but go to the 1st floor to send mail.MONEY MATTERS» Do not change money at the airportor at banks – the official exchange rateis a fraction of the black market rate.Your best bet for changing money inYangon is Bogyoke Aung San Marketor your hotel.» US dollar bills must be the latestversion (multi-coloured bills from2006 or later) and in absolutelyperfect condition: no folds, stamps,stains, writing or tears.» Myanmar ATMs don't acceptinternational cards – take all the cash(ideally in US$) you’ll need.» Parkroyal hotel is the only hotel inYangon that accepts credit cards.Tourist InformationMyanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Map p 42 ;%374 281; 118 Mahabandoola Garden St;h8.30am-5pm) Once you wake them up fromtheir nap, the people at this government-runinformation centre are actually quite friendlyand helpful, although their resources are verylimited. This is the place to go to apply for permitsto the Delta region (Dalah, Twante) or – ifyou’re determined to do things yourself andhave the requisite four to six weeks – to requestpermission for a government-sanctioned tripto destinations such as Kayah State (p 198 ),Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) Region (p 110 ) or ChinState (p 287 ).Travel AgenciesMost visitors to Myanmar use private domestictravel agencies to book a tour, hire a car or booka domestic fl ight (air-ticket prices are usuallycheaper through a private travel agency). However,of the more than 100 enterprises in Yangoncalling themselves travel agencies, only a handfulcan be considered full-service, experiencedtour agencies, and they’re essential in arranginggovernment-sanctioned visits to more remoteplaces in Myanmar.Among the more reliable agencies:Asian Trails (Map p 46 ; %211 212; www.asiantrails.info; 73 Pyay Rd) This outfit canarrange specific-interest tours of Myanmar,including cycling and mountaineering, and canfacilitate visits to far northern Myanmar andother remote areas.Ayarwaddy Legend Travels & Tours (Map p 42 ;%252 007; www.ayarwaddylegend.com; 10737th St; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat& Sun) Professional agency that can provideadvice on visiting off-the-beaten track areas.Columbus Travels & Tours (Map p 42 ; %255123; www.travelmyanmar.com; 3rd fl, SakuraTower, cnr Bogyoke Aung San Rd & SulePaya Rd)Diethelm Travel (%662 898; www.diethelmtravel.com/myanmar; Inya Lake Hotel, 37Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) At Inya Lake Hotel (Mapp 48 ).Exotissimo Travel (Map p 42 ; %255 266;http://myanmar.exotissimo.com/travel/tours;3rd fl, Sakura Tower, cnr Bogyoke Aung San Rd& Sule Paya Rd)Good News Travels (Map p 46 ; %375 050,09-511 6256; www.myanmargoodnewstravel.com; 4th fl, FMI Centre, 380 Bogyoke AungSan Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) The owner,William Myatwunna, is extremely personableand knowledgeable, and can help arrangevisits to remote parts of Myanmar. Highlyrecommended.Myanmar Himalaya Trekking (Map p 48 ;%227 978; www.myanmar-explore.com; Room205, Summit Parkview hotel, 350 Ahlone Rd;h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)WebsitesLonely Planet (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/myanmar-burma/yangon-rangoon)69YANGON 8 8 INFORMATION

70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee p 371 for information on international airtravel, and p 372 for details on domestic airtravel to and from Yangon.BoatThere are several jetties along the Yangon River,but those interested in travelling by boat onlyneed to be familiar with two – all other departurepoints are for cargo or are for routes that don’tallow foreign passengers.The Pansodan St Jetty (Map p 42 ), located atthe foot of Pansodan St, near the Strand Hotel, isthe jumping-off base for daytime river-crossingboats to Dalah (round trip K2000, fi ve minutes),which leave roughly every 20 minutes fromthe early morning to the evening. Keep in mindthat, as Dalah is technically part of the DeltaRegion, you’ll need to apply for permission fromMyanmar Travels & Tours (p 69 ) to board thisboat. Pansodan St Jetty is also where you boardferries to Twante ($1, two hours), which departat 6.30am on Tuesday and 7am on Wednesdayand Saturday.Farther west along Strand Rd, Lan Thitjetty (Map p 46 ) is where IWT (Inland WaterTransport; Map p 46 ; %381 912, 380 764; LanThit jetty) run Chinese triple-decker ferries toPathein every day at 5pm (deck class/privatecabin $7/42, 17 hours). Foreigners must buytickets from the deputy division manager’s offi cenext to Building 63 on Lan Thit jetty.There are several privately owned companiesthat operate luxury cruises from Yangon toBagan and Mandalay (see p 376 ).BusThere are two major bus terminals that serviceYangon: Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal (Mapp38 ) and Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Terminal (offMap p 38 ).Most signs at the bus terminals are in Burmese;however, English-speaking touts anxiousto steer you in the right direction are in abundance.To avoid the hassle and attention makesure your taxi driver (both of the major terminalsare around 45 minutes from the city centre)knows where you want to go and, even better,the name of the specifi c bus company. Showingthe driver your ticket will do; if you don’t have aticket, ask a Burmese speaker to write the informationon a slip of paper.Both bus stations are located far outside town,but most companies have offi ces alongside AungSan Stadium; expect to pay a couple thousandkyat more than for tickets bought at the station.Many hotels can book tickets for you.Bus companies with offi ces at the Aung SanStadium:Maw (Map p 42 ; %393 384) Departures forBagan, Chaung Tha, Inle, Kalaw, Kyaiktiyo, Mandalay,Ngwe Saung, Pyay and Taunggyi.PTT Express (Map p 42 ; %252 212) Departuresfor Mawlamyine.Shwe (Map p 42 ; %249 672) Departures forBagan, Chaung Tha, Inle, Kalaw, Kyaiktiyo, Mandalay,Mawlamyine, Ngwe Saung and Taunggyi.Shwe Zin (Map p 42 ; %704 253). Departuresfor Bagan, Chaung Tha, Inle, Kalaw, Mandalay,Ngwe Saung and Taunggyi.Teht Lann Express (Map p 42 ; %255 557) Departuresfor Lashio, Mandalay and Pyin Oo Lwin.BUSES FROM AUNG MINGALARDESTINATION FARE (K) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE TYPEBagan18,000134pmair-conBago15002every 30min 6am-6pmair-conHpa-an86008-106.30-8pmair-conKalaw11,000124pmair-conKyaiktiyo/Kinpun (for 7000 5 7-10.30am air-conGolden Rock)Mandalay11,00012-157am & 5-7pmair-conMawlamyine 8600-10,000 8-10 6-8am air-conPyay40006every hr 7.30am-8pmair-conTaunggyi (for Inle Lake) 11,000- 15-175-7pmair-con18,000Thandwe (for NgapaliBeach)12,000 18 3-4pm air-con

TRAINS FROM YANGON71DESTINATIONFARE ($) ORDINARY/UPPER/SLEEPER DURATION (HR) DEPARTUREBago2/4/-35am, 5.30am, 6amKyaikto3-4/8-10/-4-52am, 6.30am, 7.15amMandalay11-15/30-35/33-4015½5am, 5.30am, 6am, 12.15pmMawlamyine5-7/14/-9-112am, 6.30am, 7.15amPyay5/13/-7-81pmTaungoo 5/13/- 6 5am, 5.30am, 6am, 8am, 11amThazi 9/24/- 12 5am, 5.30am, 6amAUNG MINGALAR BUS TERMINAL (HighwayBus station; Map p 38 ) Located about 3 milesnortheast of the airport as the crow fl ies, AungMingalar is the only offi cial bus terminal for all150 bus lines leaving for the northern part ofMyanmar, as well as for Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock),Mawlamyine and destinations to the south. Ataxi here costs $7.Keep in mind that journey times can differimmensely from the estimates we’ve given, anddepend on road conditions and the health ofyour bus.HLAING THAR YAR BUS TERMINAL This isthe bus terminal for travel to the Delta region(often called Ayeyarwady Division) and to destinationswest of Yangon. By taxi (K7000) theterminal is 45 minutes to an hour west of the citycentre on the other side of the Yangon River onHwy 5 (Yangon-Pathein Rd). More than 20 buslines operate out of here.From here you can catch buses to Chaung ThaBeach (K8000, six to eight hours, departure6am, air-con bus), Ngwe Saung Beach (K8000,fi ve to seven hours, departure 6am, air-con bus)and Pathein (K6000, four hours, departures5.30am to 2pm, non-air-con buses).CarMany people choose to forgo both public transportand package tours by hiring a guide and car.For some this combines the best of both worlds:relative comfort and safety, and fl exibility andpersonalised itineraries. Rates run approximately$60 per day within Yangon and $100 perday upcountry. Yangon-based Zayar (%09-5198486; zayar_gs@gmail.com) speaks Englishwell, knows every road in the country and is agood driver. Otherwise, a driver can be arrangedthrough a travel agent or hotel front desk.See p 378 for information on car rental.TrainYangon’s train station (Map p 42 ; %202 178;h6am-4pm) is located a short walk north ofSule Paya, although advance tickets must bepurchased at the adjacent Myanmar RailwaysBooking Office (Map p 42 ; Bogyoke Aung SanRd; h7am-3pm).See p 381 for more information on rail travelwithin Myanmar.8Getting AroundTo/From the AirportTaxi drivers will approach you before you exit theairport terminal. The standard fare for a ride fromthe airport to anywhere in the city is $7. It’s bestto have a few single bills so that you don’t have tochange money in the airport. From the city centreto the airport it can cost slightly less ($5).BusWith taxis in Yangon being such a fantastic deal,you’d really have to be pinching pennies to rely onbuses. They’re impossibly crowded, the conductorsrarely have change, the routes are confusingand there’s virtually no English, spoken or written.If you’re determined, there’s a useful poster(Map p 42 ) near Sule Paya that describes thevarious bus routes. The typical fare within centralYangon is K100 (use small bills – again, busconductors don’t tend to have change). Pricesoften double at night, but they’re still cheap andstill crowded.Some useful bus routes from the Sule Paya stop:S h w e d a g o n P a y a Bus 43 (43).Yangon Airport Bus 51 (51), 53 (53), 132(132), 136 (136), 231 (231) all go to 10th Milebus stop, from where it’s possible to transfer toa pick-up truck to the airport.Aung Mingalar Bus Station Bus 43 (43).TaxiYangon taxis are one of the best deals in Asia. Althoughthe meter and air-conditioning are neverturned on and you might see the street throughthe holes in the fl oor, most drivers speak at leastYANGON 8 8 GETTING AROUND

YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd72RAISING BUS FARESPrior to the summer of 2007 mostlocal bus fares used to be K5, but overnight,due to government fuel pricehikes, prices rose by 2000% to K100.The majority of Yangon workers, whoearn just K9000 a month, suddenlyfound themselves forking out K6000for transport to and from work. It wasanger over these price increases thateventually led to the huge Septemberprotests. Depending on fuel prices, thecost of bus tickets may also fluctuate inthe future.some English (although it’s advisable to havesomeone write out your destination in Burmese)and are almost universally honest and courteous.All licensed taxis have a visible taxi sign onthe roof. The less expensive licensed taxis arethe usually older, midsized Japanese cars, manymissing their door handles and other ‘extras’.Most drivers charge about K1000 for a shorthop, K1500 to K2000 to go from one part oftown to another, and K2500 or K3000 to goacross town. From downtown to either bus terminal,drivers ask for K7000 and the trip takesfrom 45 minutes to an hour. You can also hire ataxi for about K4000 an hour or about $25 fora half-day. For the entire day, you should expectto pay approximately $40 to $60, depending onthe quality of the vehicle and your negotiatingskills. Be sure to work out all details before youagree to a price and itinerary.For all types of taxi the asking fares usuallyleap by 30% or so after sunset and on weekends,when rationed petrol isn’t available. Late-nighttaxis – after 11pm or so – often cost double theday rate, mainly because the supply of taxis isconsiderably lower than in the day, so the driversare able to charge more.TrainYangon Circle Line loops out north from Yangonto Insein, Mingaladon and North Okkalapa townshipsand then back into the city. For more info,see p 50 .TrishawEvery Asian country seems to have its own interpretationof the bicycle trishaw. In Myanmar,trishaw passengers ride with the driver, butback-to-back (one facing forward, one backward).These contraptions are called saiq-ka (asin side-car) and to ride one across the city centrecosts about K500.© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdAround YangonDelta Region . . . . . . . . . 74Thanlyin & Kyauktan . . 74Twante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Pathein . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Chaung Tha Beach . . 80Ngwe Saung Beach . . .83Around Ngwe Saung . .85North of Yangon . . . . . . 85Taukkyan . . . . . . . . . . . .85Bago (Pegu) . . . . . . . . .86Best Temples» Shwethalyaung Buddha(p 86 )» Shwemawdaw Paya (p 87 )» Yele Paya (p 75 )» Shwemokhtaw Paya (p 76 )Best Places toStay» Emerald Sea Resort (p 83 )» Bay of Bengal Resort(p 83 )» Shwe Ya Min Guesthouse& Restaurant (p 80 )» Shwe Hin Tha Hotel (p 83 )» Bago Star Hotel (p 89 )Why Go?Like the spokes of a wheel jutting out from Yangon, you canfind fun and adventure if you head a short distance in justabout any direction.Immediately south of Yangon are the vast, squelchyswamps and river channels of the Delta region. Travel heremight be tough, but the rewards include starry nights onchugging river ferries and pagodas that float on water.West, across more rivers and past paddy field after gorgeousgreen paddy field, is sticky Pathein, home of goldenmonuments to love and a Buddha who sailed on a raft fromfar away Sri Lanka. Beyond that charming city are carefreeChaung Tha Beach and the refined sands of Ngwe Saung.And heading east out of Yangon it’s only a short hop toBago (Pegu), the former capital born of a chivalrous bird.Today Bago might look a little down at heel, but it has treasuresto make any monarch jealous.When to GoNot surprisingly, the weather in this region follows many ofthe same trends as Yangon: hot in the summer (March toMay) and relatively comfortable in the winter (November toJanuary), with an average high of 89°F (32°C). Rainy seasonrice planting (from approximately June to October) makesthe Delta region the greenest part of Myanmar.

AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA REGIONA vast, wobbly mat of greenery floating ona thousand rivers, lakes and tributaries, likea squishy waterbed, the Delta region southof Yangon is one of the most fertile anddazzlingly green regions of Myanmar. Allthis water irrigates millions of hectares offarmland, making the delta essentially oneof the rice bowls of the country. In addition,the estuarine environments along the coastprovide much of Myanmar’s saltwater andfreshwater fish harvest.TRAVELRESTRICTIONSAt the time of research, a permit wasstill required to visit those parts of theDelta region that were particularlydamaged in 2008 by Cyclone Nargis,namely Dalah and Twante.Thanlyin & Kyauktans®lY=' NH=¾' ekY;k'tn'"%056 / POP C5000One of the easiest escapes from the glamourand noise of Yangon is to the small, ruraltowns of Thanlyin and Kyauktan, just acrossthe river from Yangon. The official goals ofthe trip are a couple of interesting religioussites, but the true purpose is just getting intothe groove of rural Myanmar.During the late 16th and early 17th centuries,Thanlyin was the base for the notoriousPortuguese adventurer Filipe de Brito eNicote. Officially a trade representative forthe Rakhaing (Arakan), he actually ran hisown little kingdom from Thanlyin, sidingwith the Mon (when it suited him) in theirstruggle against the Bamar. In 1599 his privatearmy sacked Bago, but in 1613 the Bamarbesieged Thanlyin and de Brito received thepunishment reserved for those who defiledBuddhist shrines: death by impalement. Ittook him two days to die, due, it is said, tohis failure to take the recommended posturefor the stake to penetrate vital organs.Thanlyin continued as a major port andtrading centre until it was destroyed byBamar King Alaungpaya in 1756, after whichYangon took over this role. Today ThanlyinMawdinPointTo Gwa (37mi)Bay ofBengalPatDiamondIslandheinRiverMouth of theAyeyarwadyRiverPyamalaYakyiAyeyarwaRiver dyHinthadaAyeyarwadyAthokRiverThonzeApyaukMyitnaka RiverTwanteChannelRiverPyaponPyinbongyiOkkan YANGONREGION1Chaung ThaKyaungonnBeachHmawby TaukkyanNyaungdonChaung ThaPantanawNgwe Saung KankyidaungBeachEinmeElephantYangon ThanlyinCampPathein Ma-ubinWakemaDalahMyaungmyaTwante KyauktanAYEYARWADYREGIONMawlamyaing-gyunBogalayHpayaponLabutta2Toe RiverYangonRiverBagoRiverBagoGulf ofMottama(Martaban)MoeyungyiWetlands0 50 km0 30 milesAround Yangon Highlights1 Pretend you’re a localon holiday at family-friendlyChaung Tha Beach (p 80 )2 See a less-visited side ofMyanmar in Pathein (p 76 )3 Stroll the virtuallypeople-free sands of NgweSaung Beach (p83 )4 Cycle around ancientpagodas in Bago (p 86 )5 Boarding a crowdedlocal ferry for the day trip toTwante (p 76 )

is a low-key industrial town as well as thehome of a large Hindu community.1SightsThanlyin is a relaxing place, with shadedstreets and a busy market to stroll through,but there is little of the ancient city to beseen.A short bus ride out of town will take youto the Kyaik-khauk Paya (admission $1), ascaled-down Shwedagon with stupendousviews from its hilltop location. It’s said tocontain two Buddha hairs delivered to thesite by the great sage himself. Most likelythe first stupa on this hillock was erected bythe Mon 600 to 800 years ago. A Kyauktanboundbus can drop you off here, or if youwere dropped off at Thanlyin’s market, amotorcycle taxi will take you for K1000.Thanlyin was also the first place inMyanmar to receive Christian missionariesand the first place to have its own church.You can visit the remains of the Portuguesebuiltchurch, which was constructed in1750.Yele Paya (admission $2) at Kyauktan, 7.5miles southeast of Thanlyin, is a sparklingfloating temple adrift on a chocolate river.You can re-enact Jaws by feeding the massivecatfish splashing about at the templecomplex’s edge. To reach the islet, catch oneof the launch ferries (K5000 return) reservedfor foreigners from the riverbank. Also inthe town is a small pagoda perched on thetop of a hill beside the river and a hectic,flyblown and rather fishy market, whichreaches its climax in the morning.In the third week of January Thanlyin’sHindu community celebrates (or enduresdepending on your opinion) Thaipusam,the ritual of penitence in which devotees repentbad deeds by impaling themselves withhooks and nails and walking over hot coals.4Sleeping & EatingThere is no licence for foreigner accommodationin either town. For eats, Pwint(%21400; set meals K2000-6000; hlunch & dinner),a self-proclaimed ‘high-class’ Myanmarrestaurant, about a mile from Thanlyin’smarket, is allegedly the best in town (there’sno roman-script signage).If you’ve hired a driver, ask to refreshat Shwe Pu Zun (%553 062; 14A MinnandarRd, Dawbon Township; ice cream & drinks fromK650;a), a huge modern complex locatedbetween Yangon and Thanlyin specialisingin sweets; the faluda (‘fa-lu-da’ on themenu; a mixture of custard, ice cream andjelly) here is famous.Near the ferry landing in Kyauktan areseveral food vendors.8Getting There & AwayThe most convenient way to visit both Thanlyinand Kyauktan on the other side of the river is tohire a taxi in Yangon (K25,000 for a half-day).By taxi, it takes about 30 minutes to get toThanlyin.However, if you’re passionate about Myanmar’suncomfortable local transport or arecounting kyat, buses to Thanlyin (K200, onehour, 16 miles) leave frequently throughout theday from Sule Pagoda; look for lines 173 (173),189 (189) and 217 (217).In Thanlyin, motorcycle taxis can take youto Kyaik-khauk Paya (K1000) and Yele Paya(K3000).Twantetâ®et"%045 / POP C5000The small town of Twante was noted forits pottery, cotton-weaving and an old Monpaya complex. Much of the town was destroyedby Cyclone Nargis in May 2008, butin the years since, life has largely returnedto normal.The journey to Twante, by rickety ferry,is the best reason for coming. You’ll glidepast fishers in little wooden boats haulingin nets, larger cargo boats steaming towardsYangon and, on land, small villages wherekids spill out from thatched huts to play.1SightsShwesandaw PayaBUDDHIST STUPAer¯z®et;'.urC"(camera fee K200) Standing 250ft tall, the ShwesandawPaya is a Mon-built zedi (stupa), just aGETTING AROUNDTHE DELTA» Due to slow and infrequent publictransport in the Delta, this is one regionwhere you might consider hiring adriver (p 71 ).» If you’ve bought a deck ticket for theferry to Pathein (p 79 ), consider buyinga mat and/or a blanket.75DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTS TWANTE

AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few years younger than Yangon’s ShwedagonPaya, making it over 1000 years old. One cornerof the compound commemorates KingBayinnaung’s (also spelt Bayint Nyaung) defeatof a local rebellion.Near the southern entrance is a 100-yearoldsitting bronze buddha in Mandalaystyle. Instead of focusing on the floor, thebuddha’s eyes stare straight ahead. Alongthe western side of the zedi stand some oldbronze buddhas.Other SightsPottery is a major cottage industry inTwante, which supplies much of the Deltaregion with well-designed, utilitarian containersof varying shapes and sizes. The potswere made in huge thatched-roof sheds inthe Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds (aiu"fup'lup'=n'") inthe Oh-Bo district south of the canal, about15 minutes’ walk from the dock.8Getting There & AroundThe easiest way to hit up Twante from Yangon isvia a short cross-river ferry and a ride on a publicjeep or pick-up truck. Pedestrian ferries fromPansodan St jetty (near the foot of Pansodan Stand opposite the Strand Hotel) take passengersacross the Yangon River to Dalah (round tripK2000, fi ve minutes) – remember that you’llneed your letter of permission from MTT inYangon (see boxed text, p 74 ); the process involveswriting a letter stating that you don’t planto stay overnight and that you will ‘not engagein any way of any of matters of political natures’.There’s another brief form, to be copied in triplicate,and will need your passport. The entireprocess took us only about fi ve minutes anddoesn’t cost anything. You’ll need to hand overa copy of the permit when buying tickets for theriver crossing ferry at Pansodan St JettyArriving at the jetty in Dalah, a variety ofvehicles will compete to take you to Twante; aseat on a pick-up costs K2000 (45 minutes), amotorcycle taxi will take you there and back forK10,000 and a taxi for about K17,000.By far the most enjoyable way of getting toTwante is to take the slow ferry from Yangon. Fordetails on this trip, go to p 70 .The return ferry to Yangon leaves late in theevening, and since an overnight stay is not allowed,your best bet is to return to Dalah bypick-up or motorcycle.Technically, from the ferry dock to ShwesandawPaya a horse cart shouldn’t cost more thanK500, but in reality you’ll pay K1500 return withwaiting time.Patheinpusim'%042 / POP C200,000Pathein, Myanmar’s fourth city and the mostimportant delta port outside Yangon, lies inthe heart of a major rice-growing area thatproduces the finest in Myanmar, includingpawsanmwe t’ămìn (fragrant rice). Thegrowth of the delta trade, particularly riceexports, has contributed to a general airof prosperity in the city, which has a busy,buzzy atmosphere. Most travellers only stopoff on their way to the beaches, but the workshopsthat produce colourful, hand-paintedparasols, along with the shady, tree-lined villagelanes to the northeast of the market, areworth a little more than this token glance.Adding to the allure is the fact thatPathein can be reached by boat. The overnighttrip, where large boats are laid up onthe mud flats like dinosaurs taking their lastgasp of air, is a rare window on the patternand pace of the everyday lives of locals in theDelta region.HistoryThe town was the scene of major clashesduring the struggle for supremacy betweenthe Mon and the Bamar. Later it became animportant trade relay point for goods movingbetween India and Southeast Asia. Thecity’s name may derive from the Burmeseword for Muslim – Pathi – due to the heavypresence of Arab and Indian Muslim tradershere centuries ago. The colonial Brits – ormore likely their imported Indian civil servants– corrupted the name to Bassein.Today, Pathein’s population includes largecontingents of Kayin (Karen) and Rakhaing.Once part of a Mon kingdom, Patheinis now home to only a few Mon. During the1970s and ’80s, the Kayin villages surroundingPathein generated insurgent activity thathas since generally calmed.1Sights & ActivitiesThe following sights don’t charge an admissionfee.Shwemokhtaw PayaBUDDHIST STUPAerámue#;.ur;"Looming with grace over central Pathein isthe golden bell of the Shwemokhtaw Paya.This large complex is unusually well layeredin legend. One states that it was originallybuilt by India’s Buddhist King Ashoka in305 BC. Standing just 7.5ft tall, this original

Mingyi RdPathein0 500 m123A14›#13›#Inland WaterTransport Office # ðæ#æ#ClockMainTower#òJetty# îæ#3Shwemokhtaw Payaæ#Ú#City Hall10# ú›# 15æ#1 # ÿ87 # ÿ2# ÿ 5æ#6#ÿ# ú 9# ú 11# ñ12#þAPatheinPatheinStrand RdRiverBTo Ngwe Saung Beach(29mi); Chaung ThaBeach (35mi)Shwezigon PayaStBwetgyi StZegyaungStOhnmardandi StMerchant StShwezedi Rdæ Top SightsShwemokhtaw Paya............................B2æ Sights1 Central Market.....................................B22 New Market..........................................B23 Night Market ........................................B24 Twenty-Eight Paya .............................. C1ÿ Sleeping5 La Pyae Wun Hotel ..............................B26 Paradise Hotel .....................................B37 Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn.............................B28 Taan Taan Ta Guest House ................B2ú Eating9 Myo Restaurant ...................................B3New City Tea Centre ....................(see 5)10 Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant...................B211 Zone Pan ..............................................B3þ Shopping12 Parasol Workshops .............................B3ï Transport13 Buses to Chaung Tha Beach .............. C114 Buses to Ngwe Saung Beach.............. A115 Buses to Yangon..................................B2B‚Yadayagone StCMahabandoola RdC#e 0 0.2 milesDTo Settayaw Paya(700m); Shwe SarUmbrella Workshop(700m)# Ú 4‚#£stupa supposedly enshrined Buddha relicsand a 6in gold bar.Another legend says a Muslim princessnamed Onmadandi requested each of herthree Buddhist lovers build a stupa in herhonour. One of the lovers erected Shwemokhtaw,the others the less distinguishedTazaung and Thayaunggyaung Paya.Whichever story you choose to believe,Bagan’s King Alaungsithu is thought tohave erected a 46ft stupa called Htupayonover this site in AD 1115. Then, in 1263, KingSamodagossa took power, raised the stupato 132ft and changed the name to ShwemokhtawPaya, which means Stupa of theHalf-Foot Gold Bar.The hti (umbrella-like pinnacle) consistsof a topmost layer made from 14lb of solidgold, a middle tier of pure silver and a bottomtier of bronze; all three tiers are gildedand reportedly embedded with a total of 829diamond fragments, 843 rubies and 1588semiprecious stones.The southern shrine of the compoundhouses the Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi sittingbuddha image, which, the story goes, floatedto the delta coast on a raft sent from Sri Lankaduring ancient times. According to the legend,an unknown Sinhalese sculptor fashionedfour different buddha images using piecesD12377DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTS PATHEIN & & ACTIVITIES

AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from the original Bodhi tree mixed with cementcomposite. He then placed the imageson four wooden rafts and set the rafts adrifton the ocean. One landed in Dawei (Tavoy),another at Kyaikkami (Amherst), another atKyaiktiyo (this one is now at Kyaikpawlaw);and the fourth landed near Phondawpyi, afishing village about 60 miles south of Pathein,from where it was transferred to Pathein.A marble standing buddha positionedin a niche in the fence running along thewestern side of the stupa marks a spot whereMon warriors once prayed before going off tobattle. In the northwestern corner of the compoundis a shrine dedicated to Shin Upagot,the Bodhisattva who floats on the ocean andappears to those in trouble. Turtles swim inthe water surrounding the small pavilion.Also in this northwest corner is an unusualgolden Ganesh shrine, dedicated to theelephant-headed god worshipped by Hindusas the god of wisdom and wealth.Settayaw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEck'et;'r;.urC"Of the several lesser-known shrines inPathein, perhaps the most charming is SettayawPaya, dedicated to a mythical Buddhafootprint left by the Enlightened One duringhis legendary perambulations throughSoutheast Asia.The paya compound in the northeast oftown wraps over a couple of green hillocksthat are dotted with well-constructed tazaung(shrine buildings) – altogether a nicesetting and a change from the flat paya compoundsnear the river. The footprint symbolitself is an oblong, 3ft-long impression.Other Religious MonumentsThe Twenty-Eight Paya is a rectangularshrine containing 28 sitting and 28 standingbuddha images. None of them are particularlydistinguished except that the latter appearin the open-robe style rather than theclosed-robe pose that is typical of Mandalaystanding images.At one end of the hall stands a group ofcrude sculptures depicting a scene from theBuddha’s life in which he teaches a disciplethe relativity of physical beauty by comparinga monkey, the disciple’s wife and a deva(celestial being). You may have to ask thecaretaker to unlock the building.More interesting from an artistic perspectiveis Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw (TagaungPaya), south of town, which is centred on agraceful stupa that sweeps inward from awide, whitewashed base to a gleaming silversuperstructure.Look for the small squirrel sculpture extendingfrom the western side of the upperstupa, representing a previous life of theBuddha as a squirrel. One of the pavilionsat the base of the stupa contains a very largesitting buddha image.West of Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw, a littleway towards the river, stands MahabodhiMingala Zedi, patterned after the Mahabodhistupa in Bodhgaya, India. LeikyunynaungPaya, about a mile directly south of Mahabodhi,was renovated by the State Law & OrderRestoration Council (Slorc), now the StatePeace and Development Council (SPDC), inthe early 1990s to create a facsimile of AnandaPaya in Bagan. Few people outside the governmentworship here now, reportedly becauseforced labour was used in the renovation.These paya are located south of town offMerchant St, but can be somewhat hard tofind. Your best bet is to hire a trishaw driver,who will probably charge around K2000.MarketsAt the night market (Strand Rd) that is setup each evening in front of Customs House,teenagers cruise, flirt and hang out whilevendors purvey food, clothing and tools andjust about every other requisite for daily lifeat low prices. Just south of ShwemokhtawPaya is the central market (hMon-Sat), andjust south of that is a new market (hMon-Sat), with all manner of goods.zFestivals & EventsVesakhaThe people of Pathein celebrate the Buddha’sbirth, enlightenment and passingaway with a huge paya pwe (pagodafestival) during the full moon of Kason(April/May). The festival is held at theShwemokhtaw Paya.RELIGIOUS4SleepingThe sleeping options in this city are a sorrylot, no doubt because most people race righton through to the beaches. The hotels’ electricitysupplies are at the mercy of the citywiderationing schedule, which means poweris usually available from early evening toearly morning.Those wishing to avoid governmentownedproperties (see p 21 ) should steer clearof the Pathein Hotel, a two-storey buildingon spacious grounds near the bus station.

Taan Taan Ta Guest House HOTEL $(%22290; 7 Merchant St; r $6-10; a) This, thebest and most popular budget guesthousewith locals and foreigners alike, has tidy andcolourful rooms and friendly staff, but thesecret’s out and it fills up quickly. If you’renot on a shoestring, check out the doublerooms on the top floor, which feature airconditioning,TV and fridge.La Pyae Wun Hotel HOTEL $$(%24669; 30 Mingyi Rd; s/d $20/33; a) Thetown’s most prestigious address offers whitetiledrooms that are as polished as the staff.The huge bathrooms, rather bizarrely, onlyhave cold showers. Breakfast isn’t includedand loving couples will be delighted to hearthat it’s twin rooms only – so we’ll have noneof that hanky-panky, please!Paradise Hotel HOTEL $(%25055; 14 Zegyaung St; s/d $14/15; a) Tuckeddown a side street away from road noise,this place features unremarkable rooms ina large modern building. This wouldn’t betoo bad for Pathein, except for the fact that,on our visit, there were lots of people seeminglyjust hanging about, giving the place aslightly dodgy feel. Perhaps they’re associatedwith the attached karaoke lounge.Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn HOTEL $(%21654; 32 Shwezedi Rd; s/d with shared bathroom$5/8, r with bathroom $14-15; a) Certainlythe cheapest hotel in town, and it shows, particularlyin the cheapest rooms. Consider theslightly nicer double rooms with air-con, TVand fridge, but ask to see a few, as standardsvary. The owner claims that the hotel uses itsgenerator 24/7, so you may even get to usethe amenities you’re paying for.5EatingZone Pan BURMESE $(Bwetgyi St; meals from K1500; hall day) Thistypical Myanmar curry house features a goodrange of tasty curries, soups and salads. Tocut the grease of a Myanmar meal, try theirmouth-puckeringly tart shauk-thi dhouq(lemon salad). There’s no English sign here;instead look for the light blue shopfront.New City Tea Centre TEAHOUSE $(Mingyi Rd; snacks from K200; hbreakfast & lunch)Next to La Pyae Wun Hotel and perfect forreplacing the breakfasts that your hoteldoesn’t provide. This shady teahouse providesplates of nan and chickpeas and othersnacks and a morning caffeine kick.Myo Restaurant BURMESE $(5 Aung Yadana St; mains from K1000; hlunch &dinner) A bustling, retro bar and restaurantthat extends a loving welcome to all-comers.The meals, which focus on all your favouriteBamar staples, are done with more stylethan most places and, to keep you entertainedwhile you wait for your supper, thereis a TV playing all the premiership matches,and draught beer to boot.Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant BURMESE $(24/25 Shwezedi Rd; meals from K1500; hlunch &dinner) Oh you lucky, lucky taste buds, finallyyou’re going to get something different,including goat curry and sardine salad! Ahandy place for lunch before hopping on abus out of here.7 ShoppingMost of the ‘umbrellas’ made in Pathein areactually parasols; that is, they aren’t waterproof,but are used to counter the hot Deltasun. There are a few workshops scatteredthroughout the northern part of the city,particularly in the vicinity of Twenty-EightPaya, off Mahabandoola Rd, and at thesouthern end of Merchant St.The parasols come in a variety of brightand bold primary colours. One type that canbe used in the rain is the saffron-colouredmonks’ umbrella, which is waterproofed byapplying various coats of tree resin; a singleumbrella may take five days to complete,including the drying process. Parasols andumbrellas can be ordered in any size directlyfrom the workshops, and are cheap.Workshops welcome visitors who want toobserve this craft, which is a lot more interestingthan it might sound.Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop PARASOLS(%25127; 653 Tawya Kyaung Rd; h8am-5pm) Thisfamily-run affair with high-quality work isjust around the corner from the SettayawPaya.8InformationDespite the city being one of Myanmar’s largest,there are no banks here offering foreign exchange.Internet is available at Lynn Internet Café(Shwezigon Paya St; per hr K400; h9am-11pm).8Getting There & AroundBoatFor boats from Yangon, see p 70 .To Yangon, boats leave daily at 5.30pm, arrivingin Yangon the next day at noon. Tickets cost $779DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON EATING EATING PATHEIN

80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor deck class and $42 for cabin class (althoughwe’ve yet to encounter the cabin), and are availablein the morning at the Inland Water TransportOffice (Mahabandoola Rd; h10am-noon),located in a wooden colonial-era building near thejetty, or from 3pm onward at the jetty itself.BusFor buses from Yangon, see p 71 .Inconveniently, the bus stations for various destinationsare spread throughout central Pathein.This is confusing, but probably easier than havingto schlep all the way to the town’s bus station,located well outside the city centre.If you’re bound for Yangon (K6000, fourhours), head to the informal bus company offices(Shwezedi Rd) located directly east ofShwe Zin Yaw Restaurant. There are departuresat 3.30am, 5.30am, 6.30am and 1.30pm; arriveearly and a shuttle truck will transport you to thestation and your bus. The 6.30am departure isthe only air-con one.Insanely uncomfortable minibuses ply theroute from Pathein to Chaung Tha Beach(K2500, 2½ hours, 36 miles) at 7am, 11am, 1pmand 3pm, departing from an informal bus station(Yadayagone St) a couple of blocks northeastof the clock tower.To Ngwe Saung Beach (K4000, two hours, 29miles), buses leave from yet another bus station(Strand Rd) at 9am, 11am and 3pm.TaxiShare taxis for up to four people can be arrangedfrom your hotel in Pathein for Chaung Tha(K50,000), Ngwe Saung (K40,000) and Yangon(K100,000).Chaung Tha BeachexY;='"s;km'"e¨x%042 / POP C2000Chaung Tha Beach, 25 miles west of Pathein,is a place of holiday excess for the Myanmarmiddle class. There’s paddling in the water,floating about on rubber rings, ploddingup and down on ponies, wasting money ontacky souvenirs, boisterous beach footballgames and happy family picnics. As withother beaches of this type in Southeast Asia,it’s not the most awe-inspiring piece of coastlineyou’ll ever encounter, but if you need tosqueeze some sand and sun into your visit toMyanmar, it is the most convenient option.1Sights & ActivitiesThe village market is most active from 6amto 9am. East of the main village area is amangrove wetland and a canal beach with awooden jetty. It isn’t hard to persuade a fisherpersonto take you up the river and aroundthe mangroves for a few thousand kyat.Boating TripsA modest coral reef lies a short way offshorewith decent snorkelling possible both hereand around the headland at the beach’snorthern end. During the rainy season thewater clarity is terrible.The best snorkelling, though, is abouta two-hour boat ride away. Boats, whichshould be arranged through your hotel,cost K50,000 per hour for six people. If youhaven’t got your own gear some of the hotelsmight conjure up a tatty snorkel and maskfor your use – ask at Myanmar Travel Beachor the Shwe Hin Tha Hotel.The appropriately named Whitesand Island,which is visible a short way offshore,can be explored in a day trip from ChaungTha Beach. Boats (K3000 one way, 15 minutes)leave from the jetty at the south end ofthe village every hour or so from 8am (lastone back leaves at 5pm). There’s good swimmingand snorkelling around the island, butvery little shade. Bring plenty of water and,finally, don’t attempt to swim over – it’s a verylong way and around the halfway point theJaws theme tune gets lodged in your head!Other ActivitiesYou can rent canoes for about K10,000 a day,or bicycles for about K2000 a day, at hotelsand guesthouses.4SleepingOf all the beach destinations in Myanmar,Chaung Tha offers the most affordable accommodation.Yet at research time, thebeach was experiencing something of a miniboom and there will undoubtedly be evenmore top-end places by the time you readthis. Those keen to avoid places with closelinks to the military should avoid the HotelMax (see p 21 ).All but a few hotels close down from 15May to 15 September; those that remainopen discount room rates. Most places, includingeven the most expensive resorts,have electricity only from 1pm to 3pm and6pm to midnight or morning.If none of the budget places recommendedhere are available, there are several similarlypriced off-beach guesthouses south ofthe bus station, along the way to the pier.All hotels are located along Main Rd.

MR GEORGE: LOCAL GUIDEI’m from Pathein, but I’ve lived at Chaung Tha Beach for 15 years. I’ve worked in tourismsince 1996, and in 2000, I got a wife from here.Best BeachMost Europeans like Ngwe Saung Beach (p 83 ) because it’s a long beach and it’s quiet, withfewer people. But there is no village there, only huge resorts. If you like nature, Chaung ThaBeach is better, but the beach is small and doesn’t have white sand or clear water.Best Time to VisitNovember to April is the best time because the region has a lot of seafood and goodweather. After April the monsoon comes and the water isn’t so clear because the rainwaterand river water mix. At Ngwe Saung Beach many hotels are closed during the rainy season,but the hotels at Chaung Tha Beach are open all year.Secret SpotAbout 9 miles from Chaung Tha Beach is a place called Chauk Maung Na Ma (p 82 ). It’svery similar to Ngwe Saung: it’s quiet, and you can snorkel, fish and meet local people.It’s also a good place for a picnic.Shwe Ya Min Guesthouse &Restaurant HOTEL $(%42127; s/d $5/10; a) Although locatedon the opposite side of the road from thebeach, the bright rooms here are scrubbedclean, neatly tiled and come with desk, softbed (bring your own mosquito net) and abathroom with highly original washbasins.The attached restaurant serves a justifiablywell-regarded pancake breakfast, andgracious, friendly service rounds out thepackage.Belle Resort RESORT $$$(%42112; www.belleresort.com; r $55-180; as)The rooms are understated sophisticationwith stone walls, sprawling beds, massivewindows with equally massive ocean viewsand satellite TV. Enter the bathrooms,made of stylish black stone, and things geteven better. And best of all, they claim toprovide more electricity than other places,giving you the chance to take advantageof the electronic amenities offered at thisprice tag.Grand Hotel HOTEL $$(%42329; r $30-35; a) The cute whitewashedbungalows here aren’t the newest or flashiestaccommodation along the beach, butrepresent good value. Along with an atmosphereof yesteryear, the spacious roomshave tall windows, TV, fridge and a hugebathroom with big old-school tubs.Golden Beach Hotel RESORT $$(%42128; r $25-40; as) This vast resort (56rooms) doesn’t have the park-like manicuredgrounds that others do, but the hotelroom-styleduplex bungalows have recentlybeen renovated. There is a well-used pooltable and a little-used pool. The stretch ofsand out the front is especially popular withmiddle-class Myanmar tourists.Shwe Hin Tha Hotel HOTEL $$(%42118; r $7-12, bungalows $20-25; ai) Locatednear the bus drop-off point and boastingbudget prices, this is Chaung Tha’s mostpopular backpacker choice. The rooms andbungalows are unremarkable, but it’s locatedat the quiet northern end of the beachand has intermittent internet and a touristinformation centre (p 82 ), where equipmentcan be rented and tours organised.Diamond Hotel HOTEL $$$(%13109; d/tr $50/65; a) The bungalowbasedrooms here are large enough, butleave you rather close to your neighbour.Rooms come with amenities such as TV andfridge but, other than the rainbow-colouredbalustrade on the balconies, not a whole lotof character.Dream Light Guest House HOTEL $(%42201; bungalows $8-35; a) All in all thelarge and airy bungalows here have seenbetter times, but they are just a sandy stepfrom the tranquil northern part of the81DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SLEEPINGCHAUNG THA BEACH

82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTINATION FARE (K) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE TYPEYangon 700010,0006-7 6am10.30amPathein 3800 2½ 7am, 9am,11am, 1pmbusair-con busminibusAROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONbeach. Communicating in English can be aproblem here, as the ‘Check out time 11.00noon’ sign at the reception suggests.Hotel Ayeyarwady HOTEL $(%42332; s/d/tr $12/15/20; a) Located acrossthe road from the beach just south of themarket intersection, this is a 1960s-style‘motel’ complex in bright aquamarine withsimple but tidy rooms.Dream Light HOTEL $(%42201; s/d $5/10; a) If you don’t need aroom right on the beach, this pastel-huedcastle-like complex near the market intersectionis an adequate, although slightlymusty budget choice.Shwe Chaung Tha Hotel GUESTHOUSE $(%42249; s/d $5/8) The rooms in this largewooden house across from the beach arerather run down, but are clean and certainlycheap.5EatingUnlike at nearby Ngwe Saung, there aren’tmany independent restaurants here, so planon eating most of your meals at your resort.A standout during our visit was ShweYa Min Restaurant (mains K1500-2000; hallday), where the service is charming (wewere ceremoniously presented our bottle ofMyanmar Beer for approval) and more thana bit of care goes into the food. The menu atthis attractive guesthouse-based restaurantis largely seafood-based and includes all theMyanmar and Chinese-Burmese staples.And even if you’re not staying here, you’d bewell advised to consider the restaurant’s famousbreakfast, which features thick, sweetMyanmar-style pancakes.8InformationIn addition to being the only hotel with internet,Shwe Hin Tha Hotel is also home to Chaung Tha’sunoffi cial information centre, Myanmar TravelBeach (%09 520 0617; www.myanmartravelbeach.weebly.com). The go-to man for all thingslocal is Mr George, who can arrange snorkellingtrips, day trips to Ngwe Saung or Chauk MaungNa Ma, a nearby white-sand beach, as well astransport etc.8Getting There & AroundThe rough 25-mile road between Chaung Thaand Pathein can be traversed in two hours byprivate car; buses and minibuses usually takeabout 2½ hours. The route passes through junglehills – well, OK, ex-jungle – it’s a depressingexample of the effects of deforestation. Over halfthe villages passed along the way are Kayin.BusFor buses from Yangon, see p 71 .It’s theoretically possible to travel north viathe town of Gwa all the way to Ngapali withoutfi rst having to go through Yangon and Pyay. It’san exciting, beautiful but very demanding twodayjourney on very local minibuses.Motorbike & BoatMotorbike taxis can be hired to take you to Pathein(K10,000) or directly to Ngwe Saung Beach. Infact, the trip to the latter is a real highlight of abeach holiday. The route, which takes about twohours, is through wild and glorious country andinvolves three river crossings on small woodencountry boats that have just enough room for themotorbike and a couple of passengers. You willpass serene beaches, several untouched villagesand heavy forests and whiz over tracks and trailsbetween shocking-green rice paddies. It costs atleast K15,000 per person. Ask your hotel a fewhours in advance to organise it.If it’s calm you can also hire a boat (seats six;K65,000, two hours) to and from Ngwe Saung.This is handy if you’re in a group but be preparedto wade ashore with your bags and ask to bedropped as close to your hotel as possible. Bringplenty of water and sunblock. Again organisethis through your hotel or Myanmar Travel Beacha few hours in advance.TaxiShare taxis for up to four people to Pathein(K50,000) and Yangon (K150,000) can bearranged with your hotel’s assistance.

Ngwe Saung Beache=âez;='km'"e¨x%042 / POP C2000Forgive us for thinking that Ngwe SaungBeach may have begun to show symptoms ofbipolar disorder. These days the northern endof the beach has the air of a weekend getawaydestination for nouveau riche Yangonites,and is home to an uninterrupted chain ofwalled, upscale resorts. At the southern enda palpable abandoned aura – not unlike thatof Kep in Cambodia – pervades, and this iswhere you’ll find foreign backpackers andbudget bungalows. The factor linking thesetwo disparate places is an attractive 13-milestring of sand and palms that, although itwon’t rate as one of the region’s best beaches,has finer sand and clearer and deeper waterthan nearby Chaung Tha Beach.1Sights & ActivitiesAbove all else Ngwe Saung is an indulgent, lieback-and-do-absolutely-nothingsort of beachand most visitors are happy to comply. However,if sitting around doing nothing morestrenuous than wiggling your toes in the sandsounds boring then there are a few calorieburningactivities you can take part in.A boat trip out to Bird Island, just visibleway out on the horizon, for a day of snorkellingand, dare we say it, bird-watching, is themost popular water-based excursion. Boatscan be arranged through many hotels forbetween $65 and $85, depending on the sizeof your group and the boat it will require.If you don’t have the stomach or budgetfor a boat trip, at low tide you can simplywalk over to Lovers’ Island, a handsomestrip of sand located at the southern end ofthe beach. The water surrounding this islandis also a good place to snorkel amongdancing clouds of tropical fish. Masks andsnorkels can be hired from some hotels(Shwe Hin Tha Hotel and Treasure Resortare the most reliable) for K2500 per day.Several of the resorts can arrange daytrips to an elephant camp (p85) halfwaybetween Ngwe Saung and Pathein.4SleepingIn the last few years Ngwe Saung has gentrifiedsignificantly and an uninterrupted chainof resorts now backs the northern end of thebeach. Many of these are aimed at the upperprice range and some, like the AureumPalace Resort, Myanmar Treasure Resort andMyanmar Treasure II, are owned by thosewith close government links (see p 21 ).Making it even more difficult for budgettravellers is that many of the cheap placeshave folded in recent years and the few thatremain are at the far southern end of thebeach. Getting between these hotels and thevillage is a pain, but enough trishaws drifton past to allow some means of escape.Electricity is a rare commodity at NgweSaung, even if you are paying hundreds ofdollars a night, and is generally availableonly from 1pm to 3pm and 6pm to midnight.Shwe Hin Tha Hotel HOTEL $$(%40340; bungalows $15-35; a) Set at the blissfulsouthern end of the beach, this place isalmost within paddling distance of Lovers’Island. It has a magnetic pull for backpackerswho agonise over whether to opt for cheapand-simplebamboo huts or one of the moresolid and luxurious bungalows. Either waythey can be sure that it will be clean and wellmaintained and that hot water will appearon request. There’s a book exchange, varioustravel services and plenty of like-minded clienteleto waste away the days with. It’s thesister hotel of the one in Chaung Tha butcomes with much higher recommendations.Emerald Sea Resort RESORT $$$(%40247, in Yangon 01-520 0890; www.emeraldseahotel.com; r $45, bungalows $55-75; as) Locatedsouth of the village, this cosy resortmay not be as flashy as the newer placesalong the beach, but it makes up for it withheaps of atmosphere and excellent service.The rooms themselves are beautifully createdwith minimal decor making the virginwhite,and very comfortable, interiors all themore classy. There’s a decent restaurant (advancenotice is often required) and a beautifulstretch of beach out front, but it’s the staffthat really make this place as good as it is.Bay of Bengal Resort RESORT $$$(%40304; www.bayofbengalresort.com; r $85-95, ste $115-135; ais) Quite possibly theposhest beach resort in Myanmar, this immensenew compound at the far northernend of Ngwe Saung feels something like atimeshare condo community in Florida.The ground-floor Bengal Suites have a spacioussitting area and huge balcony, andbathrooms with a stone tub and an open-airshower. Reasons to leave your room includetennis courts, a huge pool and a spa. It’s alsoone of the only places in the area to offerinternet, at a whopping $4 per hour.83DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTS NGWE & SAUNG & ACTIVITIES BEACH

84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver Coast Beach Hotel RESORT $$(%40324, in Yangon 01-254 708; htoo.maw@mptmail.net.mm; r $38; a) About as far down thebeach from the village as you can get, thissecluded resort is a bargain hunter’s fantasy,featuring delightful beachside bungalowswith finesse and character. There’s plenty ofspace, lots of light and hardly a soul aroundto disturb the peace of your own slab ofpalm-bedecked perfection.Sunny Paradise Resort HOTEL $$$(%40227; www.sunnyparadiseresort.com; r $15-160, bungalows $130-180, ste $170-180; ais)Yet another imposing compound north ofthe village, Sunny Paradise has attractivewooden bungalows offering the accommodationand amenities you’d expect at thisprice range. A pleasant surprise, for thoseon a budget at least, is the associated SunnyVilla, located just across the street, wheresimilar rooms, also decked out with TV,fridge and air-conditioning, are available fora fraction of the price.Yamonnar Oo Resort HOTEL $$(%40338, in Yangon 01-530 722; kbzinfo@bzbank.com.mm; r $37-45, bungalows $38-70) Down atthe southern end of the beach this modernhotel offers good value for money. Therooms and bungalows were being extensivelyrenovated and refurbished at researchtime, making them an even better deal. Thelandscaped gardens are another highlight.Silver View Resort HOTEL $$(%40317, in Yangon 01-502 681; silverviewresort@gmail.com; r $30-50) Also located south of thevillage and popular with vacationing locals,this attractive compound offers green,condo-like, duplex bungalows, most offeringsea views. Packages with transportationfrom Yangon are available.5EatingYou should try your hardest to break out ofyour hotel restaurant at least once in orderto eat in the village, where there is a goodrange of cheap restaurants. There is little todistinguish one from another – most placesshare a facsimile menu that focuses onseafood-based dishes prepared in the Chinesestyle. They’re open for breakfast, lunchand dinner.Ngwe Hline SiRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(mains K3500) Maybe the pick of the bunchin the village, the Ngwe Hline Si has allthe usual seafood and mixes it up withpastas and a variety of tasty starters.Golden MyanmarRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K1000) When asked for a goodplace to eat, most locals will point you inthe direction of this seafood shack, locatedin the middle of the village.Kaung Kaung Lay CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K1500) This restaurant has thesame facsimile menu as the others, butdoes Burmese dishes, including a goodchicken curry, quite well. Located in thecentre of the village.Happy Restaurant TEAHOUSE $(dishes from K400) If you didn’t fork out fora hotel breakfast, or simply want somethinglocal, head to this buzzing teahousewhere you can get Myanmar-style breakfastfaves such as mohinga (noodle soup)or deep-fried sticks of dough.8InformationLocated towards the northern end of the village,Sandalwood (%09 856 8130), a cafeinformationcentre, is the place to go for localinformation. Tom Tom may have a few raggedcopies of a good local map printed by theMyanmar Hotelier Association, can arrangea day trip or snorkelling excursion, and rentsmotorcycles. If he’s not here, Tom Tom can alsobe found at his second offi ce at the Shwe HinTha Hotel.8Getting There & AroundTo get to Ngwe Saung from Yangon, see p 71 .A bus leaves for Yangon every morning at6.30am (K8000, six hours) from the crossroadsbetween the village and the beachresorts.Minibuses from Pathein (K3000, two hours)stop fi rst at the intersection between the beginningof the village and the Treasure BeachResort. If you're staying further south, thebus should be able to drop you at your resort;conversely, you should be able to catch the busleaving Ngwe Saung (7am, 8am, 9am, 11am and3pm) by waiting by the side of the road.Taxis can be arranged for Pathein (K40,000)and Yangon (K110,000).For information on motorbike taxis and boatsbetween Ngwe Saung and Chaung Tha Beachsee p 82 .There are a few trishaws available tocarry you between the resorts and the village(K1000), and motorbikes can be hired via

BIRD-SPOTTINGMyanmar isn’t known for its environmental awareness and the nation’s few nationalparks and protected areas are largely inaccessible to foreigners. Moeyungyi Wetlands(miu"yân'"äkI"ernk'kâ='"), about an hour northeast of Bago and close to the village of Pyinbongyi,is the one real exception to this rule.The wetlands originally started life as an artificial water storage reservoir in the 19thcentury, but over time the reservoir naturally morphed into a 15-sq-mile lake and marsh.Sitting on a migration route of birds fleeing the icy Siberian winter and attracting thousandsof local waders, the wetlands will bring a big grin to any birder’s face. The lastcensus revealed some 125 different species including great flocks of egrets, cormorants,white stalks and large numbers of the beautiful swamp hen (purple gallinule) as well assarus cranes with their brilliant red heads.Your best chance of seeing exotic birds is from December to February and duringthis time a small ‘resort’ offers excellent boat tours (up to six people) on the lake for $15per person for about two hours. As well as the boat driver, you will be accompanied by aguide – normally the very knowledgeable and informative Mr Aung Ko Oo. The boat willtake you whizzing over the lake to the marshy reed beds in the centre where the birdscongregate in vast numbers.Should you want to stay, the resort offers accommodation (%70113; per person $55)in floating houseboats from November to March. The price includes three meals and aboat ride and it’s essential that you book in advance. The rooms, though novel, are somewhatoverpriced and even serious birders may prefer to make a half-day tour from Bago.The resort is privately owned by Myanmar businesspeople, though the wetlandsthemselves belong to the government (see p 21 ).Sandalwood or from some hotels for aboutK12,000 per day.NORTH OF YANGON85NORTH AROUND OF YANGON 8 AROUND 8 NGWE SAUNGAround Ngwe SaungELEPHANT CAMPAround half an hour’s drive from NgweSaung is an elephant camp (admission$5, elephant rides $5; h8am-noon). Thoughthe dozen elephants here are working elephants,the camp itself is purely for touristsand no logging actually takes place.It’s possible to go for a half-hour elephantride through the forest – the romance ofwhich wears off in about 30 seconds. If youthought horses attracted a lot of large bitinginsects, just wait until you get on theback of an elephant!The camp used to be government run butis now a joint venture tied to the TreasureResort in Ngwe Saung, which in turn isowned by Tay Za (p 21 ).The camp is located approximately halfwaybetween Ngwe Saung and Pathein. Toget there, hop on any outbound bus, or TomTom at Sandalwood can arrange a motorcycletaxi for about $10.Taukkyaneq;k'äk®−%01 / POP C5000On the road to Bago, beyond Yangon’s airportat Mingaladon, you reach Taukkyan,where you will find the huge Taukkyan WarCemetery, maintained by the CommonwealthWar Graves Commission.It contains the graves of 6374 Alliedsoldiers who died in the Burma and Assamcampaigns of WWII. There is also amemorial bearing the names of the almost27,000 soldiers who died with no knowngrave. Slowly, as you walk around readingthe names of those who died and the epitaphscommemorating them, the heat of thesun seems to fade and the noise of the roadrecedes, leaving you alone in the silence ofyour own thoughts in this immensely sadplace.You can get to Taukkyan on bus 9 (9) fromYangon or aboard any Bago-bound bus fromthe Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal (p 71 ).

‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONBago (Pegu)pExU"%052 / POP C200,000Bago, a former capital, is a Disney-flavouredtheme park of gaudy religious sites. It wouldbe fair to say that this small and scrappy townprobably contains a greater density of blissedoutbuddhas and treasure-filled temples thanany other similar-sized town in southernMyanmar. All this makes Bago a superb andsimple day trip from Yangon, or the ideal firststop when you leave the city behind.HistoryBago was reputedly founded in AD 573 by twoMon princes from Thaton, who saw a femalehamsa (mythological bird) standing on theback of a male hamsa on an island in a hugelake. Taking this to be an auspicious omen,they founded a royal capital called Hanthawady(from the Pali-Sanskrit ‘Hamsavati’,meaning the ‘kingdom of the hamsa’) at theedge of the lake. During the later Mon dynasticperiods (1287–1539), Hanthawady becamethe centre of the Mon kingdom of Ramanadesa,which consisted of all southern Myanmar.The Bamar took over in 1539 when KingTabinshwehti annexed Bago to his Taungookingdom. The city was frequently mentionedby early European visitors – whoknew it as Pegu – as an important seaport.In 1740 the Mon, after a period of submissionto Taungoo, re-established Bago as theircapital, but in 1757 King Alaungpaya sackedand utterly destroyed the city. King Bodawpaya,who ruled from 1782 to 1819, rebuilt itto some extent, but when the river changedits course the city was cut off from the seaand lost its importance as a seaport. It neveragain reached its previous grandeur.1Sights & ActivitiesMany of Bago’s monuments are actually centuriesold, but don’t look it, due to extensiverestorations. This is an excellent place toexplore by bicycle, as most attractions arenear each other. Bikes are available for rentat Bago Star Hotel.Shwethalyaung BuddhaMONUMENTerás;elY;='".urC"Once upon a time a nasty king, who wentby the name of Mgadeikpa, ruled the landsaround what is today Bago. His reign wasmarked by corruption and violence, but oneday his son was out hunting in the forestswhen he came upon the village of Suvannabhumi,where his eye fell upon a Mon girlwho caused his heart to flutter. Even thoughshe was a Buddhist and he, like everyonein his father’s kingdom, worshipped paganidols, the two became lovers and married afterhe promised her that she could continueto practise Buddhism.Back at the court the king was furiouswhen he discovered this and ordered theexecution of both the girl and his son. Yetwhen the new bride prayed in front of thepagan idol it cracked and broke. The kingwas seized with fear and, realising the errorof his ways, he ordered the building of astatue of the Buddha and the conversion ofthe population to Buddhism.The gorgeous reclining buddha that yousee here today is said to be the result of thisdoomed love. Measuring 180ft long and 53fthigh, the Shwethalyaung is certainly theBago12# Ú 5# Ú 7#£ABYangon-Bago RdC# Ú3# ÚShwethalyaungBuddha6# Ú# Ú 1#£4# ÚHindu#ÞTemple #›See EnlargementMarket17#æ159# ú # ÿ# ÿ# ÿ # ú 11ToKyaik Pun Paya (500m);1213Bago Star Hotel (600m);Yangon (50mi)ABCFootbridgeBagoRiverYangon-Mandalay Rd‚666Bago River#e 0 1 km0 0.5 milesD14116 # ú#›#ð#ÿ 10 To# á ShwemawdawClock LeikpyaTower Reservoir Paya (300m);Hintha Gon(600m)Yangon-Mandalay Rd# Ú8D2#â2

kind of overwhelming object you would expectto be constructed by an absolute monarchwith a guilt complex – the little fingeralone extends 10ft.Since its original construction the statueunderwent several restorations before thedestruction of Bago in 1757. The town wasso completely ravaged that the huge buddhawas totally lost and overgrown by jungle. Itwas not rediscovered until 1880 and restorationbegan in 1881. The 1930s saw anotherflurry of renovation activity, as a mosaic wasadded to the great pillow on which the buddha’shead rests.Near the huge head of the image standsa statue of Lokanat (Lokanatha or Avalokitesvara),a Mahayana Buddhist deity borrowedby Burmese Buddhism.A Japanese war cemetery, Kyinigan Kyaung,can be seen on the grounds of a monasteryjust north of Shwethalyaung.Shwemawdaw PayaBUDDHIST STUPAeráem;'e/;.urC"A pyramid of washed-out gold in the middayhaze and glittering perfection in the eveningBagoæ Top SightsShwethalyaung Buddha...................... A1æ Sights1 Four Figures Paya................................ B12 Kanbawzathadi Palace........................D23 Kha Khat Wain Kyaung........................ C14 Maha Kalyani Sima (MahaKalyani Thein) ................................... B15 Mahazedi Paya..................................... A16 Naung Daw Gyi Mya ThaLyaung............................................... A17 Shwegugale Paya ................................ A18 Snake Monastery.................................D2ÿ Sleeping9 Emperor Hotel .....................................A210 Gandamar Hotel .................................. D111 Mya Nanda Hotel .................................A212 San Francisco Motel............................A2ú Eating13 Hadaya Café.........................................A214 Hanthawaddy....................................... D115 Three Five Restaurant.........................A2Transport16 Bus Station........................................... D117 Bus Station...........................................B2gloss, the 376ft-high Shwemawdaw Payastands tall and proud over the town. Accordingto murky legend the original stupa was asmall, ramshackle object, built by two brothers,Kullasala and Mahasala, to enshrine twohairs given to them by Gautama Buddha. InAD 982 a sacred tooth was added to the collection;in 1385 another tooth was addedand the stupa was rebuilt to a towering277ft. In 1492 strong winds blew over the htiand a new one was raised.The stupa has collapsed and been rebuiltmany times over the last 600 years;each time it has grown a little taller and thetreasures mounted in it have grown a littlethicker. The last time it was destroyed wasin 1930 when a huge earthquake completelylevelled it and for the next 20 years only thehuge earth mound of the base remained.Today the gaudy golden top of the stupareaches 46ft higher than the Shwedagon inYangon. At the northeastern corner of thestupa, a huge section of the hti toppled bythe 1917 earthquake has been mounted intothe structure of the stupa.The Shwemawdaw Paya is a particularlygood destination during Bago’s annual pagodafestival, in March/April.Hintha GonBUDDHIST STUPAhs¿Ckun'"Located behind the Shwemawdaw, thisshrine was once the one point in this wholevast area that rose above sea level and sowas the natural place for the hamsa to land.A statue of the bird, looking rather likethe figures on opium weights, tops the hill.The stupa was built by U Khanti, the hermitmonk who was the architect of MandalayHill. Walk to it by taking the steps down theother side of the Shwemawdaw from themain entrance. This paya is also a big spotfor nat (spirit beings) worship and festivalsand with a bit of luck you’ll catch the swirling,veiled forms of masculine-looking natdancers accompanied by the clanging andcrashing of a traditional orchestra.Kyaik Pun PayaMONUMENTkYŸik'pân'.urC"The Gautama Buddha and his three predecessorscan all be found hanging out togetherabout a mile south of Bago just offthe Yangon road.Built in 1476 by King Dhammazedi, theKyaik Pun Paya consists of four 100ft-highsitting buddhas placed back to back arounda huge, square pillar. According to legend,87NORTH AROUND OF YANGON SIGHTS BAGO (PEGU) & & ACTIVITIES

88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTRANCE FEES &OPENING HOURSThough foreigners can visit the townfor free, officially they must buy anentrance ticket ($10) valid for all thetown’s sights. During our visit, this couldbe purchased only at the ShwemawdawPaya, but should also be available at theShwethalyaung Buddha. Nearly all ofthe sights charge an additional K300for camera and K500 for videocameras.All the sights are open from just beforesunrise until well after dark.four Mon sisters were connected with theconstruction of the buddhas; it was said thatif any of them should marry, one of the buddhaswould collapse. One of the four buddhasdisintegrated in the 1930 earthquake,leaving only a brick outline (since restored)and a very old bride.Maha Kalyani Sima(Maha Kalyani Thein)BUDDHIST TEMPLEmhCklY;,Isim'et;'äkI"This ‘Sacred Hall of Ordination’ was originallyconstructed in 1476 by Dhammazedi,the famous alchemist king and son of QueenShinsawpu. Like almost everything in Bagoit has suffered a tumbledown history andhas been destroyed and rebuilt many a time.Next to the hall are 10 large tablets withinscriptions in Pali and Mon describing thehistory of Buddhism in Myanmar.If you can’t get enough of buddha statuesthen across the road from the Maha KalyaniSima is the Four Figures Paya, with fourbuddha figures standing back to back. Anadjacent open hallway has a small recliningbuddha image, thronged by followers, andsome macabre paintings of wrongdoers beingtortured in the afterlife.Relaxing in the sun next to these twomonuments is the Naung Daw Gyi MyaTha Lyaung, a reclining buddha sprawledout over 250ft, which is almost as long as itsname. It was built in 2002 with donationsfrom the people and, though locals adore it,you probably won’t find it all that interesting.Mahazedi PayaBUDDHIST STUPAmhCectI.urC"The design of the Mahazedi Paya (Great Stupa),with its whitewashed stairways leadingalmost to the stupa’s summit, is unusual forsouthern Myanmar and certainly one of themore attractive religious buildings in Bago.Originally constructed in 1560 by KingBayinnaung, it was destroyed during the 1757sacking of Bago. An attempt to rebuild it in1860 was unsuccessful and the great earthquakeof 1930 comprehensively levelled it,after which it remained a ruin. This currentreconstruction was only completed in 1982.The Mahazedi originally contained a Buddhatooth, at one time thought to be the mostsacred of all Buddha relics, the tooth of Kandy,Sri Lanka. After Bago was conquered in 1539,the tooth was moved to Taungoo and thento Sagaing near Mandalay. Together with abegging bowl supposed to have been used bythe Buddha, it remains in the KaunghmudawPaya (p 229 ), near Sagaing, to this day.Shwegugale PayaBUDDHIST STUPAerá8Ukel".urC"A little beyond the Mahazedi, this zedi has adark gu (tunnel) around the circumferenceof the cylindrical superstructure. The monumentdates to 1494 and the reign of King ByinnyaYan. Inside are 64 seated buddha figures.In the evening many locals venture out here.From the zedi, cross a rickety woodenfootbridge and you’ll arrive at a nat shrinewith life-sized statues of Ko Thein and KoThant, the nat of the temple compound.Kanbawzathadi PalacePALACEkemõCjsCdInn'"et;'The original site of Hanthawady, which surroundedKanbawzathadi Palace, a formerMon palace, was excavated just south of thehuge Shwemawdaw Paya. Walled in the Monstyle, the square city measured a mile alongeach side and had 20 gates.THE HAMSAIn deference to legend, the symbolfor Bago is a female hamsa (hinthaor hantha in Burmese; a mythologicalbird) standing on the back of a malehamsa. At a deeper level, the symbolhonours the compassion of the malehamsa in providing a place for thefemale to stand in the middle of a lakewith only one island. Hence, the menof Bago are said to be more chivalrousthan men from other Burmese areas. Inpopular Burmese culture, however, menjoke that they dare not marry a womanfrom Bago for fear of being henpecked!

Other AttractionsKha Khat Wain KyaungMONASTERYThe is one of the three largest monasteriesin the country and watching the long lineof monks and novices file out in the earlymorning for their daily round of alms isquite a sight.Busloads of tourists visit the monks atlunchtime (10.30am). You’re free to wanderaround the eating hall, and most of the monksthink it’s hilarious that tourists come andwatch them eat, but the atmosphere is a bitlike a zoo. Prior to the protests of 2007 therewere supposedly 1500 monks in residencehere but afterward that figure fell to just 400.Snake MonasteryMONASTERYA short distance from the KanbawzathadiPalace and Museum is the Snake Monastery,where you’ll find a former head of a monasteryin Hsipaw reincarnated in the form of anenormous 118-year-old Burmese python. Apparentlythe snake told its owner up north theexact address he needed to go to in Bago inorder to complete the construction of a stupabegun in a previous life. Streams of pilgrimscome to pay fearful homage to the snake.Even if the snake isn’t actually a monk,it is amazing simply because of its sheersize. Burmese pythons are regarded as oneof the world’s largest snakes but this one,which chows down 11lb of chickens every 10days, has to be at least 17ft long and a footwide, making it probably one of the largestin the world. Don’t worry though, it’s harmless.There’s a zedi nearby on a small hilltopthat’s great for watching sunsets.The temple and zedi are somewhat hardto find, so unless you can speak Burmese, it’sprobably a good idea to hire a guide.zFestivals & EventsShwemawdaw Paya Festival RELIGIOUSOn the full moon of the Burmese lunarmonth of Tagu (March/April) this festivalattracts huge crowds of worshippers andmerrymakers.4SleepingThe quality of accommodation reflects thefact that many travellers visit Bago only forthe day. Most of the options are on the busyand – make no mistake about this – noisymain road, so rooms towards the back ofthese hotels are the choice pickings. Electricityis generally available only from theevening to early morning.BAGO ON TWO WHEELSWith impressive temples, emerald ricefields and a buzzing city all within cyclingdistance of your hotel, you couldeasily spend a day or two exploringBago on two wheels.Travellers keen to avoid governmentownedhotels should bypass the ShwewatunHotel, out towards the Shwemawdaw Paya.Bago Star Hotel RESORT $$(%30066; http://bagostarhotel.googlepages.com;11-13 Kyaikpon Pagoda Rd; s/d $24/30; as) TheStar, one of the better choices in Bago, is locatedjust off the highway and only a shortwalk to the ever-watching eyes of the KyaikPun Paya. The business card describes theaccommodation as ‘Country style, Bangalowtype Hotel’ and the A-frame wooden roomsand pool do give the place a summer-campfeel. The showers are hot, the swimmingpool is murky and the restaurant is echoingand formal. Bikes can be rented for K1000a day. Generators keep the air-conditioninghumming.Emperor Hotel HOTEL $(%21349; Main Rd; s/d $6-14; a) This place isthe best of the downtown budget lot. Roomshave recently been repainted, in a very sexypink, of course, and the more expensive havea bit of light and space. The hotel’s size allowssome respite from the city noise, androoftop offers great views of the surroundingreligious monuments.Gandamar Hotel HOTEL $$(%201629; Shwemawdaw Paya Rd; s/d $20/25;a) That rarest of things in Myanmar, a newhotel! The 35 rooms here are located outsideof the city centre, a short walk from ShwemawdawPaya. Also working in its favouris a generator that provides electricity 24/7.The bad news? The generator also providesjuice for an adjacent karaoke lounge.San Francisco Motel HOTEL $(%22265; 14 Main Rd; r $4-10; a) The rooms arerough and ready but fear not, for this is anexcellent budget hang-out in the true senseof the word. The guys who run it organiseexcellent motorbike tours of Bago’s sightsand are so knowledgeable that by all rightsthey should actually be a tourist office.89NORTH AROUND OF YANGON FESTIVALS BAGO (PEGU) & & EVENTS

90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE ORDINARY/UPPER ($) DURATION (HR) DEPARTUREYangon 2/5 3 6am-8pmMawlamyine 5/12 7-9 8.18am, 9.07amMandalay10/27146.11am, 6.51am, 7.21am, 7.50am, 1.50pmAROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONMya Nanda Hotel HOTEL $(%19799; 10 Main Rd; r $6-15; a) An acceptable,if grubby, budget choice, and the staff herecan arrange motorbike taxis and guides sothat you can check out the sights.5EatingHanthawaddy CHINESE, BURMESE $$(192 Hintha St; mains K2000-8000; hlunch &dinner) The food here isn’t amazing, but it’sthe only restaurant in Bago with a bit ofatmosphere. Located across from the footballpitch and a short walk from GandamarHotel, the open-air upper level is breezy andoffers great views of Shwewawdaw Paya.And perhaps the food situation will changewhen, as we were told, they get a Thai chef.Three Five Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(10 Main Rd; mains K1200-4000; hall day; a)A friendly, but shabby, place a few doorswest of the Emperor Hotel. The menu is acombination of Bamar, Chinese, Indian andEuropean; the food is cheap and good, andthe menu includes ‘goat fighting balls’ (goattesticles), prepared in a number of ways.Hadaya Café TEAHOUSE $(hbreakfast & lunch) Opposite the EmperorHotel, this popular teahouse has a niceselection of pastries and good-quality teaand coffee.8InformationSTG Computer Center (Yangon-Mandalay Rd;per hr K500; h5am-5pm) Offers basic internetservice east of the river. Other similar cafes canbe found northwest of the clock tower alongYangon-Mandalay Rd.8Getting There & AwayBusFor buses from Yangon, see p 70 .Bago’s bus station (Yangon-Mandalay Rd) isabout halfway between the town centre and theBago Star Hotel, located across from the Hindutemple. Many buses passing through Bago canalso be waved down from outside your hotel,though unless you have booked a ticket in advancethere is less likelihood of a seat.Buses to Yangon (K1500, two hours) departapproximately every 45 minutes from 6.45amto 5.15pm.Going south, buses to Kinpun, the startingpoint for Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock), leave everyhour or so during the day (K5000, three hours).During the rainy season (May to October), busesgo only as far as Kyaikto, 10 miles from Kinpun.Departures for Mawlamyine are at 7.45am, 8amand 9am (K8000, seven hours).Heading north, for Mandalay there are departuresat 5.30pm and 8pm (K11,500). It’s alsopossible to hop on one of the buses comingfrom Yangon – try to book ahead and ask yourhotel to help. For Taungoo and Inle Lake, youmight be able to grab a seat on one of the busesoriginating in Yangon between 1.30pm and 4pm(K14,000 to K16,000, 12 hours).TaxiA more expensive but more convenient alternativeis to hire a taxi for a day trip from Yangon.With bargaining this should cost about $60, but itdoes give you the additional advantage of havingtransport between sites once you get to Bago andsaves traipsing all the way out to the bus stationin Yangon. One-way taxis back from Bago straightto your hotel in Yangon cost about K40,000.A guide and driver to Mt Kyaiktiyo (GoldenRock, p 93 ) can be hired for around $55 return.For any of the above, you can inquire at thetown’s taxi stand (Yangon-Mandalay Rd) orthrough any of the central Bago hotels.TrainFor trains from Yangon see p 71 .8Getting AroundTrishaw is the main form of local transport inBago. A one-way trip in the central area shouldcost no more than K500. If you’re going furtherafi eld – say from Shwethalyaung Buddha, at oneend of town, to Shwemawdaw Paya, at the other –you might as well hire a trishaw or motorcycle forthe day, either of which should cost about K6000.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdSoutheasternMyanmarMon State . . . . . . . . . . . 93Mt Kyaiktiyo(Golden Rock) . . . . . . .93Mawlamyine(Moulmein). . . . . . . . . .96Around Mawlamyine . 101Kayin State . . . . . . . . . 104Hpa-an . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Around Hpa-an . . . . . .108Tanintharyi(Tenasserim) Region . . 110Best Places to Eat» San Ma Tau MyanmarRestaurant (p 107 )» Beer Garden 2 (p 100 )» Mi Cho Restaurant (p 100 )Best Places toStay» Cinderella Hotel (p 99 )» Golden Sunrise Hotel(p 95 )» Hotel Zwegabin (p 106 )» Soe Brothers Guesthouse(p 106 )» Mountain Top Hotel (p 95 )» Breeze Guest House (p 99 )Why Go?Although virtually unknown to the outside world, the pleasuresof southeastern Myanmar are diverse and wonderful,and exist on a variety of levels.The caves around sleepy Hpa-an will escort visitors tounparalleled depths and darkness, while the ascent to thesacred golden boulder at Mt Kyaiktiyo might have you believingthat you’ve gone to heaven. And somewhere in themiddle, the romantic ferry ride from Hpa-an to Mawlamyine(Moulmein) features some of the best of what MiddleEarth has to offer.Yet another inspiring intersection of land and water isTanintharyi (Tessarim) Division, Myanmar’s Deep Southand home to some of the most gorgeous coastline inSoutheast Asia. Unfortunately, access to this area is strictlylimited to a trio of towns or by pre-arranged governmentsanctionedluxury package tours, which essentially makesit out of bounds for all but the most determined.When to GoThe weather in the southeast is largely similar to that of therest of Myanmar. Temperatures can reach as high as 86°F(30°C) during the summer (from March to May), and thedays are relatively cool during the winter (from Novemberto January), with an annual high temperature of around90°F (32°C). The region sees more rain than elsewhere inthe country during the wet season (from approximatelyJune to October), and annual rainfall in Mawlamyine canreach 190in.

92SOUTHEASTERN MYANMARSoutheasternMyanmarHighlights1 Reach forenlightenment at thegolden, gravity-defyingMt Kyaiktiyo (GoldenRock; p 93 )2 Discoverseemingly hiddenlakes, hangingBuddhist art and asparkling spring in thecaves (p 108 ) aroundHpa-an3 Taking what couldvery well be one ofthe last trips alongthe Thanlwin River(Salween River) onthe double-deckerMawlamyine to Hpaanferry (p 107 )4 Compose proseto rival Kipling’s ‘Bythe old MoulmeinPagoda, lookin’ lazyat the sea’ in go-slowMawlamyine (p 96 )5 Exploring theremote ruins, sacredtemples and unknownbeaches aroundMawlamyine (p101)6 Scale Hpa-an'sHpan Pu Mountain(p 108 ) for one of thebest views in Myanmar.7 Give back to thecommunity with avolunteer teachingstint at Kinpun’s SeikPhu Taung YouthDevelopment Centre(p 94 )SittoungRiverMt Weik-zar(3681ft)Mt Kyaiktiyo(Golden Rock)KinpunTheinseik8 Hpan PuMountainThatonHpa-anGulf ofMottama(Martaban)Nwa-La-BoPagodaMawlamyine(Moulmein)Bilu KyunKyaikkamiSetseKalagokKyunHeinzeKyunThanlwinRiverKyaikmarawMudonKAYINSTATEThanbyuzayatMONSTATEPayathonzuYeKanbaukMaungmaganKyunThaungyinDaweiRiverRiverMt Zwegabin(2372ft)Mawlamyine toHpa-an ferry Myawadi858ZamiRiverThreePagodas PassSangkhlaburiDawei (Tavoy)0 80 km0 50 milesTHAILANDMae SotLaunglonKyunThayetchaungA N D A M A NS E AZalutDaweiPointMaliKyunTANINTHARYI(TENASSERIM)REGIONPalaukTanintharyi River

TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are restricted from travellingby land south of Thanbyuzayat in MonState. Southeastern Myanmar has twoland crossings officially open to foreigners,but visits must be within the citylimits, and you’re generally expected toexit the way you came in.Confusing things even more, ifyou’ve come to Myanmar via Yangon,it is possible to fly, without advancepermission, to the southern cities ofDawei (Tavoy), Myeik (Mergui) andKawthoung but, once there, you’re notallowed to leave the city limits and youmust also return by air.Visiting the untouched beaches andislands of southern Myanmar’s Tanintharyi(Tenasserim) Region is a wholeother bag of worms. For details on thehoops you have to jump through toreach this region, see p 110 .MON STATEMagnificent Mon State (mân'¨p–'ny') is so fullof wonders that it’s a wonder that the wholeworld isn’t wondering about holidaying here!There are two dominant colours: the gold of azillion breathtaking temples and the green ofa million, zillion flouncy palm trees. Travellingin this region is generally easy (at least, forMyanmar) and distances short; yet, strangely,few visitors seem to make it down here.HistoryOnce native to a broad region stretchingfrom southern Myanmar to Cambodia, theMon have been absorbed – sometimes willingly,sometimes unwillingly – by the morepowerful Bamar and Thai cultures in Myanmarand Thailand respectively over the lastthousand years.Though no one knows for sure, the Monmay be descended from a group of Indian immigrantsfrom Kalinga, an ancient kingdomoverlapping the boundaries of the modernIndian states of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh.They are responsible for much of the earlymaintenance and transmission of TheravadaBuddhism in mainland Southeast Asia.Since 1949 the eastern hills of the state (aswell as mountains further south in TanintharyiRegion) have been a refuge for theNew Mon State Party (NMSP) and its tacticalarm, the Mon National Liberation Front(MNLF), whose objective has been self-rulefor Mon State.In 1995, after years of bickering and fighting,the NMSP signed a ceasefire with theMyanmar government. Still, reports continueof fighting, instances of forced labour andharassment of Mon villagers. Partly becauseof this, there remains much emigration toThailand.Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)kYŸik'qI"riu"etC='%057Floating in atmospheric clouds high abovethe coastal plains and, it seems, almostwithin touching distance of the heavens isthe prayer- and wish-drenched, balancingboulder stupa of Kyaiktiyo.This sublime and magical monument isa major pilgrimage site for Burmese Buddhists.Its image adorns many a local’s carwindscreen or family hearth and every goodBuddhist dreams of the day they finally seteyes on this holiest of shrines.The atmosphere surrounding Kyaiktiyoduring the height of the pilgrimage season(from November to March) is charged withmagic and devotion, especially when theglinting boulder is bathed in the purple,sometimes misty, light of dawn and dusk.Pilgrims chant, light candles and meditateall through the night. Men (only) are permittedto walk along a short causeway and overa bridge spanning a chasm to the boulder toaffix gold leaf squares on the rock’s surface.For a mere tourist, Mt Kyaiktiyo is a sightand an experience to rival the wonders ofthe Shwedagon Paya or the breathtakingbeauty of Bagan. Like any proper pilgrimage,a visit here involves a certain amount ofhardship and nobody should approach thisholy mountain lightly.The constructed plaza around Kyaiktiyo isthe typical Myanmar mix of religious iconographyand commercial development: monksand laypeople meditate in front of goldenbuddha statues while, several yards away, rosarybeads and toy wooden rifles are for sale(these are especially popular with monks!).There are several other stupas andshrines scattered on the ridge at the top ofMt Kyaiktiyo, though none is as impressiveas Kyaiktiyo itself. Even so, the interconnectingtrails sometimes lead to unexpectedviews of the valleys below.93MON SOUTHEASTERN STATEMYANMAR MT KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)

94SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATELEGEND OF THEBALANCING BOULDERLegend states that the boulder at MtKyaiktiyo maintains its precarious balancedue to a precisely placed Buddhahair in the stupa . Apparently King Tissareceived the Buddha hair in the 11thcentury from a hermit who had secretedthe hair in his own topknot. Thehermit instructed the king to search fora boulder that had a shape resemblingthe hermit’s head, and then enshrinethe hair in a stupa on top. The king,who inherited supernatural powersas a result of his birth to a zawgyi (anaccomplished alchemist) father andnaga (dragon serpent) princess, foundthe rock at the bottom of the sea. Uponits miraculous arrival on the mountaintop, the boat used to transport therock then turned to stone. This stonecan be seen approximately 270yd fromthe main boulder – it’s known as theKyauk thanban (Stone Boat Stupa).Further behind the pagoda plaza area,down a stairway, there is a village of restaurants,souvenir shops and guesthouses forMyanmar citizens.OrientationToo many towns with similar-soundingnames make orientation confusing. Thetown of Kyaikto is the least important. Thisis the town along the highway between Bagoand places further south. There is no reasonto get out here or to stay here: most busesturn off the highway and end their journeysin Kinpun at the base of the mountain,about 6 miles from the Hwy 85.Climbing the MountainFrom Kinpun, the base camp for the mountain,there are two ways to get to the rock.The first is to hike all the way there. This isapproximately 7 miles and takes betweenfour and six hours. The trail begins past thebazaar of souvenir shops in Kinpun and thereare numerous ‘rest camps’ along the waywhere weary pilgrims can snack and rehydrate.Not many people, even the true devotees,choose to hike all the way up and back.The way down takes from three to four hoursand should not be attempted in the dark evenwith a torch; it’s too easy to stumble.The second way to the rock, which mostpeople do both ways, is to ride one of thelarge trucks (lain-ka; per person K1500)up the winding road to the Yatetaung busterminal, the end point for all passenger vehicles.The truck beds are lined with woodenslats for benches and seat 35 or so people.Five passengers are allowed in the muchmore comfortable front seats (per personK2000) but these are usually reserved in advanceby groups or families. As an individualtraveller it’s difficult to secure a front seat,while a group of five has a better chance.Regardless, you could be in for a wait of anhour or more, as trucks don’t leave until theyare completely packed to the brim.The ride to the bus terminal takes 45minutes and usually includes a stop aroundhalfway up to allow trucks coming from theopposite direction to pass. The first truck inthe morning leaves at 6am and the last truckdown departs at 6pm, though you should tryto be at the Yatetaung bus terminal earlier toavoid the risk of being stranded for the night.From the terminal (nothing more than adirt lot surrounded by snack and souvenirshops), it takes 45 minutes to an hour to hikeup the remaining steep, paved switchbackpath to the rock. Those with accessibilityconcerns, or royal fantasies, might want to becarried the rest of the way in a sedan chair – acanvas litter held aloft by four perspiring Burmesemen. (A one-way ticket costs $5 to $7.)Walking or reclining, you pass through anarray of vendors along the way to the stupaarea at the top.There is a $6 government entrance feeand $2 camera fee, payable at the checkpointnear the top, just after the MountainTop Hotel. The ticket is valid for 30 days, soyou may visit again without paying the governmentanother $6. Men wearing shortsor women wearing trousers, miniskirts orskimpy tops risk being denied entry.Hiking & Other ActivitiesIf you have the time to extend your stay inthe vicinity there are several other rewardinghikes that take in eye-popping views andquiet religious meditation. You can startyour journey from Kinpun, the Yatetaungbus terminal, or even the shrine itself.From Kinpun the most obvious short hikeis to Maha Myaing Pagoda, a miniatureKyaiktiyo, an hour’s climb from Kinpun. Anyof the Kinpun hotels can point you in theright direction.

From Yatetaung bus station it’s a 45-minute climb to the top of Mt Ya-The, a30-minute walk down to Mo-Baw Waterfalland a 1½-hour walk to the Sa-ma-taungpaya and kyaung (monastery).From Kyaiktiyo itself a trail continuesalong the crests of the surrounding peaks foranother couple of hours to the Kyauk-si-yoPagoda and Kyaiktiyo Galay Zedi.If you’d like to spend more time in thearea or want to give something back to thecommunity, the Seik Phu Taung YouthDevelopment Centre (%60353), locatedbetween Kyaikto and Kinpun, is an established,temple-based orphanage that acceptsvolunteer English teachers. Basic food andlodging is provided and a minimum stay oftwo weeks is the norm.4SleepingAlthough Kyaiktiyo can be visited as a daytrip from Bago and, in theory, Yangon, thisisn’t recommended; the advantage of stayingnear the shrine is that you can catchsunset and sunrise – the most magical times.Foreigners aren’t permitted to stay in one ofthe many zayat (rest shelters) for pilgrimsat the top, nor are they permitted to camp inwooded areas on the mountain.In the town of Kyaikto along the mainroad from Bago there are several guesthouses,none of them very appealing, andthere really is no reason to stay here ratherthan in Kinpun.ON THE MOUNTAINIf you want to catch the best light and mostenchanting atmosphere at the shrine (andyes, you do) then you simply have no choicebut to stay at one of the three overpriced hotelsnear the top.Mountain Top Hotel HOTEL $$$(%in Yangon 01-502 479; grtt@goldenrock.com.mm;r $50-78; a) Yes, the rooms in the MountainTop Inn are overpriced but they’re clean andwell maintained, with good service. They’realso situated right on the summit of themountain only a couple of moments’ stroll tothe shrine complex – an unbeatable position.The more expensive ‘deluxe’ rooms have aircon,a TV, a mini bar and great views.Kyaiktiyo Hotel HOTEL $$(%in Yangon 01-663 341; s/d $40/50) This formergovernment-owned hotel is where mostpackage tourists stay. It’s unremarkable, buthas the benefit of being located a short walkfrom the Golden Rock. We’ve come acrossreports of things missing from rooms here,so take care to look after your valuables ifyou choose to stay.Golden Rock Hotel HOTEL $$$(%70174; grtt@goldenrock.com.mm; r $46-72; a)The Golden Rock Hotel, just a few minutesup from the Yatetaung bus terminal, but atleast 45 minutes from the shrine, is in a lovelyspot and has larger and marginally more endearingrooms than the Mountain Top Hotel.The only problem is that its positioning –halfway between everywhere but not reallyanywhere – makes it a little inconvenient.KINPUNoGolden Sunrise Hotel HOTEL $$(%in Yangon 01-701 027; gsunrise@myanmar.com.mm; s $20, d $30-35; a) A few minutes’ walkoutside the centre of Kinpun village in thedirection of the highway, the Golden Sunriseis one of the best value hotels in southeasternMyanmar. There are eight bamboo-heavybungalows with a touch of class. The spaciousrooms are undisturbed by noise and immaculatelyclean and, for once, the bathrooms area sheer delight to spend time in! The privateverandahs overlooking the secluded gardensare the perfect place to relax at the end of theday with a drink.Sea Sar Guest House HOTEL $(%60367; r $5-15; a) In the heart of the town,but set in spacious gardens a little way backfrom the pilgrimage noise, the more expensiverooms at the Sea Sar are memorable forall the right reasons. They’re clean, with hotshowers, silky soft beds and wooden floors –you can’t really go far wrong. The cheaperrooms, though, are more disappointing andlook as dark and messy as a crime scene. Thestaff are dialled into travellers’ needs andcan provide local maps with marked walks,taxi services and bus tickets. The restaurantcan do a variety of basic Burmese dishes forK1500 to K2000.Pann Myo Thu Inn GUESTHOUSE $(%60285; r $5-20; a) This green-themed inn(the building is green and it’s full of greenplants and lots of green, flowering orchids)is another great choice. The cheap rooms arebetter value than those at the Sea Sar, butthe pricier ones are not quite as neat. It has afriendly home-away-from-home feel – probablybecause it is in fact the owner’s home.95MON SOUTHEASTERN STATE SLEEPINGMYANMAR SLEEPINGMT KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)

96SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATE5EatingBecause Kinpun is the starting point for MtKyaiktiyo, there are numerous Chinese andBamar restaurants running up and downthe town’s main street, capitalising on themountain’s popularity.In addition to the food stalls at Kinpunand all along the footpaths, there is a veritablefood court of restaurants at the summit,past the shrines and plaza area and downthe steps.Mya Yeik Nyo BURMESE $(meals from K2000) This is the pick of thebunch, and the one that all taxi drivers willrecommend. It’s very close to where thetrucks depart for the mountain.8InformationKinpun is where you’ll fi nd most of the accommodationfor foreigners – besides a few hotelsnear the top of the mountain itself. It’s also thestarting point for trips up the mountain to Kyaiktiyo.There is no internet access.8Getting There & AwayFor individual travellers, Bago makes a betterstarting point for road trips to Kyaiktiyo thanYangon, as Bago hotel staff are adept at arranginginexpensive alternatives. A guide and driverto Kyaiktiyo can be hired through any of thecentral Bago hotels (p 89 ) for $55.Bus & Pick-Up TruckFor buses from Yangon, see p 70 .Win Express run air-con buses from Kyaikto toBago (three hours) and Yangon (fi ve hours) at8.30am, 10am, 12.30pm, 2pm. Despite whereyou’re getting off, you’ll have to pay the full fareto Yangon (K7000). Tickets can be purchased inKinpun across from Sea Sar Guest House. Theticket price includes truck fare to Kyaikto, whereyou’ll board the bus.Similar air-con buses also run to Mawlamyine(K7000, 4½ hours) at 5am, 6am, 7.30am,8.30am and 10.30am.Small pick-up trucks leave from Kinpun toHpa-An (K5000, fi ve hours) from 6am to 1pm, orthere is a more comfortable bus (K7000) thathas a useful departure time of 1.30pm.Pick-ups cruise the road between Kyaikto andKinpun every half an hour or so (K500).TrainFor times and prices of trains from Yangon, seep 71 . Trains run to Yangon (ordinary $3 to $4, upper$6 to $9; fi ve hours; departure 10am, 1.20pm,3.40pm) and Mawlamyine (ordinary $3, upper $6to $7; four hours; 6.20am, 10.40am, 12.30pm).Trucks run between Kyaikto’s train station andKinpun every half an hour or so (K500).Mawlamyine (Moulmein)em;'l¨miŸ='%057 / POP C300,000With a ridge of stupa-capped hills on oneside, the sea on the other and a centre filledwith mosques and crumbling colonial-erabuildings, Mawlamyine is a unique combinationof beauty and melancholy. If you'veever wondered what life was like duringthe Raj, Mawlamyine is about as close as itcomes to a living time capsule.But it’s not all about history; the areaaround Mawlamyine has enough attractions –from beaches to caves – to keep a visitorhappy for several days.Mawlamyine (some maps may show it asMawlamyaing) served as the capital of BritishBurma from 1827 to 1852, during whichtime it developed as a major teak port. Agreat deal of coastal shipping still goes on,although Pathein and Yangon have supersededit as Myanmar’s most important ports.The city is composed roughly of 75% Mon, orsome mixture of Mon, plus Kayin, Bamar, Indian,Chinese and other ethnic groups.1Sights & ActivitiesMon Cultural MuseumMUSEUMmân'yw'ekY"mHU¨ptiuk'(cnr Baho Rd & Dawei Jetty Rd; admission $2;h9.30am-4.30pm Sun-Fri) This governmentrun,two-storey museum is dedicated to theMon history of the region. It’s on the cornerof Baho Rd (formerly Dalhousie St). Themuseum’s modest collection includes stelaewith Mon inscriptions, 100-year-old woodensculptures depicting old age and sickness(used as dhamma-teaching devices in monasteries),ceramics, silver betel boxes, royalfunerary urns, Mon musical instrumentsand wooden buddha altars.This is all well and good, but unfortunatelythe collection is so poorly lit that manyof the exhibits are actually impossible to seewithout a torch!Buddhist MonumentsUnknown Mawlamyine has inspired two ofhistory’s finest writers of the English language– George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling.Orwell lived here for some years (the famousessay ‘Shooting an Elephant’ is about an experiencehe had as a police officer in Maw-

MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen Christian who has lived in Mawlamyine for 12 years, but I only speak a littlebit of Mon. I work at Breeze Rest House and as a local guide.Best VillageOn Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island; p 101 ) there are many villages. Tourists can see the traditionalMon way of life, including villages that make good-quality walking sticks and rubber bandsfrom local rubber. Sometimes, during a festival, tourists can see traditional kickboxing.Best TempleSeindon Mibaya Kyaung (p 96 ) has some artistic wooden crafts and antiques. There’s avery old throne and some carvings from ivory donated by King Mindon’s wife.Best BeachSetse Beach (p 104 ) is the only beach around Mawlamyine. It’s a quiet place and not farfrom Kyaikkami and the Yele Paya.Best Day TripNwa-La-Bo Pagoda (p 102 ) is a rock pagoda on the top of a hill, like the famous GoldenRock. It’s only a half-hour drive from Mawlamyine but not many tourists go there.Secret SpotFrom a viewpoint between U Zina Paya and Kyaikthanlan Paya (p 96 ), on the high peaklooking over the town, you can see what many tourists say is the most beautiful sunset inSoutheast Asia.lamyine), and generations of his family wereborn and bred here. Kipling’s visit was shorter,just three days, but resulted in a few linesof prose that turned Burma into an orientalfantasy: ‘By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’lazy at the sea…’ The spirit of the poem ‘Mandalay’,from which these words arise, lives onin Mawlamyine in the form of the golden poemsof Buddhist stupas sprawled across thejungle ridge behind the town.At the northern end of this ridge is Mahamuni(Bahaman) Paya, the largest templecomplex and easily the most beautiful inMawlamyine. It’s built in the typical Monstyle with covered brick walkways linkingvarious shrines. The highlight is the BahamanPaya itself, a jewel-box chamber shimmeringwith mirrors, rubies and diamondsand containing a century-old replica of itsnamesake in Mandalay (p 208 ).Farther south along the ridge is KyaikthanlanPaya, the city’s tallest and mostvisible stupa. Impressive though the payais, it didn’t do much for Kipling, who waslater to comment of it: ‘I should better rememberwhat the pagoda was like had I notfallen deeply and irrevocably in love with aBurmese girl at the foot of the first flight ofsteps. Only the fact of the steamer startingnext noon prevented me from staying atMoulmein forever.’ He was certainly not thelast to think like that…Just below the paya, you can admire theview over the city; it’s a favoured spot forwatching the sunset. The best way to approachthe paya from town is via the long coveredwalkway that extends from Kyaikthan St.Below Kyaikthanlan is the 100-year-oldSeindon Mibaya Kyaung, a monasterywhere King Mindon Min’s queen, Seindon,sought refuge after Myanmar’s last monarch,King Thibaw Min, took power. On thenext rise south stands the isolated silverand-gold-platedAung Theikdi Zedi.U Khanti Paya was built to commemoratethe hermit architect of Mandalay Hillfame; supposedly U Khanti spent some timeon this hill as well. It’s a rustic, airy sort ofplace centred around a large buddha image.U Zina Paya, on the southern spur of theridge, was named after a former monk whodreamt of finding gems at this very spot,then dug them up and used the proceedsto build a temple on the same site. One ofthe shrine buildings contains a very curvy,sensual-looking reclining buddha; there are97MON SOUTHEASTERN STATE SIGHTS MYANMAR & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS MAWLAMYINE & ACTIVITIES (MOULMEIN)

98SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATEMawlamyine (Moulmein)0 500 mú #ABCDTo Gaungse Kyun(Shampoo Island) (0.3mi) f# 26 f#2918ú# 13#ÿ21Ú#91#›(Former) # ÿThanlwin RiverMawlamyine Buses toHotelKyonkaVillage27 f#11# ÿ19 ú## ß 4To Bilu# ß 52 Kyun‚(0.75mi)# þ22f#25# þ# þ 2423f#828 # ßMahamuni3PrisonÚ#(Bahaman)PayaKyaikthanlanÚ#PayaÚ# Ú#71412 # ÿ # ð 17 # ÿ 14#ñ # ÿú##›Bus16Ú#10 Station#òTrainStationMyanma# AirwaysOffice35 æ#To Beer ú#20# â 6Garden2(0.3mi) # ÿ 152 Ü#Strand Rd‚Strand RdSouth Bogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd)AThaton Tar Par StSi Bin Thar Yat StNorth Bogyoke RdKyaikthan RdHt et Rd Magyi(Upper Main Rd)6#£6Baho RdMyoma Tadar StDawei Jetty Rd‚Rd Magyi(Upper Main R d)HtetBC#e 0 0.2 milesDTo Hpa-an(40mi)‚12345also statues depicting Gautama Buddha’smeeting with a sick man, an old man, adead man and an ascetic – encounters thatencouraged him to seek a meaning behindhuman suffering.Other Religious MonumentsIn the centre of town towards the waterfront,on South Bogyoke Rd, are threemosques built during the colonial era whenmany Indians arrived to work for the British.Since the Indian exodus of the 1970s,Muslim congregations have declined substantially,but the survival of these grandold buildings makes a walk here a fleetingexercise in nostalgia.The Kaladan Mosque was designed bySunni Muslims in an elaborate ‘weddingcake’style. Further south, on the same sideof the street, is the smaller Moghul ShiahMosque, a Shi’ite place of worship that wasunder construction at the time of research.A couple of blocks further, south of the centralmarket, the Sunni Surtee Sunni JamaeMasjid fills a similar space but presents amore multi-coloured facade.Just up from Dawei jetty, on the easternside of Strand Rd, the small but colourful

Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsKyaikthanlan Paya...............................C3Mahamuni (Bahaman) Paya...............C3æ Sights1 Aung Theikdi Zedi................................C42 First Baptist Church ............................B53 Htyan Haw Chinese Temple ...............A54 Kaladan Mosque..................................A25 Moghul Shiah Mosque.........................A26 Mon Cultural Museum.........................B57 Seindon Mibaya Kyaung .....................C48 Surtee Sunni Jamae Masjid................A39 U Khanti Paya ......................................C410 U Zina Paya ..........................................C4ÿ Sleeping11 Attran Hotel ......................................... A112 Aurora Guest House............................A413 Breeze Guest House............................A414 Cinderella Hotel ...................................B415 Ngwe Moe Hotel ..................................A516 Sandalwood Hotel ...............................A4ú Eating17 Chan Thar Restaurant.........................A418 Help Grandfather and MotherRestaurant ........................................A419 Mi Cho Restaurant...............................A220 Mya Than Lwin Restaurant.................A521 Peking Restaurant...............................A4Teahouse.....................................(see 12)þ Shopping22 Big Market............................................A223 Myine Yadanar Market........................B224 Zeigyi ....................................................A2ï Transport25 Boats to Bilu Kyun ...............................A226 Boats to Gaungse Kyun ...................... B127 Kyaik Hpa Nai Jetty ............................ C128 Pedestrian Jetty to Mottama..............A329 Vehicle Jetty to Mottama.................... B1Htyan Haw Chinese Temple serves the localChinese community. Of historic interestis the sturdy brick First Baptist Church (cnrHtet Lan Magyi Rd & Dawei Jetty Rd), also knownas the Judson Church; this was Myanmar’sfirst Baptist church.Gaungse Kyun (Shampoo Island) ISLANDex:='"ez"kâJn'"This picturesque little isle just off Mawlamyine’snorthern end is so named because,during the Ava period, the yearly royal hairwashingceremony customarily used watertaken from a spring on the island.You can hire a boat out here from thepier at the north end of town, not far fromthe former Mawlamyine Hotel, for K2000return. Peace rather than sights are the reasonfor venturing out here, but you can visitSandawshin Paya, a whitewash-and-silverzedi (stupa) said to contain hair relics, anda nearby Buddhist meditation centre. Manynuns, with a menagerie of pet dogs, live onthe island.4SleepingMost of Mawlamyine’s accommodation is aK1000 motorcycle taxi ride from the trainstation, bus station or boat pier.oCinderella Hotel HOTEL $$(%24411; www.cinderellahotel.com; 21 Baho Rd;s/d/tr $18/30/40; aiW) Where else couldyou afford to stay in the nicest place intown? This shockingly purple structure hasnumerous and capable staff who look afterhuge rooms with heaps of amenities: 24-hour electricity, TV, air-con, wi-fi and a hugefridge stuffed with junk food.Breeze Guest House BUDGET HOTEL $(Lay Hnyin Tha; %21450; breeze.guesthouse@gmail.com; 6 Strand Rd; s $6-12, d $16; a) Therooms aren’t much but the Breeze, an attractive,blue, colonial-style villa on StrandRd, produces its charms in other ways. Thestaff are an endless source of information,pleasant conversation and superb guidingskills. Try to snag one of the more expensiverooms, which are quite spacious and havelarge, modern bathrooms with air-con.Attran Hotel HOTEL $$(%25764; Strand Rd; r $25-60; a) Overlookingthe sultry river waters, the Attran is suitablyreminiscent of a beach resort. Tour groupsenjoy the series of orderly bungalows spreadacross the green pastures. It’s exceptionallyfriendly and helpful, but there is no gettingaway from the fact that it’s a little overpriced.The hotel restaurant, on a deck by the riverand lit up at night, is a nice place to eat.Sandalwood Hotel HOTEL $$(%27253; 278 Myoma Tadar St; r $15-35; a) Amodern and clean multi-storey hotel, convenientlylocated near the town’s attractions,restaurants and internet cafés. Communicatingin English can be problematic99MON SOUTHEASTERN STATE SLEEPINGMYANMAR SLEEPINGMAWLAMYINE (MOULMEIN)

100SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATEif the friendly English-speaking owner isn’taround.Ngwe Moe Hotel HOTEL $$(%24703; cnr Kyaikthoke Paya & Strand Rd; s/d$27/36; a) The three-storey Ngwe Moe onStrand Rd is frequented by groups. Therooms are fresh and comfortable but lackcharacter.Aurora Guest House HOTEL $(%22785; 277 South Bogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); r$5-18; a) The more expensive rooms in thisrather dark and dreary budget hotel have aprivate bathroom and air-con; others onlyhave a fan and a shared bathroom. Breakfastis not included.5EatingFor a city of this size, the eating options arescarce. The Attran Hotel and Ngwe MoeHotel have restaurants that serve lunch anddinner. An atmospheric teahouse (SouthBogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); snacks from K400;h6am-6pm) near the Aurora Guest Houseserves good tea and snacks.oBeer Garden 2 BEER GARDEN $(58 Strand Rd; meals from K3000; hdinner) Ignorethe misleading English-language menuthey’ll dust off for foreigners and insteadhead straight for the barbecued snacks:these guys are truly talented grillers. Simplypoint to select your vegies and proteins fromthe refrigerators and staff will slather themwith a delicious, spicy sauce and grill themfor you. Couple your skewers with a glassof what must be the coldest draught beerin Myanmar, and you’ve got Mawlamyine’sbest meal.Mi Cho Restaurant MUSLIM, BURMESE $(North Bogyoke Rd; meals from K1500; hlunch& dinner) This busy hole in the wall, a shortwalk from Attran Hotel, serves excellentMuslim-style Myanmar cuisine, in particulara rich biryani and a delicious dhal soup.Worth the walk.Mya Than LwinRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(Dawei jetty, Strand Rd; mains from K2000; hallday) This restaurant, in what appears to bea former warehouse, is now a popular hangout.You can dine on the wooden plankedfloor outside and feel like you’re on a boatat sea or in the smokier, and more bar-like,indoors. There’s an extensive menu of soups,chicken and seafood, including an abundanceof shrimp- and prawn-based dishes.Help Grandfather and MotherRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Strand Rd; mains from K500; hall day) Doeswhat it says on the label; the money raisedhere goes to a charity helping the town’s elderly.If that weren’t reason enough to eathere, it’s also a delightful waterfront restaurantin its own right and absolutely theplace to watch the sunset with a cup of tea.The sign is written in Burmese only; lookfor silhouettes of old people walking withcanes.Chan Thar Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(4 Myoma Tadar St; mains from K2000; hall day)You could easily mistake this restaurant fora cinema and walk right on past. The sweetand sour stir-fry is unusually good and thechef can even whip up a mean fruit salad.There’s beer and conversations on tap anda TV tuned to the UK premiership football.Peking Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(235 South Bogyoke Rd (Lower Main Rd); mainsfrom K3000; hlunch & dinner) Despite thename, this isn’t the place to go for northernChinese specialties. Rather, they do an acceptable,if somewhat overpriced and greasytake on Chinese-Burmese standards.7 ShoppingMawlamyine has a number of busy marketsincluding the Zeigyi (central market),the Big Market and the even biggerMyine Yadanar Market. Though localsdistinguish between all of them, you probablywon’t as they virtually meld into oneanother and you’ll be too engrossed in themelange of smells, sights and tastes to careanyway.8InformationA police station is located over the road from thegovernment jetties. The post offi ce is a couple ofblocks further inland.Grace Internet Cafe (South Bogyoke Rd (LowerMain Rd); per hr K500; h9am-10pm) Not entirelyreliable internet connections are availableat this shop in the centre of town. There are acouple of similar places in the area.8Getting There & AwayAirMyanma Airways fl y to Yangon ($30) and Myeik(Mergui; $65) every Sunday at 7am, although

BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION FARE (K) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE TYPEYangon 5100 8 8am, 9am, 7pm, 7.30pm air-con busesBago510068am, 9am, 7pm, 7.30pmair-con busesKyaikto 5100 4 8am, 9am, 7pm, 7.30pm air-con busesHpa-an105026am-4pmnon-air-con-busesfl ights are anything but consistent. Tickets canbe purchased at the Myanma Airways office(%21500, 09-871 8220; h9am-3pm), locatedin a colonial-era building (no English-languagesign) behind the park on Baho Rd.BoatDouble-decker ferries leave from the KyaikHpa Nai Jetty in Mawlamyine at 12.30pm onMondays and Fridays for the trip up the ThanlwinRiver to Hpa-an ($2, at least fi ve hours).For boats from Hpa-an, see p 107 .BusFor information about reaching Mawlamyineby bus from Yangon, see p 70 . It’s worth notingthat if you are coming from Yangon on anevening or night bus you will have the pleasureof getting to the edge of the bridge linkingMawlamyine with the north only to fi nd that youhave to wait until dawn before being allowedto cross! If you happen to be reading this bitwhile you’re on the night bus, well, don’t getdisheartened – it’s only another fi ve hours untildaybreak…TrainFor trains from Yangon, see p 71 .Foreigners travelling south by train are allowedonly as far as Ye, due to insurgency in the area.Trains from Mawlamyine:YANGON Ordinary $5 to $7, upper $14 to $16;nine hours; departures 6am, 8.15am, 11.25am.BAGO Ordinary $5 to $8, upper $7 to $10; sixhours; 6am, 8.15am, 11.25am.KYAIKTO Ordinary $3 to $5, upper $6 to $7;four to five hours; 6am, 8.15am, 11.25am8Getting AroundMOTORCYCLE TAXI AND TRISHAW Themain form of public transport around the city,most found on South Bogyoke Rd (Lower MainRd) in front of Zeigyi (short trips, K500; longerjourneys, K800). Motorcycle taxi from train/busstation to town costs K1000.CHEVY TRUCK Old WWII-era American styleand used as a minibus. for the town and itsenvirons. From the train/bus station into town(K150).Around MawlamyineIf you’re finding Mawlamyine a bit toosleepy, you’ll be delighted to find that thetown functions a great base for a variety ofday trips.Many people save themselves time andhassle by hiring a car (K45,000 per day) andguide ($12) for two or three days in order toexplore fully. The best place to organise thisis through the Breeze Rest House, where MrAntony and Mr Khaing are both highly informedand entertaining guides.BILU KYUN.IlU"kâJn'"Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island) isn’t quite as scary asit sounds. Rather than a hideaway for nastymonsters, it’s a fascinating self-containedMon island directly east of Mawlamyine. Itcomprises 64 villages linked by rutted dirttracks that promise adventure.Some of the villages on this large island areinvolved in the production of coconut fibrematsand even coconut-inspired and createdcutlery and teapots. You can spend an interestingday exploring by taking the daily ferry($1) at 9.45am and 10.45am from the pierat the northern end of Strand Rd. Once onthe island, all local transport is by horse andcart, though the more distant villages can belinked by one of the few rattling buses.To get back to Mawlamyine you mustbe at Nut-Maw village by 3pm in order tocatch the final ferry back to town. Foreignersare not allowed to stay overnight on theisland (that’s when the ogres come out toget you) and, in order to keep things runningsmoothly, it’s a good idea to go with MrAntony or Mr Khaing at Breeze Rest House.They charge $12 for the tour, which typicallyruns from 9am to 5pm.MON SOUTHEASTERN STATE 8MYANMAR 8 AROUND MAWLAMYINE

102SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR MON STATENORTH OF MAWLAMYINE1Sights & ActivitiesNwa-la-bo PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLENâ;"l.iu¾etC='.urC"In the jungle-cloaked hills to the north ofMawlamyine the Tolkienesque side of thecountry comes to life in an extraordinaryfashion at the Nwa-la-bo Pagoda. A localpilgrimage site, Nwa-la-bo is still relativelyunknown outside Mon State and, currently,very few foreigners make it out here. This issurprising because the pagoda is a smallerbut, geologically at least, far more astonishingversion of Kyaiktiyo. Unlike at thatshrine, where just one huge boulder percheson the cliff ledge, Nwa-la-bo consists of threesausage-shaped gold boulders piled precariouslyatop one another and surmountedby a stupa. The result is lifted straight fromthe fairytale world of Middle Earth or couldit possibly be that Middle Earth is actuallylifted straight from the fairytale world of theBurma of old?8Getting There & AwayGetting to Nwa-la-bo is fairly easy (except duringthe rainy season when it can’t be reached) andmakes a perfect half-day trip from town. Try to goon a weekend when pilgrims will add more fl air tothe scene and transport is a little more regular.Bus & Pick Up TruckFrom Mawlamyine you’ll have to wait at theroundabout before the bridge for a northboundbus or pick-up to Kyonka village (K600), locatedaround 12 miles north of town. From here clamberinto the back of one of the pick-up trucksthat crawl slowly up to the summit of the mountain(K1600 return) in 45 minutes. Allow plentyof time as the trucks don’t leave until beyondfull, and don’t leave your descent too late in theday as transport becomes scarcer after 3pm.Alternatively, motorcycle taxis will do the tripfor K7000.SOUTH OF MAWLAMYINE1Sights & ActivitiesPa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery BUDDHIST MONASTERYf;"ea;k'etCr.un'"äkI"ekY;='"(%22853; www.paauk.org) Only 9 miles southof Mawlamyine, the monastery teaches satipatthanavipassana (insight-awarenessmeditation) and, at 500 acres, is one of thelargest meditation centres in Myanmar.Foreigners can visit for the night or severaldays; sleeping and eating is gratis.Win Sein Taw YaBUDDHAIf you thought you’d seen some big old buddhas,just wait till you get a load of this one.Draped across a couple of green hillsides atYadana Taung, and surrounded by a forestof other pagodas and shrines, is this recentlyconstructed, 560ft-long reclining buddha.It’s easily one of the largest such images inthe world.Many other stupas and standing buddhasdot the area, including 500 statues lining theroad to the Win Sein Taw Ya. Aside from inflatedbuddhas, the area affords some gentlewalks with wonderful panoramas.Every year around the first couple of daysof February a crazy coloured festival takesplace here to celebrate the birthday of themonk who constructed the buddha. As wellas a host of itinerant traders, monks andnuns, magic men and the odd hermit or two,the festival often hosts a major kickboxingtournament, which leads to the slightly surrealsight of hundreds of cheering monksbaying for blood in the ring!Kyauktalon TaungBUDDHIST MONUMENTekY;k'tc'lu®"etC='Kyauktalon Taung is a strangely shaped,sheer-sided crag rising out of the surroundingagricultural land and crowned withstupas. It’s a sticky 20-minute climb to thesummit. On the opposite side of the road is asimilar but smaller outcropping surmountedby a Hindu temple.KandawgyiLAKEkn'etC'äkI"This lake formed by Azin Dam (a waterstorage and flood-control facility that’s alsoused to irrigate local rubber plantations)also boasts a tidy recreation area and is afavourite picnic spot with locals – don’t missthe buthi kyaw, tasty deep-fried gourd, soldhere. At the northern end of the lake standsthe gilded stupa of Kandawgyi Paya.ThanbyuzayatHISTORICAL SITEs®¨fBjrp'Thanbyuzayat (Tin Shelter), 40 miles southof Mawlamyine, was the western terminusof the infamous Burma–Siam Railway,dubbed the ‘Death Railway’ by the thousandsof Allied prisoners of war (POWs) andAsian coolies who were forced by the Japanesemilitary to build it.About a mile south of the town centre’sclock tower, a locomotive and piece of trackcommemorating the railway are on display.

There also used to be a WWII museum, butthe government let it turn to ruin as, accordingto one local, ‘They do not even want usto remember this history.’Half a mile west of the clock tower towardsKyaikkami, on the southern side ofthe road, lies the Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery.This lonely site contains 3771 gravesof Allied POWs who died building the railway.Most of those buried were British butthere are also markers for American, Dutchand Australian soldiers. As you walk aroundthis simple memorial, maintained by theCommonwealth War Graves Commission,reading the heart-rending words inscribedon the gravestones it’s impossible not to bemoved to the brink of tears.Some are simple and state only that ‘Oneday we will understand’, which of course wenever did. Others are personal messages oflove and remembrance, such as: ‘I waited,but you did not come. Life was cruel to us.Dorothy’ – GE Wright, died age 28.Daw Pu (hbreakfast & lunch), a Burmeserestaurant located across from the pickup-truckstand, west of the clock tower, is agood place to eat.8Getting There & AwayBus & Pick-Up TruckHop on a bus or pick-up from the eastern side ofzeigyi (Mawlamyine’s main market) heading in thedirection of Mudon (K1000, 45 minutes) and askto be dropped at the junctions for any of the aboveplaces (with the exception of Thanbyuzayat). Noteyou will have to pay the full fare to Mudon.THE DEATH RAILWAYFor Thanbyuzayat there are six departures(K1000, two hours) from the east side of zeigyi,all before noon. As there is no legal lodging inThanbyuzayat, start early so you can catch thelast bus back to Mawlamyine at 3pm.KYAIKKAMIkYŸik'xmILocated 5.5 miles northwest of Thanbyuzayat,Kyaikkami was a small coastal resort and missionarycentre known as Amherst during theBritish era. Adoniram Judson (1788–1850), anAmerican missionary and linguist who haspractically attained sainthood among MyanmarBaptists, was sailing to India with his wifewhen their ship was blown off course, forcingthem to land at Kyaikkami. Judson stayedon and established his first mission here; theoriginal site is now a Catholic school on asmall lane off the main road.The town is an atmospheric seaside destination,although you’ll probably not do anyswimming at the rocky and rather muddybeach. Instead, the main focus is Yele Paya,a metal-roofed Buddhist shrine complexperched over the sea and reached via a longtwo-level causeway; the lower level is submergedduring high tide. Along with 11 Buddhahair relics, the shrine chamber beneathYele Paya reportedly contains a buddha imagethat supposedly floated here on a raftfrom Sri Lanka in ancient times (see ThihoshinPhondaw-pyi on p 76 for more detailson this legend). A display of 21 Mandalaystylebuddha statues sits over the spot wherethe Sinhalese image is supposedly buried.The strategic objective of the ‘Burma–Siam Railway’ was to secure an alternative supplyroute for the Japanese conquest of Myanmar and other Asian countries to the west.Construction on the railway began on 16 September 1942 at existing terminals inThanbyuzayat and Nong Pladuk, Thailand. At the time, Japanese engineers estimatedthat it would take five years to link Thailand and Burma by rail, but the Japanese armyforced the POWs to complete the 260-mile, 3.3ft-gauge railway in 13 months. Much ofthe railway was built in difficult terrain that required high bridges and deep mountaincuttings. The rails were finally joined 23 miles south of the town of Payathonzu (ThreePagodas Pass); a Japanese brothel train inaugurated the line. The railway was in use for21 months before the Allies bombed it in 1945.An estimated 16,000 POWs died as a result of brutal treatment by their captors, astory chronicled by Pierre Boulle’s book Bridge on the River Kwai and popularised by amovie based on the book. Only one POW is known to have escaped, a Briton who tookrefuge among pro-British Kayin guerrillas.Although the statistics of the number of POWs who died during the Japanese occupationare horrifying, the figures for the labourers, many from Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysiaand Indonesia, are even worse. It is thought that 80,000 Asians, 6540 British, 2830Dutch, 2710 Australians and 356 Americans died in the area.103MON SOUTHEASTERN STATE 8MYANMAR 8 AROUND MAWLAMYINE

104SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR KAYIN STATEPilgrims standing at the water’s edge placeclay pots of flowers and milk into the sea inorder to ‘feed’ the spirits.The only accommodation in town is KadayKywe Guest Villa (%75019; Bogyoke Rd;r 50,000, without bathroom K6000; a). A shortwalk from Yele Paya, this hotel has tidy butoverpriced air-con rooms with attachedbathrooms, while the shared bathrooms arelittle more than fan-cooled closets. There’sa basic restaurant directly across the street.During the early half of the day there arepick-up trucks to Kyaikkami from Thanbyuzayatfor K500 per person. From Mawlamyine,a Kyaikkami-bound bus (K1050, 2½ hours)leaves from the Thanbyuzayat stop near themarket.SETSE BEACHck'cENot a picture postcard beach by any stretchof the imagination, but as the grime of travelwashes away you probably won’t care. Thislow-key Gulf of Mottama (Martaban) beachis a very wide, brown-sand strip. The beachis lined with waving casuarina trees and hasbeen a popular spot for outings since colonialtimes. Though a few locals stop by fora swim, almost no foreigners visit this areaand facilities are minimal. At low tide youcan walk along the beach to the small templeon the rocks at the northern end.You can stay at the privately owned ShweMoe Guesthouse (%09-870 3283; r $20),which has spacious but run-down beachbungalows. A few modest restaurants offerfresh seafood, including the Pyay Son OoRestaurant, which is very close to the hotel.Pick-ups run between Setse and Thanbyuzayaton a fairly frequent basis (K500). Thelast one leaves for Thanbyuzayat at 4pm.EAST OF MAWLAMYINEKYAIKMARAWkYŸik'mer;This small, charming town of wooden houseslined with flowering plants, 15 miles southeastof Mawlamyine, is the site of an importanttemple. Yet more impressive than thetemple is the drive to get there, which passesthrough bright green rice fields studded withsugar palms and picturesque villages.Kyaikmaraw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEkYŸik'mer;.urC"The pride of the town is this temple of serene,white-faced buddhas built by QueenShin Saw Pu in 1455. Among the temple’smany outstanding features are multicolouredglass windows set in the outsidewalls, an inner colonnade decorated in mirroredtiles, and beautiful ceramic tile floors.Painted reliefs appear on the exterior of severalauxiliary buildings.Covered brick walkways lead up to andaround the main square sanctuary in typical15th-century Mon style. The huge mainbuddha image sits in a ‘European pose’,with the legs hanging down as if sitting ona chair, rather than in the much more commoncross-legged manner. A number ofsmaller cross-legged buddhas surround themain image, and behind it are two recliningbuddhas. Another impressive feature is thecarved and painted wooden ceiling.8Getting There & AwayBUS Buses nip between the eastern side of zeigyi(Mawlamyine’s main market) and Kyaikmarawevery hour during the daylight hours for K800.KHA-YON CAVESxru®8UUSpirited away in the back of the little-known,dark and dank Kha-Yon Caves, a short wayalong the road to Hpa-an, are rows of ghostlybuddha statues and wall paintings that comelurching out of the dark as the light from atorch catches them. Close by is another, smaller,cave system. This one is more of an opencavern and contains further statues, as well asa small cave-dwelling stupa. Bring a torch orbuy candles from the stall near the entrance.The statues and shrines in these cavesmake for a popular stop for local touristsand pilgrims alike. There is something unnervingabout stumbling upon a meditatingmonk sitting in utter darkness at the foot ofa cobweb-stained shrine.To get here from Mawlamyine, head tothe bus station and take any bus towardsHpa-an (K1050, 10 departures between 6amand 4pm) and ask to be dropped at the junctionfor the caves.KAYIN STATEThe limestone escarpments and luminouspaddy fields, coupled with a fascinatingethnic mix, would make Kayin State(kr='¨p–'ny''') a Myanmar highlight butsadly, like so much of the nation’s borderregions, much of the area is very much offlimits to foreign visitors.

THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT105Mae Sot is – at least when things are calm – a legal border crossing to Myanmar. Yet aswith all of Myanmar’s land crossings, the situation is volatile and, on our visit, the borderwas firmly shut due to fighting between the Myanmar Armed Forces and splinter groupsof the Democratic Karen Buddhist Army (DKBA). Even when the border eventually doesreopen, it’s possible to cross only from Thailand to Myanmar, and like other land crossingpoints, visits are restricted to a limited number of days within a limited area, you have toleave your passport at the border and you’re expected return the same way you came in.If things change by the time you read this, immigration procedures are taken care of atthe Thai immigration booth (%Thailand 0 5556 3000; h6.30am-6.30pm) at the FriendshipBridge. It takes a few minutes to finish all the paperwork to leave Thailand officially,and then you’re free to walk across the arched 420m Friendship Bridge.At the other end of the bridge is the Myanmar immigration booth, where you’ll fillout permits for a one-day stay, pay a fee of US$10 or 500B and leave your passport as adeposit. Then you’re free to wander around Myawadi, as long as you’re back at the bridgeby 5.30pm Myanmar time (which is half an hour behind Thai time) to pick up your passportand check out with immigration. On your return to Thailand, the Thai immigrationoffice at the bridge will give you a new 15-day visa.Myawadi is a fairly typical Burmese town, with a number of monasteries, schools,shops and so on. The most important temple is Shwe Muay Wan, a traditional bellshapedpaya gilded with many kilos of gold and topped by more than 1600 preciousand semiprecious gems. Another noted Buddhist temple is Myikyaungon, named forits crocodile-shaped sanctuary. A hollow pagoda at Myikyaungon contains four marbleMandalay-style buddhas around a central pillar, while niches in the surrounding wall arefilled with buddhas in other styles, including several bronze Sukhothai-style buddhas.Myawadi’s thousand-year-old earthen city walls, probably erected by the area’s originalMon inhabitants, can be seen along the southern side of town.For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downloadablePDF of the Northern Thailand chapter from Lonely Planet’s Thailand guide.Ever since Myanmar attained independencefrom the British in 1948, the Karenhave been embroiled in a fight for autonomy.The struggle continues today, and issaid to be the word’s longest-running internalconflict. The main insurgent body,the Karen National Union (KNU), controlsparts of the northern and eastern parts ofthe state, although recent Yangon militaryvictories have left the KNU and its militarycomponent, the Karen National LiberationArmy (KNLA), severely weakened. In 2010the KNU aligned with five other insurgentarmies and, as recently as 2011, parts of thestate, particularly those near the Thai border,still remain a battleground.Some parts of Kayin State are possible tovisit, though, including Hpa-an, the regionalcapital, an easy and highly recommended tripfrom Mawlamyine or Yangon. Kayin State itself,homeland to around a million Karen,has probably received more foreign visitors,who have crossed over – unofficially – fromThailand, than from other parts of Myanmar.Many international volunteers have venturedinto the frontier area to assist with refugeeconcerns.Hpa-anf;"a®%058 / POP C50,000Though Hpa-an has only a limited numberof official tourist attractions, the atmosphereis energetic and the colours on the streetsrich and vibrant. The real draw is in the surroundingcountryside, which contains artgalleries housed in caves, sacred mountainsand cloud-scraping islands. In addition tothis, the boat trip between Hpa-an and Mawlamyineis a gentle cruise through rural bliss.1Sights & ActivitiesThe town of Hpa-an itself is of limited interest.The town’s vibrant Morning Market isfun to explore and Shweyinhmyaw Pagoda,down by the waterfront, is a good place fromwhich to watch the world sail on by. Somemight also describe the central Clock TowerKAYIN SOUTHEASTERN STATE SIGHTS MYANMAR & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS HPA-AN & ACTIVITIES

106Hpa-an #e1ATo Hpan Pu‚# f Boats ToMountain (1mi) Hpan PuMountain# Ú2Jetty: Boats# f# ÿ 3to Mawlamyine6#ÿBThida St0 400 m0 0.2 milesCD1SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR KAYIN STATEThanlwin RiverBogyoke StMyint Lay St# Ú2# ñ›#14# ÿ5# ð4 # ÿ›#13# ú # ú 108 12 ›##á Clock# ð Tower›#31566HighSchoolABCas a ‘sight’ at night when it’s lit up like a gaudylollipop – it’s certainly memorable.If you’re bound for Mawlamyine andyou’ve got the time, consider taking one oftwo weekly ferries from Hpa-an. It’s worththe trip if only because this dirt-cheap riverboatpasses through stunning scenery oflimestone mountains and sugarcane fields.It’s not usually crowded and there are a fewsun chairs, perfect front-row seats for theriver show. Bring your own food and drinks.For details on the trip, see p 107 .Kannar St66#4SleepingOptions are fairly limited in Hpa-an and,unless you have your own transport, you’rerelegated to the cheaper places in town thatinspire little to write home about.oSoe Brothers Guesthouse HOTEL $(%21372; 2/146 Thitsar St; s/d $10/14, withoutbathroom $5/10) This is an excellent backpackers’choice and though the basic roomshere don’t have much space in which tostretch, they are clean and cool and the communalbathrooms are kept ship-shape. Thetwo ‘luxury’ rooms have a bit more spaceand no queues for the toilet. There are lots ofwelcoming communal areas to relax or chat.Phoekhwarr, one of the eponymous SoeThitsar StMosque#ß#æ 1Ohn Taw St# û 117 # ú# ÚBogyokeStZaydan StPaya St#òPa Don Mar St9#úBrothers, in addition to being a great guide,has put together maps of the town and environsand is very tuned in to travellers’ needs.Hotel Zwegabin HOTEL $$(%22556; Hpa-an-Mawlamyine Rd; r $30-50; a)Located about 4 miles outside Hpa-an alongthe road to Mawlamyine, this hotel boasts apark-like atmosphere in a stunning locationat the foot of limestone karsts and facing MtZwegabin. The best rooms are the very spaciousduplex bungalows with balconies takingin the view, while the cheapies are in atwo-storey condo-like bloc. All in all, not badvalue but not a very convenient place to stayif you don’t have your own wheels.Parami Motel HOTEL $$(%21647; cnr Ohn Taw St & Paya St; s/d $26/28;a) Large and comfortable rooms that comewith satellite TV and hot-water bathroomsmake this an ideal midrange rest stop. Thefriendly staff don’t speak much English andaren’t as foreigner savvy as the Soe Brothers.Nevertheless, in comparison to that hotelthe Parami is the last word in luxury.Grand Hill Hotel HOTEL $$(%22286; Sin Phyu Shin St; s/d $25/35; a) Thishotel takes the form of a suburban compoundwith cosy pink and white bunga-D23

Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...................................C22 Shweyinhmyaw Pagoda...................... B1ÿ Sleeping3 Golden Sky Guest House .................... B14 Parami Motel........................................C25 Soe Brothers Guesthouse ..................C26 Tiger Hotel............................................ B1ú Eating7 Khit-Thit Restaurant............................C28 New Day ...............................................B39 San Ma Tau MyanmarRestaurant ........................................D310 White ....................................................C3û Drinking11 Lucky 1..................................................C2ï Transport12 Bus Ticket Stalls ..................................C313 Buses to Mawlamyine .........................C214 Pick-ups To Eindu................................C215 Pick-ups to Mt Zwegabin ...................C3lows chock full of amenities (air-con, TV,fridge, hot water). They’re comfortable andnew, with more rooms being added at researchtime, but the hotel’s location, about2 miles east of the clock tower, isn’t exactlyconvenient.Tiger Hotel HOTEL $$(%21392; cnr Myint Lay St & Thida St; r $25; a)Located near the jetty to Mawlamyine, thisis a modern four-storey hotel with clean butrather musty rooms that aren’t particularlygood value.Golden Sky Guest House BUDGET HOTEL $(%21510; 2 Thida St; s/d $15/20; a) Also locatedmere steps from the jetty, the rooms here arelarge and clean, but the multicolour mishmashof tiles, furniture and furnishings isnot particularly attractive. Staff can hardlybe described as friendly.5Eating & DrinkingAs with hotels, the selection of restaurantsis limited.oSan Ma Tau MyanmarRestaurant BURMESE $(1/290 Bogyoke St; meals from K2000; hlunch& dinner) This local institution is one of ourfavourite restaurants anywhere in the country.The friendly and popular place servesan almost overwhelming variety of excellentcurries, soups and stir-fries, all served withfresh vegies and herbs and several types ofspicy balachaung (chilli-based dips). Therestaurant also doubles as an internet cafe.White TEAHOUSE $(cnr Thitsar St & Bogyoke St; snacks from K200;hbreakfast & lunch) This teahouse, locatednear the clock tower, serves decent tea andfreshly baked naan – great for breakfast.New Day CAFE $(3/624 Bogyoke St; drinks from K600; hbreakfast& lunch) This modern cafe features real coffee,tasty fruit shakes and a variety of bakedgoods.Khit-Thit Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(New Age Restaurant; Zaydan St; mains from K800;hlunch & dinner) A typical mixed Burmeseand Chinese menu in a quiet backstreetrestaurant.Lucky 1 CHINESE, BURMESE $(Zaydan St; mains from K800; hlunch & dinner)This grubby place is the closest thing Hpaanhas to a bar and, in addition to draughtbeer, also serves decent Chinese-style dishes.8InformationThe post office is on a side road off Bogyoke Ston the way to the bus station.Frustratingly slow internet connections areavailable at San Ma Tau Myanmar Restaurant(World Gate; 1/290 Bogyoke St), at the busticket stalls (clock tower) and Scare CrowInternet (Ohn Taw St); all are open from 9am to9pm and charge K500 per hour.8Getting There & AwayBoatTwice a week, double-decker ferries travel thescenic route between Hpa-an and Mawlamyine.The jetty is located near ShweyinhmyawPagoda. Because new bridges and roads havemade commuting by bus much faster and moreconvenient, only a handful of people take theferry nowadays and we reckon this particularroute is on its last legs.Boats leave Hpa-an at a very user-unfriendly5.30am on Mondays and Fridays ($2, fourhours). The predawn departure means that youwill actually miss the best of the scenery so,though the journey from Mawlamyine is longer,it’s better to use Mawlamyine as your startingpoint for this boat trip.107KAYIN SOUTHEASTERN STATE EATING MYANMAR & DRINKING EATING HPA-AN & DRINKING

108SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR KAYIN STATEHPAN PU MOUNTAINAcross the Thanlwin River from Hpa-an,Hpan Pu Mountain is a craggy, pagodatoppedpeak that can be scaled in onesweaty morning. Getting there involveshopping on one of the river crossingboats from the informal jetty (K500,every 30 minutes from 7am to 5pm) nearShweyinhmyaw Pagoda. Upon reachingthe other side, you’ll walk througha quiet village then begin the steep butrelatively short ascent to the top. Theviews of the river, the surrounding ricefields and limestone cliffs (including MtZwegabin) are astounding.For information on boats from Mawlamyine,see p 101 .Bus & Pick-Up TruckFor information on getting to Hpa-an by bus fromYangon, see p 70 .Hpa-an’s bus station is inconveniently locatedabout 4 miles north of the clock tower, buttickets can be bought and buses boarded at afew centrally located ticket stalls (clock tower).Staff at Soe Brothers can also arrange tickets.There are three daily buses to Yangon (K4000to K8000, seven to eight hours) at 7am, 8am and7pm, with stops in Kyaikto (four hours) and Bego(six hours); even if you’re getting off in these townsyou’re expected to pay the full fare to Yangon.To Mawlamyine (K1100, two hours), busesleave the bus station every hour from 6am to4pm. Every second bus makes a brief stop topick up passengers at a stand on Bogyoke St,not far from the clock tower.Pick-up trucks to Eindu (K700), which passKaw Ka Thawng Cave and terminate part ofthe way to Saddar Cave, depart from a stop onZaydan St. There’s also a single daily pick-up toMt Zwegabin (K1000, Monday to Friday) at 8am,departing from the high school.Around Hpa-anThe real highlights of the Hpa-an area areall scattered about the divine rural countrysideout of town. While most of these sightsare accessible by public transport you willneed to devote several days to them and beprepared to give your leg muscles a workout.Therefore, almost everyone takes a motorbike(or motorised trishaw) tour organisedby the Soe Brothers Guesthouse, which circumnavigatesMt Zwegabin, stopping at allthe sights mentioned below. A full day tourcosts K30,000.Some of the closer attractions can also beexplored by bicycle. Bikes can be rented atSoe Brothers (K1500 per day), who have alsoput together a good map of the surroundingarea and its attractions.Mt ZwegabinLANDMARKjEâkp='etC='Hpa-an is hemmed in by a wrinkled chain oflimestone mountains. The tallest of these isMt Zwegabin, about 7 miles south of town,which as well as being a respectable 2372ftis also a home of spirits and saintly souls.It’s a demanding two-hour hike to thesummit – up more steps than you’d care tocount – but once at the top the rewards arestaggering views, a small monastery and astupa containing, yes, you guessed it, anotherhair from the Buddha. If you arrive at thetop before noon you can take advantage of acomplimentary lunch (rice, orange and tea)and the 11am monkey feeding – differentprimates, different menus.Kaw Ka Thawng CaveCAVESek;kes;='8UMore popular among locals than travellers,this compound actually consists of threecaves, only two of which are generally open tothe public. The first cave you’ll come to, KawKa Thawng, has been quite gentrified andhas a tile floor and numerous buddha statues.Continuing along a path, you’ll pass the stairwayto another somewhat concealed cavethat’s not normally open (allegedly a monkfound a used condom here and decided tolock it). Near the end of the path, you’ll reachan inviting spring-fed swimming hole, popularwith local kids, and another water-filledcave that also serves as a swimming hole.Splitting from the path, a long bridge leadsto Lakkana Village, a picturesque Kayin village,the backdrop to which includes Mt Zwegabinand has been featured in numerousMyanmar films and videos. The countrysidehere is drop-dead gorgeous and you couldeasily spend a day walking and swimming.Kaw Ka Thawng Cave is about 7 milesfrom Hpa-an along the road to Eindu. Toget there hop on a pick-up truck to Eindu(K700) and ask to be dropped off at Kaw KaThawng Cave. Both Kawgun and Yathaypyancaves are about 7 miles from Hpa-an, and theonly public transport will leave you a good45-minute walk from the caves, so you’ll

most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk (K5000) ormotorcycle taxi (K3500) from Hpa-an.Kawgun CaveCAVEek;¾8ân'"8UU(admission K3000, camera K500) Ferreted awayin these remote southern hills is a secretgallery of Buddhist art and sculpture. The7th-century artwork of the Kawgun Caveconsists of thousands of tiny clay buddhasand carvings plastered all over the walls androof of this open cavern.Down at ground level newer buddha statuesstand and recline in various lazy positions.This gallery was constructed by KingManuaha after he was defeated in battle andhad to take sanctuary in these caves. Impressiveas it is today you can only imagine whatit was like a few years back, before a cementfactory, in its quest for limestone, started dynamitingthe nearby peaks – the vibrationscaused great chunks of the art to crash tothe floor and shatter.Yathaypyan CaveCAVEres¾¨pn'8UJust over a mile away from Kawgun Cave andbuilt by the same exiled king, is the YathaypyanCave, which is a proper cave rather thana cavern and contains several pagodas as wellas a few more clay wall carvings. If you’rethere during the dry season (approximatelyNovember to April) and have a torch you cantraverse the cave, which takes about 10 minutes,after which you’ll emerge at a viewpoint.Kyauk KalapMONASTERYekY;k'klp'Standing proud in the middle of a small, artificiallake is Kyauk Kalap, a tall finger of sheerrock mounted by one of the most unlikelypagodas in Myanmar. The rock offers greatviews of the surrounding countryside andnearby Mt Zwegabin, and is allegedly the bestplace to see the sunset over this mountain.The compound is a working monastery andis closed every day from 12pm to 1pm to allowthe monks to meditate. The 30 or so monkshere are vegetarian and free vegetarian foodis served from the temple from 9am to 5pm.The monastery is also where the highlyrespected monk U Winaya, whose solid supportof democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi iswell known in Myanmar, first resided. U Winayapassed away several years ago and hisbody was entombed in a glass case at ThamanyatKyaung, another monastery about25 miles southeast of Hpa-an. On one night inApril 2007, the monk’s body was stolen (allegedlyby soldiers) and has yet to be recovered.To get to Kyauk Kalap, you can hire a motorcycletaxi from Hpa-an (K2500) or takea motorised trishaw from Hpa-an marketarea to Kawd Kyaik village (along the roadto Mawlamyine) for K500. From there it’s aneasy 10-minute walk.The descent down the east side of themountain takes around 1½ hours, and fromthe bottom it’s another 2 miles to the mainroad from where you can catch a pick-uptruck back to town. The whole trek takesroughly six hours or about half a day.To get to the mountain, there’s a pick-up(K1000, Monday to Friday) at 8am on OhnTaw St in Hpa-an, in front of the high school.You’ll be dropped off at the Zwegabin junction,where it’s a 15-minute walk through avillage to the base of the mountain on thewest side past hundreds (1150 to be precise –don’t believe us? Get counting!) of identicalbuddha statues lined up row after row. Alternatively,a motorcycle taxi from Hpa-an to thebase of the mountain costs K2500. It’s possibleto overnight on the floor of the monasterycompound on the summit (give a healthydonation), which means you can also appreciatethe fantastic sunsets. Hiring your owntransport – someone to drop you off on oneside and pick you up on the other – makeseverything run smoother.Saddar CaveCAVEzdÌn'8UThis huge cave is simply breathtaking. As youenter the football stadium-sized cavern you’llbe greeted by (what else?) dozens of buddhastatues, a couple of pagodas and somenewer clay wall carvings, but the real treatlies beyond these relics. In absolute darkness(bring a torch; otherwise for a donation ofK3000, they’ll turn on the lights for you) youcan scramble for 15 minutes through blackchambers as high as a cathedral, truck-sizedstalactites and, in places, walls of crystal.To add to the general atmosphere, thousands,possibly hundreds of thousands, ofbats cling to the cave roof. In places thesquealing from them is deafening and theground underfoot becomes slippery withbat excrement!Emerging at the cave’s far side, the wondersonly increase and the burst of sunlightreveals an idyllic secret lake full of ducks andflowering lilies hidden in a bowl of craggypeaks. There is another cave on the far side ofthe lake that is actually half flooded, but local109KAYIN SOUTHEASTERN STATE 8MYANMAR 8 AROUND HPA-AN

110SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR TANINTHARYI (TENASSERIM) REGIONTHAILAND BORDER CROSSING: KAWTHOUNGKawthoung (also known as Victoria Point), at the far southern end of Tanintharyi (Tenasserim)Region, is a legal crossing point for foreign tourists. Yet, as with all of Myanmar’sland crossings (or, in this case, water crossings), visits are restricted to a limited numberof days within a limited area, you have to leave your passport at the border, and you’regenerally expected to return the same way you came in. We’ve received a couple reportsof travellers having entered Myanmar via Yangon and, with advance permission fromMTT, exited via Kawthoung, but the official line is that you can cross the border here andproceed onward only if you’ve already arranged a visit via Mergui Princess or AndamanClub. For details on doing this, see below.From Thailand, several travel agencies in Ranong offer ‘visa trips’ for about 400B, butthe trip is easy enough to do unassisted. Boats to Kawthoung leave the Saphan Pla pier,located about 6 miles from Ranong, regularly from 8am till 4pm (round-trip 200B, 40minutes). After getting your passport stamped by Thai immigration, board one of theboats near the immigration office and you’ll be taken to the Myanmar immigration office,where you must surrender your passport and pay a fee of $10 or 500B for a permit thatallows you to stay in Kawthoung for up to 14 days. If you decide to stay, sights includethe town’s busy waterfront (Strand Rd) and a hilltop temple, Pyi Taw Aye Paya. Yourbest bet for accommodation is the centrally located but overpriced Honey Bear Hotel(%592 1352; Strand Rd; s/d $36/48; a).It’s worth noting that, if you’re crossing at Ranong to get a fresh Thai tourist visa,they’re now limited to only 15 days.fishers occasionally paddle through the cavefor 10 minutes to yet another lake. You maybe able to persuade one to take you along.Saddar Cave can be traversed only duringthe dry season (about November to April)and is 17 miles from Hpa-an along the roadto Eindu. To get there, take a pick-up to Eindu(K700). From the village take a motorbike taxi(K3000) for the remaining 2 miles to the cave.TANINTHARYI(TENASSERIM) REGIONThe deep south of Myanmar, known as TanintharyiRegion (tns¿;rItiu='"), appears to be abeach bum’s dream. The coastline consists ofa seemingly untouched archipelago of bridalwhitebeaches, and is said to be home to over4000 islands, though British surveyors recognisedonly 804. Most are uninhabited, thougha few are home to the Moken, or ‘sea gypsies’,a nomadic seafaring people (p 312 ).Unfortunately, for all intents and purposes,visiting these beaches and islandsremains largely a dream.It's possible for independent foreigntravellers to cross by boat from Thailandto Kawthoung (see boxed text), or to takea domestic flight (on Tay Za’s Air Bagan orgovernment-owned Myanma Airways) tothe southern towns of Dawei (Tavoy), Myeik(Mergui) and Kawthoung, but once you hitthe ground you’re restricted to the city limits,defeating the purpose of visiting this beachyregion. Based on our talks with MyanmarTravels & Tours and several knowledgeabletour operators, the only generally approvedway to explore the beaches and islands ofthis region is through pre-arranged packagetours with companies that have stronggovernment ties. Alternatives include bookinga seat with Mergui Princess (www.merguiprincess.com), an outfit that runs six-daycruises from Kawthoung to Mergui, or a stayat Andaman Club (www.andamanclub.com), aluxury resort on Thahtay Kyun Island. Withadvance notice of at least four weeks, theseentities will file the required paperwork foryou, which, we’re told, can get you permissionto cross the border at Kawthoung andreceive a 28-day visa that allows you to exitthe country via Yangon.If you’re determined to see the region,but don’t want to contribute money to thoseclosely linked to the military, the only realalternative is to join a live-aboard divingtour departing from southern Thailand.Recommended outfits with experience inthe Mergui Archipelago include ColonaLiveaboards (www.diving-thailand-phuket.com),Moby Dick Adventures (www.moby-dick-adventures.com) and Sea Fun Divers (www.seafundivers.com), all operating out of Phuket.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdBagan & CentralMyanmarNyaung U . . . . . . . . . . 116Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . . 121Myinkaba . . . . . . . . . . .123New Bagan(Bagan Myothit) . . . . .124Mt Popa . . . . . . . . . . . .126Salay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128Monywa . . . . . . . . . . . .130Taungoo . . . . . . . . . . . .136Nay Pyi Taw. . . . . . . . .139Meiktila . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Pyay (Prome) . . . . . . . 143Best Places to Eat» Aroma 2 (p 118 )» Be Kind to Animals theMoon (p 122 )» Grandma Café (p 144 )» Golden Rain Tea Center(p 142 )» Maw Khan Nong (p 141 )Best Places to Stay» Hotel @ Tharabar Gate(p 122 )»Thazin Garden Hotel(p124)» Mya Yatanar Inn (p 129 )» Myanmar Beauty GuestHouse II, III & IV (p 138 )Why Go?This heartland of Bamar culture has been the location ofthree former Burmese capitals – Bagan, Pyay and Taungoo –as well as the current one, Nay Pyi Taw. Of this quartet, it’sBagan with its wondrous vista of pagodas and stupas, manydating back to the 12th century, that’s the star attraction.The tallest and most majestic of Bagan’s temples – built ofbrick, decorated inside with beautiful frescos and toppedwith gilded hti pinnacles – mix Hindu and Buddhist imageswith locally brewed nat (spirits) in nooks.Most visitors fly directly to Bagan, but central Myanmaralso provides scenic rewards for adventurous travellers. Itmay be known as the ‘dry zone’, but the region is far froma desert. Beside highways and rickety train tracks amble oxcarts through rice fields and rolling plains, all rimmed bythe Shan Mountains to the east and the snaking Ayeyarwady(Irrawaddy) River to the west, creating scenes thathark back centuries.When to GoThis area comprises the bulk of the ‘dry zone’ of Myanmar,and it remains hot and dusty for much of the year. Most visitorscome in winter (November to February), when daytimetemperatures are a relatively chilly 86°F (30°C) during theday and about 50°F (10°C) at night. From March to May,the hottest season, daytime temperatures boil at up to 109°F(43°C). Rains peak in June and October, but run throughoutthe months between. There are several temple festivals inBagan (p 158 ) and elsewhere that you may want to try andbuild your itinerary around or avoid, depending on yourinterests.

112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo BudalinAlonMonywaHpo WinDaungA MyintMyineYebyaYesagyoTo ShweboKyaukkaThanboddhayPayaTo ShweboChaung U SagaingMyinmuInwaSAGAINGREGIONMyingyanPakokkuTaungthaNyaung UOld BaganGonkorNew BaganBaganAyeyarwadyRiverSeikpyuChaukSalayChindwinn RiverMt Popa(2418ft)KyaukpadaungBodhi TataungMyingyanPlainMANDALAYREGIONMeiktilaSadaungNwa-htou gyiThaziMadayaTaungbyoneMandalayAmarapuraPaleikMandalayAirport1Saman RiverKyaukseMyittha4SHANSTATETo Hsipaw(68mi)Pyin Oo LwinMyitngeRiver0 40 km0 20 milesLawksawkTaunggyiBAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMARAyeyarwadySinbyugyun2RiverSalinYenan-gyoung2SaguMinbu Magwe2TaungdwingyiBeikthanoMAGWEREGIONYangon-BaganHighwayYangon-MandalayExpresNAY PYI TAWswayPyawbweYamethinLeweTatkonPyinmanaKalawNay Pyi TawTrain StationAungbanInleLakePinlonRAKHAINGSTATETayet2PyayShwedaungMyaydePaukkhaungThayekhittayaBAGOREGIONSittoungTo Bago (106mi);Yangon (155mi)1RiverYedasheTaungooOktwinKAYINSTATEBagan & Central Myanmar Highlights1 Watch from a hot-airballoon (p 113 ) as the sunrises or sets over the templestuddedplain of Bagan2 Hit the Ayeyarwady Riveron a Bagan–Mandalay boat(p 120 ), or on a half-day trip tonearby temples (p 165 )3 Pay respects toMyanmar’s 37 nat at theirspiritual home, the monkeyaramavolcanic mountaintoptemple at Mt Popa (p126 )4 Hang with elephants at aworking camp east of Taungoo(p 137 )5 Explore the colourfulriverside market in themorning and the hilltopShwesandaw Paya in theafternoon at Pyay (p 143 )6 Ponder what the Buddhawould have felt to see hislikeness fashioned as a30-storey concrete statue atBodhi Tataung (p 133 )

HistoryMoving armies led by various people – thePyu, the Mon, the Burmese – have swishswashedacross this central plain, the ‘heartof Myanmar’, over the centuries. The areaaround Pyay served as the Pyu capital fromthe 5th to 9th centuries AD; some considerthe Pyu to be founders of Myanmar’s ‘firstempire’, though little is known of this vanishedgroup.Bagan’s burst of energy ran two-and-ahalfcenturies, beginning in 1047 and endingas the pounding footfall of Kublai Khan’sraiders approached in 1287. See p 149 formore on Bagan’s history. The latest empireto lodge in the area is the military junta,which founded the new capital of Nay PyiTaw in 2005.8 Getting There & AwayNyaung U is the principal gateway for Bagan,with a train station, a jetty and an airport. Mostvisitors by boat come downriver from Mandalayor Pakokku. Most long-haul bus routes (egYangon–Mandalay) miss Bagan, instead stoppingat Meiktila. But there are a few direct buslinks between Bagan and Yangon, Mandalay andInle Lake. Trains to the Bagan area are slow andimpractical. The more interesting road routefrom Yangon to Bagan is via Pyay and Magwe.BAGAN%061One of Myanmar’s top attractions, the areaknown as Bagan (pug®) or, bureaucratically, asthe ‘Bagan Archaeological Zone’, occupies animpressive 26-sq-mile area 118 miles southof Mandalay and 429 miles north of Yangon.The Ayeyarwady River drifts past its northernand western sides.The area’s most active town and chieftransport hub is Nyaung U, in the northeastcorner. About 2.5 miles west, Old Bagan isthe former site of the village that moved to 2miles south to New Bagan in 1990. Betweenthe two is Myinkaba, a village boasting along-running lacquerware tradition.Connecting the towns are paved roadsmaking a 12-mile oval. In between andaround these towns, of course, is the bulk ofthe Bagan action: the plain, featuring most ofthe temples, all connected with a vast networkof bumpy dirt roads and trails. At times, you’llbe about a mile from the nearest paved road.This section includes sleeping, eating andtransport options; see p 149 for the historyand descriptions of the temples themselves.GOVERNMENT FEESAll foreign visitors to the Bagan ArchaeologicalZone are required to pay a $10entrance fee, which goes to the government.If you arrive by boat or air, thefee will be collected at the river jetty orairport. You’ll be given a credit-card-sizedplastic ticket embossed with a number,for which you’ll be asked when you checkin at nearly all accommodation. The feecovers a one-week visit, but it’s unlikelyyou’ll be asked to pay again if you staylonger. Entrance fees to the ArchaeologicalMuseum and Palace Site also go intogovernment coffers; see p 21 .2 ActivitiesBoat TripsSunset chasing in Bagan isn’t restricted tothe tops of temples. An interesting alternativeis a dusk boat trip ($10-15) on the Ayeyarwady.The hour-long tours offered bythe boat folk at the Old Bagan jetty tend tocater to package tourists, but drop by to arrangeyour own ride.You can also arrange an interesting boatand taxi side-trip to the mountaintop TanKyi Paya (see p 155 ), one of four stupas thatmarked the original edges of the city. Anotherpossible boat trip is to three templesnorth of Nyaung U (p 165 ).BallooningThe best way to truly appreciate Bagan’s sizeand sprawl is from the basket of a hot-air balloonbelonging to Balloons over Bagan (Mapp 121 ; %60058; www.balloonsoverbagan.com; officein Bagan Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort; per personstand-by rate $290). These magical 45-minuterides over one of the world’s most highly acclaimedballooning spots only run from Octoberto March. Sometimes sunrise flights arebooked up to a month or more in advance,but if there’s space, any hotel or guesthouseshould be able to arrange a ticket.The slickly run Burmese company, ownedby an Australian-Burmese couple and employingBritish pilots and some 80 locals,has five balloons that usually fit eight to 10passengers and a pilot. The experience beginswith a pick up from your hotel in oneof their fleet of lovingly restored, pre-WWIIChevrolet CMP buses partly made of teak.You can have coffee and snacks while watchingthe UK-made balloons fill with hot air,113BAGAN & ACTIVITIESCENTRAL MYANMAR ACTIVITIES

114and sparkling wine and snacks after youland and watch them get packed up again.Although sunset flights are offered (dependingon weather conditions), the sunriseones are preferable as the cooler dawn airallows pilots to fly the balloons at lower altitudefor a closer view of the temples. Seep 187 for details of the company’s balloon safarisin Shan State and Bagan.CCoursesFlavour of Myanmar Cooking Class COOKING(%09-863 5066, in Yangon 01-375 050; www.myanmarcookingclass.com; US$50) This Good NewsTravels cooking course is a half-day food-focusedexperience that can be tailored to thelevel of cooking you’re comfortable with andis interesting even for those not wanting tolearn to prepare Myanmar food. Kicking offaround 8am, participants visit New Bagan’smarket to go shopping for ingredients.Several dishes are then prepared at a fullyequipped outdoor kitchen at the cookingschool in New Bagan, with some of the foodafterwards being packed up into tiffin boxesand taken to a local monastery to presentto the monks. The morning ends with lunchback at the cooking school.Bagan Thiripyitsaya SanctuaryResortCOOKING(%60048,60049; www.thiripyitsaya-resort.com)This resort offers a variety of courses, includinga three-hour cooking course coveringfour or five traditional dishes for a maximumof four participants ($60 each). Other classesinclude a photography tour ($230; six hours)with a local professional shooter, Burmeselanguagelessons ($100; six hours), medita-BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANLEE HOOPER: HOT-AIR BALLOON PILOTBest templeDhammayangyi Pahto (p 159 ). It’s the most mysterious. You can spend hours there learningabout its history, and still learn new things.Best non-temple thing to doA sunset cruise on the river (p 113 ) can be a great way to end the day.Best shoppingTun Handicrafts/Moe Moe’s (p 126 ). Run by a lovely lady who produces good-qualitylaquerware. The range on display is just the tip of the iceberg – ask to see the specialroom, with the really nice bits. All the prices are negotiable, and Moe Moe does lots ofcharity work and generally has a good heart.Best restaurantThe Black Bamboo (p 118 ).Best nightlifeShwe Ya Su (p 119 ). It’s the only nightlife in Bagan! A great place to unwind with a coldbeer.Best place to hang out with localsSarabha III/Gyi Gyi’s (p 122 ). All the locals love eating there, which is always a good sign.The beef curry is amazing.Secret spotBagan is the country’s only producer of pon yay gyi, a black bean curd used in a lot of Myanmarcooking. It’s basically the Burmese version of Marmite or Vegemite. The factory in NyaungU, called Lucky Owl, is an amazing place to see the fascinating process, which is one ofthe most environmentally friendly I have ever seen. Peanut husks are used as fuel for cookingand the left-over beans are used as pig feed, so there are literally no waste products.Lee Hooper, Chief Pilot for Balloons over Bagan, has been flying hot-air balloons overBagan since 2003

WHERE TO STAY?115» Old Bagan (p 121 ) Closest to the big-time temples. Most of Bagan’s high-end hotelscluster in and around the riverside and the old palace walls. It’s a central location(particularly good for quick visits to Bagan), with plenty of day-time eating options, butless nightlife than Nyaung U. Doubles from $35.» New Bagan (p 124 ) Not the most charming village. However, New Bagan has by farthe best midrange choices, with excellent-value rooms from $25. There’s also a coupleof pleasant riverside restaurants.» Nyaung U (p 116 ) The budget heart of Bagan, with the liveliest restaurant scene andthe bulk of the transport connections, Nyaung U is a real town, with guesthouses from$8. On the downside it’s a 2-mile bike ride to the bulk of the temples.tion training with a monk ($45; one hour)and lacquerware painting ($90; five hours).8InformationFor travel information, try Nyaung U’s Ever SkyInformation Service (p 119 ) or the governmentrunMTT offi ce in New Bagan (p 126 ).Nyaung U and New Bagan have post offi ces.You can get online in Nyaung U, New Bagan andat select hotels.Bagan used to have two area codes. A few listingsmay still use the old %02 area code, whichwe indicate, but nearly all local numbers now usethe %061 area code.The Map of Bagan (www.dpsmap.com/bagan;K1000) is sold at most hotels and at the airport.It shows many of the area’s paths, but isn’t always100% accurate.8Getting There & AroundTo orient themselves, many visitors opt for a‘greatest hits’ tour of the temples on horse cart orby car, then follow it up by checking more remoteor lesser-known temples by bike. See also theGetting There & Away and Getting Around sectionsof Nyaung U (p 119 ), Old Bagan (p 123 ) andNew Bagan (p 126 ) for details on getting to Yangon,Inle Lake, Mandalay and other destinations.To/From the AirportTaxis between Nyaung U Airport and hotelsin Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan costK5000, K6000 and K7000 respectively. Horsecarts and taxis are cheaper from the Old Baganor Nyaung U jetties, if you arrive by boat.BicycleBikes are widely available and can be an idealway of getting around, despite the direct exposureto sun and some dirt roads that slow youup. Essentially all accommodation places rentbicycles: in Nyaung U it costs about K1500 orK2000 per day; in Old Bagan and New Bagan it’smore like K3000 or K4000 per day.Traffi c is pretty light on all roads. Early-morningor late-afternoon rides along the sealed Bagan–Nyaung U Rd are particularly pleasant. It’s worthplanning ahead a little, as the bulk of the templesin the Central Plain (p 159 ) have little shade andnowhere to get lunch. The most convenient eatingoptions are in Old Bagan (p 122 ).Horse CartA popular but uncomfortable and slow way ofseeing the ruins is from the shaded, padded bedof a horse cart. Drivers speak some English (atleast), know where to fi nd the ‘keyholders’ tolocked sites and can point out temples with fewor no tourists around. (Some might stop by ashop in the hope of securing a commission; it’sOK to say ‘no thanks’.) A cart works best for twopassengers, but it’s possible to go with three or(in a pinch) four.In Nyaung U a day with a horse cart and drivercosts about K10,000; a half-day is K5000 orK6000. It’s about K5000 more if taken from OldBagan or New Bagan.Pick-Up TrucksA pick-up (K200; hourly 7am to 3pm) runs fromoutside the Nyaung U market, ending near thejunction in New Bagan and passing Wetkyi-in,Old Bagan and Myinkaba on the way. This couldbe used to jump from one place to the next, thenwalk around the temples, particularly on theNorth Plain (p 156 ) or around Old Bagan (p 154 ).TaxiHiring a shared taxi for the day in Nyaung Ucosts about $25. Old Bagan hotels will chargeanything up to $95 to hire an unshared taxi.Hired taxis are also convenient ways of makingday trips to Mt Popa and Salay.TrishawThere’s little trishaw activity outside Nyaung U,where you can get one at the jetty or bus station;the pedal into town is around K2000.BAGAN & 8CENTRAL MYANMAR 8

116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNyaung Ue–;='wI"%061A bustling river town with more happeningthan you’ll find elsewhere in Bagan, NyaungU is where most independent travellers hangtheir hat (or backpack). Roaming the backroads towards the jetty or stopping at scrappyteashops will attract friendly wide-eyedlooks. There are a handful of temples to see,including the Shwezigon Paya (p 164 ), and alively market. Visitors staying in New or OldBagan tend to make it here, if not for therestaurant scene (the closest the Bagan areagets to nightlife) then for the transport links.Guesthouses and roadside restaurantsnow push a couple of miles west, along theroad to Old Bagan, reaching the small villageof Wetkyi-in (Giant Pig). The town wasnamed for a mythical pig that, per local legend,inhabited the lake there and killed a lotof people before being killed by a future kingof Bagan.1Sights & ActivitiesFThanakha GalleryMUSEUM, SHOP(%60179; cnr Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd & Main Rd;h9am-9pm) Claiming that it’s the ‘Only OneThanakha Gallery In the World’, this sizeable1complex has a small gallery devoted to themyriad medicinal and cosmetic uses of thethanakha tree (Limonia acidissima) – fromits roots to its bark. It has a small plantationof the trees, around which bounce a posseof cute bunny rabbits, to which you canfeed bunches of greens. Really, the place isa glorified shop for the thanakha cosmeticsof Shwe Pyi Nann (www.shwepyinann.com),as well as a good range of other Bagan and-Myanmar souvenirs. A restaurant, internetcafe and beauty salon round out the complex.Bagan Nyaung U Golf ClubGOLF(%60035; www.bagangolfresort.net/golfclub.html;green fee incl clubs & caddy $42; h6am-6pm) Justsouth of town, this government-owned facilityrun now by the Amazing Bagan Resorthas about half a dozen pagodas scatteredaround its 18-hole, par-72 course.4SleepingNyaung U’s main road has several cheap, interchangeableguesthouses (not listed below),which offer rooms for about $10. For that priceyou can expect a boxy room with a lazy ceilingfan, concrete or tiled floors and attachedbathroom with (supposedly) hot water, andsometimes even an old air-conditioning unit.Guesthouses off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd (akaRestaurant Row) are away from traffic noise.66 66 666263Wetkyi-inAAyeyarwadyRiverShwezigonPaya # Ú18 #›Zeigyo(Market)Rd)# ú12Aye NyeinTharyarPark#â 1# ú1014#û11# ú9#ï # ÿ# ú716ÿ6#66Anawrahta RdTo Bagan Princess Hotel Bagan Nyaung(0.3 mi); Golden Express Hotel UGolfClub(0.4 mi); Winner Guest House (0.4 mi)ABBagan-Nyaung U Rd (MainBC#e 0 0.25 milesDNyaung U0 500 m‚13 # û 19 To Boat#›Jetty (1 mi)#þ 15# ÿ#ÿ 4# 2017# 35 # ÿ21 6##ÿ2#ñ# ÿ 8SapadaPaya#Ú#òAnawrahta RdTo Amazing BaganResort (0.4mi);Airport (2 mi);Train Station (2.5 mi)CD‚‚#-123

All of the following include breakfast intheir rates, which may drop a dollar or threeoff-season.oNew Park Hotel HOTEL $(%60322, 60484, in Yangon 01-290073; www.newparkmyanmar.com; 4 Thiripyitsaya; s $10-20, d$14-30; ai) Perhaps the best of the bunchon the leafy backstreets off Restaurant Row,the 24-room New Park has three classes.The older rooms, with bungalow-style frontdecks, are comfortable, wood-floor set-ups,with spic-and-span bathrooms (a big upgradefrom the main-road choices). Thenewer wing gets you more space, a fridgeand a TV.Nyaung Uæ Sights1 Thanakha Gallery.................................B2ÿ Sleeping2 Eden Motel ........................................... D13 Golden Myanmar Guest House .......... D1Golden Village Inn........................ (see 3)4 Inn Wa Guest House............................ D15 May Kha Lar Guest House .................. C16 New Heaven .........................................C37 New Park Hotel ...................................C28 Thante Hotel ........................................D2ú Eating9 Aroma 2................................................C210 Black Bamboo......................................C2Pyi Wa..........................................(see 10)11 Red Pepper Diner ................................C212 San Kabar Restaurant & Pub..............C2Thante Bakery & Restaurant.....(see 12)û Drinking13 Beach Bagan Restaurant &Bar ..................................................... C114 Shwe Ya Su ..........................................B2þ Shopping15 Mani-Sithu Market............................... D1ï Information16 Ever Sky Information Service.............C2ï Transport17 Blue Sea ............................................... C118 Bus Station...........................................B219 Buses to Old Bagan............................. D120 Pick-ups to Mt Popa ............................ D121 Seven Diamond ................................... C1Sun Far ........................................(see 21)Amazing Bagan Resort RESORT $$$(%60035, in Yangon 01-297 766; www.bagangolfresort.net; s/d $55/58, ste s/d $74/83; aiWs)Formerly the Bagan Golf Resort, this pleasantlydesigned 59-room property – the nicestin Nyaung U – is now run by a Yangon-basedbusinessman. The bungalow suites in brickbuildings mimicking old Bagan architectureare best. Has nice touches, such as sun hatsin the rooms, free internet and bikes. Locatednext to the golf club.Golden Express Hotel HOTEL $$(%02-60034, 02-60381; www.goldenexpresstours.com; Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; s $21-35, d $25-44;ais) With cartoon colours and somepagodas next door, this complex featuresfour bright motel-style units. The best valueof the four classes are the superior single/double rooms ($29/34), with wood floors, abit more space and tubs. There’s a nice pool,and a big buffet breakfast is served on thegrounds.Bagan Princess Hotel HOTEL $$(%60661, in Yangon 01-222 797; www.baganprincesshotel.com; Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; r $35-40; aiWs) Built around a small pool, this curiouslydesigned new complex in Wetkyi-inoffers good rooms, all with separate Jacuzzibathrooms as well as showers in the mainbathrooms. Pay the extra $5 for upper-levelrooms, which have more light and directpool access.Thante Hotel HOTEL $$(%60315, in Yangon 01-664 424; nyaunguthante@gmail.com; Anawrahta Rd; s/d $30/40; as) Justoff the main road, this 37-room hotel offersroomy bungalows on shady grounds and hasa decent swimming pool ($3 for nonguests).The rooms are starting to show a few nicks,but they’re spacious and come with satelliteTV, twin beds, refrigerator, bathtub, woodenfloor and deckchairs on the small porch.The hotel’s staff members are very welcoming,plus it has a good bakery and restauranton site.May Kha Lar Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%60304, 60907; Main Rd; s $8-14, d $12-18;a) The best kept of the main-road budgetchoices, with lots of handy traveller infoand a shrine room! On the ground floorthe cheap, gaudily tiled rooms are compact,with air-conditioning, ceiling fan and attachedbathroom. Nicer upstairs optionshave wooden floors and TV.117BAGAN & SLEEPINGCENTRAL MYANMAR SLEEPINGNYAUNG U

118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew Heaven GUESTHOUSE $(%60921; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; s $10-12, d $15-18; a) A quick stroll from Restaurant Row,this place offers clean, compact rooms withsmall decks overlooking the peaceful lawn.The bigger, pricier rooms include a TV.Eden Motel GUESTHOUSE $(%60815, 60812; Anawrahta Rd; s/d from $8/15; a)Split in two by the busy road to the airport,Eden isn’t exactly a garden party. The roomsin the newer Eden Motel II have bigger, tiledrooms and an over-touted bathtub, but weprefer the ones in the original – particularlythe ones with all-bamboo walls and hardwoodfloors. The friendly management told us they‘have an idea’ to upgrade all the rooms.Inn Wa Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%60902, 60849; Main Rd; s $8-10, d $13-15; a) Ifyou just need a cheap bed, this three-floor,16-room choice near the market works, offeringminigolf-green carpets in boxy roomsand simple attached bathrooms with hotwater. Rooms 206 and 306 have more windowlight (and less street noise). Breakfastis served on the open roof deck. Advancebooking gets you a free transfer from yourpoint of arrival.Winner Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%61069; Main Rd, Wetkyi-in; s $5-7, d $7-10; a) Ifmoney’s tight, opt for this little family-runguesthouse on the road to Old Bagan. Thecheapest rooms share the common bathroom.Simple concrete-floor rooms with anair-conditioning unit and tiled bathroom attachedare just as good as the cheapies intown. Other pluses are that it’s nearer thetemples, and there are appealing roadsiderestaurants around.Golden MyanmarGuest House GUESTHOUSE $(%60901, 09-204 2064; www.goldenmyanmarguesthouse.com; Main Rd; s $7-8, d $11-15; a)More bare-bone than its neighbour Inn Wa,with the cheaper rooms sharing a commonbathroom. Go with room 108: it’s got morelight and has direct access to the roof deck,where breakfast is served.Golden Village Inn GUESTHOUSE $(%60921; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; s $8-10, d $12-16; a) Behind New Heaven (and with thesame owners), the Village is another shadyspot near the restaurant strip, with comfortablebungalow-style rooms. Higher-pricedrooms have TV, desk and tub.5Eating & DrinkingNyaung U’s Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd (aka RestaurantRow) is a strip of atmospheric openaireateries geared towards foreign visitors.It’s touristy, but easily the hub(bub) of Baganaction. Many of the restaurants are copycats,with similar ‘everything goes’ menus(Chinese, Burmese, Thai, Indian, pizza and‘Western’ options).oAroma 2 INDIAN $$(Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; dishes K2000-7000; h11am-9pm or 10pm) ‘No good – no pay’ is the mantraof this justifiably confident operation servingdelish vegie and meat curries on bananaleaves (or plates) with an endless stream ofhot chapattis and five dollops of condiments(including tamarind and mint sauces). Ifyou order one day in advance, it can alsowhip up various biryani rice dishes.oBlack Bamboo EUROPEAN $$(%09-650 1444; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; dishesK3500-6000; h9am-9.30pm) Run by a Frenchwoman and her Burmese husband, thisgarden-set café and restaurant is somethingof an oasis: a lovely place to relax over a decentsteak and chips, a well-made espressoor delicious homemade ice cream. Service isfriendly but leisurely.Red Pepper Diner THAI, EUROPEAN $$(%09-4926 0229; cnr Anawrahta Rd & Thirpyitsaya3 St; meal K4000-12,000; h11am-3pm, 6-10pm)Serving a broad range of Thai dishes, freshlymade with an authentic spicy kick, this yellowhouse takes a stab at sophistication withsilky pillows on concrete benches in a courtyardfacing the main road.San Kabar Restaurant & Pub ITALIAN $$(Main Rd; pizza K4000-6000, salads K1500-2700;h7am-10pm) Famous as the birthplace ofBagan pizza, the San Kabar’s streetside candlelitcourtyard is all about its thin-crustedpies and well-prepared salads.Pyi Wa BAMAR, INTERNATIONAL $$(Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; noodles & dishes K1500-3000; h7am-9pm or 10pm) Slightly less stylishthan some, but Pyi Wa is the operation onRestaurant Row with a Bagan-era zedi (stupa)as a neighbour – staff light up its base atnight. The best dishes are Chinese, but dostart off with the ‘potato cracken’ (fried potatowedges that go particularly well with abottle of Myanmar Beer).

TRANSPORT OPTIONS TO BAGAN119The following table provides a quick comparison of the various ways of getting to NyaungU from Yangon and MandalayTO/FROM YANGON DURATION COST FREQUENCYAir70min $82-856-8 flights dailyBoat6 days $18-36weeklyBus11hrK15,000dailyCar 10hr $80 n/aTrain 16hr $30-50 dailyTO/FROM MANDALAY DURATION COST FREQUENCYAir 30min $38-40 6 dailyBoat (slow)2 days $102 weeklyBoat (fast)11hr $362-4 times weeklyBoat (luxury cruise)2 days $280weeklyBus7-8hrK65002 dailyCar 7hr $80 n/aTrain 8hr $5-10 dailyShwe Ya Su BEER STATION $$(Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; dishes K1500-3000; h7am-10.30pm) Since this place started sellingdraught Myanmar Beer (look for the illuminatedsign outside), it’s become quite thelocal hangout. It’s a pleasant spot to revivewith twinkling fairy lights hanging from thetrees and tasty barbecued-pork snacks.Beach Bagan Restaurant & Bar PAN-ASIAN $$(12 Youne Tan Yat; dishes K4000-8000; h8am-9pm)Signs lead past backstreets from the NyaungU market to this slick, breezy spot withplenty of parking space for tour buses thatmay or may not come. The restaurant overlookingthe river has wicker chairs and offersThai, Chinese and Myanmar dishes. Try theroof-top bar for a sunset cocktail (K3000); alldrinks are 10% off from 4pm to 6pm.7 ShoppingThere’s also a good selection of souvenirs atthe Thanakha Gallery and at shops alongRestaurant Row.Mani-Sithu MarketMARKET(h6am-5pm Mon-Sat) Near the roundabout atthe east end of the main road, this marketoffers a colourful display of fruit, vegetables,flowers, fish and textiles and is best visitedearly in the day to see it at its liveliest. You’llfind many traveller-oriented goods (woodcarvings,T-shirts, antique pieces) at itsnorthern end.8InformationEver Sky Information Service (%60895; 5 Thiripyitsaya;h7.30am-9.30pm) On the restaurantstrip, this friendly place has travel and transportinformation and a used bookshop. Staff can getshare taxis (to Mt Popa, Kalaw, Salay, aroundBagan) for the cheapest rates you’ll find.Internet (Thanakar Complex, Yarkinnthar HotelRd; K600 per hr; h9am-9pm)Post office (Anawrahta Rd; h9.30am-7pm)Telephone Stands around town follow the sameset prices: it’s $5 per minute to call Europe orAustralia and $6 to call North America.8Getting There & AwaySee Mt Popa and Salay Getting There & Awaysections for transport details to those nearbyattractions.AirThe Nyaung U Airport is about 2 miles southeastof the market. Airlines connect Bagan daily withMandalay ($38 to $40; 30 minutes), Heho ($60to $62; 40 minutes) and Yangon ($82 to $85; 70minutes).Travel agencies sell tickets a bit cheaper thanairline offi ces. Try Seven Diamond (%60883;Main Rd) or Sun Far (%60901) in front of theGolden Myanmar Guest House.BAGAN & SHOPPINGCENTRAL MYANMAR SHOPPINGNYAUNG U

120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoatBoats to Mandalay go from either Nyaung U orOld Bagan, depending on water levels. The NyaungU jetty is about half a mile northeast of theNyaung U market.The government-run IWT ferry (aka ‘slow boat’)heads to Mandalay on Monday and Thursday at5am ($10, two days) and overnights near Pakokku.Meanwhile the south-bound governmentferry leaves weekly to Magwe ($5, two days) andPyay ($9, three days). If open (unlikely!) the IWToffi ce, about 300yd inland from the jetty, sellstickets; alternatively book a ticket through yourhotel or one of the agencies listed above, who canalso secure tickets for the faster Malikha 2 ($32;11 hours) boat to Mandalay.From the Nyaung U jetty, small local boats leavefor Pakokku (K4000, 2½ hours) a few times daily(at research time: 6am, 9am and noon), the lastreturning to Nyaung U at 2pm. To charter a privateboat to Pakokku costs about K10,000 one way.BusThe main bus station serving Bagan is on themain road in Nyaung U.During peak season, it’s wise to book bustickets for Mandalay, Taunggyi (for Inle Lake)and Yangon a couple of days in advance. Youcan call %60743 for information on the Magwe,Mandalay and Taunggyi buses, but it’s better todrop by the offi ce at the bus station.Note, some Mandalay-bound buses go viaMyingyan, others via Kyaukpadaung and Meiktila;if you want to get off at these intermediatestops, you still pay the full fare to Mandalay. TheYangon-bound service goes via Meiktila and NayPyi Taw. Services:Magwe (K6500; four to five hours; 7am; minibus)Mandalay (K6500; seven to eight hours; 4am,7am, 8.30am, 9am, 7pm; local, no air-con)Meiktila (K6500; three to four hours; 7am,9am, 7pm; local, no air-con)Myingyan (K6500; three hours; 4am, 8.30am,8am; local, no air-con)Kalaw (K10,500; nine to 10 hours; 4am; Taunggyibus)Taunggyi (K10,500; nine to 10 hours; 4am;local)Yangon (K15,000; 11 hours; 5pm; air-con)Pick-Up TrucksThe lone daily pick-up service to Mt Popa (K3000each way, one hour) leaves at 8.30am from infront of the south entrance to the market, andreturns at 1pm. From the bus station half-hourlypick-ups go to Chauk (two hours), where you canconnect via pick-up to Salay (one hour).Pick-ups between Nyaung U, Old Bagan and NewBagan run along the main street, starting from theroundabout outside the Nyaung U market.TaxiAs Bagan has limited bus connections to othermajor destinations, many travellers hire sharetaxis – often quite old cars, some with openbacks, most without air-con and seating up tothree people – to destinations around the country.Ask at Ever Sky (p 119 ) or at your hotel. Somesample taxi fares: Inle Lake ($170, 12 hours),Kalaw ($150, 10 hours), Magwe ($70, fi ve hours),Mt Popa ($35, 1½ hours), Salay ($35, two hours),Mt Popa and Salay ($55).TrainThe Bagan train station is about 2.5 miles southeastof Nyaung U. The shop Blue Sea (%60949;Main Rd) sells tickets and charges a $2 commission.The train to Mandalay takes eighthours and departs at 7am (ordinary/upper class$5/10), while the train to Yangon takes 16 hoursand departs at 4.30pm (ordinary/upper class/sleeper $30/40/50).MALIKHA 2 BOAT TO MANDALAY DEE MACPHERSON ANDBONNIE MCMILLAN‘It was a pretty nice boat – part of the outside deck is open and part is covered. There’salso an upstairs and downstairs inside part that is air-conditioned. The boat left at 6am(promptly!) and the trip upriver took about 11½ hours. There is free coffee/tea andtoast/jam available for a few hours after departure, which was nice. Halfway through themorning, they come around and take your order for lunch – fried noodle or fried rice for3000K. It was actually quite good food! There is also beer/pop/water available for sale.‘Our boat was maybe half full, so it was quite comfortable. There was outside seatingavailable for pretty much everyone who wanted it, either in a chair or on the benchesaround the back. When you buy your ticket, you are assigned a seat inside the airconditionedpart. We were told by someone to go outside immediately and lay claim toa chair to ensure we got one – good advice because there aren’t enough for everyone,especially if the boat is full. The boat has a capacity of 129, and if you choose to sitinside, you certainly can see outside – the windows are fairly large.’

Old Baganpug®Dmúui¾eh;='"%061The core of the Bagan Archaeological Zonecontains several of the main temple sites,city walls, a museum, a reconstructed palace,restaurants, a few shops and a cluster of midrangeto top-end hotels. It’s right on a bendof the Ayeyarwady River – sometime duringyour stay, wander down to the waterfront andwatch the coming and going of the river trade.In 1990 the government forcibly relocateda village that had grown up in the 1970s inthe middle of the walled area of ‘Old Bagan’.We’re told one of the reasons for this was theincreased incidence of treasure hunting andgold prospecting around the ruins in the wakeof the 1988 street protests, when the authorities’attentions were diverted elsewhere.Some claim the villagers had a week’s noticeof the move; others say it was longer andthey put off the inevitable to the last minute.Either way, there was certainly resistance tothe uprooting of homes and belongings for anew home in a peanut field, now developedas the village of New Bagan.1SightsSee p 149 for information on temples in OldBagan.Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM(Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; admission $5; h9am-4.30pm)Housed in an out-of-place, 19th-century-styletemple, this government-run museum (seep 21 ) features many fine pieces from Bagan(reclining Buddhas, original images, inscribedstones and mural re-creations) andan unexpected room of modern-art renderingsof the temples.Bagan Golden PalacePALACE(Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; admission $5; h9am-4.30pm)Following similar government-mandated palacereconstruction jobs in Bago, Mandalayand Shwebo, this towering concrete-and-steelreinforcededifice was opened to much fanfarein 2008. Built opposite the excavated siteof the actual palace just in from the TharabarGate, it’s unlikely to bear much resemblanceto the original. Either way, it's a sign of theencroaching Disneyfication of Bagan.Old Bagan #e 0 500 m12Bupaya æ#GawdawpalinPahtoæ#4 # ÿ# â# ÿ 5#12 1ÿ#6AOld BaganJetty f## ÿ3AyeyarwadyRiverAOLDBAGANBagan-Nyaung U RdOld Baganæ Sights0 0.25 milesBTaungbi11#þú#792 # â#ÿ 10 ú#8æ#ú#æ#TharabarGateAnandaPahtoAnawraha Rd1 Archaeological Museum .....................A22 Bagan Golden Palace .......................... B1ÿ Sleeping3 Aye Yar River View Hotel..................... B14 Bagan Hotel .........................................A25 Bagan Thande Hotel............................A26 Bagan Thiripyitsaya SanctuaryResort ................................................A27 Hotel @ Tharabar Gate........................ B1ú Eating8 Be Kind to Animals the Moon ............. B19 Golden Myanmar ................................. B1Sarabha II ......................................(see 7)10 Sarahba III/Gyi Gyi’s .......................... B1Scoopy's ...................................... (see 8)þ Shopping11 Shwe War Thein HandicraftsShop................................................... B1Transport12 Horse Cart Stand.................................A24SleepingOld Bagan’s hotels provide views of the river,proximity to the temples and nice pool areas,but don’t necessarily offer much more comfortthan you get at New Bagan’s best – andless expensive – accommodation. Also, theycan fill up months in advance of peak season.All places listed have restaurants, barsand pools, plus satellite TV and extras likea minibar in the room. Prices listed here arewalk-in rates during peak season, and don’tinclude the 10% service charge and 10% governmenttax. Yangon agents often arrangediscounted rates.B12121BAGAN & SIGHTSCENTRAL MYANMAR SIGHTS OLD BAGAN

122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHotel @ TharabarGate HOTEL $$$(%60037, 60042, in Yangon 01-211 888; www.tharabargate.com; r $160-200, ste $300; ai Ws)If you can live without river views, this 86-room hotel is a fine option (particularlywhen you beat those rack rates by bookingon the internet or via agents, some of whomcan offer good deals). Lush gardens of tropicalplants and bougainvillea line walkwaysto the roomy wood-floor bungalows withdecks. The two-room suites at the far endgo traditional, with gold-coloured ogres andnaga spirits on the walls.Aye Yar River View Hotel HOTEL $$$(%60352, 60313, in Yangon 01-537 961; www.baganayeyarhotel.com; r $75-95; aiWs) Followinga major make-over, this former governmenthotel (we’re told it’s owned by a ‘privatebusiness person’ in Yangon) is very appealing.The most expensive rooms are set inspacious bungalows with river views, whilethose closer to the pool are pretty nice, too.Bagan Thiripyitsaya SanctuaryResort RESORT $$$(%60048, 60049; www.thiripyitsaya-resort.com;r $130-175, ste $300; ais) It’s hard not towish for more midday shade in this niceJapanese joint-venture hotel on the river,about 500m south of the Old Bagan walls.There’s a pool and rooms are away (mostly)from direct river views in ageing four-roombungalow-style duplexes with covered decks.The restaurant is good with panoramic riverviews and there’s a wide range of activitiesoffered (see p 114 ).Bagan Thande Hotel HOTEL $$(%60025, 60031; www.hotelbaganthande.com; s$28-66, d $33-75, ste $200; ais) Opened forKing Edward VIII in 1922, this riverside hotelcarries a bit of dated formality. The simple,but fine, midpriced ‘superior’ bungalowshave decks looking over the pool and nearbyGadawpawlin Pahto. Best for views, though,are the riverfront deluxe rooms at the river’sedge. Breakfast is served under tree shadewith river views too.Bagan Hotel HOTEL $$$(%60032; www.kmahotels.com; r from $60;aiWs) More modern and stylish thanThande, this 107-room hotel has bungalowswith teak floors in a nice setting. The owneris friendly with the government (see p 21 ).5EatingOld Bagan’s restaurants (between the AnandaPahto and Tharabar Gate) are a logicalcentral point for lunch. The nearby hotelrestaurants add a little style (and kyat) toyour meal.oBe Kind to Animalsthe Moon VEGETARIAN, BAMAR $$(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes K1500-3000;h7am-10pm; v) The original among the coupleof vegetarian restaurants clustered nearTharabar Gate, this place offers a friendlywelcome and delicious food includingpumpkin and ginger soup, aubergine curryand a lime and ginger tea that the ownersclaim is good for stomach upsets.Sarahba III/Gyi Gyi’s VEGETARIAN, BAMAR $(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes from K300; h6am-6pm) Join the crowds under a shady treenear the Tharabar Gate squatting on lowchairs at green-painted tables and tuckinginto some of Bagan’s best tucker, all freshlyprepared and supremely tasty. There’s nosign – the name is what local’s jokingly callthe place.Scoopy’s ICE CREAM $(off Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; dishes from K300; h11am-6pm) Run by the French-Burmese owners ofthe Black Bamboo in Nyaung U, this relaxedcafé and ice-cream parlour is something ofa godsend. Toasted sandwiches, homemademuffins and treats such as Western chocolatebars are available – all great for picnicsnacks while touring the temples.Sarabha II CHINESE, INTERNATIONAL $$(dishes K1200-8000; h11am-9pm) Of the twoSarabhas back to back by the Tharabar Gate,we like the one behind best, away from theroad. It’s a great midday resting point forshade and its range of food (Chinese, Thai,Burmese, pizza). The food’s good, and cheaperthan hotel restaurants, but best are thecold towels handed out to wipe the dust offyour face.Golden Myanmar BAMAR $$(Bagan-Nyaung U Rd; buffet K3000; h10am-10pm)Keep-it-real seekers (and lots of horse-cartdrivers) prefer this excellent roadside eaterywith shaded seats on a brick floor. The‘buffet’ (your pick of chicken, pork, fish ormutton curry) comes with the usual tablefulof condiments. There’s another location nearAnanda Pahto.

CARRIAGES & ELEPHANTS123Apart from the floating over Bagan by balloon, there are a couple more ways to see thetemples in grand style. Indulge your inner princess by hiring the Cinderella-style VictoriaHorsecart (%60782, 09 650 1444; half/full day $35/55), a 120-year-old wooden horsedrawncarriage made in England that seats up to four passengers. It’s owned by the sameBurmese-French couple who run the Black Bamboo and Scoopys.A Yangon-based Burmese-Italian couple are the driving force behind ElephantCoach (%in Yangon 01-661 731, 09 503 7366; www.asiaelephantcoach.com), which has one ofits three lovingly restored Chevrolet buses based in Bagan; the other two are in Yangon.An Orient Express compared to the typical clapped-out coach trundling Myanmar’sroads, these beauties, decorated with teak and ironwood, seat six in high colonial comfort.Hiring one for six/12 hours of sightseeing, including driver and hostess serving freshhand towels and soft drinks, costs US$250/380.7 ShoppingShwe War Thein HandicraftsShopHANDICRAFTS(%67032; shi@mptmail.net.mm; h6am-10pm peakseason) Just east of Tharabar Gate (and wellsigned off the Bagan–Nyaung U Rd) is thispopular treasure trove of Myanmar trinkets.The collection includes antique and newpuppets (starting from $5), woodcarvings,chess sets, lacquerware and bronze pieces.Ask to see the antique section at the rear.Lacquerware selections are wider in Myinkabaand New Bagan.8Getting There & AwayDepending on water levels, boats from Mandalayarrive in Old Bagan near the Aye Yar Hotel. Seep 120 for more on boats leaving Nyaung U, themajor gateway for buses, trains and planes outof Bagan.Myinkaba¨m='kp:%061Like lacquerware? Bagan’s most famous shoppingzone is this otherwise sleepy village,about half a mile south of Old Bagan, whichhas been home to family-run lacquerwareworkshops for generations. At least a dozenworkshops and storefronts are located aroundthe smattering of choice pahto (temples) andstupas (p 161 ) from the early Bagan period.And King Manuha, respectfully called the‘Captive King’, built the poetic Manuha Payawhile held here in the 11th century.7 ShoppingBefore pulling out your wallet, it’s wise tostop at a handful of places to compare varyingstyles (and prices). Workshops (like theones that follow) will show you the manystages of lacquerware-making and howlacquer is applied in layers, dried and engraved.There’s refreshingly little pressureto buy at any of the workshops. But qualityvaries; often the best stuff is kept in airconditionedrooms at the back. Most workshopsand stores keep long hours (roughly7am to 9pm during peak season).Generally, you can bargain about 10% offthe quoted prices – and no more. We pricedhigher-quality 14-layer (or higher) vasesfor $35, full tea sets with tray for $110, teacups or rice bowls for $15 to $25 and jewelleryboxes from $12. Seven-layer pieces arecheaper.A few places to check out:Art Gallery of BaganLACQUERWAREEnglish-speaking Maung Aung Myin hastwo rooms and a busy workshop on theroad 200yd north of Mahamuni. Apartfrom the full range of lacquerware – includingsome beautiful and pricey cabinetsand casks – it also has antique and newpuppets ($20 to $150).Family LacquerwareWork ShopLACQUERWARESmaller workshop off the east side of theroad, with a few more modern styles withless layers of lacquer and untraditionalcolours such as blue and yellow.Golden CuckooLACQUERWAREJust behind the Manuha Paya, this familyrunworkshop spans four generations andfocuses on ‘traditional’ designs, which areapplied to some unusual objects, includinga motorbike helmet ($250) and a guitar($500).BAGAN & SHOPPINGCENTRAL MYANMAR SHOPPINGMYINKABA

Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGAN8Getting There & AwayPick-ups running between New Bagan, OldBagan and Nyaung U stop here.New Bagan (Bagan Myothit)pug®Dmúui¾oc'''''%061Not as bustling as Nyaung U, even though it’scloser to the juicy temples, New Bagan sprunginto existence in 1990 when the governmentrelocated the village from the Old Bagan area.The people have done the best to make themost of their new home, with a network ofshady, dusty roads away from the river. It’slaid-back and definitely the site of Bagan’sbest midrange accommodation and riversiderestaurants.4SleepingAll prices here include breakfast and allplaces claim to have hot water.oKumudara Hotel HOTEL $$(%65142, in Yangon 01-295 472; www.kumudara-bagan.com; superior s/d $18/22, junior ste s/d$26/30, ste $40; pa is) No hotel boastsbetter balcony views of the mighty sprawl ofred-brick temples than Kumudara. Opt forthe chic junior suites and suites in a greenNew Bagan (Bagan Myothit)123Ayeyarwady RiverAUrbanHealth14Centre # î # ï# ÿ6#ñþ#10#geometrical building that fits well with thearid, desert-like setting. Inside, rooms havea playful mix of wood panelling, modern artand retro-style safe boxes. Kumudara has apool and a restaurant, plus half an hour offree internet access in the business centre.Thazin Garden Hotel HOTEL $$(%65035, in Yangon 01-537 898; www.thazingardenhotel.net; s $45-55, d $55-65; as) Set down adusty path near a clutch of small temples,this oasis of palms and flowers and shadedwalkways is an irresistible choice. The deluxe‘bungalows’ are built in a paya-style red-brickcomplex with a sea of dark luxurious teakinside and a balcony overlooking a 13thcenturypagoda within the grounds – dinneris served on the lawn in front. The ‘superior’rooms are just as inviting with hanging paperumbrellas, a chess board and deck area. It hasa pool (nonguests can swim for $5), a spa anda billiards table.Thiri Marlar Hotel HOTEL $$(%65050, 65229; thirimarlar@mptmail.net.mm;s/d $23/25; a) The teak walkways leading tothe 15 lovely rooms are wrapped around asmall pagoda-style dining room, though mostguests eat breakfast (or prearranged dinners)on the roof deck with temple views. Spotlessrooms are rather compact but inviting, with2 # ÿú#7Eight-Faces8 4# ÿ3ú#Paya # ÿ9ú ##Úþ# 12 # ÿ# þ111ThiripyitsayaVillageABTo Myinkaba (1.2mi);Old Bagan (2.2mi);Nyaung U (5.3mi)Tiger Head ExpressCo (Pick-Upsto Taunggyi)‚To SittanaPaya (900m)BBagan-Nyaung U Rd‚Khayea Pin St# ï 13#e0 400 m0 0.25 milesCDCSchoolYeosin CreekMorningMarket# ÿ 5BAGANMYOTHIT(NEW BAGAN)LawkanatHotel (150m)ArthawkaHotel (300m)DTo Airport(4.7mi)‚123

shiny wood floors, small rugs and views ofbougainvillea draping over the wall outside.Shwe in the reception, which is also decoratedwith Bambi and Thumper print curtains.125Arthawka Hotel HOTEL $(%65321, in Yangon 01-502 479; www.visitmyanmar.net/hotels; 160 Cherry Rd; s $25-30, d $30-35) Bigglazed clay pots and wicker chairs dot thespacious lobby of this friendly 60-room hotel.It offers spacious rooms sporting woodfloors and white tiled bathrooms. In thecentre of the complex is a saltwater pool,shaded by palms.Lawkanat Hotel HOTEL $$(%65046; s/d $25/30; a) This 20-room complex,just off the main road, has black-tileddecks leading to simple green-carpetedrooms with giant front windows, which lookout over the peaceful gardens. It works.NK Betel Nut Hotel HOTEL $$(%65054, 09-204 2052; Khayea Pin St; s/d $20/25;a) A bit overpriced for what you get, thisfunny group of cabins – a few at the frontwith log facades – offers OK rooms with redcarpet, a little TV and an old tiled bathroom.You can find the same for less in NyuangU, but it’s clean and the management arewelcoming.Bagan Central Hotel HOTEL $(%65057, 65265; Main Rd; s/d from $15/20; a)These good-value bamboo-style rooms withpebbled facades are compact and clean andset around a tree-shaded courtyard wherebreakfast is served. For rooms with tubs add$5 to the rates.Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House HOTEL $(%65092; Main Rd; s/d $15/20; a) This simple,shady complex has straightforward roomswith scruffy carpets laid atop concrete floors,old air-con unit, tiny TV, and attached bathroom.There is a portrait of General ThanNew Bagan (Bagan Myothit)5EatingNew Bagan’s Main Rd is lined with severalChinese and Burmese restaurants. Manyforeigners grab a meal on the riverside, justwest – there are several and you can eitherbe lost amid the tour groups or have theplace to yourself.Green Elephant BAMAR, ASIAN $$(mains K7000-9000; h11am-4pm & 6-10pm) Thegood-value and tasty Myanmar set meal(K8000) comes with a couple of curries,vegetable tempura, soup, dessert and coffee.There are small and large portions of otherdishes (including local curries). But it’s thesetting that’s the deal, with shaded tables ona lawn overlooking the Ayeyarwady River.Silver House BAMAR, ASIAN $$(Main Rd; mains K5000; h7am-10pm) A welcomingfamily-run restaurant that offers large,tasty portions of dishes such as traditionalMyanmar chicken curry and tomato salad.The King Si Thu BAMAR, ASIAN $$(%65117; mains K4500; h8am-10pm) Anotherriverside setting, another Myanmar restaurantmainly serving Chinese and Thai dishessuch as sweet-and-sour pork, or fish with ginger.Order one hour ahead for Burmese food.There’s a half-hour puppet show at 7.30pm.7 ShoppingNew Bagan has several good options for lacquerware– at all you can watch artisans atwork.oBlack Elephant Studio LACQUERWARE(www.lacquerinstitute.org; 1-25 Swel Daw St;h8am-5pm) Set up by British-Ukrainianÿ Sleepingþ Shopping1 Bagan Central Hotel.............................. C3 10 Bagan House ..........................................C22 Kumudara Hotel .....................................C1 11 Black Elephant Studio ...........................D33 Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House...................... B2 12 Tun Handicrafts/Moe Moe's.................B34 NK Betel Nut Hotel ................................ C25 Thazin Garden Hotel ............................. D3 ï Information6 Thiri Marlar Hotel....................................C1 13 Exotissimo ..............................................C314 Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT) ........... B1ú Eating7 Green Elephant...................................... A2 ï Transport8 Silver House........................................... C2 U Zaw Weik ...................................... (see 1)9 The King Si Thu...................................... A3BAGAN & EATINGCENTRAL MYANMAR EATING NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT)

126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND BAGANartist Veronica Gritsenko in 1999, thissmall studio produces lacquerware in thetraditional style, but with exquisite uniqueand unusual designs.Tun Handicrafts/Moe Moe’s LACQUERWARE(Main Rd; h8am-9pm) A large showroomwith mix of traditional and modern lacquerware(exposed-bamboo tea cups for$4 and rice bowls from $7).Bagan HouseLACQUERWARE(9 Jasmin Rd; www.baganhouse.com; h8am-7pm)Worth seeking out on the backstreets, thisstylish showroom has a mix of cheap andhigher-priced lacquerware, as well as theusual artisans at work. Unlike other places,it does accept credit cards if you spendover $100, with the usual 5% surcharge.8InformationExotissimo (%60383; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri,9am-noon Sat) High-end agent, which canarrange Mt Popa tours ($65 including guide andcar) or rent sturdy mountain bikes ($10 per day).Internet Available at several places along themain street.Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; %65040;h8.30am-4.30pm) The government-run touristoffice can help organise excursions to visitChin State (see p 287 ).8Getting There & AroundSee Nyaung U for most transport connections.Tiger Head Express Co (Bagan-Chauk Rd)sends daily pick-up trucks to Kalaw and Taunggyi(K12,000, front seat K15,000), departing at 5am.There are airline offi ces on Main Rd. U ZawWeik (%65017; zawweik@myanmar.com.mm;Main Rd) helps with air tickets or can get you ataxi to Mt Popa (K42,000), Mt Popa and Salay(K42,000), around Bagan (K30,000) or to Kalawor Mandalay ($115).Bicycle rental starts at K5000 per day; youcan get a mountain bike at Exotissimo. See p 115for more on getting around the Bagan site.AROUND BAGANMt Popapup¹:"et;='%02Like a Burmese Mt Olympus, Mt Popa is thespiritual HQ to Myanmar’s infamous ‘37 nat’and thus a premier venue for nat worship;for more on these pre-Buddhist spirits, seep 338 .Mt Popa proper is the 4980ft extinct volcanocovered in lush forests protected withinthe Popa Mountain Park and home to theexclusive Popa Mountain Resort; on themountain’s lower flank is Popa Taung Kalat, atowerlike 2418ft volcanic plug crowned with agilded Buddhist temple accessed by 777 steps.The volcano last erupted some 250,000 yearsago (some locals suggest 40 million yearsago). One local told us: ‘Popa is like the sun ormoon; no one can guess how old it is.’From the temple there are mammoth viewsback towards the Myingyan Plain and beyond.It’s gorgeous, but only a few visitors come ona half-day trip from Bagan, and of those whodo, many shrug their shoulders because theydon’t have a guide to enliven the experiencewith stories and explanations – going on a daytrip to Mt Popa without some sort of guide islike watching a foreign-language film withoutsubtitles.One revered guide to Mt Popa is U TaungHwin (per day $20), a gentle old soul withgood English and plenty of experience leadingtravellers around the culturally rich area.Ask for him by name at the Shwe Taung TarnRestaurant, on Nyaung U’s main road.Myanmar superstition says you shouldn’twear red or black on the mountain, nor shouldyou curse, say bad things about other peopleor bring along any meat (especially pork). Anyof these actions could offend the resident nat,who might then retaliate with a spate of illfortune. And no-one likes a mad nat.1SightsMother Spirit of Popa Nat Shrine NAT SHRINEBefore climbing Popa Taung Kalat, drop bythe tiger-guarded shrine in the village at thefoot of the mountain (just across from thesteps guarded by elephant statues – thereare loads of critters around here). Insideyou’ll find a display extending left and rightfrom an inner hallway door of mannequinlikefigures representing some of the 37 officialnat, plus some Hindu deities and a fewnecromancers (the figures with goatees atthe right end of the shrine).In the shrine there are also other nat notcounted among the official ‘37’, includingthree principal figures: the Flower-EatingOgress (aka Mae Wunna, or ‘Queen Motherof Popa’) and her two sons (to her left andright) Min Gyi and Min Lay (see p 127 ).A few other interesting nat here caughtour attention. The plump Pyu goddess ShinNemi (Little Lady) is a guardian for chil-

NAT MORAL: FULFIL YOUR DUTIES!127Sometimes it’s hard being a nat. The namesake figure of the Mother Spirit of Popa & NatShrine is Mae Wunna. She was famous for her love of Byat-ta, one of King Anawrahta’sservants – a flower-gathering Indian with superhuman powers – who neglected his dutiesand was executed for it.Their two sons, Min Gyi and Min Lay, supposedly born atop Mt Popa, followed their father’stradition. They became servants of the king (often going to China), grew neglectfulof their duties, and then they were executed. King Anawrahta, however, ordered a shrinebuilt at the place of their execution (at Taungbyone, north of Mandalay), now the site of ahuge festival (see p 127 ). Many worshippers come to offer a blessing to these three. MaeWunna and her sons are the central figures facing the entry to the shrine.dren, and gets toy offerings during schoolexam time. She’s the cute little thing clutchinga green umbrella and a stuffed animal,midway down on the left of the shrine.There have been a few Kyawswas in Myanmarspirit history, but the most popular isthe Popa-born Lord Kyawswa (aka DrunkNat), who spent his few years cockfightingand drinking. He boasts: ‘If you don’t likeme, avoid me. I admit I’m a drunkard.’ He’sthe guardian of gamblers and drunks andsits on a horse decked in rum and whiskeybottles, to the right.Locals pray to Shwe Na Be (Lady withGolden Sides) when a snake comes intotheir house. She’s the woman holding anaga (serpent) near the corner to the left.Mt Popa TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLEFrom the nat shrine start up the steps undera covered walkway and past the usual rowsof trinket and souvenir shops and shrines toa revered local medicine man, Pomin Gawng.At a steady pace it shouldn’t take you morethan 20 minutes to reach the top of this impressiverocky crag crowned with a picturesquecomplex of monasteries, stupas andshrines. Along the way, you’ll pass platoonsof cheeky monkeys and a small army of localsselling drinks and endeavouring (notalways successfully) to keep the steps cleanof monkey poo – for this they’ll request a tip.Views from the top are fantastic. You maybe fortunate enough to spot one of the slowwalkinghermit monks called yeti, who weartall, peaked hats and visit occasionally.Popa Mountain ParkHIKINGA variety of hiking trails thread throughthe Popa Mountain Park, leading to the rimof the volcano crater and to viewpoints andwaterfalls. Along the way, you’ll be able toobserve the difference in the vegetation.The heights capture the moisture of passingclouds, causing rain to drop on the plateauand produce a profusion of trees, floweringplants and herbs, all nourished by the richvolcanic soil. In fact, the word popa is derivedfrom the Sanskrit word for flower.Trekking here is best done with localguides. Ask at the turn-off, a mile or so backfrom Popa village (towards Bagan), or enquireat the Popa Mountain Resort, half-wayup the peak. From the resort, the hike to thecrater takes around four hours.If you come by taxi, ask the driver topoint out bits of petrified forest, which arestrewn along either side of the road west ofPopa village.zFestivals & EventsMt Popa hosts two huge nat pwe (spiritfestivals) yearly, one beginning on the fullmoon of Nayon (May/June) and another onthe full moon of Nadaw (November/December).Before King Anawrahta’s time, thousandsof animals were sacrificed to the natduring these festivals, but this practice hasbeen prohibited since the Bagan era. Spiritpossession and overall drunken ecstasy arestill part of the celebration, however.There are several other minor festivals,including ones held on the full moons ofWagaung (July/August) and Tagu (March/April), which celebrate the departure and returnof the famous Taungbyone nat (Min Gyiand Min Lay). Once a year, the Taungbyonenat are believed to travel a spirit circuit thatincludes Mt Popa, Taungbyone (about 14miles north of Mandalay) and China.4SleepingMost visitors find a couple of hours with MtPopa’s monkeys enough. However, there are acouple of guesthouses in Popa village (roomsabout $15). There’s also the lovely, lonelyAROUND BAGAN & BAGAN CENTRAL FESTIVALS MYANMAR & EVENTS FESTIVALS MT POPA & EVENTS

128BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND BAGANFRUIT OF THE PALMSOn the way to or from Mt Popa have yourdriver pause at one of the several toddyand jaggery (palm sugar) operations thatare set up along the road. The operatorswill give you a basic demo of how the alcoholicdrink and sweets are made fromthe sap of the toddy palm. After, you cantaste and buy the products.Popa Mountain Resort (%69169, in Yangon01-503 831; rsvpopa@myanmar.com.mm; r superior$70, r deluxe garden/mountain view $150/200;ais), owned by Htoo Trading Company, abusiness affiliated with the government (seep 21 ).Nonguests can take a dip in the pool ($5)or have a meal (Myanmar set menu for $12)at the good restaurant while overlooking thepagodas atop Popa Taung Kalat.8Getting There & AwayMost travellers visit Mt Popa in half a day byshare taxi or by organised tour from their hotel.In Nyaung U, guesthouses could get you a slot ina share taxi (without guide); a whole taxi is $35and, at a squeeze, can fi t four plus the driver.At research time a pick-up truck left NyaungU’s bus station at 8.30am for Mt Popa (K3000,two hours); it left Popa for Nyaung U at 1pm.Less conveniently, you could take an hourlypick-up from Nyaung U to Kyaukpadaung (90minutes) and then another to Mt Popa (45 minutes).This would take a full day.Salaycel%063This Bagan-era village, 22 miles south ofBagan, is rooted in the 12th and 13th centuries,when Bagan’s influence spread. Itremains an active religious centre, withsomething like 50 monasteries for the 7000or so residents! Day-trippers make it here tovisit a few of the 19th-century wooden monasteriesand some select Bagan-era shrines,and peek at a handful of untouched Britishcolonial buildings.It can be paired with Mt Popa on a fulldaytrip, though the two are in different directionsfrom Bagan. Eating choices tend tobe better in nearby Chauk (famous for itsproduction of the sweet tamarind flakes thatare served at the end of all meals in Bagan),but you can get noodles in the Salay market.There are no hotels.1SightsYouqson KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYrup'c®uekY;='"(%09-4721 5427; admission $5, camera fee $2;h9am-4.30pm) Designed as a copy of theCrown Prince House in Mandalay, and builtfrom 1882 to 1892, the huge wooden monasteryis the best place to start a visit in Salay.Along two of its exterior sides are detailedoriginal carvings displaying 19th-centurycourt life and scenes from the Jataka (storiesof the Buddha’s past lives) and Ramayana(one of India’s best-known legends);sadly another side’s pieces were looted inthe 1980s. Inside, the 17th- to 19th-centurypieces are behind glass cases, while theBagan-era woodcarvings (including a massivethrone backdrop) stand in open view.The monastery was renovated twice inthe 1990s and the government’s Departmentof Archaeology runs the site (see p 21 ); onsitestaff can point you to other nearby sitesin and outside town.Bagan-Era Monuments BUDDHIST TEMPLESLittle of the history of Salay’s 103 ruins isknown outside a small circle of Myanmararchaeologists working with limited funds.It is said that most of the monuments in Salayweren’t royally sponsored, but were builtby the lower nobility or commoners – thusthere’s nothing on the grand scale of Bagan’sbiggest structures.In the pagoda-filled area about 110ydeast of Youqson Kyaung, you can see PayaThonzu (Temples 18, 19 and 20), which is asmall trio of brick shrines with sikhara (Indian-stylecorncob-like temple finials) andsome faded murals inside. The westernmostshrine (to the left if you come from the museum)has the most visible murals and alsoa narrow set of stairs leading to a small terrace.If it’s locked, ask at Youqson Kyaung.A more interesting feature is the modernmakeover of the Bagan-era ShinpinsarkyoPaya (Temple 88), about 4 miles southwest oftown via a dodgy road (and a couple of dodgybridges). Inside the glass- and tile-filled pagoda,you’ll find an original 13th-century woodLokanat (Mahayana Bodhisattva guardianspirit).The nearby northern entrance passagewayfeatures interesting 19th-century 3-Dmurals (some are torture to see). Original

woodcarvings abound, some of which arepainted afresh in original design.Another mile or so south of Shinpinsarkyo(most taxis won’t drive it, but it’s aneasy 15-minute walk) is Temple 99, an unassuming13th-century shrine that features578 painted Jataka scenes inside. The last 16paintings to the left as you enter representthe ‘16 Dreams of King Kosala’.Other SightsAn interesting aspect of Salay is the fadedcolonial-era buildings dotted around town,a few of which still feature the Royal Crownhigh up on their facades (look around themarket area, about 220yd west of the museum).This area is especially worth visiting,as few buildings in Myanmar still sport thelion-guarded crown.In the complex about 500yd west of thePaya Thonzu, the Mann Paya is a modernpagoda housing a 20ft gold Buddha made ofstraw lacquer. As the story goes, the Buddhaimage was originally located near Monywaand was washed downstream during an 1888monsoon – all the way to Salay. Ask for a peekinside from the latched door at the back.North 500yd of the Paya Thonzu, themonastery and meditation centre of SasanayaunggyiKyaung (a stop-off point forday-trippers) features a lovely 19th-centuryglass armoire with painted Jataka panelsand 400-year-old scripture in Pali inside. Themonks are chatty and friendly, and will askfor a donation for their on-site school.8Getting There & AwaySalay is 22 miles south of Bagan on a road that’soften fl ood damaged. You pass through thelarger town of Chauk on the way. From Chauk,another road goes east to Kyaukpadaung, with aturn-off for Magwe.A hired taxi for a four- or fi ve-hour trip to Salayfrom Nyaung U runs from $45. It’s technicallypossible to come by pick-up truck from NyaungU in three hours (not including a change inChauk), but it’s not advisable, as some sites inSalay aren’t close to the drop-off point.Pakokkupxukû†%062A transit point for wayward travellers on thewest side of the Ayeyarwady River, Pakokkuwas a quiet backwater until 2007, when itfound itself front-and-centre in internationalheadlines. Monks from the Myo Ma Ahlemonastery here kick-started the nationwideprotests against rising petrol prices that becamethe ill-fated ‘Saffron Revolution’.Since then Pakokku – famed for its tobaccoand thanakha – has reverted to typeas an interesting and friendly place, even ifyou just have a couple of hours before catchinga bus to Monywa or a boat to NyaungU. Should you choose to linger, there’s ariverside homestay that’s basic, but whichmany guests rank as a highlight of their trip.One of the town’s biggest pwe festivals, Thihoshin,is held during Nayon (May/June).A new bridge – the longest in Myanmar –across the Ayeyarwady is under constructionand, when completed in the next couple ofyears, will speed up connections between Pakokkuand Bagan, which is only 16 miles south.1SightsIf time is limited, you’ll get the most out ofPakokku by seeing its market, checking outsome of its temples and monasteries – includingone monastery with a giant clocktower– or just wandering its picturesquelydecrepit, slightly tropical side streets, whichfeature old homes backing onto the AyeyarwadyRiver.About 17 miles northeast, on the way toMonywa, are the remains of Pakhangyi, a19th-century wooden monastery. About 3miles east of Pakhangyi (via the road behindthe big modern pagoda) is the destroyedframe of Pakhanngeh Kyaung, which wasonce the country’s largest wooden monastery.Many of its 332 teak pillars still stand,and the area – near the fork of the Ayeyarwadyand Kaladan Rivers – makes for interestingexploration. A taxi here from Pakokkuis K25,000 to K30,000.4SleepingoMya Yatanar Inn HOMESTAY $(%21457; 75 Lanmataw St; r per person K6000, withshared bathroom K5000) Charming, Englishspeakinggrandma Mya Mya, her daughterand four granddaughters will welcome youto their 100-year-old home on the river, acouple of blocks east of the market. Roomsare super-basic and grubby, but bearableonce you fall under the hospitable spell ofthese women. Electricity is mostly off duringthe day (as with all of Pakokku), and mostrooms share the cold-water bathroom andsquat toilet. They can rustle up a deliciousmeal for under K1000, help you get a taxi129AROUND BAGAN & BAGAN CENTRAL 8MYANMAR 8 PAKOKKU

130BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND BAGANdeal to see the sights, or show you to localpagodas or where tattooing is done.Tha Pye No Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$(%21166, 23166; 68 Myoma Rd; r K12,000-20,000;a) If you need things like 24-hour electricity,satellite TV, minibar fridge or even anight dress, then the newly built superiorrooms here are a reasonable choice. Instantpot noodles, coffee or green tea constitutebreakfast. Skip the cheaper cell-like rooms,which share a bathroom with a cold shower.8Getting There & AwayMinibuses shuttle to and from Monywa (K1300,three hours) leaving at 6am, 9am, 11am and 2pmfrom the corner of Tinda and Aung Taw Mu Sts.From the main bus station on Myoma Rd thereare three services daily to Mandalay (K3000,seven hours).Ferries to Nyaung U (K3400, two hours) leaveat 5am, 10am and 1.30pm.Monywamu®râ;%071 / POP 180,000Pronounced in two syllables (mon-ywa),Monywa is an engaging if slightly scrappytrade town that makes a sensible stoppingpoint if you’re looping between Mandalay123f#12A131514 # ìf###YongyiChindwinRiverAKannarZae St#4 # ÿ# á Bogyoke ú#10Moonlight9StatueCinema ý#ú#8 ú#5ú## Ú 13# ˜ # ÿú#6#ð # áClockTowerSar Tae TannBTo Monywa Hotel(550m); Win UnityResort (1100m);Budalin (19mi)16#Phyar Gyi StOldMarketPywe Sar TanKannar Lan (StrandRd)17BShantawStTa Yoke Tann# Ú 2and Bagan via Pakokku. A series of interestingattractions in the surrounding countryside(p 132 ) can happily fill a couple of days,and for the adventurous few who boat-hopthe Chindwin, Monywa is the logical start/end point. The town itself is big, hot and flat,with relatively little to see beyond the marketsand the pleasant Chindwin riversidesetting, though two large, central pagodacomplexes, Shwezigon Paya and Su TaungPye Zedi are well worth a wander.4SleepingBreakfast is included in all three hotelsreviewed. If these three are full, you’ll bestuck with the central but miserable GoldenArrow Hotel (%21548; Bogyoke Rd; s/d from$10/16) or the inconveniently located GreatHotel down by the bus station.Win Unity RESORT HOTEL $$(%22438, 22013; tintinmoe@mptmaill.net.mm; BogyokeRd; s $35-50, d $45-65, tr $60-80; ais)Easily Monywa’s swankiest option, the Winis a series of tile-roofed modern bungalowrooms set on the lakeside, less than half amile north of the central area. They’re allirreproachably neat and comfortable, butthink low-rise condo rather than colonialgem. Lake-view rooms (s/d/tr $50/65/80)command a premium. Beware that the nineBogyoke RdButa Lan(Station Rd)Cú#7Saik PyoeYae StBogyoke RdNyaung Tabin RdC#e 0 0.2 milesDMonywa0 400 m‚‚NewMarket11#þ‚#£To Immigration(4.5mi;Kyaukka (12mi);Shwebo (64mi)Buta Lan (Station Rd)‚To Bus Station (1mi);Thanboddhay Paya(7mi); Giant Buddha(12mi); A Myint(15mi); Mandalay(85mi)D123

far plainer ‘standard’ rooms (s/d $25/30) arehidden away above staff workstations andare aimed more for drivers rather than forguests. The inviting pool has a swim-up barand Jacuzzi area, but mosquito repellent isadvised.Monywa Hotel HOTEL $$(%21581, 21549; Bogyoke Rd; s $20-25, d $25-30;a) Set well back from the busy street amidbirdsong and creeper-draped trees, thiswell-maintained series of multiroom cabinsis popular with small tour groups. Interiorsfeel a little dated and the colour schemesare hideous, but even the cheaper roomsare fair-sized with effective air-conditioning,desk, fridge, piping-hot showers, satelliteTV and comfy beds. Superior rooms score abathtub and a chair on your terrace.Shwe Taung Tarn BUDGET HOTEL $(%21478; 70 Station Rd; r per person $8-12; a) Foryears Shwe Taung Tarn has been Monywa’smost popular budget choice. The facade looksunkempt – and it’s worth skipping the frontbuilding’s $8 rooms, which are worse – butbehind is an unexpectedly pleasant little gardenarea and a pair of newer two-storey buildings.Rooms there remain good value for theMonywaæ Sights1 Shwezigon Paya .................................. B12 Su Taung Pye Zedi...............................B3ÿ Sleeping3 Golden Arrow Hotel.............................B24 Shwe Taung Tarn................................. B1ú Eating5 Aung Pan .............................................. B16 Night Market ........................................C27 Shine's Shine ....................................... C1Shwe Taung Tarn......................... (see 4)8 Su.......................................................... B19 Yae Khal Taung.................................... C110 Zwe Mahn............................................. C1þ Shopping11 Government Emporium ......................C3ï Transport12 Express Boat Jetty ..............................A213 IWT Ticket Office .................................A214 Jetty (for cross-river boats) ...............A215 MGRG ...................................................A216 Ngwe Shwe Oo.....................................B317 Shwe Nadi ............................................B3price, but while they were once relatively stylish,many now suffer seriously scuffed floorsand gob-stained walls.5Eating & DrinkingShwe Taung Tarn has a restaurant sectionbeside its budget hotel that cooks fine Chinesefood and has an unexpectedly chic rooftopsection.Pleasant Island CHINESE $$(Myakanthar Lake, Bogyoke Rd; mains K3000-8000, rice/beer K500/3500; h7am-10pm; E)Monywa’s finest restaurant occupies a tinylake island across upper Bogyoke Rd fromthe Win Unity Hotel. It’s a photogenic spotat sunset, linked to the shore by a roly-polywooden bridge. Fine if pricey Chinese foodis served at open pavilions: bring mosquitorepellent. If you want (partial) lake views atfar lower prices, walk 200m further southand cross the side-road, where there’s a simplerSino-Burmese eatery.Yad Khel Taung BEER STATION $(Bogyoke St; mains K1500-4000; h8am-10pm)This friendly if typical draft beer stationserves Shan and Chinese food, but is mostremarkable for the tiny amuse-boucheplates of namakyien, a delicious localsesame-based humus that arrive free withmost meals.Aung Pan BURMESE $(Phyar Gyi St; meals K2000; h9am-9pm) Thetypically generous multi-dish spread arrivingwith your choice of curry includes asuperlative khayandi thuk (mashed roasteggplant). The setting is unremarkable, buthelpful Bagyi in the attached computerrepairshop speaks English. Similar mealsare served at Su and Zwe Mahn, both onStation Rd.Shine’s Shine CHINESE $(Saik Pyoe Yae St; mains K2000-4500, rice/draftbeer K100/600; h10am-10pm) Oddly recycledfrom a vehicle-repair yard, but shaded byfine trees full of coloured lights, this large,busy outdoor space serves fair-priced delicacies,including eel, duck and catfish. Thecrumbed Slavia fish in lemon sauce (K2800)was scrumptious if MSG-loaded.Night Market FOOD STALLS $(Bogyoke St; h5-10.30pm) Various cheap eatsbetween the clock tower and Bogyoke (AungSan) statue.131AROUND BAGAN & BAGAN CENTRAL EATING MYANMAR & DRINKING EATING MONYWA & DRINKING

132BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND BAGAN8InformationNetizen (Shantaw St; per hr K500; h8am-10pm) Comfortable downstairs room with fastconnections. English spoken.Nan Chung (Zae St; h7.30am-6pm) Kyat fordollar exchange at bearable rates from thisolde-worlde Chinese grocery (yellow shuttersat the corner of Kannar St).8Getting There & AwayAirThe airport is 12km north, off the Budalin road.Some Tuesdays the government’s MyanmaAirways (see p 21 ) stops in Monywa betweenMandalay and Homalin, but as usual the decisionto fl y is only made the day before, so ticketscan’t be reserved until Monday afternoon.BoatThere is no public service downriver to Pakokku,but daily boats link the towns and villages of theupper Chindwin River. Foreigners need permits,but permits for the journey to Kalewa are usuallyorganised within a day or two (see boxedtext). Express boats to Kalewa (foreigner/localK15,000/5000, around 13 hours) depart 4.30amdaily, operated by one of three Strand Rd companieson a rotating cycle, MGRG (%22987), NgweShwe Oo (%23051) or Shwe Nadi (%23488).Buy tickets one day before, permit in hand. Stopsshould include the attractive old settlements ofKani, Mingin and Kan/Kyidaw. Departing Thursdaysat 7am, the IWT (government; see p 21 ) riverferry moves slower than political evolution. Allowup to four days from Monywa to Kalewa in the dryseason. In the rainy season IWT boats becomemore frequent and travel further north.BusMonywa’s bus station is just over a mile southeastof the clock tower down Bogyoke St, hiddenbehind the Great Hotel.MANDALAY Several companies, includingMahanwe and AGB, operate hourly buses 5amto 4pm (K1700, 3¼ to four hours).PAKOKKU AGB buses (K1300, 4½ hours) leaveat 6.30am, 8.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm. Othercompanies leave at 8am, 10.30am and 1.15pm.Take the first bus if you want to to be sure ofa same-day ferry connection from Pakokku toNyaung U (last departure 1.30pm).SHWEBO Once or twice hourly from 5am to1pm plus at 3pm (K1100, 3½ hours). The attractiverural route passes through Kyaukka, famedfor its lacquerware cottage industry, but localhelp is needed if you want to see much there.TrainMANDALAY Departs noon ($3, six hours). Thetrip, in an uncomfortable three-box-car train,takes twice as long as the bus and costs almosttwice the price.8Getting AroundMotorbikes/trishaws/three-wheelersto the centre from the bus station costK1000/1000/1500. All, along with white,plain-clothes taxis, linger near the northernShwezigon Paya entrance, while outside theShwe Taung Tarn you might fi nd Saw Tha Hla,a calm-driving, super-helpful guide/motorcycletaxi driver who speaks functional English.Around MonywaIf you have only one full day, the mostpopular option is to visit Hpo Win Daungcaves followed by Thanboddhay and BodhiTataung. The latter is west-facing, and so isbest seen in afternoon sunlight.SOUTH OF MONYWAA MyintANCIENT VILLAGELittle visited by foreigners apart from occasionalChindwin cruise groups, A Myint is acharmingly unspoilt riverside village dominatedby a series of 336 higgledy piggledyancient stupas in varying stages of collapse.All are compactly ranged around aCHINDWIN PERMITSTo travel as far north as Kalewa, the permit procedure can prove comparatively painless.Apply Monday to Thursday before 4pm at the Monywa immigration office (four miles eastof centre towards Shwebo) and the necessary letter should be ready within 24 hours. Tocontinue further north (eg Mawleik, Homalin or Khamti), the permits are far more complicatedto organise: generally they’re limited to organised groups and you’ll need to contactYangon agencies for help. Allow at least three weeks’ preparation. This is usually done intandem with an expensive cruise program. The Pandaw (www.pandaw1947.com) made onesuch 10-day cruise in 2010 (s/d $4090/6300), and GMT (www.myanmartravelagent.com)can organise tailor-made small-boat cruises. A few Yangon travel agencies can get permitsfor those on semi-independent packages where you stay in local guesthouses and uselocal boats, but the cost is still prohibitive at around $2000 per person.

AN 11TH-CENTURY LOVE TRIANGLE133In 1056 the King of Bago became a vassal of Bagan’s ascendant ruler, Anawrahta, wholater sent his armies to bolster Bago against the Khmers. Among the tribute gifts thatsymbolised the relationship was one of four Buddha hair relics sent to Bagan and nowenshrined within Bagan’s Shwesandaw pagoda. Another ‘gift’ was the King of Bago’sbeautiful daughter Princess Manisanda (aka Khin U). To collect these priceless prizes,Anawrahta sent his most trusted commanders, the ‘four paladins’, led by his son andforemost general Kyanzittha. But as they returned Kyanzittha was overcome by temptationfor the future queen, kicking off a classic love triangle. Once their affair was discovered,Kyanzittha was bound and sentenced to death by his furious father. However,the magic lance that was supposed to execute him instead broke the ropes that boundhim and Kyanzittha made a fairy-tale escape, grabbing the lance and fleeing in a fishingboat. After a series of similarly implausible triumphs against Anawrahta’s search parties,Kyanzittha settled in Kaungbyu, before finally returning to Bagan in 1077, only to rekindlethe affair with Manisanda. Today, there is some controversy as to where Kaungbyu was,but Monywa guides are adamant that it was the delightful little village of A Myint (p 132 ).little wooden monastery and a few retaininterior murals. Another minor attraction isthe British-era house (62 Seidan St) of theformer village chief. It’s private and stillowned by the charming original family, whomight wind up their gramophone for you orshow off their 1920s sepia photos.A major attraction is the lovely 15-mileride through agricultural villages fromMonywa on a lane that’s narrow but unusuallywell asphalted. Around half way looknortheast for brief, distant views.SOUTHEAST OF MONYWAIf you’re driving between Mandalay andMonywa, the following sites can be convenientlyvisited as a short detour en route.However, if you’re using public transport,you’d be wiser to visit on a return excursionfrom Monywa, costing around K5000/8000by motorbike/three-wheeler and takingaround three hours.Thanboddhay PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEsmºŸedÖ.ur;"(Monye Sambuddhe) The central feature of thiscarnivalesque complex is a large mid-20thcenturytemple whose unique roof is layeredwith rows of gilt mini-stupas. Its flanksburst gaudily bright colours and are flankedby 30ft-high concrete obelisks set with uncountableminuscule Buddha shapes. Themultiply arched temple interior (admission$3; h6am-5pm) is plastered with so manyBuddha images, large and small, that it feelslike you’re walking through a Buddha houseof mirrors. However, while intriguing, you’llget the idea in two minutes and some visitorsmake do with peeping in for free. Thanboddhay’skitschfest continues in the surroundingpastel-hued monks’ quarters andwith two huge white concrete elephants atthe site’s gateway. It’s 1.5km off the Mandalayroad, 10km from Monywa.Bodhi TataungWORLD’S BIGGEST BUDDHAeb;/itc'eq;='Another 8km east from Thanboddhay, thename of this vast hillside Buddha-ramatranslates as ‘1000 Buddhas’. But for most visitors,only two of them really count. Openedin 2008, the glimmering 424ft standingBuddha is claimed to be the world’s tallest,and it utterly dominates the landscapefor miles around. Inside the multi-storeytorso, seemingly interminable stairways linkpainted galleries, many lower ones depictinggruesome hell scenes. You might hope thatclimbing to Buddha’s head would take you,artistically at least, to Nirvana. However, sofar at least, visitors’ progress is blocked atthe 16th floor, barely half way up. A spiritualmessage? The interior closes at 5pm.Lower down the hillside lounges a slightlysmaller but still enormous 312ft recliningBuddha. It’s hardly refined and the dark interiorcontains poorly maintained tableaux:enter through the left buttock.Note that both giant Buddhas face west,so for best photos come in the late afternoon.If you’re feeling inspired, the BodhiTataung site hosts many other minor fascinations,including a whole garden of identicalsitting Buddhas under concrete parasols,and the gilded 430ft stupa Aung SetkyaAROUND BAGAN & BAGAN CENTRAL 8MYANMAR 8 AROUND MONYWA

134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in alkaline, subtropical lakes, Spirulina is named for its coiled spiral(or more accurately helix) shape, which you’ll only notice when looking through a microscope.Harvested and dried, Spirulina was once a food-source for Aztec people. Todayit’s a popular dietary supplement said to help reduce cholesterol, lower blood pressureand counter hay fever. In Myanmar, Spirulina is best known as an ingredient of MandalayBrewery’s popular ‘anti-aging’ beer. You can visit a government Spirulina ‘farm’ at TwinDaung and buy a few Spirulina products at the government emporium (see p 21 ), upstairswithin a dowdy Monywa shopping centre.BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND BAGANPaya, which has lovely views from its upperrim (climbed via an inner passageway).Carry your sandals to save your feet fromgravel dents on connecting roads.NORTH OF MONYWAWizened old neem trees and many an attractivestupa enliven the busy, well-paved roadleading north from Monywa. After 19 miles,Budalin is a small junction settlement witha basic noodle-shop, from which it’s stillrather a slog to reach the area’s minor attractions.But you’ll certainly be getting far,far off the tourist radar.Twin DaungCRATER LAKETwin Daung is one of four volcanic craterlakes in Myanmar, from whose swirling greenwaters Spirulina is cultivated (see p 134 ). Youcan visit the lakeside Spirulina factory (admissionfree, h8am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) to see theconcrete cultivation tanks, peer through amicroscope at the algae’s incredible spiralform and see a range of packaged Spirulinabasedproducts (manufactured elsewhereand not for sale here). The palm-frontedlakeside has a certain south-sea charm andviews from the crater rim are very wide withoutbeing enormously spectacular.Access is by a 13km unpaved lane thatdoubles back to the southwest, starting justa few yards after the toll gate as you arrive inBudalin from the south.PayagyiBUDDHIST MONASTERYThe large Payagyi stupa and its oversizedchinthe face an abrupt twin-peaked hill,topped with a stupa and castle-like rocky outcropand said to have an indelible footprintof Bagan-era King Kyanzittha at its base. Nowboxed within concrete walls and tin roof, theempty front prayer hall retains its 170-yearoldteak pillars. Its carved-stone floor tiles,telling Ramayana tales, have been moved forsafe keeping to a museum shed: notice number274 featuring Hanuman (the monkey god)riding a sheep and smoking a cheroot. Thelovable wooden monastery building seemsoversized for five novices, one monk and theyoung abbot (who speaks a little English).It’s 30km from the central junction in Budalin(marked by a golden horseback Bandulastatue, 500m north of the Twin Daungturning), where you veer left. Keep left againafter 3km then continue 22km to Ta Kook TaNel. Turn right after the little row of teahousesthen follow the track 5km to Payagyi. It’sa long way to come for one monastery, butthe rural scenes en route are very attractive,especially along the asphalted first 9km afterBudalin through cottonfields, sunflowersand Palmyra palms to Nyaung Kai/Ywathar,which has a massive Shwezigon pagoda in afield at its southeast edge.WEST OF MONYWAHpo Win Daung BUDDHA CAVE-NICHE COMPLEXfiu"vn'"et;='(admission $2) Monywa’s biggest draw forantiquity-hunters, this rural complex of 492buddha chambers was carved into a limestonehillside between the 14th and 18thcenturies. None of the ‘caves’ are more than afew yards deep, and many are just big enoughfor a single image but a few of the best (notablycaves 478 and 480) have retained somecolourful, well-executed murals. The areais fairly large and there’s no map so somevisitors prefer to engage an informal guide(around K4000) who is likely to be friendlybut not especially informative. Without aguide, just head up and left from the startingpoint and don’t worry – you don’t need toclimb nearly as high as the hilltop stupas thatloom high on the ridge above. Around thecomplex, cheeky monkeys are all too keen tolet you gain merit by donating to them food.Some 700m beyond the restaurants andsouvenir stands of Hpo Win ‘village’ liesShwe Ba Taung (admission $2), a smaller,contrastingly different set of 46 cave cham-

ers accessed from pathways cut around 25feet vertically down into the limestone. Thebuddha images are larger and far newer thanthose of the main site but the intriguing overalleffect is of a Buddhist Disneyland set in aminiature Petra. Squint at Hpo Win Daungas you return and you might see why localsthink the hill looks like a reclining buddha.8 Getting There & AwayThe fastest access to the sites from Monywa isto cross the Chindwin River by boat then continue23km west (the caves are 6km southwest ofthe main Pale road). From Strand Rd in Monywa,simple open-top ferry boats take locals acrossthe Chindwin River for K200 each but foreignersmust charter a whole boat, K2500 each way forup to fi ve people plus K700 per motorbike. Boatsrun approximately 6am to 8pm.Once across, waiting jeeps (carrying up to sixat a pinch) want K15,000 return including waitingtime. Motorbike drivers on the west bankwon’t take foreigners due to the jeep monopolybut you can bring a bike (and driver) across withyou. Renting a chauffeured motorbike costsaround K8000 return (plus boat charges).Visiting by taxi/motor-trishaw from Monywa(K20,000/35,000 return) you’ll need to crossthe big Chindwin Bridge. That adds 9 extra milesbut allows a stop at the brilliantly perched ifbrash Shwe Taung Oo pagoda for 360-degree river and plain views. The route alsopasses some apocalyptic copper-mining shackvillagesbacked by a vast industrial-scale openpit. By motorbike you could go out by boat, backby bridge (K10,000 plus boat charges) and enjoysunset from Shwe Taung Oo.Myingyan¨m='"¨x®%066On the Ayeyarwady River 45 miles north ofNyaung U (towards Mandalay), sprawlingMyingyan (sorta rhymes with ‘engine’) seesvery few travellers, as the major bus routesavoid the bumpier roads that pass throughtown. Some cycling groups pedal through,and occasionally long-distance boats stop atthe Ayeyarwady River docks.Most famous for its big prison, scrappy Myingyanboasts only a couple of slim reasons topause here. About 1 mile east of the bus station,across the railway line, is the Bodhi DatTaw Taik (meaning ‘depository of Buddha’srelics’), where you can see relics (teeth, hair,bone and even skin) of saintly monks downthe ages housed in what was once the walk-insafe of a British colonial bank; you’ll be givena torch to peer at the relics stored in jars inthe gloomy interior.Roughly 1 mile south of the town’s centralmarket, via the north–south Mandalay–Meiktila Rd, is the Soon Lu Kyaung, a smallmonastery where you can see the remains,draped in monastic robes, of the reveredmonk Soon Lu Sayadaw. He died in 1951,though his body is (relatively) well preserved.4Sleeping & EatingOne Star Drive In Inn GUESTHOUSE $(%21389; Myo Pat St, 16th quarter; r per personK8000; a) This odd group of bungalowson a dusty side street is about half a milesoutheast of the bus station. Mattresses arethin, and in the less than appealing attachedbathrooms the showers are cold.New Sein Moe BamawRestaurant CHINESE $$(7/96 8-St; h10am-9pm) A block west of thebusy central market, this serviceable restaurantoffers standard, just edible fried rice,noodles and vegies – most of the patronsseem more interested in downing K600mugs of beer. Next door, on the corner, is theMr Tea teahouse.8Getting There & AwayFrequent buses and pick-up trucks leavefrom the station just east of the Myingyan toMeiktila road, a couple of blocks south of themarket. Services go to Meiktila (back/front seatK1500/3000, three hours, half hourly 4am to2.30pm) and Mandalay (K2000, fi ve hours, eightor nine daily). A pick-up goes to Nyaung U (back/front seat K1500/3000, 2½ hours, 11am).The slow daily train between Mandalay andBagan stops in Myingyan.YANGON–MANDALAYHIGHWAYThere are two routes buses and cars ply betweenYangon and Mandalay: the pot-holedold Hwy No 1, which some call the ‘highroad’ (though it runs west of the Shan Hills);and the new Yangon–Mandalay Expressway,dubbed the ‘big road’. Neither are particularlygorgeous drives but both provide access toa couple of places of interest en route to thenorth: the former capital of Taungoo and themodern-day ‘royal capital’ of Nay Pyi Taw, avisit to which plunges you into the deepestdepths of the bizarre.135YANGON–MANDALAY BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR HIGHWAY SLEEPING MYINGYAN& & EATING

136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAYTHE NEW ROAD TO MANDALAYTaungooet;='=š%054, POP C120,000A busy highway town, Taungoo (also spelledToungoo) is a popular overnight stop forboth tourists and truckers. Sporting severalinteresting temples, a lively central marketand a pretty lake, it has more to keep yourinterest for a couple of hours than any othertown on the Yangon–Mandalay Expressway.A great guesthouse on the town’s outskirtsmakes it easy to stay an extra day, and canalso be used as a base for visiting elephantcamps in the hills to the west.King Mingyinyo founded his capital herein 1510, and his dynasty ruled the countryfor the next 150 years. However, WWIIbombing wrecked most of Mingyinyo’s KatumadiPalace (only sections of the old wallsand moat can still be seen). In celebrationof the town’s 500th anniversary in 2010 acouple of impressive new gates were built,as well as a massive statue of the king, unmissableon the old Yangon-Mandalay road,east of the palace walls.The Karen hills to the east are famed fortheir vegetables and coffee. The area is alsoknown for its bounteous areca (betel) palms.In Myanmar, when someone receives unexpectedgood fortune, they are likened to abetel-lover receiving a paid trip to Taungoo.Kayin State is less than 22 miles eastand Kayah State another 40 miles furthereast. Karen and Kayah insurgents havebeen known to operate within these areas.A dry-weather road continues east all theway to Loikaw, but any travel beyond theSittoung (Sittang) River a couple of mileseast of Taungoo requires special permission.Permission is typically arranged through atravel agent; see p 69 .1Sights & ActivitiesApart from visiting the sights listed below,it’s fun to hire a bike and spend half a daypedalling around the town’s sights and intothe countryside. Bikes can be rented fromBeauty Guest House for K2000 a day.Shwesandaw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEeráz®et;'.ur;"Situated in the centre of town, around500m west of the main road, this is Taungoo’sgrandest pilgrimage spot. The centralstupa, a standard-issue bell shape, is gildedand dates back to 1597; local legend says anearlier stupa on the site was built centuriesbefore and contains sacred-hair relics.Entering from the north, to your right is adisplay of Taungoo kings (and a rather bustyWhen Rudyard Kipling romanticised the road to Mandalay in his famous song, it’s unlikelyhe had in mind the kind of highway – over half a century in the making – that nowlinks Myanmar’s capital of Naw Pyi Taw with the country’s two major cities. Compared tothe old bumpy and tarred 432-mile route between Yangon and Mandalay, this relativelysmooth, concrete four-lane expressway, illuminated by solar-powered lights, is a revelation,slashing the drive time between the two from around 12 hours to eight. However,travel along it, and you’ll rarely see another vehicle.The Yangon–Mandalay Expressway’s emptiness is down to combination of factors, includinghigh tolls, which put off the majority of drivers. The road passes through unpopulatedareas and has a dearth of facilities along its route, making it potentially treacherousshould your vehicle breakdown. Heavy, road-punishing lorries and trucks are barred, butnot long-distance buses, which usually traverse the road at night when its surface iscooler and thus less likely to overtax old engines and threadbare tyres.At the 115-mile mark, just over halfway between Yangon and Nay Pyi Taw, there’s a restcamp (services station) with several good 24-hour restaurants, including Feel Express, abranch of the Yangon dining favourite Feel Myanmar. A hotel is also under construction.The expressway’s origins date back to 1959 when the US provided $37 million in aid toGeneral Ne Win’s first military government, part of which was used for the expressway’sinitial survey by US Army engineers. It takes a long time to build a road when using forcedand manual labour, the main impetus for finishing its construction being the junta’sdesire for faster access to Nay Pyi Taw. However, like many new things in Myanmar, theexpressway is far from flawless. Apparently parts of it flood during the rainy season becauseof a lack of surface drains.

VISITING THE ELEPHANT CAMPS137Myanmar has the largest population of domesticated elephants in the world and is theonly country where they are still used on a large scale in industry – in particular for loggingcarried out under the auspices of the state-owned Myanmar Timer Enterprise (MTE). In amountainous area of Karen villages and teakwood plantations, 35 miles northwest of Taungoo,it’s possible to visit logging camps and see up close working elephants and their oozies(the Myanmar word for mahouts) continuing a pattern of life unchanged for centuries.With at least three days’ notice (two weeks is better), trips of a day or longer can bearranged to this otherwise restricted area through Dr Chan Aye (drchanaye@gmail.com)of the Myanmar Beauty Guest House.Day trips, starting at 6am and returning to Taungoo around 5pm, cost $90 per personfor two people, with prices dropping the larger the group. Included in the rates are thenecessary permits, return transport, a walk into the forest, an elephant ride, a lunch ofrice and curry, and plenty of bottled water. Bamboo rafting and motorbiking in the junglecan be added for additional fees.Overnight trips with a stay in either Shwe Daung or Ngwe Daug, both Karen villages,cost $220 per person; it’s also possible to do this trip and continue onward to Pyay thenext day for $300. The doctor provides free medical service to villagers in the area.queen), and a round building housing a recliningBuddha surrounded by devas (celestialbeings) and monastic disciples.Nearby, on the western side of the stupa,there’s a 12ft bronze, Mandalay-style sittingBuddha, given to the paya in 1912 by a retiredcivil servant who donated his bodyweight in bronze and silver for the casting ofthe image. He died three years after the castingat age 72; his ashes are interred behindthe image.On the east side, there’s a shrine to Thurathati– a goddess borrowed by Buddhistsfrom Hindus – atop a mythical hintha bird.Fine-arts students come to pray to her beforeexams.Myasigon PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE¨mc–'"x®u.ur;"About 250m south of Shwesandaw, off PagodaSt, this lovely modern pagoda featuresa gold zedi and many glass mosaics. On thenorth side, an open building has a fadedmural of Taungoo kings. A nearby squatwhite building is actually a museum (tohave it opened, ask in the pagoda; it usually Kawmudaw Payacosts K1000). The museum has bronze imagesof Erawan (the three-headed elephantwho serves as Indra’s mount) and assortedBuddha images, but is more interestingfor its random secular collection of Britishcolonial-era memorabilia, including an ancientKodak camera, 80-year-old plates anda cream soda bottle.Kandawgyi LakeLAKE/PARKkn'etC'äkI"This pretty ornamental lake dates from thedays when Taungoo (then known as Katumadi)was capital and Bayin Naung ruled.Strolling or cycling around its perimeter,lined with shady trees, is a pleasant way topass an hour or so.While nobody swims in the lake itself, onits eastern (town) side, you’ll find a smallswimming pool (for 2hr K500; h7am-6pm) atthe Evergreen Cafe, which also has friendlyowners.On the lake’s western flank, sandwichedbetween the old palace walls and moat, isthe Kyet Minn Nyi Naung AmusementPark, built by the firm responsible for theneighbouring Royal Katumadi Hotel. Apartfrom various places to eat and drink here,you can play snooker (K1000 per hour) andtennis (K3000 per hour) or hire the karaokeroom (K5000 per hour). There’s a freekids’ playground, but we were told the pedalboats on the lake were ‘not for foreigners’.BUDDHIST TEMPLEekC='"múuetC'.ur;"One of Taungoo’s oldest religious sites, thiscountryside temple is around 1 mile westof the lake through the new Sin Gate Arch.In the temple’s southwest corner, look fora small pillar in a sandbox (with barefootprints) – locals come here and walk aroundit to conquer personal problems.YANGON–MANDALAY BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR HIGHWAY SIGHTS TAUNGOO& & ACTIVITIES

138BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAY4SleepingoMyanmar Beauty GuestHouse II, III & IV GUESTHOUSE $$(%23270, 23527; Pauk Hla Gyi St; fourdoctors@mptmail.net.mm; r in III $10-15, s/d in IV $15/25;a)This three-part, 20-room rural complex atthe edge of town is reason enough to stopin Taungoo. The Beauty has a grab-bag ofrustic, all-wood, bungalow-style rooms.Don’t get confused by the numbers – thehigher the number, the nicer the room. Thespacious IV rooms face the fields and haveair-con and a good hot shower; III is a stepdown, and II is usually used by drivers andguides. Staff are super, as is the wildly localbreakfast, with samosas, sticky rice andexotic fruits – and lots of it. It’s about 1.5miles south of the turnoff from the old Yangon–MandalayHighway into the centre ofTaungoo and is a K1000 to K1500 trishawride from the centre. Myanmar BeautyGuest House I (%23270; 7/134 Bo Hmu PhoKun St; r $10-15), in town, isn’t really worthconsidering.Myanma Thiri Hotel HOTEL $$(%23764; mthirihotel@myanmar.com.mm; MagalarRd; s/d from $25/33; pas) Set a block or soback from the main highway behind thesports field is this old government hotel nowleased to a private company (see p 21 ). Thecheaper rooms, in the British colonial building,are big with overly soft mattresses. Thereare a few deluxe rooms in separate new chaletsand a 20m-long swimming pool in thegrounds.Royal Kaytumadi Hotel HOTEL $$$(%24761; www.kmahotels.com; Royal KaytumadiSt; r $50-65; ais) Hogging the west side ofthe lake is Taungoo’s fanciest option, withvery comfortable rooms and plenty of facilitiesand nice decorative details. The propertyis owned by a businessman affiliatedwith the government (see p 21 ). The samebusinessman also bankrolled the new citygates and giant statue of Mingyinyo erectedto celebrate the city’s 500th anniversary.Mother’s House Hotel HOTEL $$(%24240; mhh@banganmail.net.mm; 501-502Yangon-Mandalay Highway; s/d $20/25; a) This32-room bungalow hotel right on the highwayand a little closer to town than theBeauty grants you 24-hour electricity, satelliteTV and clean and comfy bungalow-stylerooms with wood floors and fudge-and-bananacolour schemes.Hotel Amazing Kaytu HOTEL $$(%23977; www.amazing-hotel.com; 8th St Ohtkyauttan;s/d from $30/35; a) ‘Hotel DependableIf a Little Overpriced & Generic Kaytu’ ismore apt. It’s a bit north of the main turnoff from the old Yangon–Mandalay Highwayinto the centre of Taungoo; its 18 roomsare perfectly fine – with round-the-clockelectricity, satellite TV and plain tiled bathrooms,plus a clock set to Spanish time inthe lobby. The cheapest rooms are stuck atthe back and a little dark.Pun Swe Taw HOTEL $$(%25595; ponswetaw@gmail.com; 8/15 Yangon-Mandalay Highway; s/d $35/40; a) Centrallylocated, this four-storey hotel offers reasonablyclean and big rooms overlooking themoat on the east side of the old city. However,it also suffers from highway traffic noise.5EatingAround Taungoo’s tea shops, try asking foryo yo (normal coffee), which should get youa cup of ‘Taungoo coffee’ (actually it comesfrom the Karen mountains to the east).At the night market, which convenes nextto the central market, vendors specialisein chapattis and meat-stuffed palata (friedflatbread). On the old Yangon–MandalayHighway, particularly to the south, are manyChinese and Myanmar restaurants; the restaurantat Mother’s House Hotel is particularlyinviting.Yagon Food Villa PAN-ASIAN $$(185 Bo Hmu Pho Kun St; dishes K1500-2500;h8.30am-9.30pm) Colourful fake-leather sofasand chairs add a bright note to this reliableoption serving the usual mix of rice andnoodle dishes, with burgers and fish andchips on the menu, too.8InformationArena Net Cafe (Bo Hmu Pho Kun St; per hrK500; h9am-4pm) Arena is next to MyanmarBeauty Guest House 1. Internet cafes are abundant,but don’t expect speedy connections.Dr Chan Aye (%23270; Myanmar BeautyGuest House I) Runs a clinic and speaks goodEnglish.8Getting There & AwayThe 62-mile unpaved logging road from Oktwin(9 miles south of Taungoo) to Pakkhaungprovides a shortcut to Pyay. Foreigners are notallowed to travel along this road unless on atour; Dr Chan Aye (see p 137 ) can make this trip

TRAINS FROM TAUNGOO139DESTINATIONFARE ORDINARY/UPPER ($)DURATION (HR)DEPARTUREMandalay7/17911.18am, 12.15pm, 12.45pmNay Pyi Taw2/632.15pm, 5.24pmThazi4/11511.18am, 12.15pm, 12.45pmYangon5/1378.40am, 11.40am, 1.10pm, 2.15pmwith you, including a one- or two-night stop in avillage or jungle camp along the way (from $300per person for two people, including accommodation,meals and transport).Road travel east across the Sittoung River,towards Loikaw, is also restricted.BusMost buses leaving Taungoo originated elsewhere.Generally stops are at private bus companyoffi ces scattered along the oldYangon–Mandalay Highway, just south of theturn-off to the ‘centre’. It’s easiest to have yourlocal accommodation arrange a seat.Yangon (K3500 to K4300; nine hours; departures7am, 7pm) Buses with and without air-con.Nay Pyi Taw (K1800; 3½ hours; departures7am, 9am, noon, 2pm)Meiktila (K4000; 6½ hours; departure10.30am) Minibus, no air-con.Mandalay (K6500; 10 hours; departure6.30pm) Air-con bus.TrainThe Taungoo train station (%23308) has a militarypresence, following some Karen ‘attacks’ ontrains passing in the night.Nay Pyi Tawen¨p–'etC'%067 / POP C925,000In 2005, following the tradition of Burma’sancient kings, the military relocated Myanmar’scapital to a more strategically centrallocation, about 240 miles north of Yangon. Atuntold expense (some reports have it at over$4 billion), Nay Pyi Taw was built on scrubground amid rice paddies, villages and smalltowns such as Pyinmana on the old Yangon–Mandalay Highway. Most government ministriesand their staff have been relocated here,but with a couple of exceptions the diplomaticcommunity have dug in their heels in Yangon.Absurdly grandiose in scale, Nay Pyi Taw(one translation is ‘Royal City of the Sun’)is a sprawling, shoddily constructed citywith eight-lane highways, 24-hour electricity,and zones for shopping, governmenthousing and hotels, ministry buildings andgenerals’ homes. Apart from the roadblocksthat protect the roads leading to the generals’mansions, ministry buildings and theparliament, it’s surprisingly open. Visits tosome of its sights, including a giant gildedpagoda and a zoo and safari park, allow youto mingle freely with locals while putting adollar or two into the private economy.1SightsYou don’t come to Nay Pyi Taw for the sightsso much as for its surreal atmosphere. Besides,the city is very much a messy work inprogress.If approaching from the new Yangon–Mandalay Expressway, you’ll first enterNay Pyi Taw along the ‘hotel zone’ of YarzaThingaha Rd. At the road’s northern endnear the Thabyaegone roundabout (one ofthe city’s several gigantic, grassy road hubs)is the newly built convention centre, ManiyadanarKyauk Sein Khanma. This is thelocation of the quarterly jade and preciousstones fair, Emporium – about the only timeNay Pyi Taw fills up with visitors. Next dooris the Gems Museum and northeast of theroundabout is the Water Fountain Garden.Continue northeast from here to the YarzaThingaha roundabout and hang a rightto find the Uppatasanti Paya, Nay Pyi Taw’smain sight. If you’re approaching the cityfrom the old Yangon–Mandalay Highwayvia the long-established town of Pyinmana,you’ll hit the golden pagoda first.Be careful where you point your camera inNay Pyi Taw: photography of official buildingsor military officials is prohibited. Thegiant statues of three kings (Alaungpaya,Anawrahta and Bayinnaung), seen in somepublicised photos of Nay Pyi Taw, are in amilitary zone in the hills to the east, and arenot accessible to the public.YANGON–MANDALAY BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR HIGHWAY SIGHTS NAY PYI TAW

140BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAYUppatasanti PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEwp¹:toNÿiectIAn act of merit-making by General ThanShwe and his wife, this 321ft tall golden pagoda– 1ft smaller than Yangon’s ShwedagonPaya – is impressive from afar (especiallywhen illuminated at night), but close up betraysits hasty construction with poor finishes.Nevertheless, the vast interior is lined withsome vivid carved-stone murals depictingthe life and legend of Buddha and key scenesfrom Myanmar’s Buddhist history. Foreignersare supposed to pay a $5 entry charge, but noone asked us for it when we showed up.At the foot of the pagoda’s east side is acovered, open-sided enclosure where twofabled white elephants – 38-year-old Buddawadiand 18-year-old Nandawadi – standchained and munching bamboo. Along withtwo females, who are more dusky pink thanwhite, there’s also a regular two-year-oldblack elephant for comparison. Between10am and 4pm the elephants are unchainedand disappear from public view to roam thegrazing ground to the rear.Zoological Garden & Safari ParkZOOtircü;n'r®u NH=¾' z;f;rIwyY;w'(zoo admission $10, photo charge K2000; h8.30am-8pm Tue-Sun) A good 45-minute drive northeastof the hotel zone (and closer to Pyinmana) arethese animal-focused attractions, both run bythe government. As zoos go, it’s not a badlykept place – many of its inhabitants wereshifted here from Yangon’s decrepit colonialerazoo. Spread across 612 acres are over 80different species of animal, bird and reptile,including hippos, lions, deer, bison, crocodilesand several elephants. There’s also an airconditionedpool house for black-footed andHumboldt penguins, and a planetarium.Next door, more wild beasts roam thesafari park (admission $20; h8.30am-4.30pm),which opened in 2011 and is toured on electriccanopy-covered buggies – you’ll be gladof these in the heat of the day. The 35-acrefacility, home to zebras, rhinos, tigers and apair of giraffes, is divided into sections showcasingthe fauna of Africa, Asia and Australia.Other SightsWater Fountain GardenPARK(admission K200, camera charge K1000; h8.30am-8.30pm) More or less at the heart of Nay PyiTaw is this government-built grassy park,which boasts a viewing platform, water features(perhaps turned on) and cheaply constructedand already crumbling decorativestructures bedecked with twinkling fairylights at night.Gem MuseumMUSEUM(Yarza Thingaha Rd; entrance $5; h9.30am-4.30pmTue-Sun) The one-room exhibition hall at thisgovernment-run museum is a snooze. Havesome fun walking around faster than theattendants who scuttle behind switchingon and off the lights in cabinets displaying,among other things, pearls, rubies, silverware,jade and a big lump of coal. Downstairs,listless jewellers and gem merchantshawk their wares.National MuseumMUSEUMThis new museum was under constructionin the north of the city during our visit;we’re told it’s likely that original pieces currentlyin Yangon will be replaced by copiesand the originals will be moved here.4SleepingForeign visitors must stay in the hotel zonewhere new complexes are sprouting likedaisies next to the villa-style resort AureumPalace and Royal Kumudra, owned by businessesaffiliated with the government (seep 21 ). Forced to build quickly, constructionand decorative standards are woeful andmost places are overpriced. However, a coupleof the smaller places are worth consideringif you decide to overnight.Tungapuri Hotel HOTEL $$(%422 020; www.tungapurihotel.com; 9/10 YarzaThingaha Rd; s/d from $25/35; aW) A Shanconstructor built this small hotel, which hassome appeal. The cheapest rooms are in thebasement, where the singles don’t even havewindows; it’s better to pay an extra $10 ormore for the superior and deluxe rooms onthe upper floors. Staff are very welcoming.Oasis Hotel HOTEL $$(%422 088; oasis.naypyitaw@gmail.com; 12 YarzaThingaha Rd; r/ste $50/200; ai) The moststylish of Nay Pyi Taw’s smaller hotels, theOasis’ suites are overpriced, but do comewith Jacuzzi baths and small kitchenettes.Not open at the time of research, but in theworks, is a fancy Chinese restaurant.5Eating & DrinkingThere’s a cluster of places to eat and drinkatop what is known as Golden Hill, includingthe fancy but quiet Golden Hill Restaurant.At the foot of the hill, in the evenings,food and tea stalls set up shop. There’s also a

couple of places to eat in the Junction mall,where you’ll also find a cinema (K1500).oMaw Khan Nong BAMAR $(Golden Hill; meals K1500; h7am-10pm) Join governmentworkers at this canteen and beerstation with a spacious outdoor terrace. Orderthe good value ‘Bagan bowl’ meal, whichincludes a choice from the menu of one vegetableand two meat dishes plus rice.oSantino INTERNATIONAL $$(Golden Hill; meals K2500-5000; h7am-10pm)The menu at this appealing Western-stylecafé, bakery and restaurant has somethingfor everyone, kicking off with full Americanstylebreakfasts (K4000) and continuingwith things such as burgers, club sandwichesand pizza.Café Flight INTERNATIONAL $$(%422 122; info@skypalace.asia; 3 Yarza ThingahaRd; mains K3500-9000; h8am-10pm) The safestway to board a Myanma Airways planeis to board this one, parked in front of theSky Palace Hotel, and turned into a café-barserving draught Tiger beer (K850), coffee,noodles, pasta and pizza.8Getting There & AwayAirA new international airport is under construction10 miles southeast of the city. The government’sMyanma Airways runs a ‘daily’ fl ight here, but inreality it runs very irregularly.BusesNay Pyi Taw has two bus stations. The closestto the hotel zone is at Mymoma Market, west ofthe Thabayaegone Roundabout. The Bawga Thiribus station is on the Pyinmana side of town,around 1 mile east of Uppatasanti Paya; servicesfrom this station depart for Yangon at 6am, 5pmand 9pm (K5900, fi ve hours) and Mandalay at9pm (K4600, six hours).TrainsSeveral miles northeast of the Uppatasanti Payais the ridiculously massive new train station withan old steam locomotive as decoration out front.There are trains to Yangon and Mandalay:Yangon (sleeper/ordinary/upper $21/19/7; nineto 10 hours; departures 6am, 9.10am)Mandalay (sleeper/ordinary/upper $17/15/7;six to seven hours; departures 2.15pm, 9.15pm)8Getting AroundNya Pyi Taw is no place for walking and there’snothing approaching a public bus service. Thebest way around is by private car, taxi or privatemotorbike taxis. From the bus and train stationsto the hotel zone costs around K5000 by taxi.Four hours by motorbike taxi around the cityfrom Pyinmana should cost you around K10,000.Nay Pyi Taw Taxi & Car Rental Services(%414 994, 09-4921 0613) Run by governmentaffiliatedMax Myanmar group; see p 21 .MeiktilamitIÏl;%064This attractive lakeside town, on the crossroadsbetween Yangon, Mandalay, Baganand Inle Lake, is a busy little trade centrewith plenty of locals in uniform issued fromthe air-force bases outside town. It’s not terriblyexciting, but a bike ride around thelake can be fun – and you can peek at theold British officers’ house where Aung SanSuu Kyi and Michael Aris honeymooned.Legend goes that King Anawrahta, founderof Bagan, had a pond here broadened into thecurrent lake that looms west of town. Whenthe king asked if the lake extended all the wayto Mt Popa, the report came back: ‘Lord, itdoesn’t go that far.’ The name ‘Meiktila’ is anabbreviation of that bad-news report.Between February and March 1945, theBritish killed 20,000 Japanese soldiers basedhere in the final WWII battle for control ofBurma. Much of the city was flattened. Sadlythat trend has continued: town-engulfing firesdevastated the city in 1974 and 1991; anotherbig one took out several buildings in 2003.1SightsLake Meiktila is the town’s premier attraction.There are no boating options, but youcan cycle around some of it. Between the roadand rail bridges, west of the city centre, youwon’t miss Phaung Daw U Paya, a templehoused in a giant floating barge shaped in theform of a golden Karaweik, a mythical bird.Cross the road bridge to reach the woodenpier leading to the pretty Antaka YelePaya, a small pagoda perched on an islandin the lake. Back on the main road is anAung San statue.About 270yd southwest of the bridge is abuilding that was once a British colonialdiplomat house. The building was used asan interrogation centre by the Japanese inWWII, and many years later Aung San SuuKyi and Michael Aris honeymooned here.The house is to the east of the LakesideWunzin Hotel.141YANGON–MANDALAY BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR HIGHWAY 8 MEIKTILA8

142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups toMyingyan##›Htee Thone # Ú BusSint Paya StationClock #áTower0 0.1 milesB1# AsiaWorldMeiktilaæ Sights1 Antaka Yele Paya.................................A32 Phaung Daw U Paya ............................A2ÿ Sleeping3 Honey Hotel .........................................B3BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAYTo Aung Sanstatue (160m);Lakeside WunzinHotel‚(300m)23‚LakeMeiktila2#Ú# Ú 1To ShweKyaung (1 mi)AMarket# ü 5Mandalay-YangonHighway3 #ÿ# ú4Train#£StationA mile around the west end of the lake,Shwe Kyaung is a walled monastery on theinland side of the road with Japanese signsleading to a WWII monument that Britishand Japanese survivors put up in 1972.Monks will show you around. Just past themonument, a picturesque path leads betweenthe lake and (usually) flooded ricefields.Don’t keep going to the south side of thelake, as the path leads into the no-go zone ofa military compound.4SleepingHoney Hotel HOTEL $$(%25755, 23588; Panchan St; r $10-30;a) Righton the lake in town, this converted mansionis Meiktila’s best bet. If available, opt forroom G2, which has views directly across thelake. Newly built, more expensive rooms atthe front of complex substitute fresh paint,linens and TVs for the lack of lake view.Lakeside Wunzin Hotel HOTEL $$(%23848, 23559; 49A Than Lwin Rd; economy/superior/deluxes $8/24/30, d $12/30/36;a) Showingits years, the pricier, huge rooms hereoverlook the lake from a quiet backstreetout of the centre. Staff are happy to join youfor tennis on the scrappy court outside.B23ú Eating4 Shwe Ohn Pin.......................................B3ü Drinking5 Gold Rain Tea Center ..........................B35Eating & DrinkingMeiktila’s not much for fancy eats.Shwe Ohn Pin CHINESE $$(Mandalay-Yangon Rd; dishes K2500-4500; h7am-10pm) This clean tiled restaurant, located inthe centre, hands you an English menu forits tasty Chinese and Myanmar dishes.Golden Rain Tea Center TEAHOUSE $(tea K200; h5am-9.30pm) This popular place,just off the Mandalay–Yangon Rd, has all theusual milky, sweet drinks and filling chickenor pork steamed buns. Mix with locals at thelow tables shielded by a rattan roof cover.8Getting There & AwayBusesExpress buses zooming between Yangon andMandalay stop on the road east of the clocktower (and not at the local bus station). Alongthis road you’ll fi nd half a dozen ticket-salesshops, including Asia World (%09-4301 1348)opposite the Thiri Minglar Mosque.Buses from Meiktila go to the following destinations:Bagan (K6000, fi ve hours, daily at 4pm),Lashio (K9000, eight hours, two daily), Magwe(K5500, eight hours, four daily), Mandalay(K2000, three to four hours, several daily), NayPyi Taw (K2000, three to four hours, several daily)and Yangon (K8500, 10 to 12 hours, three daily)Pick-Up TrucksFrom the bus station, pick-ups for Taunggyi(K2500 to K4000, six hours) leave regularly,stopping in Kalaw for the same price.Pick-ups for Myingyan (K4000, 2½ hours)leave regularly from the main road in front of theHtee Thone Sint Paya, north of the clock tower.TrainThere’s a small train station in town, catchingslow trains heading east–west. A more usefulstation is in Thazi, about 16 miles east, at the

crossroads of the Yangon, Mandalay and Taunggyilines.YANGON–BAGANHIGHWAYThis western route north of Yangon to Baganis less heavily trafficked than the Yangon–Mandalay Expressway. Sometimes called the‘low road’, or ‘Pyay Hwy’, this route is debatablymore attractive than the old Yangon–Mandalay Highway. It follows the easternbank of the Ayeyarwady River and rises overlovely hills and valleys north of Magwe. AtPyay, connections to Thandwe (and Ngapali)head west over the mountains.Pyay (Prome)¨p–'%053With a breezy location on the AyeyarwadyRiver, Pyay is the most interesting stop onthe Yangon–Bagan Highway. The city’s glorydays date back to the ancient Pyu capitalof Thayekhittaya, the partially excavatedremains of which lie 5 miles east of Pyay’sother stellar attraction: the dazzling ShwesandawPaya.Myanmar folk alternate the town’s pronunciationbetween ‘pyay’ and ‘pyi’. TheBrits, apparently, couldn’t deal with the confusionand called it Prome.The current town site became an importanttrading centre during the Bagan era.The Mon controlled it when King Alaungpayaconquered it in 1754. Pyay boomed, alongwith the British Irrawaddy Flotilla Companyin the 1890s. Today, it remains an importanttransit point for goods between northernand southern Myanmar. Soak up its livelyatmosphere along the riverfront and at theroundabout, at the centre of which is a gildedequestrian statue of Aung San.1SightsShwesandaw Paya & Around BUDDHIST TEMPLEeráz®et;'.ur;"Set on top of a hill in the town centre, thestunning Shwesandaw Paya (and the surroundingpagodas and monasteries) is notonly Pyay’s major point of interest, but alsoone of the country’s biggest Buddhist pilgrimagesites. Just over 1yd taller than themain zedi at Yangon’s Shwedagon, the Shwesandawstupa follows the classic Bamar designseen at Bagan’s Shwezigon (p 164 ).Legend goes that it was built in 589 BC,and that the golden zedi houses four strandsof the Buddha’s hair (the Golden Hair Relics).Atop the zedi are two hti (umbrella-likepinnacles), unusual for Myanmar. The lower,bigger one dates from Pyay’s days as a Moncity. The higher, smaller one was added byKing Alaungpaya as a symbol of peace betweenhis realm and the Mon, after brutallycapturing the city in 1754. In the southwestcorner of the complex, the Sacred ToothHall is said to house an original tooth fromthe Buddha. It’s in the golden bell (locked)behind the glass. The locks come off once ayear for the November full-moon festivities.The panoramic views from the pagodaare pretty great too. To the east, you’ll seethe Sehtatgyi Paya (Big Ten Storey), a giant(maybe not 10 storeys, though) seatedBuddha, eye-to-eye with the Shwesandawand watching over it. The smaller gold stupaon the highest hill southeast of Shwesandawis the Wunchataung Paya (Apology MountainPagoda), where people can say ‘sorry’for misdeeds. They get the best view ofShwesandaw and the mountains across theriver while they’re at it. You can reach it viaSehtatgyi Rd, east of the Shwesandaw.Central MarketMARKETFollow Strand Rd north of a morning tocatch all the action at the lively and colourfulcentral market which spreads over severalblocks. As you approach, you’ll pass anornate Chinese Temple dedicated to thegoddess Guan Yin on the corner of Ya YokeTann St. A little further on are giant clay waterpots and a row of thanakha wood sellers.Continue along the riverside north of themarket to find the Shwepaliamaw Paya.Payagyi PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE.ur;"äkI"Once marking one of Thayekhittaya’s fourcorners, this towering pagoda is a half-mileeast of the bus station. It probably datesfrom the 5th or 6th century AD. Three terracesencircle the slightly swollen, breastlikestructure from its base; ‘ladies’ are not allowedon the upper one. The modern hti islit up at night.4SleepingAll of the following options include breakfastin the price.143YANGON–BAGAN & CENTRAL HIGHWAY MYANMAR SIGHTS SIGHTS PYAY (PROME)

144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–BAGAN HIGHWAYPyay123A ‚To CentralMarket (150m)# ß6#£6# ú7Ayeryarwady RiverMerchant St## ÿ3#ò # ð# ðFire #æBrigade# ú 6 Aung San#á Statue# ú 8# ÿ 2ÿ#4Kan StStrand RdBazaar StMya ZayTann StA‚9Pyay-Yangon RdSwe Nwee Payar StMadaw RdTat St5# ÿoLucky Dragon HOTEL $$(%24222; http://luckydragon.com; 772 Strand Rd;r $30-40; paWs) Leaving all other towncentre hotels standing, this enclave of modern,bungalow-style, wood-floored roomsacross from the river is reasonably pricedand has pleasant, helpful staff. Another plusis the small pool, long enough for a few coolinglaps after touring Pyay’s sights.Smile Motel HOTEL $(%22523, 25169; 10-11 Bogyoke Rd; r $18; a) Thelong corridor leading to the simply furnishedrooms may have a shabby carpet andremind you of The Shining, but it’s all prettyclean and the staff are nice, if a bit surprisedat your existence.Mingalar Garden Resort HOTEL $$(%28662; Flying Tiger Garden, Aung Chan ThaQuarter; s/d standard $30/36, superior $36/42;ai) Near Payagyi Paya and closer toThayekhittaya than the Ayeyarwady River,this quiet garden complex of spacious bungalowsis set in the grounds of a formercheroot manufacturer. It’s worth springinga few extra dollars for the more modernsuperior rooms, all of which overlook anornamental lake.BTo Southern Star (800m);Nawade Bridge (800m)BTikyutson StBogyoke RdElevators# ÚShwesandawPayaHliang Gatt StCC‚0 500 m#e 0 0.25 milesD1To Bus Station (1.5 mi);Payagyi Paya (2 mi);Mingalar Garden Resort (2.2 mi);Thayekhittaya (5 mi)Sethatgyi RdBogyoke Rd# ÚSehtatgyiPaya# Ú 1Myat Lodging House HOTEL $(%25695; 222 Bazaar St; r $6-12; a) This smallback-street guesthouse has well-loved butsimple rooms (green carpet, writing desks)a block from the Pyay ‘action’. The cheapestrooms have fan and shared bathroom(which are kept clean); only the highestpricedrooms come with a private bathroom.Friendly English-speaking staff give outmaps of Pyay and Thayekhittaya.Pyay Strand Hotel HOTEL $$(%24874; Strand Rd; r standard/superior $25/35;a) Offers 32 simple rooms similar to Smile’s,which are thus overpriced compared toLucky Dragon. Higher-priced rooms get hotwater and look out over the river.5Eating & DrinkingThe night market on Mya Zay Tann St, betweenthe Aung San statue and the river, isatmospheric and well worth browsing for itscheap eats.oGrandma Café KOREAN, INTERNATIONAL $$(Mya Zay Tann Rd; dishes K1500; h8am-10pm)Owner Banyar Aung learned to make Koreanfood while working at various restaurantsin Kuala Lumpur, then returned homeand taught his wife. Together they run thisDS etha‚tgyi Rd23

Pyayæ Top SightsSehtatgyi Paya.....................................D2Shwesandaw Paya...............................C2æ Sights1 Wunchataung Paya .............................D3ÿ Sleeping2 Lucky Dragon.......................................A23 Myat Lodging House ........................... A14 Pyay Strand Hotel ...............................A25 Smile Motel ..........................................B2ú Eating6 Grandma Café......................................A27 Hline Ayar Restaurant.........................A2Night Market ................................ (see 6)8 Pyay Star Restaurant..........................B2ï Transport9 IWT Office.............................................A3cute place that turns out very tasty dolsotbibimbap and kimchi ramen, along withless adventurous dishes such as sandwiches,burgers and pasta.Southern Star CHINESE $$(%25484; Strand Rd; dishes K4000-5000; h10am-11pm) Enjoy river views from the terrace ofthis big restaurant serving good food, closeby the Nawade Bridge. In the eveningsthere’s karaoke, unless it’s a weekend whenthey screen English Premier League soccermatches.Pyay Star Restaurant CHINESE $$(cnr Bogyoke Rd & Pyay-Yangon Rd; dishes fromK1800-3000) The Star is a great spot: a twofloorbeer hall with plenty of buzz and a balconyon which to eat tasty Chinese fare anddown draught Myanmar beer or ABC stout.Hline Ayar CHINESE, MYANMAR $$(Strand Rd; dishes veg K1200, meat K2800-4000,fish K3000-6500; h9am-9pm) Over on the river,this live-music spot shows its years (pluscheesy pop singers at 7pm), but it has tableslooking over the Ayeyarwady.8InformationCosmic (Kan St; per hr K400; h7.30am-11pm)For internet, try here. It’s in the same buildingas a cinema.My Space Another internet provider; across theroad from Cosmic.8Getting There & AwayBoatRoutes along the Ayeyarwady River start andstop in Pyay, heading either north or south. Fewforeigners use either service.The IWT office (%24503; Strand Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is helpful on ever-changing timesfor slow-going government ferries. At researchtime, a ferry left at 5.30am on Wednesday forMandalay (deck/cabin $9/18, about fi ve days),and another cargo boat left Tuesday night forYangon (deck/cabin $9/18; about three days).BusPyay is located at the junction of roads to Yangon,Bagan and Thandwe (for Ngapali Beach).The highway bus station is about two miles eastof the centre (just off Bogyoke Rd).Several companies run buses to Yangon(K4100, seven hours) throughout the day, includingAsia Express (%28145). There are nodirect buses north to Bagan from Pyay, but youcan catch a bus that left from Yangon for the fullYangon–Bagan fare (K15,000 to K18,000, 12 to13 hours). Or take the 8.30am bus run by SunMoon (%09-4950 0521) to Magwe (K4100, sixto seven hours), from where a 6am or 7am busthe next day leaves for Bagan.Heading to Ngapali by bus is possible, but notterribly convenient. Thile Lone Kyaw run minibusesto Taunggok (K10,000, 11 hours) leavingat 5pm.TrainA lone daily train leaves Pyay’s central train stationat 11.30pm for Yangon (sleeper/upper/1st/ordinary class $14/13/10/5, 8½ hours). FromShwethekar station, 3 miles east of the citytowards Thayekhittaya, you can also board theYangon to Bagan train as it takes a three-minutepause at 10pm (sleeper/upper/1st $28/26/23),before arriving in Bagan 8am; the Bagan to Yangontrain arrives at 2.30am, before continuingon to Yangon.8Getting AroundTrishaws and blue taxi pick-up trucks are themain ways of getting around. A trishaw ride to/from the bus station is around K1000, and K1500by blue taxi. A regular pick-up truck service runsalong Bogyoke Rd to the bus station (K200).Around PyayTHAYEKHITTAYAserextËr;It’s no Bagan, but this ancient site (admission$5, incl museum $10; h8am-5pm), about 5miles east of Pyay centre, can make for a fun145YANGON–BAGAN & CENTRAL HIGHWAY MYANMAR 8 8 AROUND PYAY

146BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–BAGAN HIGHWAYBUSSING IT ACROSS THE BAGO YOMAVictoria Tofiq and John Greenhalgh, British travellers we met in Ngapali in 2011, told usabout their overland journey from Pyay via Taunggok, which took 18 hours and involvedthree changes of transport:VT: When we went to Pyay bus station, the people pointed to a picture of a minibus. Wefound a tiny van seating just eight.JG: They were worried about my height – it was very uncomfortable, impossible to sleep in.VT: There were 10 checkpoints on the road between Pyay and Taunggok – our guesthousein Pyay prepared 10 photocopies of our passports and visas for the driver to handout at each one. We arrived at the final checkpoint very early in the morning, so had towait several hours until it opened at 4.30am.JG: When it did open, we found we could have easily walked from there to Taunggok busstation! We decide to continue on to Ngapali when we found a big open-top pick-up truckleaving at 7am for Thandwe – that cost K2500.VT: It was packed with people and piled with sacks of produce, but had lots of atmosphere.We saw the sunrise and drove past beautiful landscapes and waving children.JG: At Thandwe we boarded a smaller pick-up that brought us to Ngapali for K2000 each.VT: The road was bumpy all the way, so we didn’t sleep and it was very tiring – it’s reallyroughing it! But it was also the most interesting journey of our visit. And Ngapali is abeautiful place at which to recover.few hours of laid-back exploration, often inisolation. Known to Pali-Sanskrit scholars asSri Ksetra (Fabulous City), Thayekhittaya isan enormous Pyu city that ruled in the areafrom the 5th to 9th centuries AD. Local legendlinks its origin to the mythical King Duttabaung,who supposedly worked with ogresand other supernatural creatures to buildthe ‘magical city’ in 443 BC. The earliest Paliinscriptions found here date back to the 5thor 6th centuries.Seeing the 5.5-sq-mile site means eitherwalking the 7.5-mile loop around it orhopping on the back of an ox-drawn cart(K5000; 3hr) for a bumpy, dusty journey pastthe spaced-out temples, most just outsidethe oval city walls. It’s a good idea to have aknowledgeable guide as well. Bicycles aren’tpermitted. Note that the site and museumfees go to the government (see p 21 ).1SightsAt the entrance to the site is the small, government-runSri Ksetra Museum (admission$5; hTue-Sat 10am-4pm) with its posted mapof the area and various artefacts from excavations,including Hindu deities, 6th-centuryBuddha images, Pyu beads and silver coins.Behind the museum to the south, theroad soon follows the remains of the old palacewalls. Ox-cart drivers – at a speed thatebbs and flows according to the mood of theox – make a counterclockwise loop of the followingsites.The first stop will be at a recent excavation:a large brick building that is thought to havebeen a palace. After 2.5 miles or so, the roadpasses Rahanta Gate, where fragments of theovergrown brick gate run alongside the dirtroad. Immediately south is the Rahanta cavetemple, thought to date to the Bagan periodand last repaired in the 1920s, with eight Buddhaimages lined along the south wall.About a mile south, the Bawbawgyi Paya(Big Grandfather Stupa) is Thayekhittaya’smost impressive site: a 50yd cylindrical stupawith a golden hti on its top. It’s amongthe oldest and least obviously renovated Pyusights, dating back to the 4th century. It’sthe prototype of many Myanmar pagodas.Two-hundred yards northeast is the smallercube-shaped Bebe Paya, which has acylindrical top and a few Buddha images inside;its thought to date to the 10th century.Just north is the squat Leimyethna Paya,which has a visible iron frame keeping it together.Inside four original Buddha reliefs (abit cracked, some faces missing) are visible.On either side of the roads around here, lookout for long ruts in the ground; they wereonce brick moats.A couple of hundred yards to the north isa fork in the road: to the right (north) is atin-roofed cemetery; to the left (west), on

the way to ‘Thaungpye Mound’, is the better(but bumpier) way back to the museum.Take the left and after half a mile you’llpass by a gap in the 3m-thick city walls,which has become a gate. Continue anothermile, through a booming farming village ofthatch huts, with piles of radishes and otherproduce. Towards the north end of the villageis the 13th-century East Zegu Paya,a small four-sided temple with overgrownwalls and (usually) locked doors. It’s off themain road, but is worth visiting for the walkpast the fields and farmers.8 Getting There & AwayThe turn-off here is a couple of miles east ofPayagyi Paya. A return taxi between Thayekhittayaand Pyay should cost about K10,000. Nodirect pick-up truck connects the Pyay towncentre with the site. You can bike to the site, butnot around it.MEET THE FAMILY SIMON RICHMONDSHWEDAUNGeráet;='This small town about 9 miles south ofPyay, via the road to Yangon, contains thefamous Shwemyetman Paya (Paya of theGolden Spectacles), a reference to the large,white-faced sitting buddha inside the mainshrine. The buddha wears a gargantuan setof eyeglasses with gold-plated rims. Comingsouth from Pyay, the turn-off for Shwemyetmanis located on the right-hand side ofthe road; a green-and-white sign in Englishreads ‘Shwe Myet Hman Buddha Image – 1Furlong’.Spectacles were first added to the imageduring the Konbaung era, when a noblemanoffered them to the temple in anattempt to stimulate local faith through curiosity.Word soon spread that the bespectacledbuddha had the power to cure allills, especially afflictions linked to the eyes.The first pair of spectacles was stolen at anearly stage, and a second pair was madeand enshrined inside the image to protectit from thieves.An English officer stationed in Pyay duringthe colonial era had a third pair fittedover the buddha’s eyes after his wife sufferedfrom eye trouble and the abbot suggestedsuch a donation. Naturally, as the story goes,she was cured. (This pair is now in a smallshrine to the right of the image.)On the southern side of Shwedaung,about 3 miles from Shwemyetman, is theattractive hilltop Shwenattaung Paya(Golden Spirit Mountain), which reportedlydates back to the Thayekhittaya era.Among the many images of buddha is a sereneone carved from marble. A large payapwe (pagoda festival) is held here each yearon the full moon of Tabaung (February/March).To get to Shwedaung, hop on a pick-uptruck headed towards Yangon. Pick-uptrucks leave frequently from the Pyay busstation and pass by the Aung San statue beforehitting the highway.AKAUK TAUNGaek;k'et;='Carved into cliffs overlooking the Ayeyarwady,about 19 miles downstream fromPyay, are dozens of buddha images at Akauk‘My name is Ku Tan Swe and this is my husband U Aye Cho, my brother U Ken Lu andmy sister Luin Luin May; she’s 82.’ Sitting demurely behind a dusty table in the big, highceilingedentrance room, the old lady peered kindly at me through her circular glasses,not in the least bit fazed by having a perfect stranger drop by unexpectedly. A momentbefore I’d been outside taking a photograph of their home, a grand 1924 mansion a fewblocks south of the Shwemyetman Paya in Shwedaung, when Ku Tan Swe – one of theseveral people who lived there – invited me inside.Pointing at one of the many framed sepia photos hanging on the walls, Ku Tan Swecontinued with the introductions. ‘That’s my grandfather U Aung Kyw – he built thishouse.’ She then turned to the opposite wall to indicate the portrait of her grandmotherDohla. U Aung Kyw was a talented man: another of his fancy colonial-mansion creations,built in 1926, can be seen a block south of the Shwemyetman Paya.Looking around, I noticed another fading, crumbling image, this one in colour and ofan English-looking woman in army uniform. ‘Is that another relation?’ I asked. ‘No, it’sElizabeth’, replied U Ken Lu laughing. Taking a closer look, I saw it was, indeed, PrincessElizabeth, now the Queen.147YANGON–BAGAN & CENTRAL HIGHWAY MYANMAR 8 8 AROUND PYAY

148BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–BAGAN HIGHWAYTaung (Tax Mountain). The mountain isnamed for the crafty toll-takers from themid-19th century, who spent the hours betweentaxing boats by carving reclining andmeditating buddhas into the steep cliff.To get there, you’ll need to taxi across theAyeyarwady to Htonbo (q®u".iurâC), a villageabout 90 minutes by road from Pyay, thenhire a boat (about K15,000) for the 45-minutelook. To do so, you must bring a copy of yourpassport or visa to show the strict immigrationofficers in Htonbo.For some visitors, it’s too much travel forminimal payoff. A return taxi to Htonbofrom Pyay (sometimes with Shwedaungthrown in) takes around two hours one-wayand costs about $20.Magwemekâ"%063About 155 miles north of Pyay and 93 milessouth of Salay, Magwe’s locale on the AyeyarwadyRiver is nice enough, as is the impressive1.8-mile Magwe Bridge. Beyond this,however, it’s a place of dilapidated buildingsrunning along a confusing web of leafystreets and limited services, and not particularlygood accommodation. Still, if you’retravelling along the bumpy road connectingBagan and Pyay, you’ll probably wantto break your journey here and the stretchyour legs around the ‘sights’.Famously, the capital of Magwe Divisionsat out of the 1988 prodemocracy marches.1SightsMagwe’s chief pagoda, the 1929 Mya ThaLun Paya, a mile north of the bridge, featuresa gilded stupa and occupies a hilltopsite with great river views.Just across the river, about the same distancenorth of the bridge, is Minbu and thefun Nga Ka Pwe Taung (Dragon Lake), aburping pool of butane gas and mud thathas (over the years) built a few acres oflunar-like terrain with bubbling pools atopfour odd mounds. The sludge isn’t hot; ifyour toes slip in, wash them off below at asmall pagoda. The largest mound is namedThu Sei Ta and the second largest Nanda, forthe mythical Dragon King’s daughter andson, respectively. It’s about a 30-minute taxiride here from the centre.4Sleeping & EatingSein San Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $(%23799; B-185 16th St, Ywathit Quarter; r $15, s/dwith shared bathroom $8/12; a) Very simple,with stone floors, mint-green walls and thinmattresses on the beds. But the staff arefriendly and speak English and the price isappropriate. It’s on a quiet backstreet, midwaybetween the bus station and the river.Htein Htein Tar HOTEL $$(%23499; 234 17th St, Ywathit Quarter; s/d $25/40;a) Around the corner from the Sein San.Laughably overpriced, this motel-like placeoffers big but tatty rooms.Rolex Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%23536; cnr Mya Than Lun Rd & AyeyarwadyBridge; s/d with air-con K10,000/18,000, with fanK8000/12,000; a) This bare-bones guesthouse,on the roundabout facing the bridgeentry, has simple concrete-floored roomswith cold-water bathrooms attached. It’seasy to find, but suffers from traffic noise.Central Restaurant CHINESE $$(Pyitawthar Rd; dishes K2000-4000; h7am-10pm)Handy for the bus station, this reasonablyclean-looking Chinese restaurant serves theusual noodle and rice dishes, including hotand sour chicken. It’s next to the Zin YawGuesthouse, which doesn’t accept foreigners.Monalizar 2 CHINESE, BAMAR $$(dishes from K1500; h7am-10pm) On the river,just south of the bridge, this is a very populardrinking spot that also serves passable food.As the sun dips across the river, locals (mostlyguys) hit the beer and whisky as a crew of11 start up the 7pm music and dance show.8Getting There & AroundMagwe’s highway bus station is about 1.5 mileseast of the central market. Yangon-bound busesalso stop in Pyay, but you’ll still need to pay thefull fare to Yangon even if you get off there. Busesfrom Magwe go to the following destinations:Nyaung U (K6000, four hours, departure 6am or7am), Pyay (K4000, seven hours, departure 9am),Yangon (K7500, 12 hours, departure 5.30pm) andMandalay (K5500, 10 hours, departure 6.30pm).IWT ferries between Pyay and Mandalay stopin Magwe. The IWT office (%21503) is one blocktowards the river from the market’s north side.Motorised trishaws – with room for you and afew mates – tout their services at the bus station.A ride from the station to Nga Ka Pwe Taungand a stop at Monalizar 2 costs about K8000.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdTemples of BaganHistory . . . . . . . . . . . . .150The Temples . . . . . . . . 153Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . .154North Plain . . . . . . . . .156Central Plain . . . . . . . .159Myinkaba Area . . . . . . 161New Bagan Area . . . . .163South Plain . . . . . . . . .163Nyaung U Area . . . . . .164Best TempleMurals» Upali Thein (p 158 )» Nandamannya Pahto(p 164 )» Payathonzu (p 164 )» Ananda Ok Kyaung (p 158 )» Abeyadana Pahto (p 162 )Best Sunset Spots» Shwesandaw Paya (p 159 )» Buledi (p 158 )» Pyathada Paya (p 160 )» Thabeik Hmauk (p 160 )» Tan Kyi Paya (p 155 )Why Go?Marco Polo, who may or may not have visited on his travels,described Bagan as ‘one of the finest sights in the world’.Despite centuries of neglect, looting, erosion, regular earthquakes(including a massive one in 1975), not to mentionquestionable restoration, this temple-studded plain remainsa remarkably impressive and unforgettable vision.In a 230-year building frenzy up until 1287 and the Mongolinvasions, Bagan’s kings commissioned over 4000 Buddhisttemples. These brick and stucco religious structuresare all that remain of their grand city, with the 11th to 13thcentury wooden buildings having long gone.Many restoration projects have resulted in a compromisedarchaeological site that can barely be described as inruins. Often the restorations bear little relation to the buildingstyles and techniques used at the time of original construction.Still, Bagan remains a wonder. Working templeslike Ananda Pahto, give a sense of what the place was like atits zenith, while others conceal colourful murals and hiddenstairways that lead to exterior platforms and jaw-droppingviews across the plain.When to GoBang in the midst of the ‘dry zone’, Bagan is hot. Avoidsizzling March to May and visit in ‘cooler’ November toFebruary, the peak travel season. The rainy season (Juneto October) sees fewer visitors but is still pretty steamy. Ifyou're interested in local religious rites, music and dance,time your visit to coincide with the festival lasting severalweeks at Ananda Pahto in January.Plan your daily temple viewing around a dawn/dusk itinerary,building in a leisurely lunch/siesta/poolside loungingsession from around 12.30pm to 4pm. Temperatures at duskand dawn will be more pleasant and the light is better forphotographs.

150HistoryPer Pali inscriptions found here, Bagankings apparently flirted with a couple ofdifferent city names during its heyday: Arimaddanapura(City of the Enemy Crusher)and the less dramatic Tambadipa (CopperLand). The name Bagan may in fact derivefrom Pyugan, a name first written down bythe Annamese of present-day Vietnam in themid-11th century as Pukam. The British inthe 19th century called the site ‘Pagan’ while0 1 km0 0.5 milesNyaung UAyeyarwady RiverSchwezigonPayaTEMPLES OF BAGANTo Tan Kyi(3mi)Old BaganShwesandawPayaAbeyadanaPahtoMyinkabaNew BaganThiripyitsayaVillageYeosinCreekAnandaPahtoUpaliTheinWetkyi-inNorth PlainBagan-Chauk RdBagan-Anawrahta RdNyaung U RdBulediWetkyi-inCreekCentral PlainManu KanThabeikSulamani HmaukPahtoDhammayangyiPahtoSouth PlainWest PwasawThuhekanMinnanthuNyaung U-Kyaukpadaung RdEast PwasawTettheMinnanthuKanKontangyiTemples of Bagan Highlights1 Marvel at the perfectlyproportioned Ananda Pahto(p156 ), which houses fourgiant buddha statues carvedfrom teak2 Speculate over whatlies inside the bricked-upinner sanctum of mysteriousDhammayangyi Pahto(p159 )3 Take in all the coloursof the sunset fromShwesandaw Paya (p159 )or Buledi (p 158 ), or enjoythe spectacle, minus thecrowds, at Thabeik Hmauk(p 160 )4 Admire the intricatemurals decoratingUpali Thein (p158 ) andAbeyadana Pahto (p 162 )5 Get acquainted with the37 Nats at the beautiful zediShwezigon Paya (p 164 ) inNyaung U6 Hire a private boat tocross the Ayeyarwady andmake the trip to Tan KyiPaya (p 155 ), a gilded stupaproviding sweeping viewsback towards Bagan7 Inspect the fineinternal ornamental workof Sulamani Pahto (p 160 ),a temple known as theCrowning Jewel

KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence from the remains of Pyu-style buildings are the earliest indication of asettlement on this bend in the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy).1057 Temple building speeds up with the sacking of the Mon city of Thaton by Bagan’swarrior king Anawrahta, a newly enthusiastic devotee of Buddhism.c 1100-70 Temples become bigger and are better lit by broader windows, with more of aneye to vertical proportions than horizontal lines.c 1170-1280 Bagan’s late period of architecture sees more intricate pyramidical spires oradorning tile work added to the buildings, with an increased Indian influence.1287 Bagan’s decline is accelerated when the Mongols over-run the area, the Bamarhaving possibly abandoned the city already.1975 An earthquake registering 6.5 on the Richter scale hits Bagan; many temples aredamaged, but major reconstruction starts almost immediately with help of Unesco.1990 Military forcibly relocate a village that had grown up in the 1970s in the middle ofthe walled area of ‘Old Bagan’ to 4km south of the main archaeological zone.1996 Bagan placed on Unesco World Heritage Tentative List.1998 Over US$1 million collected from local donations for the restoration of Bagan.2008 An imaginary recreation of the 13th-century Bagan Palace is opened on a siteopposite that of the original palace.2011 Indian government pledges $22 million for the restoration of Ananda Pahto.the military junta switched it back to Baganin 1989.GLORY DAYSBagan’s two and a half centuries of templebuilding (from the 11th century to the 13thcentury) coincided with the region’s transitionfrom Hindu and Mahayana Buddhistbeliefs to the Theravada Buddhist beliefsthat have since characterised Myanmar.Legend has it that the main players werethe monk Shin Arahan who came (sent byManuha, the Mon king of Thaton; moreon him in a bit) to convert Bamar KingAnawrahta. To call his quest a success wouldbe a landmark understatement. Inspired byhis new faith, Anawrahta ordered Manuhato give him a number of sacred Buddhisttexts and relics. When Manuha naturally refused,Anawrahta marched his army southand took everything worth carrying back toBagan, including 32 sets of the Tripitaka (theclassic Buddhist scriptures), the city’s monksand scholars and, for good measure, KingManuha himself.The self-assured Anawrahta then turnedto architects to create something that befitBuddha. They built and built, and many ofthe greatest Bagan edifices date from theirefforts, including Shwezigon Paya, considereda prototype for all later Myanmar stupas;the Pitaka Taik (Scripture Library), builtto house the Pitaka (scriptures); and the elegantand distinctive Shwesandaw Paya, builtimmediately after the conquest of Thaton.Thus began what the Myanmar people callthe ‘First Burmese Empire’, which became apilgrimage point for Buddhists throughoutSoutheast Asia.King Anawrahta’s successors, particularlyKyanzittha (r 1084–1113), Alaungsithu(r 1113–67) and Narapatisithu (r 1174–1211),continued scratching this phenomenalbuilding itch, although the constructionwork must have been nonstop throughoutthe period of Bagan’s glory.DECLINEHistorians disagree on exactly what happenedto cause Bagan’s apparently rapiddecline at the end of the 13th century.The popular Myanmar view is that hordesof Mongols sent by Kublai Khan sweptthrough the city, ransacking and looting. Acontrasting take holds that the threat of invasionfrom China threw the last powerfulruler of Bagan into a panic. Legend has itthat, after a great number of temples weretorn down to build fortifications, the citywas abandoned so that the Mongols merelytook over an already deserted city.TEMPLES OF BAGAN

152TEMPLES OF BAGANTemples of Bagan0 1 km123Old BaganEnlargementTo TanKyi (3mi)AyeyarwadyRiverSee EnlargementSee NewBagan Map(p124)See Old BaganMap (P121)Old CityWallOld BaganBagan-Archaeo-logicalMuseum16204 AbeyadanaPahto21327A187YeosinCreek423Palace15SiteBagan-NyaungURd263117 2221Myinkaba11Nagayon2530124Ananda OkKyaungAnawrahta RdNorth PlainUpaliTheinBagan-Chauk RdAnawrahta RdNyaung U RdManu KanShwesandaw Paya,LawkahteikpanPahto19GubyaukgyiNew Bagan5 ThiripyitsayaVillage3To Sittana Paya (0.6mi);Chauk (19mi); Salay (22mi)AB5B9See Nyaung UMap (p116)Ayeyarwady RiverWetkyi-in 328BulediSulamaniPahto610Wetkyi-inCreekCentral PlainThabeikHmaukWest PwasawThuhekanC0 0.5 milesDTo Thetkyamuni (0.6mi);Kondawgyi Pahto (0.6mi);Kyauk Gu Ohnmin (1.2mi)Shwezigon HmyathatPayaUminNyaung UThamiwhetUminBagan NyaungU Golf ClubBaganViewingTowerNyaung U - Kyaukpadaung RdEast PwasawTettheTo Airport (0.6mi);Train Station (2.5mi)3NandamnnyaPahto1228 29MinnanthuKan To TuyanPayathonzu Taung (19mi);14PyathadaKyaukpadaung (19mi);PayaMt Popa (31mi)MinnanthuSouth PlainCKontangyiD1245Bagan scholar Paul Strachan argues inPagan: Art and Architecture of Old Burmathat the city was never abandoned at all.Indeed evidence suggests Bagan continuedas an important religious and cultural centreinto the 14th century and beyond, afterwhich its decay can be blamed on the threewaystruggle between the Shan, Mon andBamar. People began moving back in somenumbers only after the British established apresence in the area in the late 19th century,but by that point the plain of temples hadfallen victim to frequent earthquakes (therewere at least 16 trembles that shook Baganbetween 1174 and the big one in 1975), generalweathering and neglect.CONTROVERSIAL RESTORATIONThe enduring religious significance of Baganis at the heart of the site’s recent transformationfrom piles of picturesque ruins to apractically complete 13th-century city, minusthe buildings, such as palaces, homes andmonasteries, that would have been made ofwood.Dr Bob Hudson (see boxed text, p 157 )describes it as ‘the most radical heritagemanagement project in modern times’, notingthat, as of 2008, at least 1299 Buddhist

Temples of Baganæ Top SightsAbeyadana Pahto .................................. A4Ananda Ok Kyaung................................ B1Buledi...................................................... B3Gubyaukgyi ............................................ A4Lawkahteikpan Pahto............................ A3Nagayon ................................................. A4Nandamannya Pahto ............................ C3Payathonzu ............................................ C3Pyathada Paya....................................... C4Shwesandaw Paya................................. A3Shwezigon Paya .................................... C1Sulamani Pahto ..................................... B3Thabek Hmauk ...................................... B3Upali Thein ............................................. B2æ Sightstemples, monasteries and stupas have beenspeculatively rebuilt from mounds of rubblesince 1995, and a further 688 damagedbuildings have received major repairs.‘There are now at least 3300 "sites" inBagan and they are still digging up newones’, says Hudson, who points out thatmany international authorities have criticisedthe poor workmanship and historicallyinaccurate methods, styles and materials oftenbeing employed.Putting this into perspective, Hudsonnotes that construction appears to have begunon new monuments every two weeksbetween 1200 and 1280. Down history thesehastily built structures have been patchedup, repaired and rebuilt. ‘It’s the ancestorsof the same dodgy contractors who are doingthe work today’, he quips.A LIVING RELIGIOUS SITEFollowing the 1975 quake, Unesco spent 15years and over US$1 million on restorationprojects. But Bagan’s current advanced stateof restoration is mainly because of a hugelysuccessful donations program initiated bythe government in the mid-1990s and enthusiasticallysupported by many merit-makinglocals. The result, according to one Unesco9 Htilominlo Pahto ....................................B210 Kyanzittha Umin.....................................C211 Kyasin......................................................A412 Kyat Kan Kyaung....................................C313 Lawkananda Paya ..................................A514 Leimyethna Pahto..................................C315 Mahabodhi Paya.....................................B116 Manuha Paya..........................................A417 Mimalaung Kyaung ................................A218 Mingalazedi Paya ...................................A319 Myazedi...................................................A320 Nan Paya.................................................A421 Nathlaung Kyaung .................................B222 Pahtothamya..........................................B223 Pebinkyaung Paya..................................A124 Pitaka Taik ..............................................B125 Seinnyet Ama Pahto ..............................A51 Ananda Pahto ........................................ B1 Seinnyet Nyima Paya................... (see 25)2 Anauk Petleik Paya................................ A5 26 Shwegugyi ..............................................B13 Ashe Petleik Paya .................................. A5 27 Somingyi Kyaung ...................................A44 Bupaya ................................................... A1 28 Tayok Pye Paya ......................................C35 Dhammayangyi Pahto........................... B3 29 Thambula Pahto.....................................C36 Dhammayazika Paya............................. B4 30 Tharaba Gate..........................................B17 Gawdawpalin Pahto............................... A1 31 Thatbyinnyu Pahto.................................B18 Gubyauknge........................................... C2 32 Wetkyi-in-Gubyaukgyi .......................... C2official, is ‘a Disney-style fantasy version ofone of the world’s great religious and historicalsites’.Defending the rebuilding programme,Culture Minister Win Sein was quoted inThe New Light of Myanmar as saying ‘it isour national duty to preserve, strengthenand restore all the cultural heritage monumentsof Bagan to last and exist forever’,pointing out that the temples are ‘livingreligious monuments highly venerated andworshipped by Myanmar people’.This conflict of interests aside, zoningrestrictions continue to be broken in theBagan archaeological area, the most notablerecent examples being the construction ofthe Aureum Palace’s Bagan Viewing Towerat the east end of the central plain and thenew (2008) Bagan Golden Palace – both ofwhich seem large and incongruous on thetemple-strewn plain.THE TEMPLESThis section covers the highlights of the thousandsof temple sites you can visit in Bagan.For other details about Bagan, including153THE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN

154TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESBAGAN IN …Many visitors set aside just two days in Bagan even though you can easily spend fouror five days here and still leave much unexplored. Adapt the following itineraries to suityour plans or consider just renting a bike and heading off to view thousands of otherrandom sights – the real pleasure of Bagan comes from a leisurely soaking up of itsscale and time-slip atmosphere.One DayStick to the Old Bagan area starting at the Tharabar Gate then heading south toBagan’s most popular temple, Ananda Pahto and west to Thatbyinnyu Pahto, nearwhere you can climb up the old city wall.Just west is where King Anawrahta stored all the non-Buddhist images at NathlaungKyaung. Back on the main road, backtrack towards Tharabar Gate and detour on thegravel road for a river view from Bupaya.In the afternoon visit lacquerware shops in Myinkaba, climb up the hidden stairs inmodern Manuha Paya and see the bas-relief figures in Nan Paya. Finish up at one of thechoice sunset spots: Pyathada Paya is the adventurous option, east of Myinkaba ongoat-herd trails, or play it safe with the easily accessible (hence crowded) ShwesandawPaya, near Old Bagan.Two DaysHaving followed the one-day plan, now tick off other highlights starting with DhammayangyiPahto, Bagan’s largest temple. Take the paths east to the gorgeous SulamaniPahto and escape the crowds at its neighbouring ‘mini-me’ version, Thabeik Hmauk,which is also a good (and generally uncrowded) place to for sunset viewing.Another lovely view can be had from the terrace of Dhammayazika Paya in theSouth Plain area east of Myinkaba. While out this way visit Leimyethna Pahto for itswell-preserved frescoes and Pyathonzu, which also houses 13th-century murals.Four DaysOn day three many itineraries will have you heading out of the immediate Bagan areato Salay, another area sprinkled with old temples and monasteries, and/or Mt Popa,famous for its picturesque, nat- (spirit-) infested hilltop temple. Both places are interesting,but if you’d rather stay closer to Bagan, schedule visits to Abeyadana Pahto andNagayon in Myinkaba and the frescoes in Lawkahteikpan Pahto. Adventurous half-dayboat trips can be made down or across the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) to more remotetemples – the bonus being a chance to sail back into town at sunset.additional sights, accommodation, eatingand transport options, see p 113 . The templesare all shown on the map on p 152 .Old Baganpug®®Dmúui¾eh;='"The most practical part of Bagan to tourby foot (with water and a hat), this roughlycounterclockwise 1-mile circuit takes in templeswithin the old city walls.Gawdawpalin PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEegòet;plñ='puqiu"Standing 197ft tall, Gawdawpalin is oneof the largest and most imposing Bagantemples – though not necessarily the mostinspiring, with its modernised altar andtile floors inside. Built during the reign ofNarapatisithu and finished under that ofNantaungmya, it’s considered the crowningachievement of the late Bagan period.Its name means ‘Platform to which Homageis Paid’. The most recent homage was itsheavy-duty reconstruction following terrificdamage sustained in the 1975 earthquake(it stands near the quake’s epicentre). Thestairs to the top terrace are closed to visitors.Mimalaung KyaungMONASTERYmI"mel;='ekY;='"A nice set of chinthe (half-lion/half-dragondeity) guards the stairway leading up this

small, square monastery platform, constructedin 1174 by Narapatisithu. It’s about219yd south of Gawdawpalin, on the otherside of the road. In front of the monastery isa brick-and-stucco Tripitaka library next to alarge acacia tree. Atop the steps, a tiered roof(with a newer gold-capped hti, an umbrellalikedecorated pinnacle) contains a largesitting buddha. Archaeologists discoveredan intricately carved 2.5in votive tablet herethat contained 78 sculpted figures.PahtothamyaBUDDHIST TEMPLEpuqiu"s;"mY;"On the dirt road 160yd east towards thedominating Thatbyinnyu, the Pahtothamya(or Thamya Pahto) was probably built duringthe reign of Kyanzittha, around the turn ofthe 12th century, although it is popularly heldto be one of five temples built by the littleknownking Taunghthugyi (aka Sawrahan;r 931–64). The interior of this single-storeybuilding is dimly lit, typical of the early typeof Pyu-influenced temples, with their small,perforated stone windows. In its prominentvertical superstructure and reconstructedlotus-bud sikhara (corncob-like temple finial),however, the monument is clearly beginningto move forward from the early period.With a torch you can pick out super paintingremnants along the interior passages, perhapsthe earliest surviving murals in Bagan.Steps lead up to a roomy viewing platform.Nathlaung KyaungHINDU TEMPLEnt'elH;='ekY;='"Between Pahtothamya and Thatbyinnyu,this stubby building – the only Hindu templeremaining in Bagan – has a fascinatinghistory. Named ‘Shrine Confining Nat’, it’swhere King Anawrahta stored non-Buddhistimages, particularly ones for local nat, as hetried to enforce Buddhism. The king himselfdescribed the temple as ‘where the nat arekept prisoner’. Severely damaged in the 1975earthquake, only the temple’s main hall andsuperstructure (with seven original Guptastylereliefs) still stand.A sign dates it to the early 11th century.Some say it was built in 931 by Taunghthugyi;if true, this was about a century beforethe southern school of Buddhism came toBagan. The temple is dedicated to the Hindugod Vishnu.The central square of brick supports thedome and crumbled sikhara, and once containedfreestanding figures of Vishnu, as wellas Vishnu reliefs on each of the four sides.TAN KYI PAYAFrom the Old Bagan jetty you can hirea private boat to reach Tan Kyi village,where you can arrange a taxi ride (orhike) up to Tan Kyi Paya , the goldstupa atop the mountain, visible frommuch of Bagan. Views are terrific andunique, looking back over the river toBagan’s mighty sprawl. A ride for threeor four people, including wait time, isabout K15,000. You’ll need three or fourhours for the trip.The statues were stolen by a German oil engineerin the 1890s, but the badly damagedbrick-and-stucco reliefs can still be seen.Thatbyinnyu PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEsbºMupuqiu"Named for ‘omniscience’, Bagan’s highesttemple (about 160yd east of Nathlaung and220yd south of Shwegugyi) is built of twowhite-coloured boxy storeys, each with threediminishing terraces rimmed with spiresand leading to a gold-tipped sikhara, 207ftup. Its monumental size and verticalitymake it a classic example of Bagan’s middleperiod – and neatly provide a chronologicallink between early-period Ananda and lateperiodGawdawpalin, both nearby. Built in1144 by Alaungsithu, its terraces are encircledby indentations for 539 Jataka. Plaqueswere never added, leading some scholarsto surmise that the monument was neverconsecrated.Visitors are barred from climbing Thatbyinnyu’sinner passages. There are some originalmurals near the west entrance.A couple of hundred yards south you canclimb up on the southeastern corner of theold city wall. The small ‘tally zedi (stupa)’just northeast of Thatbyinnyu Pahto wasbuilt using one brick for every 10,000 usedin constructing the main temple.ShwegugyiBUDDHIST TEMPLEerágUäkI"Built by Alaungsithu in 1131, this smaller butelegant pahto, 220yd north of Thatbyinnyu,is an example of Bagan’s middle period oftemple-building, a transition in architecturalstyle from the dark and cloistered tothe airy and light. Its name means ‘GreatGolden Cave’ and its corncob sikhara is ascaled-down version of the one at Ananda.155THE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN OLD BAGAN

156TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESInside you’ll find fine stucco carvings, ateak buddha and stone slabs that retell (inPali) its history, including that it took justseven months to build. Missing from thescripts are details of its builder’s demise –Alaungsithu’s son brought his sick fatherhere in 1163 to smother him to death.Pitaka TaikBUDDHIST LIBRARYpi$kt'tiuk'Following the sacking of Thaton, KingAnawrahta is said to have carted off some30 elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures in1058 and built this library (just northeast ofShwegugyi) to house them. The square designfollows the basic early Bagan gu (cavetemple) plan, perfect for the preservationof light-sensitive palm-leaf scriptures. It’snotable for the perforated stone windows,each carved from single stone slabs, and theplaster carvings on the roof, which imitateMyanmar woodcarvings.Tharabar GateARCHAEOLOGICAL SITEsrp:t®x:"Do stop on the east side of this former entranceof the original palace site. On eitherside of the arched gateway are two niches,home not to buddha images but to natwho guard the gate and who are treatedwith profound respect by locals. To the leftis Lady Golden Face, and to the right herbrother Lord Handsome.Like most nat, Tharabar Gate’s twosomehad a tragic history. A king married LadyGolden Face to lure her brother Lord Handsome,whom he feared, out of hiding. Whenthe king had Handsome burned at the stake,his sister jumped in too; only her face wassaved from the fire.Superstitious locals don’t venturethrough the gate by motorbike, car or horsecart without first paying a one-time offeringto the nat (usually a bunch of bananas anda couple of coconuts) to ensure protectionagainst traffic accidents. Don’t worry: bicyclesare OK, blessing-free.The gate is the best-preserved remains ofthe 9th-century wall, and the only gate stillstanding. Traces of old stucco can still beseen on the gateway.A number of restaurants are past the formermoat, about 220yd east.Mahabodhi PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEmh;eb;/i.ur;"Unlike any other Bagan temple, this monument,located on the north side of the mainroad 380yd west of the gate, is modelled afterthe famous Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya,India, which commemorates the spotwhere the Buddha attained enlightenment.Built during the reign of Nantaungmya in1215, the temple’s unusual pyramidal spire isrichly coated in niches enclosing seated buddhafigures, rising from a square block. Thestairway to the top is closed.Inside is a modern makeover – with tilefloor and carpet. The ruined buildings justnorth feature some original glazed paintingfragments.BupayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEbU".ur;"On the bank of the Ayeyarwady (reachedfrom the Nyaung U road, about 220yd northwestof the Mahabodhi Paya), this cylindricalPyu-style stupa, named for bu (gourd), is saidto date back to the 3rd century, further thanany Bagan temple. Most likely it was erectedaround the same time as the city walls(around 850). What’s seen now – a gold stupaabove a row of crenulated terraces leadingdown to the water – is a reconstruction; the1975 earthquake demolished the original.Off the road to the southeast is thePebinkyaung Paya, a 12th-century pagodabuilt in a unique Sinhalese style.North PlainThe bulk of Bagan temples are scatteredacross the vast northern plain between NyaungU, Old Bagan and New Bagan. Thisbroad area runs between the Old Baganwalls and Nyaung U, and (mostly) betweenthe two roads that connect the two. Sightsare ordered (more or less) west to east.Ananda PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEa;nNÌ;puqiu"With its shimmering gold, 170ft-high, corncobhti shimmering across the plains, Anandais one of the finest, largest, best preservedand most revered of all Bagan souvenirstands, ur, we mean temples. Hawkers sellingbooks, postcards and oil paintings surelyknow you’ll be making it to this lovely terracedtemple, but that shouldn’t dissuadeyou from going.It’s roughly 490yd east of Thatbyinnyu,550yd north of Shwesandaw and 1090ydnorthwest of Dhammayangyi Pahto. Most visitorsaccess it from the northern side – wherethe highest concentration of hawkers are. Fora quieter approach, enter from the east side.

HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of primary sources means the ‘histories’ attached to Burma’s early kingdoms areoften a matter of opinion and creative interpretation. ‘The best way to treat any legendarystory is as a legend’, says Sydney University’s Dr Bob Hudson, an archaeologicalexpert on Myanmar. He points out that some contemporary scholars have quite differentinterpretations of the story of Bagan.‘Michael Aung-Thwin, in his book Mists of Rammana (University of Hawaii Press),proposes that there was no conquest of Thaton, and that a Mon element in the populationof Bagan got there because they had been pushed westward out of Thailand by theexpansionist kings of Angkor. The appearance of Indian art styles at Bagan also did notneed to come via Thaton. Following the conquest of Buddhist and Hindu principalities ineastern India by the image-shunning Muslims, the logical destination for an Indian artistwho specialised in painting or carving human figures was the economically booming anddevoutly Buddhist Bagan. The Indian art style became modified by local tastes and techniques,creating a distinctive Myanmar style.‘And the idea originally proposed by the 20th-century historian G H Luce, that theearly, dark temples represent the brooding nature of the captive Mon, while the laterhigh, airy temples show the outgoing nature of the Burmans, has an explanation thatrelies on architecture, not on imagined ethnic traits: the engineers of Bagan simply gotbetter over time at using the arch, which they had adopted from India, and thus couldbuild more spacious interiors.‘Doubt has also been cast on the tale of a Buddhist king of Bagan irreligiously tearingdown temples to build fortifications against the advancing Mongols. This is more likely a‘cautionary tale’ about the kinds of things that kings should never, never do. And while therewas certainly a Mongol invasion of the northern borders of the kingdom in the late 13thcentury, there is no real evidence that they attacked the capital. There is indeed a painting ofa Mongol archer on a pagoda wall at Bagan, but he is cheerfully shooting at a duck, while hissenior officer lounges under a tree. The provincial lords in the north, who actually did fightoff the Mongols, were so successful that, as the economy of Bagan deteriorated under theburden of temple construction, a new series of capitals slowly grew up around Mandalayand Ava. Bagan was not so much destroyed as relegated to the second division.‘Some of these interpretations remain contentious. You might find the discussions onsome of the Burma/Mon history websites highly entertaining, especially if you thoughtacademics are all full of reasoned arguments and civilised discourse!’Thought to have been built between 1090and 1105 by King Kyanzittha, this perfectlyproportioned temple heralds the stylisticend of the early Bagan period and the beginningof the middle period. In 1990, on its900th anniversary, the temple spires weregilded. The remainder of the temple exterioris whitewashed from time to time.The central square measures 58yd alongeach side. Upper floors are closed to visitors.The entranceways make the structure a perfectGreek cross; each entrance is crownedwith a stupa finial. The base and the terracesare decorated with 554 glazed tiles showingJataka scenes, thought to be derived fromMon texts. Look back as you enter to see thehuge carved teak doors that separate interiorhalls from cross passages on all four sides.Facing outward from the centre of thecube are four 31ft standing buddha statues.Only the Bagan-style images facing north andsouth are original; both display the dhammachakkamudra (a hand position symbolisingthe Buddha teaching his first sermon).The other two images are replacements forfigures destroyed by fire in the 1600s. All fourhave bodies of solid teak, though guides mayclaim the southern image is made of a bronzealloy. Guides like to point out that if you standby the donation box in front of the originalsouthern buddha, his face looks sad, whilefrom a distance he tends to look mirthful.The western and eastern standing buddhaimages are done in the later Konbaung, orMandalay, style. If looked at from the rightangle, the two lions at the eastern side resemblean ogre. A small, nut-like sphereheld between the thumb and middle fingerof the east-facing image is said to resemblea herbal pill, and may represent the buddhaTHE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN NORTH PLAIN

158TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESoffering dhamma (Buddhist teachings) as acure for suffering. Both arms hang at the image’ssides with hands outstretched, a mudra(hand position) unknown to traditional Buddhistsculpture outside this temple.The west-facing buddha features the abhayamudra (the hands outstretched, in thegesture of no fear). At its feet sit two lifesizedlacquer statues, said to represent KingKyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon monkwho initiated Anawrahta into TheravadaBuddhism. Inside the western portico aretwo symbols on pedestals of the Buddha’sfootprints.Don’t leave without taking a brief walkaround the outside of the temple, where youcan see many glazed tiles and lovely viewsof the spires and terraced roofs (often awayfrom vendor hassle too).Ananda Ok KyaungBUDDHIST CHAPELa;nNÌ;aut'ekY;='"Just west of Ananda’s northern entry, thissmall vihara (sanctuary or chapel) featuressome detailed 18th-century murals burstingwith bright red and green, showing detailsof everyday life from the Bagan period. Inthe southeast corner, you can see Portuguesefigures engaged in trade. Built in 1137,the temple’s name means ‘Ananda BrickMonastery’.Upali TheinORDINATION HALLwp:lisim'Just north of the Bagan-Nyaung U Rd, almostmidway to Nyaung U, this squat mid-13th-century ordination hall houses somebrightly painted frescoes depicting bigscenes on the walls and ceilings from thelate 17th or early 18th century. Sadly manypieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. Thebuilding, named for a well-known monkfrom the 13th century, is often locked to protectthe art, but you can see in (a bit) fromthe three gated doorways if the ‘keyholder’isn’t around. The roof battlements imitateMyanmar wooden architecture, and a smallcentre spire rises from the rooftop.Htilominlo PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEqI"lium='"liupuqiu"Across the road from Upali Thein, this150ft-high temple (built in 1218) marks thespot where King Nantaungmya was chosen(by a leaning umbrella – that timeless decider),among five brothers, to be the crownprince. It’s more impressive from the outside,with its terraced design, which is similarto Sulamani Pahto. Have a walk aroundthe 140-sq-ft base to take in the fragmentsof the original fine plaster carvings, glazedsandstone decorations and nicely carved reliefson the doorways. Inside are four buddhason the lower and upper floors, thoughthe stairways are closed. Traces of old muralsare also still visible. Unfortunately it’sVendor Central.BulediBUDDHIST TEMPLEbU"ly'sI"Great for its views, this steep-stepped,pyramid-style stupa looks ho-hum fromafar, but the narrow terrace has becomesomething of an alternative sunset spot. It’sabout 660yd south of the Htilominlo, acrossAnawrahta Rd. It’s also known as ‘Temple394’ (not correctly labelled on some maps).If persistent vendors are getting to you,try the miniature version, Temple 405, withseveral glazed tiles visible, just east of Buledi.GubyaukngeBUDDHIST TEMPLEgUe¨p;k'=y'Off Anawrahta Rd, almost a mile east of Htilominlo,this early-Bagan-period temple hassome excellent stucco carvings on the outsidewalls (particularly on the north side)and some original paintings visible inside.TEMPLE FESTIVALSThe following are Bagan’s major temple festivals or paya pwe, listed in order of theircelebration through the year. At them all expect religious chanting around the clock,religious paraphernalia stalls and music and drama performances.» Manuha Paya Held on the full moon of Tabaung (February/March).» Gawdawpalin Pahto Celebrated on the full moon of Thadingyut (September/October).» Shwezigon Paya Celebrated on the full moon of Tazaungmon (October/November).» Ananda Pahto This roughly two-week event culminating on the full moon of Pyatho(December/January) is Bagan’s biggest festival, when hundreds of monks come to collectalms from thousands of merit-seeking locals.

KEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERS159Major temples that remain active places of worship such as Ananda Pahto and ShwezigonPaya are always open during the day. At many others to get inside you first have tofind the ‘keyholder’ whose job it is to act as the caretaker of the site. Often they (or theirkids) will find you first and open the gate for you. A bit of ‘tea money’ (say K500) is appreciated.We’re told that the keyholders are assigned by the archaeology department.The other constant of Bagan temples – even relatively remote ones – are souvenir hawkers,often selling (and sometimes creating) colourful sand paintings. Some of these replicateparts of the murals from inside the temples and are quite skilful with prices starting atas little as K500 for the smaller canvases, but rising sharply for more detailed and largerworks; other images are pretty generic and found across all temple sites. Although somehawkers can be persistent, if you’re not interested in buying, most will leave you alone.We’re told that official souvenir hawkers at the temples pay K45,000 a year for a licence,but it’s likely that there are many more unofficial vendors given the potential for relativelyeasy money. ‘Even if they only sell a few trinkets a week, it’s an easy job,’ said one frequentvisitor to Bagan, ‘as the alternative is a farm job which pays far less a day.’ A guide alsobemoaned that children in Bagan are starting to quit school in order to work as hawkers.Wetkyi-In-GubyaukgyiBUDDHIST TEMPLE0k'äkI"a='"gUe¨p;k'äkI"Just west of Nyaung U and about 100yd eastof Gubyauknge, this detailed off-the-maincircuit,13th-century temple has an Indianstylespire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in OldBagan. It's interesting for fine frescoes ofscenes from the Jataka but, unfortunately,in 1899 a German collector surreptitiouslyremoved many of the panels on which thefrescoes were painted. Those that remainin the entry are in great shape. Steps insidelead to four buddha images and you can seeHindu figures engraved on the spire.Central PlainExtending from the edge of Old Bagan,this vast and lovely plain (roughly south ofAnawrahta Rd between New Bagan and NyaungU) is home to a few must-sees everyonegets to (Shwesandaw Paya and DhammayangyiPahto) and many pockets of templesthat few ever see. It’s great turf to follow yourown whims, as you’ll find goatherds and a bitof village life out here, but there is nothingin the way of restaurants or lunch options.Some temples are locked but a ‘keyholder’should be in the area.This list of well-worthy sites runs west toeast (towards the clearly visible Bagan Towerconstruction site, near Nyaung U).Shwesandaw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEeráz®et;'.ur;"Bagan’s most famous sunset-viewing spot,the Shwesandaw is a graceful white pyramidstylepagoda with steps leading past five terracesto the circular stupa top, with good360-degree views. It’s located roughly midwaybetween Thatbyinnyu and Dhammayangyi.Its top terrace is roomy – just as well,considering the numbers of camera-totingtravellers coming by taxi or bus before sunset.If you go during the day, you’ll likely be alone.Shwesandaw means ‘golden holy hair’:legend has it that the stupa enshrines a Buddhahair relic presented to King Anawrahtaby the King of Ussa Bago (Pegu) in thanksfor his assistance in repelling an invasion bythe Khmers. The terraces once bore terracottaplaques showing scenes from the Jatakabut traces of these, and of other sculptures,were covered by rather heavy-handed renovations.The now-gilded zedi (stupa) bellrises from two octagonal bases, which topthe five square terraces. This was the firstBagan monument to feature stairways leadingfrom the square terraces to the roundbase of the stupa.The hti, which was toppled by the 1975earthquake, can still be seen lying on thesouth side of the paya compound. A new onewas fitted soon after the quake.About 165yd north stands LawkahteikpanPahto – a small but interesting middleperiodgu containing excellent frescoes andinscriptions in both Burmese and Mon.Dhammayangyi PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLE/mμr®äkI"puqiu"Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive,walled, 12th-century temple (about 550ydeast of Shwesandaw) is infamous for itsTHE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN CENTRAL PLAIN

160TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESmysterious, bricked-up inner passagewaysand cruel history.It’s said that King Narathu built the templeto atone for his sins: he smothered his fatherand brother to death and executed one ofhis wives, an Indian princess, for practisingHindu rituals. Narathu is also said to havemandated that the mortarless brickwork fittogether so tightly that even a pin couldn’tpass between any two bricks. Workers whofailed in this task had their arms choppedoff: just inside the west entrance, note thestones with arm-sized grooves where theseamputations allegedly happened.After Narathu died – by assassination in1170 – the inner encircling ambulatory wasfilled with brick rubble, as ‘payback’. (Othersquietly argue the temple dates from theearlier reign of Alaungsithu, which wouldrefute all this fun legend behind it.) It’s alsolikely that this bricking up of the passageswas a crude way of ensuring the massivestructure didn’t collapse.The plan here is similar to Ananda, withprojecting porticoes and receding terraces,though its sikhara is reduced to a stubnowadays. Walking around the outer ambulatory,under ceilings so high you can onlyhear the squeaks of bats circling in the dark,you can see some intact stucco reliefs andpaintings, suggesting the work had beencompleted. The mystery goes on.Three out of the four buddha sanctumswere also filled with bricks. The remainingwestern shrine features two original side-bysideimages of Gautama and Maitreya, thehistorical and future buddhas (it’s the onlyBagan site with two side-by-side buddhas).The temple’s bad karma may be the reasonit remains one of the few temples not tohave undergone major restoration. But thatmay change in the future, as China is saidto be interested in donating funds for sucha project. Perhaps then one of the great architecturalmysteries of Bagan will be solved.Sulamani PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEcUL;m,ipuqiu"About half a mile east of Dhammayangyi, thisbroad two-storey temple is one of Bagan’smost attractive, with lush grounds (and amplevendors) behind the surrounding walls. It’s aprime example of later, more sophisticatedtemple styles, with better internal lighting.This temple with five doorways is knownas the Crowning Jewel and was constructedaround 1181 by Narapatisithu. Combiningthe early period’s horizontal planes with thevertical lines of the middle period, the recedingterraces create a pyramid effect. Thebrickwork throughout is considered some ofthe best in Bagan. The gilded sikhara is areconstruction; the original was destroyedin the 1975 earthquake. The interior face ofthe wall was once lined with 100 monasticcells, a feature unique among Bagan’s ancientmonasteries.There’s much to see inside. Carved stuccoon mouldings, pediments and pilasters representssome of Bagan’s finest ornamentalwork and is in fairly good condition. Glazedplaques around the base and terraces are alsostill visible, as are many big and small murals.Buddha images face the four directionsfrom the ground floor; the image at the maineastern entrance sits in a recess built into thewall. The interior passage around the base ispainted with quite big frescoes from the Konbaungperiod, and there are traces of earlierfrescoes. The stairways to the top are closed.Thabeik HmaukBUDDHIST TEMPLEspit'emH;k'Facing Sulamani from 150yd east, and wellworth visiting, this sikhara-topped templelooks like a miniature version of its more famousneighbour, but sees far fewer visitors(or vendors). Thabeik Hmauk means ‘BoycottTemple’, as it was made in response tothe similarly designed Sulamani, which wasordered by the brutal king Narapatisithu.Much of its interior was damaged by the1975 earthquake, but there are multiplestairways up to a wrap-around meditationchamber with little light (and a few bats).There are two outside terraces, reached bynarrow stairs, with superb views.Pyathada PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE¨pSd:".ur;"About half a mile southeast of Sulamani,reached by dirt roads that sometimes getobscured in goat fields, this huge, impressivepagoda is a superb sunset-viewing spot, witha giant open terrace (Bagan’s largest) atopthe steps, and another small deck furtherup. The tour groups have discovered it soyou’re unlikely to have the place to yourself.Note how the top stupa isn’t centred on thetop platform.Dating from the 13th century, during thelatter period of temple building at Bagan,Pyathada’s interior arches are still partlyopen to view. The architects used an inner relievingarch and a second upper arch to supportthe huge chambers, illustrating the point

that temple styles changed in Bagan becausethe builders improved at arch construction(for more information, see p 157 ).Myinkaba Area¨m='kp:The sites north and south of Myinkaba villageare all just off the main road and areeasy to access. These are listed in order fromnorth to south.Mingalazedi PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEmg¿l;ectIClose to the riverbank, towards Myinkabafrom the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel, MingalazediPaya (Blessing Stupa) representsthe final flowering of Bagan’s architecturaloutburst, as displayed in its enormous belllikedome and the beautiful glazed Jatakatiles around each terrace. Although manyof the 1061 original tiles have been damagedor stolen, there are still 561 left. Thesmaller square building in the zedi groundsis one of the few Tripitaka libraries madeof brick.GubyaukgyiBUDDHIST TEMPLEgUe¨p;k'äkI"Situated just to the left of the road as youenter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi (Great PaintedCave Temple) sees a lot of visitors who aredrawn by the well-preserved, richly colouredpaintings inside. These are thought to datefrom the temple’s original construction in1113, when Kyanzittha’s son Rajakumar builtit following his father’s death. In Indianstyle, the monument consists of a large vestibuleattached to a smaller antechamber.The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls isin particularly good condition.Perforated, Pyu-style windows meanyou’ll need a powerful torch to see the ceilingpaintings clearly. If it’s locked during offseason,ask in the village for the keyholder.Next to the monument stands the gildedMyazedi (Emerald Stupa). A four-sided pillarin a cage between the two monumentsbears an inscription consecrating Gubyaukgyiand written in four languages – Pyu,Mon, Old Burmese and Pali. Its linguisticand historical significance is great, since itestablishes the Pyu as an important culturalinfluence in early Bagan and relates thechronology of the Bagan kings as well as actingas a ‘Rosetta Stone’ to allow scholars todecypher the Pyu.Manuha PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEmNUh;.ur;"In Myinkaba village, about a third of a milesouth of Gubyaukgyi, stands this active –and rather modern-looking, even though itdates back to 1059 – pagoda. It is named afterManuha, the Mon king from Thaton, whowas held captive here by King Anawrahta.In the front of the building are three seatedbuddhas; in the back is a huge recliningbuddha. All seem too large for their enclosures– supposedly representing the stressand discomfort the king had to endure. However,these features are not unique in Bagan.It is said that only the reclining buddha, inthe act of entering parinibbana (final passingaway), has a smile on its face, showing thatfor Manuha, only death was a release from hissuffering. But if you climb to the top of thispaya via the stairs in the back (ask for keys ifit’s locked), you can see the face of the sittingbuddha through a window – from up hereyou’ll realise that the gigantic face, so grimfrom below, has an equally gigantic smile.Nan PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEnn'".ur;"Just south of Manuha Paya by dirt road, thisshrine is said to have been used as Manuha’sprison, although there is little evidence supportingthe legend. In this story the shrinewas originally Hindu, and captors thoughtusing it as a prison would be easier thanconverting it to a Buddhist temple. It’s worthvisiting for its interior masonry work – sandstoneblock facings over a brick core, certainlysome of Bagan’s finest detailed sculpture.Perforated stone windows are typical of earlierBagan architecture – in fact it was probablyBagan’s first gu-style shrine.In the central sanctuary the four stonepillars have finely carved sandstone bas-relieffigures of three-faced Brahma. The creatordeity is holding lotus flowers, thoughtto be offerings to a freestanding buddhaimage once situated in the shrine’s centre,a theory that dispels the idea that this wasever a Hindu shrine. The sides of the pillarsfeature ogre-like kala-ate heads with openmouths streaming with flowers. Legendgoes that Shiva employed these creaturesof Hindu legend to protect temples, butthey proved too ferocious so Shiva trickedthem into eating their bodies, then fed themflowers to keep their minds off snacking onworshippers. In the centre of the four pillarsis an altar on which once stood a standing161THE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN MYINKABA AREA

162TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESU THEIN LWIN DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT OF ARCHAEOLOGY, BAGANMy recommendations for Bagan’s most significant temples to see are as follows, inchronological order:Ananda Pahto (p 156 )Not only is it an outstanding example of Bagan temple architecture, Ananda is rich indecorative detail, including the four standing wooden images of Buddha, the life of Buddhadepicted in niche carvings and the Jataka series tiles.Nagayon (p 162 )This is the last restoration project that Unesco was involved in and was built in the sameperiod as Ananda. Look for the 28 images of Buddha under the main sculpture.Abeyadana Pahto (p 162 )This is my personal favourite – inside you can see 550 Jakata mural paintings and variousHindu deities paying homage to Buddha.Gubyaukgyi (p 161 )Famous for its frescoes, this is one of the last temples built in the 11th century – apartfrom life-of-Buddha illustrations, you can see scenes from four Buddhist synods held inancient times.Lawkahteikpan Pahto (p 159 )Also very important for its frescoes, including eight great miracles of Buddha’s life. Youcan read the Jakata scenes as a complete story. You start to see a distinct Myanmar styleemerge here from the Mon influence.buddha or (some locals believe) a Hindugod. Ask at Manuha if the temple is locked.Abeyadana PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEap:y'rtn;puqiu"About 440yd south of Manuha Paya, this11th-century temple with a Sinhalese-stylestupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha’sBengali wife Abeyadana, who waited forhim here as he hid for his life from his predecessorKing Sawlu. It’s famed for its originalfrescoes, which were cleaned in 1987 byUnesco staff. With a torch, you can make outmany figures that Abeyadana, believed to bea Mahayanist, would likely have asked for:Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, andHindu deities Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva andIndra. The inner shrine contains a large,brick, seated buddha (partly restored); surroundingwalls are lined with niches, most Somingyi Kyaungnow empty. Inside the front wall are manyJataka scenes.Ask at the caretaker’s house to the southif the temple is locked.Some visitors enjoy the sunset at theoften-overlooked Kyasin across the road.NagayonBUDDHIST TEMPLEng:"r®uSlightly south of Abeyadana and across theroad, this elegant and well-preserved templewas built by Kyanzittha. The main buddhaimage is twice life size and shelters under thehood of a huge naga (dragon serpent). Thisreflects the legend that in 1192 Kyanzitthabuilt the temple on the spot where he wassheltered while fleeing from his angry brotherand predecessor Sawlu – an activity hehad to indulge in on more than one occasion.Paintings also decorate the corridor walls.The central shrine has two smaller standingbuddhas as well as the large one. The templeitself – with corncob sikhara, which somebelieve to be the Ananda prototype – can beclimbed via tight stairs.BUDDHIST TEMPLEciu"m='"äkI"ekY;='"Named after the woman who supposedlysponsored its construction, this typical late-Bagan brick monastery (about 220yd southwestof Nagayon) is thought to have beenbuilt in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu tothe south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many

ick monasteries in Bagan were single-blockstructures; Somingyi is unique in that it hasmonastic cells clustered around a courtyard.New Bagan Areapug®®Dmúui¾oc'Sights are a little scarcer heading south ofNew Bagan towards the outskirts of theBagan area.Seinnyet Nyima Paya & Seinnyet AmaPahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEcim'"–k'–Im NH='¾ cim'"–k'ac'm puqiu"This stupa and shrine stand side by side(about 270yd north of New Bagan) and aretraditionally ascribed to Queen Seinnyet inthe 11th century, although the architectureclearly points to a period two centurieslater. The zedi rests on three terraces and istopped by a beautiful stylised umbrella.Lawkananda PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEel;knNÌ;.ur;"At the height of Bagan’s power, boats from theMon region, Rakhaing (Arakan) and even SriLanka would anchor by this riverside pagoda(about 270yd southeast of the New Bagancrossroads – a sign in Burmese points theway) with its distinctive elongated cylindricaldome. It was built in 1059 by Anawrahta. It isstill used as a place of worship and is thoughtto house an important Buddha tooth replica.There are lots of benches for wide-open viewsof the Ayeyarwady, but it’s sometimes hard toenjoy hassle-free.Ashe (East) & Anauk (West)Petleik PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEaerH− NH='¾ aen;k' fk'lip'.ur;"Just inland to the northeast from LawkanandaPaya are the excavated remains of thesetwin 11th-century paya. Found in 1905, thelower parts of the pagodas are ho-hum fromthe outside but feature hundreds of terracottaJataka lining the vaulted corridors (particularlyimpressive in Anauk Petleik Paya).A keyholder usually appears to unlock thedoor and turn on the fluorescent lights.Sittana PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEcc'tnC.ur;"About half a mile further south, this large,13th-century bell-shaped stupa is NewBagan’s most impressive structure. Built byHtilominlo, and showing some Hindu influences,it’s set on four square terraces, eachfronted by a standing buddha image in brickand stucco. A rather rickety stairway leadsup the stupa’s southern side to the terraces,where you can circle the structure. At thesouthwestern corner is a closed-off chamberleading into an inner sanctum.South PlainThis rural area, along Bagan’s southernreaches, follows the main road betweenNew Bagan and Nyaung U Airport, passingPwasaw and Minnanthu villages on the way.Other than a few places, such as Payathonzu,most sights see few tourists. Many horse-cartdrivers will take in the cluster of sights northof Minnanthu and go via dirt paths towardsCentral Plain sights, such as Sulamani Pahto.Views west from some temples here rival anyother in Bagan in terms of scope of the site.The following sites are listed in orderfrom west to east.Dhammayazika PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE/mμr;jik.ur;"About 2 miles east of the New Bagan crossroads,and standing north of the main road,this pentagonal zedi is similar to the Shwezigonbut with a more unusual design. Set inthe south-central end of Bagan, it also haslovely views from its highest terrace.Sitting in lush garden grounds with agilded bell, the Dhammayazika dates from1196. An outer wall has five gateways. Uptop, five small temples, each containing abuddha image, encircle the terraces; someof them bear interior murals added duringthe Konbaung era.Watch out for ghosts here! Supposedlythe stupa’s construction began under a generalwho died before its completion. His likenessis said to appear in many photos of thesite, including a fairly recent one of governmentofficials.It’s possible, with perseverance, to cyclethe thrilling dirt roads here from DhammayangyiPahto, a mile north.Leimyethna PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEel"mYk'NH;.ur;"Built in 1222, this east-facing, whitewashedtemple near Minnanthu village (almost 2miles east of Dhammayazika on the northside of the road) stands on a raised platformand has interior walls decorated with wellpreservedfrescoes. It is topped by a gildedIndian-style spire like that on Ananda. Thejar-like structures out the front were pillarsof a building toppled by the 1975 earthquake.163THE TEMPLES TEMPLESOF BAGAN NEW BAGAN AREA

164TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESTayok Pye PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEtrut'e¨p".ur;"A couple of hundred yards north of Leimyethnaby dirt road, this spired temple getsattention for the views from its upper reaches(though its top level is now closed).PayathonzuBUDDHIST TEMPLE.ur;"ou®"zUAcross the main road from Tayok, this complexof three interconnected shrines (thename means Three Stupas) is worth seeingfor its 13th-century murals close up. Itwas abandoned shortly before its constructionwas complete. Each square cubicle istopped by a fat sikhara; a similar structureappears only at Salay (p 128 ). The design isremarkably like Khmer Buddhist ruins inThailand.You enter the middle shrine. To the right(south) are scratched-up, whitewashedwalls. The other two shrines (particularlythe northernmost one) are home to lovely,vaguely Chinese- or Tibetan-looking muralpaintings that contain Bodhisattva figures.Whether these indicate possible Mahayanaor Tantric influence is a hotly debated issueamong art historians. Some drawings arerather crudely touched up.The three-shrine design hints at linkswith the Hindu Trimurti (triad) of Vishnu,Shiva and Brahma, a triumvirate also associatedwith Tantric Buddhism. You mightalso say it represents the Triple Gems ofBuddhism (buddha, dhamma and sangha),except that such a design is uncommon inAsian Buddhist architecture, although itdoes appear in the Hindu shrines of Indiaand Nepal.Thambula PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEsmõBlpuqiu"This square temple, surrounded by crumblingwalls just north of Payathonzu, is decoratedwith faded Jataka frescoes and wasbuilt in 1255 by Thambula, the wife of KingUzana. It’s often locked, but go to the (shadedat midday) doors and peek through the gateto see into wall and ceiling murals. A muralof a boat race can be seen from the southernentrance; good ceiling murals are seen fromthe north side.Nandamannya PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEnNÌ;m–;Dating from the mid-13th century, thissmall, single-chambered temple has veryfine frescoes and a ruined seated buddhaimage. It’s about 220yd north of Thambula;a sign leads down a short dirt road. (It’s theone to the right.)Nandamannya earns its reputation fromits mural of the ‘Temptation of Mara’, inwhich nubile young females (vainly) attemptto distract the Buddha from the meditationsession that led to his enlightenment. Theundressed nature of the females shockedFrench epigraphist Charles Duroiselle, whowrote in 1916 that they were ‘so vulgarlyerotic and revolting that they can neither bereproduced or described’. Times change: thetopless women can be seen, without blushing,on the back left wall.The murals’ similarity with those atPayathonzu has led some art historiansto suggest they were painted by the samehand.Just behind the temple is the Kyat KanKyaung, a working underground monasterydating from the 11th century. Mats on thetunnel floors are used for meditation.Nyaung U Areae–;='wI"The main site in this area is the superbShwezigon Paya.Shwezigon PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEerác–'"xu®.ur;"At the west end of Nyaung U, this big, beautifulzedi is the town’s main religious site, andis most famous for its link with the 37 nat.Lit up impressively at dusk the gildedzedi sits on three rising terraces. Enamelledplaques in panels around the base of thezedi illustrate scenes from the Jataka. At thecardinal points, facing the terrace stairways,are four shrines, each of which houses a13ft-high bronze standing buddha. Guptainspiredand cast in 1102, these are Bagan’slargest surviving bronze buddhas.A 4in circular indentation in a stone slab,before the upwards-heading eastern steps,was filled with water to allow former Myanmarmonarchs to look at the reflection of thehti without tipping their heads backwards(which might have caused them to lose theircrowns).The most important site here is the smallyellow compound called 37 Nat (in English)on the southeast side of the site. Inside arefigures of all the 37 pre- Buddhist nat thatwere officially endorsed by Bamar monarchyin a compromising gesture towards a pub-

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdTHREE TEMPLES BY THE AYEYARWADY165From Nyaung U’s jetty you can negotiate a fun boat trip to see three temples just off theAyeyarwady riverbank. Half a mile north, is 13th-century Thetkyamuni, with a few muralsinside (hard to make out) and tight, dark steps leading up to a small terrace up top.On the hill nearby is the same-era Kondawgyi Pahto, with better preserved murals andviews from the surrounding platform.Another kilometre or so north is the 11th- and 12th-century Kyauk Gu Ohnmin cavetemple, built in the side of a ravine. It’s said during WWII Japanese soldiers hid out here.The inside tunnels lead about 55yd to blocked-off rubble. Some locals say the tunnel wasintended to go, ahem, to Pindaya Cave near Inle Lake. You can climb on top of the templefrom the new steps to the right.These sights are accessible, with more difficulty, by road. A boat trip takes about twoor three hours, and your driver will show you the temples. It costs about K15,000 forthree or four people.lic reluctant to give up all their beliefs forBuddhism. Ask around if the compound islocked. At one end stands an original stonefigure of Thagyamin, king of the nat and adirect appropriation of the Hindu god Indra.This is the oldest known freestanding Thagyaminfigure in Myanmar.The site was started by Anawrahta butnot completed until the reign of Kyanzittha.The latter is thought to have built his palacenearby.A path on the north side leads down tothe riverbank, where you can get some interestingviews.Kyanzittha UminBUDDHIST TEMPLEkYn'cc's;"wm='Although officially credited to Kyanzittha,this cave temple may actually date backto Anawrahta. Built into a cliff face 270ydsouthwest of Shwezigon, the long, dimly litcorridors are decorated with frescoes, someof which are thought to have been paintedby Bagan’s Tartar invaders during the periodof the Mongol occupation after 1287. An attendantwill usually greet you with a torchto lend and keys to unlock the doors. It’svery quiet in there, and you can actually seethe 700-year-old brush strokes.THE TEMPLES TEMPLES OF BAGAN NYAUNG U AREA© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdEastern MyanmarThazi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Kalaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Pindaya . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Inle Lake . . . . . . . . . . . 177Nyaungshwe . . . . . . . . 178The Lake . . . . . . . . . . .184Taunggyi . . . . . . . . . . .188Kengtung(Kyaingtong). . . . . . . .192Kayah State . . . . . . . . 198Best Places to Eat» Lin Htett Myanmar TraditionalFood (p 182 )» Viewpoint Restaurant(p 182 )» Thu Maung Restaurant(p173)Best Places to Stay» Pindaya Inle Inn (p 176 )» Golden Island Cottages(Thale U; p 187 )» Pine Hill Resort (p 172 )» Inle Princess Resort (p 188 )» Teakwood Guest House(p 180 )» Hotel Amazing NyaungShwe (p 180 )» Aquarius Inn (p 180 )Why Go?The shaggy hills of Shan State are ground zero for some ofthe country’s most fabled outdoor pursuits. Activities suchas buzzing along Inle Lake in a motorised canoe and trekkingamong the Pa-O and Danu villages outside Kalaw areclassic Myanmar (Burma) experiences, and should not bemissed. Throw in even more opportunities for trekking,boating and caving in lesser-known areas such as Pindayaand Kakku, and we reckon even the most hopeless outdoorjunkie will be sated.Once you’ve caught your breath, eastern Myanmar is alsothe best region for a unique cultural experience. Becauseof the logistical difficulties of getting to Kengtung (Kyaingtong)and Kayah State, the border regions see far fewer visitors,but it’s worth making the effort to reach these intriguingenclaves of ethnic Tai and hill-tribe culture.When to GoEastern Myanmar is the place to head in winter (Novemberto January); even though night-time temperatures dipperilously close to freezing, the daytime temperatures at thehigher elevations are a comfortable 68°F to 79°F (20°C to26°C). The hottest time of year is from March to May, whendaytime temperatures climb close to 104°F (40°C), but theevenings and mornings remain cool. The rainy season isfrom June to October and it would be best to avoid this time,especially if you plan to do any trekking.

THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills between Mandalay and InleLake have attracted travellers ever sinceMyanmar first opened up to internationalvisitors in the early ’90s. From the junctiontown of Thazi, a pitted highway cuts eastacross a series of mountainous ridges, dividedby broad valleys covered in a multicolouredpatchwork of fields, villages and hedges. AfterYangon and Bagan, this is probably the mostvisited part of Myanmar – not least becauseof the enduring appeal of Inle Lake.Thazis;c–'%064 / POP C10,000Thazi crops up on travellers’ itineraries forone reason only – the town marks the intersectionof the Mandalay–Yangon rail lineand the highway towards Inle Lake and theThai border.4Sleeping & EatingMoon-Light Rest House GUESTHOUSE $(%69056; Thazi-Taunggyi Hwy; r $3-10;a) On themain route to Taunggyi and located acrossthe street from the road that leads to thetrain station, this simple guesthouse is runby the delightful Htun family. The basicrooms are clean, the atmosphere is wholesome,the welcome is genuine and the attachedrestaurant serves good food. Staffcan help out with travel arrangements.8InformationInternet (Thazi-Taunggyi Hwy; per hr K500; h9am-10pm) is available across the street fromMoon-Light Rest House, in the post officecompound.8Getting There & AwayMost people arrive in Thazi by train – the stationis about 300yd north of the main road. Busesdrop off and pick up passengers along the highwaynear Moon-Light Rest House.BusTo reach Thazi from Mandalay, take a bus toMeiktila (K3000, three hours) from the highwaybus station, then hop on a pick-up truck fromMeiktila to Thazi (K500, one hour).Heading east from Thazi, several buses leavebetween 7am and 11am daily bound for Kalaw(K2500, four hours), Shwenyaung (K3000, sixhours) and Taunggyi (K4000, seven hours).TRAVELRESTRICTIONSMost places between Thazi and Taunggyiare open to foreigners, but the onlyway to reach Kengtung from insideMyanmar is by air. Even then, you aregenerally not allowed to exit the countryat Tachileik, and must fly back theway you came (or to somewhere elsewithin Myanmar).Confusing things even more, touristsentering Myanmar from Thailand viaTachileik are only permitted to travel asfar as Kengtung – it’s not possible tocross to China nor will you be allowedto fly anywhere else in the country. Fordetails on this border, go to p 197 .Parts of Kayah State are open toforeign tourists, but only to those whohave received advance permissionand who have booked a governmentsanctionedpackage tour. For details onarranging this go to p 198 .Fares are typically doubled for foreigners. To geta seat on one of the more comfortable expressbuses between Mandalay and Taunggyi, you’llneed to make an advance reservation – the staffat the Moon-Light can help.Pick-Up Truck & TaxiThere are frequent pick-ups for Kalaw, Shwenyaungand Taunggyi, charging the same as busesbut taking longer and not quite as comfortable.A few long-distance taxis loiter around thestation in Thazi charging $70 to Kalaw and $90to Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) near Inle Lake. You’llneed to bargain hard for a fair price.TrainThazi is an important stop on the rail route betweenYangon and Mandalay, and also one endof the scenic mountain line to Shwenyaung. Forinformation on getting here from Yangon seep 71 , and from Mandalay see p 222 .A horse cart from the station to the bus standwill cost around K1000.YANGON Ordinary $9 to $12, upper $24to $28; 11 to 12 hours; departures 7.45am,8.17am, 9am, 12.25am.MANDALAY Ordinary $3, upper $8; threehours; departures 3.52am, 4.19am, 7.22am,5.41am, 8.44am, 6.04pm.SHWENYAUNG Fare $5; nine hours; departure5am.KALAW Fare $3; six hours; departure 5am.167THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE SLEEPING THAZI& EATING

168MandalayPyin Oo LwinEASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKEBagan2MyingyanMAGWEREGIONMeiktila1Thazi3Ye-Ngan441PindayaHehoAungban41Shwe OoMin NaturalCave PagodaShwenyaungTaunggyiNyaungshwe44MagweMANDALAYREGIONFive DayMarketSankarKakkuTaungdwingyiKalawInleLake2NaypyidawPyinmana5LoikawKAYAHSTATEBAGOTaungooKAYINSTATE5Eastern Myanmar Highlights1 Drift around thebackwaters, ruined stupas andtribal markets at Inle Lake(p 177 )2 Gasp at the sight of morethan 8700 golden buddhas inthe atmospheric cave pagodaat Pindaya (p 175 )3 Go pagoda hopping thentrip out to traditional hill-tribevillages in Kengtung (p192 )

169Jinghong4SHANSTATEMong LaWan Nyek & Wan Saen4Pin TauHo KyimKengtungLoi-mweCHINAMong YawngTHAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE 8 THAZITachileikLAOSMae SaiXieng KokThanlwinRiverChiang RaiMae Hong SonTHAILAND0 200 km0 120 miles4 Hike through mountains,fields and villages on theclassic trek from Kalaw toInle Lake (p 172 )5 Pick up a unique souvenir(or at least some uniquephotos) at the Inle Lake area’sFive Day Market (p183 )6 Get off the beaten trackon an overnight trek throughthe tea-tree-studded hillssurrounding Pindaya (p 175 )7 Witness 2478 seeminglyabandoned stupas at Kakku(p192 )

170EASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKEKalawkel;%081 / POP C10,000Founded as a hill station by British civil servantsfleeing the heat of the plains, Kalawstill feels like a high-altitude holiday resort:the air is cool, the atmosphere is calm, thestreets are leafy and green, and the surroundinghills offer some of the best trekkingin Myanmar.In addition to foreign trekkers, Kalaw hasa significant population of Nepali Gurkhasand Indian Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims, whocame here to build the roads and railwayline during the British period.1SightsRight in the centre of Kalaw is Aung ChanTha Zedi, a glittery stupa (Buddhist ceremonialtower), covered in gold- and silvercolouredglass mosaics.The town market (Merchant Rd; h6am-5pm) is also worth a browse – several stallssell dried fruit and local liqueurs. Every fivedays the market is swelled by traders fromhill-tribe villages around Kalaw.South of the market, the myriad stupasof Hsu Taung Pye Paya were restored fromruins using donations from visiting pilgrims.For a good view over the market area,take the steps on the north side of UnionHwy to Thein Taung Paya, a modest Buddhistmonastery with a small congregationof friendly monks.There are more Buddhist monuments onthe outskirts of Kalaw; see our suggestedself-guided day hike in the Activities sectionfor details.2 ActivitiesDay HikeAlthough trekking in the hills around Kalawwithout a guide is not recommended, thereare some interesting and easy-to-find sightsjust outside town that can be tackled in theform of a self-guided, half-day walk.Starting at the market, head south onMin St, continuing to University St at theroundabout-like junction (the park will beon your left). Following the hilly, pine-linedroad, and veering left at the junction afterthe Pine View Inn, it should take another tento fifteen minutes to reach Christ the KingChurch (University Rd), which was run by thesame Italian priest from 1931 to 2000. Hissuccessor, Father Paul, presides over an enthusiasticdaily mass at 6.30am and a wellattendedSunday service at 8am and 4pm.KalawABC0 200 m#e 0 0.1 milesD12ú#17ú#19‚To Thazi(58mi)# Ú 45#ò20 # Ø Bus15ú#Ticket î#Hospital10ú#ÿ##›8 1112Officesÿ## # #ÿ ÿ 14ÿð#6#Ø ˜## Ú1#þ9ÿ#13 ÿ#24 #æ 3ü#23ÿ#Buses to722 û##›Taunggyiû#21 ð#Aung Chan Tha St18 ú#ú#16# Ú 2 ß#MosqueNatsin RdThirimingalar StZatila StUnion HwyYatana StAungThaPyaySt‚Butar StKone Thae StTo Heho (16mi);Taunggyi (43mi)‚12Thidar St# ñ3Min St3A‚To Pine View TrainInn (800m)StationBC66#£D

Return the way you came until you reachthe intersection with Oo Min St (indicatedby the sign for Pine Hill Resort). Turn leftand continue about ten minutes or so untilyou see a group of pagodas on your left; thisis Shwe Oo Min Paya (Oo Min Rd), a naturalcave dripping with golden Buddha statues(and also just dripping – watch your footingon the slippery marble pathways).After exploring the caves, continue alongthe road until you reach a T-junction. Turnright, as indicated by the wooden sign withgold letters; this and similar signs will leadyou to Hnee Pagoda, home to 500-year-old,gold-lacquered bamboo Buddha.Kalawæ Sights1 Aung Chan Tha Zedi............................C22 Hsu Taung Pye Paya ...........................B23 Market ..................................................C24 Thein Taung Paya................................ C1Ø Activities, Courses & Tours5 Ever Smile ............................................ C16 Sam's Trekking Guide ......................... C1ÿ Sleeping7 Dream Villa Motel Kalaw .....................B28 Eastern Paradise Motel....................... B19 Golden Kalaw Inn.................................A210 Golden Lilly Guest House.................... A111 Honey Pine Hotel................................. B112 New Shine Hotel .................................. B113 Parami Motel........................................B214 Winner Hotel Kalaw ............................. B1ú Eating15 3N South Indian Food ......................... C116 Everest Nepali Food Centre................B2FMD Indian Food........................ (see 20)Morning Star .............................. (see 22)17 Pyae Pyae Shan Noodle...................... A118 Sam's Family Restaurant....................B2Tet Nay Win Teahouse.............. (see 23)19 Thirigayha Restaurant ........................ A120 Thu Maung Restaurant ....................... C1ûüDrinking21 Golden Wing.........................................C222 Hi Snack & Drink..................................B223 Ma Hnin Si Teahouse ..........................C2þ Shopping24 Rural Development SocietyShop...................................................C2After paying your respects, backtrackalong Hnee Pagoda St and turn left at theintersection. Continue along this road untilyou reach the T-junction; turn right on SaittaThukha St and after about ten minutes orso you’ll merge with Thidar St just behindHsu Taung Pye Paya.TrekkingAlmost everyone who comes to Kalaw goestrekking in the hills. The town is surroundedby Buddhist pagodas, hilltop viewpoints andthe peaceful villages of the Palaung, Danu,Pa-O, Taung Yo and Danaw tribes, all set ina gorgeous landscape of forest-capped hills.The level of development varies as youmove from village to village. Some tribeswear traditional clothing and live withoutelectricity or running water, while their immediateneighbours watch European footballon satellite TV. The standard of livingfor tribal people across the region has beenraised by development projects run by theUN and other international NGOs. Mostvillagers depend primarily on farming, butsome subsidise their income by makinghandicrafts and providing meals and accommodationfor visiting trekkers.The most popular trek is undoubtedlythe two- to four-day trek to Inle Lake (fordetails, see our boxed text on p 172 ). A lesscommon route is the multi-day trek to Pindaya,via Taung Ni. Popular destinations forone-day or overnight treks around Kalawinclude the Myin Ma Hti Cave, the Pa-O villagessouth of Lamaing, and the Pa-O, Danuand Taung Yo villages near Myin Dike trainstation. Another popular route runs southwestfrom Kalaw to the Palaung villages ofYwathit and Tar Yaw and the Viewpoint, arustic, Nepali-run restaurant with sweepingviews over the hills. If you’re interested innature more than culture, Moteh, who canbe found at the Viewpoint, offers a day orovernight ‘jungle’ trek through a protectedforest. Trekkers sleep in the woods or stayovernight at a Taung Yo village; contactRamu at Golden Lily Guest House (p 173 ) fordetails on this trek.On single-day treks, the only equipmentyou need is a pair of good walking shoes.Meals are usually included in the price of thetrek, but you should buy and carry your owndrinking water. Trekking goes on year-round,but expect muddy conditions during the rainyseason (approximately June to October).Trekking without a guide is not recommended– the trails are confusing, the171THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE ACTIVITIESKALAW

172EASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKETREKKING FROM KALAW TO INLE LAKEInstead of enduring another never-ending bus ride, consider walking the distance betweenKalaw and Inle Lake. There are numerous alternative routes to take you to the lakeshore and, depending on the route that you and your guide agree upon, the journey cantake between two and four days.Although scenic, it’s important to understand that this trek is more of a cultural (oreven agricultural) experience than a nature walk. The only real forest you’ll encounter isjust outside Kalaw and the bulk of the trek passes through relatively modern Pa-O andDanu settlements and extensive wheat, rice, tea, potato, sesame and chilli plantations.At some points you’ll be walking on footpaths, while other parts of the trek are on roads(both paved and unpaved) or even along train tracks. You’ll most likely spend one nightwith a Pa-O or Danu family and another at a Buddhist temple.If you’re doing the standard three-day option, expect to walk at least four hours a day.From Kalaw, the initial part of the trek passes through tall mountains fringed with tea plantations.The second day passes through hilly agricultural areas and the last day is a mixof the two. It’s mostly level walking, the only truly steep part being the descent/ascent to/from Thandaung at Inle Lake. There are numerous alternate long and short routes; somechoose to go by car to Lamaing and walk to Inle Lake in two days, while other guides havefound ways to extend the trip to four nights. Possible termination points at Inle Lake includeInthein, Tone Le, Thandaung or Kaung Daing. Discuss the options with your guide.The winter months are the best time to do the trek, the only downside being that you’llalmost certainly run into other trekkers – nights with as many as 50 people sleeping atthe monastery have been reported. During the rainy season many of the roads are irritatinglymuddy and slippery. Leeches and mosquitoes can also be a problem.Guides can arrange to have your bags transported to a hotel in Nyaungshwe, so youcarry only what you need for the walk – a towel and a torch (flashlight) are good extras tobring along.If arranging your trek from Kalaw, expect to pay between $8 and $12 per person, perday, in groups of three or more; if going at it alone, the trek will be at least $60 for the threedays. Keep in mind that cheaper day rates often don’t include the cost of shipping yourgear to your destination (at least K2000) and the boat fee at Inle Lake (about K13,000).Guides with extensive experience on this particular route include Nyaungshwe-basedPyone Cho at Lotus Restaurant (p 182 ) and the brothers Than Htay and Ko Htwe at SunnyDay Tour Services (p 187 ), and in Kalaw, Naing Naing at Ever Smile (%50683; Yuzana St),Harri and Rambo at Golden Lily Guest House, and Sam’s Trekking Guide (%50377;Union Hwy).terrain challenging and few people in thehills speak English. The going rate for aguided walk ranges from $5 to $7 per day,in groups of three or more. Rates increase ifyou’re hiking alone or if you’re overnighting.For day treks, JP Barua (%50549) gets goodreviews, or you could try any of the Kalawbasedguides who also do the Kalaw to InleLake trek (p 172 ).4SleepingKalaw has a generous spread of hotels andguesthouses, many set up specifically forbudget travellers. None of the hotels offerair-conditioning – in this climate they don’tneed to – and most places offer discounts inthe low season (May to October).oPine Hill Resort HOTEL $$(%50079; www.kalawpinehillresort.com; 151 Oo MinRd; r $50-60) Set around an original colonialbungalow, this sophisticated modern hotelhas rooms in wooden cottages sprawlingthrough immaculate gardens. It’s undoubtedlythe most atmospheric place to stay inKalaw, the only downside being that it’s agood ten-minute walk from the city centre.To get here, follow Min St south, turningright at the second intersection, or hop ona motorcycle taxi (K500) near the market .Dream Villa Hotel Kalaw HOTEL $$(%50144; 5 Zatila St; dreamvilla@myanmar.com.mm; r $20-36) A cut above your averageMyanmar hotel, the Dream Villa attractstour groups and has tasteful, wood-panelled

ooms and lots of potted greenery. More expensiverooms have tubs and minibars andsome have hill views.Eastern Paradise Motel HOTEL $(%50315; 5 Thirimingalar St; r $7-15) Like muchof the accommodation in Kalaw, this placecalls itself a motel, but there’s no need tobe suspicious of the unintentionally selfdeprecatingmoniker; large homey roomsand gracious service make this one of thebest deals in town.Honey Pine Hotel HOTEL $(%50728; 44 Zatila St; s/d/tr $10/20/30) Of thehandful of new hotels going up in Kalaw,this was the only one finished at researchtime. The budget-priced rooms here includemidrange amenities such as TV and fridge,although the single rooms lack windows andfeel a bit tight.Golden Lily Guest House HOTEL $(%50108; goldenlily@mandalay.net.mm; 5/88 NatsinRd; r $3-10; i) A chalet mood pervades atthis large, budget complex. The more expensiverooms share a wide balcony that looksover the town. They’re also substantially nicerthan the cheaper rooms, the shared bathroomsof which could really use some work.Trekking can be arranged here, although it’san annoying hard-sell. Slow internet accessis available for K1000 for 30 minutes.Pine View Inn HOTEL $(%50185; University Rd; s/d $10/15) If you’drather stay in the leafy part of town, this quiethotel offers plain but tidy rooms in a newbungalow block or an older wooden house.It’s a ten-minute walk from the city centre.Follow Min St south or hop on a motorcycletaxi at the market (K500).Golden Kalaw Inn HOTEL $(%50311; 5/92 Natsin Rd; s/d $5/8, with sharedbathroom $3/6) The rooms here are about asbasic as they come, but are clean. The balconyand front yard catch the afternoon sunshine.New Shine Hotel HOTEL $(%50028; newshine@myanmar.com.mm; 21 UnionHwy; s/d $10/20) Targeting travellers on organisedtours, the New Shine is cosier in than out.Parami Motel HOTEL $(%50027; Kone Thae St; s/d $8/15, with sharedbathroom $5/10) Set in two pale-blue blocksbehind the Winner Hotel, the Parami hasfriendly owners and modest but inexpensiverooms.Winner Hotel Kalaw HOTEL $(%50025; Union Hwy; s/d $15/18, with shared bathroom$6/12) A large, modern Chinese-stylehotel on the main road, the Winner holdsfew surprises, but rooms are large, unclutteredand clean.5Eating & DrinkingKalaw has some decent places to chowdown, many serving food with a distinctiveIndian or Nepali flavour.Thu Maung Restaurant BURMESE $$(Union Hwy; meals from K2500; hlunch & dinner)Probably the best Burmese restaurant intown, Thu Maung serves tasty chicken, porkand fish curries with all the usual Myanmarsalads, pickles and trimmings. There’s noEnglish-language sign here, but it’s the restaurantdirectly adjacent to the steps leadingto Thein Taung Paya.Pyae Pyae Shan Noodle SHAN $(Union Hwy; noodles from K500; hall day) Thiscosy, friendly shop sells delicious bowls ofthe eponymous noodle, as well as a shortmenu of rice-based dishes.Sam’s FamilyRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Aung Chan Tha St; mains from K1000; hall day)Run by the same family that operates Sam’sTrekking Guide, this cosy little place servesIndian, Myanmar and Chinese standardsand old-fashioned backpacker breakfasts.ThirigayhaRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $$(Seven Sisters; Union Hwy; meals from K5000;hlunch & dinner) If you want a romantic dinner,there’s really only one choice in town.The menu ranges from Shan traditionalmeals to beef stroganoff, noodle soups andIndian curries and there’s often a guitaristserenading diners.Everest Nepali Food Centre NEPALI $(Aung Chan Thar St; set meals from K2000; hlunch& dinner) Relive memories of trekking in Nepalwith a plate of dhal baht (rice servedwith lentils and other side dishes) at thisconvivial eatery run by a Nepali family whooriginally came to Myanmar from Pokhara.FMD Indian Food MUSLIM, INDIAN $(Union Hwy; mains from K1500; hlunch & dinner)FMD specialises in rich, meaty MusliminfluencedIndian dishes. Stop in on Sundaywhen they do biryani.173THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE EATING KALAW& DRINKING

174EASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKE3N South Indian Food INDIAN $(Union Hwy; meals from K1500; hlunch & dinner)Probably as authentic as that Italian restaurantyou ate at in Nyaungshwe, but tasty andgood for vegetarians.There are several good teashops in Kalaw,many with a distinct Indian feel. All areopen from breakfast to lunch, and a snackbreakfast should set you back less thanK1000.Morning Star TEAHOUSE $(Kone Thae St) The sign’s faded, but it’s hardto miss this tidy, bright-blue teashop. Coupleyour sweet tea with equally sweet Indiansweets.Ma Hnin Si Teahouse TEAHOUSE $(Butar St) This tiny teahouse on the east sideof the market has no English sign but youcan’t miss it – just look for the crowds oflocals enjoying plates of pakoda (vegetablesfried in lentil-flour batter), Shan tofu andother tasty deep-fried snacks.Tet Nay Win Teahouse TEAHOUSE $(Butar St) An Indian-style teahouse servingsamosas, nanbya, channa puri (fried breadwith chickpea curry) and other treats fromthe subcontinent.Hi Snack & DrinkBAR(Kone Thae St; h5-10pm) Hi is the size of acloset and boasts a palpable speakeasy feel.If you haven’t had a rum here, you haven’tbeen to Kalaw. Mr Myo is a welcoming host,and there’s a ragged guitar that takes embarrassinglylittle prompting to get played.Golden WingBEER STATION(Min St; h5-10pm) South of the market, thistypical Chinese beer station has Dagonand Skol beer on draught, as well as grilledsnacks.7 ShoppingA couple of art galleries around the marketsell paintings of monks, tribal people andmountain scenery; some ordinary and othersvery good.Rural DevelopmentSociety ShopHANDICRAFTS(Min St; adr1992@gmail.com; h8.30am-6.30pm)On the west side of the market, this charitableenterprise sells fabrics, clothing andhandmade paper produced by local tribes.Profits go towards development projects inlocal Shan and Pa-O villages.8InformationIn addition to the two cafes below, internet is alsoavailable at Golden Lily Guest House (p 173 ).Cyber World Internet Café (Aung Chan Tha St;per hr K1000; h8am-11pm)Sky Net (Kone Thae St; per hr K500; hnoon-11pm)8Getting There & AwayAirKalaw has no airport of its own, but fl ights areserved via Heho, about 16 miles away.Air Mandalay (www.airmandalay.com) fl iesfrom Heho to Yangon at 9.30am, 9.40am and4.30pm ($86, one to three hours), with theafternoon flight routing through Mandalay ($42,25 minutes) and Nyaung U (for Bagan; $68, onehour). Air Bagan (www.airbagan.com), operatedby Tay Za (see p 21 ), also fl ies a similar route toYangon at 8.45am, 9.45am and 4.40pm ($95, oneto three hours), with the afternoon fl ight stoppingin Mandalay ($53, 25 minutes) and Nyaung U(Bagan; $75, one hour). Air Bagan also operates adaily flight to Thandwe (Ngapali Beach; $122, onehour), Asian Wings (www.asianwingsairways.com) and Air Bagan also conduct fl ights betweenHeho and Kengtung ($85, one hour).Taxis waiting at the airport charge K30,000 toKalaw (1½ hours); a cheaper but less convenientoption is to hike the near mile to the Union Hwyand wait for a pick-up truck or bus bound forThazi (K2000, 1½ hours) or Meiktila (K1500, onehour), although you may face a long wait.Bus & TaxiFor information on buses from Yangon see p 70 .Several bus ticket offices across from themarket book seats on the long-distance busesbetween Yangon and Mandalay and Taunggyi.These buses stop on the main road, in front ofthe market.Small local buses bound for Taunggyi departfrom a stop behind the Aung Chang Tha Zedi.Buses, minivans and pick-up trucks bound forThazi will drop you in Shwenyaung (Inle Lake;two hours) for the same fare, or in Aungban (thejunction for Pindaya; 20 minutes) for K1000.Buses, minivans and pick-ups to Thazi (K2500,four hours) or Meiktila (K3000, fi ve hours) stopperiodically on the Union Hwy – fares for foreignersare routinely doubled along this route.You can charter taxis from Kalaw to Pindaya(K35,000, two hours), Nyaungshwe (K35,000),Taunggyi (K40,000) and Thazi (K65,000).TrainA single daily train departs from either end ofthe winding line that links Thazi and Shwenyaung.Stunning scenery makes up for the slowjourney time and frequent delays. See p 167 for

BUSES & PICK-UP TRUCKS FROM KALAW175DESTINATION FARE (K) DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE TYPEYangon14,00012-154pm-5.30pmair-con busesMandalay 8000-10,000 9 8am, 8pm air-con busesBagan12,000-13,0006-87amair-con busTaunggyi 2000 3 6am, 6.30am, 7am non-air-con bus,pick-upThazi250046am-2pmpick-upinformation on departures from Thazi and p 184for departures from Shwenyaung (Inle Lake).Heading to Shwenyaung, the train pulls intoKalaw around 10am ($3, three hours); to Thazi, departureis at 1pm ($5, six hours), but trains oftenleave hours behind the offi cial departure times.8Getting AroundMost people choose to walk around town butmotorcycle taxis at the northeast corner of themarket can run you to Hnee Pagoda or the ShweOo Min caves and back for around K2000.Pindayap='"dy%081 / C5000The road to Pindaya cuts across one of themost densely farmed areas in Myanmar – atfirst glance, the patchwork of fields and hedgescould almost be a landscape from centralEurope or middle America. Along the way,you’ll pass buffalo carts and groups of toilingfarmers in black Danu tunics and checkedPa-O headscarves. The main reason to makethis appealing journey is to visit the famousShwe Oo Min Natural Cave pagoda, a massivelimestone cavern filled with thousands ofgilded buddha statues, but the hills aroundPindaya are also home to a nascent trekkingscene.1Sights & ActivitiesoShwe Oo Min NaturalCave PagodaBUDDHIST CAVE PAGODAeráwm='s.;0lHUi='8U.urC"(admission $3, camera fee K300; h6am-6pm)There are several ‘Golden Cave’ temples inShan State, but Pindaya’s Shwe Oo Min pagodais by far the most impressive. Set highon a limestone ridge above Pone TalokeLake, this winding complex of natural cavesand tunnels is filled to bursting point withbuddha images in an astonishing variety ofshapes, sizes and materials, many gaudilydaubed with gold paint.At the latest count, the caves containedmore than 8700 statues, some left centuriesago by Burmese pilgrims and others newlyinstalled by Buddhist organisations from asfar afield as Singapore, the Netherlands andthe USA. The collection of alabaster, teak,marble, brick, lacquer and cement imagesis still growing – pilgrims arrive in a slowbut steady stream, installing new imagesand meditating in tiny meditation chambersformed by natural cavities in the cave walls.A series of covered stairways climb theridge to the cave entrance. Most people arrivevia the long stairway that starts near thegleaming white zedi (stupas) of Nget PyawTaw Pagoda, just south of the ConquerorHotel. You can skip the last 130 steps to thecave mouth by taking the lift.Two more covered stairways lead northfrom the lift pavilion. One descends gentlyback to Pindaya, while the other climbs toa second cave pavilion containing a monumental40ft-high, gilded, Shan-style sittingbuddha. The steps continue along the ridgeto a third chamber with a large recliningbuddha and more shrines and pagodasalong the hilltop.The easiest way to reach the caves is towalk along the tarmac road past the GoldenCave and Conqueror Hotels; it’s about twomiles and takes 20 minutes or so. Alternatively,an easy-to-follow track runs straightto the cave complex from the western shoreof Pone Ta Loke Lake – just follow the roadalong the lake shore and turn right afterthe Pindaya Hotel; the path branches offto the left over a small bridge and, after ashort walk, connects with the long slopingstairway that leads to the main cave. A horsecart from the market to the Nget Pyaw Tawpagoda entrance will cost K1000.THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE 8 PINDAYA

176EASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKEALONG CAME A SPIDERAs you enter Pindaya, keep an eye outfor the official town symbol – an archerand a giant spider. According to legend,seven princesses took refuge in ShweOo Min cave during a storm, and wereimprisoned by an evil nat (spirit being)in the form of a giant spider. Luckily forthem, Prince Kummabhaya of Nyaungshwe(Yaunghwe) was strolling nearby.Hearing their pleas for help, the heroicprince killed the spider with an arrowand freed the princesses from thecave. You can see some Disney-esquesculptures of the spider and prince bythe entrance to the Shwe Oo Min cavecomplex.Other StupasDownhill from the main cave on the dirtpath to Pone Taloke lake, the gorgeous HsinKhaung Taung Kyaung was constructedfrom carved teak panels in the late 19th century.The steps to the main cave start justbeyond the kyaung (monastery) – the pathis lined with ancient crumbling zedi.At the north end of Pone Taloke Lake, theKan Tau Monastery features some heavilyrestored stupas and a fine teak kyaung witha large collection of antique buddha imageson ornate plinths.TreksA few local guides lead day and overnighttreks in the area. Most head straight forYazagyi, an attractive and modern Palaungvillage located in hilly tea-plantation countryabout five hours’ walk from Pindaya.Treks start at about $10 a day per person,and experienced guides include U MyintThaung at Old Home Tour InformationCentre (p 177 ) and Soe Soe at Golden CaveHotel (p 176 ).zFestivals & EventsThe main annual paya pwe (pagoda festival)at Shwe Oo Min takes place on the fullmoon of Tabaung (February/March). Expectall the usual singing, dancing and handoperatedfairground rides.4SleepingThe only cheap option is in the town itself, a20-minute walk from the caves.oPindaya Inle Inn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(%66029; www.pindayainleinn.com; MahabandoolaRd; r/chalets $45/100) Located at the entranceto town, across the lake from Shwe Oo MinPagoda, this is a surprisingly sophisticatedplace to stay – for a small town like Pindaya.Rooms are set in either bamboo or stone cottagesin a lovingly tended garden centred ona longhouse-style restaurant and bar.Conqueror Resort Hotel HOTEL $$$(%66106; www.conquererresorthotel.com; bungalows$55-80, ste $100;s) There isn’t a bladeof grass out of place at this immaculatelymaintained resort hotel near the main entranceto the caves. Rooms are set in cottagesaround a central restaurant and a large,inviting pool. Choose from bamboo villas,wooden stilt houses or stone chalets – all areluxuriously appointed, with a TV, a minibarand a stylish bathroom.Myit Phyar Zaw Gji Hotel HOTEL $(%66403; 106 Zaytan Quarter; s/d $10/15) Nextto the market and close to the lake shore,this is the closest Pindaya has to budgetaccommodation. It’s tidy and friendly andgood value for money. Some rooms face thelake.Golden Cave Hotel HOTEL $$(%66166; www.goldencavehotel.com; r $20-35) Awarm welcome awaits at this unassumingmidrange hotel a short walk from the startof the steps to the Shwe Oo Min cave. Thesmarter superior rooms in the annexe havebalconies looking towards the caves, and arealso equipped with a TV and a minibar.5EatingMost of Pindaya’s dining scene is very workaday.If you don’t require doilies with yourdinner, check out one of the options below,otherwise you may want to stick with therestaurants at Conqueror Resort Hotel orPindaya Inle Inn.Green TeaRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $$(mains K2000-7000; hlunch & dinner) Locatedbetween the market and Shwe Oo Min Pagoda,this open-air dining room lookingover Pone Taloke Lake is definitely one ofthe posher places in town to dine. The menuspans several cuisines and the Myanmarfood is better than you’d expect from a placelike this. There are even a few local (Danustyle)dishes on the menu.

Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K1500; hlunch & dinner) Mere stepsfrom the town’s market, this echoing beerhall is where local dudes come to have adrink after work. Visitors (including women)are welcome too, and you can accompanyyour draught Dagon with standard andnot-so-standard Chinese-Burmese dishes,such as pig-lip salad!Memento Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $$(mains from K1500; hlunch & dinner) Also alongthe road that leads to Shwe Oo Min Pagoda,Memento is an example of a restaurant tryingtoo hard to please day-tripping foreigners.The menu here includes dishes such aspork ball Vichy, and our ‘traditional food’order was a very untraditional combinationof fish and French fries fried with turmericand ginger.Kyan Lite Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K1000; hall day) On the lake shoreclose to the market, Kyan Lite serves coldbeers and a familiar menu of Myanmar Chinesedishes, as well as boxes of Shan tea.8InformationThere was no functioning internet connection inPindaya at the time of research.Old Home Tour Information Centre (%66188;h9am-5pm) Located at the market intersection.Here you’ll fi nd friendly local U Myint Thaung,who sells a small selection of books and antiques,and leads treks and day tours.8Getting There & AwayThere is only limited public transport to Pindayaso unless you’re willing to charter a taxi, you’llprobably have to stay a night.BUS Coming from Taunggyi, there are twodaily buses at 1pm and 1.30pm (K2000, fourhours). If starting from Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake),you can catch one of these buses up the roadin Shwenyaung starting at 2pm (K2000, threehours).Starting from Kalaw, your best bet is to takea bus or pick-up truck to Aungban – any of theTaunggyi-bound morning buses/trucks can dropyou off here (K1000, 20 minutes). From Aungban,a single daily pick-up leaves at 8am (K1000,1½ hours) from near Mikhine Restaurant, at thejunction at the north end of town.Leaving Pindaya, there are Taunggyi-boundbuses at 5.30am and 5.45am (K2000), and asingle daily pick-up departure to Aungban at9am (K1000, 1½ hours), all of which depart fromnear the market intersection.TAXI It is much more convenient, thoughmuch more expensive, to complete the journeyfrom Aungban to Pindaya by taxi. Driversloiter on the main street in Aungban, chargingK25,000 for a drop-off in Pindaya and K30,000for a return trip to the caves. Motorcycle taxiswill take you to Pindaya from Aungban for aboutK6000.INLE LAKEPlacid Inle Lake (a='"el"kn') ranks amongMyanmar’s top five tourist attractions,which ensures that visitors come here indroves. The once-sleepy village of Nyaungshweat the north end of the lake has growninto a bustling traveller centre, with dozensof guesthouses and hotels, a surfeit of restaurantsserving pancakes and pasta, and apleasantly relaxed traveller vibe. If Myanmarcould be said to have a backpacker scene atall, it can be found here.On paper Inle Lake is 13.5 miles long and7 miles wide but up close it’s hard to tellwhere the lake finishes and the marshesstart. Looking down over the lake from theTaunggyi road, Inle sits like a puddle on anenormous carpet of greenery. Dotted aroundthe lake are the stilt-house villages andfloating gardens of the Intha tribe. Youmay also encounter Shan, Pa-O, Taung Yo,Danu, Kayah and Danaw tribal people at themarkets that hopscotch around the lake ona five-day cycle.Boats are the main means of transportaround the lake – travellers tend to exploreon motorised canoes (a little like Thai longtailboats) but most Intha people get aroundusing traditional flat-bottomed skiffs propelledby a single wooden paddle. The Inthatechnique of leg rowing – where one leg iswrapped around the paddle to drive theblade through the water in a snake-like motion– is unique.The waters cool the surrounding air considerably.A pall of mist hangs over the lakebefore sunrise and during the morning, andevenings can be surprisingly cold. Bring acoat or buy a blanket in the market to keepoff the wind chill on boat tours around thelake.zFestivals & EventsInle comes alive during late September orearly October for the Phaung Daw Oo PayaFestival at Phaung Daw Oo Paya. The fourrevered golden buddha images from the177INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR 88 PINDAYA

MainRd178EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKEpagoda are ferried around the lake in a gildedbarge shaped like a hintha (the golden swanof Burmese legend) visiting all the pagodasin the area. The festival lasts for 18 days andlocals carry out energetic leg-rowing races onthe channels between the villages.The pagoda festival is closely followed byThadingyut, which marks the end of Waso(Buddhist Lent).8 InformationThere is a compulsory $5 government fee toenter the Inle Lake area, which you must pay onarrival at the permit booth (Map p 178 ; h6am-9pm) by the bridge at the entrance to Nyaungshwe.We cruised into town on an extremelypacked bus from Taunggyi and circumventedpaying the fee, and we were never asked to showproof of payment later, suggesting the authoritiesmay not take it very seriously. Best to be onthe safe side, though.Nyaungshwee–;='erá%081 / POP C10,000The main traveller centre for the Inle Lakearea, Nyaungshwe is a neat grid of streetsnext to the main canal, also known as NanChaung, leading down to the north end ofthe lake. Originally known by the Shan nameYaunghwe, the town was renamed Nyaungshwe(Golden Banyan) by the Bamar-dominatedauthorities after independence in 1948.1Sights & ActivitiesYadana Man Aung Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE(Map p 178 ; Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; h6am-10pm) Theoldest and most important Buddhist shrinein Nyaungshwe, this handsome gilded stupais hidden away inside a square compoundsouth of the Mingala Market. The steppedstupa is unique in Myanmar, and the surroundingpavilion contains a museum oftreasures amassed by the monks over thecenturies, including carvings, lacquerwareand dance costumes.Buddha MuseumMUSEUM(Map p 178 ; Museum Rd (Haw St); admission $2;h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun) Formerly the Museumof Shan Chiefs, this sprawling governmentrunmuseum has fallen victim to the governmentcrackdown on symbols of Shan ethnicidentity. Today the museum displays antiquebuddha images rather than any objects thatmight suggest a distinct Shan history andculture. It’s worth coming here to see thestately brick-and-teak haw (palace) of the33rd and last Shan sao pha (sky lord), SaoShwe Thaike, who briefly served as the firstpresident of Independent Burma, before thejunta seized control.‚To Shwe YaunghweKyaung (1.5mi)# ï PermitBooth16#Motorcycle22 311Taxi Stand ˜# ÿú## âTeik Nan# ÿú#281536 ú## ÿ24Bridge 1738û## Ø8To KaungPick-up# ÿ Stand# Ø6Daingý#40ú##› û#39 # Ø ú#30(5mi)7ú#14#ÿ ú#26 # ðú#Yone Gyi Rd34 # ÿ37 f#ð#331635ú#2# ÿ20Golden 29# ÚIsland ú### ÿ # ÿÿ2Cottages25f## ú#School4#Ú 181032ð#Sports# Ú 5Field # á IndependenceMonumentMiddle23 # ÿ1319School# ÿ21#ÿ# ÿ3f## Ú12#ÿ9# ÿMiddleSchool3Nan Chaung(Main Canal)Kann Nar Rd(Strand Rd)AJetty RdTo Inle # ÿ 11Lake (3.5mi) Yan Aung Nan AungHsu Taung Pyi‚Pagoda (150m)APhaungDawSeiqRdKyauktein RdKyaung Taw Anouk RdB27 ú#Hospitalî#B#e 0 0.25 milesCDNyaungshwe0 500 m‚‚‚‚Mong Li CanalMuseum Rd(Haw St)Myawady RdPhaung Daw Pyan RdMingala RdTo PrincessGarden Hotel To Maing(150m) Thauk (6mi)C‚Ahletaung Kyaung RdHighSchool66D123

Mingala MarketMARKET(Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd) The busy zei (market)at the entrance to town is flooded with localsevery morning, when traders from thelake bring in fresh fish and produce fromthe floating gardens. A few stalls sell localhandicrafts but the focus is on day-to-dayobjects used by local people – food, beggingbowls, machetes, fishing spears, you nameit. The market doubles in size when it hoststhe five-day rotating market (see boxed text,p 183 ).Other Religious MonumentsThere are stupas and monasteries all overNyaungshwe. Most of the monasteries areclustered around the Mong Li Canal, southeastof the market.Hlaing Gu Kyaung (Map p 178 ; off Yone GyiRd) has around 100 resident monks and aninteresting collection of antique Buddha images.Nearby, Shwe Gu Kyaung (Map p 178 ;Myawady Rd) has 130 novice monks and ahuge central hall that echoes with the soundof synchronised chanting. A block furthersouth, Kan Gyi Kyaung (Map p 178 ; MyawadyRd) is the largest monastery in Nyaungshwe;listening to 250 monks of all ages recitingthe scriptures is quite an experience.About a mile and a half north of town onthe road to Shwenyaung, Shwe YaunghweKyaung (off Map p 178 ; Shwe Yan Pyay) is probablythe most photographed monastery in Nyaungshwe;the unique oval windows in theancient teak thein (ordination hall) create aperfect frame for portraits of the novices.South of Nyaungshwe in the village ofNanthe, Yan Aung Nan Aung Hsu Taung PyiPagoda (Map p 185 ) features a 26ft-high sittingbuddha, surrounded by stucco deva (celestialbeings) and chinthe (half-lion, half-dragonguardians). Although heavily restored, thestatue is said to be more than 700 years old.Boat TripsEvery hotel in town can arrange boat tripsaround the lake, and freelance boat driverswill approach you in the street. The goingrate for a whole-day trip around the lakestarts at K12,000.MassageWin Nyunt Traditional Massage (Map p 178 ;off Myawady Rd; per hr K5000; h8am-9pm) is the179INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR SIGHTS & SIGHTS NYAUNGSHWEACTIVITIES & ACTIVITIESNyaungshweæ Sights23 Queen Inn................................................A21 Buddha Museum ....................................D1 24 Remember Inn Hotel.............................. D12 Hlaing Gu Kyaung .................................. C2 25 Teakwood Guest House.........................B23 Kan Gyi Kyaung ..................................... C24 Shwe Gu Kyaung ................................... C2 ú Eating5 Yadana Man Aung Paya ........................ B2 Food Stalls ...................................... (see 6)26 Golden Kite Restaurant .........................C2Activities, Courses & Tours27 Green Chilli Restaurant .........................B36 Mingala Market.......................................C1 28 Hu Pin Restaurant.................................. B17 Sunny Day Tour Services...................... B2 29 Inle Pancake Kingdom ...........................A28 Win Nyunt Traditional Massage ............C1 30 Lin Htett Myanmar TraditionalFood .....................................................C2ÿ Sleeping31 Lotus Restaurant ................................... C19 Aquarius Inn........................................... B3 32 Miss Nyaungshwe Restaurant ..............A210 Bright Hotel............................................ A2 33 Night Market...........................................B211 Four Sisters Inn ..................................... A3 34 Smiling Moon Restaurant......................D212 Gold Star Hotel ...................................... B3 35 Thu Kha Coffee.......................................B213 Gypsy Inn ............................................... A2 36 Unique Superb Food House .................. C114 Hotel Amazing Nyaung Shwe............... C2 37 Viewpoint Restaurant ............................A215 Hu Pin Hotel Nyaungshwe .....................B116 Inle Inn .................................................... D2 û Drinking17 Joy Hotel .................................................B1 38 Kaung Kaung .......................................... B118 May Guest House .................................. C2 39 Min Min’s.................................................B219 Ming Ga Lar Inn ..................................... B220 Nandawunn Hotel.................................. D2 ý Entertainment21 Nawng Kham – Little Inn....................... B2 40 Aung Puppet Show ................................ D122 Paradise Hotel & Restaurant.................C1

180EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKEplace to go to get the kinks out of your backif you’ve been sitting in a boat too long.TrekkingThere’s opportunity for day and overnighthikes around Inle Lake, or you could do thetrek to Kalaw. See p 187 for some suggesteddestinations and recommended guides.4SleepingNyaungshwe has dozens of hotels and guesthouses,ranging from basic backpackerhang-outs to comfortable midrange hotels.Most places offer low-season discounts fromMarch to October, but rates are open to negotiationmost of the time because of theintense competition.Almost all rooms have bathrooms with hotshowers, but few places offer air-con becauseof the natural cooling effect of the breezepassing over the lake. As is the case in muchof Myanmar, all room rates include breakfast.For accommodation on Inle Lake itselfsee p 187 .oTeakwood Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 250; teakwood.htl@gmail.com;Kyaung Taw Anouk Rd; r $10-25; i) Straddling thedivide between budget and midrange, thisattractive guesthouse is popular with olderindependent travellers. The best rooms arein the new block – big windows let in lotsof light and the bathrooms are finished withsmall pebbles. The communal areas are great,but be ready for some assertive sales pitchesfrom the owner for boat trips and excursions.oHotel AmazingNyaung Shwe BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 178 ; %209 079; www.amazing-hotel.com;Yone Gyi Rd; s/d $64/68, suite $86-130; aW) Aleague apart from the other hotels in Nyaungshwe,this immaculate boutique hotel hasgorgeous rooms decorated with murals andcultural artefacts. There’s also an open-airbreakfast pavilion on a bridge over the canal.Aquarius Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 352; aquarius352@gmail.com; 2Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; s/d $7/12) Charming ownersmake this small, family-run guesthouse areal home away from home. The cosy roomscontain an intriguing collection of local brica-bracand guests are treated to plates offresh fruit and Chinese tea. There are tablesand chairs in the plant-filled yard where youcan sit and chat in the evenings.Princess Garden Hotel HOTEL $$(Off map p 178 ; %209 214; princessgardenhotel@gmail.com; bungalows s/d $25/35; s) This hiddengem was the newest place in town atresearch time and the only one with a swimmingpool. The eight wooden bungalows arelocated in a shady garden and are looked afterby friendly, service-minded owners. Locatednear Mong Li Canal a brief walk southfrom the centre of town.Nawng Kham – Little Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 195; Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; s/d$6/12) Opposite the Aquarius Inn, this smallbut perfectly formed guesthouse has justseven rooms. All have fans, bathrooms andhot showers and are set in a peaceful garden.Considering the number of rooms, it’s agood idea to book ahead.May Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 417; 85 Myawady Rd; s/d/tr$7/12/16) Wagon wheels mounted in thefront wall set the tone at this village-styleguesthouse in the monastery quarter. Thesimple square rooms have fans and bathroomsand the breakfast is said to be one ofthe best in town.Hu Pin Hotel Nyaungshwe HOTEL $$(Map p 178 ; %209 291; www.hupinhotelmyanmar.com; r $36-50; a) The bland Chinese-stylerooms here won’t win any prizes for interiordesign, but everything is spotlessly clean,hot water is reliable and the hotel has itsown boats for trips around the lake. The HuPin is Nyaungshwe’s most imposing buildingand is located along the canal that leadsto Inle Lake.Queen Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 544; queen.ine@gmail.com; r$7-20) Located on the opposite side of theNan Chaung canal, this would be a budgeter’sdream if it weren’t for the noise ofboats. Rooms are simple, but the highlightis the homely feel, emphasised in the nightlyfamily-style dinners for only K2000.Inle Inn HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 016; inleinns@gmail.com; YoneGyi Rd; r $8-18) Potted plants and trellisescreate a pleasing cocoon of vegetation atthis village inn on the eastern side of town.Rooms are arranged around a shady sittingarea and restaurant.Ming Ga Lar Inn HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 198; mingalarinn@gmail.com;Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; r $7-18) A maze-like bud-

TOFU & HOT SPRINGSLocated on the northwestern shore of the lake, 5 miles from Nyaungshwe, Kaung Daing(ex:='tui=') is a quiet Intha village. It’s known for its tofu, prepared using split yellowpeas instead of soybeans, and its hot springs (Map p 185 ; swimming pool K3000, privatebathhouse K5000, mixed hot pool K5000; h6am-6pm), where hot water from the naturalsprings has been channelled into a swimming pool and a series of private bathhouses formen and women. The springs are also the start or end point of several trekking routesbetween Kalaw and Inle Lake – see p 172 for details.The attractions are admittedly low-key, and the real reason to come here is the bikeride through some beautiful Myanmar countryside. After renting a bicycle in Nyaungshwe,cross the bridge over the channel leading to the lake and follow the bone-shakingdirt track through the marshes until you reach the sealed road, then turn left. The trip tothe springs will take around 40 minutes.If you’d rather not expend so much energy, boat operators charge K3000 each wayfor the 30-minute trip across the lake, and motorcycle taxis at Mingala Market will ferryyou to the springs and back for K5000, including a couple of hours waiting time whileyou bathe.get place with a variety of room types. It’sworth considering the larger, more expensiverooms, which have cleverly been fittedout with bamboo.Gypsy Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 084; 82 Kann Nar Rd; s/d $12/15,without bathroom $5/10) Handy for accessingthe canal leading to the lake, this place hasan old block containing budget rooms withshared bathrooms. There’s also a much moreappealing new block of rooms with privatebaths.Joy Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 083; Jetty Rd; s/d $7/14, withoutbathroom $5/10) Set on the canal used bymarket traders delivering goods to MingalaMarket, Joy has more of a local feel thanthe other budget guesthouses. The cheaperrooms with shared bathrooms are small andboxy but there are better rooms with privatebathrooms and hot showers.Four Sisters Inn GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; %209 190; s/d $7/12) Away from theother guesthouses on the way to Yan AungNan Aung Hsu Taung Pyi Pagoda, this brightblue compound consists of small roomsaround an old village house with a cosy restaurant.Communicating in English can beproblematic.Bright Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 137; 53 Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; r$7-25) The price is the drawcard rather thanthe atmosphere at this big white place nearthe boat jetty. The standard rooms are fairlytypical for this kind of hotel but the moreinviting superior rooms have a tub, a TV anda minibar.The following places straddle budget andmidrange and take the very Nyaungshweform of a main hotel structure and surroundingduplex bungalow-like buildings:Nandawunn Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 178 ; %209 211; nandawunn@gmail.com; 80Yone Gyi Rd; r $15-25; ai) In a residential partof town, east of the market, this tidy compoundis probably the best of the lot for thisstyle of hotel in Nyaungshwe.Paradise Hotel & Restaurant HOTEL $$(Map p 178 ; %209 321; www.inleparadise.com; 40Museum Rd (Haw St); r $30-36, ste $65; ai)Paradise is probably overstating it, but thislarge chalet-style hotel near the museumis still a good choice. All rooms have a hotshower, a fridge, a TV and air-con.Remember Inn Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 257; www.rememberinn.jimdo.com; Museum Rd (Haw St); r $8-15; a) Acrossfrom museum in a quiet and leafy part oftown, the interior design won’t draw youhere, but the clean rooms, friendly serviceand cheap prices will.Gold Star Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 178 ; %209 200; goldstarhtl@mandalay.net.mm; cnr Kyauktein Rd & Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; r$8-25; a) A mish-mash of divergent rooms –some tiny and with a fan, some huge andwith air-con – in different buildings, so lookat a few.181INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR SLEEPING SLEEPINGNYAUNGSHWE

182EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKE5EatingUnfortunately, Nyaugshwe’s culinary scenedoesn’t quite live up to its atmosphere. Mostrestaurants tend to reach far beyond their culinarycapabilities and there are relatively fewplaces to find authentic local food. The goodnews – if you’re a fan of quantity over quality,at least – is that serves tend to be rather largeand there’s an emphasis on Burmese- andShan-style set meals, most starting at K3500.For authentic local eats, check out thefood stalls (Map p 178 ; meals K1000; hbreakfast& lunch) in Mingala Market. Local specialitiesinclude Shan kauq-sweh (noodlesoup), maung jeut (round, flat rice crisps)and tofu thoke (Shan tofu salad), preparedusing yellow split-pea tofu, chilli, corianderand sesame oil.Every evening from Comet Travel & InternetCafe east to Mingala Market unfolds abasic night market (Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; h5-9pm) with dishes such as Shan noodles andtofu, grilled dishes, hot pot, roti and murtabak(stuffed pancake).oLin Htett MyanmarTraditional Food BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; meals from K4000; hlunch& dinner) Hands-down our favourite place toeat in Nyaungshwe, Lin Htett is as friendlyas it is delicious. If you haven’t yet encounteredauthentic Myanmar dining, here’s thedrill: choose a curry or two (refer to the picturesor, better yet, have a look behind thecounter) and perhaps a salad (the pennywortsalad, made from a fresh herb, is delicious).You’ll find the accompaniments (rice,a sour soup, a vegetable soup, vegies, a fishydip and three balachaung, chilli-based dips)will be supplied as a matter of course.Viewpoint Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, SHAN $$$(Map p 178 ; www.viewpoint.leplanteur.net; TaikNan Bridge; mains from K2000, set meals K8000-14,000; hlunch & dinner) Taking obscure localcuisines upscale is usually dangerous culinaryterritory, but the self-professed ‘Shannouvelle cuisine’ at this, Nyaungshwe’s mostambitious restaurant, is worth investigating.Although few of the menu items wouldever have existed on a typical Shan family’sdinner menu, the set meals and tastyShan tapas are satisfying, regardless of theirauthenticity.Lotus Restaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Map p 178 ; Museum Rd (Haw St); mains from K1000;hall day) With only five tables, this familyrunplace is as small as its menu is short. Ifeven this is too much choice for you, go forthe family-style dinner, which includes soup,salad, curry and a generous fruit plate foronly K3500. Your host, Pyone Cho, is also anexcellent trekking guide (see p 187 ).Golden Kite Restaurant ITALIAN $$(Map p 178 ; cnr Myawady Rd & Yone Gyi Rd; pizzasfrom K5000, pasta from K3500; hlunch & dinner)If you must seek Italian food in Nyaungshwe,you may as well do it here. This longstandingplace claims to have got its recipesvia an Italian lady from Bologna (you’ll mostlikely get the spiel) – she’s the source ofthe fresh basil. It makes its own pasta andserves decent pizzas.Thu Kha Coffee TEAHOUSE $(Map p 178 ; cnr Main Rd & Yone Gyi Rd; snacks fromK200; h5am-4pm) Ostensibly Nyaungshwe’sonly Muslim teashop, this tidy place servesgood tea and, in the mornings, tasty pakoda,deep-fried vegetable dumplings. Comelater in the afternoon for sweets such as roti,a type of sweet pancake.Inle Pancake Kingdom PANCAKES $(Map p 178 ; off Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; mains fromK800; hall day) Choose from a huge range offilled pancakes and toasted sandwiches atthis cute little cabin on a narrow alley northof the sports field. Follow the signs fromPhaung Daw Seiq Rd.Hu Pin Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; dishes from K1500) Close to the HuPin Hotel and run by the same team, thisbright canteen has an illustrated menu oftasty Chinese soups and fried favouritessuch as sweet and sour pork. It gets verybusy with tour groups at lunch time – comeearly or late for lunch or face a long wait.Green Chili Restaurant THAI, BURMESE $$(Map p 178 ; Hospital Rd; mains from K2000, setmeals K5000; hlunch & dinner) This new restaurantboasts one of the poshest diningrooms in town and, on the surface at least,the largely Thai-influenced menu here isalso one of the more diverse and interesting.Unfortunately the flavours tend towards thetimid tourist.The majority of places in Nyaungshwe havea Burmese/Shan/Chinese/Thai/Europeanmenu – you’ll recognise them from the billboardsout the front, which tout everythingfrom tofu to tagliatelle. If you’re not put off

y concepts such as Shan guacamole, the followingplaces, generally open from 9am to9pm, have been around for a while:Unique SuperbFood House INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Map p 178 ; 3 Myawady Rd; mains from K2000) Thissimple restaurant in a village house has amenu that includes just about everything,but the Western-style food here gets goodreports.Smiling MoonRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; mains from K1500) A laidbackterrace restaurant serving Inle regionaldishes, hill tribe food and the traveller holytrinity of Chinese, pasta and pancakes.Miss NyaungshweRestaurant INTERNATIONAL, BURMESE $(Map p 178 ; Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; mains fromK2000) Travellers gather at this cute bamboofrontedrestaurant for inexpensive Chineseand Bamar curries, plus pancakes, pastaand bottled beers.6 Drinking & EntertainmentDespite the backpacker vibe, there’s nobar scene in Nyaungshwe. The locals headto beer-based restaurants such as KaungKaung (Map p 178 ; Main Rd; hlunch & dinner),which has Myanmar and ABC beers on tap,while tourists head to Min Min’s (Map p 178 ;Yone Gyi Rd; hall day), where the beer costsmore but where the daring can order a caipirinha,Irish coffee or pina colada.Aung Puppet ShowPUPPET SHOW(Map p 178 ; Ahletaung Kyaung Rd; admission K3000;hshow times 7pm & 8.30pm) Down the roadopposite the Nandawunn Hotel, this placehas two nightly shows of traditional Burmesepuppetry.7 ShoppingOn any trip onto Inle Lake, you will be approachedby dozens of vendors in canoesselling crafts objects and curios, so thereisn’t any great need to buy souvenirs in Nyaungshwe.It is, though, worth going out ofyour way to visit any of one of the five-dayrotating market destinations (see the MarketingStrategy boxed text for details).8InformationAny guesthouse in town can arrange tours, boattrips, fl ights and bus tickets. Some hotels arewilling to change US dollars into kyat for guests;otherwise money can be changed at MingalaMarket.See p 183 for information on the permit fee.Comet Travel & Internet Café (Map p 178 ;%209 126; Yone Gyi Rd; h7am-11pm) Booksflights and buses and has a few internetterminals.Golden Island Cottages (Map p 178 ; GIC;%209 551; Phaung Daw Seiq Rd; h8am-6pm)Come here to arrange guides to Kakku andSankar.183INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR DRINKING DRINKING NYAUNGSHWE& ENTERTAINMENT& ENTERTAINMENTMARKETING STRATEGYA rustic market rotates among several cities and towns in the Inle Lake region. The mosttouted of these is the so-called floating market at Ywama, but this has become a victimof its own success, and the land-based options, where tribal people come down from thehills to trade livestock and produce, are much more interesting. The towns below Ywamahost the market once every five days; hotels and guesthouses can advise you where themarket will be heading next. Keep in mind that markets are not held on full moon days.» Heho, Thandaung – Thandaung’s market is small, but well off the beaten track.» Taunggyi, Floating Market (Ywama) – The ‘Floating Market’ at Ywama hasemerged to become the most touristy of the circuit – consider heading elsewhere.» Maing Thauk, Thaung Tho, Kyauk Taung – Maing Thauk is close to Nyaungshweand reachable by land or boat, but the Thaung Tho and Kyauk Taung markets, locatedat the far southern end of Inle Lake, are largely off the tourist circuit.» Shwenyaung, Kaung Daing, Kalaw, Inthein – Inthein, although now fully on thetourist circuit, is still worth a visit for its size and setting. Kalaw’s tidy market spills overto the streets on market day.» Nyaungshwe, Pindaya, Nampan – On market day, Nyaungshwe’s normally sleepymarket swells to several times its normal size. Tiny Pindaya’s central market also attractsvendors and buyers who come down from the surrounding hills.

184EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKEK.K.O. Internet (Map p 178 ; Yone Gyi Rd; perhr K1500; h7am-10.30pm) International emailaccounts can be accessed via proxy servers atthis small cafe.Lin Internet (Map p 178 ; Kann Nar Rd; per hrK1000; h7am-10pm) Close to the boat jetty,above the Mini Mart, with decent connections.8Getting There & AwayBy far the easiest way to reach the Inle Lake regionis to fl y. Most long-distance road transportstarts or fi nishes in Taunggyi – to reach Nyaungshwe,you’ll have to change at the junction townof Shwenyaung on the highway between Taunggyiand Heho.AirThe main airport for the Inle region is at Heho,25.5 miles northwest of Nyaungshwe on the wayto Kalaw – see p 174 for fl ight details. There are nooffi cial airline offi ces in Nyaungshwe, but hotelsand private travel agents can make bookings.Taxis waiting at the airport charge K25,000to Nyaungshwe (one hour); a cheaper but lessconvenient option is to hike the near mile to Hwy4 and wait for a pick-up truck or bus bound forTaunggyi (K2000, 1½ hours); ask to be let off atShwenyaung, from where you can change forNyaungshwe. You may face a long wait.Bus & Pick-up TrucksAny bus travelling from Mandalay (see p 221 ) orYangon (see p 70 ) to Taunggyi can drop you atShwenyaung for the full Taunggyi fare.To Yangon, overnight buses originating inTaunggyi reach Shwenyaung at 3pm (K14,000,16 to 20 hours). Similarly, the Mandalay-boundbus arrives at Shwenyaung at 6pm (K10,000,12 hours) and the bus to Nyaung U (Bagan) ataround 5am (K10,000, eight hours). Hotels andtravel agents in Nyaungshwe can book seats onthese buses but be sure to be at the junction inShwenyaung early so you don’t miss your bus.To reach Kalaw (K3000, four hours), Thazi(K5000, six hours) or Meiktila (K7000, sevenhours), you must fi rst take a pick-up or taxi toShwenyaung. Once you reach the Hwy 4 junction,you can fl ag down local buses and pick-upsheading west.From Nyaungshwe, pick-ups run to Shwenyaung(K500, 30 minutes) and Taunggyi (K1000, onehour) from 7am to 5pm. The pick-up stand (Mapp178 ; off Yone Gyi Rd) is west of the market butpick-ups also stop near the bridge north of MingalaMarket, although they’re often full by then.TaxiThe easiest way to fi nd a taxi in Nyaungshwe isto ask at your hotel or, failing that, call Ko KyawKyaw Oo (%209 367); charter taxi fares includeShwenyaung (K10,000), Heho (K15,000),Taunggyi (K25,000) and Kalaw (K40,000), andtaxis have room for three or four passengers.Motorcycle taxis at the stand (Map p 178 ; MainRd) near the market can transfer you to Shwenyaungfor K3000.TrainThe train rumbling through the hills from Shwenyaungto Thazi is slow but the scenery en routeis stunning. From Shwenyaung, the single dailydeparture leaves at 10am arriving in Kalaw afterthree hours ($3) and reaching Thazi at leastanother six hours later ($5).For train times from Thazi see p 167 .8Getting AroundDirt tracks run through the marshes in all directionsfrom Nyaungshwe – several shops on YoneGyi Rd and Phaung Daw Pyan Rd rent out clunkyChinese bicycles for K1000 per day.Motorcycle taxis at the stand (Map p 178 ; MainRd) near the market can take you to Kaung Dainghot springs for K5000 return.The Lake%081Almost every visitor to Nyaungshwe takes aboat trip on Inle Lake. But the lake is so largeand the villages so spread out that Inle neverfeels too crowded. The exception is when thetraditional five-day market rotation comes toYwama or Inthein; every tour boat and souvenirvendor in the Inle region heads straightfor the market and tourists jostle for spacewith tribal people trying to do their weeklyshopping.1SightsIntheinVILLAGEa='"tim'West of Ywama, a narrow, foliage-cloakedcanal winds through the reeds to the lakesidevillage of Inthein (Indein). As the channelleaves the reed beds, the jungle growsdenser and denser on either side, before thevillage appears suddenly among the vegetation.The Apocalypse Now ambience evaporatessomewhat when you see the waitingtourist boats and souvenir stalls, but nomatter – the pagodas on the hilltop are stillincredibly atmospheric despite the crowds.The first group of ruined stupas is immediatelybehind the village. Known as NyaungOhak, the crumbling stupas are choked ingreenery but you can still discern some ornatestucco carvings of animals, deva and chinthe.

From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairwayclimbs the hill, flanked by stalls selling lacquerware,puppets and other souvenirs –quality is high but so are the prices. At thetop is Shwe Inn Thein Paya, a complex of1054 weather-beaten zedi, most constructedin the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of thezedi lean at crazy angles while others havebeen reconstructed (courtesy of donationsfrom local Buddhists), which may ultimatelybe the fate of the whole complex. From thepagoda, there are great views across the lakeand valley. For even better views, there aretwo more ruined stupas on conical hillsjust north of the village, reached via a dirtpath behind Nyaung Ohak. You could easilyspend a few hours exploring the variousruins here.Part of the five-day inshore circuit, themarket (see p 183 ) at Inthein is one of thebiggest and liveliest in the area.Nga Hpe Kyaung(Jumping Cat Monastery) BUDDHIST TEMPLE=:"fy'ekY;='"(Map p 185 ) On the eastern side of the lake, theNga Hpe Kyaung is famous for its jumpingcats, trained to leap through hoops by themonks during the slow hours between scripturerecitals. The monks seem happy to puton a cat-jumping show for visiting touristsand the cats get treats for their efforts, sothey seem fairly happy too. But don’t expecta show when the monks are eating or meditating.A better reason to visit the pagoda isto see the collection of ancient buddha images.Constructed four years before MandalayPalace, the huge wooden meditation hallhas statues in the Shan, Tibetan, Bagan andInwa (Ava) styles displayed on ornate woodand mosaic pedestals.YwamaVILLAGErâCm(Map p 185 ) Ywama was the first village to bedeveloped for tourism and, as a result, it hasthe greatest number of souvenir shops andrestaurants. It’s still a very pretty village,with winding channels lined with tall teakhouses, but the charm can be diminishedby the crowds of tourist boats and paddlingsouvenir vendors.The main attraction at Ywama is the famousfloating market (see boxed text p 183 ),though this has also been a victim of itsown success. Held once every five days, themarket is a traffic jam of tourist boats and0 4 kmInle Lake 0 2 milesNantheSizonHot SpringsInle Lake ViewInle PrincessKaung DaingResortHu Pin HotelTrekking Inle Khaung InleRoute Daing Village ResortKanywa Resort Maing ThaukInleh Bo TehInle Sky Lake,Lake ParadiseNga Hpe Kyaung Inle Resort(Jumping CatForestMonastery) MonasteryThale UThandaungTrailWalkingYan AungNan AungHsu TaungPyi PagodaNyaungshweFloatingGardensGolden IslandCottages Thale UYwama ZayatkyiNyaungTha Lay IngyingonOhak Phaung Inn Thar LayDaw OoAlodaw PaukInthein PayaShwe Inn ShwePagodaNampanThein PayaInnTha Golden IslandTo Kalaw In Phaw Cottages Nampan(37mi) Khone Naung TawTo Thaung Tho (1mi);Kyauk Taung (1.2mi); Thaung ThoKyaing Kan (1.2mi); KyaungSankar (10mi)Chaing Khamsouvenir hawkers, with a few local farmerspeddling vegetables in among the crowds.Phaung Daw Oo PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEefC='etC'W".urC"(Map p 185 ; camera/video fee K200/300) A widechannel leads south from Ywama to the villageof Tha Ley and Phaung Daw Oo Paya,the holiest religious site in southern ShanState. Enshrined within the huge tiered pagodaare five ancient buddha images thathave been transformed into amorphousblobs by the sheer volume of gold leaf appliedby devotees. During the annualPhaung Daw Oo festival (p 194 ), the imagesare paraded around the lake in an ornatebarge shaped like a hintha. Local familiesoften bring their children here as part of theordination rites for the sangha (Buddhistbrotherhood) – a fascinating spectacle if youhappen to be there at the right time.185INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR SIGHTS SIGHTS THE LAKE

186EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKELAKEFRONT VIEWCutting through the morning mist onInle Lake is one of Myanmar’s must-doexperiences. Be sure to bring a coat orsweater (it can get cold out there), andin addition to the usual sights, be sureto hit the five-day market (p 183 ).NampanVILLAGEnm'¾pn'South of Ywama, the peaceful village ofNampan is built on stilts over the water. It’soff the main tourist circuit, but the AlodawPauk Pagoda (Map p 185 ) is one of the oldestshrines on the lake. Built on stilts over thewater, the whitewashed stupa enshrines afabulous gem-encrusted, Shan-style buddha.Nampan has several small cheroot factoriesand there are some good restaurants onthe edge of the village.Floating GardensGARDENSkâÆn'"emY;(Map p 185 ) North of Nampan are these famousgardens, where Intha farmers growflowers, tomatoes, squash and other fruitand vegetables on long wooden trellises supportedon floating mats of vegetation. In themorning and afternoon, farmers paddle upand down between the rows tending theircrops. It’s a bucolic scene made all the morephotogenic by the watery setting.In Phaw KhoneVILLAGEa='"ep:xu®(Map p 185 ) This tidy village of teak stilt housesis famous for its weaving workshops. Buildingsacross the village vibrate with the clatterof shuttles and the click-clack of shifting loomframes. The workshops are a popular stopon the tourist circuit, and it’s fascinating tosee the skill of the weavers as they produceornate, multicoloured fabrics on looms madefrom bamboo poles lashed together with rope.Maing ThaukVILLAGEmiu='"esCk'(Map p 185 ) On the eastern side of the lake, thevillage of Maing Thauk has a split personality –half the village is set on dry land, while theother half sits on stilts over the water, linkedto the shore by a 450yd wooden bridge.Inland from the village’s main road, a fewcrumbling gravestones near the orphanagemark the location of the colonial-era FortSteadman.You can continue walking uphill to apeaceful forest monastery (Map p 185 ) forgood views over the lake. Maing Thauk is accessibleby boat and by road – you can cycleto Maing Thauk in an hour or so along a dirttrack leading southeast from Nyaungshwe.Southern End of the LakeAt the southern end of the lake, the villageof Thaung Tho (off Map p 185 ) holds an importanttribal market every five days. Thismarket sees far fewer visitors than the oneat Inthein. A long walkway leads uphill fromtown to a complex of whitewashed Shanstupas. There are more interesting stopsin this part of the lake; the village of KyaukTaung (off Map p 185 ) is devoted to potterymakingand is also part of the market circuit,while nearby Kyaing Kan (off Map p 185 ) specialisesin weaving robes using lotus threads.A long canal at the bottom of Inle Lakewinds south through peaceful countrysideto a second lake ringed by Shan, Intha andPa-O villages. It takes around three hoursfrom Shwenyuang to reach the largest village,Sankar (Samka; off Map p 185 ), once the seat of aShan hereditary prince. On the opposite sideof the lake is Tharkong Pagoda, a collectionof crumbling zedi and stucco sculptures thatdate back at least 500 years. The main attractionhere is the almost total absence of othertourists – visits to this area have only beenpermitted since 2003 and foreigners must stillbe accompanied by a Pa-O guide. Guided boattrips to Sankar should be arranged throughGolden Island Cottages (p 183 ); guides cost$10 and there’s a permit fee of $5.2 ActivitiesMotorboat TripsIt is de rigueur to take at least one boattrip on the lake during a visit to Inle. Everymorning, a flotilla of slender wooden canoesfitted with long-tailed outboard motorssurges out into the lake, transporting visitorsto various natural, cultural, religious,historical or commercial sites.The lake itself is rich in wildlife, especiallywaterfowl. The area around the lake has beenprotected as the Inle Wetland Bird Sanctuary,an official bird sanctuary, since 1985 andyou’ll see herons, warblers, cormorants, wildducks and egrets as you zip along the channelsbetween the villages. But you won’t hearthem – or the comments of fellow passengersfor that matter – over the thunder of the

oat’s motor. Bring ear plugs or sit right atthe front, away from the thundering pistons.Every hotel and guesthouse in Nyaungshwecan arrange motorboat trips or you canmake your own arrangements directly withthe boat drivers at one of the piers – althoughthey’ll most likely find you before you canfind them. Prices for day-long boat trips startat K12,000, which typically includes visits tothe famous sights in the northern part of thelake such as Phaung Daw Oo Paya in ThaLey, the Nga Hpe Kyaung in Nga Phe villageand the floating gardens. A trip to Intheinwill raise the cost to about K15,000, whilevisits to destinations further south such asThaung Tho or Kyauk Taung can run as highas K25,000. The fee covers the entire boat;drivers will carry five or more passengers ina single boatload and passengers get paddedseats and life jackets.TrekkingInle Lake is the end point for several trekkingroutes from Kalaw. Trails run westfrom Kalaw through the villages of theShan, Intha, Pa- O, Danu, Palaung and Danawtribes, ending at villages on the westernlake shore. These treks can be walked ineither direction, though most people walkfrom Kalaw to Inle, as the final stages aremainly downhill.The most popular start/end point fortreks is Kaung Daing, but begging has becomea problem on this route because oftour groups handing out sweets and moneyto children. More interesting places to startor end the walk to Kalaw include Intheinand Thandaung.FLOATING OVER INLE LAKEAs beautiful as they are from theground, the views across Inle Lake areeven more stunning from the air. Ifyou can gather up a minimum of fourpassengers, who are each preparedto stump up $5000, then the folks atEastern Safaris (www.easternsafaris.com) can arrange a four-day, threenighthot-air balloon safari over the lakeand surrounding hills. They’re the samereliable and professional folks who runthe balloon rides over Bagan (see p 113 ).A six-day, five-night safari that alsoincludes Bagan is also available and isusually scheduled for December, thebest month for hot-air ballooning.There are also some interesting day hikesand overnight treks north and south of Nyaungshwe,passing through rice paddies dottedwith Shan stupa ruins. Trails into the hillseast of town lead to Pa-O villages with panoramicviews over the lake. Guides can talkyou through the various treks and itineraries.Day hikes cost around $10 a day, whichincludes a basic lunch of rice and curry(carry your own bottled or purified water).Overnight treks around Nyaungshwe are$25, while the two or three-day trek to Kalawcosts $30 per person in groups of three.Recommended guides in Nyaungshwe includePyone Cho at Lotus Restaurant (Mapp 178 ; pyonechlotus@gmail.com; Museum Rd (HawSt), Nyaungshwe) and the brothers Than Htayand Ko Htwe at Sunny Day Tour Services(Map p 178 ; htwe.sunny@yahoo.com; cnr Main Rd &Yone Gyi Rd, Nyaungshwe).SwimmingThe lake waters are very clear so a dip looksinviting, but the channels around the villagesare shallow and full of weeds. The bestplace for a swim is out on the main bodyof the lake, though you need to be waryof speeding riverboats. One safe spot for aswim is the disused teak mansion known asInleh Bo The (Map p 185 ), near the mouth ofthe channel leading to Nyaungshwe.4SleepingAlthough many travellers choose to stay inNyaungshwe, there are also a number of upmarketresorts built on stilts over the lake,where the sensation of sleeping over thewater is very atmospheric. All of the resortshave their own boats and drivers but, as theresorts are quite isolated, most people eatwhere they stay.Reservations are recommended in thehigh season, and discounts are often availablefor advance bookings. All rates includebreakfast. All of the hotels arrange pick-upsand return boat trips to/from Nyaungshwefor K8000.The majority of accommodation on InleLake is around Maing Thauk; prices growprogressively higher the further north yougo. None of the following hotels appear tohave government links, but Pristine Lotusand Myanmar Treasure Resort do.oGolden Island Cottages HOTEL $$$Nampan (GIC; Map p 185 ; %209 390, in Yangon 01-549 019; www.gicmyanmar.com; r $50-70; i) ThaleU (GIC; Map p 185 ; %209 389, in Yangon 01-549187INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR SLEEPING SLEEPINGTHE LAKE

188EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKE019; www.gicmyanmar.com; r $50-70; i) Ownedby a cooperative of Pa-O tribal people, theGolden Island Cottages resorts provide someof the best accommodation on the lake. TheNampan resort has a great location overopen water while the Thale U resort is closerto shore. Both resorts offer attractive, raisedcottages linked by wooden walkways, arrangedaround a central restaurant servinggood Chinese, Pa-O and Shan dishes. Theowners can arrange treks and boat trips toKakku and Sankar – they have an office inNyaungshwe on Phaung Daw Seiq Rd.Inle Princess Resort BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 055; www.inleprincessresort.com; bungalows $160-250; ai) The Inle Princessis honeymoon material. The stylishwooden cottages would not look out of placein an Asian design magazine, with handmadefurniture, luxurious fabrics, pottedplants and ethnic artefacts on the walls. Themore expensive bungalows have plant-filledsun decks facing the lake.Hu Pin Hotel Inle KhaungDaing Village Resort HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 291; www.hupinhotelmyanmar.com; Kaung Daing; r/cottage/ste $50-70/70-80/150)Owned by the same people as the Hu Pin Hotelin Nyaungshwe, this vast compound of 86rooms and bungalows sits on dry land facingthe lake. The wooden bungalows are comfortableand well cared for and feature greatviews over the lake.Shwe Inn Tha HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209445; www.myanmar-inleshweinntha-floatinghotel.com; Nam Pan; bungalow/ste $80/150;ais) Open since 1996, this is the upscaleversion of the nearby Golden Island CottagesNampan. Accommodation here takes theform of deluxe bungalows or suites elevatedover water. Rooms are fully equipped and thisis the only resort on Inle Lake with its ownpool.Inle Lake View HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 332; www.inlelakeview.com; KaungDaing; r $120-130, ste $155-165, villa $220; i) Locatedon dry land at Kaung Daing, the roomshere are spread over several buildings a shortwalk from the shores of Inle Lake. There areonly two free-standing villas, but all roomsare spacious and tastefully furnished.Inle Resort BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 361; www.inleresort.com; MaingThauk; cottages $75-120; ai) Opened in 2005,this handsome resort is centred on a palatialwooden restaurant and lobby. The stylishcottages feature huge picture windows andprivate sun decks facing the lake.Sky Lake HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 128; www.inleskylake.com; MaingThauk; bungalows $50-60) Sky Lake has the typicalsetup of a water-bound Inle Lake resortbut with a slightly more aged feel than itsdirect neighbour, Paradise Inle Resort.Paradise Inle Resort HOTEL $$$(Map p 185 ; %209 586; Maing Thauk; bungalows$60-100; i) Next door to Sky Lake, this newerfloating resort is similar to its neighbour,but feels comparatively overpriced.5EatingAs well as the resorts, there are numerousfloating restaurants in stilt houses on thelake that offer good Chinese and Shan food,cold beers and English-language menus.The greatest concentration of restaurantsis in Ywama, but there are also some goodchoices around Nampan.Inn Thar Lay CHINESE, BURMESE $$(Map p 185 ; %209 451; Tha Ley; mains K5000-6000;hall day) This restaurant, with two branchesnear Phaung Daw Oo Paya, gets good reviewsand has its own vegetable garden.Around Inle LakeTAUNGGYIetC='äkI"%081 / POP C150,000Although travellers make a beeline for Nyaungshwe,Taunggyi is the administrativecapital for the whole of Shan State. Perchedon top of a mountain, it’s a busy trading postand the town markets are piled high withChinese and Thai goods, freighted in dailyvia the border crossings at Mong La andTachileik. Unless you’ve spent too much timein rural Shan State and are pining for the bigcity and/or consumer goods, there’s reallylittle of interest here for the average visitor.1SightsShan State Cultural Museum& LibraryMUSEUMrHm'"¨p–'ny'yw'ekY"múu¨ptiuk' NH=¾'cCäk–¾'tiuk''(Bogyoke Aung San Rd; admission $2; h9.30am-4pm Tue-Sun) With such a strong emphasis ontribal costumes, we reckon this place could

also be called the Shan Fashion Museum.Among the outfits you’ll also find a handfulof displays of weapons, musical instrumentsand jewellery.MARKETSThe focal point of Taunggyi is the marketarea on the main road through town. TheOld Market is dominated by foodstuffs andhousehold goods while the New Market hasclothes and black-market goods. Every fivedays the old market ground hosts a busytribal market that attracts lots of tradersfrom the hills.RELIGIOUS MONUMENTSThe main downtown pagoda is the Mya LeDhamma Yon (Bogyoke Aung San Rd) near themarket and nearby is the huge Gurdwara(Sikh temple) used by Taunggyi’s Sikh population.Taunggyi has a number of historicchurches and there are several Burmesestylemosques on the alleyways southwestof the market.Set among the pines above Circular RdWest, the Yat Taw Mu Pagoda contains a33ft-high standing buddha, constructedusing donations from Japanese Buddhists.Just north of Hotel Empire, Min Kyaungfeatures gaudy statuary and a pagoda styledafter the Mahabodhi temple at Bodhgaya inIndia.On the outskirts south of town, the hugewhite Sulamuni Paya has a gilded corncobstupa that pays tribute to the AnandaPahto in Bagan. You can continue uphill tothe ridge-top paya of Shwe Phone PwintPaya for dizzying views over Taunggyi andInle Lake.zFestivals & EventsAs part of the full-moon celebrations duringTazaungmon (the eighth month of the Burmeselunar calendar), the city holds a hugefire-balloon festival, when hundreds of hotairballoons in a kaleidoscope of colours andshapes are released into the sky to carry awaysins. The three-day festival takes place in Octoberor November and accommodation canbe very hard to find in Taunggyi at this time.4SleepingHotels in Taunggyi cater primarily to visitingtraders, so there are few bargains to be had.KBZ FC Hotel HOTEL $$(%22009; 157 Khwar Nyo St; s/d/ste $30/35/45;a) A recent renovation has changed the exteriorand name of the former Paradise Hotel.The current emphasis appears to be on TVs:THE INTHA OF INLE LAKEAlthough they follow Buddhism andwear modern Burmese costume, theIntha people of Inle Lake are culturallyquite distinct from their Shanneighbours. The ancestors of the Inthaare thought to have migrated to Inlefrom Dawei in southern Myanmar.According to the most popular legend,two brothers from Dawei came toYaunghwe (the original name for Nyaungshwe)in 1359 to serve the localShan sao pha (sky lord). The chieftainwas so pleased with the hard-workingDawei brothers that he invited 36more families from Dawei; purportedly,all the Intha around Inle Lake are descendedfrom these migrant families.A more likely theory is that the Inthafled southern Myanmar in the 18thcentury to escape wars between theThais and Bamar.the lobby boasts what is quite possibly thelargest one we’ve ever seen, and each of thegigantic suites is fitted with two flat-screenTVs! Unfortunately the standard rooms havechanged little and have the same aged furniture(and TVs) as its predecessor.Hotel Empire HOTEL $$(%23737; 31 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d $20/26)Another substantial Chinese business-stylehotel, the Empire has modern rooms withTVs, and bathrooms with reliably hot showers.Staff here are more used to dealing withforeign visitors than at the other hotels intown.Khemerat Hotel HOTEL $(%22464; 4/B Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d $12/18)The closest Taunggyi has to budget accommodation,this faded block at the north endof town has large concrete rooms with rudimentaryfurnishings.Eastern Hotel HOTEL $$(%22243; 27 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; r $15-36; a)Exceedingly tidy, with vast wood-flooredsuites and rather tight standard rooms.Sun Minn Hotel HOTEL $$(%22353; 137 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; r $15-35; a)Cosy feel and a variety of rooms; ask to seea few. The more expensive ones have woodfloors and flat-screen TVs.189INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR EATING EATING AROUND INLE LAKE

190Taunggyi Hotel HOTEL $$(%21127; Shu Myaw Khin Rd; s/d $30/36) Thehotel’s park-like atmosphere is the highlighthere, but it’s such a hike from town that, unlessyou came with your own transportation,it’s difficult to recommend.5EatingThe street just south of the New Market hasa number of inexpensive food stalls (mealsfrom K1000; h6.30am-5pm). At night this stripalso functions as Taunggyi’s night market(h6-10pm) serving shan kauq-sweh (Shannoodle soup) and other local staples.EASTERN MYANMAR INLE LAKE110ÿ#Khwar Nyo St11ÿ# ÿ # 8# ú 142Ú#ChineseCommunityHall # ú 15Na Ga Bat Ú##Monastery18Ú#9 ÿ##›2420 ›#16#ú22#›2125#›˜## ›#Golden 23Island4 # æCottages# æ 5ì## ú 13# ñ Ú#3# ß# æ 16# 1912 ÿ## ðBogyoke# ß Park# ú 17#ò234Circular RdWestNagar PwatKyaung St6666666 656Ú#7Merchant StBanyint Naung StTaungKyaungStCircularRd WestBogyoke Aung San Rd (Main Rd)Kyant Kine Yae RdAnawratha StTha#e 0 0.1 milesB ‚To MyanmarVineyard (3mi);Heho (22mi)1Taunggyi0 200 mAPyay StChin Thae StGanaingKan St# Ü# â 6To Sulamuni Paya # Ü(150m); Shwe Phone Pwint Paya (1mi)A‚B23456Shan Restaurant SHAN $(off Bogyoke Aung San Rd; mains from K500;hbreakfast & lunch) This open-air place servesyummy Shan treats such as khao som (sourrice with a garlic oil topping) and kauqswehkai (Shan-style chicken noodle soup).There’s no English-language sign here;Taunggyiæ Sights1 Gurdwara .............................................B42 Min Kyaung .........................................A23 Mya Le Dhamma Yon ..........................B44 New Market..........................................A35 Old Market............................................B36 Shan State Cultural Museum &Library ...............................................B67 Yat Taw Mu Pagoda ............................A6ÿ Sleeping8 Eastern Hotel ....................................... B19 Hotel Empire ........................................A210 KBZ FC Hotel ....................................... A111 Khemerat Hotel ................................... B112 Sun Minn Hotel ...................................B5ú EatingFood Stalls ....................................(see 5)13 Lyan You...............................................B4Night Market ................................ (see 4)14 Saung Oo.............................................. B115 Sein Restaurant ..................................B216 Shan Restaurant..................................A317 Shwe Min Thu Café..............................B5ï Information18 Shan Pyi Thar.......................................B2ï TransportAir Bagan..................................... (see 17)19 Air Mandalay ........................................B4Bus Company Office for Bagan (see 20)20 BusCompanyOfficesforYangon & Mandalay..........................A321 Minivans to Heho & Kalaw ..................A322 Pick-ups To Nyaungshwe ...................A323 Pick-ups To Thazi & Meiktila ..............A324 Pick-ups To Thazi & Meiktila ..............A325 Taxi Stand ............................................A3

look for the narrow alley with the rainbowcolouredumbrellas halfway down the blocksouth of the Hotel Empire.Lyan You CHINESE, BURMESE $(Bogyoke Aung San Rd; meals from K3000; hlunch& dinner) Lyan You has Skol and Dagon beeron tap and above-average Chinese food – werecommend the special assorted noodlesand short ribs in soy sauce.Shwe Min Thu Café TEAHOUSE $(Gold Mine; Bogyoke Aung San Rd; snacks fromK400; hbreakfast & lunch) Near the post office,this humble teahouse has posters of Londonon the walls and hot tea, coffee and cakes towarm your belly on cold mornings.Saung Oo SHAN $(Chin Thae St; noodles from K500; hbreakfast &lunch) North of the centre on a lane off themain drag, this popular noodle house serveshearty bowls of Shan-style noodle soup.Sein Restaurant BURMESE $(Bogyoke Aung San Rd; meals from K2000; hlunch& dinner) Locals crowd into this busy restaurantat the north end of town for tastyChinese food and Myanmar set-meals withall the trimmings. The fried snakehead fishgoes down a treat.8 InformationThere is no tourist offi ce, but hotels can adviseon tours and transport. Also see www.lonelyplanet.com/myanmar-burma for further informationon travelling in Myanmar.Public Internet Access Centre (Bogyoke AungSan Rd; per hr K500; h8.30am-9pm) Fastaccess; near Bogyoke Park. There are severalother internet cafes along Bogyoke Aung SanRd, most open from 10am to 10pm and chargingK300 per hour.Shan Pyi Thar (%24549; 8 Bogyoke Aung SanRd; h9am-6pm) There’s no English-languagesign, but this ticket agency is located roughlyacross from Hotel Empire. It’s the place to buyairline tickets as well as change money.8 Getting There & AwayAirThe airport at Heho, about 22 miles west ofTaunggyi, has regular fl ights to Yangon, Mandalay,Nyaung U (Bagan) and other cities – see p 174 .A taxi from Heho to Taunggyi costs K25,000; acheaper but less convenient option is to hike thenear mile to the Hwy and wait for a pick-up truckor bus to Taunggyi (K2000, 1½ hours).Air Mandalay (%21330; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri& 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) has an offi ce on BogyokeTHE BORDEAUX OF BURMA?Myanmar probably isn’t the first placethat comes to mind when you thinkof fine wine, but all that may be set tochange with the increasingly robustvintages coming out of two Shan statewineries. Myanmar Vineyard (%inYangon 664 386; www.myanmar-vineyard.com), located at Aythaya, 3 miles westof Taunggyi, was founded 1999 by Germanentrepreneur, Bert Morsbach. Thevineyard sits at an elevation of 4290fton well-watered, limestone-rich soils,providing good growing conditions forShiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, SauvignonBlanc, Chenin Blanc and Moscatograpes. Red Mountain Estate (%209366; www.redmountain-estate.com)located in a valley just outside Nyaungshwe,grow similar varietals, as well asPinot Noir.Both vineyards are open daily fortours and tastings – see the websitesfor details. You can reach MyanmarVineyard by taxi, or on any pick-uptravelling between Taunggyi and Shwenyaung;Red Mountain is within cyclingdistance of Nyaungshwe.Aung San Rd, as does Air Bagan (%24737;h8am-5pm Mon-Fri & 9am-1pm Sat & Sun),which is owned by Tay Za (see p 21 ).BusBuses leave Taunggyi from several standsaround town. The offices of companies runninglong-haul bus and van services to Yangon(K10,000; 2pm; 16 hours) and Mandalay(K6000; 5pm; 12 hours) are found along thewest side of Bogyoke Aung San Rd, just south ofHotel Empire. The office for buses to Nyaung U(Bagan; K11,000; 4am; 10 hours) can be boughtaround the corner, on Nagar Pwat Kyaung St.Share taxis to Mandalay (K25,000 per person, 8to 10 hours) can also be arranged here.Buses to Kalaw (K2500; 1pm, 2pm & 3pm; 3hours) and Pindaya (K2000; 1pm & 1.30pm; 4hours) leave from the Maw Cherry bus stand(Circular Rd West), about a mile north of thetown centre. Any of these buses can drop you inShwenyaung or Heho. To get to the Maw Cherrybus stand, charter a taxi at the market in or frontof Hotel Empire for around K1500.For buses from Yangon, see p 70 .191INLE EASTERN LAKE MYANMAR EATING EATING AROUND INLE LAKE

192EASTERN MYANMAR KENGTUNG & BORDER AREASPick-Up Truck, Minivan & TaxiPICK-UP TRUCKS leave regularly from a standeast of the New Market to Nyaungshwe (K700,one hour) between 6am and 4pm. Pick-upsto Thazi (K3000, seven hours) and Meiktila(K3000, eight hours) leave from a stand oneblock west of the New Market and from anotherstand on Circular Rd West, near the Na Ga BatMonastery, during the day time.MINIVANS to Heho (K2000, one hour) andKalaw (K3000, fi ve hours) leave from a bus stopjust northwest of the New Market.TAXIS loiter in front of the Hotel Empire or ata stand near the new market, offering charterrides to Nyaungshwe (K20,000) and Heho airport(K25,000).KAKKUkkûBArranged in neat rows sprawling over thehillside, the 2478 stupas at Kakku are oneof the most remarkable sights in Shan State.According to local legend, the stupa gardenwas founded by the Buddhist missionariesof the Indian emperor Ashoka in the 3rdcentury BC. The stupas at Kakku were builtin a bewildering variety of styles, markingthe prevailing architectural styles when theywere constructed. Some are simple and unadornedwhile others are covered in a riot ofstucco deities and mythical beasts. Amongthe tall Shan-style stupas are a number ofsmall square ‘monastery style’ stupas thatare unique to this region.Like ancient sites across the country, Kakkuis slowly being restored and modernisedusing donations from pilgrims – the stupagarden still has a palpable sense of antiquitybut don’t expect an Indiana Jones-styleruin in the jungle. The annual Kakku PayaPwe, held on the full-moon day of the lunarmonth of Tabaung (March), attracts Pa-Opilgrims from across Shan State.Kakku is surrounded by Pa-O villages andthe site can be visited only with a Pa-O guide,arranged through Golden Island Cottages(%in Taunggyi 081-23136; 18 Circular Rd East, Taunggyi;h6am-5pm). There’s a $3 entry fee for thesite and a $5 fee for the guide and you mustalso arrange a taxi to the site – K30,000 fromTaunggyi, including a few hours waiting atthe stupas.So far there isn’t any accommodation atKakku, but you can get a good meal at theHlaing Konn Restaurant (hlunch & dinner)overlooking the site.KENGTUNG & BORDERAREASBeyond Taunggyi, the landscape rucks upinto great folds, cloaked in dense forest andcut by rushing mountain rivers. This is theheartland of the Golden Triangle, where insurgentarmies battled for most of the lastcentury to gain control of the opium tradebetween Myanmar, China, Laos and Thailand.Ceasefires with the main rebel groupshave allowed the region to finally move outof the shadow of civil war but drug traffickingand other illegal activities are commonTHE PADAUNGOriginally from Kayah state on the Thai border south of Inle Lake, the Padaung tribe –Myanmar’s famous ‘giraffe women’ – have become a victim of their own traditions. Theancient custom of fitting young girls with brass neck-rings has made the Padaung a majortourist attraction – and a major target for exploitation on both sides of the border.Originally intended to make Padaung women less attractive to raiding parties fromneighbouring tribes, the application of heavy brass neck-rings causes deformation of thecollar bone and upper ribs, pushing the shoulders away from the head. Many Padaungwomen reach a stage where they are unable to carry the weight of their own heads withoutthe rings as additional support.These days, the rings are applied with a different purpose – to provide women fromimpoverished hill villages with the means to make a living posing for photographs. ManyPadaung women are ferried across the border to Thailand to provide a photo opportunityfor visiting tour groups. The UN has compared the treatment of Padaung women to thetreatment of animals in a zoo.Some souvenir shops on Inle Lake employ Padaung women to lure passing tourist boats.If you want to help the Padaung, purchase handloom fabrics and other Padaung crafts ratherthan take pictures of ‘long-necked women’.

and travel to the border areas is still subjectto government restrictions.Kengtung (Kyaingtong)kYŸi='"tu®%084 / POP C20,000The second-biggest city in Shan State, Kengtung(Kyaingtong), pronounced ‘ChengDong’, is the capital of the Golden Triangleregion and one of the most attractive townsin Myanmar. In culture and appearance,it feels closer to the hill towns of northernThailand and southern China, and the vastmajority of the town’s residents belong toone of several Tai ethnic groups: Shan, TaiLü, Tai Khün and Tai Nuea.For years, Kengtung was caught in thecrossfire between rival drug lords, but peacehas returned to the quiet, pagoda-linedstreets. The rugged terrain of eastern ShanState contributes to the sense of isolation –Kengtung is an outpost of development in asea of largely deforested mountains, whereWa, Eng, Shan, Akha and Lahu tribal peoplefollow a way of life that has changed little incenturies. Needless to say, treks to hill-tribevillages are a major attraction.1Sights & ActivitiesThe Central Market draws people from allover the Kengtung district, including tribalpeople from the hills. The market has lots ofstalls selling food and household items, includingthe coins, buttons, beads and threadsused to decorate tribal costumes. Twice aweek, there’s a water-buffalo market on theroad leading to Taunggyi. You probably won’tbe able to fit a buffalo into your backpack butit’s interesting to watch the traders hagglingfor the best price on a used beast of burden.The old British enclave in Kengtung wascentred on the small Naung Tung lake, apopular spot for morning and evening strolls.There are several decaying colonial buildingsabove the lake shore, including the handsomeColony House (Mine Yen Rd). On theroad leading towards Taunggyi, the RomanCatholic Mission and Immaculate HeartCathedral have been providing an educationfor hill-tribe orphans since colonial times.Monasteries & TemplesIf there were many more Buddhist monasteriesin Kengtung, people would have nowhereleft to live. The town’s many monasteries arecalled wat rather than kyaung, and localmonks wear both orange and red robes, reflectingthe close cultural links to Thailand.The gilded stupa of Wat Jong Kham(Zom Kham) rises majestically above thecentre of town. Legend dates the wat to avisit by Gautama Buddha but a more likelydate for the stupa is the 13th-century migrationfrom Chiang Mai. In the middle of thetraffic roundabout below Wat Jong Kham,Wat Mahamuni (Maha Myat Muni) is a classicThai-style wat with a richly painted interior.Just north of Airport Rd, Wat In containsa stunning collection of ancient gildedwooden buddha images in all shapes, sizesand positions. Chinese residents of Kengtungworship at the appealing Chinese Buddhisttemple near the immigration office.Pointing dramatically towards the mountainson a ridge overlooking Naung Tunglake, the 60ft-high standing buddha statueknown as Ya Taw Mu is probably the mostdistinctive landmark in Kengtung. Nextto the statue is a small Cultural Museum(h10am-4pm Tue-Sat; admission $2) with costumes,farming implements and other tribalobjects, some inexplicably painted silver.Potentially interesting, but when we visitedno-one knew where the key was.You can see the dome-shaped stone Mausoleumsof the Tai Khün Princes on theeast end of Mine Yen Rd.Day Trips Around KengtungThe hills of eastern Shan State are dottedwith the villages of the Eng, Lahu Akha,Palaung, Loi, Lishaw, Shan and Wa tribes,many of which can be visited on guidedtreks from Kengtung.At research time, overnight trips werenot allowed, and you will need to obtain advancepermission from Kengtung’s immigrationoffice to visit any of the below.The most popular destination is Pin Tau,only 9 miles north of town, where it’s possibleto visit the villages of several tribes ina single day.Ho Kyim, approximately 10 miles southof Kengtung, is home to several Loi andAkha and Lahu villages. And Wan Nyekand Wan Saen, near the Chinese border atMong La (miu='"lC"), are two villages wherethe Loi people still live in traditional longhouses.Loi-mwe (lây'emâ), 20 miles southeast ofKengtung, functioned as a second-tier hillstation in the British era and you can stillsee a number of fading colonial buildingsand a 100-year-old Catholic church.193KENGTUNG EASTERN MYANMAR & BORDER SIGHTS KENGTUNG AREAS & SIGHTS ACTIVITIES(KYAINGTONG)& ACTIVITIES

194e#Kengtung (Kyaingtong)ATo Harry's TrekkingHouse (1.5mi); PinTau (9mi)‚BC8 Ú##e0 400 m0 0.25 milesDEASTERN MYANMAR KENGTUNG & BORDER AREAS124 Ü#Kan RdÚ#9Naung YarngLakeNaungTungTo Bus Station (500m);Water BuffaloMarket (800m)34‚Pha Yang RdMai YangRd11 ÿ#3 # æKyainge ÿ#Tong NewHotelTachileik-Taunggyi Rd (Main Rd)AMine Yen RdÚ#6Wat JongÚ#Kham (ZomKham)Ú#719#Zay Tan GyiSt520 # ú#15#ä22 #ú#16# ñ# ðKyainNyanRd24 #›10ÿ#ÿ#14# æ 1 #›23B‚Zeigyi RdKyange Rd18 #þ2 Ú#Zaydankalay RdYang KonRd#Hospital# îÿ#12C21Tachileik RdTo Ho Kyim(10mi)‚Airport RdLoi Mwe RdD‚117 To Private13 ú#Hotel (500m);ÿ#Pann Gabar(1mi); Airport(2mi); Wan Nyek & WanSaen (53mi)234The main attraction, though, is the drive uphere through a classically Asian landscape ofdense forests and terraced rice fields.Guide fees start at $15 per day, not includinglunch. Keep in mind that you willalso have to factor in the cost of getting tothe trailheads by taxi – a further K36,000to K65,000, depending on how far afieldyou go. Transportation can be arranged atHarry’s Trekking House and Princess Hotel.Recommended guides include Sai Leng(%09-490 31470; sairoctor.htunleng@gmail.com),Freddie (Yot Kham; %09-490 31934; yotkham@gmail.com) and Paul (Sai Lon; %09-490 30464,22812).If you don’t have the time or funds for atrek, a good self-guided walk can be hadalong the former road to Mong La, now colloquiallyknown as Yang Kon Rd. The areais home to several Shan families who earna living by making pottery and khao sen(fermented rice noodles), the latter madeby a laborious process of boiling, poundingand squeezing. Your walk terminates atWat Yang Kon, known among locals for thedecorative robes covering the main buddhastatue.zFestivals & EventsKengtung’s Chinese community celebratethe Chinese New Year in early Februarywith the usual firecracker-charged festivities.For Buddhists, the big calendar event isthe Water Festival in April, when everyonegets a dousing, including visitors.4SleepingThe accommodation scene in Kengtungwill inspire few postcards home. As is thecase elsewhere in Myanmar, breakfast is includedin the fee and electricity is scarce;most hotels run generators from about 7pmto 10pm.

Kengtung (Kyaingtong)æ Top SightsWat Jong Kham (Zom Kham).............B2æ Sights1 Central Market.....................................B32 Chinese Buddhist Temple...................C23 Colony House.......................................B2Cultural Museum ......................... (see 9)4 Immaculate Heart Cathedral..............A35 Mausoleums of the Tai KhünPrinces...............................................C3Roman Catholic Mission ............. (see 4)6 Wat In ...................................................C27 Wat Mahamuni (Maha MyatMuni)..................................................B28 Wat Yang Kon ...................................... C19 Ya Taw Mu (Buddha Statue) ..............A3ÿ Sleeping10 Law Yee Chain Hotel ...........................B311 Noi Yee Hotel .......................................B212 Princess Hotel......................................C313 Saeng Tip Hotel ................................... D114 Sam Yweat Guest House ....................C3ú Eating15 Golden Banyan Restaurant.................C316 Lod Htin Lu Restaurant.......................C317 Seik Tie Kya Restaurant...................... D1þ Shopping18 U Mu Ling Ta ........................................C4Information19 Air Bagan office ...................................B220 Asian Wings..........................................B321 Immigration Office ..............................C222 Sunfar Travels......................................B3Transport23 Shwe Mya Taw Express ......................C324 Thet Nay Wun ......................................C3The poshest option in town, the KyaingeTong New Hotel by the lake, is governmentowned.Princess Hotel HOTEL $$(%21319; kengtung@mail4u.com.mm; s/d $30-50;a) The most popular midrange choice intown, the Princess Hotel has a great locationnear the market, and capable service. Therooms are large and come equipped with atelevision, air-conditioning, a fridge and aphone.Sam Yweat Guest House HOTEL $(%21235; cnr Kyaing Lan 1 Rd & Kyaing Lan 4 Rd;s/d $10/20) Bare but tidy rooms in a convenientlylocated residence. Some share abathroom, but all rooms are the same price.Another 29 rooms should be finished by thetime you read this. The same people run afar less inviting place on Airport Rd.Private Hotel HOTEL $$(%21438; www.privatehotelmyanmar.com; 5 AirportRd; s/d $20/28) Away from the centre, on theroad to the airport, this place offers plentyof creature comforts. The eccentric ownermakes every effort to please and there’s acute lawn with benches where you can soakup the sun. Rooms have a TV, a minibar and24-hour hot water.Law Yee Chain Hotel HOTEL $$(%21219; Kyain Nyan Rd; s/d $20/30; a) Abovea Chinese bakery just south of the market,Law Yee Chain Hotel opened in late 2007and everything still feels new. The smartrooms have air-con, TV and carpet, and immaculatebathrooms with hot showers.Harry’s Trekking House HOTEL $(%21418; 132 Mai Yang Rd; r $7-20) Harry’s isabout 1½ miles north of the lake in Kanaburoyvillage. Most rooms are located in thetwo modern buildings and are outfitted witha TV and a bathroom, although there arealso a few simple wooden rooms. Treks andtransport can be arranged from here.Saeng Tip Hotel HOTEL $(%22445; Airport Rd; r $15; a) If you’ve everstayed in a hotel in rural China, this starklybare place will seem familiar. The good newsis that they claim to provide electricity allday and night.Noi Yee Hotel HOTEL $(%21144; 5 Mine Yen St; s/d $5/10) A former royalresidence, the Noi Yee has fallen on hardtimes. The faded colonial charm ends at reception– rooms are grungy and the sharedbathrooms need some serious TLC.5EatingMany restaurants in Kengtung have a distinctivelyThai flavour – no doubt thanksto the trickle of Thai tourists. The followingrestaurants are open for breakfast, lunchand dinner.For local eats, your only options are themorning market or dinner with a generouslocal family.195KENGTUNG EASTERN MYANMAR & BORDER EATING KENGTUNG AREAS EATING (KYAINGTONG)

196EASTERN MYANMAR KENGTUNG & BORDER AREASTHE SHANEastern Myanmar is the heartland of the Buddhist Shan tribe, who have strong culturallinks to the Tai peoples of northern Thailand. Many of the towns in eastern and northernMyanmar were once ruled by hereditary Shan chieftains known as sao pha (sky lords).With their strong sense of cultural identity and separatist leanings, the Shan have longbeen perceived as a threat by the central government.Shan talk of succession from the Union of Burma was one of the triggers for the 1962military coup. On the day of the takeover Sao Shwe Thaik, a Shan sao pha who hadbeen Burma’s first president, was arrested and his 17-year-old son shot dead – the onlycasualty of the coup. Sao Shwe Thaik died in prison within the year and an insurrectionstarted that still simmers in parts of the state today.In 2011, the ethnic Shan Dr Sai Mauk Kham, a politician from the military-backedUnion Solidarity and Development Party (USDP), won a vote in parliament to becomeMyanmar’s vice president. For more about the Shan see p 312 .Lod Htin Lu Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Kyange Rd; mains from K1500) Downhill fromthe mausoleums of the Khün princes, thisis another Chinese banquet restaurant withprivate tables for families screened off bypartitions at the back. The menu featuresnoodle soups, pork with cashews and otherChinese classics.Golden BanyanRestaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(mains from K2000) Yet another Chinesestylerestaurant near the mausoleums ofthe Khün princes. Food is pretty standardfor this kind of restaurant but the outdoortables beneath a huge banyan tree createatmosphere.Pann Gabar THAI, BURMESE $(Airport Rd; mains from K2000) If you fancya break from Chinese food, this popularroadhouse by the bridge on the Airport Rdhas indoor and outdoor seating and goodThai food – the chef doesn’t scrimp on spices.Seik Tie Kya Restaurant CHINESE, BURMESE $(Airport Rd; mains from K1500) This recommendedChinese restaurant has a cosy diningroom at the back and tables under anawning in the yard. The spicy bean-curdhotpot is big enough for two.7 ShoppingKengtung’s morning market has a couple ofstalls selling hilltribe handicrafts.U Mu Ling TaLACQUERWARE(off Tachileik Rd) This fifth-generation, familyrunshop specialises in lacquerware, fromthe ubiquitous multi-coloured Bagan styleto the striking, black Kengtung style. Piecesare made on-site, so you can get a peek intothe production process if you don’t have thebudget (they’re not cheap). It’s located at thetop of an unmarked driveway on TachileikRd – locals should be able to point you in theright direction.8InformationMoneychangers in the market exchange kyat, USdollars, Thai baht and Chinese yuan.gooGate (per hr K500; h9am-9pm) Convenientlylocated internet access off KyainNyan Rd.Immigration Office (cnr Zay Tan Gyi St & YangKon Rd; h24hr) Down an alley north of thePaleng gate; issues permits for travel aroundKengtung and to Tachileik.Sunfar Travels (%22626; 65 Loi Mwe Rd;h9am-6pm) Sells tickets for all the privateairlines.8Getting There & AwayThe only way to reach Kengtung from insideMyanmar is by air, but road travel is permittedto Tachileik with a permit from Kengtung’s immigrationoffi ce.TRAVELRESTRICTIONSFrom inside Myanmar, Kengtung is accessibleonly by air, and travellers enteringMyanmar overland from Thailandcannot travel to the rest of the country.Travel was previously possible betweenKengtung and Mong La, on theChinese border, but at research timethis was off-limits.

BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik is a legal crossing point for foreign tourists. But, as with all of Myanmar’s landcrossings, there are several caveats and the following information is liable to change, socheck the situation locally before you travel.At the time of research, we’d received reports of a few travellers who had been permittedto cross into Thailand at Tachileik with advance permission from MTT in Yangon.Permits are issued in around two weeks and cost at least $50, but you may be requiredto book your flights and a taxi to the border through MTT. If you do obtain permission tocross into Thailand, the Thai authorities will issue you a 14-day Thai visa on arrival, or youcan enter with a Thai visa obtained overseas.If you’re starting from Mae Sai, in Thailand, it’s very straightforward to cross to Tachileikfor the day and slightly more complicated to get a two-week visa and permission tovisit Kengtung.The Thai immigration office is open from 6.30am to 6.30pm. After taking care of theusual formalities, cross the bridge and head to the Myanmar immigration office. Hereyou pay 500B and your picture is taken for a temporary ID card that allows you to stay intown for the day; your passport will be kept at the office.If you’d like to stay longer or visit Kengtung, you’ll be directed to the adjacent TouristInformation office. There you’ll need three photos, $10 and 50B to process a borderpass valid for 15 days; your passport will be kept at the border. It’s also obligatory to hirea guide for the duration of your stay. Guides cost 1000B per day (400B of this goes toMTT), and if you haven’t already arranged for a Kengtung-based guide to meet you atborder, you’ll be assigned one by MTT and will also have to pay for your guide’s food andaccommodation during your stay. See p 193 for some recommended Kengtung-basedguides and p 198 for details on getting to Kengtung.For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downloadablePDF of the Northern Thailand chapter from Lonely Planet’s Thailand guide.197KENGTUNG EASTERN MYANMAR & BORDER 8 TACHILEIK AREAS 8AirAir Bagan (%22790; www.airbagan.com), ownedby Ta Za (p 21 ), and Asian Wings (%22300; www.asianwingsairlines.com) have offi ces in town andoperate three fl ights a week between Kengtungand Heho ($85, one hour). If you’re bound forYangon ($130, three hours), you’ll have to fl y viaHeho and Mandalay ($95, 1½ hours).Taxis charge K5000 and trishaws K2000 forthe 2-mile trip to/from the airport.Bus & Pick-Up TruckForeigners can travel by road to Tachileik butthe 280-mile road between Kengtung andTaunggyi is completely off-limits. Offi cials blamebanditry and fi ghting between the governmentand Shan and Wa rebel groups, but the banprobably has more to do with the suspectedsmuggling of opium and methamphetaminesthrough the Golden Triangle.If you want to visit Tachileik by bus fromKengtung, you must fi rst visit the immigrationoffi ce in order to get written permission that willallow you to pass the route’s numerous securitycheckpoints. The same procedure must be carriedout at the Tachileik immigration offi ce toreturn to Kengtung. In practice, it usually helpsto get someone from your hotel to help withthese arrangements.Shwe Mya Taw Express (%23145; TachileikRd) and Thet Nay Wun (%23291; Kyain NyanRd) each run buses to Tachileik at 8am and noon(K10,000, fi ve hours). Share taxis, which departfrom 6am to noon from Kengtung’s bus station,charge K10,000 to K15,000 per seat or about2500 Thai baht, about US$75 for the entire car.8Getting AroundDrivers of motorcycle taxis and trishaws wearcoloured bibs. The going rate for a downtowntrip is K1000. A trishaw from the airport to towncosts K2000.Taxis can be arranged at Harry’s TrekkingHouse and Princess Hotel; rates are cheapest atthe former and start at K36,000 for a full day.TachileiktCxYIlit'%084 / POP C10,000Facing the town of Mae Sai across the Thai-Myanmar border, this nondescript town islike border towns all over Asia – it’s a borderpost and a magnet for black-market goods,and sports a handful of hotels catering totravellers en route to somewhere else. Thaibaht is the accepted currency here.

198EASTERN MYANMAR KAYAH STATE©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd4SleepingIf crossing the border into Thailand is anoption, you’ll find the accommodation therebetter in every respect. Hotels in Tachileikprefer payment in Thai baht, but some placeswill accept US dollars.River Side Hotel HOTEL $$(%51161; r 600B; a) Located on the river lessthan a block from the bridge that connectsMyanmar and Thailand, this hotel has cleanrooms with attached bathroom.In Mae Sai, on the Thai side of the border,the Maesai Guest House on the river isrecommended.8 Getting There & AwayAir Bagan (www.airbagan.com), owned by TayZa (see p 21 ), and Asian Wings (www.asianwingsairlines.com) fl y from Tachileik to Kengtung($42, 25 minutes) – but not in the oppositedirection.Buses depart from Tachileik’s bus station,2km and a 10B truck ride or a K1500/40B motorcycletaxi ride from the border, at 8am andnoon (K10,000, fi ve hours). Alternatively, youcan charter a taxi for 2500B or, if you’re willingto wait, get a front/back seat in a share taxi forK15,000/10,000.KAYAH STATELike Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) Division inthe south, Kayah State (kyC"¨p–'ny') isyet another one of those uniquely Burmesedestinations that’s open to foreign tourists,but not really open.Wedged between Shan State to the northand west, Kayin State to the west and south,and Thailand to the east, tiny Kayah State ishome to a disproportionate number of tribalgroups, including the Padaung, Yinbaw,Bre, Kayin (Karen) and Karenni (Red Karen).It is indeed possible to visit KayahState, but only with permission from thegovernment and only on a prearranged,government-sanctioned package tour. Thenorm is a five-day trip that largely centresin and around Loikaw (the state capital)and terminates with a boat trip to InleLake. Sounds fun, but it’s rather costly andthe feedback we’ve heard from the handfulof those who have done the trip wasn’t allthat inspiring. If you’re determined, at leastsix weeks ahead of time, contact one of theYangon-based travel agents in this book (seep 69 ), who will initiate the necessary permitsetc on your behalf.© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdMandalay & AroundMandalay . . . . . . . . . . . 201Amarapura . . . . . . . . 224Ayeyarwady Bridges . . 225Inwa (Ava) . . . . . . . . . 225Sagaing . . . . . . . . . . . 228Mingun . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Paleik . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231Yankin Hill . . . . . . . . . .231Best ReligiousStructures» Bagaya Kyaung (p 225 )» Mahamuni Paya (p 208 )» Mingun Paya (p 230 )» Pahtodawgyi (p 225 )» Sagaing Hill monasteries(p 228 )» Shwe In Bin (p 209 )Best Views» River scenes from ViewPoint cafe (p 216 ) or therooftop of Ayarwaddy RiverView Hotel (p 214 )» Chanthaya Paya and footbridgeseen across the lakefrom the west (p 211 )» U Bein’s Bridge from thelake (p 224 )Why Go?For those who haven’t been there – and that list includedThe Road to Mandalay author Rudyard Kipling – the mentionof ‘Mandalay’ typically conjures up images of Asia atits most traditional and timeless. The initial reality can bea major anticlimax – a traffic-choked grid of interminablestraight roads full of anonymous concrete buildings. Butdon’t despair. Though it’s a relatively ‘young’, dynamic city,Mandalay (mNÿel") is Myanmar’s cultural capital. It’s easyto escape the fumes and architectural banalities of the mainstreets in quarters full of craftworkers and tree-shaded monasteries.Temple-topped Mandalay Hill offers a welcomedexception to the city’s pan-flat topography and several minitheatresshowcase traditional performing arts. Meanwhile,Mandalay is the ideal transport hub for northern Myanmarand offers a panoply of easy day-trip destinations, includingthree former royal capitals and the site of what would havebeen the world’s biggest stupa, had it ever been finished.When to GoIn the winter tourist season, days are still hot but evenings aremild and you might need a light jacket if you’re riding a motorbikeafter sunset. By March you may find it hard to sleepwithout air-conditioning, while April and May really bake withtemperatures sometimes reaching 104°F (40°C) by day anddust caking the trees (and the back of your throat). At suchtimes, cool down by nipping up to nearby Pyin Oo Lwin (p 250 ).If you’re not interested in participating in the waterthrowingfun of Thingyan (see p 16 ), it’s generally best toavoid April, especially 12 to 21 April, when almost all publictransport stops and shops are closed. Restaurants mostlyclose too, and those hotel eateries that still serve mightdouble their prices.In August, Mandalay regional transport can be overloadedfor several weeks due to huge crowds heading to and fromthe vast nat festival at nearby Taungbyone, which culminatesover the five days before the August (Wagaung) full moon.

200Mingun Paya #3 # ÚMingun#e 0 6 km0 2 milesTo Taungbyone,Mataya‚MANDALAY & AROUNDRailway line to Shwebo, MyitkyinaKaunghmudhawPaya# ÚSagaging Hill#2 # æMandalay# æJail6ShwetaChaung # æMandalayHillTo MyaMandalay Kyauk Kyaung;PalaceYankin PayaFerry toMingun # æ Golden # ÿ# fMandalayMya Nandar#ú CyclingFast Boatsto Katha # f Tour GoldRupar# ÿIWT Ferries # f #4 #æ Pounders'MandalarDistrict#5 # Ú#7Shwe In Bin Kyaung#›Pyi Gyi MyatKandawgyiShin BusLake # ÚMahamuni#6Paya StationCoffee ## úý Lake ViewTower # û EmperorSmartGarden # úPahtodawgyiSilk#æ# ÚWorkshopsAmarapura6 6 6 6 6 66Sagaing'Road to# æ Mandalay'Shwe- # ÚKyet-Yetjetty# V ThabyedanFortAyeyarwady River84th St#1 # æU Bein’s BridgeTaungthamanLake22nd St84th St78th St35th St26th St‚19th StYay Ni Canal‚InwaSouthVillageTadu-UPaleikSnakeTemple# æPaleikVillageTo MandalayInternationalAirport‚‚ToYangonMandalay & Around Highlights1 Join the dawn monk paradecrossing the world’s longestteak bridge, Amarapura’s iconicU Bein’s Bridge (p224 )2 Look over pagodas andthe Ayeyarwady River fromatop Sagaing Hill (p228 ), animportant religious site3 Climb Mingun Paya(p230 ), a king-sizedunfinished stupa reached by aboat ride from Mandalay4 Escape Mandalay’s bigcitybustle with our cyclingtour (p211 )5 Potter around Mandalay’sless-known monasteries,including the beautiful teakmasterpiece, Shwe In BinKyaung (p 209 )6 Arrive by 4am atMahamuni Paya (p 208 ) asattendants brush the teethof the country’s most famousbuddha image7 Discover the wealth ofcrafts being made, includingedible sheets of gold-leaf, inthe Gold Pounders’ District(p 209 ) around 36th St

NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city streets are laid out on a grid system and numbered from east to west (upto 49th) and north to south (over 50th). A street address that reads 66th (26/27) meansthe place is located on 66th St between 26th and 27th Sts. Corner addresses are givenin the form 26th at 82nd St. Some of the longer east–west streets can also take namesonce they cross the Shweta Chaung (Shweta Canal) heading west. Hence 19th St becomesInwa St, 22nd St becomes Pinya St, 26th St becomes Bayintnaung Rd and 35thSt becomes Yangyiaung Rd. But even here the numbered address system still works.The ‘downtown’ area runs roughly from 21st St to 35th St, between 80th St and 88thSt. Across the tracks, 78th St is developing into the main site for big shopping malls;73rd St is also bustling as it leads down to the university. Major east–west thoroughfaresinclude 26th and 35th Sts plus 19th St east of the moat.HistoryAccording to Burmese myths, Buddha himselfvisited Mandalay Hill (see p 201 ) andalso found time to scuttle up a riversidebluff (p 225 ) in the guise of a chicken. In lesslegendary epochs, Mandalay didn’t actuallytake shape as a city until 1857. Its brief, ifmomentous, period as a tailor-made Burmesecapital lasted from only 1861 until theBritish take-over in 1885. However, severalother post-Bagan capitals lay very close totoday’s city (see p 224 ). On several occasionsnew kings sought to build their legacy byfounding a new capital, often transportingbuilding materials with them, meaninglittle remained at the old site. The longestlasting of these was Inwa, known to Europeansas Ava.MANDALAY%02 / POP C1,100,000 / ELEV 244FTThe natural focus of the city is an abrupthill, rising above a vast moated and walledsquare. It once contained the sprawlingroyal city but apart from reconstructedMandalay Palace at the very centre, this isnow a sparse, mostly out-of-bounds area ofmilitary encampments. Today the city’s centresprawls for miles, the commercial heartlying south and west of the fort. Quieter monasticdistricts are further west towards theAyeyarwady River.1SightsNORTHERN MANDALAYIf you’re fed up with visiting pagodas, thisarea also has a swimming pool (p 210 ), golfcourse and zoo (Map p 204 ; admission K2000;h8am-5pm), the latter built in 1989 to covera site used during the 1988 demonstrations.Mandalay HillLANDMARKmNÿel"et;='(Map p 204 ; camera/video fee K500/1000) To geta sense of Mandalay’s pancake-flat sprawl,climb the 760ft hill that breaks it. The viewpointis especially popular at sunset whenyoung monks converge on foreigners for languagepractice.For many visitors the 45-minute barefootclimb (all on covered stairways) is a majorpart of the experience, but you’ll need atleast a minimum level of fitness. The mostcommon starting point is at the south, eitherbetween two giant chinthe (guardianlion-dog creatures) or by another stairwaystarting further southeast where theBobokyi Nat (spirit statue) watches overthe entrance. The routes converge a littlesouth of a large standing Buddha, whopoints an outstretched arm towards theroyal palace. No, he’s not playing Lenin, butrather indicating the location of Myanmar’sfuture capital. According to legend, the Buddha,accompanied by his disciple Ananda,really did climb Mandalay Hill and prophesiedthat, in the 2400th year of his faith, agreat city would be founded below the hill.By our calendar that 2400th year was 1857,the year that King Mindon did indeed decreethe capital’s move from Amarapura toMandalay.Further up is the Myatsawnyinaung OrdinationHall. It’s a large, forgettable concreteaffair that most people walk straight through.But if you cross the hall and look out to thenortheast, you’ll spy the remnants of a threestoreystone fort. Back on the main pathway,steep steps lead past a memorial to Britain’sRoyal Berkshire Regiment who retook thatfort from the Japanese in March 1945.As you near the summit, the plethora ofsouvenir stands and ‘Hello Water’ womenMANDALAY SIGHTS& AROUND SIGHTS

202MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYGreater Mandalay #e1234567Strand Rdf#20#û#15# ÿ 6Thinga19ACanalYarzar1 # Ú5# ÚAyeyarwady RiverShwe InBin Kyaung# Ú14ü## æ3#Ú 241st StPinya St91st St26th St87th St89th St89th St87th St86th StB38th St85th StSHANDISTRICTSaigaing-Mandalay Rd14th St16th StInwa St21st St84th St35th St666666666MyaukPyin(North # £Mandalay)82nd St19th St20th St66666627th St28th St30th St32nd St34th St# £ MandalaySee Northern Mandalay Map (p204)ww ww80th St79th StNo entry forforeigners78th St# ÿ7Fort Moat76th St75th StNo entry forforeignersZoo#ëMandalay#âPalace & FortMandalayPalaceNo entry forforeignersGolfCourseNorth Moat St (12th St)To Pyi Gyi MyatGold Pounders'17Shin bus station#ð Workshop û#13# þ(800m)ú#10 #þ æ## ÿ81812ú# û# 9 û#11ý#1682nd St18th StSee Central Mandalay Map (p206)21#›81st St80th St‚C39th St10th St11th St0 1 km0 0.5milesDToTaungbyone76th St7373rd St‚thStNgwe Ta Chaung Canal26th St28th St29th St32nd St33rd StUniversity70th StYay Ni Canal‚To Rupar Mandalar(1.5mi)68th St‚1234567A4#æBMahamuni# ÚPayaCTheikPanStD

Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDrinkingGold Pounders'11 JJ Cafe 2..................................................C6Workshop ............................................ C6 12 Super One...............................................C6Mahamuni Paya..................................... B7 13 Uncle Chan's.......................................... D6Shwe In Bin Kyaung............................... A6 14 Unison Teahouse ...................................A615 View Point ...............................................A4æ Sights View Point ......................................(see 15)Aurora.............................................(see 17)1 Chanthaya Paya..................................... A5 ý Entertainment2 Jade Market ........................................... B6 16 Moustache Brothers..............................C6King Galon..................................... (see 18)3 Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung........................ A6 þ Shopping4 Stone Carvers' Golden Rose .................................. (see 17)Workshops .......................................... B7 17 Golden Rose ...........................................C65 Tingaza Kyaung ..................................... A5 Jade Market.................................... (see 2)18 Shwe Pathein..........................................C6ÿ Sleeping Soe Moe .........................................(see 18)6 Ayarwaddy River ViewHotel .................................................... A4 ï Transport7 Great Wall Hotel..................................... C7 19 IWT (Bagan slow boat, ticket8 Hotel Mandalay...................................... C6 office) ...................................................A620 Mayan Chan Jetty ..................................A4ú Eating21 Thiri Mandala Bus Station (for9 Shwe War Thar ...................................... B6 Monywa, Shwebo) ..............................B410 Sin Yin Chun........................................... C6 Tourist Boat Association............. (see 20)203MANDALAY SIGHTS& AROUND SIGHTSbecomes ever more dense. This means it’sall too easy to miss the small penultimatestupa, in front of which a contemporarystatue depicts ogress San Dha Mukhi offeringforth her severed breasts. That’s thesort of display that might have alarmed amore squeamish man, but according to legend,her bizarre feat of self-mutilation impressedBuddha so much that he ensuredher reincarnation 2400 years later as KingMindon.If you aren’t up to the 45-minute eachwaywalk, it’s possible to take a taxi (blue/normal taxi K8000/10,000) using a longswitchback road (allegedly built with forcedlabour) that brings you within an escalatorride of the summit. Along the same routethere are also very occasional shared pickupshuttles charging a hefty K1000 per person.They leave from near the giant chintheentrance. These shuttles have usually ceasedbefore sunset. Beware that police don’t likeletting motorbikes up Mandalay Hill. Somemotorcycle-taxi drivers even claim to havelost their bikes for giving it a go while afew foreigners have received fines for ridingtheir rental bikes up.Shwenandaw Kyaung BUDDHIST MONASTERYeránn'"et;'ekY;='"(Golden Palace Monastery; Map p 204 ; admission $10combo ticket) Lavished in carved panels thisfine teak monastery-temple was originallybuilt as the royal apartment of King Mindon,who died inside it in 1878. Reputedly unableto cope with Mindon’s ghost, his successor,King Thibaw, had the building dismantled,carted out of the palace complex and reassembledoutside the walls, where it was convertedinto a monastery (1880). It’s a goodthing he did, as all the other palace’s royalbuildings were later lost to WWII bombs.At one time the building was gilded anddecorated with glass mosaics. These havelong gone and some exterior panels haveweathered badly or been removed or replaced,but those inside are still in excellentcondition, particularly the 10 Jataka (pastlifestories of the Buddha).Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi BUDDHIST TEMPLEatumrHiekY;='"(Atula; Map p 204 ; admission $10 combo ticket;h9am-5pm) This unusually shaped temple isa series of diminishing stupa-dotted terracesover an arched base decorated with peacock

6666666666666666666666666204MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYNorthern Mandalay1234514th St30 þ#81st St80th StMyaukPyin(NorthMandalay)# £80th St# 33# £MandalayNorth Moat St (12th St)# æ11No entry forforeignersGolfCourseOldRacecourse14# ã ÿ## æ816#ë 13Fort Moat# Ú 125# æ3 # ÚAirplaneWater# æ Tank Tomb of25on Rocks #ä King Mindon# úCulture Museum # æ Bronze Hero Statues# âPalace In # æ # âMandalay PalaceMiniature6#æ# æ&FortmodelNo entry forRuinedforeignersTouristMandalay PalaceTrains23# úNo entryfor foreignersMandalaySwanÿ## ú # úHotel262022# ð# æ# ã# ÿ # ÿ 171924# ú27# ð32 #ï # ý28# ú# ý 29# ú 2179th StASee Central MandalayMap (p206)78th St26th St27th StA77th St10th St11th St76th St‚ToTaungbyone75th St76th St74th St30th St73rd StBB72nd St71st St70th St28th St68th St#e 0 1 km0 0.5 milesCDR#æ Mandalay# æ 9 Hill# V17 # æC66th StEast Moat St65th St4# æ# Ú 1025th St14th St15th St18th St23rd St24th St64th St1# Ú# ÚShwenandawKyaung# ÿ 1563rd StMyomanda St# Ú216th St19th St21st St# þ3162nd St22nd StD18# ÿYay Ni Canal2345motifs. When built in 1857, it housed a famousBuddha image clothed in royal silkclothing and with a huge diamond set onits forehead. However, the image was stolenfollowing the 1885 British takeover, and themonastery was gutted by fire five years later.What you see today is a 1996 reconstruction.Kyauktawgyi PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEekY;k'et;'äkI".ur;"(Map p 204 ; 12th St, 66/68; admission free; h5am-8pm) At the heart of this large 19th-centurycomplex is a 900-tonne Buddha, 26ft tall anddressed in royal attire. Carved from a singleblock of marble, it reputedly took 10,000men 13 days to transport it from a canal tothe present site before its dedication in 1865.Outer halls are edged in mirror tiles. Look forthe little subshrine room displaying a giantalms bowl and colourful renderings of KingMindon’s 1865 visit. Mandalay’s biggest festivalis held here for seven days in October.Moat & Fortress WallsFORTIFICATIONS(Map p 204 ) Seen from the air, Mandalayseems to have a vast 2.5km square cut out ofits middle. In fact, that’s the Mandalay Fort,ringed by a 230ft-wide moat and crenellated

Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Royal City Hotel......................................A5Mandalay Hill...........................................C1 20 Sedona Mandalay...................................C5Mandalay Palace & Fort........................ B3Shwenandaw Kyaung............................ D2 ú Eating21 A Little Bit of Mandalay..........................C5æ Sights22 BBB .........................................................A51 Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi ...................... D2 23 Café City .................................................C42 Kuthodaw Paya...................................... D2 24 Green Elephant.......................................C53 Kyauktawgyi Paya ................................. C2 25 Ko's Kitchen............................................A34 Mandalay Hill Bobokyi Nat 26 Marie-Min................................................B5Entrance .............................................. C2 Peacock Lodge..............................(see 18)5 Mandalay Hill Chinthe Entrance........... C2 Spice Garden .................................(see 15)6 Mandalay Palace East Gate .................. C3 27 Too Too Restaurant...............................B57 Myatsawnyinaung OrdinationHall........................................................C1 ý Entertainment8 Peshawar Relics..................................... C2 28 Mandalay Marionettes...........................C59 San Dha Mukhi statue............................C1 29 Mintha Theater.......................................C510 Sandamuni Paya.................................... D2 Yatanaban Restaurant..................(see 14)11 Shwe Mann Taung Golf Resort..............B112 Standing Buddha....................................C1 þ Shopping13 Zoo.......................................................... C2 30 Garuda ....................................................A231 Rocky ......................................................D5Activities, Courses & Tours Sunflower...................................... (see 26)14 Yatanaban Swimming Pool................... C2Informationÿ Sleeping32 MTT (Myanmar Travels &15 Hotel by the Red Canal.......................... D4 Tours)...................................................C516 Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel ................... C217 Mandalay View Inn................................. C5 Transport18 Peacock Lodge ...................................... D5 33 Sun Far Travels & Tours........................A5205MANDALAY SIGHTS & AROUND SIGHTS26ft-high walls cut from deep red-brownstone. The walls are punctuated at regular intervalswith gatetowers topped by pyramidsof fancifully carved woodwork. The overalleffect isn’t quite as impressive as you mightanticipate, in part because of the sheer lengthand regularity of the walls, but the scene createsphotogenic reflections in the moat, andin certain long-zoom angles the watchtowersappear to stretch to infinity. Built in 1857, thefort was a walled city within a city where therelative locations of the teak houses representedthe residents’ status within the socialhierarchy. At the centre was the royal palace.Mandalay PalacePALACEmNÿel"nn'"et×(Map p 204 ; admission $10 combo ticket; hentry7.30am-4.30pm) Before 1885, the fortresswalls enclosed a gigantic royal city. The Britishejected the Burmese elite from their teakhouses and deported King Thibaw, then demolishedpart of the original city to create aparade ground and turned the centrepiecepalace complex into a governor’s residenceand club. Much later, during fierce WWIIfighting in March 1945, the palace itselfcaught fire and was destroyed leaving nothingof the original. Today the area withinthe walls is mostly a vast tree-shaded armycamp. However, foreign visitors can visit thecentral palace, which was completely rebuiltin the late 1990s, reputedly using forced labour.Foreigners may enter the fortress areaonly through the east gate (by trishaw, taxi,bicycle etc), and due to army sensibilities areallowed only within the oval palace loop plusalong the road that leads there directly (eventhough there’s no obvious physical barrier toventuring down some other roads).The reconstruction is impressive for itsscale (over 40 timber buildings) and completeness,but less so for its artistry and thepeeling paint on its corrugated metal roofs.Start by getting a general overview by climbingthe curious spiral watchtower, but

206MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYCentral Mandalay12345‚2Ú#ATo Thiri Mandalabus station(270m)BayintnaungRd22#úProduceÿ#6 MarketEindawya St87th St86th StShwetaChaung4 Ú## æ386th StMarket85thSt˜#43# ú15#ò# ú16ß#25# ú ÿ## ú717# ÿ8Ú#5Kyauk ß#34Mosque#ð#1#â23#ú10# ÿ# 33 35 # 26# ÿ## ú21ú32˜### ú1811#ó# Ü## áClock3738SacredTowerHeart # ÿ12# þCathedral29ß#Central31# ÿ #Mosque9 ð## ÿ# ú1320# Central˜#41 # ú19Hotel# Þ ß## ÞPlaza# Þ# þ27ß#40 #SHANDISTRICTMan MyanmarShopping28th St29th St30th St31st St32nd StPinya St27th St84thStB# 3984th St25th StÚ#LanleiPayaß#83rd St26th St22nd St82nd St14# ú# æTMWTower45#46 ##e 0 400 m0 0.2 milesCD82nd St23rd St24th St# 44Fire# æLookoutTower# ñ# 3681stSt# 4224# ú80th St666No entry forforeigners80th St79th St‚MandalayPalaceFort Moat30#ðMandalay#£ # ïSee Northern Mandalay# 47 Map (p204)78th St12345A33rd StB28#þCDbeware of dangerously missing and rottingfloorboards.The throne room is the palace’s moststriking building, a soaring multi-layeredpyramid of gilt filigree. Linked behind this isthe ‘Hall of Victory’, then the so-called GlassPalace (aka Central Palace), where the kingslived. It was so named not because of anywindows, but because King Thibaw slept ina four-poster bed made with glass pillars.This bed still exists, and is today displayedat the Culture Museum, the westernmostbuilding within the palace oval, which wasonce Chief Queen’s Audience Hall. The museumalso includes 13 life-sized models offormer cabinet members in traditional attireand some great vintage photos: the Burmeseenvoys to France must have caused a stir incostumes that even Gaultier couldn’t havetopped.Many other buildings within the oval areopen but empty. Outside the oval (and thusout of bounds), you might spy the tomb ofKing Mindon, ruined narrow-gauge trainsthat once ferried tourists around, sheds containingover 600 stone inscription slabs anda small airplane on some rocks in the trees.

Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Ngai ..................................................B51 Cultural Museum & Library .................. D2 29 Zeigyo......................................................B22 Eindawya Paya....................................... A33 Mini Golden Rock................................... A4 Information4 Setkyathiha Paya................................... A4 30 Acme-Net................................................D25 Shwekyimyint Paya ................................C1 31 Seven Diamond Express........................C2207ÿ SleepingTransport6 AD1 Hotel................................................ A3 32 Aung Yedana (share taxis to7 Classic Hotel ...........................................B1 Taunggyi).............................................C28 ET Hotel...................................................C1 33 Bicycle Rental Shop ...............................C29 Mandalay City Hotel .............................. C3 34 Chandar Aung (locals-only day10 Nylon Hotel ............................................ B2 bus to Taunggyi) ................................. C111 Royal Guest House ................................ C2 35 Daw San San Aye ...................................C212 Sabai Phyu Hotel ................................... C2 36 Duhtawadi...............................................C413 Silver Star Hotel..................................... B3 Mann Shwe Pyi ............................. (see 45)37 Mr Jerry (bike rental).............................B2ú Eating38 Myanma Airways Office.........................C214 Gold Medal ............................................. C4 39 Pick-ups to Amarapura,15 Golden Shan............................................B1 Sagaing and main bus16 Karaweik..................................................B1 station ..................................................B417 Lashio Lay ...............................................B1 40 Pick-ups to Pyin Oo Lwin.......................B318 Mann....................................................... C2 Seven Diamond Express...............(see 31)19 Nay.......................................................... C3 41 Shared Taxi.............................................C320 NVC......................................................... C3 42 Shwe Li Oo share taxis to21 Nylon Ice Cream Bar ............................. B2 Lashio...................................................C522 Produce Market..................................... A2 43 Shwe Li Shan (shared taxi to23 Pyi Taw Win............................................ C2 Lashio) ................................................. B124 SB ........................................................... D4 44 Shwe Mandalar Express ........................C525 Sri Karaweik ............................................C1 45 Shwe Mann Thu......................................C526 V Café/Skybar ....................................... D2 Shwe Taung Yo............................. (see 45)46 Taung Paw Thar .....................................C5þ Shopping47 Yedena ....................................................C527 Night Market .......................................... B3MANDALAY SIGHTS & AROUND SIGHTSCENTRAL MANDALAYThe downtown area is not the city’s mostbeautiful. However, it is easy enough to escapeinto fascinating tree-shaded back alleysfurther west (see Cycling Tour, p 211 ).And even amid the smoggy central grid oflacklustre five-storey concrete ordinarinesslurk many pagodas, striking churches andnotable mosques. The colourful, sculpturecrustedgopuram (monumental tower)of Sri Krishna Temple might excite youif you’ve never been to southern India orSingapore.Eindawya PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE(Map p 206 ; Eindawya St, 88/89; admission free)Built in 1847 by King Pagan Min, Eindawyais ranged around a typical gilded pagoda offa street where shops sell all the gear a monkwould need. Little visited, its importance isas the site of one of Myanmar’s many culturalbattles before independence. In 1919 agroup of Europeans had defied the Buddhistban on shoe-wearing within Eindawya andwere forcibly evicted by outraged monks.For their pains, four monks were convictedby a colonial court, and one, U Kettaya, receiveda life sentence. (So please take yourshoes off!)Setkyathiha PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE(Map p 206 ; 30th St, 85/86) Hidden behindshopfronts for most part, this large elevatedpagoda complex includes a ‘golden rock’look-alike and a sacred bodhi tree plantedby U Nu, Myanmar’s first post-independenceprime minister. However, it is best knownfor an impressive 17ft-high seated bronzeBuddha, cast in 1823 by King Bagyidaw.

208MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYTHE $10 COMBO TICKET & HOW TO DODGE ITRather than paying individual entry fees, most of Mandalay area’s key sites are paid forcollectively by buying a $10 combo ticket at any of the sites involved. Looking somethinglike an undernourished credit card, the ticket has a scratch-and-reveal PIN number thatis supposedly entered into a computer to be linked with your name and purchase date.According to text on the ticket, it is valid a week from first use, though certain entrybooths insist that this is a mistake and claim that it is only really valid for four (eventhree) days. But as there’s no date written on the ticket anyway, and as few of the sites’computers are actually on line, you’re unlikely to be challenged.While the $10 fee isn’t unreasonable for the large range of attractions covered, manyvisitors feel uncomfortable that the fee goes to the government (Archaeology department;see p 21 ). If you go to Mandalay Palace, Atumashi Kyaungdawgyi, Shwenandaw Kyaung orkey sites at out-of-town Inwa, you won’t have a shot of visiting without paying. But trickerycan get you at least a peep into several others while substitution can show you equivalentfree gems. Random discoveries and lesser-known sights are often more interesting thanthe commercialised tourist ‘must sees’ anyway. Consider the following tactics:» The south entrance (not west) of Kuthodaw Paya (p 210 ) has ticket checkers, who sitat a table and chat away until they leave work at 5pm. If avoiding them seems too 007for you, the similarly designed adjoining Sandamuni Paya (p 210 ) is free and featuresplenty more slab-in-stupa monuments.» The teak Shwenandaw Kyaung (p 203 ) can be spied with your zoom from outside theunobtrusive fence, but you won’t get in without a ticket. South of the centre, however,the equally impressive ‘teak monastery’ Shwe In Bin (p 209 ) is ticket-free.» According to attendants on Mandalay Hill, the combo ticket is no longer requiredthere, but should you find otherwise, Yankin Paya (p 231 ), 3 miles east, makes a finealternative for sunset viewing and sees far fewer foreigners.Shwekyimyint PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE(Map p 206 ; 24th St, 82/83) Founded in 1167by Prince Minshinzaw, exiled son of KingAlaungsithu, Shwekyimyint considerablypredates Mandalay itself. It’s famous for anoriginal Buddha image consecrated by theprince and for other images collected bylater Myanmar kings that were relocatedhere after the British occupied MandalayPalace. However, these images are shown tothe public only on important religious occasions.Shwekyimyint is tucked away behindthe strikingly modern Kyauk Mosque.Cultural Museum & LibraryMUSEUM(Map p 206 ; 80th St, 24/25; admission $5; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat) This dowdy, poorly lit threeroomcollection displays archaeologicalfinds, Buddhas and a bullock cart. It’s ludicrouslyover-priced.GREATER MANDALAYMahamuni Paya and the Stone Carvers' Areaare conveniently visited as part of a day tripto Amarapura, Inwa or Sagaing. There’s awhole series of monasteries in the area westof 85th street, between 35th and 41st Sts.Also very pleasant for random exploration isthe area somewhat further north, which iscovered in our cycling tour, p 211 .oMahamuni PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEmh;muni.ur;"(Map p 202 ) The star attraction of this massivecomplex is its highly venerated 13ft-highseated Buddha image, one of Myanmar’smost famous. Many locals believe that it is2000 years old. Over the centuries so muchvotary gold leaf has been applied by the(male) faithful that the figure is now entirelycovered in a knobbly 6in-thick layer of puregold. Entirely, that is, apart from his radiantlygleaming face, which is lovingly polisheddaily at 4am. The statue is a relativenewcomer to Mandalay. It was seized fromMrauk U (p 287 ) by the Burmese army ofKing Bodawpaya, who dragged it back herein 1784. The epic story of this feat is retold ina series of 1950s paintings in a picture galleryacross the pagoda’s inner courtyard tothe northeast. Bodawpaya also nabbed a collectionof Hindu-Buddhist Khmer bronzefigures, which were originally pilfered centuriesearlier from Angkor Wat, and reachedMrauk U by a series of other historical thefts.

Legend claims that many figures were melteddown in the 1880s to make cannons forMandalay’s defence against the British. Butsix rather battered figures remain, enshrinedin a drab concrete building on the northwestside of the inner courtyard. The most impressiveare two images of the Hindu god Shiva(one painfully emasculated) and another ofthe multi-headed elephant, Airavata. Localsenthusiastically rub parts of the image, believingthat any affliction on the correspondingpart of their own body will thus be cured.Mahamuni Paya is an endlessly popularplace of pilgrimage with thousands of faithfularriving daily, including countless familygroups bringing their colourfully robed kidsfor coming-of-age celebrations. The humanscene is often more memorable than themainly recent architecture – the original1784 temple burnt down a century later.Today the central Buddha sits beneath asoaring multi-tiered golden shrine roof. It isapproached through long concrete passagewayscrammed with stalls selling all mannerof religio-tourist trinkets. More interestingsets of Buddha images are sold in the sidearcade leading to the (young) bodhi tree.Near the compound’s northeast exit are amerrily kitsch clock tower and the odd littleMaha Buddhavamsa world Buddhismmuseum.oShwe In BinKyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYeráa='p='ekY;='"(Map p 202 ; 89th St, 37/38) If you wanted aplace for quiet meditation in Mandalay, youcouldn’t find a better spot than this beautifulteak monastery. Commissioned in 1895 by apair of wealthy Chinese jade merchants, thecentral building stands on tree-trunk polesand the interior has a soaring dark majesty.Balustrades and roof cornices are coveredWOMEN & MAHAMUNIOnly men are allowed in to apply goldleaf to Mahamuni’s torso. Femaledevotees kneel close by, but get only aglimpse of the crowned image whetherdirectly or on the surreally static TVmonitors. Some ladies believe thatdesegregation is overdue. One localgrandmother told us, ‘Lord Buddhanever said anything like this, and I’d somuch like to put gold leaf on the Buddhaimage myself!’in detailed engravings, a few of them mildlyhumorous. ‘Remove your shoes’ signs areplaced at the compound entrance, but youdon’t actually have to do so until reachingthe approach stairs.Gold-Pounders’ DistrictWORKSHOPSMost of the one-inch-square gold-leaf sheetsyou see worshippers putting onto shiningBuddha images are laboriously hammerpoundedfor hours by hand in one of Mandalay’s70 or so workshops, centred on 36thSt between 77th and 79th Sts. Many are inback-alley houses, but there are two souvenirshopshowrooms, King Galon (Map p 202 ; 36thSt, 77/78; h7am-7pm) and Golden Rose (Mapp 202 ; 36th St, 78/79; h7am-7pm), where English-speakingstaff patiently talk you throughthe process while muscle-bound gold-beatershammer out an insistent, thumping rhythm.It’s free and fascinating, and there’s no salespressure (though the gold leaf sheets do makepopular souvenirs – from K2000 for 10).Stone CarversWORKSHOPS(Map p 202 ) West of Mahamuni Paya thereare a whole series of workshops where youcan see slabs of rock being blasted, chippedand polished into Buddhas of all sizes.Souvenir carvings are also made, notablylittle marble elephants. You can spot severalworkshops along the Sagaing–Mandalay Rdwhen driving to Amarapura.Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung BUDDHIST MONASTERY(Map p 202 ; 39th St, 87/88) Across the creekfrom Shwe In Bin, this large monastery isn’tarchitecturally outstanding, but it does haveits own ‘Big Ben’ clock tower and is buildinga unique multi-storey concrete pavilion.More notably it has long been noted for thepolitically forthright views of its monks,albeit less so since the 2007 protests, afterwhich many younger monks were encouragedto return to their homes.Tingaza KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERY(Map p 202 ; 92nd St, 34/35) Somewhat dilapidated,this appealingly lived-in teak monasteryhas some carved wooden details. Acrossthe yard, a shaded open-air trio of sinuousBuddha figures have been weathered intoalmost abstract ghosts.Jade MarketMARKET(Map p 202 ; 87th St, 39/40; admission $1; h8am-5pm) This heaving grid of cramped walkwaysis a shoulder-to-shoulder mass of jade traders.It feels rather sketchy, but not all the deals209MANDALAY SIGHTS & AROUND SIGHTS

210MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYTHE WORLD’S BIGGESTBOOKAround the gilt-and-gold stupa of mid-19th-century Kuthodaw Paya (MahaLawka Marazein Paya; Map p 204 ; admission$10 combo ticket; h24hr), you’ll find729 text-inscribed marble slabs, eachhoused in its own small stupa and togetherpresenting the entire 15 booksof the Tripitaka. Another 1774 similarlyensconced marble slabs (collectedin 1913) ring the nearby SandamuniPaya (admission free; h8.30am-5pm)with Tripitaka commentaries. Collectivelythese slabs are often cited as the‘World’s Biggest Book’. Producing theKuthodaw set alone required an editorialcommittee of over 200. When King Mindonconvened the 5th Buddhist Synodhere he used a team of 2400 monks toread the book in a nonstop relay. It tookthem nearly six months to finish.are rip-offs. If you don’t know your jade anddon’t want to pay the $1 entry (not always enforced),it’s still interesting to see the cuttingand polishing of jade pieces that takes placejust outside along the market’s eastern flank.Or retreat to the octagonal Unison Teahouse(38th at 87th St; snacks K500-1500; h5am-1am) towatch more furtive-looking jade merchantsdiscussing deals over a cuppa.2 ActivitiesSwimmingThe Mandalay City and Mandalay Swan hotelsboth allow nonguests to use their attractiveoutdoor pool for $5 per day. Behind thezoo, the outdoor, Olympic-sized YatanabanSwimming Pool (Map p 204 ; admission K2000;h6am-6pm) is OK, but don’t use the divingboard or you’ll pike yourself into a fountain.At the base of the Shan Hills beyondYankin, 18-hole Yedagon Taung (www.myanmargolf.com/yedagontaung_golf_club.htm) is arguablythe most attractive of Mandalay’s threegolf courses. Shwe Mann Taung Golf Resort(Map p 204 ; %60570; 9-/18-holes $15/30, gear rental$10) is also lovely and sits handily close toMandalay Hill. There’s a driving range nearby.CCoursesDhamma MandalaMEDITATION CENTRE(%39694; www.mandala.dhamma.org; YaytagunHill) Spacious centre several miles fromMandalay offering regular 10-day Vipassanacourses (bilingual) on a donationbasis. Bookings usually close two weeksahead. Website gives schedules.zFestivals & EventsTraditional pwe (festivals), big and small,happen all the time – for weddings, birthdays,funerals and holidays, and in sidestreets and at pagodas. Ask a trishaw driverif they’ve passed one. Major festivals includethe following:» Mahamuni Paya pwe In earlyFebruary thousands of people from nearbydistricts make pilgrimages to Mahamuni(see p 208 ).» Mingun Nat Festival Pays homage tothe brother and sister of the Teak Tree,who drowned in the river while clingingto a trunk. Fifth to 10th days of the waxingmoon of Tabaung (February/March).» Sagaing Waso festival & Paleik FestivalThe Sagaing Waso festival and then the bigPaleik festival take place in the two weeksfollowing the Waso full moon (June–July).» Taungbyone Nat Pwe This massivefestival is held in August about 12 milesnorth of Mandalay. It honours the so-calledMuslim Brothers, Byat-wi and Byat-ta, twoof the most famous nat from the Bagan era.Celebrations culminate on the full moon ofWagaung.» Irinaku Festival (Yadanagu) A weekafter Taungbyone Nat Pwe worshippersmove to just south of Amarapura to honourthe brothers’ mother Popa Medaw.» Thadingyut Central Mandalay’s biggestfestival at Kyauktawgyi Paya (p 225 ) lastsseven days in early October.4SleepingAside from our listings, many more Chinesetypehotels in the blocks south of 27th Stoffer generally mediocre to poor midrangerooms for $20 to $30. None of the cheapestlocal guesthouses takes foreigners.Unless otherwise stated, all room ratesinclude breakfast and a bathroom with hotwater. However, in budget places, don’t besurprised if your air-con or hot water isn’tworking. Most midrange hotels have roomsthat are every bit as dowdy as budget hotels,but add a lift (handy in the heat given thatmost hotels are at least five storeys) and perhapsa doorperson or two. In the high-endbracket only a handful of choices are reallyappealing.

ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW POINTCAFEDISTANCE 1.5 MILESDURATION ONE TOTHREE HOURS0 300 m#e0 0.2 miles211Ayeyarwady River#8ÉÉ#ú AfternoonMarket#7#9É'€ÉThinga YarzarCanal#6ÉÉ#5#4Pinya St26th St(BayintnaungRd)91st St#390thStÉ88th St#289th St#1&~87thStEindawya StSHANDISTRICT86thSt Market85th St29th St84th StMANDALAY SLEEPING& AROUND SLEEPINGCycling TourWest MandalayIf central Mandalay’s fumes and trafficare getting you down, jump on a bike andpedal out into the web of back lanes to thewest. Random encounters are likely to bea highlight, but there’s plenty of interest atevery turn. This suggestion is just one ofmany possibilities.Start at the west exit of 1 EindawyaPaya, descend shady 89th St one block, thenveer right just before a 2 crocodile bridge.The bridge represents Ngamoe Yeik, the faithfulservant of tragic Burmese-chronicle heroMin Nandar, who made his last journey in thefriendly crocodile’s jaws.Take the east-west narrow lane betweenold monastery residences, some wooden,others colonial-style with pillar-mouldings. Atthe T-junction two blocks later, swing roundthe south side of 3 Khin Makantaik monastery,take a left at the T-junction and ridethrough interesting alleyways where4 locals turn sugar cane into jaggary(mornings only).Turn south on winding 91st St, possiblystopping to nibble a delicious coconut-filleddoughnut (K250) at typically unpretentious5 Aung Pyemoe (‘Who Dares Wins’)teahouse. Opposite, a mirror-fronted colonnadeleads into 6 Chanthaya Paya, whosemost precious Buddha image supposedlydates back to the reign of Indian emperorAshoka. The pagoda’s main golden stupais particularly photogenic in afternoon lightwhen seen reflected in the Thinga YarsarCanal from across a long teak footbridge.Pass two 7 ceramics shops, then turnwest at 26th St to reach the 8 Ayeyarwadyriverside where it’s endlessly fascinating towatch the plethora of cargo boats loadingand unloading.Enjoy the scene more serenely with a beerin hand from 9 View Point cafe.

212MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYWHITE ELEPHANTSLegend has it that before giving birth to her auspicious son, the Buddha’s mother dreamtof a white elephant presenting her with a lotus flower. In certain Buddhist countries thisled to the idea that rare albino elephants were sacred. Their holy status also meant theycould not be put to work.The white elephants were expensive to feed yet without any practical use. Westernobservers in 19th-century southeast Asia saw white elephants as the embodiment offinancial extravagance, and the term came to mean as much in standard English. However,in Burma/Myanmar and Siam/Thailand, the possession of white elephants remainsa potent symbol of kingship: you can view several of the specimens – which are actuallymore pinky brown than white – outside Yangon (see p 39 ) and in Nay Pyi Taw (see p 140 ).Certain Burmese monarchs referred to themselves as ‘golden-footed lord of the whiteelephant’. In 1885 one of King Thibaw’s white elephants died, an omen that superstitiousBurmese interpreted as foretelling the king’s imminent demise at the hands of a Britishinvasion force. And the Brits’ insensitive decision to drag the elephant’s carcass unceremoniouslyout of Mandalay Palace so horrified the pious city folk that it helped spark 10years of guerrilla resistance.NORTHERN MANDALAYoHotel by theRed Canal BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 204 ; %61177; www.hotelredcanal.com;22nd at 63rd St; r $135-186; aiWs) Thisintimate 25-room faux palace has morecharacter than most other Mandalay hotelsput together and comes complete withneo-traditional roof gables and a trickling‘stream’. The interior is dotted with Asianknick-knacks, there’s a floral welcome andcocktails are free to guests from 6pm to7pm. It’s tucked away on a dusty back roadbeside a small canal that does indeed turnred in some seasons. Credit cards are acceptedwith 10% commission, but only on24 hours’ notice.oPeacock Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$(Map p 204 ; %61429, 09 204 2059; www.pyinoolwin.info/peacock.htm; peacocklodge@gmail.com; No 5 60th St, 25/26; s/d $18/24; a) One ofMyanmar’s great homestay-style inns, thePeacock’s charming retired hosts treat manyguests like part of the family, maybe showingyou their fascinating old photos (‘granddad’was a British-era mayor of Mandalay). Thereare four spacious rooms in the main 1960shome overlooking a lotus-filled canal. There’salso a bungalow room off the mango-shadedgarden, where tables are set for a well-preparedbreakfast. In the cool season, threesimpler rooms without air-conditioning(single/double $12/14) are available in anattached bamboo house. It’s peaceful andcomfy without being posh. Great value. Gethere by taking 26th St east, then turningnorth at a sign to ‘Hotel Treasure’.Royal City Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 204 ; %31805, 28299; royalcity@winmaxmail.net.mm; 27th St, 76/77; standard s/d $20/25,superior $25/30; ai) One of the city’s mosttraveller-oriented midrange options, thistall, narrow 19-room tower has windows allround, simple but effective bathrooms and alift that works when electricity allows. Superiorrooms have bathtubs and stronger, quieterair-conditioning. Breakfast can be takenon a flower-decked outdoor/indoor roof garden,which is one of Mandalay’s finest.Sedona Mandalay HOTEL $$$(Map p 204 ; %36488; www.sedonahotels.com.sg;26th at 66th St; superior/deluxe $130/170; as)The large, open-plan lobby is as alluringas the sprawling outdoor pool behind, butrooms can feel a little ordinary for the price.The big plus in some deluxe rooms is theview staring straight down the eastern moattowards Mandalay Hill. You can pre-bookrooms online (sometimes discounted to $70on www.agoda.com), but in situ credit cardsare no longer accepted. The business is aSingaporean joint venture.Mandalay View Inn GUESTHOUSE $$(Map p 204 ; %61119; www.mandalayviewinn.com;66th St, 26/27; r $42-54; a) Converted froma two-floor 1960s villa, this 12-room guesthousefeels cosier and more personable thanmost hotels. Carved wooden panels enliventhe decor, but bathrooms are small and dated,there are a few signs of wear, and rooms

105 and 206 are windowless. You can use thesmall swimming pool at the co-owned Hotelby the Red Canal. Credit cards are acceptedby advance agreement (10% commission).Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel HOTEL $$$(Map p 204 ; %35688; www.mandalayhillresorthotel.com; 10th St; s/d from $120/144; as) ThisThai-owned resort hotel sits near the baseof Mandalay Hill set in a garden twinklingwith oriental umbrella-lamps. There’s alovely outdoor pool and the breathtakingspa area feels like an Indiana Jones treasuretrove. Overloaded lifts climb from the bejewelledlobby to nine storeys of rooms, whichconform to international resort-style specs,but with less flair.CENTRAL MANDALAYThe nearest thing to a ‘backpacker zone’ isa three-block area around the Nylon Hotelin Central Mandalay. Don’t imagine KhaoSan Rd. These are ordinary-looking streetswhere several cheaper hotels happen to belicensed for foreigners. There’s no bananapancakestrip, and only a few (mostly unspectacular)restaurants have menus inEnglish. Several hotels here can help youorganise transport, and outside you’ll oftenfind a motorbike and/or trishaw driver whospeaks some English. You might need tobook ahead to get the hotel you want, especiallyin December, January and April.Mandalay City Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 206 ; %61700, 61911; www.mandalaycityhotel.com; 26th St, 82/83; r $52-60; aiWs)Walking past you’d never guess that thisenticing palm-shaded oasis lay just behindall the dreary buildings of 26th St. The airy,cream-tiled lobby is entered across a fishpond, there’s an attractive outdoor pool(nonresidents $5) and rooms are neat andprofessionally maintained. Choose ‘gardenview’ rooms as the alternative rear roomshave frosted-glass windows with no viewwhatsoever.Royal Guest House BACKPACKER GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 206 ; %31400, 65697; 25th St, 82/83; s/d$10/15, with shared bathroom $5/10; a) Puttinga lot of effort into a little space, the Royalis the Mandalay cheapie that fills first. Glosspaints in multiple pastel colours, littlecarved panels and a frontage of pot-plantsand foliage, all help set the place apart fromits lacklustre budget competition, thoughbed quality is somewhat inconsistent andcheap rooms can be seriously small.Silver Star Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 206 ; %33394, 66786; www.silverstarhotelmandalay.com; 27th at 83rd St; s/d $25/28, cnrroom $27/30; ai) A vast step up on most ofMandalay’s dreary midrange hotels, the SilverStar isn’t particularly stylish but it’s spotlesslyclean with pine furniture and creamyyellow walls. The lift works and the rooms arebright, especially the corner rooms ($2 extra).ET Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 206 ; %65006, 66547; tmchomdy@mandalay.net.mm; No 129A 83rd St, 23/24; s/d $14/18,without bathroom $6/12; ai) The only thingextraterrestrial in the 27-room ET is theglow of the lone fluorescent bulb against themint-green walls in clean but dated rooms.However, beds are comfy, showers hot andthe unusually helpful staff understand travellers’needs. The air-conditioning mighteven work once in a while. On the roof area few cheaper rooms and a couple of deckchairs in which guests can sun themselves.Nylon Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 206 ; %33460; 25th at 83rd St; s/d withfan $7/12, with air-con $10/15; ai) Mandalay’slong-term backpacker standby is ano-nonsense 25-room, five-floor tower (nolift). Decently tiled rooms come with solarheatedshowers and are more likely to havewindows than rooms at the similarly pricedGarden Hotel next door.Classic Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 206 ; %32841, 61891; 23rd St, 83/84; s/d$9/15; a) Don’t be fooled by the name or themodernist facade. Rooms here are simple,mainly windowless boxes with little charmbeyond their price and location.Sabai Phyu Hotel BACKPACKER HOTEL $(Map p 206 ; %32297, 39997; 81st St, 25/26; s/d$10/13, shared bathroom $6/10; a) Friendlyservice and a rooftop area with a few sunnylounger-chairs make up for seriously lacklustrerooms, which are most acceptable onthe 3rd floor. The 1st-floor cheapies are padlockedprison cells, which won’t put anyonein a holiday mood.AD 1 Hotel BACKPACKER HOTEL $(Map p 206 ; %34505; Eindawya Rd, 87/88; s/d$8/16, with air-con $12/24; a) Simple, functionalrooms just off vibrant ‘onion marketstreet’, hidden in the approach lane toEindawya Pagoda. Beware if asking a taxi totake you here – to local ears ‘AD 1’ soundsvery much like ‘81’ (ie 81st St).213MANDALAY SLEEPING& AROUND SLEEPING

214MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYRIVER BEDSIf you want to sleep on a river boat, there are several upmarket choices.Amara (www.amaragroup.net/de/river/river-de) Two seven-cabin teak boats, traditionallystyled but recently built, make three-night cruises to Bagan (Amara I s/d/full-charter€720/980/4480, Amara II €950/1360/6550) and six-night trips between Mandalay andBhamo (Amara I €1620/2240/11200, Amara II €2200/2980/14,900).GMT (%01 392552; www.myanmartravelagent.com; 1st fl, 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Yangon) Tailormadeprivate live-aboard cruises for couples or small groups in relatively simple convertedlocal boats, with chef and crew. This is great for stopping off at minor riverside villages andfor spotting ultra-rare Irrawaddy dolphins on the Bhamo–Mandalay trip ($1600 per personfor a five-day trip, minimum two passengers). Not usually available Mandalay–Bagan.Pandaw (www.pandaw1947.com) A 60-year-old riverboat with teak and ironwood floorsrefitted into an upmarket 16-berth cruiser.Road to Mandalay (Map p 200 ; www.orient-express.com/web/rtm/road_to_mandalay.jsp)This 43-berth liner is huge by Ayeyarwady standards and includes an onboard swimmingpool and wellness centre. In tourist season it does mostly Bagan–Mandalay, but inmidsummer there are Bhamo trips too. Be aware that its start/end point is at Shwegyet(Golden Fowl) jetty near Sagaing Bridge, so visiting Mandalay requires a one-hour drive,and the ‘cruise’ to Mingun is on a different boat – something you could have easily organisedfor yourself at a fraction of the cost.GREATER MANDALAYoAyarwaddy River View Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %72373; ayarwaddyriverviewhotel@gmail.com; Strand Rd, 22/23; d $30-42, ste $81;aiW) Brand new in March 2011, this hotelhas 56 tasteful and restrained rooms.They’re partly panelled in wood and allare sizeable with good, if fashion-neutral,bathrooms. Price (four categories) dependson size and view. And what a view! Frontfacingrooms look across the river towardsdistant Mingun, rear-upper ones overlook thecity, Mandalay Hill and the Shan uplands. Enjoythe lot, 360 degrees, from the rooftop bar.Rupar Mandalar BOUTIQUE RESORT $$$(off Map p 202 ; %61555; www.ruparmandalarresort.com; No A-15 53rd St at 30th St; d/ste $200/600;aiWs) This stunning 16-room complexset in tropical foliage melds timeless neotraditionalfeatures with modern designflair in indulgent teak rooms. Even the gymhas teak walls. The suites are wonderful forfamilies, sleeping six in three fully equippedensuite sub-bedrooms, which share two extensivelounges and a kitchenette. The twoswimming pools are inviting, and guestsqualify for a free 15-minute Thai massagein the spa. The main downside is the oddlocation way out on Mandalay’s eastern outskirtsamid incongruously counterpointednouveau riche houses, stagnant ponds andlight industrial wreckage.Hotel Mandalay HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %71582; 78th St, 37/38; d $35-50, ste$60-120; aWs) A seven-storey businessstylehotel whose well-tended rooms featuregoldfish-bowl wash basins and heart-shapedwall lamps. Perks include indoor swimmingpool, gym, buffet breakfast and free in-roomwi-fi. Next door is City Mart supermarket, andthere’s an array of dining possibilities nearby.Golden Mandalay HOTEL $$(Map p200 ; %61488, 09 680 6414; http://homepage.mac.com/hr_weber/golden_mandalay/index.html; 19th St at Ye Zarni Rd; s/d $17/23;a) This homely cluster of bungalow-stylerooms is attractively set amid palms, andthere’s a small dining terrace that’s perchedabove a canal. Rooms are large, and thoughcarpets are rough, there’s plenty of characterin the form of bamboo patchworkdesigns and pictures. Golden Mandalay iseasy to miss. It's unsigned just east of PoliceStation No 1 before 19th St crosses thecanal. Book ahead.Great Wall Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 202 ; %68460; No 901 78th St, 42/TheikPan; d $40-50; a) A six-floor tower whosefair-value rooms have power showers, partlywood-panelled walls and plastic covers stillprotecting the upholstery. Mostly aimed atChinese visitors. The $40 rooms suffer thunderingroad noise.

5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dining scene lacks the charm andvariety of Yangon’s or even Pyin Oo Lwin’s, butthere are several new semi-stylish cafes and afew faithful old standbys. Surprisingly, few ofthese are near the main downtown travellerarea. There’s a sprinkling of decent if touristcentricoptions towards the southeast eastcorner of the palace moat. Things are muchlivelier south of the centre, notably down 78thSt (university district around the Theik Pan Stcrossing), along 73rd St (31st to 35th St) andspread more thinly beside Kandawgyi Lake.NORTHERN MANDALAYoToo Too Restaurant BURMESE $(Map p 204 ; No 79 27th St, 74/75; meals from K2500;h10am-8.30pm) Too Too’s dining area is anuninteresting box room hidden away in a sidealley, but many consider it the place in Mandalayfor home-style local fare. Meals are pickedfrom a buffet-like spread, but the set pricecovers only one main curry, one side dish, riceand soup. Extras cost K500 to K1000.Ko’s Kitchen THAI $$(Map p 204 ; %31265; 80th at 19th St; soups & dishesK3560-5000, snacks K2500, rice K600; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm; aE) Ko’s cooks a wideselection of Thai dishes, including Lao/north Thai chilli-dips and the usual curriesand noodles, plus a particularly tasty crispycatfish salad with mango and cashews(K4000). It’s in an art deco building, but thepeach-coloured interior is starting to look alittle tired, and dirty glass dividers rather defeatthe point of a show kitchen.BBB WESTERN $$(Map p 204 ; %73525; 76th St, 26/27; meals K5500-7250, burgers K2750, beer K1650; h9am-10pm; E)Tablecloths, attentive waiters and a pitchedwooden ceiling create the feel of an oldworldski-lodge. Food includes many fishand seafood options, which are competentand elegantly presented without being trulygastronomic. Decent Burmese red winecosts K2500 per glass.Green Elephant BURMESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61237; 27th St 64/65; mains/extras/rice6000/2400/1200, set menu per personK8000; h8.30am-3pm & 5-9.30pm; aE) Consistentlyrecommended for regional cuisine.A few tables are within a Pyin Oo Lwin-stylecolonial-era building full of period relics.Others spill out into a bamboo-tufted gardenand a bigger pavilion for group dining.Spice Garden INDIAN $$(Map p 206 ; %61177; Hotel on the Red Canal, 22ndSt at 63rd; mains $3-8, beer $4; h6am-10.30pm;E) Spread over two storeys this luminouslybright, wooden-framed restaurant serves upsome of Mandalay’s most authentic Indianfood, along with set-menu European andBurmese dinners ($10 to $15). Fair value,though the drinks can get pricey. Appealinggarden seating also available.Café City WESTERN $$(Map p 206 ; %61237; East Moat Rd 20/22; mealsK5500-6600, burgers K2200, draught beer K1200;h9am-10.30pm; E) Neon and old enamelsigns add to the feeling of a comfortable, latter-dayAmerican diner. Food choice (steaks,pizza, English triangular sandwiches) supportsthe idea, but there’s plenty that’s moreimaginative including the delicious, verygenerous coconut basted fish kebabs. Goodcoffee too (espresso K1000). It’s popular withwealthy locals on a casual family outing.Marie-Min VEGETARIAN $$(Map p 206 ; off 27th St, 74/75; dishes K1300-2000,rice K300; h8.30am-9pm, closed Jun; E) Onan upper balcony above an antiques shopon a residential alley, the friendly Englishspeakingowners have tailored a short menuto their stated principles: ‘Be kind to animalsby not eating them.’ Highlights includeall-day breakfasts, guacamole, veg curry,stomach-safe lassis (K1500) and deliciousaubergine dip. If you’re hungry, you’ll probablyneed to order two dishes.Peacock Lodge BURMESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61429; see p 204 ; set dinner K8000;hby arrangement) Real home-cooked Burmesemeals cooked to order are servedbeneath giant parasols in the guesthouse’slovely peaceful garden. However, you’ll needto order a day in advance.A Little Bit of Mandalay BURMESE, CHINESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61295; 65th St 27/28; mains K4000-5000, rice K1000, set menu per person K9000, beerK3500; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm; E) Woodenbucket-lamps, back-lit parasols and plinkinglocal harp melodies bring atmosphere to thistourist-oriented pavilion restaurant with abamboo-weave roof. Bringing your own wineincurs a modest K2000 corkage charge.CENTRAL MANDALAYV Café/Skybar INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 206 ; 25th St at 80th St; mains/burgersK5000/2000, espresso/draught beer/cocktails215MANDALAY EATING & AROUND & DRINKINGEATING & DRINKING

216MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYDINING DOWNTOWNIn the downtown traveller zone there’s a disappointing lack of inspirational dining. Thefollowing reviews offer a selection of places to fill the stomach if you lack the transport tohead further afield. But don’t expect anything special. For something more interesting,get on your bike. And don’t forget a head torch for the journey home!Nay (Map p 206 ; 27th at 82nd St; h5-11.30pm) and Sri Karaweik (Map p 206 ; 23rd at 81stSt; h5pm-1am) are roadside tables that appear only in the evenings, but keep servingcurry snacks (K250-1000) with fresh chapattis (K150 each) unusually late. Nylon IceCream Bar (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; ice cream K500-1500, beer K1700; h8am-10pm) is anotherultra-simple pavement-table meeting place, but it opens all day and offers shakes,lassis and beer, as well as fully perfumed durian ice cream.Crusty shop-restaurant Mann (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; dishes K1500-2000, riceK300, beer K1600; h10am-10pm) has concrete floors, beer posters and scraggy huntingtrophies, and remains an eternally popular meeting place for foreigners, due more to itslocation than its average Chinese fare.Bakeries Gold Medal (Map p 206 ; 30th St 81/82) and SB (Map p 206 ; 80th St at 31st St)sell bagged-up super-soft bread and sticky cakes in Japanese style.Pyi Taw Win (Map p 206 ; 81st St 24/25; BBQ items K200-1800; h8am-10.30pm) is astandard but central beer station for barbecues, cold draught beer (K600) and PremierLeague football (soccer).There’s a gaggle of Shan restaurants around the 84th/23rd St corner where Karaweik(Map p 206 ) teashop (unsigned in English) whips up Shan noodles (K600) andsemi-sweet tandoori-naan bread (K100), which is ideal for tea-dipping. Golden Shan(Map p 206 ; buffet K3000) has an all-you-can-eat buffet, while Lashio Lay (Map p 206 ; perplate K500-900, rice K300) offers a pre-cooked spread.NVC (Map p 206 ; Nepali Food; 81st St, 26/27; meals K1000-2000; h8am-9pm) serves adaily changing K2000 pure-veg Nepali thali (multi-curry meal) in a bare concrete box ofa shop. No eggs, no alcohol.For fresh veg, head to the produce market (Map p 206 ; 86th St, 26/28).K800/1000/3000; h9am-10.30pm; aE) Themost central of Mandalay’s new breed ofair-conditioned Western cafe-bars, V offerswicker-frame sofa seating and semisuccessfulattempts at 1970s decor. Foodoptions include pasta, Mexican stir-fry, fishdishes, tempura, burgers and pizza. Whenopen, the rooftop bar has views across thewalled fort towards distant Mandalay Hill.GREATER MANDALAYMya Nandar BURMESE, CHINESE $$(Map p200 ; %66110; Strand Rd, 26/35; mainsK1600-4000; h9am-11pm; E) The food cansometimes be a little bland, but the riverviews from the back-terrace tables are hardto beat. You’ll need to book if dining duringthe free 7.30pm puppet show (in the biggerwedding-style main hall).View Point BAR $(Map p 202 ; Strand Rd; draught beer K600; h9am-11pm) The name doesn’t lie. Whether sunsetwatchingor spying distant Mingun by day,the river views to the west are magnificent,while to the south there’s the endlessly fascinatingmayhem of loading and unloadingriverboats. From 7pm loud karaoke changesthe atmosphere completely. Open air, verylimited food.JJ Café 2 BAR $$(Map p 202 ; 38th St at 78th St; cocktails/draught beerK2800/1200, meals K3800-5000; h9am-10.30pm;aE) Boldly modern angular planes counterpointwicker lounge chairs and traditionalcarved figurines in this stylish Mandalay retreat.The low-lit ground floor has live musicfrom 7pm daily except Saturday. Upstairs isbrighter, calmer and better for conversation.Uncle Chan’s BEER STATION $(Map p 202 ; 35th St, 72/73; barbecue items K300-1800; draught beer K600; h8am-10pm) A cutabove most typical beer-barns and less totallymale-dominated, there’s a wide rangeof eating possibilities here, but the prime attractionsare the polar-cold brews in superfrostymugs. Stretching several blocks up73rd St from here are several equally livelyeating and drinking spots.

Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ; 36th St, 80/81; barbecue items K300-1600; draught beer K600; h9am-10pm) Althoughit looks like any normal beer station, thestuffed grilled fish is as good as you’ll findanywhere – almost boneless and with agreat tamarind dipping sauce. If you’re lookingfor a suaver option, try Sylvia Cafe acrossthe road.Shwe War Thar THAI, HALAL $$(Map p 202 ; 82th St 38/39; meals K2500, beerK2500; h10am-9pm) Wooden booth seats onthe ground floor, a karaoke lounge upstairsand a rooftop ‘coffee garden’ that’s openfrom 5pm.Super One BEER STATION $(Map p 202 ; 80th St at 38th; draught beer K400;h8.30am-9.30pm) This cheap, cheerful andessentially male-only place is handily locatedfor quaffing draft Spirulina beer whilewaiting for the Moustache Brothers’ performanceto start. Minimal food.KANDAWGYI LAKEKandawgyi Pat Rd forms a causeway acrosslarge Kandawgyi Lake, starting from theSagaing–Mandalay road around 900ydsouthwest of Mahamuni Temple. Dottedalong it you’ll find a restaurant shaped like aroyal boat and a scattering of cafes in variousprice ranges. It all adds up to an alternativenightlife centre, but for visitors it’s handiestas a refreshment stop when heading homefrom Amarapura or Sagaing, especially viathe quieter riverside route.Coffee Tower CAFE $$(Map p 200 ; Kandawgyi Pat Rd; mains K2500-4500,juice K700-1200; h2pm-2am) An open-air cafeon a stilt pier over the waters, ideal for a goodespresso (K700), iced latte (K1500) or freshstrawberry shake (K1000). Simple yet popularand with decent food. Open very late.Smart Garden BURMESE $$(Map p 200 ; Kandawgyi Pat Rd; mains K3000-6000,beer K2000) Attractive thatched pavilions in alakeside garden, but no English spoken andno draught beer.Emperor BEER STATION $(Map p 200 ; Kandawgyi Pat Rd at 85th St; draughtbeer K1000) This simple beer station comesto life after dark when the trees are beautifullylit with orange paper lanterns. Snookertables available; live acoustic music setsfrom around 7pm.3EntertainmentA-nyeintA-nyeint is a form of vaudeville folk operawith dance, music, jokes and silly walks.Moustache BrothersCOMEDY(Map p 202 ; 39th St, 80/81; donation K8000;h8.30pm) Officially banned but presentlytolerated, this world-famous a-nyeint troupehas suffered a string of prison sentences fortheir jokes and rants against the Myanmargovernment. These days the shows includeslightly indulgent self-parody, but they remainone of Mandalay’s greatest talking points forWestern visitors. See boxed text, p 218 .Dance, Music & Puppet ShowsEvening shows, professionally performedbut aimed squarely at tourist audiences,have helped rekindle interest in Burmesetraditional dance and puppetry. The mostauthentic performances are set to a sixpiece‘orchestra’ led by a distinctively wailinghneh (an oboe-like instrument). Theother musicians play gamelan-style gongarrangements and percussion, notably acircle of tuned mini-drums known as a saiwai.As well as those listed below, you cansee a selection of performances during dinnershows at several upmarket hotels, andthere’s a free puppet show at Mya Nandarriverside restaurant.Mandalay MarionettesPUPPET SHOW(Map p 204 ; www.mandalaymarionettes.com; 66thSt, 26/27; admission K10,000; h8.30pm) On atiny stage, colourful marionettes expressivelyrecreate tales based on the Buddhist Jatakaand Yamazat (Ramayana), with occasionalbursts of visual humour. Read the leaflet foran overview of what you’re about to see. Occasionallya sub-curtain is lifted so that youcan briefly admire the skill of the puppeteers’deft hand movements. The troupe has travelledand performed internationally.Mintha TheaterDANCE(Map p 204 ; www.mintheater.com; 27th St, 65/66;admission K8000; h8.30pm Jul-Mar) Colourfullycostumed dancers give human form tomany of the scenes you may have seen depictedby puppets at Mandalay Marionettes.Explanations here are somewhat clearer, butthe show lacks the flashes of humour. Seeingboth is worthwhile if you can spare a secondevening. Some shows include a remarkable(if entirely discordant) display of cane-ballskills as an off-beat extra.217MANDALAY ENTERTAINMENT& AROUND ENTERTAINMENT

218MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYMOUSTACHE BROTHERS – FROM SLAPSTICK TO SATIREIn Myanmar jokes can get you into serious trouble, as the internationally celebrated MoustacheBrothers found out the hard way. In 1996 they performed at an Independence Daycelebration at Aung San Suu Kyi’s Yangon compound, telling politically tinged jokes aboutMyanmar generals. For two of the three ‘brothers’ (Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw), the result wasarrest and seven years’ hard labour. In 1997 several Hollywood comedians (including RobReiner and political comedian Bill Maher) wrote to the government in protest. Meanwhile,the third brother, Lu Maw, kept the Mandalay show going with the help of his wife.After their release in 2002, the reunited Moustache Brothers remained ‘blacklisted’from playing at outside events (marriages, funerals, festivals and so on). However, theyplayed a series of gala performances at home attended – inevitably – by governmentagents with video cameras. The regional commander soon summoned Par Par Lay andtold him not to perform at home anymore. When he got home, some Westerners hadalready gathered for that night’s show, and he and his family imaginatively decided toperform without costumes and makeup. Thus the show went on for the tourists (and the‘KGB’ people – Lu Maw’s nickname for Myanmar’s military intelligence). They explainedthey were merely ‘demonstrating’ a performance, since they couldn’t do a ‘real’ one withoutcostumes. Somehow, it worked.‘They’ve ordered us to stop six times’, Lu Maw told us. ‘It goes in one ear and out theother. That’s our job!’Some costumes have since returned, but the job has become exclusively for foreigners:locals who attended would probably be followed by police, but tourists experience nobacklash. Following the September 2007 demonstrations, Par Par Lay suffered anothermonth in jail, but the shows have never stopped: they’re still performed in a single roomwith just a dozen or so plastic chairs a yard away from the performers.The Show TodayThe only English-speaker, Lu Maw, kneels over an antique microphone stand and usesword-boards to help listeners decipher his thick accent. The hour-long show slithersbetween slapstick, political satire, Myanmar history, traditional dance and how to tie upyour longyi. Plenty of material also highlights the troupe’s notoriety, from Lu Maw’s wifeas cover star of an ageing Lonely Planet guide to a video clip from the film About a Boy,in which Hugh Grant’s character mentions Par Par Lay. Par Par Lay promptly appears onstage wearing handcuffs – a cameo role to which the former troupe leader has been relegatedby his lack of English. The players are undoubtedly courageous, but not all visitorsare bowled over by the show. Some might even agree with Lu Maw’s jocular taunt: ‘Doshow for tourist very easy, just one hour. I rip you off, you are sitting duck’. Some ‘jokes’are little more than smirking insults, wife-baiting or frequently repeated colloquialisms.And it all culminates with a shameless T-shirt sales drive. But love it or loathe it, this is aunique experience and a Mandalay classic.NightlifeMandalay has no nightclubs, so if localssuggest ‘dancing’ they probably mean witnessinga ‘model show’ – a popular localentertainment where young ladies sing toa karaoke-style recorded backing tape accompaniedby the clapping and whoopingof waiters who try to get the mood upbeat.Generally there’s no cover charge beyondbeer and food costs. Examples include LakeView (Map p200 ) beside Kandawgyi Lake andYatanaban Restaurant (Map p 204 ; draughtbeer K800) beside Yatanaban swimming pool,near Mandalay Hill Resort. Both also havekaraoke; model shows start around 7.30pm.7 ShoppingBig shopping malls are mushrooming up on78th St near the train station.Arts & CraftsMandalay is a major crafts centre, and probablythe best place in the country for traditionalpuppets and hand-woven embroideredtapestries. Beware: items may be scuffed upor weathered to look much older than theyare. Handicraft places will generally have to

pay commissions to drivers or guides, so pricesmay prove better if you visit alone.Handicraft specialists include Aurora(Map p 202 ; 78th St, 35/36), Garuda (Map p 204 ;80th St at 15th), Soe Moe (Map p 202 ; 36th St,77/78) and Sunflower (Map p 204 ; Marie-Min,27th St, 74/75). There are numerous silkworkshops and a couple more handicraftemporia along main Sagaing road in Amarapura(p 224 ). Puppets are sold at MoustacheBrothers and Mandalay Marionettes.Good-value items can be found at the stonecarvers’ workshops (p 209 ), and there areseveral interesting shops on 36th St besidethe gold-leaf-pounding workshops (p 209 ).Shwe PatheinSOUVENIRS(Map p 202 ; No 141 36th St, 77/78; h8am-5pm) SellsPathein-style parasols (K4000 to K8000) andbark animal portraits (from K4000).RockySOUVENIRS(Map p 204 ; Sein Win Myint; 27th St, 62/63; h8am-9pm) Various handicrafts including stuffed‘gold-thread’ tapestries, plus gems and jade.Sut NgaiFABRIC(Map p 206 ; 33rd St, 82/83) Sells Kachin fabricsand costumes, aimed mainly at Kachinsthemselves rather than tourists.MarketsZeigyoMARKET(Map p 206 ; 84th St, 26/28) This downtownmarket offers wall-to-wall stands selling justabout everything Myanmar. The Chinesecommunist-style architecture dates from theearly 1990s after a disastrous 1988 fire destroyedan earlier model. This market shouldbe replaced in a few years by a vast 25-storeytower mall, currently under construction.Night marketMARKET(Map p 206 ; 84th St, 26/29) Vendors sellingfood, music, army hats and clothes importedfrom China block off the street as dusk approaches– a worthy wander.8InformationInternet AccessInternet cafes are fairly common along 27th Stand are scattered widely around the city centre,but most are appallingly slow.Acme-Net (Map p 206 ; 26th St, 78/79; per hrK500; h9am-9pm) Better connection thanmost and adept with proxy servers.Dream Land (Map p 204 ; 27th St, 72/73; per hrK400; h9.30am-11pm; a) Good connectionand AC, free drinking water.MoneyEXCHANGE Most guesthouses will change pristineUS$ cash, but for rates approaching Yangonlevels, ask at gold shops such as Shwe HinnThar (26th St 84/85; h10am-4pm), beside theclock tower, or travel agencies such as SevenDiamond Express (Map p 206 ; %22365; 32ndSt, 82/83). Marie-Min vegetarian restaurantalso offers decent rates.CREDIT CARDS Nowhere in Mandalay givescash advances. If you’re out of dollars and needa room, the Mandalay View Inn and the Hotel bythe Red Canal accept credit cards at 10% commissionif you pay one day ahead.PostDHL (Hotel Mandalay, 78th St, 37/38;h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pmSat) Costs from $80 for the cheapestdocument-only package to Europe.Main post office (Map p 206 ; 22nd St, 80/81;h10.30am-4pm)TelephoneLocal/national calls cost K100/200 per minutefrom PCO street stands. Royal Guest House andRoyal City Hotel both offer international calls for$2 per minute.CTT Telephone Office (Map p 206 ; 25th St,80/81; calls to Europe/Australasia/NorthAmerica per min $4/4/5; h7am-8.30pm)Anonymous-looking room for expensive internationalcalls.Tourist Information & Travel AgenciesDaw San San Aye (Map p 206 ; %31799; HotelDynasty, 81st St, 24/25; h7.30am-8pm) Veryobliging, fair-priced air-ticket sales booth.Seven Diamond (Map p206 ; %30128, 72828;82nd St, 26/27; h8am-9pm) Helpful agency thatcan pre-book flights by email request, changemoney at good rates and organise airport-boundshared taxis. Henry speaks great English.M T T (Map p 204 ; %60356; 68th at 27th St;h9am-5pm) The government-run travelcompany doubles as tourist office selling citymaps (K200) as well as transport tickets andpermit-needing tours. See p 21 for a discussionof the implications of using governmentrunagencies and services such as MTT andMyanma Airways.WebsitesLonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/myanmar-burma/mandalay) Head here for planningadvice, author recommendations, travellerreviews and insider tips.8Getting There & AwaySchedules and prices change frequently.219MANDALAY 8 SHOPPING& AROUND 8

220MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYAirA daunting 28-mile drive south of the centre,Mandalay’s huge, gleaming airport is nominallyinternational, thanks to two daily fl ights to Kunming,China. All other services are domestic.The government-run Myanma Airways (MA;Map p 206 ; %36221, 87458; 81st St, 25/26;h9am-2pm) has a lacklustre reputation andsells its own tickets directly, generally only possibleone day ahead. Use an agency for Air Mandalay(AM), Asian Wings (AW), Bagan Air (BA)or Air Kanbawza (AK) – the latter two airlinesowned by Tay Za (p 26 ) and Aung Ko Win (p 373 )respectively.BoatUnless otherwise stated, all boat services listedstart from or near Gawein Jetty (Strand Rd at35th St), the exact point varying somewhat accordingto river levels.BAGANFor a readers’ report of a boat ride to Bagan, seep 120 . There are several options:GOVERNMENT SLOW BOAT (deck/cabin$12/33) Departs at 5.30am Wednesday andSunday, taking 13 to 15 hours when water levelsare OK. Should you beach on a sandbank (quitepossible in February and March) it might takea day longer. Buy tickets one day before sailingat IWT (Map p 200 ; %36035; 35th St; hsales10am-2pm). See p 21 .MALIKHA 2 ($36, nine hours) A private expressboat with view deck. It departs 7am on certaindays in season. Frequency varies widely from 24trips a month in January to barely one per weekin March. Book ahead through hotels, agents orMalikha Travels (%72279; www.malikha-rivercruise.com; 26th St, 82/83)SHWEI KENNERY ($33, nine hours) Similar toMalikha 2, but runs to Bagan only a few times perseason. See p 221 .CRUISE BOATS River lovers can opt for oneof several sleep-aboard tours (see boxed text,p 214 ). These tend to be very pricey and are soldas part of a package. Read very carefully what’son offer. Some packages are as long as fi ve days,four nights, but as the journey itself takes only afew hours, such packages may simply be usingthe boat as a hotel while doing over-priced landbasedtours. Is that really what you want?KATHA & BHAMOGOVERNMENT FERRY ITW ferries to Bhamo(deck/cabin $9/54, three to fi ve days) depart at6am on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. Usefulstops en route include Kyaukmyaung ($4, 11 to15 hours) and Katha (deck/cabin $7/42, at leasttwo full days). Carefully read the boxed text onp 239 before jumping aboard. Tickets are soldon departure. Double-check schedules with IWT(Map p 202 ; %36035; 35th St). See also p 21 .FAST BOAT Departures are at 5am once everytwo days to Katha (K45,000, around 14 hours),where you’d have to change boats for Bhamo.MANDALAY AIR ROUTESSample rates with peak-season schedulesDESTINATION PRICE $ FREQUENCY AIRLINESBhamo45Thu, SunMAHeho 42 several daily AM, AW, BA, AKHomalin 55 Tue MA (permits required)Kalay(myo)85Mon, FriAWKengtung 95 Sat (via Tachilek)TueBAMAKhamti 70 Sun MA (permits required)Kunming2812 dailyChina EasternLashio 70 irregular AWMyitkyina 95Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, SunMon, Wed, Fri, SatBA70MANyaung U (Bagan)42dailyAM, AK, BAPutao 105 Tue, Sun BA (permits required)Tachileik 9565dailyThu, SatBAMAYangon 92 several daily AM, AW, BA

WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Mandalay has three bus stations:» Thiri Mandalar bus station (Map p 202 ; 89th St, 22/24) Relatively central. Buses forMonywa, Shwebo and Bhamo (though foreigners can’t use the latter).» Pyi Gyi Myat Shin bus station (off Map p 202 ; 60th St 35/37) Two miles east of centre.Buses for Hsipaw, Lashio and Mu-se.» Main (Kwe Se Kan) bus station Six miles south of centre, this serves all other majordestinations, including Yangon, Bagan, Kalaw and Taunggyi. Allow 45 minutes for theK3000/5000 motorbike/blue-taxi ride to get to the bus station from downtown andplenty more time to find the right bus in the mayhem.Buying TicketsPre-booking long-distance bus tickets is wise. The easiest way to do that is through yourhotel, but check how much commission is charged (typically K350 to K1500). Bus companieseach have their own city-centre ticket office: booking there saves you going all the wayto the bus station twice. If you’re trying to save money, this will be the best deal, especiallyif you use a company that provides a ‘ferry’ (minibus transfer to the bus station), saving youthe taxi/motorbike fare. But double-check ferry conditions – some will leave you far toomuch (or occasionally too little) connecting time to justify the financial saving. Many suchagents are on 32nd St. Shwe Mann Thu (Map p 206 ; %22365; 32nd St, 82/83) has a particularlywide choice of destinations and has several ‘ferries’ costing K500 per head (last at 3.30pm).Buy tickets one day ahead from Shwe Eyama(%09 680 0243; Strand Rd). The booth’s signis in Burmese, but a second sign above it saysPanlon Co Ltd in English. Nearby, MGRG also advertisea Mandalay–Katha–Bhamo service, butthat wasn’t operating at the time of research.SHWEI KENNERY Higher-standard expressboat aimed at the tourist market. Enquire forschedules and prices at Sun Far Travel & Tours(Map p204 ; %69712; No H, 30th St, 77/78;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun).CRUISES Several of the Bagan cruise operators(p 214 ) also do occasional Bhamo–Mandalay trips.MINGUNBoats start at 9am from Mayan Chan Jetty.See p 231 .PYAYGovernment ferries (deck/cabin $10/20; seep 21 ) depart Tuesday and Saturday at 5.30amtaking around four days. Bring mat and sleepinggear. Tickets sold on board at departure.Double check schedules with IWT (Map p 202 ;%36035; 35th St).Bus & Shared TaxiTwo of Mandalay’s three highway bus stations areinfuriatingly distant from the city centre. Sharedtaxis, where available, aren’t quite as expensiveas they might seem at fi rst glance because mostoffer door-to-door (or at least centre-to-centre)service, saving expensive taxi rides to/from busstations at either end of your journey.BAGANJourney time is around eight hours from themain bus station. Choice is limited.Shwe Mann Thu (Map p 206 ; %22365; 32nd St,82/83) has buses at 8am (K9000) and 4.30pm(K8000), with ‘ferries’ to the bus station departingtheir offi ce at 7am and 3pm.Nyuang U Mann has buses without air-con at8.30am and 9pm (K8500, eight hours) as a lastresort.HSIPAW, LASHIO & MU-SEBUS Buses use the Pyi Gyi Myat Shin busstation (off Map p 202 ; 60th St 35/37), withcentral agencies clustered on 83rd St, 22/23,but relatively few companies will accept foreignerson buses bound for Lashio or beyond. Mostbuses leave between 5.30am and 6.30am, but ifyou sleep in, there are still two Hsipaw-specifi cbuses departing at 3pm operated by Ye Shinand Duhtawadi (Map p 206 ; %61938; 31st St,81/82). Duhtawadi ticket holders can get a connectingtransfer from the city centre offi ce to thebus station 1½ hours before bus departure time.SHARED TAXI Duhtawadi also organisesshared taxis to Hsipaw (K15,000, fi ve to sixhours), departing from their city offi ce mostdays around 8.30am. If there is no Hsipaw car,take one bound for Lashio, operated by Shwe LiOo (Map p 206 ; %33280; 32nd St, 81/80) back/front seat K15,000/17,000 at 6.30am, 8am and9am and Shwe Li Shan (Map p 206 ; 84th St,22/23) back/front K18,000/21,000 when full.MANDALAY 8 GETTING & AROUND THERE 8 & AWAY

222MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYKALAW & TAUNGGYI (FOR INLE LAKE)BUS Almost all buses to Taunggyi (K10,000to K12,000, around 11 hours) run overnight viaKalaw and the Inle Lake junction. Operatorsinclude the following:» Shwe Taung Yo (Map p 206 ; %09 5311918; 32ndSt, 82/83) At 6pm (K12,000 with 4pm transfer).» Taung Paw Thar (Map p 206 ; %09 91028717;32nd St, 81/82) At 6.30pm (K12,000 with 4pmtransfer).» Shwe Mann Thu (Map p 206 ; %22365; 32nd St,82/83) At 7.30pm (K10,000, no well-timed transfer).» Chandar Aung (Map p 206 ; 24th St, 81/82)Operates the only day-time bus (no airconditioning),but currently refuses to carryforeigners.SHARED TAXI The only public-transport optionfor foreigners that isn’t overnight is a sharedtaxi from Aung Yedana (%24850; 25th St,81/82) leaving for Taunggyi (front/back seatK27,000/25,000) around 8am. Price includespick-up from any central Mandalay hotel. AddK8000 to be dropped off in Nyaungshwe.KYAUKMEYedena (Map p 206 ; %36196; 81st St, 31/32)Has a 1pm bus to Kyaukme (K4000) from thePyi Gyi Myat Shin bus station.MONYWAHourly buses depart between 7am and 4pm(K1700, 3¼ to four hours) from the relativelycentral Thiri Mandalar bus station (Map p 202 ;89th St, 21/22), operated by several companiesincluding Mahanwe, AGB and Yadanabon(%61500). In the past some drivers have provedreluctant to allow foreigners on the bus.PYIN OO LWINSHARED TAXI Regular departures (back/frontseat K5000/6000, two hours) from the cornerof 27th and 83rd Sts (Map p 206 ). Alternativelyhave your hotel book for you with Shwe MannMay (%38685) or other operators.PICK-UP TRUCKS Depart when full. They operate(front/back K3000/2000) till mid-afternoonfrom the corner of 28th and 83rd Sts (Map p 206 ).SHWEBOBuses depart roughly hourly (K1700, threeto four hours) until mid-afternoon from ThiriMandalar bus station. Companies include AungNang Man (%72193).TAUNGOOShwe Mann Thu departs at 9pm (K9000, eighthours) from the main bus station. No ‘ferry’.YANGONCountless companies operate air-conditionedbuses (K10,400 to K12,000, around 10 hours).Most run overnight, leaving Mandalay between5pm and 8.30pm, but there are also daytimebuses. Options include the following:Shwe Mann Thu (Map p 206 ; %22365; 32ndSt, 82/83) Departures at 6am, 7am, 8am, 9am,7pm, 8.30pm and 9.30pm.Shwe Mandalar Express (Map p 206 ; %73211;32nd St, 81/82) Departures at 8am, 5pm, 6pm,7pm and 8pm, with bus-station transfer at 3pm.Mann Shwe Pyi (Map p 206 ; %09 6502246;32nd St, 82/83) Departures at 8.30am, 8pmand 8.30pm, with free bus-station transfer at5pm. Comfy air-conditioned buses with reclinerseats and free drinking water.TrainThe train station (Map p 206 ; 30th St, 78/79)is relatively central, saving a long commute toan outlying bus station. Just inside the mainground-fl oor entrance, an MTT sub-office(h9.30am-6pm) can sell tickets at 10% commissionif the queues upstairs look too daunting.8Getting AroundTo/From the AirportNeither city buses nor pick-up trucks go tothe airport. Seven Diamond Express (p 206 ;%22365; 32nd St, 82/83) charges onlyK10,000/4000 per car/person in private/shared taxis, but booking a day ahead is advised.Cheaper hotels will order you an airport taxi forK12,000. Taxis on the street might charge more,as they’ll fi nd it hard to get a return ride. Fromthe airport, you’ll pay K10,000 to town if you useone of the counters on the arrivals fl oor. Freelancetaxis are liable to charge more.BicycleOn foot, Mandalay’s vast size can rapidly becomeoverwhelming. Buses are confusing andmotorcycle/taxi fares can mount up. Renting abicycle is a good solution for random exploration.You can rent one for around K1500 per dayfrom ET Hotel, a shop opposite the Royal GuestHouse and from Mr Jerry.Motorcycle & TaxiMr Jerry (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; h8am-6.30pm) rents drive-your-own motorcycles atK10,000 per day. Motorcycle taxis are reasonablyeasy to fi nd near hotels and on downtownstreet corners. Clunky old Toyota Corolla taxiscan be found outside bus stations, but Mandalay’sdistinctive ‘blue taxis’ cost about half asmuch. These are teeny Mazda pick-up trucks withroom for four or so in the covered cab. Reckon onaround K2000 to the Gawein Jetty from downtown.Charter all day for about K15,000/20,000in town/to the ancient cities (Amarapura, Inwaand Sagaing). Guesthouses can help you fi nd areliable taxi or motorcycle driver.

MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fares (ordinary/upper class/sleeper):DESTINATION PRICE ($) DURATION (HR) DEPARTUREHsipaw 4/7/- 10 4amMonywa 3/-/- 5¼ 6.15amMyitkyina 10/27/3014/31/36Bus & Pick-Up TrucksIf you’re in any kind of hurry, just take a motorbiketaxi. But should you have time to spareand aren’t too worried about not getting quitewhere you wanted to go, Mandalay’s packedfull,antiquated buses and pick-ups can be afun experience. Some, though by no means all,display route numbers, but these are only writtenin local script, the background colour canprove signifi cant and some vehicles don’t followthe route their number implies. Ask, ask, ask… Agood place to try your luck is a jammed junctionjust north of the Zeigyo market (Map p 206 ).Useful routes from near here:» Route 4 Heads along the north moat, gettingclose to the base of Mandalay Hill.» Route 5 (touts may cry ‘Yeyji’ or ‘Yankin Taung’)Along the southern moat, up past Cafe City theneast on 19th St.» Various (touts cry ‘Payagyi’) Heads south toMahamuni Paya.» White 2 on a blue background (cries of‘Mayanja’) Heads west on 26th St to the Mingunferry, sometimes continuing south to GaweinJetty.» Pick-ups to Amarapura, Sagaing and themain bus station Leave when very full from along84th St (Map p 206 ), south of the market.TrishawTraditionally the main form of city transport,trishaws are steadily disappearing from thecity centre, and rumour has it that during 2012they might be phased out altogether. Samplefares:» City centre to Thiri Mandalar bus station, K500» City centre to base of Mandalay Hill, K1500.» All day hire from around K8000.22+16-20noon, 4.15pm4.30amNaba (for Katha)6/13/1611¾noon, 4.15pmNyaung U (Bagan)4/10/-89pmYangon15/35/4011/30/3315¼169.45pm5am, 5.30am, 6amEnglish-speaking drivers include eloquent Ko Re(koore6070@gmail.com for appointments) andMr ‘Take it Easy’, who waits outside the CentralHotel (27th St, 80/81).AROUND MANDALAYFor many visitors, the historic sites aroundMandalay trump anything in the city itself.Iconic attractions include U Bein’s Bridgein Amarapura, Mingun’s gigantic stupastub, Sagaing’s temple-studded hills andhorse-cart rides to Inwa’s wonderful teakmonastery.To visit Inwa’s main sites and Amarapura’sBagaya Kyaung, you’ll need to show orbuy Mandalay’s ‘Archaeological Zone’ $10combo ticket (see p 208 ). A separate $3ticket for Mingun and Sagaing is patchilyenforced. No one checks for tickets at theother sites.Apart from one hotel in Sagaing, there’sno foreigner-licensed accommodation nearany of the sights around Mandalay. Thereare eateries in Mingun, in Sagaing and ateither end of U Bein’s Bridge.Although there are crushed-full pick-uptrucks from Mandalay to Sagaing and Amarapura,they won’t get you close to the mainsights, and even the most tight-fisted travellerwill be well advised to visit by motorcycle(chauffeured or self-drive), taxi or bicycle (ifyou’re not afraid to sweat). River boat is alsoan option for Mingun, which is rather toofar for a bicycle day trip.A full-day ride by motorcycle/blue taxi(around K12,000/18,000) might include themain highlights of Amarapura and Sagaing,plus waiting time at the ferry dock whileMANDALAY AROUND MANDALAY & AROUND 8 8

224MANDALAY & AROUND AROUND MANDALAYWHICH CAPITAL WHENCAPITAL FROM… NOTESInwa (Ava)1364Taungoo 1555Inwa (Ava)1636Shwebo 1752then calledMokeseboSagaing 1760Inwa (Ava)1764Amarapura1783Inwa (Ava)1823Amarapura1841following the 1838earthquakeMandalay 1861-85 the British laterbanished the royalsto Indiayou explore Inwa by horse-cart. Pay slightlymore to be driven around Inwa, to add Paleikor to substitute Mingun for Inwa. Doingthe whole lot in one day would be exhausting– and quite impossible if you wanted todo the Mingun boat. Ideally, make two orthree more modest day trips.AmarapuraamrpUr%02 / POP C35,000Myanmar’s penultimate royal capital, Amarapura(pronounced amuRA-puRA) means‘City of Immortality’, though its period ofprominence lasted less than 70 years (from1783). Starting in 1857, King Mindon dismantledmost of the palace buildings andshipped them 7 miles north to Mandalay,which was to become the new capital accordingto a Buddhist prophesy. These daysAmarapura is essentially a spread-out suburbof Mandalay, but it’s leafy and attractivelyset on a wide, shallow lake, namedfor an ogre who supposedly came looking1SightsoU Bein’s Bridge WOODEN FOOTBRIDGEwI"pin't®t;"The world’s longest teak footbridge gentlycurves 1300yd across shallow TaungthamanLake, creating one of Myanmar’s mostphotographed sites. In the dry season it feelssurreally high and mostly crosses seasonalvegetable gardens. But at the height of summerthe lake rises several feet and laps justbelow the floor planks. Just a few of the 1060poles on which it stands have been replacedby concrete supports.A great time to visit the bridge is just aftersunrise when hundreds of villagers andmonks commute back and forth across it.The light is often best around an hour beforesunset, but by then there will be a largenumber of tourists and trinket sellers. Apopular visiting tactic is to walk across thebridge then return by paddle-boat (K3000)as the sun is setting. However, as boats areusually only available at the bridge’s westernend (where tour buses arrive), you’ll need tomake pick-up arrangements before you walkacross. Or simply ask your taxi/motorbikedriver to drop you at the eastern end. In thedry season a track along the southeast sideof the lake is passable by motorbike.Amarapura #e 0 400 mTo Mandalay# â BagayaTobaccodrying# æWok'Houses'#æKyaungFoundry66PalaceRuins #ä# ÚPahtodawgyi66# ö#-2Taungthaman66LakeMahaGanayonKyaung# æKyauktawgyifor Buddha here. The lake is crossed by anBoatsPaya#for Hire# Úiconic wooden footbridge. Several other3scattered attractions can be visited, but# æthey’re widely spaced, so a bike or taxi isUBein'salmost essential.Bridge1Ayeyarwady RiverShwe Yinma RdASagaing-Mandalay RdA‚Minawon St0 0.2 milesBMilitaryAreaKanthitan StB66123

Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is part ofMandalay’s $10 combo ticket (see p 208 ). Inreality nobody checks.Around the BridgeNear either end of the bridge there’s a selectionof viewpoints, plus food stalls whereyou can buy noodles, tea and roasted crab.Kyauktawgyi PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEekY;k'et;'äkI".ur;"Around 200yd beyond the eastern end ofside of U Bein’s Bridge, this 1847 pagoda,built by Pagan Min, was supposedly modelledon the larger Ananda Pahto at Bagan(p 156 ), but its five-tiered roof makes it lookmore like a Tibetan/Nepali temple. Whilethe paya doesn’t have the perfectly vaultedroofs or the finer decorations of the original,it does have a serene seated Buddha imageand some well-preserved frescoes in the fourapproaches. The southern entry ceiling depictssome bossy, English-looking figures inbamboo hats.Maha Ganayon Kyaung BUDDHIST MONASTERYJust west of the bridge, this sprawling monasteryis home to several thousand youngmonks. Founded around 1914, it’s renownedas a centre for monastic study and strict religiousdiscipline, and for most of the day it’sa pleasantly meditative place. But at about11am, busloads of tourists arrive to gawpwhile the whole monastery sits down to eat,their silence pierced by the endless rattle ofcamera shutters. Worth avoiding.Other SightsPahtodawgyiBUDDHIST STUPApuqiu"et;'äkI"This vast bell-shaped pagoda was erected byKing Bagyidaw in 1820. It’s the tallest structurefor miles around (185ft), a mesmerisingwhite apparition that seems to float abovethe water when viewed from across the lake.Climbing half-way to the upper terrace affordsgreat views, showing the plethora ofhti (stupa pinnacles) glittering through theAmarapura tree-scape. However, womenaren’t allowed up.Bagaya KyaungBUDDHA MUSEUMb;"kr;ekY;='"(admission $10 combo ticket) This 1996 reconstructionof an early-19th-century monasteryhas plenty of flying wooden filigreeroofwork, which looks exciting from afar.However, on closer inspection the worklooks ham-fisted and the collection of 19thcenturyBuddha images will appeal only tospecialists. In the area around here you’llfind a foundry where giant woks are hammeredinto shape, there are several distinctivetobacco drying barns and, hiddenaway at the edge of a military encampment,it’s possible to glimpse the sorry ruins ofsome former palace buildings.Ayeyarwady BridgesLinking Sagaing and Amarapura are twoparallel bridges, each with multiple metalframedspans. The newer three-span, fourlanehighway bridge was completed in 2005.The 1934 British-engineered, 16-span AvaBridge carries the railway and a narrowerroad. In 1942 the British demolished twospans of this bridge to deny passage to theadvancing Japanese. It wasn’t repaired until1954.If you cross the Ava Bridge, you’ll probablybe charged the Mingun–Sagaing $3 fee.However, if approaching from the easternside, you can stop before the checkpoint andlook down to glimpse Thabyedan Fort, oneof three chunky if far-from-dramatic fortsbuilt as a last ditch defence against the Britishadvance in 1885.Shwe-kyet-kaySTUPAS, VIEWPOINTer¯äkk'kY(Map p 228 ) One of the best places from whichto appreciate Sagaing is from across the riverat this little bluff with a cascade of small stupas.It’s part of a pair with the bigger Shwekyet-yeton a gentle rise across the road. Thename, meaning Golden Fowl’s Run, relates toa legend that in a previous life the Buddha-tobehad lived here as a golden chicken and hadfluttered up the hillock to evade royal trappers.The Buddha-bird’s younger brother hadchosen the riverside bluff.Inwa (Ava)a='"vFor over half of the past 650 years, Burma’sroyal capital was Inwa (Mandalay $10 comboticket required). Yet nowadays the siteis a remarkably rural backwater of emptyfields sparsely dotted with widely spacedruins, monastic buildings and stupas. It’sa world away from the city bustle of Mandalay,and for many, exploring by ploddingold horse cart is all part of its charm. Atthe time of research, the $10 combo ticket225MANDALAY AROUND MANDALAY & AROUND AYEYARWADY SIGHTS BRIDGES

226InwaAFerry toSagaingBAyeryarwady RiverC0 800 m#e 0 0.4 milesDTo AvaBridge (0.6mi)1‚1MANDALAY & AROUND AROUND MANDALAY23# Ú 8InwaA# Ú12# ÚBagayaKyaung# Ú 10æ Top SightsBagaya Kyaung....................................A3æ Sights1 Gaung Say Daga Gate .........................C22 Horse Cart Waiting Area ..................... D13 Htilaingshin Paya................................. C14 Le-htat-gyi Paya ..................................B35 Maha Aungmye Bonzan...................... C16 Monk's Residence ............................... C17 Nanmyin ...............................................C28 Nogatataphu Paya...............................A29 Sandamuni Paya..................................C310 Shwedigon Paya ..................................B211 Ticket Booth......................................... C112 Yedanasini Paya ..................................A2ï Transport13 Trishaws to Ava Bridge andAmarapura ........................................ D1was checked only for those entering BagayaKyaung and Maha Aungmye Bonzan. However,if you don’t have the pass, your cartdriveror motorbike-pilot will expect you topay up to avoid getting him into possibletrouble.BManyPagodas4 9# Ú # Ú‚æ#7#ö26æ# æ#11 æ#æ # # Ú 351 æ#To Inwa South Village (600m);Tada-U and PaleikCThe local Inwa Nat Pwe festival culminateson the full moon of Tabaung (February/March).HistoryIn 1364, Inwa got its first of four turns as Burmesecapital when Sagaing, across the river,fell to the Shan. Inwa’s kings quickly set aboutre-establishing Bamar supremacy, which hadbeen in decline since the fall of Bagan. Inwameans ‘Mouth of the Lake’, but the site hasalso been known less modestly as ‘City ofGems’ (Ratnapura in classical Pali, Tadanabonin Burmese). The Europeans knew the city asAva, and indeed dealt with Burma under themoniker ‘Kingdom of Ava’ even after the royalcourt abandoned Inwa for Amarapura (in1841) and eventually Mandalay.1SightsOnly three main sites are at all touristoriented,though at each of those the drinksvendors and postcard peddlers can be annoyinglyinsistent.oBagaya Kyaung WOODEN MONASTERYb;"kr;ekY;='"By far Inwa’s most memorable individualattraction is this 1834 teak monastery supportedon 267 teak posts, the largest 60ftD13#23

high and 9ft in circumference. The prayerhall’s soaring interior is cool and dark, feelinggenuinely ancient. Its stained timbers areinscribed with repeating peacock and lotusflowermotifs. Despite the constant flow ofvisitors, this remains a living monastery withglobes hung above the little school section toassist in the novices’ geography lessons.There are a few interesting stupas in thefields surrounding the monastery. Somehorse-cart drivers will get tetchy if you lingertoo long, but you could breeze throughBagaya and walk out to the stupas – no postcardvendors out there.NanmyinWATCHTOWERa='"vemYú;'c='The 90ft ‘leaning tower of Inwa’ is all thatremains of King Bagyidaw’s palace complex.The upper portion was shattered by the 1838earthquake and the rest has taken on a precarioustilt that is noticeable when you’reclimbing the steps. The tower is neither beautifulnor especially high, but wide views fromthe top are great for getting your bearingsamid the widely scattered sights. As it’s nota religious site, you can keep your shoes on.Maha Aungmye BonzanMONASTERYmh;ea;='e¨m.®uc®®Built, unusually, of stucco-covered brick,this 1822 royal monastery temple is a raresurvivor from the Ava era. The faded, lumpystructure looks attractive in cleverly takenphotographs, but in the harsh midday sunthe main attraction is the cool affordedby its ultrathick walls and the bats flittingthrough its empty undercroft. Sales folk atthe entrance can be especially persistent. Itis also known as the Ok Kyaung or the MeNu Ok Kyaung.Behind, the antique two-storey monks’residence is crumbling, and a footpath leadsto river gardens with views across to Sagaing.Beside the monastery is the more fancifulHtilaingshin Paya, an attractive array ofstupas, some dating back to the Bagan periodand recently part-gilded.OTHER SIGHTSShwedigon Paya &Nogatataphu PayaGIANT STUPASRising above the palm-speckled horizon, thetips of two enormous stupas are visible formiles around. Golden Shwedigon is tuckedinto the southwest corner of Inwa's moatedcentral ‘island’ while recently revamped Nogatataphulies around 200m beyond theBagaya monastery turning. There’s a tinytea-shop at its entrance.Yedanasini PayaSTUPA RUINSThis small but photogenic ensemble bringstogether a sitting Buddha and a handful ofold brick stupas shaded by a giant flametree. Horse carts go right past it en route toBagaya Kyaung.City WallsRUINSOld Inwa was protected by rivers to northand east, canals to south and west andringed by city walls. Much of the canal andseveral sections of wall remain, includingsome chunky rampart sections above thesouthern canal. By horse-cart tour the onlybit you’re likely to see is the heavily reconstructedGaung Say Daga (Hair-WashingGate).Le-htat-gyi PayaPAGODA RUINForgotten in fields around 1.3km south ofthe moat are a series of forgotten, decayingold stupas. Across the road from the largegilt bell-stupa of Sandamuni Paya is thefour-storey stub of the once huge Le-htatgyiPaya, which has been fissured by earthquakes,but retains a fair amount of stuccodetail. If you arrive by road from Tada-U,you’ll drive right by, but horse-cart tourswon’t come anywhere near this far south.8Getting ThereThere are three possible ways to access Inwa.MAIN RIVER FERRY Unless otherwise stated,any tour or taxi-hire that includes Inwa will assumeyou want to visit the site by horse-cart.They will therefore drop you at a small jetty about1km south of Ava Bridge, from which shuttleferries take just two minutes to get to the otherside, where cart drivers await. Ferries depart assoon as there are a few passengers (usually everyfew minutes). Pedestrians pay K1000 return,motorcyclists K1500. No one-way reductions.Cars can’t cross. Double fares apply after 6pm.In the rainy season, ferries start further northnear Thabyedan Fort beneath Ava Bridge.BY ROAD Take the new (dusty, unfi nished)airport highway 4.5km south of the Ava Bridgejunction. Around 200m beyond a major riverbridge, but before Tada U, turn right. Windthrough Inwa South Village taking a right at bothT-junctions (600m then another 600m). PassLe-htat-gyi and reach the moat 3.5km after leavingthe highway. Loop around the moat clockwisefor the easiest access to the main sights.FERRY FROM SAGAING A little passengerboat crosses from Sagaing, but it operates infrequentlyand might refuse to take foreigners.227MANDALAY AROUND MANDALAY & AROUND 8 INWA 8 (AVA)

228MANDALAY & AROUND AROUND MANDALAY8Getting AroundA three-hour horse-cart tour visiting the threemain sites costs K5000 for one or two people. Formany visitors horse-cart tours are a major part ofthe Inwa experience, the carriages avoiding noisepollution and creating picturesque scenes themselvesalong the tree-lined tracks. However, cartsare undeniably slow moving and somewhat limiting.Bringing your own bicycle or motorbike fromMandalay can prove an attractive alternative.Sagaingcc'kui='"%072 / POP C40,000As you cross the Ayeyarwady on the busy newbridge, Sagaing’s uncountable white-andgoldstupas shimmer alluringly on a series ofhillocks that rise behind the almost flat towncentre. No individual pagoda stands out asa particular must-see, but taken togetherthe whole scene is enthralling. A highlightis walking the (sometimes steep) tree-hungstairways that lead magically past monasteriesand nunneries to viewpoints from whichyou can survey the river and yet more stupas.HistoryNamed for the trees hanging over the river,Sagaing became the capital of an independentShan kingdom around 1315, after the fallwwAung SanStatue # æ# Ú3-#4 # Úof Bagan had thrown central Myanmar intochaos. Its period of importance was short, forin 1364 the founder’s grandson, Thado Minbya,hop-scotched the capital to Inwa. From1760 Sagaing enjoyed just four more yearsas capital, but the town’s significance fromthen on became more spiritual than political.Today it is home to some 6000 monks andnuns, and is a place where many MyanmarBuddhists go to meditate when stressed.1SightsSAGAING HILLcc'kiu='"et;='(admission Sagaing/Mingun $3 ticket)Stupa-topped hillocks coalesce into SagaingHill, a long tree-dappled north–south ridgethat starts around 1½ miles north of themarket area. If you drive to the top, you66Sagaing #e123AA‚To KaunghmudawPaya (3.5mi)Market# ÿ5444444# ÿOK Guesthouse4444441 # ÚColonial444444HousesBeerAvaû Station# æBridgeBC444444Say Yon Gyi StAye MyaWaddy StEducationCollege V# #BHtuparyon StSagaingæ Sights1 Htuparyon Paya...................................B32 Shwe-kyet-kay .....................................D33 Shwezigon............................................ B14 Thacheiselik .........................................B2ÿ Sleeping5 Happy Hotel .........................................B2CRoad to Sagaing‚HillMyo Thit StMinn Str StHoetaypadaStrand Rd0 800 m0 0.4 milesDToMingun‚Stairway toSoon U PonyaShin Payaand Sagaing Hill# Ú‚# Ú# æ SagaingBridge# æTonboJettiesAyeyarwady RiverD2 # Ú123

will probably be charged $3 for a Mingun–Sagaing ticket, and on the way back to themarket, your taxi driver will probably stopoff at one of the silver shops where repoussageartisans bang away at various pieces.Alternatively there are several pedestrianaccess stairways, including one from theMingun road, where nobody is likely tocheck tickets.Soon U Ponya Shin Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLEThis ‘early offering shrine’ is the most importantof the temples on Sagaing Hill’ssouthern crown and the first you’ll cometo on climbing the southern stairway. Itscentral 97ft-high gilded stupa was originallybuilt in 1312. Legends claim that thestructure magically appeared overnight,built by the king’s faithful minister Ponyain a superhuman flurry of activity inspiredby a magical Buddha relic that he’d found ina betel-nut box. The myth fancifully claimsthat Ponya himself was of supernatural parentage,his father having ‘flown’ to Sagaingfrom the Himalayas millennia before, arrivingto a curious communion with the Buddha,seven hermits and a flower-bearingorang-utan. Burmese genealogy is neverboring.Notice the bronze rabbit that serves as acollection box in the rather gaudy Buddhahall. And don’t miss the views from the balconyarea of the small associated snack bar.Umin ThounzehBUDDHIST TERRACENorth of Soon U Ponya Shin, Umin Thounzeh(literally 30 Caves) is one of the moredistinctive complexes on the main hilltop, acolourful crescent-shaped colonnade withinwhich there are 45 Buddha images.TilawkaguruCAVE TEMPLEAccessed from a dead-end road at the southwestbase of the hill, this mural-filled cavecomplex dates originally from 1672. Untilrecently it was a popular site for visitorsand was especially appealing when lit onlyby candles. However, at the time of research,opening times had become sporadic.TOWN CENTREThe market area isn’t especially charming,but further south it’s pleasant to cyclealong Strand Rd with several fine oldcolonial-era buildings lining its northside and views across to Inwa from the Ayeyarwadyriverfront. A block inland fromhere, Htuparyon Paya is a gigantic stupaoriginally built in 1444. It’s unusual for havingthree circular storeys each incorporatingarched niches. Across Yonegyi St, a gardenof garish statues includes a particularlyfearsome red cobra.North of the market area Thacheiselikhas a large golden stupa and Shwezigonis a huge bell-shaped brick stupa, currentlyundergoing a massive renovation.NORTHWEST OF CENTREFive miles northwest of central Sagaing,Kaunghmudaw Paya is a vast gilded puddingof a stupa rising 150ft high. It was builtin 1636 to commemorate Inwa’s establishmentas the royal capital. According to localtradition, the king agonised interminablyover how to shape the stupa. His queen,tired of hubby’s indecisiveness, ripped openher blouse and, pointing to her breast, said:‘Make it like this!’ Less romantic scholarsclaim it was actually modelled after thevast Suvarnamali Mahaceti (Ruwanwelisaya)stupa in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka.Kaunghmudaw is distantly visible fromSagaing Hill and easy to spot as you drivepast en route to Monywa.4Sleeping & EatingTo make a more in-depth exploration ofSagaing’s leafy pagoda paths some travellersopt to stay in the town’s one foreignerlicensedhotel. However, while central, it’sa long walk from the main stupa area andmanagement doesn’t rent bicycles or motorbikes,so you’d be wise to bring your ownfrom Mandalay.Happy Hotel HOTEL $$(%21420; standard s/d $15/25, superior $20/30,deluxe $30/40; a) On a small town-centrebackstreet tucked behind the market. Thebest deal in this two-part complex are themid-priced ‘superior’ rooms with comfy mattresses,fridge and modest bathrooms. Standardrooms are contrastingly old-fashionedwith lumpy beds. The sizeable Chineserestaurant (veg/non-veg mains K2500/5000)is partly a gift shop, and there’s a cheaperBurmese eatery next door.8Getting There & AwaySagaing is about 12 miles southwest ofMandalay. Authorities may check/sell theSagaing-Mingun $3 ticket at the old Ava Bridge,but there’s no such check if you use the newSagaing Bridge, used by most Sagaing-Mandalay pick-up trucks.229MANDALAY AROUND MANDALAY & AROUND SAGAING SLEEPING & & EATING

e#230MANDALAY & AROUND AROUND MANDALAYMingunm='"kân'"%72 / POP C1000Home to a trio of unique pagodas, Mingun(admission Sagaing/Mingun $3 ticket) is acompact riverside village that makes a popularhalf-day excursion from Mandalay. Thejourney is part of the attraction, whether putteringup the wide Ayeyarwady or rollercoasteringfrom Sagaing along a rural lane throughtimeless hamlets of bamboo-weave homes.1SightsMingun PayaSTUPA RUINm='"kân'".ur;"Started in 1790, Mingun Paya (or Pahtodawgyi)would have been the world’s biggeststupa had it been finished. In fact, workstopped when King Bodawpaya died in 1819.That left only the bottom third complete.But that is still a huge structure – a roughly240ft cube on a 460ft lower terrace – whichis often described as the world’s largestpile of bricks. And for added drama, thereare several deeply cut cracks caused by an1838 earthquake. Across the road, just thehaunches remain of two vast brick chinthe(half-lion, half-dragon guardian deities) thatwould have guarded the pagoda.Mingun #e 0 200 m123AHsinbyumePaya # ÚAMingun æ#Bell0 0.1 milesBBuddhistNursingHomeTicket ChintheMingun æ#Booth Ruin#Paya æ## fæ#Snack # úRestaurants ChintheRuin#SettawyaPaya æ## ú Poing# ÚPondawPayañ#BAyeryarwadyRiver# f123Climbing to the top of Mingun Paya affordspredictably fine views across the rivertowards hazily distant Mandalay, but despitethe structure’s dilapidated state, youmust go barefoot, which can be very painfulon soft Western feet.To see the giant structure without itsforeground of snack shops and ticket booth,walk the path around the back – best in afternoonlight.To see what Mingun Paya would havelooked like had it ever been completed, havea quick look at diminutive Pondaw Paya,200yd south at the end of the tourist strip.Mingun BellGIANT BELLm='"kân'"ex:='"el;='"Continuing his biggest-is-best obsession, in1808 Bodawpaya commissioned a giganticbronze bell. Weighing 55,555 viss (90 tonnes),it’s 13ft high and over 16ft across at the lip,making it the world’s largest uncracked bell(Moscow has a bigger one but it’s split andnot hung). Another unusual feature of theMingun Bell is that you can scramble beneathand stand within while some helpfulbystander gives it a good thump.Across the road, a Buddhist nursing homefor family-less elderly folk is always glad ofdonations.Hsinbyume PayaBUDDHIST STUPAz='¨fBmy'.ur;"Built in 1816, possibly using materials pilferedfrom Mingun Paya, this unusual pagodais supposedly a representation of theSulamani Paya. That, according to the Buddhistplan of the cosmos, stands atop MtMeru, the mountain that stands at the centreof the universe. The stupa is surroundedby seven wavy whitewashed terraces representingthe seven mountain ranges aroundMt Meru. At the top, one Buddha sits directlybehind another; the small one behind wasbeheaded by raiders looking for gold butwhen it was fixed, locals worried that Buddha’shead was tilted too low, so they madeanother.Settawya PayaBUDDHIST SHRINEck'et;'r;.ur;"Hollow and lacking finesse, this 1811 shrinecontains a ‘footprint’ of the Buddha. How canone be sure it’s real? Well, who else had feeta yard long with conch-shell toes and a floralheel? A lovably naive rank of sitting nat statuesleads down to the riverbank behind.

TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingun is so small that it can feel oppressively touristy, especially if you arrive with the9am boat and follow the crowd along the main drag, overloaded as it is with drinks sellersand oil-painting vendors. But you can easily bypass most of these by simply walkingaround the monuments on dusty paths to the west. This route makes particular sense inthe afternoon when the sun lights the west-facing side of Mingun Paya. By then touristnumbers will already be greatly diminished following the return of the 1pm boat. But thebricks of Mingun Paya will be scalding hot after soaking up a full day’s sun.In the past the Mingun-Sagaing combo-ticket was sold as you boarded the ferry inMandalay. However, since the Sagaing- Mingun road has been upgraded, the $3 fee isnow half-heartedly collected instead at the east side of Mingun Paya. If you don’t want toclimb the stupa, you’ll probably avoid paying anything.5EatingThere are half a dozen snack shacks aroundMingun Paya entrance, but only Poing, furthersouth, has a river view and draft Spirulinabeer (K700).8Getting There & AwayBOAT The Tourist Boat Association (%63596)has a daily riverboat service from Mandalaydeparting at 9am (K5000 return) and takingabout one hour from the western end of 26thSt in Mandalay (Map p 202 ). These boats returnfrom Mingun at 1pm. If there are less than fi vepassengers or if you want different departuretimes, you can rent a small/larger boat forK25,000/40,000.MOTORBIKE Now that the road has beenmostly asphalted, it is increasingly popularto ride to Mingun by motorbike (around 25minutes from Sagaing) as part of an ancientcities loop.Paleikplip'%02 / POP C2500At 11am daily, local families and tourists convergeon Paleik’s modest temple, the ratherkitschy Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-pye,to see the bathing and feeding of three giantpythons, which give it the widely used nickname,the Snake Pagoda (Hmwe Paya).The pythons appeared from the nearby forestin 1974 and never left. Predictably muchof the statuary now celebrates Buddha gettingcosy with snakes.Arguably more impressive than thepython-fest is Paleik’s almost entirely overlookedcollection of over 300 close-packedstupas in varying states of repair, manyfrom the Konbaung period. They’re easy tofind. Simply walk five minutes south fromthe snake temple.Paleik is about 12 miles south of Mandalay,a mile west of the annoyingly busyMandalay–Yangon road. If you’re heading toInwa or Sagaing, there’s a tree-shaded crosscountrylane that links the Yangon road toAva Bridge, so you don’t need to go all theway back to Amarapura.Yankin Hillrn'k='"et;='Around three miles east of Mandalay, thispagoda-dotted hillside lacks the historicalpedigree of other regional attractions butmakes a pleasantly simple, untouristy shortexcursion from Mandalay.Yankin PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLESAfter crossing a long, flat swath of paddyfields, 19th St suddenly swings abruptlyright at the foot of Yankin Hill. A coveredstairway here takes you steeply up in 10minutes to a pagoda where feeding a coupleof domesticated stags supposedly bringsyou Buddhist merit. Pagoda walkways turnsouth along the ridge-top, eventually duckingdown into a rocky cleft where devoteessplash water on tacky gold fish statues thatlie at the feet of a Buddha image. The mainattraction of the hill is the view, which takesin a wide sweep of rice fields to the west andthe Shan foothills behind.Mya Kyauk KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYFrom the foot of the Yankin Paya accessstairway, backtrack 300yd towards Mandalaythen turn north and go another 300ydnorth to find this modern monastery with itsdazzlingly distinctive brassy stupa. Mya Kyaukis famed for its subterranean source ofMANDALAY AROUND MANDALAY & AROUND PALEIK EATING

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltdmoderately alkaline mineral water, found by232 faith-led digging in 1998. The water supposedly‘promotes IQ and ameliorates diabetes,constipation, gout and morning sickness’. Theonly way to try it is to first seek an audiencewith the head monk, Bhaddanta KhaymarSarya, who may deign to give you a bottleof it. Before opening the bottle, try holdingit up to the sunlight and play. If you hit onthe right angle, the light projects an imagereminiscent of the monastery stupa onto theback of the label. ‘Magic’, claim the locals. Orat least good bottle design.8Getting There & AwaySome route 5 Mandalay pick-up trucks come outas far as Yankin. By bicycle it’s a straightforwardif somewhat traffi c-blighted ride, almost deadstraight along 19th St. By car or motorbike youcan drive to the top of the hill by continuingaround and winding up from the south and east.MANDALAY & AROUND AROUND MANDALAY© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdNorthern MyanmarMyitkyina . . . . . . . . . . 236Bhamo (Banmaw) . . 242Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kyaukmyaung . . . . . . 246Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . .247Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . . . . 250Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . .257Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Lashio . . . . . . . . . . . . 263The Far North . . . . . . . 266Best Places to Stay» Dat Taw Gyaik WaterfallResort, (p 256 )» Mr Charles Guest House,(p 260 )» Malikha Lodge (p 267 )» Basic village homestaysaround Hsipaw (see p 262 )» Friendship Hotel, Bhamo(p 243 )Best Places to Eat» Club Terrace (p 254 )» Kiss Me, (p 237 )» Woodland (p 254 )» Feel (p 254 )Why Go?Fascinating northern Myanmar covers a vast area but for nowforeigners without special permits are essentially limited totwo main out-and-back routes. One of these climbs rapidlyfrom Mandalay to the British-era summer capital of Pyin OoLwin (Maymyo) then continues across the rolling Shan plateauto Lashio. The relatively cool days and crisp cold eveningsare refreshing and hikes take visitors into timeless Lisu,Palaung and Shan hill-villages, notably around Hsipaw.The second main option is taking a multiday ride alongthe mighty Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. You’ll need to allowa week or so if doing the whole stretch between Myitkyinaand Mandalay, but shorter versions are possible startingfrom Bhamo or Katha, the setting of George Orwell’s BurmeseDays. The main attractions are the people you’ll meetand the lazy, mesmerising journey.Far beyond Myitkyina lie the snow-capped peaks of Myanmar’sHimalaya. However, getting anywhere near theremeans joining expensive pre-organised fly-in/fly-out tours viaPutao for which permits take at least two weeks to arrange.When to GoNovember is probably the best time for boat travel on Ayeyarwady,with temperatures comfortable but water levelsstill high. As the season proceeds and river levels fall, boatstake longer and larger ferries may need to stop at night toavoid hidden sandbanks. As in Mandalay, the Ayeyarwadyvalley might have mildly nippy nights in midwinter but daysare warm and it gets progressively hotter into April beforethe rains start in May or June. The Shan Plateau offers aneasy escape to cooler days and nights that can feel positivelycold in the middle of winter. In Putao and the far north, rainis least likely in November and December but temperaturescan dip almost to freezing. Snow can hinder serious climbingexpeditions which are best timed for September or Octoberdespite the rain which makes far-north roads almostimpassable.

River234TIBET00200 km120 milesDibrugarhTezuINDIAHkakaboRazi(19,295ft)MountainsIceHkakabo RaziNational ParkNORTHERN MYANMARJorhatImphalTamuSittaungKalemyoKalewaKalayAirportSAGAINGREGIONPeyagyiTwin Daung(Spirulina Lake)MawlaikMonywaMonSAGAINGREGIONKhamti(Hkamti)HpakantRiverChindwinHomalinPaungbyinYe-UHukaung ValleyTiger ReserveKin-uTi-KyaingTagaungTanaiSHANSTATENamtuKACHINSTATENyaungbinMyitkyinaIndawgyiLake MogaungLontonTengchongHopinMohnyinNabaKathaRoads Closedto ForeignersMogokHukaungValleyRoads Closedto ForeignersShweguMomaukStone VillageBhamo RuiliShweliNamhsanShweboKyaukmyaung GokteikBudalinViaductPanglongPutaoKumon TaungAyeyarwadyRiverHsipawKyaukme445GokteikPwe Kauk Falls Peik ChinMandalayMyaung CaveWetwun44Anisakan Pyin Oo Lwin36Malikha RiverMyit-sonNamhkamValleyMaykhaMu-seNamhkamKutkaiRiverLuxi(Mangshi)Hsenwi3 Permit Requiredto ProceedLashio Beyond LashioCHINANorthern Myanmar Highlights1 Walk into unspoilt Shanand Palaung villages fromlovable Hsipaw (p 258 ), alaid-back plateau town withprincely connections2 Spend lazy days driftingdown the mighty AyeyarwadyRiver starting from Myitkyina(p236 ), with its colourfulmarket and dazzling festivals,or from pretty little Bhamo(p 242 )3 Be one of just a tinyhandful of foreigners whojump ship at Shwegu (p 244 )to discover the town’s historicisland monastery and forest ofmini-pagodas4 Investigate the ancientpottery traditions ofKyaukmyaung (p 246 )5 Discover George Orwellconnections in sleepy riversideKatha (p 245 )6 Take the cool upland airat Pyin Oo Lwin (p 250 ), theold British summer capital ofMyanmar

PeopleThe north is sparsely populated and ethnicallycomplex, with many minority groupsdominating a series of pro- and anti-governmentlocal administrations and regionalarmed forces.Northeast of Mandalay you’ll find manyShan people (as in eastern Myanmar; seeboxed text, p 196 ) along with the related Waand the Palaung who see themselves semireligiouslyas the guardians of Burmese teaproduction (see boxed text, p 262 ). Lashio andseveral other border areas have large Chinesepopulations who mostly retain their languageeven after generations of living in Myanmar.North of Mandalay lies Kachin State where‘minorities’ (notably Kachin and Shan) forman overall majority. Shan folk here are dividedinto five subgroups all prefixed ‘Tai-’. Meanwhile,as an ethnic term, Kachin is generallysynonymous with speakers of the Jingpaw(Jingpo) language. However, by Myanmar’sofficial definition, it also covers at least fiveother groups including Rawang and Lisu. TheLisu language is written in a sci-fi capitalisedLatin script with many inverted letters and‘vowel-free’ words (hello is ‘hw hw’). Over thepast century, many Kachin and a majority ofLisu have converted to Christianity, their formeranimist beliefs now largely reduced tocolourful folklore as seen in two great festivalsat Myitkyina (p 236 ).In the Himalayan foothills are minusculepopulations of various Tibetan tribal peoplesincluding the Taron, Asiatic pygmies who nownumber barely a dozen and are limited toNaungmun in Myanmar’s northernmost tip.Dangers & AnnoyancesSince Burma’s independence, the north haswitnessed a whole smorgasbord of low-leveluprisings and ethnic separatist movements.Tourists won’t be allowed near any flashpoints so for most visitors these are a politicalcuriosity rather than a serious danger, thoughthe closure of whole areas of the region is anobvious annoyance. Many insurgency conflictsthat had rumbled on since the early1960s, were mothballed after a 1994 ceasefirethat brought de facto recognition of ethnicadministrations over the areas their armiescontrolled. The KIA (Kachin IndependenceArmy) is still said to control most of KachinState away from main rivers and rail lines.Shan rebels continue to fight sporadicallywith the United Wa State Army (UWSA), oneof the formations that emerged after the 1989TRAVEL RESTRICTIONSA large percentage of the vast andpotentially fascinating northern regionis essentially inaccessible to foreignvisitors without special permission.The main exceptions are areas along orclose to the Mandalay–Lashio road andtowns along the Ayeyarwady betweenMandalay and Myitkyina. You can alsolink Mandalay and Myitkyina by railwaybut not by road. With suitable permits(allow several weeks’ preparation) additionaloptions include expensive fly-intours to the Himalayan foothill areaaround Putao, and an accompanieddrive from Lashio to Mu-se for the Chineseborder crossing. Linking Lashio toMyitkyina via Bhamo might look sensibleon a map but it requires permitsand also uses a road that’s so horriblydegraded even locals avoid it. Foreignersare seriously discouraged fromvisiting the ruby-mining town of Mogokand jade-mining sin city of Hpakant(Pakkan).implosion of the Burmese Communist Party.Quite who’s fighting who can change dramatically,as was seen after 2008 when thecontroversial new constitution demandedan end to private armies. The previously progovernmentUWSA and autonomous Kokang(an ethnic Chinese grouping) both baulkedat the idea of turning their forces into borderguards under Myanmar Army command. Theresult was a major government army assaulton Kokang in 2009.MYITKYINA & THE UPPERAYEYARWADYSnaking across Kachin State like a fat yellowpython, the mighty Ayeyarwady Riverprovides the main transport route betweena series of gently interesting port towns,isolated villages and gold-panning camps.While no individual sight is world beating,the journey itself is a stepping down of gearsthat many visitors find unforgettable. Unlikeboat rides from Mandalay to Bagan, ferrieson the upper Ayeyarwady are used almostentirely by locals. Slowly chugging days providean opportunity to interact with localpeople in a way that is often impossible on235MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR& THE UPPER AYEYARWADY

236NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYdry land. That’s especially true of the bigger,slower (government-run) Inland WaterTransport (IWT) ferries. A phrase book anda bottle of Grand Royal can be useful tools tohelp break the ice.Note that the Ayeyarwady isn’t scenicallydramatic in the way of, say, the Nam Ou inneighbouring Laos, but the landscape doesreach several modest crescendos as rollingfields and distant sand banks alternate withforest-dappled ‘defiles’.Myitkyina¨mc'äkI"n;"%074 / POP C40,000The capital of Kachin State, Myitkyina lacksmuch in the way of real sights but it’s an engagingmulticultural place, home to Kachin,Lisu, Chinese and Burmese. The low-rise architectureis predominantly bland but manymature trees give shade and there’s a fairscattering of part-timber houses. Citizensseem unguardedly keen to assist visitors,with local Christians particularly keen topractise their English.Most visitors jump straight onto an AyeyarwadyRiver boat out (see boxed text,p 239 ), but the town is also host to two ofMyanmar’s most colourful ‘ethnic’ festivals.NAVIGATING MYITKYINAThe town spreads for miles but the centralarea is a manageably compact grid.Walking out of the train station, WaingMaw St heads east reaching the riverbank in five short blocks. Parallel butfour blocks further north is Zei Gyi Rd,the junction marked by one of Myitkyina’stwo clock towers. Zei Gyi runs eastto the market and river, west across thetracks passing very close to the YMCA(follow the tracks north), Hotel United(second block then north), Three StarHotel (fifth block then north) and plentifulrestaurants. Parallel to Ze Gyi fourblocks further north, Si Pin Thar Yar Stalso crosses the railway. The main roadthen swerves northwest to become PyiHtaung Su Rd, the road to the airportand Sinbo ferry jetty. But if you insteadcontinue in a northerly sweep on ThakhinPhay Net St, you’ll reach the museumand, eventually, Manao Park and JingHpaw Thu restaurant.1Sights & ActivitiesProduce MarketMARKET(h5am-5pm) This riverside market specialisesin colourful heaps of Chinese fruit and localfresh vegetables. Many of the latter arriveby canoe and are then lugged up the rearstairway on shoulder poles. At dawn thiscreates an unforgettable scene with moreopen boats gliding in across shimmeringgolden water backed by a rising sun.Directly southwest is the architecturallydrab main market (h8.30am-5pm).Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw BUDDHIST TEMPLEThis gilded ‘wish-fulfilling’ pagoda is thetown’s most eye-catching religious building,sitting on the banks of the Ayeyarwady Riverat the north end of Zaw John (Strand) Rd.Opposite its stupa, a 98ft-long recliningbuddha and nearby standing equivalent(both ‘housed’) were funded by a Japanesesoldier who had served here in WWII. Theypartly commemorate 3400 of his comradeswho died.Kachin State Cultural Museum MUSEUM(Yon Gyi St; admission $2; h10am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) Displays Kachin and Shan costumesand the usual assortment of instruments,farming tools and ethnological artefacts.Aung Ze Yan Aung PayaPAGODAJust east of the airport, this pagoda is noteworthyfor its arcing ranks of around 1000little buddhas sitting in the grounds.T ToursU Myint Oo (‘Marcus’; %23009, 09 240 1314;khaingkhaingsoesann@gmail.com; A2 ConstructionBldg, Yan Aung Mien St) Born in Italy, ‘Marcus’speaks excellent English, arranges carrental and leads upper-range private tours,some using a snazzy new 4WD SUV-truck.Snowland Tours (%23499; snowland@mptmail.net.mm; Wai Maw St) Two blocks east ofthe station, this helpful agency can bookflights and arrange customised tours.Sher Mohammad Khan (%09 4700 0174)English-speaking driver who can take youaround in his 1940s US Jeep, a vehiclethat his father originally drove here acrossthe Ledo Rd during WWII.zFestivals & EventsLisu New YearCULTURALStarted in 2011 this big three-day bashunites Lisu folks from all across Kachin

State and Xishuangbanna (China) in a verycolourful, if comfortably slow-moving fair.The event is entirely untouristy, unless youcount the many costumed Lisu villagerssnapping photos of one another – variedregional Lisu costumes being markedly different.Highlights include barefoot climbingof a knife tower and have-a-go stalls totry out your prowess on a traditional crossbow.Held before the February full moon.Manao FestivalCULTURALOriginally a way to propitiate the localnat, this is now a nationally importantgathering of the six Kachin tribes forfeasting and costumed dances, performedin Manao park (north of centre) where thelarge Native American–style totem polesremain in place year round. Accommodationwill be stretched at this time. Observersget into the festival mood by drinkingcopious quantities of rice beer. Held onand around 10 January, Kachin State Day.4SleepingIn Myitkyina, nowhere named ‘Guesthouse’takes foreigners and the town’s two riversidehotels can’t be recommended: the Nanthida isrun down and slated for conversion into officeswhile the potentially lovely Sumpra is alsoin need of some TLC and likely to be rebuiltin 2012 (it’s also inconveniently far north oftown towards the Ayeyarwady Bridge). Apartfrom the YMCA and the cheap, but rather sorry,New Light Hotel (singles/doubles $10/15),all other options are variations on the typicalChinese-style hotel.Hotel United HOTEL $$(%22085; 38 Thit Sa St; s/d/f $25/30/40; a)Brand new and slightly more refined thanmost of the Chinese hotels, it’s beside thebetter known Hotel Pantsun, a block west ofthe YMCA and the railway line. It’s close toseveral eateries yet reasonably quiet.Xing Xian Hotel HOTEL $$(%22281; xingxianhotel@mptmail.net.mm; 127Shan Su North; standard s/d $20/30, superior s/d$25/35; a) Two giant vases and a cabinet ofjade trinkets welcome you into this quiet,friendly decade-old hotel that’s two blockssouth and west from the jetty (or four blockssouth from the market). Walls are gettinggrubby in some of the 30 rooms, but thebest ‘superior’ options (upper-floor corners)are bright and well equipped. Staff here areunusually obliging, informal bicycle rental ispossible (K3000 per day) and the location iscentral yet quiet, just a block from the river.YMCA HOSTEL $(%23010; mka-ymca@myanmar.com.mm; YMCA St;s/d/ste $12/16/20, s/d with shared bathroom $8/13;ai) The ‘Y’ is an ageing half-timbered placewhose main attractions are low prices andthe very helpful English-speaking staff whocan prove to be a valuable source of information.However, conditions are pretty basicand beneath the starched white sheets, thebeds are lumpy. The family suite is no lessgrungy but it’s the size of an apartment,sleeps three and comes with kitchenette.Two Dragons Hotel HOTEL $$(%23490; Zay Gyi St; s $25-35, d $35-45; a)While marginally the smartest city centreoption, the difference in quality isn’talways quite enough to justify the heavymark-up and some rooms, while wellequipped, are inconveniently configured.Central but somewhat noisy.5EatingTraditionally Kachin food is noted for usingrelatively little oil in contrast to Burmesecuisine. Classic dishes include chekachin(steamed chicken pasted with spices andwrapped in a banana leaf), sipa (mixture offreshly steamed vegetables sprinkled withsesame powder) and nakoo-che (hot-sourfish with bamboo shoots). Wash it downwith kaung-ye, a cloudy semi-sweet pinkbrownbeer made from sticky rice.As well as the places reviewed here, thereis a wide range of accessible (if fairly standard)eateries along Zaw Gyi St west of therail tracks.oKiss Me BURMESE $(Zaw John Rd; snacks K500-1500; h6am-9pm)Popular with Myitkyina’s wind-combedfashionable youth, this is at first glancejust a simple stilted riverside pavilion withlow wooden stalls. Yet quite unexpectedlyit turns out some of Myanmar’s very bestsnack-food. The ‘banana roll’ is as delicate afritter as you’ll find and comes with a wonderfultangy tamarind dipping sauce. Anddon’t miss their fabulous gyin tok a divineflavour explosion that is quite possibly thebest crunchy ginger salad you’ll ever taste.Jing Hpaw Thu KACHIN $$(Riverside; dishes K1500-3000; h9am-10pm) Consideredthe top place for real Kachin food,you’ll probably need local help finding (and237MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER SLEEPINGMYITKYINA AYEYARWADY SLEEPING

238AYEYARWADY RIVER TRIP PLANNINGNORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYWhich Boat?IWT FERRIESThese two-/three-storey craft are the cheapest option and the best for interacting withlocals but they’re slow, unreliable and government-owned.» Routes They run three times a week between Bhamo and Mandalay with stops inShwegu, Katha, Ti Kyaing, Tagaung and Kyaukmyaung. They do not proceed furthernorth than Bhamo. Timetables are guesswork and ferries can be a day or more late sodon’t be in a hurry.» Tickets Ticket purchasing procedures vary by port but foreigners always need topay with pristine US dollar bills, sometimes at the relevant IWT office. Agency bookingsaren’t possible and there are no seat reservations, indeed no seats whatever, just coldmetal decks.» Comfort You’ll generally need to sleep aboard at least one night, maybe three nightsnorthbound from Mandalay to Bhamo. A few simple cabins are available ($54, sharedtoilet) but most folk travel deck class (maximum fare $9) for which you’ll need your ownmat and bedding.» Provisions Snacks and drinks are sold aboard but they are comparatively pricey.Cheaper provisions are available once or twice a day when the ferry docks at intermediateports: sales-folk swarming aboard peddling fish on a stick, noodles and curries whileother vendors await on the shore.FAST BOATSLong covered motor boats carrying between 30 and 80 passengers. Departures are predictableand regular, either daily or at least every second day.» Routes Fast boats make one-day hops on the following sectors, always travelling byday (each sector will be in a different boat): Myitkyina–Sinbo (daily), Sinbo–Bhamo(daily), Bhamo–Shwegu–Katha (daily) and Katha–Mandalay (every second day).» Tickets Usually purchased just before departure, or one day before for Katha–Mandalay.» Comfort The wooden bench seats are small and often partly broken. Sitting on the flatroof can be more comfy if you have sufficient sunscreen but that’s not always an option.You’ll need to sleep at local hotels and guesthouses, which are very basic in Sinbo andKatha.» Provisions Bring plenty of drinking water. North of Bhamo there may be a lunch stopbut this can be cancelled if they are behind schedule and there are no vendors en route,so bring your own snacks. South of Bhamo, villagers aggressively peddle cheap mealbagsduring brief intermediate halts.LOCAL BOATSSimilar to fast boats but making shorter, local journeys and often dangerously overloaded.Foreigners are typically forbidden to use these.CRUISE BOATSSeveral cruise companies offer Ayeyarwady trips, albeit rarely more than a few times peryear. On such journeys your interaction with locals will be minimal. See the boxed text onp 214 for full details.Which Direction?Southbound: The rare handful of travellers who venture this way generally head south.That’s a sensible decision as you’ll be going with the current and each leg is quicker, thoughif you’re sticking with fast boats, the total number of days you’ll need remains the same.Northbound: Each leg takes more of your day and IWT ferries will take up to two days longernorthbound. You will almost certainly not meet any other foreigners on northbound boats.When to Go?Boats run all year between Mandalay and Bhamo.

239» Journeys are fastest in autumn when water levels are high.» In the winter tourist season there’s rarely a problem finding space aboard. Journeytimes lengthen as the river levels fall. By February, sandbanks mean that the IWT ferrywill have to moor overnight, adding up to a day to southbound journey times.» April is difficult with boats packed full of local travellers and ferries seriously overloaded.» Bhamo to Myitkyina can prove difficult due to very low water from May to July.» In summer, rain and high winds can make the passage very uncomfortable.Where to Start/Finish?North of Mandalay there are essentially only four realistic start/finish points for foreignerson the Ayeyarwady adventure:» Myitkyina Has the most reliable (if heavily booked) air connections plus several dailytrains from Mandalay. Decent accommodation is available. Myitkyina to Bhamo is theleast touristed river section and a forced stay in Sinbo is a great excuse to stay in a tinyroadless local village, if you can cope with the very basic accommodation there.» Bhamo No rail or bus link to Mandalay and the only air connection is an unpredictabletwice-weekly Myanma Airways flight (not recommended). However, accommodation isgood and you could fly to Myitkyina and connect to Bhamo by road. Bhamo to Kathais the most popular single section of river trip due to the (brief) drama of the seconddefile. Shwegu, part way, is an off-beat highlight.» Katha Popular for its George Orwell connections but accommodation is basic. Threedaily trains connect to Mandalay albeit at antisocial times and from a railhead 18 milesaway. River scenery south of Katha is initially lovely but there’s no easy jump-off point tillKyaukmyaung.» Kyaukmyaung Jumping off at this very interesting pottery town can make sense ifyou’re heading for Bagan, which you can reach across country via Shwebo, Monywa andPakokku. Continuing by boat to Mandalay you’ll pass Mingun but IWT ferries won’t stopthere.How Long Will It Take?The minimum time from Myitkyina to Mandalay by fast boat would be four days, or five ifyou arrived in Katha on the wrong day (services not daily). Adding a day in Katha is highlyadvised anyway, as is one day in Bhamo and one in Shwegu. You could save one day bydoing the Myitkyina–Bhamo section by road. If the dates work out (three sailings a week),the IWT ferry makes a more relaxing alternative to the fast boat on the Katha–Mandalaysection but takes a day longer southbound, maybe two days longer northbound.What Will I Need?» Plenty of time» A blanket and mat for IWT overnight boats» A cushion for fast boats» Several passport and visa photocopies (not essential for the boats themselves butneeded for some excursions and time-savers at police checks in places you might stopoff at)How Much Will It Cost?Factors to consider:» Budget accommodation for foreigners is limited in Myitkyina and Bhamo.» Fast-boat tickets are pricier than many travellers anticipate: the Myitkyina to Mandalayfast-boat fares add up to K66,000.» IWT ferries are cheaper but less frequent.» Be sure to bring sufficient cash – like anywhere in Myanmar there is no way to getcash transferred and while pristine US dollars can be exchanged in Myitkyina, Bhamoand Katha, rates will be relatively poor.MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER EATING MYITKYINA AYEYARWADY EATING

240NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYordering at) this attractive riverside place,hidden at the end of an improbable suburbanalley north of the Manao Park (around2 miles north of the centre). There’s also amore central branch but it’s without any ofthe charm.River View CHINESE $(Riverside; dim sum K500-700; h6am-10pm)Forgo your half-hearted hotel breakfastand stroll over to watch the sun rise fromthis open riverside terrace whose dim sumare the best in town. Numerous alternativesnacks are available and there’s a karaokesection at night. It’s directly south of themain vegetable market.Win Thu Zar BEER STATION $(Zyo Gyi St; draught beer K500; h10am-10pm)Facing the main market this attractive beergarden turns out typical barbecue offerings.Royal Kiss BAKERY, CAFE $(Swon Para Bwan St; snacks K500, coffee K600-1000; h9am-8pm) This conspicuous brightorangebakery bakes fluffy pastries andserves fresh fruit juices and real coffee (macchiatosK700). It’s near Myanma Airways.Bamboo Field Restaurant CHINESE $$(313 Pyi Htaung Su Rd; dishes K5000-9000, burgersK2000; h9am-10pm) On the main airportroad, four blocks northwest of the YMCA,the ‘attraction’ of this overpriced barn-like‘restobar’ is the nightly beauty-pageant-cumkaraokeshow by local girls (from 6.30pm).Night Market STREET FOOD $(Aung San Rd & Wai Maw St; h4.30-9.30pm)Stalls with various typical meals plus someKachin and Shan specialities.TRANSPORT OPTIONS TO MYITKYINA8InformationThe YMCA sells a K500 map of greater Myitkyinaand has a better street map on theirwall (albeit mostly in Burmese) that you canphotograph.MCC (Yan Aung Mien St; internet per hr K500)Fast connection, though several other internetplaces are more central.8Getting There & AwayAirOn arrival by air in Myitkyina you’ll be half-heartedlyquizzed by immigration police in the terminalbuilding. Then you walk out of the airportcompound before collecting your luggage. Don’tpanic – bags are delivered to a shed just outsidethe airport gates.Air Bagan (AB; %20308; Swon Para Bwan St;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)Book early.Myanma Airways (MA; %22545; hbookings8am-9.30am one day before flight) Tucked justoff Swon Para Bwan St, a half-block south ofAir Bagan, 200yd north of Myitkyina’s ‘second’(one-pole) clock tower. Schedules can beerratic, rather like the maintenance of theirgovernment-owned aircraft.There are fl ights to Myitkyina from the followingdestinations:Mandalay Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Fridayand Sunday ($95, AB); Monday, Wednesday,Friday and Saturday ($60, MA).Nay Pyi Taw Monday, Wednesday, Friday andSaturday ($95, MA).Putao Monday ($35, MA), Tuesday and Sunday($60, AB). With pre-arranged permits/touronly.Yangon Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday andSunday ($140, AB); Monday, Wednesday, Fridayand Saturday ($125, MA)The following table provides a quick comparison of the various ways of getting to Myitkyinafrom Mandalay. Ferry options will be faster southbound and in the rainy season (seeboxed text, p 239 for more details). All boat-ferry options require intermediate stops.TYPE OF TRAVEL DURATION FARE FREQUENCYAir 70min $60-95 nine flights weeklyBus not permitted not permittednot permittedFast boats 4-5 days K66,000 total see boxed text p 239Fast boats & bus 2-plus days K48,000 total alternate days on one sectionFerry & boats 6-plus days K30,000 plus $7 three ferries weeklyFerry & bus 5-plus days K12,000 plus $7 three ferries weeklyTrain 16-40hr $10-30 three daily

INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles southwest of Myitkyina, placid Indawgyi is the largest natural lake inMyanmar. The lakeshore is ringed by rarely visited Shan villages, and the surrounding IndawgyiWetland Wildlife Sanctuary provides a habitat for more than 120 species of birds,including shelducks, pintails, kingfishers, herons, egrets and the Myanmar peacock.The serene Shwe Myitsu Pagoda, on an island off Nam Tay village, seems to floaton the surface of the lake. The central, gilded stupa was constructed in 1869 to enshrineBuddha relics transported here from Yangon. Pilgrims visit in droves for the Shwe MyitsuPwe, held during the week before the full moon of Tabaung (March), at which time thelake waters are low enough for a walk along a seasonal causeway to the pagoda.During festival time you might be allowed to camp or bed down at Nam Tay monastery.At other times, however, the only licensed guesthouses are 12 miles away inLonton. Both are pretty basic. Indawa 2 (per person $10) has three rooms with attachedbathroom and is owned by a military family. Indawmaha (per person K7000) has eightrooms in a stilt building right at the water’s edge but is even more simple. Boat driverswant around K70,000 for day trips around the lake, or K20,000 for a return trip to thepagoda. Land-based tours around the lake shore are much cheaper.Two of the daily Myitkyina–Mandalay trains stop in Hopin, which is roughly halfwaybetween Myitkyina and Katha. From Hopin, overloaded pick-ups leave very occasionally forthe excruciatingly uncomfortable 28-mile trip to Lonton (K3000, 3½ hours). The alternative,chartering a 4WD for a three-day, two-night trip from Myitkyina (return or dropping you inKatha), will likely cost several hundred dollars. There’s a very rough road that continues allthe way to Khamti via the casino-filled jade-mining boom town of Hpakant (Pakkan) butforeigners can’t go anywhere beyond Nyaung Bin without very hard-to-score permits.BoatThe daily express boat, TO Sinbo, departsaround 8.30am (local/foreigner K4000/8000,fi ve hours) from Talawgyi pier. That’s a 20-minute,K5000 three-wheeler ride from town. InSinbo you’ll usually need to stay the night in theultra simple guesthouse before continuing nextmorning to Bhamo. For more information onboat travel, see p 239 .BusThe only bus route open to foreigners is the Myitkyina–Bhamoroute (K12,000, six hours) leavingMyitkyina at 7.30am from a dusty bus stand,just north of the centre off Tha Khin Net Phay Rd.Before getting aboard it’s essential to preparefi ve photocopies of the visa and ID pages fromyour passport to hand out at the various checkpointsen route. Attractive scenery.TrainThere are three daily trains to Mandalay (ordinary/upper/sleeper$10/27/30). Fast train‘38 Down’ departing 4.30am should arrive inMandalay at 8.30pm. The slower ‘56 Down’(departs 9.45am) and 58 Down (departs 1.45pm)stop at Naba (for Katha, ordinary/upper $4/11,9½ hours) and Hopin (ordinary/upper $2/6, 4½hours) where you could hop out for a few daysto make the very off-beat excursion to IndawgyiLake (see boxed text). All three trains stop inShwebo (Mandalay fares apply). Ordinary class isdesigned for sardine wannabes. Bring a blanketfor the cold nights, and motion sickness pills forthe incredible bouncing over warped rails.8Getting AroundMotorised three-wheelers (called thonbeecars:thoun means ‘three’, bein means ‘wheel’) carryingup to four people charge K3000 to/from theairport, K6000 to the boat jetty for Sinbo.Staff at the Xing Xian Hotel rent two bicyclesto guests. The YMCA can show you a nearby stallthat rents motorcycles for K10,000 per day.Around MyitkyinaMYIT-SON & JAW BUM¨mc'z®uAbout 27 miles north of Myitkyina, Myit-Son marks the point where the Mayhka andMalikha Rivers come together to form theAyeyarwady. It’s considered a local ‘beautyspot’, though ‘intriguing’ describes the ravagedscene better than ‘beautiful’. The confluencepoint is distantly overlooked by aseries of rough snack- and teahouses, a bigdumpling-shaped golden pagoda and a traditionalKachin longhouse rebuilt as a ‘culturalemblem’. However, more interesting isthe nearby purgatory of gold-panning outfitsMYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER 8 AROUND AYEYARWADY MYITKYINA 8

242NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYchurning up the muddy stream in accompanyingTang Phray village using semi-mechanisedbamboo-tower conveyor belts. You’llhave to hurry to see any of this. A vast damproject will eventually put the whole areaunder water, pagoda, village and all. The surreallyneat Aung Nge Tang ‘model village’,11km south of Myit-Son, is being built to rehousethe displaced villagers but so far looksfar from big enough to help all those affected.The road north of Myitkyina (boundeventually for Putao) has been newly rebuiltas far as the dam construction site,but the last 11km to Myit-Son are horrendouslybumpy. You’ll need a photocopy ofyour passport and visa to hand to a policecheckpoint en route. A motorbike/taxi fromMyitkyina costs around K15,000/50,000 return(1½ hours each way). For a token extrafee you can detour 1 mile off the main roadat Nawng Nang village to comically namedJaw Bum. Its name translates as ‘prayingmountain’ but it’s really only a fairly modesthill, a sacred site for Kachin and Lisu Baptists.In spite of its religious connections,most visitors here are amorous local coupleswho climb a repulsively ugly six-storey concreteviewing tower to observe and drop litteron a sweep of rural scenery.Myitkyina to BhamoTravelling by boat, the first day is through lowlying scenery that is not immediately memorablebut has the bonus of a forced stay inappealing Sinbo, a village that’s wonderfullyunspoilt apart from the piles of riverside rubbishthat mar almost every habitable areaalong the route. The Sinbo to Bhamo section,on smaller (25 plank-seat) longboats, spendsmost of the route traversing the Ayeyarwady’sFirst Defile where the river cuts through hillsshaggy with forest-bamboo mix, the boatstopping at isolated sandbanks to pick upgold-panners, rattan harvesters and cantileverfishermen. In the dry season the accessinto Bhamo can be complicated by weavingthrough a maze of very shallow sandbars.SINBOPOP C1700Taking the river route between Myitkyinaand Bhamo you’ll be forced to spend a nightin this delightfully car-less riverside village.Though conditions aren’t luxurious, the stopis actually a blessing in disguise – for sometravellers one of the highlights of the rivertrip. Founded as a teak station for the Scottishfirm Steel Brothers, Sinbo is a neat gridof unpaved streets, the mostly wood and parttimberhouses set amid coconut and toddypalms. There are no must-see sights but riverviews are mesmerising from the muddy lanethat climbs between the trio of old stupasand the 1919 British Officers’ Bungalow (nowfenced and out of bounds for military use) atthe south end of town. On arrival from Myitkyina,boats are usually met by Hla Tun, themanager of the one ultrasimple guesthouse(bed/dinner/breakfast K3000/2000/1500). It haseight hardboard-separated sleeping spacesover a party dining room featuring portraitsof Buddha, Jesus and Avril Lavigne. Deliciousdinners are cooked by Hla Tun’s wifeon a simple wood-stove out back.Bhamo (Banmaw)bn'"em;'%074 / POP C25,000For most travellers, Bhamo (‘ba-more’; Banmaw),is just a staging post on the riverjourney to Myitkyina or Mandalay. However,it’s an attractive little town that rewards atleast one day’s rest-stop. The bustling centralriverfront (Kannar Rd) features several oldstained-teak houses and is overhung withmagnificent mature ‘rain trees’, so named becausetheir lovely pink flowers bloom in themonsoon season. At the southern end of thisriverfront are dealerships selling great stacksof clay-pots including simple water carriersfrom Shwegu and giant glazed amphoraefrom Kyaukmyaung. Two short blocks eastthen one north on Lammataw Rd bringsyou to the main market (Thiri Yadana) fromwhich Sinbyushin St leading west becomesthe main road to Myitkyina and China. Itquickly passes Post Office St (for Grand Hotel,turn right after one block), the pre-dawnvegetable market and Letwet Thondaya Rd(for the Friendship Hotel, turn left after thesecond block). Around 500m further is thelarge, photogenic complex of TheindawgyiPaya featuring an elongated golden bellshapedgilded stupa. It’s best admired fromthe southeast across a pond lined with processingconcrete monk statues.About 3 miles north of town, beyond themilitary enclave, the much more historicShwe Kyina Pagoda has two gold-toppedstupas and marks the site of the 5th-centuryShan city of Sampanago (Bhamo MyoHaung, Old Bhamo). Almost nothing remainsof the old city, though locals remember nu-

merous remnant bricks and posts remaininginto the 1950s. If you know what you’re lookingfor you can still make out a section of 10fthighmud rampart where the lane aroundthe monastery cuts through it to the east, butyou’ll probably need a guide and the site ishardly memorable. Far more impressive is theawesome seasonal bamboo bridge (return tollwith bicycle K300) that allows you to make yourprecarious way across the wide Tapin River. Anice cycle ride is to continue over the bridgefor half an hour west through timeless Sinkinvillage and on to a brickworks from which a10-minute stairway climb takes you up TheinpaHill past a meditation hall to a stupa withvery attractive panoramas.TToursSein Win (%in China 0086-692 927 8557) ThisEnglish-speaking guide (K15,000 per daywithout transport) is an eccentric septuagenarian.His front room is dominated bythe helicopter he designed and built butnever flew for want of a sufficiently powerfulengine. At least not yet.4SleepingOnly two options accept foreigners. Both arecentral.oFriendship Hotel HOTEL $(%50095, in China 0086-692 687 6670; LetwetThondaya Rd; s/d/tr with shared bathroom $7/14/21,s/d with air-con $20/25; ai) This large, comfortableChinese-style hotel is truly excellentvalue for money with plenty of little extrasincluding in-room coffee, free water fill-ups,satellite TV and a basket of complimentarytoiletries. Even the basic rooms are wellmaintained, better ones have good linens anddecent mattresses and all qualify you for theexcellent buffet breakfast served in an appealingrooftop cafe. Helpful manager MoeNaing speaks fluent English. There’s an internetroom but don’t count on a connection.Grand Hotel HOTEL $$(%50317, in China 0086-692 688 1816; Post OfficeRd; s/d $15/20; a) Grand indeed is its modernlobby and blue-glass facade but the roomsare altogether more down-to-earth, andwhile reasonably well equipped, they are letdown by their musty bathrooms.5EatingThere’s a great new place for Burmese curryspreads(K2000) directly beside FriendshipHotel (south) while on the short diagonalstreet cutting behind that hotel (northeast)you’ll find a busy cafe, a popular beer-stationand barbecue place and a servery for precookedMuslim-Indian curries.Sein Sein CHINESE $(Kannar Rd; veg/nonveg dishes K1500/2000, riceK300; E) The old-fashioned dining room,rough round tables and beer-poster decorpromises little. However, the reliable Chinesefood is widely considered the best intown, there’s a menu in English (no prices)and there’s Dagon beer on draught (K600).It’s near the IWT office, and tantalisinglyclose to the river but without views.Arthan TEAHOUSE $(Kannar Rd; snacks K200; h5.30am-7pm) Justsouth of the riverbank pot-sellers’ stalls,this very basic teahouse is the only one withviews of the Ayeyarwady.8InformationFree town maps are available for guests at theFriendship Hotel. They are extremely useful, ifmisleadingly out of scale towards the edges.The prefi x %0086-692 denotes ‘China numbers’,which should be dialled from anotherChina-line phones (0086-692 numbers) to avoidpaying international call rates.8Getting There & AwayAirTheoretically the clunky government aircraft ofMyanma Airways (%50269; Kantawgyi St) fl yto Yangon ($120) via Mandalay ($45) on Thursdayand Sunday. Ticket sales are only possiblefrom 8am to 9.30am and 1pm to 4pm, one daybefore fl ying. Their offi ce is three blocks east ofthe market, up Sinbyushin St then half a blocksouth.BoatIWT FERRIES Pre-purchase tickets at IWT(%50117; Strand Rd; h9am-5pm), the woodenmansion with brick-columned overhang that’sset back opposite the Sikh Temple, just north ofthe central riverfront area. Departures (7am onMonday, Wednesday and Friday) are from a jetty2½ miles south of central Bhamo. Don’t forgetmats and bedding (see boxed text, p 239 ). Costsand very approximate timings (southbound, dryseason):Shwegu ($2, five hours)Katha ($4, 10 to 12 hours)Kyaukmyaung ($9, 22 to 30 hours).Mandalay (deck/cabin $9/54, 30 to 50 hours)243MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER TOURS BHAMO AYEYARWADY (BANMAW) TOURS

244NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYFAST BOATS In the rainy season most boats arefaster and there may be a direct seasonal fastboat to Mandalay departing at dawn.Katha Services (K15,000, around eight hours)via Shwegu (K7500, 2½ hours) depart 8.30amfrom the northern end of the central waterfront.Myitkyina Two-day trip starts with the 9.30amboat to Sinbo (p 242 , K7000, six hours), departingfrom the middle of the central waterfront.Bus & Pick-Up TrucksMyitkyina Bus leaves at 7am (K12,000, sixhours) from Bawdi St, around 400m southof Friendship Hotel. Book one evening ahead(hotels can help) and prepare five photocopiesof your visa and passport for checkpoints.Mandalay via Shwegu No foreigners.TrainA Katha–Bhamo railway is under construction.8Getting AroundLOCAL TRANSPORT Motorcycle/threewheelertaxis cost K1000/2000 to the airport,K2000/3000 to the IWT ferry dock.BICYCLE Rent from Breeze Coffee & Cold(Letwet Thondaya Rd; per day K2000;h8.30am-7pm), a small shop almost oppositeFriendship Hotel.PICK-UP TRUCKS Intervillage pick-ups (called‘Hilux’ after the vehicle brand) are an unusualmongrel where the rear section is a goods carriagewith seats fi xed high on the roof as thoughfor a safari. Dangerously top-heavy.Around BhamoPopular with Chinese visitors and local weekenders,Stone Village is a picnic spot wherea thatched-roof karaoke restaurant overlooksa mountain stream cascading between largeboulders. The scene is pretty enough but onlyreally worth the trip if you’re desperate for atime-filler. If so, do also take a look at someof the water-powered cottage industries inKyauk Sahan, the village where Stone Village’shalf-mile access track branches offthe newly cobbled China-bound road, 15miles east of Bhamo. The China-bound roadbranches off the Bhamo–Myitkyina road atMomauk where there are teahouses and(just east) some attractive rice-paddy scenes.Bhamo to KathaBetween Bhamo and Shwegu, the sceneryreaches a modest climax in the short SecondDefile where the Ayeyarwady passesthrough a wooded valley with a rocky cliffface at one section (often described misleadinglyas a gorge).SHWEGUer¯kU%074 / POP 15,000Every year around a dozen foreign travellersjump ship at historic Shwegu, a long ribbonof township, known for its elegantly unfussypottery and for the fabled Shwe Baw Kyunemonastery on mid-river Kyundaw (‘Royal’)Island. Few locals speak English.1SightsShwe Baw KyuneBUDDHIST MONASTERYAlthough at first glance this monastery looksostensibly 20th-century, historians say itwas built in the 13th century while monasticfables suggest that the place was foundedsome two millennia ago when an Indianprince turned up with seven holy bone fragmentsof the Buddha. These are now encasedwithin small buddha statuettes that have becomelumpily unrecognisable with centuriesof added gold leaf and form the monastery’spriceless main treasure (dattaw).However, for non-Buddhists, visiting themonastery is far more interesting for itsextraordinary array of over 7000 closelypacked stupas, ancient and modern, whichfill the eastern end of the island. Some arewhitewashed, others gilded and many moreare mere piles of antique bricks with justtraces of former stucco detail. Most appearto have been suffocated for years by foliage,Angkor Wat style. The bushes were recentlycut back to reveal the spectacle, but gettingto the outlying stupas is very uncomfortablebarefoot given all the stubble and thorns(carry your sandals).Hidden here and there are dozens of tinybuddha statues and the odd brick-and-stuccolion, The whole scene is made even morephotogenic by a series of pyathak (steppedtowers) that flank the monastery’s centralgolden tipped stupa. And the island setting,with its tree shaded village of wooden stilthouses, makes for a wonderfully peaceful environment.There’s a big local festival here inthe week leading up to full moon of Tabaung.Old ShweguNEIGHBOURHOODShwegu town is a narrow riverside stripextending around 3 miles along the Ayeyarwady’srubbish strewn southern bank.Around 400yd west of the central jetty is anarea of relatively old town including severalwooden houses along the riverfront road. A

lock inland from there are the hotels on abusy new road but behind there is an areaof tree-shaded footpaths and alleys thatforms an intriguing pottery district. Here, inhousehold compounds, Shwebo’s archetypaltau ye-u (drinking water pots) and subu(football-sized piggy banks) are formed andfired in kilns of carefully heaped rice-husks.An Daw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEThis eye-catching ornate pagoda lies in a ruralmainland field, directly across the riverfrom Shwe Baw Kyune and around 2 mileseast of central Shwegu. Motorcycles chargeK1000 to get there but finding one to comeback can be tricky.4Sleeping & EatingTwo guesthouses face each other whereBhamo–Mandalay buses stop. Mya MyintMo (%52134; per person K4000) is the betterdeal but given the bureaucratic headachethat hosting foreigners causes the owners,you shouldn’t expect an over-enthusiasticwelcome. Rooms are basic, but survivable,turquoise boxes sharing simple bathroomfacilities. It’s 10 minutes’ walk from the jettyarea: walk west, turn left at the roundaboutthen right and it’s 50yd beyond the entranceto Mingala Monastery amid a gaggle ofteahouses and snack stalls.8 Getting There & AwayFast boats leave for Bhamo (K7500, 2½ hours)around 1.30pm and Katha (K9000, four hours)around 11.30am. Foreigners may not take theother local village-to-village boat services.Curiously, Shwegu agents were prepared to sellus tickets on the normally locals-only Bhamo–Mandalay bus services that arrive southboundaround 3pm. However, we have no confi rmedreports of any foreigner successfully completingthe Shwegu–Mandalay trip by road.8 Getting AroundFrom a logging jetty 300yd west of An Daw Paya,an open longboat ferries passengers across toShwe Baw Kyune (K500/4000 per person/boat,four minutes). A much more convenient option isto charter your own boat directly from Shwegu’scentral jetty taking around 15 minutes each way.A K10,000 return charter should include severalhours’ wait while you explore the island.Kathaks;%074 / POP C12,000Literature lovers and boat bums may enjoythis small but lively Ayeyarwady port town.It’s a forced stop if you’re travelling the riverin fast-boat hops, a pleasant optional hop-offif you’re on the IWT ferry, and there’s a raillink to Mandalay if you’re fed up with the riveraltogether. The guesthouses and variousboat ticket sales booths are close togetheralong three short central blocks of StrandRd, the attractive curving riverside road.1SightsIn 1926 and 1927, Katha was briefly home toBritish colonial police officer Eric Blair. Betterknown by his pen name, George Orwell,Blair used the outpost as the setting for hisnovel Burmese Days. Several Orwell-relatedbuildings that featured in the book are stillstanding but none are marked as such andnone are commercialised tourist attractions,so ask politely before trying to barge in. Thehalf-timbered former British Club, now usedas an association office, is tucked away 100ydbehind the 1924 Tennis Club on a street appropriatelycalled Klablan (Club St). A blocknorth the 1928 DC’s House was actuallycompleted just after Orwell’s stay but its unmistakablestyle would fit McGregor and itssorry state of decline is symptomatic. Threefamilies now live within and Daw Wei WeiDwin sometimes shows visitors into the original(much decayed) hall-drawing room. Twoblocks south, Orwell would have lived at thecomfy, two storey police commissioner’shouse, which is still used as such (so it’s notadvisable to knock on the door). Directlynorthwest, the Orwell-era St Paul’s AnglicanChurch collapsed in 2007 and has nowbeen replaced by a new church part-sponsoredby troops from the Royal Sussex Regimentin appreciation of the hospitality theyreceived in Katha during Christmas 1944.There are several attractive temples at thesouthern end of town near the prison.4Sleeping & EatingOnly two of Katha’s guesthouses accept foreigners.Neither have private bathrooms noroffer breakfast. Both are within 60yd of eachother on the riverfront and both are best (albeitnoisy) if you can score one of a handfulof rooms with river views.Ayarwady Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%25140; Strand Rd; per person K5000-7000) Thebetter of the two, the Ayarwady is an oldwooden rooming house with half-heartedlywhitewashed hardboard room dividers, butthe better options have windows and clean-245MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER SIGHTS KATHA AYEYARWADY SIGHTS

246NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYing is relatively thorough. The owners speaka little English.Annawah Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%25146; Strand Rd; per person K5000) Annawahis more off-puttingly chaotic than the Ayarwady:its downstairs rooms are dark, upstairsones include some truly minuscule cupboardlikebed-spaces and the ragged stairwaybodes ill. However, a couple of upper, frontfacingrooms are OK for a night or two. Thepot-bellied owner speaks no English but is adistinctive character and bears a few passingsimilarities to Orwell’s antihero U Po Kyin.Sein Restaurant CHINESE $$(veg/meat/fish dishes K1200/2000/4000; h8am-8pm; E) This older two-room shophouse hasa degree of character in its older half andserves consistently good Chinese fare. It’sjust off the night-market street, three streetsinland from the Ayarwady Guest House.Shwe Sisa BEER STATION $(Strand Rd; draught beer K600; h9am-10pm) Brewwith a view. Perched over the riverside a blocksouthwest of the guesthouses, Shwe Sisa alsobarbecues fresh tasty ‘Slavia’ fish, said to haveinvaded the Ayeyarwady River having beenoriginally introduced from Yugoslavia.8Getting There & AwayBoatIWT FERRYTickets are only available around an hourbefore departure, bought from the IWT office(%25057; Strand Rd) opposite the main jetty.Mandalay Departs around 5pm Monday,Wednesday and Friday (deck/cabin class$7/42). Takes around 40 hours in the dry season(two nights aboard), much less when wateris high and the boat can sail by night.Bhamo Departs Monday, Thursday and Saturday,timings unpredictable ($4).FAST BOATMandalay Departs every second day at 5am,arrives around 6.30pm (K36,000).Bhamo Departs daily at 8am (K15,000); arrivesin Shwegu at 1.30pm and Bhamo around 4pm.TrainThe nearest train station on the Mandalay–Myitkyinamainline is at Naba, 16 miles west of Katha.There is a daily Katha–Naba connecting train(1¼ hours) leaving Katha at 1pm and Naba at9am. Local buses (K1000) also connect the twotowns timed to meet arriving trains. A charteredKatha–Naba taxi costs around K30,000.Trains from Naba (according to the stationmasterin Katha):Northbound Departures 11.30pm and 3.30am(plus 7.30am local) to Hopin and Myitkyina.Southbound Departures 6pm and 10.30pm(plus 2.30pm local) to Shwebo and Mandalay.Katha to KyaukmyaungIWT ferries tend to sail the section southof Katha in the dark, but the area has someof the Ayeyarwady’s more appealing landscapeswith several pagoda-topped hills andthatched villages. The first stop is Ti Kyaing(pronounced ‘t’chine’; Htigyaing,) where adouble row of riverfront thatched woodenstilt houses leads north from the jetty, a monasteryhill rises directly above and there’s alarge reclining Buddha on the next hillnortheast.Further south the landscape becomesmore monotonous towards Tagaung, whichgave its name to a whole era of Burmese history,but has not much to show for it.Kyaukmyaung%075 / POP C10,000ekY;k'e¨m;='"The last major IWT stop before Mandalayis Kyaukmyaung, famous for its distinctiveglazed pottery. That is produced in the delightfulNgwe Nyein district, a 20-minutestroll south along the Ayeyarwady riversidefrom central Kyaukmyaung’s attractivetriple-stupa, Nondo Zedi. Traffic en route ismainly a procession of ox carts carrying faggotsor rice husks for pot-firing.Beyond Letyway Kyaunggyi monasteryyou’ll see almost every open space filledwith large amphorae waiting to be shippedon river barges. Homes, some of them oldwooden affairs with distinctive portal-arches,double as storefronts selling vases, jugsand mustard pots (from K200). Althoughsome are vivid green (notably big owl-figurevases) archetypal Kyaukmyaung designs areusually glazed a rich glossy brown that’scasually daubed swirls of beige-yellow, thelatter apparently taking its colour from oldbatteries.The pottery district stretches nearly amile further south, to and beyond the brutalgash of the new Ayeyarwady bridge site. Enroute are a few crumbling old stupas whilea block or two inland, several ‘factories’ arehoused in bamboo thatched barns. These

IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dolphin is one of Myanmar’smost endangered animals. Thissmall cetacean has a short, roundedsnout like a beluga whale and huntsusing sonar in the turgid waters oflakes and rivers. In the past, dolphinsand humans were able to coexist quitepeacefully – there are even reports ofdolphins deliberately herding fish intonets – but the use of gill nets and thepoisonous run-off from gold mining hasdriven the dolphin onto the criticallyendangered list. A 2003 survey estimateda population of just 59 dolphinsin the river for which they are named.Yet sightings do still occur and since2005 a 45-mile stretch of river south ofKyaukmyaung has been designated asa dolphin protection zone.can shelter as many as 60 potters working athand-turned or foot-turned wheels. Visitorsare generally welcome to nose around andyou’ll also see kilns, drying yards and pilesof rough clay being chopped.4Sleeping & EatingKyaukmyaung has one ultra simple guesthouse(per person K1500) but it isn’t licensedfor foreigners so you’ll normally be expectedto sleep in nearby Shwebo, 18 miles west.However, the plodding local police will usuallymake exceptions if your river ferry happensto arrive here at an antisocially latehour. The guesthouse, unmarked in English,is down an alley just inland from themain junction (riverside and Shwebo roads).Almost at the ferry jetty, the restaurantmarked with a diamond graphic is run bylocal character Sein Win who speaks someEnglish.8Getting There & AwaySouthbound Katha–Mandalay express boatsusually get here midafternoon, arriving at acentral jetty three minutes’ walk north of NondoZedi. IWT river ferries also stop here but timingscan be highly erratic. Buses to Mandalay(K2200, four hours) via Shwebo (K500, onehour) depart at 5.45am, 6.45am and 7.45amfrom the market area, just inland from NondoZedi. Other buses and pick-ups to Shwebo leaveat least hourly until 3pm.Shweboer¯.ui%075 / POP C40,000Between 1752 and 1755, the leader of littleMoksobo village, Aung Zeya, revived Burmeseprestige by fighting off both Manipuriand Bago-Mon armies. Rebranding himselfKing Alaungpaya (or Alaungmintayagyi), hisshort reign transformed formerly obscureMoksobo into glittering Shwebo (‘GoldenLeader’), which became, until his death in1760, the capital of a newly reunified Burma.These days Shwebo makes relatively littleof its royal history and few foreign touristsbother making a special excursion to see itsrecently reconstructed palace. However, ifyou’re jumping off an Ayeyarwady ferry atKyaukmyaung, Shwebo makes a pleasantenough staging point from which to reachBagan (via Monywa and Pakokku) withoutreturning to Mandalay. Shwebo is locallyfamed for snakes and thanakha (see boxedtext) and some visitors consider it goodluck to take home some earth from ‘VictoryLand’, as Shwebo has been known sinceAlaungpaya’s time.1SightsShwe Daza PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEAs you approach from the south, centralShwebo’s skyline is given a very alluringdazzle by a collection of golden pagodaspires. These cluster around the extensive,500-year-old Shwe Daza Paya and lookequally evocative when viewed from therooftop of the Win Guest House. Closer to,however, the complex feels a little anticlimactic.Across the road, Chanthaya PayaSHWEBO THANAKHAWherever you go in Myanmar you’llfind hawkers selling thanakha, thesandalwood-like logs that are groundto a paste and smeared on the skin asubiquitous sun-block and moisturiser.However, Shwebo’s thanakha is consideredthe country’s sweetest smelling,forms the subject of a famous folk songand if you want a gift to delight guesthousegrandmas elsewhere in Myanmar,you won’t find better. You’ll find itsold on the southern approach cloisterto Shwe Daza Paya.247MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER SLEEPING SHWEBO AYEYARWADY & EATING SLEEPING & EATING

‚Shwe Daza Paya StMoat248NORTHERN MYANMAR MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADYShwebo1MahalpandulaRd ú#8Yan Gyi Aung StLetwei Thondara StAlaung Paya St66# ÿ23A#›110 200 m#e 0 0.1 milesB# ÿ6Schwebo TaungCanal6#ÿ4Mayawady StBen ShweThiStAung Zeya StDhamma ThukaStû#9To KyaukmyaungÜ## Ú ShwekyettoPaya # ñ(18mi)Naungdawgyi Rdú#710#›TicketOffice # #æ 1Zeigyo2 # Ú(CentralPalaceMarket)Myo# îGroundsHosptialMa# ð # ÿShwe5Kyet # ÚÜ#Taung ChanthayaPayaPaya# Ú# Ú3‚To Monywa(64mi)Mandalay(71mi)A‚‚‚‚To Hanlin(12mi)Bhas an abandoned wooden monastery dormitorythat’s precariously close to collapse.Shwebon YadanaPALACE(admission incl Hanlin $5; h7.30am-5.30pm) Thecity’s most striking buildings are a pairof towering gold-painted wooden thronerooms, nine-tiers high. These would havebeen the centrepiece of the King Alaungpaya’s1753 palace complex. However, inthe British era, the originals were replacedby a jail. What you see today are recentlyreconstructed structures. They are undoubtedlyphotogenic but have no furnishingsand if you’re not planning on visiting Hanlin(p 249 ), the entry fee seems farcically high –try peeping over the wall from the west toget an idea for free. If you do pay up, theticket also includes entry to a two-roommuseum displaying assorted archaeologicalfinds, manuscript chests and Alaungpaya’sroyal palanquin.Old City MoatNEIGHBOURHOODIn its 18th-century heyday, the palace wasat the heart of an enormous walled city. Thewall is now almost entirely invisible butsome sections of the wide moat are well preserved.The road to Kyaukmyaung crossesone section beside Yan Gyi Aung Park butmore attractive is the area around 2 miles‚123Shweboæ Sights1 Palace Museum ................................... A12 Schwebon Yadana...............................A23 Shwe Daza Paya ..................................A2ÿ Sleeping4 Shwe Phyu Guest House..................... B15 Win Guest House .................................A26 Zinwailar Guesthouse ......................... B1ú Eating7 Eden Culinary Garden ......................... B18 SSD Garden Restaurant...................... A1û Drinking9 Melody Music Garden ......................... B1ï Transport10 Buses to Kyaukmyaung ...................... A111 Main Bus Station .................................A3north of town where the moat is crossed bya road causeway near Maw Daw Myin ThaPaya, a pagoda built by Alaungpaya andguarded by giant chinthe.4SleepingWin Guest House HOTEL $$(%22049; Aung Zeya St; s/d $20/30, with sharedbathroom $10/20) Fresh, clean and unusuallyairy, the standard rooms are boxy but brightand share communal showers that are spotlessand spacious. A handful of top-floorrooms have private bathroom, air-conditioningand satellite TV (but no hot water). SomeEnglish is spoken and the staff is reasonablyaccustomed to dealing with foreigners. Thenobby-looking 2007 building is handily closeto the market area.Shwe Phyu Guest House HOTEL $(%22264; Yan Gyi Aung St; s/d K12,000/20,000,with shared bathroom K7000/14,000) Betterrooms have an en-suite squat, cold shower,cobwebs and geckos. Floors are neatly tiledand the manager speaks English but theroad outside is as noisy as the beer stationopposite. The similar Zinwailar Guesthouse,nearby, has a couple of rooms with air conditioning.5Eating & DrinkingOpen-air food stands set up shop aroundthe market, especially after dusk. There’s asprinkling of restaurants along Aung Zeya

St, with many beer stations in the northernquarter and along Yan Gyi Aung St.Eden Culinary Garden CHINESE $(Aung Zeya St; veg/meat mains K1500/2500;h7am-9pm; E) The English-language menuis a rarity, typical Chinese fare comes in largeportions with soup and small salad, and theWestern ‘breakfasts’ include hamburger.The restaurant’s pleasant courtyard twinkleswith fairy lights in the foliage though it isn’treally quite a garden.SSD Garden CHINESE $$(Shwekyettho Pagoda Rd; mains K2000-4000;h11am-9pm) Peaceful and spacious with similarfood to Eden but little English.Melody Music Garden BEER STATION $(Yan Gyi Aung St; draught Tiger K750; h9am-10pm)Ice-cold beer and partially obscured moatviews. Bring mosquito repellent.8InformationTSS Internet (Ben Shwe Thi St; per hr K400;h8am-last customer) Connection better atnight8Getting There & AwayBusMAIN BUS STATIONMandalay At least hourly until 3.30pm (K1700,three to four hours). Bumpy sections.Monywa Minibuses plus some buses at leasthourly from 5am to 1pm plus 3pm (K1100, 3½hours). After the potholed first hour the routeis smoother and offers a very attractive viewof rural life.MARKET AREAKyaukmyaung Departs roughly half-hourly ondecent asphalt (K500, one hour).TrainMandalay Departs 7.05pm, midnight, 2am and6.10am (ordinary/1st class $2/4, 3½ to fivehours)Myitkyina Via Naba (for Katha) and Hopin(for Indawgyi Lake). Departs at 3pm, 7.25pmand 10.17pm (cheapest). Fast train (ordinary/upper/sleeper $11/26/29) departs 7am, arrives8pm; doesn’t stop at Naba.8Getting AroundA trishaw or motorbike ride from either stationto the centre costs around K1000. Hotel staffcan often arrange informal bicycle hire.Around ShweboHANLINPOP C4000hn'l='"An almost imperceptible rise means thatthe diffuse, very attractive village of Hanlin(Halingyi, Halin, Halim) sits very slightlyabove the pan-flat surrounding plains. Forcenturies this geographical advantage wasdeeply significant and the site has been inhabitedfor millennia. The few foreign visitorswho do brave seriously rough roads toget here, come to visit the area’s variousarchaeological diggings. But before leavingShwebo be sure to visit Shwebon Yadanaand warn the archaeological office there thatyou will be visiting Hanlin. Otherwise, yourunannounced arrival is likely to conjure up aband of police, immigration officers and assortedtry-to-help guides, scrambling to findsomeone who can sell you a ticket and verifyyour identity.Archaeological Zone ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES(admission $5, free with Shwebon Yadana ticket)Crowning the rise above Hanlin village andsurveying the plains for a surprising distance,archaeologists have found large, lowsections of brickworks that once formedpart of a wall enclosing a complex that was2 miles wide and 1 mile long, dating backto the Pyu era (4th to 9th centuries AD). Intotal there are, so far, 32 excavation sitesscattered over many miles, many of whichhave yielded pottery and coins from variousepochs. Several excavated grave sites canbe visited. To nonspecialists, these tend tolook relatively similar (metal-roofed barnscovering in-situ skeletons whose depth is aguide to their antiquity), so if you don’t wantto spend hours seeing everything, considermaking a beeline for Site 29 where one canstill see the ornaments and weapons withwhich the bodies were buried.The excavations are thinly spread overseveral square miles, so you’ll need wheels.To find the way, an archaeology departmentfixer should accompany you (K1000 extra)but if you can’t cope with an all-in-Burmeseexperience, freelance local guide Toe Myintcan speak basic English and may offer to accompanyyou for around K5000. Key-holdersat each sub-site also expect a tip, whichis a good way of benefiting the community(your $5 entry fee goes to the government’sarchaeology department).249MYITKYINA NORTHERN MYANMAR & THE UPPER 8 AROUND AYEYARWADY SHWEBO 8

250NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOHanlin VillageVILLAGEComing all this way without visiting the archaeologicalsites would seem inexplicable,but Hanlin village is nonetheless a magicalplace in its own right. Unpaved ox-cart trackslink an incredible plethora of decaying oldstupas that create the feeling of an untouchedmini-Bagan. This is best appreciated whenthe scene is viewed from behind Maung SanMonastery with its obvious golden zedi.Near the market is a collection of inscribedsteles and stone slabs in now-forgotten Pyuscript. Within the Nyaung Kobe Monastery(donation expected), a museum room displaysvarious ancient, but unlabelled, archaeologicalfinds. Another minor attraction is thelittle hot spring area where villagers collectwater from circular concrete-sided well-poolsand bathe in two bigger basin-pools.8 Getting There & AwayHanlin is about 12 butt-kicking miles southeast ofShwebo. Follow the canal beside the bus stationfor 6 miles to Bo Tè village, then turn left (acrossthe canal) on the fi rst signifi cant road. This soondegenerates into an outrageously rutted ox-carttrack that is very slowly being regraded. Forkleft at the only other junction. Coming by car orthree-wheeler would be excruciatingly uncomfortableon these tracks. It’s marginally lesspainful by motorcycle: with a driver you’ll pay atleast K12,000 return from Shwebo.MANDALAY TO LASHIOFor an easy escape from the heat and smogof Mandalay, do what the colonial Brits alwaysdid – nip up to Pyin Oo Lwin. And onceyou’ve got going, why not continue furtheracross the cool Shan Plateau to discoversome of Southeast Asia’s most satisfyingshort hill-tribe treks from Kyaukme or Hsipaw.But bring a decent fleece: although daysare warm, it gets chilly after dark and canbe downright cold at 5am when buses departand markets are at their candlelit best.Pyin Oo Lwin¨p='wI"lâ='%085 / POP C70,000 / ELEV 3445FTFounded by the British in 1896, the town wasoriginally called Maymyo (‘May-town’), afterColonel May of the 5th Bengal Infantry andwas designed from its inception as a placeto escape the Mandalay heat. Following theIndian-raj terminology for such places, ithas ever since been known as a ‘hill station’,though in fact it’s almost entirely flat (just atraised elevation). After the construction ofthe railway from Mandalay, Maymyo becamethe summer capital for the British colonialadministration, a role it held until the end ofBritish rule in 1948. The name was changedafter the British departed but numerous colonialhalf-timbered buildings remain. So toodo the descendents of the Indian and Nepaliworkers who came here to lay the railway line.In later decades, Pyin Oo Lwin was famousmostly for its fruit, jams, vegetablesand fruit wines. And the huge militaryacademies, built here to train the soldiers ofthe Tatmadaw (Myanmar Army). However,as Myanmar gets a new breed of nouveauriche, Pin Oo Lwin is once again becominga popular weekend and hot-season getaway.The town is seeing a burst of investment,roads are getting busier and constructionis beginning to fill up the once generoustree-shaded spaces between mansions in thewealthy southern quarter. Come quickly toexperience what’s left of the old calm.1SightsGetting around town by horse and cart addsto the nostalgic atmosphere, and by suitablymanoeuvring the buggy you can addforeground interest to photos of the variouscolonial buildings.Town CentreMarking the town centre is the Purcell Towera 1936 clock tower which thinks that it’s BigBen, judging from its quarter-hourly chimes.Around 6am, the pretty Maha Aung Mye BonThar Pagoda insists on broadcasting Buddhistlectures through its loudspeakers just incase you weren’t already awake. The most importantcentral pagoda is Shwezigone Paya,though it’s not worth a special detour.The red brick, Anglican All Saints’Church (Ziwaka St; hservices at 8.30am Sun,7am Wed) was originally built in 1912 as theregimental church for Maymyo.GARDENS AREAoNational Kandawgyi Gardens PARKamY¬i"s;"kn'et;'äkI"wyY;w''(Nandan Rd; adult/child under 12yr/camera $5/2/1;h8am-6pm) Founded in 1915 (though onlyofficially recognised from 1924), this lovinglymaintained 435-acre botanical garden featuresmore than 480 species of flowers, shrubsand trees. For casual visitors its most appeal-

TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY–LASHIO ROUTE251Factors to consider:» If you want to cross the Chinese border, you’ll need to get permits and do weeks ofplanning (see the boxed text, p 267 )» Flying to/from Lashio is worth considering as a quick, comfortable way to link Hsipawwith Inle Lake or Yangon.» The Mandalay–Lashio railway journey is extraordinarily slow and bouncy enough toinspire seasickness. However, it does offers trainspotters the joy of crossing the remarkableGokteik Viaduct (see boxed text, p 256 ) between Kyaukme and Pyin Oo Lwin.» Cool, fresh Pyin Oo Lwin is barely two hours’ drive from Mandalay.» Contrary to what most Mandalay guesthouse owners will tell you, there is now anafternoon bus to Hsipaw (leaving Mandalay at 3.30pm).ing aspect is the way flowers and overhangingbranches frame views of Kandawgyi Lake’swooden bridges and small gilded pagoda.Admission costs include use of the swimmingpool, visits to the aviary (h8am-5pm), orchidgarden, butterfly museum (h8.30am-5pm)and the bizarre Nan Myint Tower (hlift operatestill 5pm). Looking like a space-rocketdesigned for a medieval Chinese Emperor,this 12-storey structure offers panoramicviews which are better appreciated from theexternal staircase than through the greasesmearedwindows of the observation deck.Annoyingly you can’t use your bicycle toget around the extensive site so bring walkingshoes and allow around two hours to doit justice. Using the southern entrance slightlyreduces the walking you have to do. By6pm either gate will likely be locked so watchthe time – there are no closure warnings.The garden’s two entrances are both onthe eastern side of Kandawgyi Lake, arounda mile south of smaller Kandawlay Lake.National Landmarks GardenMUSEUM(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) This extensivehilly park is dotted with representations offamous landmarks from around Myanmar,in a selection of different scales. Some arepretty tacky. The entrance is across the mainroad from National Kandawgyi Gardens, alittle to the north of their southern (main)entrance. There is also an amusement park(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) around 500 yardfurther north.Circular RoadNEIGHBOURHOODA good sprinkling of Pyin Oo Lwin’s trademarkcolonial era buildings lie dottedamid the southeastern woodland suburbsas you’ll see if you cycle Circular or ForestRoads round to the Candacraig Hotel or thesplendid former Croxton Hotel (GandamarMyaing Hotel; Circular Rd). Some look like 1920sBritish homes, others like Louisiana plantationhouses and the biggest have the air ofSt Trinian’s, as with Number 4 High School(Circular Rd) and the Survey Training Centre(Multi-Office Rd). Up near the Shan Market, afine half-timbered mansion is now a SeventhDay Adventist Church (Cherry St).Chan TakCHINESE TEMPLE(134 Forest Rd) This large, classically styled,if mostly modern, Chinese temple comescomplete with ornate stucco dragons, rockgardens, a vegetarian buffet restaurant, landscapedponds and a seven-layered Chinesestylepagoda.Candacraig HotelHISTORIC BUILDING(Thiri Myaing Hotel; %22047; Anawrattha Rd; s/d$42/48) Formerly the British Club, this classiccolonial pile comes complete with sideturrets and is set in attractively manicuredgardens. It makes a popular film set forBurmese movie-makers. However, many localsbelieve the building to be haunted, andWesterners tend to avoid it due to its governmentaffiliation (see p 21 ), so it is not unusualto find the eight slightly discoloured guestrooms mostly unoccupied. Disappointinglythere’s no raj-redolent bar.2 ActivitiesThe 18-hole Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club(%22382; Golf Club Rd; green fee $10, caddy $4,club hire $5, shoe hire $1; h6am-6pm) is one ofMyanmar’s better golf courses. However, it’sgovernment run (see p 21 ) and has a strictdress code with collars, caps and rubberspikedshoes compulsory.MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO ACTIVITIESPYIN OO LWIN

252Pyin Oo Lwin #e 0 500 mAStation31#BTo Train Station‚0 0.2 milesCDStation RdNORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIO1232## ñ33# ˜# ð19 25 # û# ú14 ß## ÿ 12# ÿ 729##á Night# þ27Market28 # þ 21## þ# ü ú # Þ 3024# # þ26#ò# Ú5Mandalay-Lashio Rd# Ü# æ# Ü 1663î#3ÿ#11Royal# Ú 3Reward# ÿResort66#15ÿ# ð# ú2366# æTo National Kandawgyi2Gardens, Kandawgyi4Hill Resort, Win Unity#æ4418#ú16Hotel # ÿ1317 # ÿ(100m)# ÿPyin Oo LwinTo Hiromi Cafe66Golf Club # ú20(200m)6ABCD4Sleepingsigns of wear but this remains a great valueMany of Pin Oo Lwin’s cheaper hotels aren’t midrange option with breakfast served onlicensed to accommodate foreigners. Staying the rooftop with its wide city views. Fridgein the leafy gardens area south of the centre and air-conditioning but no heating. Whenis a distinctively Pyin Oo Lwin experience; demand is low, single occupancy costs $15.however, before heading out there, consider Golden Dream Hotel HOTEL $renting a bicycle. And carry a head-torch – (%21302; 42/43 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; s/d $6/12,those roads get very dark at night. Staying with shared bathroom $5/10) For the price thiscentrally is less evocative but more convenientfor transport, shops and internet cafes. vivable and while the colours aren’t pretty,is about the best you’ll find – perfectly sur-Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is includedin quoted rates.unbearably saggy. There are even windowsthe walls are reasonably clean and beds notin most rooms unlike the gruesomely discoloured,yet similarly priced, Grace 2 Hotelnext door.PALACE HILLAureum Governor’s House HOTEL $$$(%21901; www.aureumpalacehotel.com/pyinoolwin-index.htm; off Mandalay Hwy; bungalows/ste$75/180) Whatever you may think of tycoonTay Za, there’s no doubt that this painstak-Mandalay-LashioRd(Main Rd)NanMyaing StAung Zay Ya Hwy RdZiwaka StG olf Club RdSandar Rd5th StZeigyo RdTOWN CENTREBravo Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$(%21223; www.bravo-hotel.com; Mandalay-LashioRd; r $25) Earthenware amphorae, ornateteak chests and carved gilded panel-workcreate the idea of a boutique hotel, a notionmaintained (if somewhat diluted) inthe comfortable rooms by brick- or bamboo-effectwallpaper. There are a few early‚666Shan# ð# þMarketFootballPitch9# ÚChurch of theImmaculateConception# ÜMulti-Office Rd‚Aung# Ú ChanthaPaya666Bogyoke St10Zay Thit Rd22#úCircular Rd# ð8 # æ# Ü# æ 6Forest Rd12

Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Restaurant..................................B21 All Saints' Church .................................. A3 20 Feel ..........................................................B42 Candacraig Hotel................................... D4 21 Golden Triangle Café .............................A23 Chan Tak ................................................ D3 22 Sain Mya Ayar.........................................C24 Former Croxton Hotel........................... C4 23 Woodland................................................C45 Maha Aung Mye Bon TharPagoda................................................. B3 ûüDrinking6 Number 4 High School.......................... D2 24 Golden Lion.............................................A27 Purcell Tower......................................... B2 25 Win Thu Zar ............................................B28 Seventh Day AdventistChurch................................................. D2 þ Shopping9 Shwezigone Paya .................................. C2 26 Central Market .......................................B210 Survey Training Centre......................... C3 27 Liqueur Corner .......................................B228 Pacific World Curio ................................A2ÿ Sleeping11 Aureum Governor's House ................... A3 ï Transport12 Bravo Hotel ............................................ B2 29 Bike Shop................................................A213 Dahlia Motel ........................................... C4 30 Gandamar Land14 Golden Dream Hotel.............................. A2 Handicrafts ..........................................B215 Grace Hotel 1.......................................... A3 31 Pickup to Mandalay................................ B116 Royal Parkview Hotel ............................ C4 32 Pick-ups to Mandalay ............................A317 Tiger Hotel.............................................. B4 33 Share-Taxi Stand ...................................B2Soe Moe Aung .............................. (see 33)ú Eating Win Yadana................................... (see 33)18 Club Terrace .......................................... A4ingly precise recreation of the former Britishgovernor’s mansion is a considerable achievement.However, only five suites are withinthe main half-timbered mansion, with theremaining accommodation being in stylishbut modern bungalows at the bottom of theextensive grounds (electric buggy links).GARDENS AREARoyal Parkview Hotel HOTEL $$(%22641; royalparkview107@gmail.com; 107 LanthayaSt; standard s/d/tr $30/35/50, deluxe s/d $40/45;aW) Still one of Pyin’s most characterful midrangeoptions, there’s neither royalty nor parkviews here, but long ceiling drapes create afashionable edge to the restaurant and thecomplex is surrounded by trees and handkerchiefsof meticulously nurtured lawn. Roomsvary considerably in style and standard but allare attractive, most have terrace seating andthe best deluxe ones have stone-clad showers,gift-wrapped curtains and miniature private‘gardens’.Win Unity HOTEL $$(%23079, 8 Nandar Rd; s/d/tr from $40/45/50;aiW) Brand new in 2010, this semi-smartvilla-hotel has sparkling clean rooms withmatching softwood furniture, air-conditioningin superior rooms (add $5) and bathtubsin deluxe (add $12). It’s just north of KandawgyiLake but with no views. Around thecorner, the upmarket Pyin Oo Lwin Hotel(s) is nearing completion.Kandawgyi Hill Resort HOTEL $$$(%21839; Nandar Rd; d/tr $65/80) Five of the15 rooms are within a 1921 British-era housewhose lounge is disappointingly plain butwhose key asset is a delightful terrace andsitting deck commanding a large sweep ofgarden leading down to the lakefront road.The rest are well-spaced, well-appointedbungalows with wicker chairs on the terrace.It’s one of very few hotels to have heating(important in January) and residents getfree entry to the botanical gardens (both areTay Za owned), saving $10 on a double room.Grace Hotel 1 GUESTHOUSE $(%21230; 114A Nan Myaing Rd; s/d/tr $12/24/36)The major attraction here is the lovely gardenwith plenty of space to sun yourself, albeiton ageing, uncushioned loungers. Therooms aren’t sophisticated but they’re largewith high ceilings and are good value forsingle travellers. Bicycles/motorbikes areavailable for rent for K3000/8000 per day.253MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SLEEPINGPYIN OO LWIN

254NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOTAY ZA IN PYIN OO LWINIf you’re worried about supportinggovernment- affiliated businesses (seep 21 ), you’ll be a little stumped in PyinOo Lwin, where the town’s foremost attraction,the Kandawgyi National Gardens,is now owned by Tay Za’s HtooGroup as are most of the best hotels(Governor’s House, Kandawgyi Lodge,Candacraig).Dahlia Motel GUESTHOUSE $(%22255, 105 Eidaw Rd; s/d/tr from $10/15/25,s/d with shared bathroom $5/10) The Dahlia isa friendly if nonaesthetic clump of colouredconcrete buildings offering about the cheapestbeds you’ll find in the leafy ’burbs. Balconiesare disappointingly designed to overlooka concrete car-park and some rooms are tattywith mildewed bathrooms, though others arequite acceptable – so look carefully. Waterruns hot…eventually.5EatingThe city centre has countless cheap, ordinaryrestaurant-teahouses and simple cafes,both along the main road and around theCentral Market where a night market seesthree blocks of Zaigyo St fill with snackfoodstands (snacks from K200; h5.30-9pm).There’s also a row of cheap eateries (Melody,Khitsan, Emperor) beside TKY Internet.However, if you can spend a little moremoney, a handful of stand-out restaurantscan make dining in Pyin Oo Lwin a realpleasure.oClub Terrace SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$(%23311; 25 Golf Club Rd; veg/nonveg mainsK2500/3500, rice K600; h7am-9pm) Pyin OoLwin’s most romantic restaurant occupiesa gorgeous half-timbered colonial bungalowwith tables spilling out onto the gardenterrace. The food favours scrumptiouslyauthentic Thai flavours but if you’re chilliintolerantthere are also some Malaysianoptions and even fish and chips. Extensivewine selection. Shan noodles breakfasts costK1200.Woodland EUROPEAN, THAI $$(53 Circular Rd; mains K3000-6000; h9am-9.30pm;W) This fashion conscious, if eclectic, designstatement includes electric-blue panellingand a glass wall that reveals an aviary. Themenu covers mostly European and Thai territorycooked with panache and served withflare. There’s also a cocktail bar and free wi-fi.Feel EUROPEAN, PAN-ASIAN $$(%22083; off Nandar Rd; mains K2500-6000;h8.30am-9.30pm) The upmarket yet casuallakeside setting is an obvious attraction.And the vast range of excellent food livesup to the promise with well-honed local,Thai, Chinese and European flavours andoccasional forays into sushi and sashimithat get the thumbs up from Japanese diners.Reservations are occasionally advisablefor dinner. The comfy waterside cafe-terraceserves real espressos (K1400) and a plethoraof cocktails (K2200 to K3600) but can getpretty cold on winter evenings.Golden Triangle Café BAKERY, CAFE $(Mandalay-Lashio Rd; cakes, sandwiches & pizzasK500-2000; h7am-10pm) This upbeat Westernflavouredcafe occupies a column-frontedlate-colonial building full of ceiling fans andbig blackboard menus. It serves a range ofcoffees (K500 to K1800), juices, cakes, sandwiches,pizzas and burgers.Family Restaurant BURMESE, THAI $(off Mandalay-Lashio Rd; meals K1500-5000;h9.30am-9pm) The decor is bland, if bright,and there’s no alcohol (food is halal) but thedelicious curry spread (K1500 to K2500)comes with complimentary rice, soup, pappadamsand a 10-dish smorgasbord of saladvegies, side dishes, chutneys and dips. PricierThai and Chinese options are also available.Sain Mya Ayar CAFE, CHINESE $(Zay Thit Rd; snacks/meals K500/2000; h6am-9pm) This family cafe fills a new pavilionin the small front yard of a modest halftimberedcolonial-era house. Snack on dimsum (K500), delicious strawberry juice(K1000) and assorted cakes (K25 to K200per piece).6 DrinkingHiromi CafeCAFE(%22685; 55D Aing Daw Rd; h8.30am-5.30pm)This cute, tiny timber cafe with fireplace andwrought-iron chairs is ideal for a coffee orglass of homemade plum wine while exploringthe leafy lanes.Tiger HotelBAR(Golf Course Rd; beer K700; h8am-10pm) Thatcheddrinking pavilions attractively set between bananatrees.

Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-Lashio Rd; beer K500; h8.30am-9pm)Standard male-dominated beer hall notablepurely because it serves tastily smooth Spirulina‘anti-ageing’ beer on draught (seeboxed text, p 134 ).Golden LionCAFE(Mandalay- Lashio Rd; coffee K200; h8am-4pm)Locally grown coffee is roasted out back andsold by the packet as well as cup-by-cup inthis cheap, if dowdy, government shop-cafe(see p 21 ).7 ShoppingCentral Market(Zeigyo Rd; h7am-5pm) Sample Pyin OoLwin’s famous (if seasonal) strawberries,damsons, plums, passionfruit and otherfruit, fresh, dried or as jams and wine.Liqueur Corner(h7am-8pm) Booze shop stocking somelocal fruit winesPacific World Curio(75 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h8am-6pm) The bestof several curio shops selling local ‘antiques’and craftsMARKETALCOHOLANTIQUES, CRAFT8InformationPyin Online (www.pyinoolwin.info)Skynet (4th St; internet per hr K500; h9am-10pm) Unusually fast internet…sometimes.TKY Internet (per hr K500; h9am-8pm)Handy for Grace Hotel 1.8Getting There & AwayAirThere’s an airport at Anisakan but no commercialfl ights.Bus, Pick-Up Trucks & Shared TaxiVarious Yangon-bound air-conditioned buses(K11,500 to K15,000, 13½ to 16 hours) departbetween 2pm and 5pm from the farcicallyinconvenient main bus station Thiri Mandala(%22633), hidden behind the gigantic PyiChit Pagoda, 2 miles east of the Shan market(K1500 by motorbike taxi). It’s 600yd offthe Lashio highway, on a road that branchessoutheast near the San Pya Restaurant. Besidethat is Shi May clothing shop, which doublesas bus stand for the 7am and 4pm minibusesto Hsipaw (K4000). At around 7.30am sharedtaxis to Hsipaw and Kyaukme (back/front seatK14,000/16,000) also depart from here withpick-up trucks (K5000) starting from acrossthe road (also 7.30am).For Mandalay pick-ups (front/backK3000/2000 for foreigners, K2000/1500locals) depart frequently from Thiri Mandalastarting at 5am and becoming rarer in the laterafternoon. More conveniently central, somepick-ups start from the petrol pump roundaboutand a few start near the train station. At leastthree companies offer shared taxis (back/frontK6000/6500). Win Yadana (%22490) and SoeMoe Aung (%21500) cars start across from 4thSt. Lwin Man (%21709) starts near the CentralMarket. Alternatively, pre-arrange a hotel pickup(K500 extra). They’ll generally drop you atany central Mandalay address for no extra cost.TrainEastbound Departs at 8.50am for Lashio (ordinary/upper$4/8, 10 hours) via the dramaticGokteik Viaduct (two hours; see the boxed text,p 256 ), Kyaukme ($2/4, four hours) and Hsipaw($2/4, six hours).Westbound If it’s on time (rare!) the train to Mandalay($2/3, 3½ hours) sits in Pyin Oo Lwin stationfor 1½ hours before finally leaving at 5.40pm.8Getting Around‘WAGONS’ Pyin Oo Lwin’s signature horsedrawnbuggies are colourfully decorated andhighly photogenic. Reckon around K1500 for ashort trip across town, K12,000 for an all-daytour. Driver Myou Min Thein (%09 204 5461)speaks a little English.THREE-WHEEL PICK-UPS These congregateoutside the market; around K2000 to KandawgyiGardens.MOTORCYCLE TAXIS These are easiest tofi nd beside Bravo Hotel. Also around K2000 toKandawgyi Gardens. For longer hires, considerengaging English-speaking Bahein at GandamarLand Handicrafts (main market stall AA5/6),who acts as guide and motorcycle driver for muchthe same price as you’d pay for any motorcycletaxi, eg K6000 including wait for Anisakan Falls.BICYCLE The unmarked bike shop (Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h7am-6pm) beside Grace II hotel rentsbicycles (K3000 per day, K4000 for 24 hours).Around Pyin Oo LwinTOWARDS MANDALAYAnisakan FallsWATERFALLanI"cxn'"ert®xân'(admission free) About 1.5 miles north of Anisakanvillage, the plateau disappears into animpressively deep wooded amphitheatre, itssides ribboned with several waterfalls. Themost impressive of these is the gorgeousthree-step Dat Taw Gyaik whose last stagethunders into a shady splash pool beside asmall pagoda on the valley floor.255MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SHOPPINGAROUND PYIN OO LWIN

256NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOTHE GOKTEIK VIADUCTA highlight of the long, slow Mandalay–Lashio train ride is the mighty Gokteik Viaduct(gut'qip't®t;" ) about 34 miles northeast of Pyin Oo Lwin. Constructed in 1901 by contractorsfrom the Pennsylvania Steel Company it bridges the Gokteik Gorge, a densely forestedravine that cuts an unexpectedly deep gash through the otherwise mildly rolling landscape.At 318ft high and 2257ft across, it was the second-highest railway bridge in the world whenit was constructed, and remains Myanmar’s longest. Trains slow to a crawl when crossingthe viaduct to avoid putting undue stress on the ageing superstructure, which, despitesome 1990s renovation work, still creaks ominously as trains edge their way across.In either direction, the best views are from north-facing windows, that is the left sideif you’re heading towards Lashio. It’s also visible through the trees for some time as thetrain winds down from the plateau and there are fine views from parts of Gokteik station(near the viaduct’s western end) but beware that the train only stops there very briefly.Theoretically taking photographs of the viaduct is banned for ‘security reasons’, but inreality nobody seems to care.To get here from Pyin Oo Lwin takethe main Mandalay highway. In Anisakantown take the second asphalted turn right(signposted) and keep right past the firstlarge pagoda. At the end of this road a pairof basic shack-restaurants mark the startof a forest trail along which the falls’ baseare reached by a 45-minute trek. Whilethe way isn’t too difficult to find, employingone of the sales kids as guide (K1000)can prove helpful especially if taking the‘alternative’ route back (very steep, almosta climb).The falls are best photographed in afternoonlight from the lower view-terraceof the fabulous (but government affiliated)Dat Taw Gyaik Waterfalls Resort (%50262;cottages $250) on other side of the amphitheatre.Each of its eight luxurious wooden bungalowscomes with a stocked drinks cabinetand a large balcony equipped with loungersand a two-person spa tub from which to enjoypartial waterfall views. To find the resorttake the easternmost asphalted turn northoff the Mandalay–Pyin Oo Lwin highway inAnisakan (signposted for a meditation centre)and turn left immediately after crossingthe railway.CyberCityNEW TOWNAbout 12 miles south of Pyin Oo Lwin atYatanarpon, CyberCity is part university Pwe Kauk Fallstown, part 21st-century Potëmkin villagewhere most of the numerous high-tech factoriesare said to be just shells with signboardsand oddments of trade waste leftconspicuously outside to look genuine. Thelong term idea is to incubate industries hereand attract inward investment once internationalsanctions fade.TOWARDS KYAUKMEIf you’re driving to Kyaukme/Hsipaw, noneof the following is more than a 2-mile detourfrom the main road but visiting by publictransport will prove awkward. A round-triphalf-day tour by motorcycle-taxi to all of theabove from Pyin Oo Lwin should cost aroundK10,000. Sites are reviewed from west to east.Aung Htu Kan Tha Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLEAlthough only finished in March 2000, thisdazzling pagoda is by far the region’s mostimpressive religious building. It enshrinesan enormous 17-ton white-marble buddhastatue that fell off a truck bound for Chinain April 1997. After several attempts to retrievethe buddha failed, it was decided thatthe statue ‘had decided to stay in Myanmar’.Eventually cranes were used to yank him upthe hill and a dazzling new golden pagodawas built for him. He is now draped in giltrobes and sits in a temple interior that’s anincredible overload of gold. The pagoda ison a hilltop, just south of the Lashio-boundhighway, around 15 minutes’ drive beyondPyin Oo Lwin’s vast Defense Forces TechnologicalAcademy compound. If you reach thetoll gates you’ve gone half a mile too far.WATERFALLepâ"ek;k'ert®xân'(admission K500, camera fee K300) CalledHampshire Falls in British times, Pwe Kaukis a fan of small weirs and splash pools ratherthan a dramatic waterfall but the forestglade setting is pretty. A series of little woodenbridges, souvenir stands and children’s

play areas add to the attraction for localfamilies but undermine any sense of naturalserenity. It’s a two-minute drive down asteep, easily missed lane excursion off theHsipaw road that starts directly north ofAung Htu Kan Tha Paya.December Strawberry FarmREST STOPThis invitingly stylish complex of newthatched pavilions on a rolling roadsidelawn 2½ miles beyond Aung Htu Kan ThaPaya offers an easy stop for motorists to geta meal or taste locally produced fruit wines.Myaing GyiVILLAGEAfter descending a loop of hairpins, the Hsipawroad reaches pretty Myaing Gyi wherea photogenic monastery climbs a woodedhillside. Two minutes’ drive beyond theroadside Wetwun Zaigone Monastery isequally photogenic with a fine array of stupasand Balinese-style pagodas behind a giganticold banyan tree.Peik Chin MyaungBUDDHA CAVE COMPLEXpit'xY='"e¨m;='ÁekY;k'mE(admission/camera free/K300; h6.30am-4.30pm)Many Buddha caves are little more thanrocky niches or overhangs but Peik Chinis much more extensive. It takes around15 minutes each way to walk to the cave’send (longer when crowded) following anunderground stream past a whole series ofcolourfully painted scenes from Buddhistscriptures interspersed with countless stupasand buddha images. There are a few sectionswhere you’ll need to bend over to getbeneath dripping rocks but most of the caveis high-ceilinged and adequately lit so youdon’t need a torch. It can feel sweaty and humidinside. No shorts or footwear permitted.The access road is around 2½ miles eastof Myaing Gyi, just beyond the green signannouncing your arrival in Wetwun town.Turn right through a lion-guarded gatewayarch then descend inexorably for another2 miles to the large parking area throngedwith souvenir stalls.KyaukmeekY;k'mEE%082 / POP C85,000 / ELEV APPROX 900MPronounced ‘chao-may’, Kyaukme is a lowrisedistrict centre with a gently attractivecentral market area bracketed by monasterytoppedhills, each only 15 minutes’ walk awayusing steep, covered stairways. The main attractionis hiking and motor-biking optionsinto surrounding Shan and Palaung hill villages(see boxed text, p 258 ). Although Kyaukmeis rather bigger than Hsipaw, the town isfar less accustomed to travellers and there’sonly one foreigner-licensed guesthouse. Kyaukmemeans ‘black stone’, fitting a folkloricbelief that its citizens were dishonest tradersof precious (or not so precious) gems.4Sleeping & EatingA Yone Oo Guest House (%40183; Shwe PhiOo Rd; s/d from $15/18, luxury $25/30, with sharedbathroom from $4/8) is the only accommodationfor foreigners. The cheapest optionsare basic bed-spaces with hardboard separators– noisy, and the shared squat toiletsare across the yard. Pay a few dollars moreper person and the beds are better, walls arethicker and the shared bathroom has hotwater. The luxury rooms set around the rearcourtyard are vastly better appointed andcome with fridge, air-conditioning and heaterbut so too do the slightly larger, decentlymaintained $18 doubles, arguably the bestdeal here. Management speaks some English.Evenings, the hotel has a barbecue stallout front. There’s a greater dining choicearound the cinema, three blocks south.8Getting There & AwayBusBuses to Hsipaw (7am, noon and 4pm) plus the7am air-conditioned bus to Lashio start fromthe southwest corner of the market, two blockssouth of the guesthouse.Four buses to Mandalay all leave around 5.30amfrom a bus terminal, just across the rail tracks,around 10 minutes further north. Mu-se–Hsipaw–Mandalaybuses mostly stay on the AH16,bypassing Kyaukme by over a mile, though somehalt at the Mao or Nentang Dan restaurants forlunch (a K1500 motorcycle ride from town).Taxi & MotorcycleOddly, a taxi to Mandalay (typically K60,000) ismore expensive from Kyaukme than from Hsipawand there’s no share taxi system. The guesthousecan help you organise motorcycle rentals.Note that the gem-mining town of Mogok isnow completely off limits to foreigners – if youtravel too far along the road running north fromKyaukme, you will be turned back. The roughKyaukme to Namhsan road is closed to foreignersnorthbound.TrainFrom the guesthouse the train station is a10-minute walk west then north.257MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SLEEPING KYAUKME& EATING

258NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOTREKKING FROM KYAUKMETypical walking destinations have anunspoilt charm that challenges eventhose around Hsipaw. But Kyaukmeitself is pretty spread out so mosttreks start with a motorcycle ride to asuitable trailhead. This is typically includedin guide-fees, which cost aroundK25,000 for a couple plus K15,000 peradditional walker. For longer motorbiketrails you’ll need to add K10,000 perday for bike rental plus petrol.Naing-Naing (%09 4730 7622;naingninenine@gmail.com), nicknamed‘9-9’, is Kyaukme’s best-known guide.He has a fascinating background andan extensive knowledge of the entirearea. The guesthouse has copies of hishand-drawn hiking and biking schematicregional map. Thura (%09 47308497; www.thuratrips.tl) has also beenrecommended.Eastbound Departs 1.50pm for Hsipaw (ordinary/upperclass $2/4, two hours)Westbound Departs 11.25am for Mandalay($3/6, 10½ hours) via Gokteik Viaduct (2½hours) and Pyin Oo Lwin ($3/6, five hours).HsipawoIep:%082 / POP C54,000 / ELEV APPROX 700MThe trickle of foreigners who make it to Hsipaw(‘see-paw’ or ‘tee-bor’), mostly arrive forhill-tribe treks that are easy to organise andhandily short yet ‘unspoilt’ in a way you’llrarely find around Kalaw or anywhere innorthern Thailand. Hsipaw itself is smalleryet more historic than Lashio or Kyaukme. Ithas just enough tourist infrastructure to beconvenient yet it still feels thoroughly genuine.Though architectural remnants are fairlylimited, this was once a Shan royal city. Localhistorians claim that 19th-century princeSao So Chae was knighted by Queen Victoriawhile the last sawba (Shan prince), Sao KyaSeng, became the tragic hero of a book by hisAustrian wife (see boxed text, p 259 ).1Sights & ActivitiesThe present town centre, Tyaung Myo, onlydates back to the early 20th century. Themain monasteries, stupas and former palacelie on higher ground around a mile furthernorth in Myauk Myo.Central RiverfrontNEIGHBOURHOODHsipaw’s riverside produce market(h4.30am-1pm) is most interesting beforedawn when the road outside is jammedwith hill-villagers (Shan, Palaung, Lisu) sellingtheir wares: all will have cleared awayby 7am. Between here and the large centralmarket (h8am-5pm) are four column-fronted19th-century godowns (warehouses, onenow used as a schoolroom) and a banyantree worshipped by locals as a nat (spirit)shrine, though reverence doesn’t preventthe nearby riverbank being used as a smellyrubbish tip.Mahamyatmuni PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLE(Namtu Rd) South of the central area, MahamyatmuniPaya is the biggest and grandestpagoda in the main town. The large brassfacedbuddha image here was inspired bythe famous Mahamuni buddha (p 208 ) inMandalay. He’s now backed by an acid-triphalo of pulsating coloured lights that wouldseem better suited to a casino.Myauk MyoNEIGHBOURHOODTowards the northern edge of town, Hsipaw’soldest section today has a village-like atmosphereand two delightful old teak monasteries.The multifaceted wooden MadahyaMonastery looks particularly impressivewhen viewed across the palm-shaded pondof the Bamboo Buddha Monastery (MahaNanda Kantha), whose 150-year-old lacqueredbuddha is made from bamboo strips(now hidden beneath layers of gold). Aroundand behind lie a few clumps of ancient brickstupas, some being overwhelmed by vegetationin vaguely Angkor Wat style. The nicknamefor this area, Little Bagan, blatantlyoverplays the size and extent of the sites butthe area is undoubtedly charming.To get here cross the big bridge on NamtuSt heading north. Turn first left at the policestation, then first right and fork left. Takethis lane across the railway track then followthe main track as it wiggles.To return by an alternative route, takethe unpaved track east behind the BambooBuddha monastery, rapidly passing EissaPaya (where one stupa has a tree growingout of it). You’ll emerge near Sao Pu SaoNai, a colourful shrine dedicated to theguardian nat of Hsipaw. Rather than turningleft into the shrine, turn right and you’llreach Namtu Rd a little north of the railway.

A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ago, one of the most interesting Hsipaw experiences used to be a visit to thefading 1924 Shan palace-villa in the company of the charming Mr Donald, nephew of SaoKya Seng, who had been the area’s last sawbwa (Shan prince). Sao Kya Seng vanishedduring the 1962 military takeover, an event powerfully described by his wife, Inge Sargent,in the book Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess. History in Myanmar hasa habit of repeating itself. In 2005 Mr Donald was himself arrested and sentenced to 13years in prison. The dubious charges were of ‘operating as an unlicensed tour guide anddefaming the State’, but few doubted it was part of a coordinated crackdown on triballeaders. In 2009 Mr Donald was conditionally released, but with nine years probation.Reportedly the probation conditions specify that if he so much as talks to a foreigner he’llbe sent back to jail. So please don’t think it a clever wheeze to visit him by climbing overthe heavily chained palace gates. If you want to get an idea of the palace’s design, a saferalternative is to head to Hsipaw’s Don Bosco Catholic Seminary, whose main building wascreated by the same architect in a similar 1920s suburban-English style.Sunset HillVIEWPOINTFor sweeping views across the river and rightover Hsipaw, climb to Thein Daung Pagodaalso known as Five Buddha Hill or, most popularly,Sunset Hill. It’s part of a steep ridgethat rises directly behind the Lashio road,around 1½ miles south of Hsipaw. Cross thenew river bridge, follow the main road leftthen take the laterite track that starts with atriple-crowned temple gateway around 300mbeyond. There’s a small English sign at thegateway. The climb takes around 15 minutes.At the time of research it was possible to loopback to central Hsipaw along a horribly dustyroad on the river’s east bank, passing an attractivetimber monastery building beforecrossing the river on a pontoon bridge northof the sports field. However, the pontoons arescheduled for removal during 2011 or 2012.Bawgyo PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEFive miles west of Hsipaw, this pagoda isof great significance to Shan people andgets overloaded with pilgrims who arriveen masse during the annual Bawgyo PayaPwe culminating on the full moon day ofTabaung (February/March).The pagoda’s current incarnation is aneye-catching 1995 structure of stepped gildedpolygons, within which the dome supposedlyincorporates genuine rubies. The nametranslates loosely as ‘Dad come and get me’,and the original pagoda was built centuriesearlier by a heartbroken Shan king who hadmarried off his daughter, warrior-princessSaw Mun La, to the Burmese king as partof a Shan-Burma peace deal. The Burmeseking adored her but, as the seventh wife inhis harem, her presence and growing favourcaused trouble. Jealous concubines set aboutdenouncing her as a spy. The king didn’t fallfor the lies but realised that he’d better gether out of his court before the other wivesmurdered her. The plan should have worked,but on the long, arduous route back to herfather’s court she fell ill. The Shan king wassent for but arrived to find her already deadof a mystery sickness. The point where shedied became the site of a pagoda to underlineShan-Burmese friendship.It’s beside the Hsipaw–Kyaukme road:you’ll get a brief glimpse from the right-handwindows of any Kyaukme- or Mandalayboundbus.2 ActivitiesHikingEach of the guesthouses can organise guides(around K10,000 per day) to take you ona range of fascinating treks into the hillsabove town visiting Shan, Palaung and Lisuvillages. Mr Charles Guest House (p 260 ) isespecially well organised and most eveningsthere’ll be someone sitting on the front terraceto answer questions about the variousoptions. Generally a next-day departure ispossible if you don’t want anything too adventurous.Pankam (see boxed text, p 262 ) isa good one-/two-day choice. Trekking withouta guide is less satisfying (very few villagersspeak English) but it is possible – getsomeone to write down your destination inlocal script before departing. Most villageshave motorcycle tracks too, so it may bepossible to pay a villager to drive you backif you’re fed up, though finding a bike isn’talways straightforward.MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO ACTIVITIESHSIPAW

‚260Hsipaw #eABC0 400 m0 0.2 milesDNORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIO11666ÿ## ðSports# ü Field1366Train #£# ÚStation# 162#òæ# 23 12# ß ›#20æ# æ# # ýCinema›## ü›#182112# ú1114Aung Tha Pyay Rd æ## ü 8#ú46622Baptist # # ú9MarlanChurchÿ## ú 105St2500## ÜÜ›## Úæ#ÿ#7PagodaCatholic17›#Clocktower319SchoolChurch3Evergreenÿ## îTown To Sunset HillGuesthouseDon Bosco15Hall (1mi);66To Saifha (180m);# Ü Catholic #LashioMahamyatnuni Paya (320m)Seminary (35mi)ABCDWorkshop Visitspoor rates. Breakfast is included but servedIf you don’t fancy walking so far, there are in the yard (bring a blanket!)various workshops and mini factoriesaround town, where you can see localsGolden Doll/Mr Kid GUESTHOUSE $carrying out cottage industries like weaving,noodle manufacturing, dipping-candle(%80066; 124 Bogyoke Rd; s/d $6/10, with sharedbathroom $5/8) The obliging, if laid-back, familywelcome makes this feel like an overgrownmaking, cheroot rolling and even popcornpopping. All these are marked on the maphomestay. Conditions are basic and there arein the reception at Mr Charles Guest House.a handful of coffin-box singles (normally forOr find a guide to combine a few workshoplocals only) but several rooms have been revamped,some with half-timber effects, oth-visits with, perhaps, a field-stroll to Parpeitvillage and hot springs.ers with wooden panelling and most withfine new mattresses. However, the shared4Sleepingbathrooms are dimly lit and across the yard.Auba StPadamyar StThirimingalar StLanmataw StTheinni StSabal StoMr Charles Guest House HOTEL $(%80105; 105 Auba St; s/d from K10,000/15,000,with shared bathroom K4500/9000, air-con r fromK22,000; a) This well-run travellers’ magnetcovers all bases from simple, hard-beddedbackpacker basics to relatively snazzy newblockrooms where every extra Kyat you paygets something slightly nicer. For air-conditioningand balcony reckon K22,000. Fancybath fittings and more contemporary decorstart at K30,000. Staff can arrange all mannerof transport, treks and tours and eachbuilding has an enticing communal upstairsbalcony where guests swap travel stories lateinto the evening. Dollars can be changed atNamtu Rd (Main Rd)Tharaphi StGandamar StThazin StPontoon Bridge(Due for removal 2012)Hnin StBogyoke RdShwe NyaungPin StDokhtawadyRiver‚Nam Khae Mao GUESTHOUSE $(%80077; nkmao@myanmar.com.mm; 134 BogyokeRd; s/d from K11,000/13,000, with sharedbathroom K4000/8000) The cheapest bareboxrooms come with bubbling paintworkand shared squat toilets. En suite roomsare more presentable and the best K18,000rooms have air-conditioning and hot water,though they are accessed off a communalTV room that’s often packed full of localguests.5Eating & DrinkingA selection of dining options is strung outalong Namtu Rd. Most are relatively basichaving made few attempts to gentrify their

Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan Tree Nat Shrine........................ C2 12 Black House Coffee Shop......................D22 Central Market....................................... C2 13 La Wün Aung .......................................... C13 Godowns ................................................ C2 14 Valentines ...............................................B24 Produce Market..................................... D2ï Informationÿ Sleeping15 Hospital...................................................C35 Golden Doll/Mr Kid................................ B3 16 Mr Book Book Stall ................................C26 Mr Charles Guest House........................C17 Nham Khae Mao .................................... C3 ï Transport17 Ah Kong Kaik Restaurant ......................B3ú Eating18 Duhtawadi Cafe......................................C28 Best Place .............................................. C2 19 Khaing Dhabyay .....................................B39 Law Chun ('Mr Food')............................ C3 20 Pwai.........................................................C210 San.......................................................... C3 Ye Shin ...........................................(see 21)11 Street Vendors ...................................... C2 21 Yetagon...................................................B222 Yoma Bus Office.....................................B3old wooden or half-timbered shophouses.Eateries scattered south of the town hallalong the road towards the Lashio bridge areeven more rickety. Several cafes double as defacto bus stands, such as the Duhtawadi Cafe.Street vendors outside the cinema sellmoun-ou-khalei (rice-flour balls) and kaukpout(‘cow-po’) rounds of pounded stickybrown rice that are barbecued then sprinkledwith jaggary and sesame.San SHAN, CHINESE $(Namtu Rd; meals K1000-2500, barbecue itemsfrom K100; h8am-9.30pm) It’s under-lit and farfrom stylish but cosier than many alternatives;the barbecue is well stocked, large Dalibeers cost only K800 and there’s a bilingualpicture menu of other options.Best Place CAFE $(Aung Tha Paya St; shakes K500-800; h7am-10pm) In this archetypal part-timberedteahouse, ‘Mr Shake’ speaks English whilehis wife whizzes up scrumptious lassis usinggrated coconut and Pyin Oo Lwin strawberries(seasonal).Law Chun (‘Mr Food’) CHINESE $$(Mr Food; Namtu Rd; mains K1000-4000; h8am-8.45pm) ‘Mr Food’ stands out very obviouslyfrom the pack due to its bright white, if farfrom atmospheric, interior. The Chinesefood is reliable and there’s draught Dagonbeer on tap.Valentines ICE-CREAM PARLOUR $(Sabal St; shakes K500; h11am-9pm) Colddrinks, shakes and ice creams in a clean,modern, if over-cutesy, environment withkiddy-chairs on the pavement and relativelylittle passing traffic to disturb you.La Wün Aung CAFE $(Namtu Rd; mains K800-1500; h6am-10pm)One of several low-key teahouse bars thathide the sports field but make amends byscreening international football matches.Being handy for Mr Charles Guest Houseand open relatively late, it gets plenty oftraveller business.Black House Coffee Shop CAFE $(23 Shwe Nyaung Pin St; coffee from K800,banana cake K500; h6am-6pm) The airy,75-year-old teak shophouse is backed by awide river-facing yard, a delightful, if relativelyunsophisticated, place to linger overa coffee made from Shan beans grown inTaunggyi.8InformationThe guesthouses are good sources of reliableadvice about things to do and see. A remarkablesource of local information and history is KoZaw Tun, who is known locally as Mr Book, ashe runs a small book stall (Namtu Rd; h7am-8.15pm) opposite the entrance to the CentralPagoda (which his own family helped to build).There are several internet cafes but connectionbreaks down frequently.8Getting There & AwayBus & Pick-Up TrucksThere’s no single bus stand. Instead buses leavefrom a confusing plethora of shops/cafes notably261MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO 8 HSIPAW 8

262NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIOKhaing Dhabyay (%80349; Mandalay Rd), YeShin (%80159; Namtu Rd) and helpful DuhtawadiCafe (%80116; Lanmataw St), which can alsoorganise taxis when cars are available. Apartfrom services listed here, other through busesbetween Lashio/Mu-se and Mandalay often stopfor lunch or snacks at Ah Kong Kaik (‘MyanmarTraditional Food’; cnr Namtu & Bogyoke Rds).Magwe/Pyay 9am from Khaing Dhabyay(K12,000/16,000).Mandalay Departs at 5.30am (air-con expressesfrom Duhtawadi, Yetagon and Ye Shin,K5000, around six hours), 6.30am (slow busfrom Duhtawadi), 9am (air-con from KhaingDhabyay, K5000) continuing to Magwe(K12,000) and Pyay (K16,000).Kyaukme Departs from Duhtawadi corner(K1000, one hour) at 8am, 9.30am, 11am,noon (air-con ex-Lashio), 3pm, 4.20pm (air-conex-Lashio). There’s also an 8am minibus fromPwai (Namtu Rd).Yangon A Mangshwe Pyi bus bound for Yangon(K14,500, 15 to 18 hours) calls at the KhaingDhabyay shop around 1pm.Shared TaxiMandalay (front/back seat K13,000/11,000,whole car K45,000) from the Duhtawadi Cafearound 7am.PANKAM VILLAGE TREKKyaukme Charter only, K25,000.Lashio Charter only, K40,000.TrainHsipaw’s tiny train station is across the tracksfrom the end of Thirimingalar St.Eastbound Departs 3.15pm for Lashio (lower/upper class $2/4, 4½ hours)Westbound Departs 9.40am to Mandalay($4/9) via Kyaukme ($1/2), Naungkhio ($1/2)and Pyin Oo Lwin ($3/6).8Getting AroundTrishaws rides start from K500; they wait bythe market. Bicycles can be rented from MrCharles and Nham Khae Mao guesthouses.Saifha (%80566; Minepon St; h7am-5pm)rents out 125CC motorcycles for betweenK8000 and K10,000 per day. So do Mr Charlesand Nham Khae Mao guesthouses.Around HsipawNAMHSANnm'¾cm'POP 32,000 / ELEV 5249FTHigh in the Shan Hills, Namhsan is a fascinatingridge-top town that looks out overThe sizeable, traditional Palaung ridge-village of Pankam makes a deservedly popularshort-trek destination from Hsipaw. While other villages have better views, a key advantagehere is that the charming young head man, O Maung, speaks good English and hisfamily readily offers bed-and-dinner to walkers in their archetypal teak home (K6000 perperson). Walking up from Hsipaw takes around five hours at a very modest pace, crossingflat fields before climbing through timeless stilt-house hamlets including Na Lowe, NaMuu, Man Piet and Beng Puie. In each Shan settlement en route you’ll find a kin-gyiao, awooden phallus placed above a buried urn of vegetable oil to ensure field fertility. Villagesare protected from evil spirits by gateways with crossed wooden knife symbols. And, besidethe main temple in Pankam, you’ll find a classic shrine-box where a nativity-style dollscenedepicts the legendary bestowal of tea seeds upon the Palaung in the 12th century.The Buddha-like figure represents Burma’s ‘traveller king’ Alaungsithu who had cometo the Shan mountains in search of rubies, before eventually turning into a powerful natspirit after his murder in 1167! Here, Alaungsithu is seen handing out tea seeds to kneelingPalaung leaders. One such chief, embarrassed by the hole in his black baggy trousers,covered the hole with one hand and so rudely received the gift with the other – politenessrequired receiving gifts with both hands. This jolly legend gave rise to the Palaung namefor tea, Lapet, a contraction of Latopet (one hand). And to this day the Palaung tribe seetea cultivation as a semi-divine raison d’etre – as well as good business.From Hsipaw there are several ways to visit Pankam: as part of a multiday trek, hikingout and back in two days, or trekking in one day then engaging one of the villagers to runyou back on a motorbike (around K3000 to Hsipaw, but K8000 back). With a guide (recommended)you can start by simply crossing the fields northwest of Mr Charles GuestHouse. Without a guide it’s easier to take the road towards Mandalay for 1 mile thenbranch right beside a lone noodle shack where the main road swerves sharp right at thefar edge of Hsipaw. Then keep asking!

a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges andplunging ravines. The surrounding slopesare covered by tea plantations that are themainstay of Namhsan’s economy. Two possibleone-day return hikes take you up to superbviewpoints at Taung Yo monastery andatop Loi San (‘Ruby Mountain’). The scenic(if rough) journey to reach Namhsan fromHsipaw is an attraction in itself while trekkingback again to Hsipaw (two nights andthree days) is an ideal way to stay in timelessvillages en route. Hsipaw’s Mr Charles GuestHouse can help suggest guides. Namhsanhas a very simple guesthouse (per personK3000) and in the past, some locals have offeredhomestays.8 Getting There & AwayShared jeeps to Namhsan (K6000) run at leastfi ve times a week from Kyaukme bus stand pickingup passengers in Hsipaw (same price) bypre-arrangement on %09 4730 6067. Ask yourguesthouse to call for you. From Hsipaw, rentingyour own jeep will cost around K60,000.The beautiful but tough motorbike ride takesalmost four hours: the route is signed at a roundabout17 miles towards Namtu from Hsipaw.Maps show a direct Namhsan to Kyaukme secondaryroad. Part of this road is out of bounds toforeigners and you won’t get through the halfwaycheckpoint if you’re heading to Namhsan.However, returning that way you might make it.Ask local advice before trying this.Lashiol;"rúui"%082 / POP C130,000 / ELEV 2805FTLashio (pronounced ‘lar-show’) is a sprawlingmarket town with a significant Chinesepopulation. You’re most likely to come herefor the airport – the nearest to Hsipaw. Or,if you’ve managed to organise the necessarypermits, to meet your guide for the fourhourdrive to the Chinese border at Mu-se(see boxed text, p 267 ). Lashio is a large butunassuming, place that straggles up a gentlysloping valley ringed by dragon-backedridges, abrupt hillocks and terraced vegetableplots. Once the seat of an importantShan sao pha (sky lord), the town played apivotal role in the fight against the Japanesein WWII. It was the starting point ofthe Burma Road, which supplied food andarms to Chiang Kai-Shek’s Kuomintangarmy. Not much evidence of either historicalperiod remains today, and most of thecity’s old wooden homes were destroyed ina disastrous 1988 fire. However, a few interestingpagodas survive amongst the lacklustre20th-century architecture.1Sights & ActivitiesLashio’s sights wouldn’t warrant a significantdetour but there’s plenty to investigateshould you find yourself here for a day.Thatana (Sasana) 2500-Year PayaBUDDHIST STUPALashio’s most evocative sight, this small gildedstupa gleams alluringly among ridge-toptrees above the town centre. It was reportedlybuilt by Sao Hon Phan, the last Shan‘sky king’. Mist-layered after dawn, the townlooks its best from the stupa’s terrace. Walkingup here takes around 20 minutes followingthe second lane that slopes northeastafter the Kachin Baptist Church. The fastestway back down is a long steep stairway passinga large, distinctive concrete ball monumentcalled Khabar Aye.Central LashioNEIGHBOURHOODA few decrepit old wooden buildings andan eye-catching central mosque aren’tquite enough to bring a photogenic qualityto predominantly concrete central Lashio.However, the pre-dawn morning market(Bogyoke Rd; h4.30am-7am) is particularlyendearing when many vegetable sellerslight their wares with flickering candles.Between the large main market and theNannhaewon Amusement Park, is theeye-catching Mahamyatmuni Paya (La MaDaw St), an open-sided pavilion enshrininga dazzle-faced seated Buddha along thelines of Mandalay’s Mahamuni. If you walktowards the Hsipaw bus stand you’ll passthe pretty 1994 Maha Bodayaong temple,whose unrefined seven-storey church-liketower offers decent townscape views –assuming you find a monk who’ll let youclimb it.Quan Yin ShangCHINESE TEMPLEPart way up the wooded ridge at the southernedge of town, this large temple-nunneryis the principal place of worship for Lashio’slarge Chinese community. Squint briefly atthe main buildings and they appear to beolde-worlde Chinese temples with classic tiptiltedtraditional roofs. However, on closerinspection they are somewhat gaudy 20thcenturyversions while the flanking bricknuns’ residences are contrastingly dour. Themain prayer hall contains a trio of buddha-like263MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SIGHTS LASHIO& ACTIVITIES

‚264NORTHERN MYANMAR MANDALAY TO LASHIO66 6666666666666666666666Lashio1234#£666665AEnlargementLanmataw St5#Ú# ñ14 # ÿ# ˜12# ÿ# ð23 9#æ# æ 6 1 # ú 176# ˜ # ß 16# ú# ÿ # ú22 1513Bogyoke Rd#› 19A4#ÚShwebo Rd0 400 m0 0.2 miles‚Station RdThipaw RdKachinBaptist #ÜChurch10#æfigures held aloft on gilded, disembodiedhands. You might find visiting Quan YinShang worthwhile to discover the surroundinglow-rise back-streets and for glimpses of ridgeand karst horizons. From the market area,three-wheel pick-ups charge K3000 return.Mansu PayaBUDDHIST MONASTERIESBeyond the bus station, the main road bendsbetween the two halves of the gold and stuccoMansu Paya, said to be over 250 yearsold. One side of the monastery is archetypalShan, the other is Burmese with a notableoctagonal stupa. Hidden by school buildingsBogyoke RdB‚BTheinni RdSamkaung StTo Quan YinShang (200m)See Enlargement# Ú 11#á 3Theinni Rd0 800 m#e 0 0.4 milesCDTo Ye Pu San (4mi);Mu-se (100mi)–#18# ˜ 20CPyikaungsu Rd2 # Ú21#›# ÿGreat CityHotel7# Ú # Ú8just off the main road, around a mile furthernorth, is another century-old Shan monastery,Kamenjaung Paya.Ye Pu SanHOT SPRINGSerpUcn'"(local/foreigner K100/$3, parking K500) Thispopular local bathing place is a pea-greenartificial pond ringed by a handful of stallsand crossed by a rickety pair of rough plankbridges. The water is perfectly bathwaterwarmand the rural agricultural setting ispleasant enough but it’s hard to justify thehefty foreigner entry fee or the K3000 each‚D12345

Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...................................B22 Kamenjaung Paya................................ D13 Khabar Aye...........................................C44 Maha Bodayaong Temple...................A35 Mahamyatmuni Paya ..........................A26 Main Market .........................................B27 Mansu Paya (Burmese section).........D38 Mansu Paya (Shan section)................D39 Morning Market ...................................B210 Nannhaewon AmusementPark....................................................B411 Thatana (Sasana) 2500-YearPaya ...................................................C3ÿ Sleeping12 Royal Ground Hotel .............................B213 Thi Da Aye ............................................B214 Ya Htaik ................................................B2ú Eating15 Night Market ........................................B216 Royal Restaurant.................................B217 Sun Moon Café ....................................B2ï Transport18 Airport .................................................. C119 Buses to Hsipaw ..................................A320 Lashio Gyi Pick-up Stand.................... D121 Main Bus Station .................................C322 Pick-ups to Bus Station &Lashio Gyi..........................................B223 Three-wheeler Taxi Stand...................A2way pick-up hire to get here (4 miles fromtown, a mile or so off the Mu-se road).World Peace PagodaBUDDHIST TEMPLE(Hsipaw Rd) This massive new golden stupaon the far western edge of town is visible fora short time (on the right) from the Hsipawboundbus.4SleepingRoom rates in Lashio are the same forsingles and doubles, and don’t includebreakfast.Thi Da Aye HOTEL $(%22165; Thiri Rd; budget/standard/air-con r from$5/15/18, tr from $18; a) Standard rooms areclean, if functional, high-ceilinged boxes butfor minimal extra cash the newest rooms(small/suite $20/30) are a vast step up inquality with new tiled floors, good bathroomsand very comfy mattresses. The cheapestbasement dives are, in contrast, musty withsaggy beds, sorry little squat-toilet cubiclesand headless showers.Royal Ground HOTEL $(%25516; Theinni Rd; r with shower/bath $17/19;a) Clean, all-air-con motel-like place with35 rooms on two floors that extend wellback from the busy road. Showers in someare a little rusty and little English is spokenbut it’s next door to the town’s most centralinternet cafe.Ya Htaik HOTEL $(%22655; Bogyoke Rd; fan/air-con r $15/18, ste$25; a) Fair-sized rooms are perfectly bearableand beds are comfy but the puke greenwalls are off-putting and several fittings arein need of a little freshening up. Suites arebigger but not better, apart from a balconyin some. The lift shaft still has no lift.5EatingThere are a selection of food stalls aroundthe junction of Theinni Rd and Bogyoke St,and many many more appear after 5pm aspart of the bustling night market (h5pm-9pm). Shan specialities here include pig-organhotpots, Shan noodle soup and savourycakes made from steamed purple sticky riceand sesame seeds.Sun Moon Café CHINESE, THAI $(Bogyoke Rd; meals K1500; h9am-9pm) Abovean over-lit bakery, this is about the brightest,cleanest and most Western-friendly eateryin central Lashio albeit without any realhint of style. The picture menu helps youguess what you’re ordering.Royal Restaurant CHINESE $(Samkaung St; barbecue items per stick from K100,meals K1000-8000; h11am-10pm) Every bit asgrubby and uninviting as most of the downmarketcentral eateries, but the barbecuefood’s fine and you can wash it down withdraught Myanmar Beer (K650). The all-in-Burmese menu also offers whole fish (K5000),hotpot (K8000) and fried rice (K1000).8InformationST Internet (Theinni Rd; per hr K500; h8am-10pm)8Getting There & AwayAirAsian Wings operates a new hopper fl ight ona Yangon–Heho–Mandalay–Lashio–Tachileik265MANDALAY NORTHERN MYANMAR TO LASHIO SLEEPINGLASHIO

266NORTHERN MYANMAR THE FAR NORTHroute but as yet this is a public charter with nofi xed schedule. Yangon to Lashio costs around$135, Mandalay to Lashio $70. Air Kanbawza hasannounced plans for Lashio fl ights in future.On arrival don’t panic if your baggage doesn’tappear in the tiny terminal building while you’rebeing quizzed by immigration offi cers: in factbags are disconcertingly delivered to a shedoutside the airport compound gate.BusLong distance services use the Main Bus Station(Pyikaungsu Rd) opposite the Great City Hotel,about 1 mile north of centre. Services include:Mandalay Air-con buses depart at 8am and6pm (K5000, eight hours), travelling via PyinOo Lwin (six hours) and Kyaukme (three hours)Mu-se Regular buses (four hours) and a goodroad but foreigners are never allowed.Nay Pyi Taw Departs 6am (K9000, 14 hours).Taunggyi Departs 7am (K15,000, 15 hours).However, most long-distance bus companiesare highly reluctant to sell tickets to foreigners,citing the dangers to the driver of your presence(should he crash he faces a serious backlash).The local bus station, 300m west of DaowadengdaPagoda, is a series of shophousesdoubling as bus offi ces. The fi rst one on the rightoffers useful services to Hsipaw (K1500, twohours) at 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm and 2.30pm.Ideally buy tickets a couple of hours ahead.TaxiShared taxis wait in front of the main bus station(mostly before 10am), charging K35,000per person to Taunggyi, between K13,000 andK15,000 per person to Mandalay (eight hours)depending on the season (assuming four in acar). There’s no discount if you get off in betweenat Hsipaw (two hours), Kyaukme (three hours) orPyin Oo Lwin (six hours). By arrangement mostwill pick up at your hotel.TrainLashio’s miniature train station is 2 miles northof the market, a K1500 pick-up ride. At 5am theone daily train departs to Mandalay (ordinary/upperclass $6/12, 16 hours) via Hsipaw ($2/4, fourhours) and Pyin Oo Lwin ($4/8, 11 hours). Ticketsales only start at 4.30am the same morning.8Getting AroundFrom the Theinni Rd–Bogyoke St junction, sharedthree-wheeler pick-up trucks (K300) shuttledown past the bus station and Mansu pagodas,terminating at a major junction (‘Lashio Gyi’) halfa mile east of the airport. Occasional shared ridesfrom there run to the hot springs. Chartered threewheelerscosts around K1500 per hop within town.Taxis from the airport ask a steep K5000.THE FAR NORTHMyanmar’s far northern range of Himalayan‘Ice Mountains’ is one of the world’sleast-known ‘last frontiers’. Hkakabo Razi(19,295ft), the nation’s loftiest summit, isover a half a mile higher than Mont Blancand had never been climbed until 1996. Perhapsthat’s not surprising given that the trekto reach its base camp took almost a month.The surrounding Hkakabo Razi NationalPark is considered a treasure trove of biodiversity.Landscapes here are similar tothose found in the Indian state of ArunachalPradesh – steep forests, ridges of peaksbursting through the snowline and deep valleyscarved by fast-flowing mountain rivers.Further south is the Hukaung Valley TigerReserve (www.panthera.org/programs/tiger/tigers-forever/Myanmar), which, at 6748 squaremiles, is larger than all of India’s tiger reservesput together.The far north has sparse populations ofKachin, Rawang, Lisu and even a handfulof Taron, the only known pygmy group inAsia. Set well back from the higher peaks,the only settlement of any size is Putao , anoddly diffuse place that has a market but noother real sense of a town centre. This wasthe site of the isolated British WWII militaryoutpost, Fort Hertz, though there’s no fortressto visit.Today the region still feels (and genuinelyis) entirely cut off from the rest of Myanmar.This may change as the airport runway getsextended and new tourism facilities are beingdeveloped. But for now, to get even thebriefest possible glimpse, you’ll have to do anorganised ‘tour’, costing from around $600per person for the shortest four-day option.That will get you to one or two photogenicsuspension footbridges and some unspoiltrural villages, though the latter aren’t markedlydifferent from similar settlements elsewherein rural north Myanmar. Unless youtrek for many days further, the Himalayanhorizon will remain fairly distant, and mightstay hidden altogether by rain clouds. So isit worth the trouble? That really depends onhow you value exclusivity. If you’re comparingtourist numbers, Putao makes Bhutanlook like a veritable Benidorm.The best time to visit is from Octoberto April, when daytime temperatures arequite pleasant and nights are cold but rarelyfreezing.

MU-SE & THE MYANMAR–CHINA BORDER267The border crossing between Mu-se and Ruili (Shweli) in China is nominally open totravellers. However, getting to Mu-se requires a permit that will take at least two weeks tobe issued and even then is only available if you book a package including car, driver andguide through Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) in Yangon (p 69 ) or Mandalay (p 219 ). Thiswill cost around $200 from Lashio where your guide will collect you at a pre-designatedhotel. You’ll need to have your Chinese visa already. In reverse you’ll need to organisethings through a travel agency in Kunming where there’s also a Myanmar consulate(%0871-360 3477; www.mcg-kunming.com; Room A504, Long Yuan Hao Zhai, 166 Wei Yuan Jie;h8.30am-noon & 1-2pm Mon-Fri).Permits are also required for the appallingly rough Mu-se–Namhkam–Bhamoroad. MTT Mandalay (p 219 ) can fix things and provide a Lashio–Bhamo vehicle for$350/370/390 (one/two/three passengers) but again you’ll need at least two weeksprep time. It might take much longer.TToursFor foreign visitors the only way to visit ison a pre-arranged tour. Allow ample timefor organising practicalities as your agencywill need to obtain permits that usuallytake an absolute minimum of two weeksto issue, often much longer. The cheapesttours usually cost from around $150 perperson per day (minimum four days) plusflights to Putao. Tour package fees generallyinclude food, permits and excursionsand/or treks.In the dry season, an appealing part-dayactivity is a boat trip along sections of thedeep green Malikha River alternating betweenrapids and calm pebble-bottomedshallows and passing beaches, sculptedrocks, unspoilt villages and rainforest junglesections.When water levels are higher, whitewaterrafting is a possibility. This might becombined with an interesting excursion toMachanbaw (40 minutes’ drive from Putao).With an attractive setting beside the mirrorcalmMalikha River, Machanbaw was the district’sformer colonial administrative centreand retains a well-spaced scattering of olderBritish-era buildings.Tours typically include some trekking.Even for just a two-day walk you’ll probablyget porters, a good cook and accommodationprovided en route whether campingor in a very basic village homestay or cabin.Longer treks include a 14-day hike to thepeak of 11,926ft Mt Phon Kan Razi, forviews over the Myanmar Himalaya and theMishimi Hills of neighbouring ArunachalPradesh. For an excellent visual impressionof the route’s attractions and challenges seewww.hsdejong.nl/myanmar/putao.Don’t underestimate the rigour of hikinghere. Even the shortest loop includes longdays of fairly strenuous gradients, a highchance of leeches and you’ll need to be preparedfor damp, cold weather.4Sleeping & EatingIn coming years, a major expansion in facilitiescan be expected if Putao developsas planned into Myanmar’s ecotourismgateway. For now, however, unless you’reallowed to stay at the basic ‘army’ guesthouse(www.traveltomyanmar.com/hotel_putao.htm), all tours start and finish with at leastone night at either the stunning but secretiveand massively expensive Tay Za–ownedMalikha Lodge (www.malikhalodge.com),around an hour’s drive from Putao, or at themore affordable Putao Trekking House(www.putaotrekkinghouse.com), a perfectly decentplace but with some inconsistenciesand indifferent food served in a glaringly litdining hall. The cabin rooms are designedso that the small verandahs face a centrallawn rather than the distant mountainhorizon.8Getting There & AwayAIR Twice weekly Air Bagan fl ights to Putao costaround $180 from Yangon, $120 from Mandalayand $60 from Myitkyina but without tour permitsyou won’t be allowed to board the plane. Tourscan be organised through Malikha Lodge, Journeys(www.journeysmyanmar.com), MTT (p 69 )and assorted Yangon agencies.Road transport from Myitkyina would beappallingly rough but isn’t permitted anywayfor foreigners. Locals claim that there are onlyaround 20 cars in the whole Putao area.NORTHERN FAR NORTH MYANMAR TOURS TOURS

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdWestern MyanmarRakhaing State . . . . . 270Ngapali Beach . . . . . .270Thandwe . . . . . . . . . . .274Sittwe (Akyab) . . . . . .275Mrauk U(Myohaung) . . . . . . . .279Around Mrauk U . . . . 286Chin State . . . . . . . . . . 287Mt Victoria(Nat Ma Taung) . . . . .287Kalaymyo (Kalay) . . 288Best Places toStay» Royal Beach Motel (p 272 )» Pleasant View Resort(p 272 )» Shwe Thazin Hotel (p 277 )» Mrauk U Princess Hotel(p 284 )Best Places to Eat» Pleasant View IsletRestaurant (p 273 )» Gisspanadi (p 278 )» Mondi stand (p 278 )» Moe Cherry (p 285 )Why Go?Travelling in Rakhaing (Arakan) State, bordering Bangladeshand cut off from the rest of Myanmar by a 600-milelong mountain range, almost feels like you’re in a differentcountry – which, in fact, it once was. The landscape is tropicallylush, proud locals speak the Rakhaing language, thefood comes with more chilli, and the mix of cultures reflectsthe Indian subcontinent.Few tourists head this way and most who do confinethemselves to the relaxing resorts of Ngapali Beach wherethe pristine sand is lapped by the turquoise waters of theBay of Bengal. The more adventurous head to the state’sscrappy, atmospheric capital Sittwe (Akyab) and the oldRakhaing capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung), an amazing archaeologicalsite, studded with hundreds of temples.Looming to the north is elusive, underdeveloped ChinState, a richly traditional area where travel requires governmentpermits, although it’s easy to get a taste of Chin life atriverine villages accessed on boat trips from Mrauk U.When to GoThose wishing to risk the heat or rains outside the highseason (November to March) will find that downpours orjellyfish will discourage much fun at Ngapali Beach. Sittweand Mrauk U receive more rain than most of the country– about 200in per year. Sudden rainstorms during the monsoonseason (mid-May to mid-September) are dangerous iftravelling by boat to Mrauk U, or between Sittwe and Taunggok.Cyclones and tropical storms tend to occur just beforeand after the rainy season.

AungthabyeTaungbyoTeknafMaungdaw00BANGLADESHKodangaukDonpaukBoisterKyunHakhaManaungChannelFalamLotawSAGAINGREGIONGangawChaung UTa ZeBudalinShweboMonywaAyadawCHIN STATETilinMyaingYesagyoMatupiMyingyanPaukPaletwaMindatPakokkuSamiMANDALAYPindawaKampeletREGIONOld Bagan Nyaung UMt VictoriaButhidaung(Nat Ma Taung)Mt PopaKyauktaw MahamuniKyaukpadaungChin VillagesChaukMeiktilaWethali21Mrauk UNang GyarSalin(Myohaung)Myaungbwe SidoktayaPonnagyunYenangyaungMinbyaWaboRAKHAINGSittwe Pauktaw (ARAKAN) STATE MinbuMagwe(Akyab)ThobagwinNgapeHankaDalet Kandauntgyi PadanTaungdwingyiBayAnnBarongaMAGWESakhanmawIslandREGIONYebok2RiverMayuKaladanRiverKyaukpyuLemroRiverDaletRiverSaneAnnRiverMa-eiRiverLamuRiverGwaMindonThayetMyaydeYinnbyeKyunRamreeBay ofIsarbyinBengalPaukkaungManaung TaunggokSinteManaungPyay (Prome)KyunShwedaungPadaungBAGO50 km2 REGION30 milesNgapali BeachThandweNattalinLontha MyabyinI N D I A N O C E A NThabyugyaingMyan-aungAndwe Kywe KyaukkyiGyobingauk(Andrew Bay)KyeinthaliMinhlaSitkwinAYEYARWADYKanthayaREGIONLetpandonChinTaunggok(Taungup)RiverKyeintaliRiverdThandweRiverwinRiverAyeyarwady RiverHinthada269WESTERN MYANMARWestern Myanmar Highlights1 Lose yourself amidhundreds of ruined templesand fortifications in timelessMrauk U (p 279 ), former grandcapital of Rakhaing2 Savour the squid andother seafood at beautifulNgapali Beach (p 270 ),Myanmar’s top beachdestination3 Boat to Chin villages(p 286 ) upriver from Mrauk U,where tattoo-faced womenlead you around by the arm4 Wander about one ofMyanmar’s most exoticscenes: Sittwe’s morningcentral market (p 275 )5 Sort out a permit toclimb Mt Victoria (p 287 ), thecountry's second-highest peak6 Hire a jeep in Mrauk Uand drive to Mahamuni Paya(p 287 ), original home of oneof Myanmar's most veneratedimages of Buddha

270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchangeable terms Rakhaing and Arakan are frequently used and refer to thepeople, the state and the local language. Arakan is actually derived from the way foreignvisitors from centuries ago pronounced the word Rakhaing. As it harkens to the era whenMrauk U was a regional powerhouse, English-speaking locals often use the term with aparticular pride.Names aside, there’s still debate over whether the Rakhaing are actually Bamar (Burmans)with Indian blood, Indians with Bamar characteristics or a separate race (as isclaimed locally). Although the first inhabitants of the region were a dark-skinned Negritotribe known as the Bilu, later migrants from the eastern Indian subcontinent developedthe first Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms in Myanmar before the first Christian millennium.These kingdoms flourished before the invasion of the Tibeto-Burmans from the northand east in the 9th and 18th centuries. The current inhabitants of the state may thus bemixed descendants of all three groups: Bilu, Bengali and Bamar.The Rakhaing proudly speak ‘Arakan’, a language they claim birthed Bamar (and it’scertainly related). But the national government uses Bamar in state communicationsand supposedly forbids study of the Rakhaing script.WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATERAKHAING STATEThe southern half of this state, which canalso be spelled ‘Rakhine’, is the only part thatforeign tourists can reach by bus, in additionto by air. Here you’ll find some of Myanmar’sbest beaches. The northern part of the state,home to the capital Sittwe, must be accessedby air or boat.HistoryRakhaing’s historical roots are linked to thoseof northern India, which held political andcultural sway over the region for centuriesbefore the land fell under Bagan’s (Pagan’s)dominance during medieval times. In 1430the local king Naramithla returned afterthree decades in exile in the Bengali city ofGuar and established a new capital at MraukU, from where Rakhaing was ruled for thenext 400 years. When the British annexed thestate in 1826, the capital was moved to Sittwe.With ethnic Rakhaing making up the majorityof the population, there has been a persistentmove for autonomy from Myanmarsince Independence. In the 2010 election, theRakhaing Nationalities Development Party(RNDP) had 35 of its candidates electedacross the national and local assemblies,making it one of the most successful of theethnic parties.In October 2010 Rakhaing’s coast was batteredby Cyclone Giri, killing over 150 andleaving another 70,000 people homeless.Unlike when Cyclone Nargis hit in 2008, thegovernment took steps to ensure the safetyof those in Giri’s path, evacuating some50,000 people from the port of Kyaukpyu,under development as the terminus for anoil pipeline to China.Ngapali Beach=plI%43It feels weird to think about ‘getting awayfrom it all’ while in Myanmar, but Ngapali’sidyllic palm-lined beach is the place to do it.With pristine white sands on the Bay of Bengal’sblue water, Ngapali – some say namedby a wayward Italian reminiscing about hisNapoli years ago – serves as the country’sbeach hot-spot for a jet-set crew of (mostly)older Europeans and rich locals.The place preserves its fishing-villageroots with small boats heading out day andnight to catch a bounty that is later servedup superfresh in restaurants and hotels. Oxdrawncarts amble along the beach as localsfind the sand-ways a smoother ride than therough one-lane road. And barely a dozenbungalow-style resorts over 2 miles gives alot of space on the beach.Even at the height of the season, Ngapaliis a snoozy, early-to-bed place. But this couldsoon change, as several new big resorts are inthe works and Tay Za (see p 26 ) is said to bebankrolling the extension of the airport, to becompleted in the next three years, to enabledirect flights from Bangkok and Singapore.Peak season is from November to March.Things get even quieter in rainy season(mid-May to mid-September) when flights

dip to twice a week and most hotels eithershut up shop or keep open only a handfulof rooms.1Sights & ActivitiesSouth of the hotels, and easily reached barefootby the beach, is the rustic fishing villageof Jade Taw, where small fish dry on bamboomats across the beach. Even further south isthe bigger village of Lon Tha and an inlet ofthe same name, backed by a sweeping curveof mangrove and sand facing south.On a bayside hill east of Lon Tha is amodest white stupa. It’s worth seeing forits glorious panoramic views – and for theadventure to reach it. To get there, turn leftat the town junction (near the market). Theroad runs parallel to the boat-filled bay andquickly degenerates into a path too sandy toride on; if you're on a bike, leave it with alocal. About five minutes or so after passinga small bridge, you reach the hill steps to thestupa.Ngapali Beach #eAB44Thandwe Airport (2 mi)#æ Ice1 13 Factory4414þ## ú11LIN THAVILLAGE444448#ÿ3#ÿ44441#Ø# ÿ526#ÿ4444# ÿ10# ÿ9Aureum # ÿPalace444444443Bay ofBengal44447# ÿ# þTo Royal Beach Motel(0.1 mi); Pleasant View 2#ÿ4 Resort & Restaurant4444(0.2 mi); InternetShack (0.2 mi);Jade Taw village (0.3 mi);4Lontha village (1 mi) # ÿ4444AB66666666666666‚To Ngapali Golf Course (1 mi);Amazing Ngapali Resort (1.5 mi);‚0 500 m0 0.2 milesNgapaliReservoirNgapali Rd#î 1615# ú121234Four-hour snorkelling trips (per personincl boat, mask & snorkel K15,000), arranged byany hotel or directly with boat owners onthe beach, usually depart at 7am or 8am tocatch the clearest water. Most trips take in afew spots around (private) ‘Pearl Island’ offthe south end of the beach. The coral’s notsuper, but there are plenty of bright red andblue fish to follow. Some snorkellers bringalong fishing rods to drop a line.You’ll need deeper pockets to board theexpat-run Barracuda (www.myanmaraquatictourism.com; half day/day trip $200/400), a cute32ft-long boat accommodating six, for a biggame fishing adventure. It can also be hiredfor picnic trips to private beaches. Bookingscan be made at Lin Thar Oo Lodge.Upscale hotels offer golfing outings to thenine-hole government-owned Ngapali GolfCourse (green fee $10) for about $30.4SleepingIf you’re on a budget, brace yourself: Ngapali’scheapest bed is $20, with very few roomsat this price. There are good midrangeNgapali BeachActivities, Courses & Tours1 Barracuda ............................................A2ÿ Sleeping2 Amata Resort & Spa............................B43 Bayview Beach Resort ........................A24 Laguna Lodge ......................................B45 Lin Thar Oo Lodge ...............................A26 Memento Resort..................................A27 Sandoway Resort ................................B38 Silver Beach Hotel ...............................A29 Tamarind Resort..................................B210 Thande Beach Hotel............................B2ú EatingAmata Resort Restaurant............(see 2)Brilliance...................................... (see 11)Catch/Sunset Bar ....................... (see 3)11 Htay Htay’s Kitchen ............................ A1Lili's Bar........................................ (see 4)Sandoway Resort Restaurant .....(see 7)12 Two Brothers Restaurant ...................B4þ Shopping13 Gallerie Htein Lin Thar......................... A114 Ngapali Art Gallery .............................. A115 Wai Bar La ............................................B3ï Information16 Ngapali Dispensary .............................B3271RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE SIGHTS SIGHTS NGAPALI & & BEACH ACTIVITIES

272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEoptions from $35 up. The ‘Top End’ here coversrooms for $100 and over.If there’s somewhere you particularlywant to stay, plan ahead; during high season(November to March) some hotels can getbooked out, sometimes way in advance. Afew places hike up their rates over the peakChristmas and New Year period, and alsodrop them if open during the rainy season.Nearly all hotels include airport transfer andbreakfast in their rates. Where there isn’t 24hour electricity we note the times the powerkicks in.oPleasant View Resort RESORT $$$(%42511, in Yangon 01-393 086; www.pvrngapali.com; r $100; ai) Ngapali’s best balance ofprice and style, the Pleasant View lives upto its name with a brilliant location at thefar southern end of the beach, close to thefishing village. The 26 rooms, all sea facing,are simply but chicly decorated with a TV,a minibar and a hot-and-cold shower. Thepower clicks on from 2pm to 7am and the resortalso offers beachside massages for $12.Royal Beach Motel HOTEL $$(%42411, in Yangon 01-544 484; www.royalbeachngapali.com; s/d from $35/40) More cosyand personable than other midrange places,the wooden-floored rooms at this complexhave lounge chairs on the deck, and there’s asmall bell by the door that staff chime whenthey call. It also has a great restaurant.Unlike most hotels, it’s set a bit back fromthe beach, with a grove of palms providingeasy-breezy, day-round shade. Higher-pricedrooms face the water.Sandoway Resort RESORT $$$(%42244, in Yangon 01-294 612; www.sandowayresort.com; deluxe $180, garden-view/sea-viewcottages $240/300, villas $300-340; ais)With palm-shaded walkways leading pastwell-tended gardens and ponds, this Italian–Myanmarjoint venture offers lovelytwo-storey bungalows with lofty ceilings andappealing craft details. You get no TV, butthere’s a massive communal screening roomfor movies, comfortably set out with paddedarmchairs. There’s also a mezzanine librarywith a couple of free internet terminalsabove a bar, next to a giant pool. It charges$10 for the transfer from the airport. Ratesalmost double during 22 December to 15January and dip slightly in October, Apriland May.Amata Resort & Spa RESORT $$$(%42177, in Yangon 01-665 126; www.amataresort.com; r from $120, cabana cottage/sea-view villa$195/315; ais) Owned by a Yangon sea captain,this swish complex of gorgeous twostoreycabanas and rooms (request rooms 701and 702 for their brilliant beach views) is Ngapali’smost stylish, although it loses points forless than stellar maintenance. Still, it’s a veryappealing, friendly resort set back from thebeach in lush gardens with a handsome Morris8 and wood-panelled Wolseley outside forshow. Ngapali’s lone tennis court ($7) is nextto the business centre, offering wi-fi access for$15 for the duration of your stay.Bayview Beach Resort RESORT $$$(%42299, in Yangon 01-504 471; www.bayview-myanmar.com; garden-view/sea-view bungalows$150/160; ais) This luxurious German–Myanmar joint venture occupies a nice stripof beach, with a rare on-the-beach bar. The45 swanky bungalows have an inviting, basiclayout, and lounge chairs on the privatedeck. Guests can rent out windsurfers, kayaksand catamarans ($5 to $10 per hour).Laguna Lodge HOTEL $$(%43122, in Yangon 01-501 123; www.lagunalodge-myanmar.com; r $50-60) For a ‘house on thebeach’ feel, the 12-room Laguna, run by aGerman chef, goes rustic with dark-wood,open-shuttered windows and huge balconies.Mosquito nets hang over the big bedsand a giant circular window in the bathroomprovides views through the room tothe beach. There are tea- and coffee-makingfacilities in the rooms and a beachside massageservice. Electricity is available 6pm tomidnight.Thande Beach Hotel HOTEL $$$(%42788, Yangon 01-546 225; www.thandebeachhotelmyanmar.com; garden-view/sea-view r $110/130;ais) The least stylish of the upmarket resorts,the Thande is nevertheless a pleasantplace to bunk, offering a spa surrounded bygardens and a handy mid-beach location.Memento Resort HOTEL $$(%42441, in Yangon 01-228 556; ngapalimementoresort@gmail.com; s/d from $20/25; a) The handfulof rooms without sea views are clean andcheap (for Ngapali), but may offer only a bed,a cold-water shower and a fan. They're finefor a short stay. There’s several more comfyand beach-facing rooms too, and staff areeager to please. Power available from 5.30pmto 7am.

Lin Thar Oo Lodge HOTEL $$(%42322, in Yangon 01-503 721; www.lintharoo-ngapali.com; s/d from $30/35; a) Offers 20mostly sea-facing, simple, cottage-typerooms, the more expensive have a minibar,a TV and air con. Three basic rooms ($25)with a fan and cold-water showers are setback from the beach in a concrete block.Electricity is on from 6pm to 6am.Silver Beach Hotel HOTEL $$(%in Yangon 01-381 898; www.silverbeachhotelngapali.com; r/ste $65/100; ai) At the beach’snorth end, Silver Beach is the cheapest wayto go for 24-hour electricity. The prim, redroofedcottages conjure up the look of a1950s British holiday camp, with dated furnishingsand facilities to match.Amazing Ngapali Resort RESORT $$$(%42011, in Yangon 01-203 500; www.amazing-hotel.com; s/d from $120/125; aWs) Favoured bytour groups, the spacious and well-equipped36 double-storey villas at this resort nearthe airport all face the beach. You’re isolatedhere, though, from the more appealing NgapaliBeach several miles south.Under construction at the time of research,but looking promising, are the luxuriousTamarind Resort next to the Aureum Palaceand the 28 bungalow Amara Ocean Resort(www.amaragroup.net; d from $350; aiWs) runby a Burmese-Myanmar couple and the onlyhotel north of Thandwe Airport.5Eating & DrinkingCheap, fresh and plentiful, Ngapali’s seafood(particularly fresh squid dunked inspiced ginger-and-garlic sauce) ranks easilyamong Myanmar’s best dining. The longlights that line the western horizon offshoreat dusk are fishing boats using bulbs to attractsquid.A dozen family-run restaurants of varyingquality cluster outside the gates of hotels.These have practically identical menus(posted in English) and prices. A dish ofcrab, squid or barracuda starts from K2000or K2500, barbecued tiger prawns are K3500to K5000, and lobster is K15,000 and up.Food is more nicely prepared and presentedinside the hotels – but you’ll generally paymore for this.oPleasant ViewIslet Restaurant SEAFOOD, BAMAR $$(near Pleasant View Resort; dishes K4000-K10,000;hlunch & dinner) Set on a rocky islet at thebeach’s south end (you may have to wadethrough knee-deep surf to get to it), this stylisheatery serves very tasty seafood at a betterprice than most hotels. It’s also perfectfor sunset cocktails and nibbles.oSandoway ResortRestaurant ASIAN, EUROPEAN $$$(Sandoway Resort; dishes $6-48; h7am-10pm) Anelegant place to dine by the beach with themost creative menu among the big resortrestaurants. The Italian co-owners ensurethat the pasta ($10 to $14) is made al denteand you can also dip into local dishes, suchas laphet thoke (tea-leaf salad; $6).Htay Htay’s Kitchen BAMAR, CHINESE $$(Ngapali Rd; dishes K1500-K3500; h7am-11pm)At the north end of the beach, this restaurantand gift shop is run by a very friendlycouple. Expect the usual grilled seafood andcurries as well as some more unusual items,such as various types of tempura and a saladand drinks made using giant lemons fromMrauk U as an ingredient.Brilliance BAMAR, SEAFOOD $$(dishes K1500-4000; h7am-10pm) This is a simpleplace, but it serves fairly brilliant seafoodthat’s far more reasonably priced than in thebig hotels.Two Brothers Restaurant BAMAR, SEAFOOD $$(Ngapali Rd; dishes R3000-7000; hnoon-9.30pm)One of the more reliable operations on theNgapali Rd strip, with a touch more classin its overall presentation. Tables have nattyblue-and-white tablecloths and there’s wineavailable.Amata Resort Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$$(Amata Resort; dishes $8-20; h7-10am, 11am-2pm& 6.30-10.30pm) This hotel restaurant overlooksthe pool and beach. It serves prettygood pizzas ($8 to $10) and a real-deal beefburger ($8).Lili’s Bar INTERNATIONAL $$(Laguna Lodge; meals $4-6; h7am-11pm) A cutespot in the palm-shaded sand with a lazydog or two lolling around, fake turtles, generousplates of pasta and $2 mojitos.Catch/Sunset Bar INTERNATIONAL $$$(Bayview Beach Resort; dishes $5-24) Bayview’srestaurant is called Catch and is locatedaway from the beach, but everyone eatsfrom the Catch’s menu by dining at SunsetBar, which is by the beach. It’s good for filletsof barracuda, burgers and pizzas.273RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE EATING EATING NGAPALI & & BEACH DRINKING

274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETAUNGGOKSTOP OVERIf you’re planning on connecting toSittwe from Ngapali Beach by boat,you’re most likely going to have to overnightin Taunggok. Only a couple of verybasic guesthouses near the bus stationtake foreigners. Be prepared at the RoyalGuest House (%61088; r K6000) forlumpy beds and no hot water.7 ShoppingThe broad souvenir selection at Htay Htay’s(see p 273 ) is worth a browse and you canwatch fabric weavers working on looms atthe rear.Ngapali Art Gallery (www.ngapaliartgallery.com; h9am-6pm) In Lin Tha Village, justbeyond the north end of Ngapali Beach, isthe atelier and gallery of San Naing whosemainly abstract canvases are priced from$100 to around $4500.Gallerie Htein Lin Thar (h9am-9pm) Nextto Ngapali Art Gallery and representing arange of artists selling colourful works. Agift shop and cafe were in the process ofbeing set up when we dropped by.Wai Bar La (Main Rd, near entrance to SandowayResort; h8am-8pm) Attractive woodcarvings by the son of the craftsman whodecorated the Sandoway Resort.8InformationNgapali Dispensary (%42233; h9am-noon,1-4pm) is a charity-built clinic across from SandowayResort with English-speaking staff.Upscale hotels allow nonguests to use theirinternet (per 30 minutes/hour $3/6) or there’sa small internet shack (one hour K3000;h9am-9pm) opposite the Pleasant View Resort.Most hotels can place international calls ($6per minute).8Getting There & AwayAirThandwe airport is named for the town 4 milesinland, but is closer to Ngapali village. Hotelbuses meet planes typically offering free transportto Ngapali Beach.Both Air Bagan (%42429) and Air Mandalay(%42404) serve Yangon ($78 to $86; daily; 50mins) and Sittwe ($65 to $71; daily; 40 mins)Air Mandalay offer a daily connection from (butnot to) Heho/Inle Lake ($116; one hour). Connectionsare less frequent from May throughSeptember.BoatCatch a bus to Taunggok. Fifty miles or sonorth of Thandwe, Taunggok is a stopping-offpoint for travellers between Pyay (Prome) andThandwe by bus, or for catching the MalikhaExpress (%60127; $40; nine hours) boat toSittwe at 7am on Monday, Wednesday andSaturday.BusAung Thit Sar (%65363) run daily buses toYangon via Thandwe and Pyay (K15,500; 17 to 18hours); you’ll pay the same if you only go as faras Pyay (12 hours). Tickets are sold by hotels inNgapali Beach, and the bus will pick you up fromyour accommodation. The road – particularlybetween Taunggok and Pyay – has the reputationof being one of Myanmar’s hardest, bounciest,most stomach-churning trips. Bring warmclothes, as the ride over the mountains at nightgets cold. For more details see p 146 .The other just-as-rough option to Yangon(K15,500; 17 to 18 hours) is via Gwa (supposedlyeight hours).8Getting AroundPick-up trucks run frequently from Thandwe toNgapali Beach and on to Lon Tha village (K400,one hour). Catch one in either direction on themain road.Bicycles can be rented from most hotels forK2500 per day; and a few motorbikes are availablefor K15,000.Thandweo®tâE%43 / POP C50,000Located about 4 miles inland to the northeastof Ngapali Beach, Thandwe fills a hillyvalley with its low-key streets. It’s been a keyRakhaing town for many centuries. Whenthe British stationed a garrison here aroundthe turn of the 20th century, they twistedthe name into Sandoway.There are no licensed places to stay andeating boils down to noodles around themarket, or rice-’n’-curry restaurants on sidestreets a block north and south. While nota major destination, Thandwe makes for anice visit if you’re staying at Ngapali Beachand fancy a change of scene.

1SightsHoused in a former British jail in the centreof town, the Thandwe market (h6am-4pm)is where a handful of daytripping guestsfrom beach resorts go in search of a ‘realdeal’ market. Vendors sell medicinal herbs,clothes, textiles, some souvenirs, hardwareand free-market consumer goods. Across thestreet on the north side is the Suni Mosque,Thandwe’s largest of five.Three golden stupas stand on hilltops atfour points around Thandwe. None are spectacularin themselves (and all the namesrhyme with each other), but each offersexcellent viewpoints of the town’s tin roofs,peeking out of a sea of palms and hills.The tallest, Nandaw Paya, a mile west ofthe market, was supposedly erected in AD761 by King Minbra to enshrine a piece of arib of the Buddha. The long shrine facing thestupa to the south houses some nice woodcarvingreliefs of Buddha’s life.Just east of town, right across a smallriver about half a mile from the market, theSandaw Paya was supposedly built in AD784 by Rakhaing King Minyokin to housea Buddha hair, and was rebuilt by the Burmesein 1876.Across the river (north past the bus stationand east on a stone road about 1.3 miles fromthe market), the Andaw Paya is the loweststupa but has revealing glimpses of the river’sfork from the hills east. It claims to house aBuddha molar relic and dates from AD 763.8Getting There & AwayPick-up trucks from Ngapali run every 30 minutes(K500; one hour). Pick-ups to Taunggok(K2500; four or fi ve hours) run several timesdaily from a small station a couple of hundredyards north of the bus station (across the river).Sittwe (Akyab)cc'etâ%43 / POP C200,000Rakhaing’s capital Sittwe (pronounced ‘Sit-TWAY’ by Burmese, ‘Sigh-TWAY’ by Rakhaing)may look scrappy but it sits in anincredible spot – where the wide, tidal KaladanRiver kisses the big fat Bay of Bengal.Most foreign travellers skedaddle to MraukU as soon as possible. Those willing to lingerhere will find a lot to like.There’s good sunset viewing at dusk, plusa fish and fresh produce market that’s oneof Myanmar’s more fascinating. You’re alsolikely to be swarmed by chatty monks atone of the Buddhist museums in town. Themix of locals – Rakhaing, Muslims, IndianHindus, Burmese – is also more pronouncedhere than in other major Myanmar cities.HistoryPrior to the Burmese invasion of the MraukU kingdom in 1784 there was little morethan a village here. Fifty years later, Sittwe’seconomy underwent a boom when Britishforces took over during the first Anglo–BurmeseWar. The British moved the state capitalhere from Mrauk U and named the placeAkyab after the local pagoda, Ahkyaib-daw.Incoming wealth from cargo trade withCalcutta fuelled the construction of somefine colonial mansions, but much of thegrace was lost under heavy WWII fightingbetween the British and Japanese forces.Today, the town’s economy is set to benefitfrom the construction of a new harbour – ajoint venture between Myanmar and India –next to the municipal market and a rail linkto Ann-Minbu which will go via Mrauk U.1SightsMost of Sittwe’s action runs along the MainRd, which parallels the Kaladan River. Theairport is about 1.5 miles southwest of the centre;the main boat jetty is about 2 miles north.Central MarketMARKET(Strand Rd; h6am-6pm) Focussed on the 1956municipal market building, there’s lots goingon here from dawn up to noon andbeyond – it’s well worth popping by beforeyour boat or plane leaves. Head straight pastlongyi, fishing net and vegetable stands tothe fish and meat area, where stingrays andgutted eels and drying sharks make quite ascene. In the bay, small boats jostle for spaceto unload their catch.A few blocks north is the Rice Market,with tiny lanes between the water andStrand Rd filled with simple wood homes,where traders hawk brown and sticky rice –some bound for Bangladesh.View PointBEACH(Strand Rd) The riverside Strand Rd leadsabout 1 mile south to a smashing locationcalled the View Point where you can sip on abeer or fresh coconut as the sun sets over theBay of Bengal. Just west, in front of a closednaval base, is a broad, grey-brown sandbeach that has a tricky undertow, where afew swimmers lose their lives each year.275RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE SIGHTS SIGHTS SITTWE (AKYAB)

276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESittwe (Akyab)123‚To Maka KuthalaKyaungdawgyi(0.5 mi);Boat JettyPark (1.5 mi)# ÿ15 #ï86Kyayoug 16 # ÿ#Kyaung# # æÚÚ ##17Shwezedi ð#RiceMarketKyaung3 # á#ñZeigyo St # æ(Market St) # æFishYe Dwin St (MerchantSt)MarketKyaw Zan Swe StMill RdMyo LweChaung StSet Yone Su StU Ottama StHtee Dan St66 667 # ÿ # â4Jama Mosque# ß## ú12 úNew14ý#harbour underSittwe Cinema# ú developmentUniversity111#æ # ÿ9To LokanandaPaya 5#ÿ î#Hospital RiverKaladan(0.4 mi); 10 #òAirport City # ú # á2(1.2 Hallmi) # æTo View Point# ú 13 (1.5 mi)‚AAMinbargyi Rd‚May Yu St‚‚‚‚‚#eMain RdNga Pain StStrand RdBowdhi Rd0 400 m0 0.2 milesBLokananda PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEelCknNÌC.ur;"(May Yu St) You can’t miss this big goldenpagoda between the airport and the centre,endowed by General Than Shwe himself in1997. Its gilded, cavernous worship hall heldaloft by decorated pillars is pretty spectacular.Rakhaing State Day is staged here.On the west side of the compound is asmall ordination hall, which houses theintriguing Sachamuni Image, a bronzebuddha, the surface of which is entirely encrustedwith mini-buddhas. Apparently theimage dates from 24 BC and is said to havebeen found by Mrauk U fishers in recentyears. It was moved from Mrauk U by thegovernment in 1997.Jama MosqueRakhaing State Cultural Museum MUSEUM(Main Rd; admission $2; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)The government-run Rakhaing State CulturalMuseum features two floors of Rakhaingcultural goodies that benefit from justenough English subtitles. On the groundfloor, diagrams and artefacts detail Rakhaing’sorigins (around 3000 BC) and four keyperiods (Dhanyawadi, Vesali, Lemro andMrauk U), compelete with useful renderingsand models.B123Sittwe (Akyab)æ Top SightsFish Market ..........................................B2Jama Mosque ......................................B2Rice Market .......................................... B1Shwezedi Kyaung ................................A2æ Sights1 Fruit Bat Trees .....................................A32 New Clock Tower.................................A33 Old Clock Tower ..................................B24 Rakhaing State CulturalMuseum.............................................B2ÿ Sleeping5 Mya Guest House ................................A36 New Palace Hotel................................. B17 Noble Hotel ..........................................A28 Prince Guest House............................. B19 Shwe Thazin Hotel...............................B3ú Eating10 Gisspanadi ...........................................A311 May Yu..................................................B312 Moe Plearl ............................................A213 Mondi Stand.........................................A3Mya Teahouse ..............................(see 5)River Valley Seafood Restaurant (see 6)14 Utingdameer........................................B2ï Information15 Khine Pyi Soe ....................................... A1ï Transport16 Air Mandalay ........................................ A117 Malikha Express................................... B1Upstairs are displays on local customs(such as models showing off some of the 64traditional Mrauk U royal hairstyles – all ofwhich look pretty similar) as well as drawingsillustrating key moves you may need forRakhaing wrestling.MOSQUE(Main Rd) Next to the museum, this impressive1859 building could have been ripped out thepages of Arabian Nights. Sadly, it appearslittle used by the town’s Muslim communityand is haunted by desperate looking beggars.There’s a good restaurant in its courtyard.FMaka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi MUSEUM(Large Monastery of Great Merit; Main Rd; h7am-9pm) Monk U Bhaddanta Wannita spent 49years collecting old coins and buddha imagesfrom monasteries to protect them from

thieves. Some of his collection is displayedin his former monastery, which is housed in(of all things) a grand, century-old Britishcolonial mansion about half a mile north ofthe centre. The dusty, eclectic museum upstairscontains cases of old banknotes, buddhasand votives (candleholders) and coinsfrom the Mrauk U and other ancient periods,plus many bone relics of head monks,kept in small tins. Plenty of friendly Englishspeakingmonks will follow you around.On the ground floor is a bronze statue of UBhaddanta Wannita.If you’re interested in this kind of thing,there’s also the government’s BuddhisticMuseum (Baw Dhi St; admission $5) closer tothe airport.Shwezedi KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYeráectIekY;='"(U Ottama St; admission free; h24hr) Partlyhoused in a picturesque, ramshackle colonialerabuilding on a backstreet, this monastery iswell worth searching out, particularly duringBuddhist festivals. This was the monastery ofU Ashin Ottama (1880–1939) a leader of theBurmese independence movement duringBritish colonial rule, who died during imprisonmentfor his political activities. In September2007 monks at this monastery followedin his footsteps and took part in the protestmarches then happening across the country.Don’t miss the Fruit Bat Trees aroundSittwe University, where hundreds of fruitbats slumber during the day then head offat dusk – there’s a great view of their migrationfrom the roof of the Shwe Thazin Hotel.Nearby, at the foot of Main Rd is New ClockTower, a painted concrete pillar topped withpagoda style hat. The Victorian-era Old ClockTower is a rusting, yet handsome iron affairon Main Rd, just west of the Central Market.zFestivals & EventsThe Rakhaing State Day (a Saturday in midDecember) is staged at Lokananda Paya, withtraditional wrestling, bamboo pole climbingand tug-of-war – it’s well worth delaying adeparture to see it. Locals may tell you thereal Rakhaing day is December 31, ‘whenMrauk U fell – it’s more a day to grieve’.4SleepingAt the three budget options, all of which coulduse more love, electricity runs from about6pm to 11pm. The far more comfy midrangeoptions include round-the-clock generators.oShwe Thazin Hotel HOTEL $$(%23579; www.shwethazinhotel.com; 250 MainRd; s/d $30/35; a) A bit more polished thanNoble, the Shwe Thazin is proud of a 5thfloorrestaurant, and (higher up) a lookoutdeck, good for glimpses of those fruit batsat dusk. Rooms are clean and modern (withmini-balconies), if not overly stylish.Noble Hotel HOTEL $$(%23558; 45 Main Rd; noble@myanmar.com.mm;s/d $25/35; a) This modern hotel has smallbut clean carpeted rooms with a desk, ateapot and a satellite TV with a few moviechannels. Nothing fancy, but the best dealfor recovering from the boat ride back fromMrauk U. There’s no lift, so ask for a room onone of the lower floors – unless you need aworkout climbing the stairs.Mya Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$(%22358, 23315; 51/6 Bowdhi Rd; s/d $20/30) Abit off Main Rd, this guesthouse and tea gardenis dominated by a century-old, blue-andredmansion once home to a British lawyerwho is said to have put the first Mercedes onSittwe streets. The main building now housesstudents, but a new brick building to theside offers simple, spacious, tiled rooms, withfans and private bathrooms (no hot water).Prince Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%22539, in Yangon 09 503 4780; http://mraukuprince.com/sittweprince.htm; 27 Main Rd; s/dTHE ROHINGYAOne controversial topic of conversationon Sittwe’s streets is the state’s Rohingyaminority. The Myanmar governmentdenies the existence of this group,which consists of anywhere between750,000 and 1.5 million Muslims (andnot to be confused with another localMuslim group, the ‘Rahkaing Muslims’).According to Amnesty Internationaland the Arakan Rohingya NationalOrganisation (www.rohingya.org), Rohingya– who speak a Bengali dialect –are routinely subjected to persecutionin Myanmar, including arbitrary taxes,forced labour, forced relocation, rapeand murder. Within Rakhaing, Rohingyamust seek permission just to travel tothe next village. For more about thisissue, see the Kaladan Press Network(www.kaladanpress.org).277RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE FESTIVALS SITTWE (AKYAB)& EVENTS & EVENTS

278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDAY TRIPS FROM SITTWEHave a day to spare? Consider takingone of the following boat trips, both ofwhich can be arranged by Khine PyiSoe (p 279 ). The most potentially interestingis to the weaving village Wabo(K60,000, plus $20 for an Englishspeakingguide) a 90-minute boat ridefrom Sittwe, to see Rakhaing-style longyibeing made; the Rakhaing are knownin Myanmar as skilled weavers who canproduce intricate designs in their cloths.The other is to hilly Baronga Island(K60,000), across the wide KaladanRiver, to see a typical fishing village.$6/12) English-speaking staff with somehandy travellers’ advice make up for therather dingy rooms (small, with a fan anda mosquito net and coil) and shared bathroomsyou’ll want to wear sandals in. Checka few rooms before choosing – some are betterthan others. There’s also a lone ‘familyroom’ with private bath and air-con (runningfrom 7pm to 11pm only) that is $10/$15per single/double.New Palace Hotel HOTEL $(%21996; 5 Main Rd; s/d from $10/16) Is everythingelse full? Little is new about the Palace.Rooms are rundown and a bit depressing.Spring a few extra dollars for the brighterrooms on the upper floors.5Eating & DrinkingoGisspanadi CHINESE, RAKHAING $(Minbargyi Rd; dishes K2000-4500; h6am-10pm)This friendly, family Chinese-Burmese restaurant– along a strip of eateries, just east ofcity hall – is a standard spot, busy with localmen sitting over tables of fried fish fingers(better than they sound), grilled prawns andMyanmar beer bottles.Mondi Stand RAKHAING $(May Yu St; bowl K200; h6am-6pm) Mondi is theRakhaing-style fish noodle soup downed bylocals for breakfast. It’s similar to mohingabut comes with chillies not peanuts, and ofteneel not fish. Sittwe’s best – many claim –is served at the tiny mondi stand facing thecity hall. If you’re feeling frisky ask for theultra spicy abu shabu. Students from thenearby university pour in for lunch.Mya Teahouse BAMAR $(51/6 Bowdhi Rd; tea K200; h6am-5pm) Sit onbright-blue plastic chairs under shady treesamid the potted plants and flowers at thisdelightful teahouse: a perfect place to reviveover a cuppa with various sweet and savourysnacks. Good for a breakfast of fried rice ormohinga, too.Utingdameer INDIAN $(Main Rd; meal K1000; h10am-3pm) At the backof the compound in which the Jama Mosquesits, this family-run canteen dishes up a bargainlunch of several tasty curries and vegetabledishes with rice.Moe Plearl TEAHOUSE, BAKERY $(80 Main Rd; cakes K100-200; h6am-7pm) Runfor 20 years by the same Chinese family, thissmart little bakery and cafe is a good spot tostock up on biscuits, cakes and savouries forjourneys, or to rest and enjoy a tea or coffee.River Valley SeafoodRestaurant CHINESE, RAKHAING $$(5 Main Rd; set meals K300-5000; h7am-10.30pm)Popular with many foreigner visitors,Sittwe’s fanciest restaurant offers open-airspace and wall murals, including a largeblown-up photo of a tattooed-faced Chinwoman. The menu lists many seafood options,plus a handful of spicy Rakhaing-styledishes. Some waiters wear bowties.May Yu CHINESE, RAKHAING $$(Strand Rd) Seafood spot done up like aCaribbean shack, with a blue-and-greenwood house and plank-board deck facingthe water.View Point RAKHAING $$Simple restaurant on Bay of Bengal, 1.5miles south of the centre via Strand Rd.8InformationYou are highly likely to encounter a certain localtout (at the time of research going by the nameof Mr Learn) when you arrive (and no matterhow you arrive, he’ll fi nd you). His rates for boattransfers are not above the norm but he will tryto secure commissions for arranging whateveryou do (such as boats to Mrauk U or hotels inSittwe). He’s harmless, but persistent enough toannoy some travellers. Also see www.lonelyplanet.com/myanmar-burma for further informationon travelling in Myanmar.Outside the generator-run midrange hotels,electricity runs generally from 6pm to 11pm only.In the rainy season, clouds can sometimes cuttelephone communication. Sittwe’s hospital

(%23511; Main Rd) and post office are bothnear the new clock tower.Internet AccessKISS (Main Rd; K500 per hr; hnoon-9pm) Haswebcams and plenty of terminals, though connectionscan be sloooow.Travel AgenciesKhine Pyi Soe (%23159, 09 851 61162; 25 MillRd) Housed in the home of a former karateteacher, this unlikely agency can arrange boatsto Mrauk U (K130,000 return; the boat waits upto three nights while you explore Mrauk U) andvarious day trips (p 278 ).TO MRAUK U The only way to/from Mrauk U forforeigners is by boat. There are a few options.You will have offers for a private boat (from$120; fi ve to six hours) – a simple tarp-coveredboat with fl at deck, a few plastic chairs and avery basic toilet – before you can get out ofthe airport. Generally a boat can fi t four to sixpeople, with a driver who will wait with the boatfor two or three nights. Ask ahead about thecost if you decide to stay another day in MraukU, which often happens. If you arrive in Sittwe inthe afternoon, don’t expect to be able to leave onsuch boats until early the next day.The double-decker ferry to Mrauk U ($4, six toseven hours) is run by the government’s InlandWater Transport (IWT; %23382), which has anoffi ce 90yd west of the Mrauk U jetty, thoughthere’s no need to buy tickets in advance. Ferriesdepart Sittwe Tuesday and Friday, and returnfrom Mrauk U on Wednesday and Saturday.Deckchairs are available for rent (K500) andthere’s a stall serving basic food. We’re toldthere’s also a similar private ferry service ($10)leaving Sittwe on Monday and returning on Tuesday.See p 22 before deciding to use governmentrunservices.The fastest boat is the Shwe Pyi Tan (%09-8628145; $15; two hr) that departs Sittwe at3pm on Monday and Wednesday and Mrauk U at7am on Tuesday and Thursday.TO TAUNGGOK Malikha Express (%24248,24037; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) sells tickets forthe 130-person fast boat for Taunggok ($40,nine hours), which departs at 7am on Monday,Thursday and Saturday. The boat stops in theisland port town of Kyaukpyu ($20) for 30 or 40minutes for lunch.2798Getting There & AwayOverland routes between Sittwe and Yangon (aswell as to Mrauk U) are closed to foreigners. Thefollowing information is for the dry season –schedules are different in the wet season andfrom year to year, so double check everythingwell in advance.AirSittwe’s airport is about 1.5 miles west of thecentre. Taxis (K2500 to K3000) and trishaws(K1000) await fl ights.In peak season Air Mandalay (%21638; UOttama St) and Air Bagan (%23113) fl y daily toYangon ($108; one hour 25 mins) and Thandwe($78; 40 mins).Flight schedules are erratic. Before leavingSittwe, you must reconfi rm your booking – yourhotel should be able to help.BoatMrauk U (Myohaung)e¨m;k'wI"%043 / POP C50,000‘Little Bagan?’ Not by a long shot. Myanmar’ssecond-most-famous archaeologicalsite, Mrauk U (pronounced ‘mraw-oo’) is acenturies-old city of hundreds of templesaround which village life thrives. The temples– previously mistaken for forts due tothick bunker-style walls built against thefierce Rakhaing winds – are smaller andyounger than Bagan’s. Being here is as muchabout seeing temples in the gorgeous sceneryof rounded hillocks as about minglingwith the goatherds and vegetable farmerswho live around them (unlike Bagan).Much of the locals’ daily activity seemsto be taken up with water trips. Instead ofthe usual clay pots or rectangular oil cans,Mrauk U residents carry shiny aluminiumwater pots (imported from Bangladesh) ontheir hips or heads.You’re likely to have many temples toyourself: in a good year, only about 3500 to4000 foreign visitors come. The site’s remotelocation, a five to seven hour boat ride up acreek of the Kaladan River, and lack of governmentpromotion, means this is unlikelyto change in the short term.MRAUK U FEESFor foreign visitors to Mrauk U there’san archaeological site ‘entry fee’ of $5;this is usually collected at the ShittaungPaya or at the boat jetty; on the governmentferry you’ll be asked to show proofof payment before leaving. But manypeople arriving and leaving by privateboats manage to avoid paying the feewith little consequence. The palace sitemuseum also charges $5 for entry.RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE 8 8 MRAUK U (MYOHAUNG)

280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U (Myohaung)0 800 mWESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATE1233#ÚShittaung Paya Mahabodhi# Ú25 Shwegu4#Ú #þ # Ú9# ##ÚDukkanthein Paya Ú Ú Andaw12 # Ú Paya# ÿ# ÚKothaung1910# ÿ# Ú16#ó# Ú11PayaMrauk U#ÿHotelLokamanaung # Ú# Ú 1 ShwegudaungRhill7 # Ú# ÿ 2914 # ˜ ú#24ú#22 5 #â21 # ÿ17Waze Creek# 28Market # æ# Ú13## ÿÿ# î2026Phara Baw Cree k15# ÿð#AAungdat Creek23ú#f#30## ÿ 2718BandoolaKyaung # ÚFor visitors coming on pre-arranged privateboats, it’s necessary to let the driverknow how much time you’ll need in MraukU (though it can often be changed, with anextra charge). Two full days is the minimumnecessary to see the area; add on another forthe day trip to the Chin villages (recommended)and another if you plan to explore on yourown after you’ve seen the greatest hits.HistoryMrauk U (meaning, bizarrely, Monkey Egg)was the last great Rakhaing capital for 354years, from 1430 to 1784, when it was oneof the richest cities in Asia. In its heyday, itserved as a free port, trading with the MiddleEast, Asia, Holland, Portugal and Spain.The Portuguese Jesuit priest, A. Farinha,who visited in the 17th century, called it‘a second Venice’ while other visitors comparedit to London or Amsterdam. Littleremains of the European quarter, DaingriKan (about 3 miles south of Mrauk U’s currentcentre) other than ruins and a Hindutemple.The Mrauk U dynasty was much fearedby the peoples of the Indian subcontinentand central Myanmar. Japanese Christiansfleeing persecution in Nagasaki were hiredas bodyguards for the king. At Mrauk U’speak, King Minbin (1531–53) created aB‚Aleze Creek2# æLaksaykanLakeC# Ú6naval fleet of some 10,000 war boats thatdominated the Bay of Bengal and Gulf ofMartaban. Many of Mrauk U’s finest temples(Shittaung, Dukkanthein, Laymyetnhaand Shwetaung) were built during hisreign.In the late 18th century, the Konbaungdynasty asserted its power over the regionand Mrauk U was integrated into the Bamarkingdoms centred on Mandalay.After the First Anglo–Burmese War of1824–26, the British Raj annexed Rakhaingand set up its administrative headquartersin Sittwe, thus turning Mrauk U into a politicalbackwater virtually overnight.A rare incidence of the military bowing topopular opinion occurred here in late 2010when a few brave locals protested againstthe planned route of a new railway linkingSittwe with Minbu, construction of whichwas damaging temples and sites within thearchaeological area. The project was haltedand the railway’s route changed.1SightsThe original site of Mrauk U is spread over17.5 sq miles, though the town today andbulk of the temples to visit cover a 2.7-sqmilearea. With a bike, a packed lunch andD123

Mrauk U (Myohaung)æ Top SightsAndaw Paya ............................................B1Bandoola Kyaung .................................. C3Dukkanthein Paya ..................................B1Kothaung Paya ...................................... D2Mahabodhi Shwegu................................C1Shittaung Paya .......................................B115 Mrauk U Princess Hotel.........................A316 Nawarat Hotel ........................................B217 Prince Hotel ............................................D218 Royal City Guest House.........................B319 Shwe Thazin Hotel .................................B220 Vesali Resort Hotel ................................D221 Waddy Htut Guest House......................B2281æ Sightsú Eating1 Haridaung Paya ..................................... B2 22 For You....................................................B22 Laksaykan Gate ..................................... C3 23 Hay Mar...................................................B33 Laungbanpyauk Paya.............................B1 24 Moe Cherry .............................................C24 Laymyetnha Paya...................................B15 Palace Museum ..................................... B2 þ Shopping6 Peisi Daung Paya................................... D2 25 L'amitie Art Gallery ................................ B17 Phraouk Paya......................................... D28 Pitaka Taik...............................................B1 ï Information9 Ratanabon Paya .....................................C1 26 Dr Aye Maung Zan..................................B310 Ratanamanaung .................................... C211 Sakyamanaung Paya............................. C2 ï Transport12 Shittaung Pillar .......................................B1 27 Bicycle Rental Shop ...............................B313 Shwetaung Paya.................................... C2 28 Horse Cart Stand ...................................C229 Jeep Stand..............................................B2ÿ Sleeping30 Jetty ........................................................B314 Golden Star Guest House ..................... B2the stamina for exploration, you could takeany path for DIY adventures.NORTH GROUPFor many, this area is the pick of the litterfor Mrauk U, with all sites within walkingdistance. There are a couple of food stallsand a gift shop below Shittaung.Shittaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLErHc'eoC='".ur;"The usual starting point is at Mrauk U’smost complex temple, the Shittaung (Sittaungin Burmese); if you’ve not paid it already,the $5 zone fee is collected here (seeboxed text, p 279 ). You’ll also be asked for a‘donation’ of K3000 to cover the interior illuminationof this temple, Andaw Paya andDukkanthein Paya.King Minbin, the most powerful of Rakhaing’skings, built Shittaung in 1535. It’sa frenzy of stupas of various sizes; some 26surround a central stupa. Shittaung means‘Shrine of the 80,000 Images’, a reference tothe number of holy images inside (the actualtally is more like 84,000, though some havesince been stolen). Thick walls, with windowsand nooks, surround the two-tiered structure.Outside the templeBeside the southwest entrance stairway, andinside a locked mint-green building, is themuch-studied Shittaung Pillar, a 10ft sandstoneobelisk brought here from Wethali byKing Minbin. Considered the ‘oldest historybook in Myanmar’ (by the Rakhaing at least),three of the obelisk’s four sides are inscribedin faded Sanskrit. The east-facing side likelydates from the end of the 5th century. Thewestern face displays a list dating from the8th century, outlining Rakhaing kings from638 BC to AD 729 (King Anandacandra).Lying on its back next to the pillar is acracked, 12ft-long sandstone slab featuringan engraved lotus flower (a Buddhist motif)growing from a wavy line of water andtouching an intricately engraved dhammacakka(Pali for ‘Wheel of the Law’).Along the outer walls, several reliefs canbe seen engraved (some are hard to reach); afew on the south side are rather pornographic.Inside the templeInside the temple’s prayer hall you’ll see severaldoors ahead. Two lead to passagewaysthat encircle the main buddha image in thecave hall (which is seen straight ahead).RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE SIGHTS SIGHTS MRAUK U (MYOHAUNG)

282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEThe far left (southwest) doorway leads tothe outer chamber, a 310ft passageway withsandstone slabs cut into six tiers. Over 1000sculptures show a lot of detail of Rakhaingcustoms (eg traditionally dressed dancers,boxers and acrobats), beasts of burden, andhundreds of Jataka (scenes from Buddha’spast 550 lives). At each corner are biggerfigures, including the maker King Minbinand his queens at the southwest corner. Thepassage opens in the front, where you canstep out for views.Next to the outer chamber entry is a coilinginner chamber leading past scores ofbuddha images in niches, passing a Buddhafootprint where – it’s said – Buddha walkedduring his post-enlightenment. Once you getto the dead end, double back to the hall, andsee if you can feel the passageway becomingcooler. Some claim it does, symbolising the‘cooling effect’ of Buddhist teachings.Andaw PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEa®etC'.ur;"Immediately northeast of Shittaung stands asmaller, eight-sided monument with a similarlinear layout: rectangular prayer hall tothe east, multispired sanctuary to the west.Sixteen zedi (stupas) are aligned in a squarecorneredU-shape around the southern,northern and western platforms. As at Shittaung,small windows admit light and ventilation,but here the fluorescent glare is dimmer.Two concentric passageways are lined withbuddha niches; in the centre of the shrine, aneight-sided pillar supports the roof.The original construction of the shrine isascribed to King Minhlaraza in 1521. KingMinrazagyi then rebuilt Andaw in 1596 toenshrine a piece of the tooth relic supposedlybrought from Sri Lanka by King Minbinin the early 16th century.Dukkanthein PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEdukÅsim'".ur;"Across the road to the west of Shittaung, theDukkanthein (also spelled Htuk Kant Thein)smacks of a bunker (with stupas). Widestone steps lead up the south and east sideof the building considered to be an ordinationhall; take the east side steps to reach theentrance. Many consider this to be MraukU’s most interesting pagoda.Built by King Minphalaung in 1571,Dukkanthein’s interior features spirallingcloisters lined with images of buddhas andcommon people (such as landlords, governors,officials and their spouses) sportingall of Mrauk U’s 64 traditional hairstyles.The passageway nearly encirclesthe centre three times before reaching thesun-drenched buddha image, now lit byChristmas-style lights too.The poorly restored Laymyetnha Paya,90yd north, looks a bit like a squashed-upversion of the Dukkanthein, but was actuallybuilt 140 years earlier.Mahabodhi ShweguBUDDHIST TEMPLEmhCeb;/ierá8UUThis squat hilltop temple, northeast ofRatanabon Paya in a quiet area with fewervillagers (and visitors), is located past twogold hilltop zedi and a covered water well.Its narrow passageway leads to a 6ft centralbuddha and four buddhas in niches.The best are the 280 Jataka scenes, depictingthe tribumi – Buddhist visions ofheaven, earth and hell – including acrobats,worshippers, and animal love scenes (!) engravedonto either side of the arched entrywalls also.Ratanabon PayaSTUPArtnC.®u.urC"This massive stupa (sometimes called Yadanapon),just north of Andaw Paya, is ringedby 24 smaller stupas. It was apparentlybuilt by Queen Shin Htway in 1612. DuringWWII a bomb nailed it, but it had alreadybeen picked at by treasure hunters attractedby the name, which means ‘accumulationof treasure’. Renovations later repaired theenormous bomb-made crack and reinsertedthe tall chattra (spire).Laungbanpyauk PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEelC='pân'"e¨pCk'.ur;"Back on the road, and 100yd north, is thisoctagonal, slightly leaning zedi built by KingMinkhaungraza in 1525. An unusual feature isits outer wall, adorned with Islamic-inspiredglazed tiles in the shape of large flowers.Pitaka TaikBUDDHIST LIBRARYpi$kt'tuik'At the end of the road, 180yd north, thiscompact, highly ornate stone building isone of the seven Mrauk U libraries left outof the original 48. Covered over by a blueand-maroonshelter, it was built in 1591 byKing Minphalaung as a repository for theTripitaka (Three Baskets; the Buddhistcanon), which was received from Sri Lankain the 1640s. It’s wee – only 13ft long and9ft high.

PAMELA GUTMANAn Honorary Associate in the Department of Art History at the University of Sydney, and authorof Burma’s Lost Kingdoms: Splendours of Arakan, Pamela Gutman has been travellingto Myanmar since the early 1970s when she began work on her PhD on Rakhaing’s ancientart, architecture and inscriptions. The following are her top temple picks in Mrauk U:» Shittaung Paya (p 281 ) Regarded as the repository of Rakhaing national identity.» Dukkanthein Paya (p 282 ) For its mysterious buddha-lined passageways.» Andaw Paya (p 282 ) For its remarkable collection of sculptures.» Mahabodhi Shwegu (p 282 ) An example of the early style of Buddhist sculpture atMrauk U and for its representation of the Buddhist heaven, earth and hell. If you lookcarefully you can spot some erotic carvings on the buddha’s throne – very naughty fora Buddhist temple!283EAST GROUPThis area stretches a mile or so east of thepalace walls.Kothaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEkui"eo;='".urC"One of Mrauk U’s highlights, this restoredtemple is a mile or so east of the palace. At230ft by 250ft, it’s Mrauk U’s largest temple.Built in 1553 by King Minbin’s son, KingMintaikkha, to outdo his pop’s Shittaung by10,000 images (‘Kothaung’ means ‘Shrineof 90,000 Images’), much of it was foundin fragments. Legends vary – that lightningor an earthquake in 1776 destroyed it, jewelseekersoverturned walls, or that it was builtwith inferior stones by a superstitious kingbent on beating a six-month timeline.The outer passageway is lined with thousandsof bas reliefs on the walls and buddhaimages (some headless). Stairways lead upto a top terrace, once dotted with 108 stupas.Get here either on the winding road toSakyamanaung (just north of Moe Cherry),veering right at one fork, or from the east–west road from the market, veering left beforethe bridge.Sakyamanaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEskYmCn'eaC='.urC"Roughly half a mile northeast of the palacewalls, and behind Shwegudaung hill, thisgraceful Mon-influenced zedi was erected in1629 by King Thirithudhammaraza. At thislater stage, stupas were built more verticallyand ornately than before.The lower half of the well-preserved 280ftzedi features a multitiered octagonal shapeas at Laungbanpyauk Paya, but beyond thisthe bells revert to a layered circular shapemounted by a decorative hti (umbrella-liketop). You’ll see brightly painted, half-kneelinggiants at the west gate.Looking over Shwegudaung hill (back tothe west) Ratanamanaung offers fine views.From the path off the road, villagers will probablywalk with you towards Ratanamanaung.Peisi Daung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEpicietC='.ur;"On a hill immediately south of Kothaung,sits this unrestored four-door pagoda, housingfour sandstone buddha images. Pushyour way past the rubble and cobwebs forthe wondrous views from the top. It’s upto you whether you believe the locals whoclaim that it has the honour of keeping testiclerelics of the Buddha.Returning to town you’ll pass thePhraouk Paya, another hilltop pagoda.PALACE SITE & AROUNDJust east of the main strip of Mrauk U village,the one-time royal palace of Mrauk Unow is mostly crumbling walls (though theouter walls still stand 11.5ft high).According to the legend, King Minbin’sastrologers advised a move here in 1429after the palace at Launggret had been invadedby ‘poisonous snakes and evil birds’.His representatives witnessed some strangethings at this spot – an old guy playing aflute pointed to a cat-chasing rat and then asnake-biting frog – apparently suggesting itssoil as being worthy of a king. Constructionbegan in 1430 (though some sources say itdidn’t start until 1553).Palace MuseumMUSEUM(admission $5; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Just insidethe palace’s western walls is the Departmentof Archaeology’s museum, which housesRAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE SIGHTS SIGHTS MRAUK U (MYOHAUNG)

284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBOOKS ABOUTMRAUK UThere are several useful books onRakhaing history and Mrauk U. MyarAung’s paperback Famous Monumentsof Mrauk-U (2007; K3500) is sold ata couple of places in Mrauk U, includingthe Bandoola Monastery and theWaddy Htut Guest House; it has lotsof photos but its poorly translated textisn’t the easiest to follow. Far better isPamela Gutman’s scholarly Burma’sLost Kingdom: Splendours of Arakan(2006), Tun Shwe Khine’s artful AGuide to Mrauk U (1993) and U ShweZan’s more detailed The Golden MraukU: An Ancient Capital of Rakhine(1997), all of which you should searchout before heading to Mrauk U.buddha images, inscribed stone slabs (a15th-century one features ancient Arabicwriting), cannons, Wethali-era coins and ahelpful model of the Mrauk U site. Old photoson the walls include a before-restorationshot of Ratanabon’s crack. Items are signedin English, although foreign scholars notethat the dates on some pieces should betaken with a pinch of salt. If you come on aweekend, ask next door for the key.Haridaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEhCrietC='.ur;"Built around 1750, this small white templewith particularly good westward views, is ona hilltop just north of the palace walls. It’s agood place to get your bearings or to viewsunset.SOUTH GROUPSouth of the palace site and across the riverare evocative, easy-to-lose-your-way backlanes through thatched-hut villages and ahost of pagodas. About half a mile south, theLaksaykan Gate leads to the eponymouslake, a source of clean water.Bandoola KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYbNÖŸlekY;='"Climb the steps to view this rambling hilltopmonastery, home to yet another of buddha’smany scattered molars, a relic broughthere from Sri Lanka in the 16th century. Thecomplex is also known as the Sanda MuniPhara Gri Kyaung, after the Sanda Muni, abuddha statue said to have been cast fromthe precious metal leftover from making theMahamuni buddha (p 287 ).Legend has it that this 4ft image was encasedin cement in the 1850s to protect itfrom pillaging British troops, and then forgottenabout for over a century. In April 1988one of the glazed eyes dropped out, revealingthe metal statue below. It’s now housedin a new building to the rear of the main hallpacked with more ancient buddha imagesthat the monks will happily explain to you.They will also point out a large copper rooftile (used as a table top), saved from MraukU’s palace after the Burmese carted the restoff to Mandalay back in the 18th century.Shwetaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEer¯etC='.ur;"Southwest of the palace, the ‘Golden Hill Pagoda’is the highest in Mrauk U; you can seeit for nearly half the trip from Sittwe. Builtby King Minbin in 1553, it’s accessed by a fewtrails largely lost under thick vegetation. Thisis a good spot from which to view sunrise.zFestivals & EventsOne of the most interesting times to visitMrauk U is during the huge weeklong payapwe (pagoda festival) held near DukkantheinPaya (p 282 ) in mid-May which includesmusic, dance, traditional wrestlingand boat racing.4SleepingGenerators keep power going most of theday and night at some guesthouses; otherwiseexpect power to be on only from 7am to3pm and 6pm to 11.30pm.oShwe Thazin Hotel HOTEL $$(%24200, ext 50168, 09 850 1844; www.shwethazinhotel.com; Sunshaseik Quarter; r from $50; a)This new complex offers the best balance ofprice, comfort and location. There’s a smallbut welcome amount of artistic design in itschalet-style rooms, all of which are en-suitewith a satellite TV and a fridge.Mrauk U Princess Hotel RESORT $$$(%50232, 09 850 0556; www.mraukooprincessresort.net; s/d $170/194; ai) Mrauk U’s mostluxurious digs, the Princess offers 21 beautifullydecorated wooden villas with freshflowers adorning the bed, the bathtub andtables. Gardens and ponds (mosquitoes!)surround the villas and the central monastery-likerestaurant and spa. Rates include

eakfast and dinner, and it’s the town’s onlyhotel with an internet connection.excellent cook. They can also arrange goodtrips to the Chin villages.285Vesali Resort Hotel HOTEL $$(%24200, ext 50008, in Yangon 01-526 593;myathiri@mptmail.net.mm; s/d $40/45) Thoughremoved from the bulk of the temples andtown, the Vesali’s 18 snazzy bungalows offerdark-wood floors, vaulted bamboo ceilings,mosquito nets, private decks and modernbathrooms. Rooms come with battery-poweredlamps. There’s an inviting restaurantup front along with gardens, and behind is apath up to Shwetaung Paya.Royal City Guest House HOTEL $$(%24200, ext 50257; www.newpalacehotelsittwe.com/royal-city.htm; Minbar Gyi Rd, r s/d $15/20,bungalow s/d $25/30; a) This place is convenientlylocated on the road between the jettyand the market, but skip the cell-like roomsin the main building in favour of the smart,new brick bungalow-style rooms across theroad. The air con comes on only from 6pmto 11pm but it claims to have 24 hour hotwater.Nawarat Hotel HOTEL $$(%24200, ext 50077, in Yangon 01-578 786; s $40-50, d $50-60; a) Offering all-night electricity,the Nawarat’s 30-room motel-style complex,a short walk from the (out of sight) ShittaungPaya, suffers a bit in atmosphere.The walled-off compound consists of boxybungalow rooms with air-con, satellite TVsand glow-in-the-dark stars on some ceilings.Identical, cheaper rooms get power 6pm to6am only.Golden Star Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%24200, ext 50175, 09 850 1664; 116 Min Bar GreeRd; per person $5-15) Across from a small reservoir,is Mrauk U’s best cheap deal, withlittle Rakhaing-style figurines and privatecold-water bathrooms in most of the 13 basicrooms. The English-speaking manager isvery helpful, sometimes adding a free lunchfor long stayers. Two ‘traditional house’rooms out the back look out into a palm forest(these are $15).Prince Hotel GUESTHOUSE $(%24200, ext 50174, in Yangon 09 501 9114; www.mraukuprincehotel.com; r $15 & 25) Half a milesoutheast of the market, this leafy complexof nine bungalows sits below a hill in a leafygarden. The rustic bungalows are a bit agedfor the price, but the family who run it areextremely hospitable, and the wife is anWaddy Htut Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%24200, ext 50240; r $5-30) This modernstyletwo-floor house has an OK mix of options– basic rooms with shared bath ($5),a well-lit ‘family room’ with sofa, a fewbeds and a balcony ($30, but negotiable).Rates don’t include breakfast but there’sa teahouse next door and the market isaround the corner.5EatingThere are a few local restaurants facing themarket to the west of the Mrauk U market,serving basic Chinese food. The GamonePhyu restaurant at Mrauk U Princess Hoteland the one at the Vesali Resort Hotel areboth very good and open to nonguests.oMoe Cherry BAMAR, RAKHAING $(%24200, ext 50177; dishes K1000-2000, beerK1500) This friendly, traveller-focused, twostoreyrestaurant, east of the palace walls,serves a few meals and what’s on offerchanges nightly. There’s a deliciously Rakhaingedge to the chicken curry, prawn andvegie dishes (cauliflower’s the best). They’reopen ‘anytime: this is our home’ and the restaurantalso arranges area tours.For You BAMAR, RAKHAING $(dishes K1000) Two blocks north of the market(via the road from the jetty), this plain,concrete-floor restaurant is based at theground level of a traditional wood house.It serves good noodles (with an egg on top)and cans of Myanmar beer.Hay Mar BAMAR $(dishes K1000) This simple teahouse besidethe main jetty is a good spot to watch thecomings and goings on the river while tuckinginto simple dishes, such as fried rice,chicken and vegetables. The owner, AungZan is the local Mr Fix-it – offering boatrides back to Sittwe (from $20 per person)and Chin Village trips (K50,000).7 ShoppingStalls outside the Shittaung Paya sell somesouvenirs. Aung Zan at Hay Mar teahousecan also guide you to a weaver in the village– a short walk or bike ride south of thejetty – who has attractive textile pieces forsale (K2500 to K15,000).RAKHAING WESTERN MYANMAR STATE EATING EATING MRAUK U (MYOHAUNG)

286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL’amitie Art GalleryART GALLERY(paintings $35-100; h7am-7pm) Located in asimple hut opposite the Dukkanthein Paya,L’amitie (French for ‘friendship’) is hungwith attractive canvases in oils and pastelscreated by the 54-year-old ex civil servant,Shwe Maung Thar and his son, Khine MinnTun (29).The paintings are of landscapes and pastoralscenes (that skillfully capture the lightand tranquillity of Mrauk U), still-life compositionsof vegetables, and portraits. ShweMaung Thar also painted the ceiling panelsin the central hall of Shittaung Paya.In 2000 Trevor Wilson, Australia’s ambassadorto Myanmar at the time, met ShweMaung Thar and was so impressed with hiswork that he helped arrange gallery showsin Canberra in 2005 and 2007. Shwe MaungThar’s canvases have also been displayed ata gallery in Vienna and a couple of galleriesin Yangon.Whether you buy or not, Shwe MaungThar is very happy to chat.8InformationIn case of an emergency, the hospital at Sittweis your best bet. For minor bruises and stomachupsets, friendly Dr Aye Maung Zan (%24200,ext 50032; Main Rd), south of the market,speaks English.Mrauk U’s only internet connection is at theMrauk U Princess Hotel ($4 per hour).The town shares a handful of telephone lines,so most local numbers add on an extension. Tomake an international call head to stalls aroundthe market offering connections via cell phones.8Getting There & AwayBOAT For information on boat services to MraukU, see p 279 .The Mrauk U Jetty is about half a mile southof the market. If you don’t want to get back bygovernment ferry, it’s often possible to jumpaboard a fellow traveller’s boat and share costsfor the ride. Negotiating a one-way ‘private boat’ride may be possible too ($20).8Getting AroundHORSE CART Rides around the temples costsabout K10,000 per day (the stand is just southeastof the palace site).JEEP Usually fi tting four plus a driver, a jeepride (arranged by your hotel or from the standon the north side of the palace site) should beK4000 between the jetty and hotels, K18,000around Mrauk U, or K30,000 to the Lemro Riveror Mahamuni Paya.TRISHAW & BICYCLE Rides between the jettyand hotels are K2000. Hotels can get you abicycle for K2000 or K3000, or you could rentone for K1500 from the shop south of the bridgeleading to the central market.Around Mrauk UThe temples are only a part of the area’s attractions.Tack on a few extra days here to enjoya relaxing boat ride down the Lemro Riverto Chin villages, or to venture out to a coupleof archaeological and religious sites north ofMrauk U that are of particular pride for locals.CHIN VILLAGESThe day trip from Mrauk U to various Chinvillages scattered along the nearby LemroRiver is recommended. The boat ride is nicerthan the one to Mrauk U from Sittwe becauseof the chance to observe life (up close) on andalong the river. You can usually stop off at oneof the peanut, chilli or bean farms – locatedon islands or on the riverside – that you passon the way. Time your trip for Tuesday or Saturdayto attend the busy morning market atthe village of Pan Mraun.These boat trips don’t quite reach ChinState, but they do provide an opportunity tomeet elderly Chin women who have tattooedfaces (p 310 ). This traditional practice ended acouple of generations ago; unlike the sad situationof Padaung women (p 192 ), these chatty,proud, old women are the last of their kind.You may feel ambivalent about takingphotos but the women we met didn’t seem tomind posing, having made a conscious decisionto use their unique and soon-to-disappearlooks as a way of attracting tourists andearning money for the betterment of theirimpoverished communities. Simple weavingsare sold in the villages and without touristdonations (you should plan on donating afew thousand kyat) it’s highly unlikely thatthere would be a school building, let alonesalaries for the teachers who work there.8 Getting There & AwayBOAT Typical trips, which your guesthouse orhotel can help arrange, begin at 7am or 8am andinclude a two- to three-hour boat ride each way,and an hour or so at a couple of villages. Thecharge is $90 and includes jeep transfers to theboat, a simple lunch and an English-speakingguide for a boat accommodating up to four passengers.There’s not much in the way of foodor drink to buy in the Chin villages so pack anyextra snacks and water you’ll need.

WETHALIevo;lIAlmost 6 miles north of Mrauk U are the remainsof the kingdom of Wethali (aka Vesali,or Waithali in local parlance). According tothe Rakhaing chronicles, Wethali was foundedin AD 327 by King Mahataing Chandra.Archaeologists believe that this kingdomlasted until the 8th century. Little remainsof the oval-shaped city (and apparentlysome buildings were damaged purposely forroad-building materials in recent years). Thewalls of the 1650ft by 990ft central palacesite are reasonably well preserved.The main attraction for visitors en routeto Mahamuni Paya is the so-called GreatImage of Hsu Taung Pre (Pye), home toa 16.5ft Rakhaing-style sitting buddha. It’ssaid to be carved from a single piece of stoneand date to AD 327 (but most visitors arguethe features look more modern).Regular transport is rare. It’s possible toreach here by bicycle (take the sign that says‘VSL’ and ‘you are here’ east from the mainroad).MAHAMUNI PAYAmh;muni.ur;"Some local Rakhaing recount, with fresh,fiery passion, how the Bamar King Bodawpayasent soldiers to dismantle and removethe Mahamuni buddha in 1784. Originallyhoused here at the Mahamuni Paya, 25miles north of Mrauk U and just north of theformer ancient capital of Dhanyawady, theimage is one of the country’s most famousand venerated. Although the buddha nowresides in Mandalay (p 208 ), its original siteremains a fascinating place to visit.Some Rakhaing believe the image was castwhen Buddha visited the area in 554 BC. Otherssay King Bodawpaya unknowingly tooka counterfeit back to Amarapura (to whichit was originally relocated) and the true onerests under the banyan tree at the site’s southwestcorner. The Rakhaing don’t let go easily.The current Konbaung-style shrine datesfrom the 19th century, as earlier ones weredestroyed by fire. The Mahamuni buddha isgone, but ‘Mahamuni’s brother’ is now oneof three fine golden images resting inside.Down the steps, near the south walls ofthe shrine, is a small museum (free) with acouple of dozen relics and engraved stones.The hilltop golden stupas visible (barely)to the east, are the first indication that you’reclose to Salagiri Hill, the fabled site Buddhavisited in 554 BC. It’s as close as you’ll get, asthe area is closed to foreigners.The easiest way to get to the site fromMrauk U is by hired jeep (K35,000; threehours one way); you should be able to stopat Wethali along the way.CHIN STATEHilly, sparsely populated and severely lackinginfrastructure, much of Chin State(xY='"¨p–'ny') is off limits to travellers. Thepeople and culture exhibit a mixture of native,Bengali and Indian influences similarto that found among the Rakhaing, with amuch lower Bamar presence; for more onthe Chin see p 308 .All visits to Chin State require governmentpermission and the presence of a licensedguide – something that will take at least 20days, and more likely a month, to arrange.There are a couple of options to minglewith Chin people just outside Chin Statethat don’t require government permits: villagesnear Mrauk U in Rakhaing State anda flight from Mandalay to Kalaymyo (Kalay),a half Chin town in Sagaing Region justnortheast of Chin State.Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)0ituiriyetC=' (nt'metC=')As long as you’re with a licensed guide, oneof the few areas of Chin State on the touristradar is Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung),roughly 80 miles west of Bagan. The 10,016ft(3,053m) mountain, Myanmar’s secondhighest, stands amid a 279 sq mile nationalpark and is a prime spot for birdwatching.It’s best visited in November when the rhododendronbushes that cover the slopes arein full bloom.Several tour agencies have itineraries coveringMt Victoria, including Yangon-basedBike World Explores Myanmar (%09 5134190; www.bwemtravel.com) offering both trekkingand cycling tours to the mountain; andthe experienced Yangon-based guide MrSaw (%09 4929 2258; www.toursmyanmar.com;saww.myanmar@googlemail.com).Saw charges $550 per person from NyaungU (Bagan) for a five-day (four-night)trip including car, driver, guide, accommodation(minimum two people per trip).The loop from Nyaung U starts with aseven-hour ride to Mindat town – across287CHIN WESTERN STATE MYANMAR 8 8 MT VICTORIA (NAT MA TAUNG)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltdthe Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River on rough288 roads. The next day it’s seven more hours toKampelet at the foot of the mountain, whereyou trek up to the summit (3 miles one way).It’s possible to camp overnight on the mountainand it’s an eight-hour ride back to NyaungU from Kampelet.Longer itineraries, including visits to theregion to take part in the Chin National Daycelebrations (usually held around 20 February)and an overland journey from Mrauk U,can be also be arranged.WESTERN MYANMAR CHIN STATEKalaymyo (Kalay)kel"Dmúui¾It’s remote, and not particularly exciting,but travellers with hopes to mingle withChin folk can fly to Kalaymyo (often calledKalay) without government permission.The town – 9 miles long, rarely more thantwo blocks wide and about 62 miles fromthe Indian border – offers few sights beyonda central market and a pagoda. It’s more interestingto see its half Burmese, half Chinpopulation and its slender setting, ringed byfar-off, lush mountains.Foreigners who do make it here are typicallyChristian missionaries ministeringto the Chin (who are 95% Christian andlive in the western half of town). The Chinfolk sometimes refer to Kalaymyo as ‘Zomi’.There’s some local debate on who lived herefirst, Bamar or Chin. No women have tattooedfaces here.Across the street from the airport isTaung Za Lat Hotel (%073-21463; BogyokeRd; s/d from $15/20) the lone hotel licensed forforeigners. Be prepared for grubby roomswith balconies, fans, screened windows andsquashed ’squitoes left on the walls. Moreexpensive rooms are slightly bigger but notreally worth it.In theory, both Myanma Airways ($105)and Air Bagan ($152) offer at least a coupleof flights a week here from Yangon (2 hours),but the schedule depends on demand, so beprepared for last-minute changes and cancellations.The same applies to flights fromMandalay (from $45; one hour).© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdUnderstandMyanmar(Burma)MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290A new government, Aung San Suu Kyi free, continued ethnictensions – but does it amount to meaningful change?HISTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Kings, generals and prodemocracy fighters: how competingkingdoms became colonial Burma, then military-ruled Myanmar.PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Meet some of the 135 ethnic groups that make up Myanmar’smulticultural mix.POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS . . . . . . . . 315Understand why Myanmar’s poor record of government andhuman rights has made it an international pariah.ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322The mountains, plains, jungles and beaches of Myanmar arehome to a Noah’s ark of flora and fauna.EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328The diversity of Myanmar’s food and drink is well worth discovering– this chapter will help you dig in.RELIGION & BELIEF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Buddhism may be the dominant religion, but Myanmar is hometo many other faiths too.ARTS & ARCHITECTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Explore the beauty of Myanmar’s architecture, arts and crafts,as well as the ways locals like to relax.AUNG SAN SUU KYI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352Daughter of a national hero, mother, widow, international politicalicon: the life and times of the people’s champion.

290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAUK≈ 30 peopleMyanmar(Burma) Today» GDP percapita: $435» Cost of a mobilephone SIMcard: $1000» Internetusers: 0.1% ofthe population» PoliticalPrisoners: 1994(June 2011;source www.aappb.org)Roadmap to Democracy?In October 2010 Myanmar went to the polls for its first national election in20 years, part of the generals’ plan for a ‘discipline flourishing democracy’.Following the victory of the military-backed Union Solidarity & DevelopmentParty (USDP), National League for Democracy (NLD) leader AungSan Suu Kyi was released from her latest stint of house arrest – and instantlyjumped into the fray, and rounds of interviews with the international media,reminding people of the 2100 other political prisoners still in detention.To everyone’s surprise, a new national flag was unveiled at the end ofthe year, while in February 2011 a quasi-civilian parliament convened forits initial sessions, replacing the military regime’s State Peace and DevelopmentCouncil (SPDC). A new president, former general and old prime ministerThein Sein, was ‘chosen’ by the elected reps to take over from SeniorGeneral Than Shwe, Myanmar’s supreme ruler for the past two decades.When the new parliament was sworn in at the end of March and anew head of the military, Min Aung Hlaing, was announced, a tick appearedagainst the seventh, and final, step on the junta’s ‘roadmap todemocracy’. In response, neither the US nor the EU fully dropped theirsanctions against Myanmar, but both softened their stance – the formerappointing Derek Mitchell as a special envoy, the latter easing travelrestrictions on key members of the new government.A ‘Deeply Flawed’ ElectionHas much changed in Myanmar? Over 30 different political parties didmanage to jump through a considerable number of hoops to contest theelection, including the National Democratic Force (NDF), a breakawaygroup from the NLD that, unlike its parent party, decided to participatein the poll. However, few were surprised by the results, which saw theTravel Literature DocumentariesThe Trouser People JournalistAndrew Marshall retraces thesteps of Sir George Scott, whotraversed unmapped corners ofBritish Burma in the late 1800s.Golden Earth Norman Lewis’saccount of his trip throughBurma in the turbulent 1950s.Finding George Orwell inBurma Sarah Larkin's evocativeand perceptive traveloguerecounts Orwell’s days here asa colonial policeman, as wellas the modern-day plight ofMyanmar.Burma VJ About the monks’uprising in 2007.Burma Soldier The journey ofa Burmese soldier from juntasupporter to democracy activist.This Prison Where I LiveCovers the plight of politicalprisoner Zargana.

elief systems(% of population)if Myanmar (Burma)were 100 people291894BuddhistMuslim4 3Christian Animist & Other68 would be Bamar 3 would be Chinese9 would be Shan 2 would be Indian7 would be Kayin (Karen) 2 would be Mon4 would be Rakhaing 5 would be otherUSDP triumph, amid numerous reports of serious interference with thevoting process. The UN called the election ‘deeply flawed’ and many otherrespected commentators (among them US President Barack Obamaand British Ambassador to Burma, Andrew Heyn) expressed concernsthat it was neither free nor fair.However, most of the new political parties and civil capacity buildingorganisations (civic value educational bodies), such as Myanmar Egress(www.myanmaregress.org) fervently believe that participating in theelection was worthwhile – however flawed the result may have been. Intheir view, a ‘political space’ had opened up for them for the first timein two decades. These groups are now looking towards the next election,scheduled for 2015, as a chance to expand that space. One hopeful developmentwas the government’s initiation of talks with NLD leader AungSan Suu Kyi in August 2011.A New Government?Under the 2008 constitution Myanmar is divided into seven regions(where the Bamar are in the majority) and seven states (minority regions,namely Chin, Kachin, Kayah, Kayin, Mon, Rakhaing and ShanStates). In addition there are six ethnic enclaves (Danu, Kokang, Naga,Palaung, Pa-O and Wa) with a degree of self-governance.A quarter of the seats both at the national and state level are reservedfor unelected military candidates; this gives the military a casting voteon any constitutional change because these require a parliamentary majorityof more than 75%. One outcome of the election is that in four of theseven state legislatures (Chin, Kayin, Rakhaing and Shan) ethnic partieshold over 25% of the seats, theoretically allowing them to call special sessionsor initiate impeachment proceedings against local public officials.The graphicsabove are basedon data from theCIA World FactBook, which differsfrom the dataof the Myanmargovernment; seep 316 for more onMyanmarSTATISTICSTop Downloads Top FictionIrrawaddy (www.irrawaddy.org)Focuses on politics and culture.Mizzima (www.mizzima.com)A nonprofit news service run byMyanmar journalists in exile.Transnational Institute (www.tinyurl.com/4y2vphq) Politicsand social issues.Burmese Days George Orwelldepicts small-town Burma ofthe 1920s, damning colonialismalong the way.The Glass Palace AmitavGhosh’s novel is a fictionalised,but accurate, account ofBurma’s history.The Piano Tuner Daniel Mason’selegant adventure story isabout a London piano tuner whoheads off into Burma’s junglesin the 1880s to repair a famousinstrument.

292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s nationalparliamentis made up of the440-seat People’sAssembly (PyithuHluttaw) and the224-seat UpperHouse (AmythaHluttaw). Thereare also sevenstate legislatures.At the time of writing, much of the daily mechanics of government,including how the national and state legislatures will interact and therole of the military, remained unclear. Seasoned observers, such as MacquarieUniversity academic Sean Turnell, are sceptical of the notion thatThan Shwe has relinquished power, believing that behind the scenes hecontinues to be the government’s puppet master.A Land of RumoursWhoever is in charge, it’s pretty clear they’ve got quite a job on their handsto revive the country’s fortunes. Yangon may have a few flashy shoppingmalls and wi-fi-enabled cafe-bars where fashionably attired youths sipcappuccinos and jabber into mobile phones, but the vast majority ofpeople in Myanmar remain the poorest in Southeast Asia. According toSean Turnell from Macquarie University in Sydney, the economy ‘is unbalanced,unstable and devoid of the institutions and attributes necessaryto achieve transformational growth.’ Transparency International (www.transparency.org) places Myanmar behind only Somalia as the most corruptcountry in the world, and along many of the country’s borders thelongest running civil war in modern history continues to spark and flare.Reporters Without Borders (http://en.rsf.org) nails Myanmar as a ‘censor’sparadise’, but also notes that the local media did a professional andcreative job covering the 2010 election and Aung San Suu Kyi’s release. Still,most locals glean what they can about the machinations of power in theircountry from the tried and trusted channels of gossip and rumour. While inBagan on research in February 2011, we heard it whispered that billionaireTay Za (see p 26 ) had been involved in a helicopter accident hundreds ofmiles north in the Himalaya Mountains near Putao. A few days later the rumourwas confirmed on the internet. That’s how news travels in Myanmar.Dos & Don’ts Greetings» Do remove shoes on enteringa Buddhist site or home. Dressrespectfully: no shorts, shortskirts or exposed shoulders.» Don’t touch somebody on thehead (including a child).» Don’t pose with or sit onbuddha images.» Don’t point your feet at anyoneor anything – apologise if youaccidentally brush someone withyour foot.» Don’t speak politics with localsunless they raise the subject first.» Do ask before yourphotograph anyone.» Greet someone by sayingmingala-ba, meaning‘auspiciousness be upon you’.» Use a person’s full name –locals don’t have surnames» Shake hands or pass moneywith your right hand, with lefthand ‘holding up’ your right arm.

293HistoryThe roots of Myanmar’s present complex, tragic situation can be traced backthrough h its convoluted history. Spanning several millennia, Myanmar’s his-tory involves a bewildering cast of people and competing kingdoms.Long before the British took control of Burma in three waves in the19th century, the area was ruled over by several major ethnic groups,with the Bamar only coming into prominence in the 11th century. Britainmanaged the mountainous border regions separately from the fertileplains and delta of central and lower Burma, building on a cultural riftbetween the lowland Bamar and highland ethnic groups that lingers today.Civil war erupted between minority groups after independence in1948, and in pockets of the country the unrest continues today.General Ne Win wrested control from the elected government in 1962and began the world’s longest-running military dictatorship, pursuingxenophobic policies – such as nationalising most of the country's industriesand business, severely curtailing international trade, only allowing24-hour visas for tourists (later extended to a week) and controlling allbooks and magazines allowed into the country – that isolated Burmafrom the rest of the world. State socialism ruined the economy, necessitatingseveral major currency devaluations, the last of which sparkedmass, peaceful street protests in 1988.The prodemocracy marches saw Aung San Suu Kyi emerge as the leaderof the National League for Democracy (NLD). The military used violenceto stop the marches, then, to everyone’s surprise, called a nationalelection. It thought it couldn’t lose. But at the 1990 election the NLD won82% of the assembly seats. The military simply refused to transfer powerand threw many elected politicians into jail.In the years since, Myanmar’s trade with its neighbours (particularlyThailand and China) and its membership of Asean, have enabled thegovernment to withstand increased international scorn and Westernsanctions. The military’s aggressive reaction to the 2007 protests (theOutrage: Burma’sStruggle for Democracyby BertlLintner is oneof several worksby the long-timeBangkok-basedforeign correspondentandBurma expert,exploring themachinationsof Myanmar’smilitarygovernment.850 BCAccording to Burmesechronicles, Abhirajaof the Sakiyan clanfrom India foundsTaguang, 127 milesnorth of Mandalay; hisson travels south andfounds a kingdom atRakhaing (Arakan).3rd centuryBCThe Mon, whomigrated into theAyeyarwady Delta frompresent-day Thailand(and from China beforethat), establish theircapital, Thaton, andhave fi rst contact withBuddhism.1st centuryBCPossible founding ofBeikthano (namedafter the local word forVishnu), a Pyu towneast of current-dayMagwe; it’s believedto have fl ourished forabout 400 years.

294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRemembered asTayokpyay Min,or ‘the King whoRan Away fromthe Chinese’,Narathihapatewas also knownfor his gluttonousappetite,demanding 300varieties of dishesat his banquets.failed ‘Saffron Revolution’) and its inaction following Cyclone Nargis in2008, the worst natural disaster ever to befall the nation, have caused itto become even more despised and feared.Elections for a civilian government in 2010 and the release of AungSan Suu Kyi from house arrest have provided a glimmer of hope forsome. But for others it’s just business as usual in Myanmar, with themilitary as much in control as it has been for the past half century.Pre-Colonial BurmaThe Earliest InhabitantsArchaeologists believe humans have lived in the region as far back as75,000 BC. The limestone Padah-Lin Caves in western Shan State containpaintings that could be 13,000 years old, and there’s evidence thatlocal farmers had domesticated chickens and made bronze by 1500 BC.At least 2500 years ago, the area was a key land link between tradersfrom India and the Middle East and China. Ancient Greeks knew of thecountry too.In 2003 the BBC reported the finding of a 45-million-year-old fossil (possiblythe anklebone of a large ape-like animal) in central Myanmar thatmight just prove the area to be the birthplace of all l humans. The implica-tion of this research, written up in an academic paper by paleontologistLaurent Marivaux of the University of Montpellier II, is that our primateancestors may have had Asian rather than African origins. Not surprisingly,the military government was happy to embrace this interpretation.The First Burmese EmpireBagan was nearly 200 years old when its ‘golden period’ kicked off –signalled by an energetic, can-do King Anawrahta taking the throne in1044. His conquest of the Mon kingdom and the adoption of Buddhisminspired a creative energy in Bagan. It quickly became a city of glorioustemples and the capital of the First Burmese Empire. For more on thehistory of Bagan, see p 150 .Anawrahta’s successors (Kyanzittha, Alaungsithu and Htilominlo)lacked his vision, and the kingdom’s power slowly declined. In 1273 KingNarathihapate made the diplomatic mistake of offending the growingpower of Kublai Khan by executing his envoys. When the Mongols invadedin 1287, Narathihapate fled south to Pyay (Prome) where he committedsuicide.In the ensuing chaos, Shan tribes (closely related to the Siamese) fromthe hills to the east grabbed a piece of the low country, while the Monin the south broke free of Bamar control and re-established their ownkingdom.AD 754Nanzhao soldiersfrom Yunnan, China,conquer the hill tribesin the upper reaches ofthe Ayeyarwady Riverand challenge the Pyuwho ruled from thecity of Sri Ksetra.849Bagan is founded onthe site of a oncethrivingPyu city;its fi rst name mayhave been Pyugan,something recorded200 years later by theAnnamese of presentdayVietnam.1044Anawrahta slays hisbrother, takes thethrone in Bagan andstarts organising hiskingdom to kick off the‘golden period’ of theFirst Burmese Empire.1057Having subduedthe Shan Hills,Anawrahta’s armiessack the ancient Moncity of Thaton andbring back 30,000people to Bagan,including the Monking, Manuha.

The Second Burmese EmpireIt would be another 200 years before the Bamar were able to regroup tofound their second empire. During this time a settlement of Bamar refugeesin central Taungoo survived between Mon to the south and the Shanto the north and east, by playing the larger forces off against each other.In the 16th century, a series of Taungoo kings extended their powernorth, nearly to the Shan’s capital at Inwa, then south, taking the Monkingdom and shifting their own capital to Bago. In 1550 Bayinnaungcame to the throne, reunified all of Burma and defeated the neighbouringSiamese so convincingly that it was many years before the long-runningfriction between the two nations resurfaced.Following Bayinnaung’s death in 1581 the Bamar’s power again declined.The capital was shifted north to Inwa in 1636. Its isolation fromthe sea – effectively cutting off communication around the kingdom –ultimately contributed to Myanmar’s defeat by the British.The Third Burmese EmpireWith all the subtlety of a kick to the groin, King Alaungpaya launched thethird and final Burmese dynasty by contesting the Mon when the latterORIGINAL KINGDOMSThant Myint-U’sRiver of LostFootsteps is amust-read historicalreview thatrecounts kings’blunders andsuccesses, whileadding occasionalfamily anecdotesof Burma’s earlydays ofindependence.295HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAFour major precolonial ethnic groups peppered Burma’s flatlands with their kingdomsfor centuries, while smaller ethnic groups lived – mostly untouched – in the remote hillsbeyond. The early histories that are attached to these groups are a mix of fact and legend:see p 157 for an archaeologist’s perspective.Pyu Arriving from the Tibeto-Burman plateau and/or from India around the 1st centuryBC, the Pyu established the first major kingdom of sorts, with city-states in centralMyanmar including Beikthano, Hanlin and Sri Ksetra (Thayekhittaya). In the 10th century,Yunnanese invaders from China enslaved or scared off most Pyu.Rakhaing Also known as Arakanese, these people claim their kingdom was well under wayby the 6th century BC. Certainly it was in full force by the 15th century, when their Buddhistkingdom was based in Mrauk U and their navy controlled much of the Bay of Bengal.Bamar Also known as Burmans, these people arrived from somewhere in the easternHimalaya in the 8th or 9th century, supplanting the vanquished Pyu and establishingthe cultural heartland of Myanmar as it’s still known. Centuries of conflict with the Monerupted after their arrival. Although the Bamar came out on top, the result was really amerger of the two cultures.Mon This race, who may have originated from eastern India or mainland Southeast Asia,settled fertile lowlands on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River delta across Thailand to Cambodia.They developed the area as Suvannabhumi (Golden Land), with their Burmese kingdomcentred around present-day Thaton coming into existence around the 9th century.1084Kyanzittha continuesthe reforms started byhis father Anawrahta,including developingthe Burmese writtenlanguage; he’ssucceeded in 1113by his grandson,Alaungsithu who rulesuntil 1167.1273In a curious gestureof diplomacy againstfar-superior forcesto the north, theBurmese in Bagan slayTartar ambassadors,prompting a peevedKublai Khan to invade14 years later.1290sMarco Polo becomespossibly the fi rstWesterner to travel incentral Burma (thenknown to foreigners asMien), and publishesan account of histravels in 1298.1315After the collapseof Bagan, Sagaingbecomes the capitalof a Shan kingdom.The capital moves toInwa in 1364 and staysthere intermittentlyuntil 1841.

296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished in1925, GE Harvey’sHistory of Burmagives a chronologicalrundownof Myanmar’skingdoms fromthe Pyu era until1824, faithfullyrecounting manyfanciful legendsalong the way.took over Inwa in 1752. Some say Alaungpaya’s sense of invincibility deludedthe Burmese into thinking they could resist the British later on.After Alaungpaya’s short and bloody reign, his son Hsinbyushincharged into Thailand and levelled Ayuthaya, forcing the Siamese torelocate their capital to what would eventually become Bangkok. Hsinbyushin’ssuccessor, Bodawpaya (another son of Alaungpaya), looked forglory too, and brought the Rakhaing under Burmese control. This eventuallyled to tension with the British (who had economic interests inRakhaing territory) that the dynasty would not outlive.Colonial BurmaWars with the BritishWith eyes on fresh markets and supply sources in Southeast Asia, Britainwrested all of Burma in three decisive swipes. In the First, Second andThird Anglo–Burmese Wars they picked up Tanintharyi (Tenasserim)and Rakhaing in 1824, Yangon and southern Burma in 1853, and Mandalayand northern Burma in 1885.The first war started when Burmese troops, ordered by King Bagyidaw,crossed into British-controlled Assam (in India) from Rakhaing to pursuerefugees. General Maha Bandula managed some minor victories usingguerrilla tactics, but eventually was killed by cannon fire in 1824. Burmesetroops then surrendered. The Treaty of Yandabo, helped by the translatorof missionary Adoniram Judson (whose name is still on many Baptistchurches in Myanmar), gave Rakhaing and Tenasserim to the British.THREE KINGSLording it over a military parade ground in Myanmar’s capital of Nay Pyi Taw are giantstatues of the three kings considered the most important in Burmese history:» Anawrahta (1014–77) The creator of the First Burmese Empire ascended thethrone in Bagan in 1044. He unified the Ayeyarwady Valley and held sway over theShan hills and Rakhaing at the same time as introducing key religious and socialreforms that form the basis of modern Burmese culture.» Bayinnaung (1516–81) Aided by Portuguese mercenaries, this king of Taungoois famed for unifying Burma for its ‘second empire’ and conquering Ayuthaya, thecapital of Siam (Thailand), in 1569. Since 1996, his likeness has ominously lookedover Thailand from near the border at Tachileik.» Alaungpaya (1714–60) With no royal roots, this hometown hero of Mokesebo(Shwebo) founded the Konbaung dynasty and created the second largest empire inBurmese history. His reign lasted only eight years, ending when he died – some sayfrom poisoning – on retreat from Siam, after being turned back by rains.1433Rakhaing's ruler,N a r a m i t h l aestablishes a newcapital at Mrauk U,which, over thecourse of the next fewcenturies, grows into agrand city of templesand internationalcommerce.BERNARD NAPTHINE/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©1472The great Mon KingDhammazedi takesthe throne, unifi esthe Mon, moves thecapital from Inwato Bago (Pegu), andsets up diplomaticcontact with Europe.1527The Shan, who hadexercised increasingcontrol over the areafollowing the fall ofBagan, defeats thekingdom at Inwa andrules Upper Burma for28 years.» Buddha statues, Mrauk U

Two Burmese kings later, Bagan Min started his reign in the samemanner that many did: with mass executions to rid the capital of hispotential rivals. An 1852 incident involving the possible kidnapping oftwo British sea captains (some argue it never happened) gave the Britisha welcome excuse for igniting another conflict, and an opportunityfor more land. The British quickly seized all of southern Burma, includingYangon and Pathein (Bassein). They then marched north to Pyay(Prome), facing little opposition.The Final Two KingsThe unpopular Bagan Min was ousted in favour of the more capableand revered Mindon Min, who moved the capital to Mandalay. Palace intrigues,including the murder of Mindon's powerful half-brother by Mindon'sown sons, stayed the king's hand in naming his successor. WhenMindon suddenly died following an attack of dysentery in 1878, the new(rather reluctant) king, Thibaw Min, was propelled to power by his ruthlesswife and scheming mother-in-law. The following massive ‘massacreof kinsmen’ (79 of Thibaw Min’s rivals) made many British papers. Alas,previous kings hadn’t had to face the consequences of world media attention,and this act did little to generate public backlash in the UK againstBritain’s final, decisive war against the Burmese.In 1885 it took Britain just two weeks to conquer Upper Burma, exileThibaw and his court to India and establish control over all the country.The conflict is sometimes called ‘the war over wood’, as Britain’s victoryallowed it to secure rights to Burma’s plentiful teak forests. Direct colonialrule was implemented only where the Bamar were the majority (ie in thecentral plains). The hill states of the Chin, Kachin, Shan, Kayin and Kayahwere allowed to remain largely autonomous – a decision that would haveramifications in the run up to independence in 1948 and beyond.The Impact of British RuleBurma was henceforth administered as part of 'British India'. A flood ofIndian immigrants were allowed into the country, where they acted likesecond colonisers: building businesses and taking rare, low-level governmentjobs from the hostile indigenous population. In 1927 the majority ofYangon’s population was Indian. Chinese immigration was also encouraged,further subjugating and marginalising the Burmese people.Cheap British imports poured in, fuelled by rice profits. Many key citiesand towns were renamed by the British with Yangon becoming Rangoon,Pyay became Prome and Bagan was renamed Pagan.Much of Burma was considered a hardship posting by British colonialofficials, who found the locals difficult to govern. On the other hand, manyof the British officials were incompetent and insensitive, and refused toOne of thebiggest meteorshowers inmodern historyfilled Burma’s skyin 1885. Localssaw it as an omenof the end of theirkingdom.Despite a Britishheldban againstvisiting Buddhistsites (becauseof the traditionof visitors beingasked to removetheir shoes),aviator AmeliaEarhart visitedthem anyway(and took off hershoes).297HISTORY COLONIAL BURMA1540Lower Burma isreunifi ed afterTabinshwehti, theambitious and youngking of Taungoo,defeats the Monkingdom at Bago –helped by Burmansfl eeing the Shan inInwa.1551B a y i n n a u n g b e c o m e sking and, havingconquered the Shanin 1557, reunifi es allof Myanmar as theSecond BurmeseEmpire; his forces takethe Siam capital ofAyuthaya in 1569.1599Following his defeatof Bago, the Kingof Rakhaing grantsthe Portuguesemercenary Filipede Brito e Nicotegovernorship ofthe port of Syriam(Thanlyin), which hecontrols until 1613.1760Burmese KingAlaungpaya, havingconquered Inwa, Pyay(Prome), Dagon (whichhe renames ‘Yangon’)and Tenasserim(Tanintharyi), fails totake Ayuthaya in Siamand dies during theretreat.

298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTIONARY MONKSIn 1919, at Mandalay’s Eindawya Paya, monks evicted Europeans who refused to take offtheir shoes. The British, sensing that this ‘Shoe Question’ was the start of a nationalistmovement, sentenced the monk leader, U Kettaya, to life imprisonment. This would notbe the last involvement of the sangha (Buddhist brotherhood) in politics.U Ottama, a monk who had studied in India and returned to Burma in 1921, promotedreligious liberation as a way to bring the independence movement to the attention of theaverage local Buddhist. After numerous arrests, U Ottama died in prison in 1939. Anothermonk, U Wizaya, died in prison in 1929 after a 163-day hunger strike, which began as aprotest against a rule that forbade imprisoned monks from wearing robes.In the footsteps of these martyrs to the nationalist cause strode the brave monks who,risking arrest and worse, marched the streets in 2007. Monks currently account for 256of Burma’s 1994 political prisoners and include the 31-year-old U Gambira, one of theorganisers of the 2007 protests, who is serving a sentence of 68 years.The Burman(1882) andBurma: A Handbookof PracticalInformation(1906) by colonialadventurer SirJ George Scottremain in printtoday and stillprovide an insightinto the nation’sculture.causing grave offence to the majority Buddhist population. Inflamed byopposition to colonial rule, unemployment and the undercutting of thetraditional educational role of Buddhist monasteries, the country hadthe highest crime rate in the British Empire. And apart from constructingrailroads and schools, the British built prisons, including the infamousInsein prison, the Empire’s largest (and still in use by the currentgovernment).Rise of NationalismBurmese nationalism burgeoned in the early days of the 20th century,often led by Buddhist monks. University students in Yangon went onstrike on National Day in 1920, protesting elitist entrance requirementsat British-built universities. The students referred to each other as thakin(master), as they claimed to be the rightful masters of Burma. Onethakin – a young man called Aung San – was expelled from universityin 1936 for refusing to reveal the author of a politically charged article.Growing demands for self-government and opposition to colonialrule eventually forced the British to make a number of concessions.In 1937, Burma was separated administratively from India and a newlegislative council including elected Burmese ministers was formed.However, the country continued to be torn by a stuggle between opposingpolitical parties and sporadic outbursts of anti-Indian and anti-Chinese violence.1784Alaungpaya’s son,Bodawpaya defeatsRakhaing, haulingoff the reveredMahamuni Buddhaimage (supposedlycast during Buddha’slegendary visit to thearea in 554 BC) toInwa.1813Adoniram Judson, aBaptist missionaryfrom Massachusetts,arrives to convertsouls and translatethe Bible; thanks to hisinfl uence, Myanmarhas the third-largestnumber of Baptistsworldwide.1826The Treaty of Yandaboconcludes the FirstAnglo-Burmese Warthat had begun twoyears previously; theBritish annex Rakhaingand Tanintharyi(Tenasserim) anddemand an indemnityof £1 million.1852Britain uses severalminor offences tokick-start the SecondAnglo-Burmese Warfor control of LowerBurma; Mindon Minoverthrows his halfbrother and sues forpeace.

Aung San & WWIIMore famous in the West as Aung San Suu Kyi’s father, Bogyoke (General)Aung San is revered as a national hero by most Myanmar peopleand his likeness is seen throughout the country. Aung San Suu Kyi, whowas only two when he died, called him ‘a simple man with a simple aim:to fight for independence’.Aung San was an active student at Rangoon University; he edited thenewspaper and led the All Burma Students’ Union. At 26 years old, heand the group called the ‘Thirty Comrades’ looked abroad for support fortheir independence movement. Although initially planning to seek analliance with China, they ended up negotiating with Japan and receivingmilitary training there. The ‘Thirty Comrades’ became the first troopsof the Burmese National Army (BNA) and returned to Burma with theinvading Japanese troops in 1941.By mid-1942 the Japanese had driven retreating British–Indian forces,along with the Chinese Kuomintang (KMT), out of most of Burma.But the conduct of the Japanese troops was starting to alienate theBurmese. Aung San complained at Japan’s 15th Army headquarters inMaymyo (now Pyin Oo Lwin): ‘I went to Japan to save my people whowere struggling like bullocks under the British. But now we are treatedlike dogs.’Aung San and the BNA switched allegiance to the Allied side in March1945. Their assistance, along with brave behind-enemy-lines operationsby the 'Chindits', an Allied Special Force, helped the British prevail overthe Japanese in Burma two months later. Aung San and his colleaguesnow had a their chance to dictate post-war terms for their country.Post-Colonial BurmaTowards IndependenceIn January 1947, Aung San visited London as the colony’s deputy chairpersonof the Governor’s Executive Council. Meeting with the BritishPrime Minister Clement Attlee, a pact was agreed, under which Burmawould gain self-rule within a year.A month later, Aung San met with Shan, Chin and Kachin leaders inPanglong, in Shan State. They signed the famous Panglong Agreementin February 1947, guaranteeing ethnic minorities the freedom to choosetheir political destiny if dissatisfied with the situation after 10 years. Theagreement also broadly covered absent representatives of the Kayin,Kayah, Mon and Rakhaing.In the elections for the assembly, Aung San’s Anti-Fascist People’sFreedom League (AFPFL) won an overwhelming 172 seats out of 225.The Burmese Communist Party took seven, while the Bamar opposition,WWIISites inMyanmar» Start of BurmaRd, Lashio, NorthernMyanmar» Taukkyan WarCemetery, Northof Yangon» ThanbyuzayatWar Cemetry,Mon State» Meiktila, CentralMyanmarArmed ForcesDay (27 March)commemoratesthe Burmesesoldiers’ resistanceagainst theJapanese army inWWII.299HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMA1857Mindon Min movesUpper Burma’s capitalfrom Inwa to a newlybuilt city at the footof Mandalay Hill, thusfulfi lling a purported2400 year-oldprophecy by Buddha.JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©1862Bahadur ShahZafar, the lastemperor of India,is exiled with hisfamily to Yangon,which the Britishcall Rangoon. Hedies in 1858, and isburied in secrecy.» Kuthodaw Paya (p 210 ); built by Mindon Min in 1857

300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADAWHISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMA‘Born of the people and one with the people’: that’s how former Senior General ThanShwe describes Myanmar’s army, the Tatmadaw. Other commentators, including theacademic and former diplomat Andrew Selth, author of Burma’s Armed Forces: PowerWithout Glory, call it a ‘state within a state’.From a small and disunited force at the time of independence, the army has grown tonearly half a million soldiers. It takes care of its troops and their dependants by providingsubsidised housing and access to special schools and hospitals. The military alsoowns two giant corporations – the Union of Myanmar Economic Holdings (UMEH) andMyanmar Economic Corporation (MEC) – whose dealings extend into nearly every cornerof the economy.Small wonder that for many families, having a son (it’s rarely a daughter, althoughthere are some roles for women in the army) who is a solider results in much appreciationfor the financial security it brings. Many other people in Myanmar live in fear of thearmy, but there are others who continue to respect the institution for the role it originallyplayed in securing independence for the nation.Summing up such divided feelings is none other than Aung San Suu Kyi who, in aninterview for the Financial Times said, 'I was brought up to be fond of the military, tobelieve that everybody in military uniform was, in some way or other, my father’s son.This is not something that you can just get rid of. It stays with you.'As many as250,000 peopleof Indian andChinese descentleft Burma in the1960s. Anti-Chinese riots inYangon in 1967also resultedin hundreds ofChinese deaths.led by U Saw, took three. (U Saw was Burma’s prime minister between1939 and 1942, and was exiled to Uganda for the rest of WWII for secretlycommunicating with the Japanese following a failed attempt togain British agreement to Burmese home rule.) The remaining 69 seatswere split between ethnic minorities, including four seats for the Anglo-Burman community.On 19 July 1947, the 32-year-old Aung San and six aides were gunneddown in a plot ascribed to U Saw. Some speculate that the military wasinvolved, due to Aung San’s plans to demilitarise the government. ApparentlyU Saw thought he’d walk into the prime minister’s role with AungSan gone; instead he took the noose, when the British had him hangedfor the murders in 1948.U Nu & Early WoesWhile Myanmar mourned the death of a hero, Prime Minister Attleeand Aung San’s protégé, U Nu, signed an agreement for the transferof power in October 1947. On 4 January 1948, at an auspicious middleof-the-nighthour, Burma became independent and left the BritishCommonwealth.1866Mindon’s sonsconspire againstthe heir apparent –beheading him in thepalace – promptingMindon to pick Thibaw,who showed nointerest in the throne,as his successor.1885The Third Anglo–Burmese War resultsin the end of theBurmese monarchy,as Britain conquersMandalay, sendingThibaw and his familyinto exile in India.1886Burma becomesan administrativeprovince of BritishruledIndia, with itscapital at Rangoon;it takes several yearsfor the British tosuccessfully suppresslocal resistance.1920Students acrossBurma strike inprotest against thenew University Act,seen as helping toperpetuate colonialrule; the strike iscelebrated today byNational Day.

Almost immediately, the new government led by U Nu had to contendwith the complete disintegration of the country, involving rebels, communists,gangs and (US-supported) anticommunist Chinese KMT forces.The hill-tribe people, who had supported the British and fought againstthe Japanese throughout the war, were distrustful of the Bamar majorityand took up armed opposition. The communists withdrew from the governmentand attacked it. Muslims from the Rakhaing area also opposedthe new government. The Mon, long thought to be totally integrated withthe Burmese, revolted. Assorted factions, private armies, WWII resistancegroups and plain mutineers further confused the picture.In early 1949 almost the entire country was in the hands of a numberof rebel groups, and there was even fighting in Yangon’s suburbs. At onestage the government was on the point of surrendering to the communistforces, but gradually fought back. Through 1950 and 1951 it regainedcontrol of much of the country.With the collapse of Chiang Kai-Shek’s KMT forces to those of Mao Zedong,the tattered remnants of the KMT withdrew into northern Burmaand mounted raids from there into Yunnan, China. But being no matchfor the Chinese communists, the KMT decided to carve their own littlefiefdom out of Burmese territory.The First Military GovernmentBy the mid-1950s, the government had strengthened its hold on the country,but the economy slipped from bad to worse. A number of grandiosedevelopment projects succeeded only in making foreign ‘advisers’ ratherwealthy. In 1953 Myanmar bravely announced that aid or assistance fromthe USA was no longer welcome, as long as US-supplied Chinese KMTforces were at large within the country.U Nu managed to remain in power until 1958, when he voluntarily handedthe reins over to a caretaker military government under General Ne Win.Considering the pride most of the country had in the Burmese army, whichhad helped bring independence, this was seen as a welcome change.Freed from the ‘democratic’ responsibilities inherent in a civilian government,Ne Win was able to make some excellent progress during the15 months his military government operated. A degree of law and orderwas restored, rebel activity was reduced and Yangon was given a massiveand much-needed cleanup. According to Thant Myint-U, Ne Win’s firstperiod of government was ‘the most effective and efficient in modernBurmese history’.The Burmese Road to SocialismSadly, the same would not be true for the general’s second, much moreextended, stint at Burma’s helm. As promised, the military allowed freeFollowing NeWin’s militarycoup in 1962, thecountry startedclosing off theoutside world,limiting foreigners’visits to just24-hour visas,later extended toa week.U Nu, Burma’sfirst prime minister,was also adevout Buddhistwho banned theslaughter of cowsafter winning the1960 election. HisautobiographySaturday’s Sonwas published in1975.301HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMA1937A new constitutionfor Burma sets up alegislative council,giving locals a largerrole in the running ofthe country; it’s notenough to stem callsfor independence.1939Still under Britishwatch, the leader ofBurma’s government,U Saw, holds offi ceuntil his arrest by theBritish in January 1942for communicatingwith the Japanese.1941After training with theJapanese, Aung San– Aung San Suu Kyi’sfather – founds theBurmese Army, andmarches into Burmawith his benefactors tooust the British.1945Aung San turns hisarmy against theJapanese to supportthe British; later heforms the Anti-FascistPeople’s FreedomLeague (AFPFL) tofi ght for Burmeseindependence.

302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO HEARNHKAMPatricia Elliott’sThe WhiteUmbrella (www.whiteumbrella.com) is thefascinating truestory of Shanroyal Sao HearnHkam, wife ofBurma’s presidentand founderof the Shan StateArmy.elections to held in December 1960 and the charismatic U Nu regainedpower with a much-improved majority, partly through a policy of makingBuddhism the state religion. This, and politically destabilising movesby various ethnic minorities to leave the Union of Burma, led Ne Win toorder an army coup and abolish the parliament in March 1962.U Nu, along with his main ministers, was thrown into prison, wherehe remained until he was forced into exile in 1966. Meanwhile, Ne Winestablished a 17-member Revolutionary Council and announced that thecountry would ‘march towards socialism in our own Burmese way’, confiscatingmost private property and handing it over to military-run statecorporations.Nationalisation resulted in everyday commodities becoming availableonly on the black market, and vast numbers of people being thrown outof work. Ne Win also banned international aid organisations, foreign languagepublications and local, privately owned newspapers and politicalparties. The net result was that by 1967, a country that had been the largestexporter of rice in the world prior to WWII, was now unable to feed itself.R iots & Street ProtestsOpposition to Ne Win’s government eventually bubbled over into a strikeby oil workers and others in May 1974 and, later that same year, riotsover what was seen as the inappropriate burial of former UN secretarygeneral,U Thant in Yangon. Responding with gunfire and arrests, thegovernment regained control and doggedly continued to run the country– further impoverishing the people with successive demonetisations.In late 1981 Ne Win retired as president of the republic, retaining hisposition as chair of the Burmese Socialist Programme Party (BSPP), thecountry’s only legal political party under the 1974 constitution. But hissuccessor, San Yu, and the government remained very much under theinfluence of Ne Win’s political will.Even though the Burmese standard of living was on a continual downwardspiral, it wouldn’t be until 1988 that the people again took to thestreets en masse, insisting that Ne Win had to go. Even the surprise retirementby Ne Win as BSPP chairperson in July 1988, and his advocatingof a multiparty political process, was insufficient to halt the agitation ofthe people. Public protests reached a climax on the auspicious date of8 August 1988 (8-8-88), after which the government steadily moved tocrush all opposition, killing an estimated 3000 and imprisoning more.Tens of thousands, mainly students, fled the country.Slorc Holds an ElectionIn September 1988, a military coup (widely thought to have had the blessingof Ne Win) saw the formation of the State Law & Order Restoration1947Having gainedindependence fromBritain and ralliedethnic groups to a 10-year deal where theycould secede fromBurma by 1958, AungSan and six colleaguesare assassinated byrivals.1948On 4 January thecountry gainsindependence as theUnion of Burma withU Nu as the primeminister; immediatelyit is destabilised byvarious ethnic andpolitical confl icts.FRANK CARTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©1958A split in theAFPFL causesparliamentary chaos;U Nu barely survivesa no-confi dencevote and invitesGeneral Ne Win toform a ‘caretakergovernment’ whichlasts until 1960.» Independence Monument

Council (Slorc). Slorc’s leader, General Saw Maung, commander in chief ofthe military, promised to hold a multiparty election within three months.Although 235 parties contested the election (which was delayed untilMay 1990), the clear front runner from the start was the National Leaguefor Democracy (NLD). The NLD was led by several former generals, alongwith Aung San Suu Kyi (daughter of hero, Aung San), who had made sucha public impression at rallies during the 1988 protests. For more aboutAung San Suu Kyi’s role in the democracy movement, see p 352 .In the run up to the election, Slorc tried to appease the masses withconstruction programmes, adding a coat of paint to many buildings in Yangonand abandoning socialism in favour of a capitalist economy. In 1989, itchanged the name of the country to Myanmar, then placed Aung San SuuKyi under house arrest and detained many other prodemocracy leaders.Convinced it had effectively dealt with the opposition, the governmentwent ahead with the country’s first election in 30 years. The voter turnout– 72.59% – was the highest in Myanmar’s history. The result was aresounding victory for the NLD, which took 392 of the 485 contestedseats (or about 60% of the vote), with the military-backed National UnityParty gaining just 10 seats with just over 25% of the vote.Post-1990 MyanmarNLD Under AttackSlorc barred the elected members of parliament from assuming power,decreeing that a state-approved constitution had to be passed by nationalreferendum first. In October 1990 the military raided NLD offices and arrestedkey leaders. A handful of elected members managed to escape thecountry – and set up the National Coalition Government of the Union ofBurma (www.ncgub.net) with Sein Win, nephew of Aung San, as its leader.Some commentators wondered if the election was a ruse to get membersof the opposition out in the open, where they could be more easilycrushed. Either way, in 1995 Slorc deemed it safe enough to release AungSan Suu Kyi; at the same time many other high-level dissidents, includingthe NLD’s Tin U and Kyi Maung, were also released from prison.For several months Aung San Suu Kyi was allowed to address crowds ofsupporters from her residence. In May and September 1996, a congress ofNLD members was held in a bold political gambit to show that the partywas still an active force. The military junta responded by detaining hundredswho attended the congress; the street leading to Suu Kyi’s residencewas also blockaded, prohibiting her from making speeches at her residence.In 1998 Suu Kyi attempted to leave Yangon to meet with supporters,but was blocked by the military and forcibly returned to the city. A secondattempt to drive to Mandalay in September 2000 again saw the Lady (asThe 1988demonstrationswere sparked bya students’ fightat the RangoonInstitute of Technology(that’sright, RIOT) thatended with policeintervening andsome studentsbeing killed.RIOT303HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMAR1962Following the coupby Ne Win, a peacefulstudent protest atRangoon Universityis suppressed by themilitary, with over 100students killed and theStudent Union buildingdynamited.1964All oppositionpolitical parties arebanned, commerceand industry arenationalised andNe Win begins theprocess of isolatingMyanmar from therest of the world.1978General San Yusucceeds New Win asBurma’s president butNe Win remains theultimate ruler, evenafter his resignationfrom the BurmeseSocialist ProgrammeParty in 1988.1988Civilian unrest growsas living standardscontinue to fall.On 8 August, hugenonviolent marchesend with the militarykilling over 3000protestors; the militarypromise to holddemocratic elections.

304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHWEThan Shwe: UnmaskingBurma’sTyrant by BenedictRogers isan unauthorisedbiography of thesecretive seniorgeneral who,many believe, stillcalls the shots inMyanmar.she is affectionately known) detained at a military roadblock. After spendingsix days in her car by the roadside, Suu Kyi was once again placedunder house arrest. Save for barely a year between 6 May 2002 and 30 May2003, she would spend the next decade shut away from the public.Than Shwe Takes OverIn the 1990s, after years of isolation from the rest of the world, the juntaactively tried to launch Myanmar as a tourist destination. But there wasa disappointing turnout for the official ‘Visit Myanmar Year 1996’ (partlydue to the tourism boycott launched by the NLD and others). Increasedsanctions from the West led the government to seek other sources ofincome: namely from trade with China, India and Thailand.Khin Nyunt, head of military intelligence and a protégé of Ne Win(who died, disgraced and living in obscurity, in 2002), became PrimeMinister in 2003. Khin Nyunt took the lead on the junta’s seven-step‘roadmap towards discipline-flourishing democracy’. But in 2004 hardlinerSenior General Than Shwe ousted Khin Nyunt and many of hisfellow intelligence officers; at a secret trial Khin Nyunt was sentenced to44 years in jail and is believed to currently be under house arrest.Than Shwe initially promised to continue the transition to democracy,but instead his activity showed a focus on negotiating multimilliondollartrade deals with China, India and Thailand, and importing weaponsand military know-how from Russia and North Korea.In 2005, an entirely new capital city was created in the arid fields nearPyinmana, a move widely viewed as enormously expensive and wasteful,including by China, a nation otherwise disinclined to comment on theactivities of its neighbour and trade partner. The junta named the cityin-the-makingNay Pyi Taw (Royal Capital), leaving little doubt that ThanShwe’s strategies and inspirations were aligned less with the modernworld than with Burmese kings of centuries past.The ‘Saffron Revolution’In mid-2007, natural gas prices rose by 500% (and petrol by 200%), leadingto price hikes for everything from local bus tickets to rice. In lateAugust a group of ‘1988 generation’ protestors were arrested for staginga march against the inflation. On 5 September, when monks denouncedthe price hikes in a demonstration in Pakokku, the protests escalated. Themilitary responded with gunfire and allegedly beat one monk to death.In response, the All Burma Monks Alliance (ABMA) was formed, denouncingthe ruling government as an ‘evil military dictatorship’ andrefusing to give alms to military officials (a practice called pattam mikkujanakamma). By 17 September daily marches began, swelling in numbersacross major cities including Yangon, Mandalay, Meiktila and Sittwe.1990In May the NationalLeague for Democracy(NLD), led by Aung SanSuu Kyi, conclusivelywins the fi rstnationwide electionin three decades, butthe military refuses torelinquish power.1995Aung San Suu Kyireleased fromhouse arrest. Thegovernment usesforced labour to readysome sites for ‘VisitMyanmar Year’; NLDand other activistgroups launch atourism boycott.1997US and Canadaimpose investmentban on Myanmar.State Law & OrderRestoration Council(Slorc) changes nameto the State Peace &Development Council.Myanmar joins Asean.2000The EU intensifi es itseconomic sanctionsagainst Myanmar,citing continuedhuman rights abusesin the country. AungSan Suu Kyi againunder house arrestuntil May 2002.

A DIFFERENT KIND OF REVOLUTION305As David Steinberg points out in Burma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needs to Know, theSaffron Revolution was neither saffron nor a revolution. Burmese monks wear maroon(not saffron) coloured robes for a start. The revolutionary part of the events of 2007 wasthat, for the first time, they were broadcast via smuggled out videos on satellite TV orthe internet. ‘For the first time in Burmese history, violent suppression by the state wasnot simply a matter of rumour but was palpably visible’, writes Steinberg. For a nailbitingaccount of how such incendiary video evidence was captured, watch the Oscarnominateddocumentary Burma VJ (www.burmavjmovie.com).Unexpectedly, monk-led crowds were allowed to pray with Aung SanSuu Kyi from outside her house gates on 22 September. Two days later,anything from 50,000 to 150,000 protestors marched through the streetsof Yangon in what would become known as the ‘Saffron Revolution’. All thewhile the government watched, photographing participants.On 26 September the army began shooting protestors and imposed acurfew. A monk was beaten to death, monasteries were raided and 100monks were arrested. The following day, a soldier was caught on videofatally shooting Japanese photographer, Kenji Nagai at the southwestcorner of Sule Paya Rd and Anawrahta Rd in central Yangon (Nagai mayhave been mistaken for a local, as he was wearing a longyi). Two dayslater, with around 3000 people arrested and 31 people dead, the protestswere quashed, and an unsettled quiet hung over Myanmar’s cities.Cyclone NargisIn the aftermath of the 2007 demonstrations, Than Shwe made promisesto fend off outside criticism. First, he finalised the long-delayed new constitution,which had been under discussion since 1993 and which included aprovision that the generals would not be legally held to account for crimesagainst the population committed during their governing period. Second,he announced a national referendum for it on 10 May 2008. But on 2 Maya natural disaster took hold, as Cyclone Nargis – the second-deadliest cyclonein recorded history – tore across an unaware Ayeyarwady Delta.Cyclone Nargis’ 121mph winds, and the tidal surge that followed, sweptaway bamboo-hut villages, leaving over two million survivors withoutshelter, food or drinking water. Damages were estimated at $2.4 billion.Yangon avoided the worst, but the winds (at 80mph) still overturnedpower lines and trees, leaving the city without power for two weeks.The government was widely condemned for its tepid response tothe disaster. Outside aid groups were held up by a lack of visas and theLegend has itthat Buddha gaveeight of his hairsto a couple ofvisiting Burmesemerchants 3000years ago. Theyare enshrined inYangon’s ShwedagonPaya.BUDDHAHISTORY POST-1990 MYANMAR2002In March, Ne Win’sson-in-law andthree grandsons arearrested for plottingto overthrow the junta;Ne Win is placed underhouse arrest and dies5 December, aged 91.2003Aung San Suu Kyiand NLD membersare attacked by progovernmentmobs innorthern Myanmar; upto 100 are killed. ‘TheLady’ is again placedunder house arrest.2004Having brokered aceasefi re agreementwith Karen insurgents,Prime Minister KhinNyunt, the moderatevoice in the militarywho outlined a sevenpoint‘roadmap’for democracy, isarrested.2006General Than Shweand the governmentmove the capital fromYangon to Nay Pyi Taw,a new city in centralMyanmar.

306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARIn June 2011, the US Navy turned back a North Korean vessel presumed to be carryingmilitary cargo bound for Myanmar. According to a report in the Christian Science Monitor,experts had linked the vessel to previous shipments to Myanmar, with whom North Koreais suspected of cooperating in a program for enriching uranium for nuclear warheads.According to Aung Lynn Htut, a former senior intelligence officer in Myanmar’s Ministryof Defence and a defector to the US in 2005, the country had secretly re-engagedwith North Korea as far back as 1992 to gain missile and nuclear-weapon technology.These allegations appeared to be backed up by US diplomatic cables, leaked by Wikileaksin 2010, detailing the presence of North Korean technicians in Myanmar, helping theregime to build some kind of missile facility.The cables don’t confirm conclusively what Myanmar and North Korea are up to, butas the BBC reported ‘they do provide a fascinating insight into the jigsaw of informationon which Western intelligence is based’.NARGISEverything isBroken by EmmaLarkin is an eyeopeningaccountof the regime’sresponse to theworst naturaldisaster to befallMyanmar in modernhistory.Myanmar military’s refusal to allow foreign planes to deliver aid. Localsstepped into the breach, heroically organising their own relief teams.In the meantime, the government kept the referendum more or less onschedule, outraging many locals and outside observers.Several months afterward, a group organised by Asean and the UNto analyse the disaster documented 84,537 deaths and 53,836 missingpeople – 138,373 in all, 61% of whom were female. Other estimates areeven higher, suggesting 300,000 were lost. Children, unable to withstandthe inflow of water, were most vulnerable to drowning.A New ConstitutionEven before the cyclone, activist groups and NLD members had urgedthe public to vote ‘no’ at the referendum to change the constitution. Theyfeared that it would enshrine the power of the generals. Others worriedthat not voting would only deepen the military hold on the governmentand leave no wiggle room for other political parties to contribute.Voting took place in two rounds during May 2008, while a reported2.5 million people still required food, shelter and medical assistance.The military announced that 98.12% of those eligible had voted andthat 92.48% had approved the new constitution – even though very fewwould have even seen the document in advance of the referendum.With Than Shwe’s ‘roadmap towards discipline-flourishing democracy’in place, and yet another reason found to keep his nemesis, Aung San SuuKyi, under house arrest (beyond her scheduled release in 2009), Myanmar’sfirst general election in 20 years went ahead in November 2010.2007Following fuel pricehikes, monk-ledprotests hit Myanmar’sstreets; after 50,000march in Yangonin September thegovernment brutallycracks down on this‘Saffron Revolution’,killing at least 31.2008Cyclone Nargis tearsacross the delta,killing an estimated138,000 and leavingmany more withouthomes. Two days later(sticking to schedule),a referendum onconstitutional reformtakes place.2010NLD boycott Octoberelections but manyother parties decideto take part; feware surprised whenthe military-backedUSDP wins. Aung SanSuu Kyi released inNovember.2011Myanmar achievesseventh and fi nalstep on ‘roadmap todemocracy’ whenformer general TheinSein is sworn intooffi ce as President,heading up a quasiciviliangovernment.

307People ofMyanmar (Burma)Ethnically speaking, multicultural Myanmar is more salad bowl thanmelting pot. The government recognises 135 distinct ethnic groups thatmake up eight official ‘major national ethnic races’: Bamar, Shan, Mon,Kayin (Karen), Kayah, Chin, Kachin and Rakhaing. The DPS touristmaps of the country depict cute cartoon characters of each of these racesdressed in their traditional attire, and the incredible thing is that as youtravel through Myanmar, you’re quite likely to see people wearing similar,if not identical, attire.Variations in dress are just a hint of the differences between Myanmar’sdiverse ethnic populations. This chapter provides background onthe major ethnic groups that visitors are most likely to encounter or readabout.Main Ethnic GroupsHistorically, Myanmar’s diverse ethnic make-up has been delineatedby its topography. The broad central plain, with the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy)River and Myanmar’s most fertile soil, has been populated byThe 1983 censusrecords 69% ofthe populationas Bamar, 8.5%Shan, 6.2% Kayin,4.5% Rakhaing,2.4% Mon,2.2% Chin, 1.4%Kachin, 1% Waand 0.4% Kayah.MYANMAR’S CYCLE OF LIFEIn From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey, Pascal Khoo Thwe writes that,growing up in the Shan hills, traditional family life meant that the ‘earth is round atschool and flat at home’, meaning some aspects of modern life are left, along with yourshoes, outside the door.Families in Myanmar tend to be large, and the birth of a child is a big occasion. Whileboys are coddled more, girls are equally welcomed, as they’re expected to look afterparents later in life. You might find three or four generations of one family living in a twoorthree-room house. Some thatched huts in the countryside have generators, poweringelectric bulbs and pumping life into the TV a couple of hours a night; many don’t. Runningwater outside the cities and bigger towns is rare.About three-quarters of the population farm, so much of local life revolves aroundvillages and the countryside. Here, national politics or dreams of wealth can pale in comparisonto the season, the crop or the level of the river (used for bathing, washing anddrinking water). Everywhere, people are known for helping each other when in need, andcall each other ‘brother’ and ‘sister’ affectionately.In Finding George Orwell in Burma, Emma Larkin recounts how a Mandalay cemeteryworker saved dirt from a moved gravesite so that just in case the family ever returnedthey could have ‘some soil from around the grave’. Death, of course, is a big deal, thoughmourned for less time than in much of the West. To miss a funeral is an unimaginablefaux pas. If a heated argument goes too far, the ultimate capper is to yell: ‘Oh yeah?Don’t come to my funeral when I die!’

308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN ETHNIC GROUPSKhin Myo Chit’sEnglish-languageColourful Myanmarhighlightsmany customsand traditionsof Myanmar lifeand is availablein many Yangonbookshops.INDIAHakhaSittweBay ofBengalwhichever group was strongest – usually the Bamar (Burmese) in thepast few hundred years. Most ethnic groups continue to live in somesort of troubled isolation in the mountains lining much of Myanmar’sinternational borders, notably the Shan, Kayah and Kayin in the east; theKachin to the north; and the Chin and Rakhaing to the west.As in many other ethnically (and religiously) diverse countries, feelingsof pride and prejudice cause friction between Myanmar’s ethnic groups.Ask a Bamar (or a Shan or a Kayin) their opinion about their countryfolkof different ethnic or religious backgrounds and you’ll get an idea of whatkinds of challenges governments in Myanmar down the ages have facedin their efforts to keep the peace and preserve the borders.Bamar‘The one single factor which has had the most influence on Burmeseculture and civilisation is Theravada Buddhism.’Aung San Suu Kyi, Freedom from FearAlso known as Burman or Burmese, the Bamar make up the majority(69% according to 1983 census data) of the population. Thought to haveoriginally migrated from the Himalaya, the Bamar ruled much of what isnow Myanmar from Bagan (Pagan) by the 11th century. When the Britishconquered Myanmar in the 19th century, it was the Bamar who hadto relinquish the most. Many ancient court customs and arts were lostwhen the Bamar monarchy was abolished.Despite an enduring attachment to older animist beliefs in nat (spirits)the Bamar, from trishaw drivers to senior generals, are devout Buddhists.Monks are highly respected and themedia reports daily on the merit-makingof top officials at the country’s principalBuddhist places of worship – continuing atradition of patronage started by BurmeseMyitkyinaCHINA monarchs.Coming of age (shinbyu) is a major eventin Bamar/Buddhist culture with paradesaround villages and towns for boys aboutLashioMandalayNay Pyi TawTaunggyiLoikawTHAILANDto enter monasteries as novice monks, andboth girls and boys having their ears pierced.For more on Buddhist traditions see p 338 .The military and current governmentstopped short of making Buddhism thestate religion (as Prime Minister U Nu didin 1960). However, nation-building effortshave included establishing the Bamar language(Burmese) as the language of instructionin schools throughout Myanmar, somost non-Bamar speak Burmese as a secondlanguage.YangonBago Hpa-anMawlamyineChinThe Chin inhabit the mountainous regionKayin(mostly corresponding with Chin State) that(Karen)Dawei borders India and Bangladesh to the west.MonChin State is restricted to travellers, but canKayahNagabe visited with government permission.Of Tibeto-Burman ancestry, the Chinpeople call themselves Zo-mi or Lai-mi(both terms mean ‘mountain people’), andshare a culture, food and language with theSagaingPatheinChinShanBamar(Burman)RakhaingKachin

Zo of the adjacent state of Mizoram in India. Outsiders name the differentsubgroups around the state according to the district in which theylive, for instance Tidam Chin, Falam Chin and Haka Chin.In the past, the Chin, as with most highland dwellers, led labourintensivelives, and their relatively simple traditional dress reflected this.Men wore loincloths in the warmer months and draped blankets overthemselves when the weather turned cool. The women wore poncho-likegarments woven with intricate geometric patterns. These garments andChin blankets are highly sought after by textile collectors today.Traditionally the Chin practise swidden (slash-and-burn) agriculture.They are also skilled hunters, and animal sacrifice plays a role in importantanimistic ceremonies: the state has the largest proportion of animistsof any state in Myanmar. Even so, some 80% to 90% of Chin arebelieved to be Christian, mainly following the efforts of American missionariesduring the British colonial period. However, with the presentdayactivities of government-sponsored Buddhist missions in the region,the traditional Zo or Chin groups are fading fast. Many Chin have alsofled west to Bangladesh and India.KachinLike the Chin, the Kachin are part of the Tibeto-Burman racial group.Based mainly in Kachin State, they are divided into six ethnic sub-groups(Jingpaw, Lawngwaw, Lashi, Zaiwa, Rawang, Lisu) among which theJingpaw are the most numerous. Also traditionally animist, the Kachinwere heavily targeted by Christian missionaries during colonial times(about 36% of the population are Christian, mostly Baptist and Catholic).As much of Kachin State lies above the tropic of Cancer, the climate ismore extreme – stifling hot in the summer months and downright coldin the winter – and the Kachin seem to have abandoned their traditionaldress for Western clothes that can be easily changed to suit the seasons.UNHAPPILY TOGETHERThe Chin NationalFront (www.chinland.org) wouldlike to create asovereign ‘Chinland’out of partsof Myanmar, Indiaand Bangladesh.For more aboutthe Kachin seethe websitesof the KachinNational Organisation(www.kachinland.org)and the KachinPost (www.kachinpost.com).During colonial rule the British managed to keep animosity between ethnic groups undercontrol by utilising the carrot of semi-autonomy or the stick of arrest and imprisonment.Over a century later, little has changed.Insurgencies between the Tatmadaw (Myanmar Army) and minority ethnic groupsthat smouldered for five decades after independence have been largely quelled. Groupsthat signed ceasefire agreements with the government (the Kachin, Kayah etc) havebeen granted limited economic autonomy. In advance of the 2010 election five ethnicceasefire groups had agreed to integrate their troops into a Border Guard Force underTatmadaw control; eight had refused.Those who continue to fight (including some Shan and the Kayin) are dealt with severely.The government has long operated its ‘four cuts’ system of denying insurgentsfood, financing, recruiting and intelligence. This scorched-earth policy has, according tothe UK Burma Campaign, resulted in the displacement of up to half a million people withas many as 300,000 fleeing across borders into refugee camps mainly in Thailand, Indiaand Bangladesh. In 2003, the US State Department investigated and found crediblereports of systematic military rapes of Shan and other ethnic groups.Some observers of politics in Myanmar predict that, given a choice, many of Myanmar’sethnic groups would opt for independence and break away from Bamar-controlledMyanmar. As Thant Myint-U writes in The River of Lost Footsteps, ‘the prospectsfor peace are remote, the possibilities of renewed violence perhaps greater.’Against this background it is significant that following her release in 2010, Aung SanSuu Kyi expressed her desire for a second Panglong Conference: it was at the first PanglongConference in 1947 that her father forged the fragile agreement between Myanmar’sethnic groups that lead to Burma’s independence.309PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN ETHNIC GROUPS

310PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN ETHNIC GROUPSTHE WOMEN WITH TATTOOED FACESThe most extraordinary (but no longer practised) Chin fashion was the custom of tattooingwomen’s faces. Chin facial tattoos vary according to tribe, but often cover thewhole face – starting at just above the bridge of the nose and radiating out in a patternof dark lines that resemble a spider’s web. Even the eyelids were tattooed. A painfulprocess, the tattooing was traditionally done to girls once they reached puberty.Legend has it that this practice was initiated to keep young Chin maidens from beingcoveted by Rakhaing princes whose kingdom bordered the southern Chin Hills. But it’sjust as likely that the tattoos were seen as a mark of beauty and womanhood. One proudold Chin woman we met told us that she was just seven when she started pestering herparents to have her own facial inking.Efforts by Christian missionaries and a government ban on facial tattoos in the 1960shas resulted in the practice dying out. But in some Chin villages (particularly in the moretraditional southern areas) live a handful of tattooed grannies; see p 286 for details onhow to visit these places.Author AlanRabinowitz showsmuch of the locallife in the Kachinhills in his fascinatingLife in theValley of Death.Little Daughter:A Memoir ofSurvival in Burmaand the West isthe autobiographyof Zoya Phan(written withDamien Lewis), aKayin woman whois the internationalcoordinatorof the UK BurmaCampaign andwho spent manyyears as a childliving in refugeecamps.About the only vestige of Kachin dress that foreign visitors are likely toencounter are men’s longyi (sarong-style lower garment) of indigo, greenand deep-purple plaid. During festive occasions, Kachin women sport finelywoven wool skirts decorated with zigzag or diamond patterns, and darkblouses festooned with hammered silver medallions and tassels.Following independence from Britain, Kachin relations with the Burmese-rungovernment were increasingly precarious. After the militarycoup in 1962, the Kachin Independence Army (KIA) was formed underthe Kachin Independence Organisation (KIO). These two organisationseffectively ran the state on an economy based on smuggling and narcoticsuntil a ceasefire agreement was struck in 1994.Since the 2010 election when some pro-KIO politicians were barredfrom standing, the situation has again turned volatile. In July 2011 fightingwith the Tatmadaw broke out in the state again, forcing, according tohuman rights groups, some 10,000 people to flee.KayahAlso known as the Karenni or Red Karen, the Kayah are settled in themountainous isolation of Kayah State – an area closed to travellers.As with many of Myanmar’s ethnic groups that traditionally practisedanimism, the Kayah were targeted for conversion to Christianity by Baptistand Catholic missionaries during the colonial period. The name ‘RedKaren’ refers to the favoured colour of the Kayah traditional dress and thefact that their apparel resembles that of some Kayin (Karen) tribes – aresemblance that caused the Kayah to be classified by colonisers and missionariesas ‘Karen’.Today the Kayah make up a very small percentage of the populationof Myanmar – perhaps less than 1% – and the vast majority lead agrarianlives. A significant number of Kayah also live in Thailand’s Mae HongSon Province.Kayin (Karen)No one knows for sure how many Kayin (also known as Karen) thereare in Myanmar. This ethnic group numbers anything between four andseven million and is linguistically very diverse, with a dozen related butnot mutually intelligible dialects. Originally animists, it’s now reckonedthat the majority are Buddhists, with around 20% Christian and a smallpercentage Muslim.

The typical dress of both the Kayin men and women is a longyi withhorizontal stripes (a pattern that is reserved exclusively for women inother ethnic groups). A subgroup of the Kayin live on both sides of theThai-Myanmar border; it’s here that you’ll likely encounter the Padaungtribe, a sub-group of the Kayin, whose women are best known for thebrass neck rings they wear. See p 192 for more about Padaung women.The only major ethnic group to never sign peace agreements withthe Myanmar military, the Kayin are an independent-minded people;the Karen National Union (KNU) is the best known of the insurgencygroups. However, the sheer diversity of the many Kayin subgroups hasmade it impossible for them to achieve any real cohesion. Buddhist Kayinoften side with the Buddhist Bamar against their Christian Kayin kin;also in the 2010 election a variety of ethnic parties managed to secure43.5% of the state legislature.A 2011 report by the Netherlands based Transnational Institute (www.tni.org/briefing/burmas-longest-war-anatomy-karen-conflict) on Myanmar’slongest running insurgency concludes that the KNU ‘is facingserious political and military challenges. It has lost control of most ofits once extensive “liberated zones” and has lost touch with most non-Christian Karen communities. Already greatly weakened militarily, theKNU could be ejected from its last strongholds, should the Burma Armylaunch another major offensive.’Presently the only place in Kayin State that travellers can visit is theregional capital Hpa-an.MonThe Mon (also called the Tailing by Western historians) were one of theearliest inhabitants of Myanmar and their rule stretched into what isnow Thailand. As happened with the Cham in Vietnam and the Phuanin Laos, the Mon were gradually conquered by neighbouring kingdomsand their influence waned until they were practically unknown outsidepresent-day Myanmar.As in Thailand, which also has a Mon minority, the Mon have almostcompletely assimilated with the Bamar and in most ways seemindistinguishable from them. In the precolonial era, Mon Buddhist sitesVisit KarenniHomeland (www.karennihomeland.com) to find outmore about thepeople livingin one of thepoorest and leastaccessible partsof Myanmar.The IndependentMon NewsAgency (http://monnews.org)covers Mon andBurmese affairs.311PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN ETHNIC GROUPSTHE WAThe remote northeastern hills of Shan State – the homeland of the Wa – are off limitsto tourists. During British colonial times, these tribal people – living in fortified villages,speaking dozens of dialects and having a reputation for being permanently unwashedand frequently inebriated – were hated and feared. A status they have yet to throw off.The British distinguished two mains groups of Wa according to how receptive theywere to the coloniser’s attempts to control them. The ‘Wild Wa’ were headhunters, anddecorated their villages with the severed heads of vanquished enemies to appease thespirits that guarded their opium fields. (Apparently they only stopped the practice in the1970s!)The so-called ‘Tame Wa’ allowed the colonisers to pass through their territory unimpeded,yet the area inhabited by the Wa – east of the upper Thanlwin (Salween) River innorthern Shan State – was never completely pacified by the British.For decades the 30,000-strong United Wa State Army (UWSA) has controlled thisborderland area, gathering power and money through the production of opium andmethamphetamine; the US labelled the UWSA a narcotics trafficking organisation in2003. Nevertheless, the UWSA struck a ceasefire deal with the military regime in 1989and the territory under their control looks set to be designated a special autonomousregion for the Wa under Myanmar’s new constitution.

312PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN ETHNIC GROUPSRakhaingCulturalRelics» Temple ruins,Mrauk U» MahamuniBuddha image,Mandalay» Rakhaing StateCulture Museum,SittweTo find out moreabout the Shanand issues inShan State readthe Shan HeraldAgency for News(www.shanland.org).including Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya were appropriated by the Bamar(though the Golden Rock is still in Mon State), and Mon tastes in artand architecture were borrowed as well.Today the Mon only make up just over 2% of the population of Myanmar,but Mon art and culture have influenced that of the Bamar quite thoroughly,as a trip to the Mon Cultural Museum in Mawlamyine will attest.RakhaingThe Rakhaing (also spelled Rakhine and formerly called Arakanese) areprincipally adherents of Buddhism; in fact, they claim to be among thefirst followers of Buddha in Southeast Asia. Their last ancient capitalwas centred at Mrauk U in Rakhaing State, which borders Bangladesh.The Rakhaing language is akin to Bamar but, due to their geographicallocation, they have also absorbed a fair amount of culture from theIndian subcontinent. In the eyes of most Bamar, the Rakhaing are a Creolerace – a mixture of Bamar and Indian – a perception that Rakhaingstrongly resent. It is true though that the local culture exhibits a stronglyIndian flavour particularly when it comes to food and music. The Rakhaingare skilled weavers and are known in Myanmar for their eye-catchingand intricately patterned longyi.Rakhaing State also has a minority population of Muslim Rakhaing, aswell as the Rohingya (see p 277 ), another Muslim people not recognisedas citizens of Myanmar by the government.ShanThe biggest ethnic group in Myanmar after the Bamar, the Shan, most ofwhom are Buddhists, call themselves Tai (‘Shan’ is actually a Bamar wordderived from the word ‘Siam’). This name is significant, as the Shan arerelated ethnically, culturally and linguistically to Tai peoples in neighbouringThailand, Laos and China’s Yunnan Province. In fact, if you’ve spentsome time in northern Thailand or Laos and learned some of the respectivelanguages, you’ll find you can have a basic conversation with the Shan.Traditionally, the Shan wore baggy trousers and floppy, wide-brimmedsun hats, and the men were known for their faith in talismanic tattoos.Nowadays Shan town-dwellers commonly dress in the Bamar longyi, excepton festival occasions, when they proudly sport their ethnic costumes.In former times the Shan were ruled by local lords or chieftains calledsao pha (sky lords), a word that was corrupted by the Bamar to sawbwa.Many Shan groups have fought the Bamar for control of Myanmar, andTHE MOKENAlso known as sea gypsies, or Salon in Burmese, the Moken live a nomadic life driftingon the ocean winds around the Myeik Archipelago, Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) Division.Numbering around 2000 to 3000 individuals, scientists believe they have been floatingaround these islands since at least 2000 BC.Totally at home on the water, Moken families spend almost all their time on woodenboats, called kabang. As the boys come of age they build their own boats, and as thegirls come of age and marry, they move away from their parents’ boat.Breathing through air hoses held above the water surface, the Moken dive to depthsof up to 200ft in search of shellfish. For all their skill, this can be a lethal activity withdivers dying in accidents each year, mainly from the bends caused by rising too quicklyto the surface.Like almost every ethnic minority in Myanmar, the Moken have suffered greatly undermilitary rule; reports from the late 1990s talk of how almost all Moken were subjectedto forced relocations to onshore sites. For more information see www.projectmaje.org/gypsies.htm.

THE NAGA313The Naga are mainly settled in a mountainous region of eastern India known as Nagaland,but significant numbers live in the western Sagaing Region between the Indianborder and the Chindwin River.When the British arrived in the mid-19th century, the Naga were a fragmented butfearsome collection of tribes. Headhunting was a tradition among them and for manydecades they resisted British rule, though a lack of cooperation between the tribes hinderedtheir efforts to remain independent. After nearly 17,000 Naga fought in WWI in Europe,a feeling of unity grew, which led to an organised Naga independence movement.The Naga sport one of the world’s most exotic traditional costumes. Naga men atfestival time wear striking ceremonial headdresses made of feathers, tufts of hair andcowry shells, and carry wickedly sharp spears.The only way to visit the Naga in Myanmar is on a government-organised trip duringthe Naga new year in January. It’s easier, and more rewarding, to visit on the Indian sideof the border, where the majority of Naga live.a few groups continue a guerrilla-style conflict in the mountains nearThailand.Other PeoplesApart from the Wa (see p 311 ), Myanmar’s constitution has set aside ‘selfadministeredzones’ for the Naga, Danu, Pa-O, Palaung and Kokang.Figures from the 1983 census also show there were 233,470 Chinese,428,428 Indians, 567,985 Bangladeshis and 42,140 Pakistanis living inMyanmar. This data is sure to be grossly inaccurate today, especially withregard to the Chinese. In recent years there’s been a massive influx ofChinese people into northern Burma, evident in Mandalay and certainlyin border towns such as Mong La, where the yuan is the local currency.Women in MyanmarIn Letters From Burma, Aung San Suu Kyi writes that a baby girl is asequally celebrated as a baby boy, as they’re believed to be ‘more dutifuland loving than sons’. Girls are educated alongside boys and, by universityage, women outnumber men in university and college enrolment.Most white-collar professions grant women six weeks paid maternityleave before birth and one or two months afterwards.Myanmar women enjoy equal legal rights to those of men, can ownproperty, do not traditionally change any portion of their names uponmarriage and, in the event of divorce, are legally entitled to half of allproperty accumulated during the marriage. Inheritance rights are alsoequally shared.Rights on paper, however, don’t always translate into reality. In thecurrent parliament only 20 out of 659 members are women, and it’s rarethat you’ll find women in other positions of power in Myanmar including,crucially, in the military. As the author Nu Nu Yi said in an interviewwith The Irrawaddy on the occasion of International Women’s Day in2011, men in Myanmar ‘don’t want to give important decision-makingpositions to women.’When it comes to religion, women certainly take a back seat. Manypeople in Myanmar – women as well as men – believe the birth of agirl indicates less religious merit than the birth of a boy, and that onlymales can attain nibbana a (for a woman to do so, she first has to comeback as a man!) A few Buddhist shrines, including Mandalay’s MahamuniPaya, have small areas around the main holy image that are offlimits to women.In Andrew Marshall’sThe TrouserPeople theintrepid authorgoes in search ofthe Wa’s creationmyth lake ofNawng Hkeo.White Lotus Press(www.whitelotuspress.com)publishes booksin English on thevarious people ofMyanmar.PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN IN MYANMAR

314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN IN MYANMARJust as boys between the ages of five and 20 usually undergo a prepubertyinitiation as temporary novice monks, girls around the sameage participate in an initiatory ear-piercing ceremony (often called ‘earboring’in Burmese English). Some also become temporary nuns at thisage, but nuns are not as venerated in Myanmar as monks.Saw Myat Yin, the insightful author of Culture Shock! Burma, expressesa viewpoint common among Myanmar women, who see their role asequal but ‘supportive and complementary…rather than in competition’,and that ‘if they accept a role a step behind their menfolk, they do sofreely and willingly.’

315Politics,Economics &SanctionsRegardless of the many questions raised about the fairness of the process,the 2010 elections have changed the political landscape in Myanmar.After decades of military dictatorship, there’s now a quasi-civiliangovernment and many new political parties, the most significant ofwhich represent ethnic minorities. Declared illegal by the ruling powers,the National League for Democracy (NLD) continues to function,in the eyes of both locals and the international community, as the mainopposition force and champion of democracy. It’s hard to know whetherthe elections are a token attempt by the government to appease criticsor a substantive step along the path to an open and democratic society.The political situation post-election is certainly more complex, andthe country’s economy is yet another can of worms. Having first disastrouslydabbled in socialist economics – and very nearly lost control ofthe country in 1988 because of it – the military was saved at the eleventhhour by trade deals for raw materials cut with neighbouring countries.Enormous revenue has been gained from the export of natural gas, andgovernment figures now posit double-digit economic growth for Myanmar,which doesn’t exactly tally with the country’s status as one of thepoorest in the world.In the meantime, the debate and policy differences continue in theoutside world over economic sanctions: their efficacy in persuadingthe government to become more democratic and stop violating humanrights, and whether they generally help or harm ordinary people inMyanmar.PoliticsThe Government/MilitaryOver the last 50 years, Myanmar’s rulers (aka the military) have adopteda variety of guises. They started out as the Burma Socialist ProgrammeParty (BSPP) in 1962, which morphed into the State Law and OrderRestoration Council (Slorc) in 1988, which was then renamed the StatePeace and Development Council (SPDC) in 1997. In the run up to the2010 election many in the upper echelons of the military resigned theirposts to become candidates for the military-backed Union Solidarity andDevelopment Party (USDP), which, to nobody’s surprise, was the victorat the polls.The names and some faces may have changed, but few people insideor outside Myanmar believe that the military have relinquished control.The Burma Campaign UK points out that ‘More than 80% of MPs comeDavid Steinberg’sBurma/Myanmar:What EveryoneNeeds to Knowsheds light onmany aspectsof the country’scomplex situationvia a seriesof concise andunderstandableQ&As on historyand culture.Guy Delisle’sBurma Chroniclesis a graphic accountof the yearthat the Canadiancartoonist spentin Myanmarwith his wife, anadministrator forMedecins SansFrontières (MSF).It’s both amusingand horrifying,covering topicsranging fromelectricity outagesto the heroinshooting galleriesin Chinese-ownedjade-mine towns.

316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS POLITICSTHE FICTION OF MYANMAR STATISTICS‘Facts are negotiated more than they are observed in Myanmar’, writes David Steinbergin Burma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needs to Know. ‘Statistics are often impreciseor manipulated, caused by internal political considerations or insufficient data, andbiased externally by a lack of access to materials.’ Under such circumstances, economicpolicy becomes pretty much guesswork.Even a basic figure such as Myanmar’s population is elusive. The Chinese news agencyXinhua quotes the government’s 2009 official figure of 59.12 million, while the AsianDevelopment Bank has it at 58.84 million and the CIA World Factbook at 54 million.Sean Turnell, an expert on Myanmar’s economy at Sydney’s Macquarie University,isn’t surprised by this 10% spread. ‘The last full census was back in 1913’, he says, pointingout that all subsequent attempts at a head count, including the oft-quoted censusof 1983, have been compromised by lack of data from parts of the country experiencingrebellions and unrest.Where we give population figures in this guide, they should only be taken as estimatesthat try to gauge the relative size of different towns and cities. Statistics provided by theMyanmar government should be regarded at best as an indicator and at worst as purefiction.Ethnic Politicsin Burma: TheTime for Solutions,a reportby the TransnationalInstitute(http://tinyurl.com /3o4pcqs)makes for soberingreading on aland in politicaltransition andethnic crisis.Bribery is partof all businessin Myanmar. Theowners of oneprivate guesthouseowner toldus they have tobribe their taxofficial. ‘We paythe tax man 25%of the taxes wewould have paid.He’s a very richman.’from the military or pro-military parties. In the new and all-powerfulNational Defence and Security Council, only one of its eleven members isgenuinely civilian, and that member comes from the pro-military UnionSolidarity and Development Party.’ A post-election report from the InternationalCrisis Group (www.tinyurl.com/6e4omqk) is more cautiouslyhopeful, noting that while ‘changes are unlikely to translate into dramaticreforms in the short term…they provide a new governance context,improving the prospects for incremental reform.’Many people continue to speculate about the role of Than Shwe, whoretired as the head of the military in March 2011. It’s commonly thoughthe continues to pull strings from behind the scenes in much the sameway that Ne Win once did. Than Shwe, however, will be well aware ofNe Win’s fate: the one-time strongman of Myanmar died in 2002, unceremoniouslyburied, with some of his family jailed for their alleged rolesin planning a coup a few months earlier. The constitution contains provisionsto stop attempts to prosecute Than Shwe and other top militarybrass for crimes committed under their watch – but the rule of law hascounted for little in Myanmar over the last half century.National League for DemocracyFounded on 27 September 1988, the National League for Democracy(NLD; www.nldburma.org) is the best known of Myanmar’s pro-democracyorganisations, thanks to its iconic leader Aung San Suu Kyi. It wonthe 1990 election in a landslide victory that the ruling junta ignored;many of its members were subsequently thrown into prison; others wentinto self-imposed exile (see p 303 ).Unhappy with the revised constitution pushed through by the governmentin 2008, the NLD called for a boycott of the October 2010 elections,in turn causing the military junta to declare the party illegal. This decisioncaused a division within the NLD that resulted in senior membersof the organisation, Dr Than Nyein and Khin Maung Swe, leaving toform the National Democratic Force (NDF), a party that did contest the2010 poll.Since the election the NDF has split into two factions, with some electedMPs committed to staying in the new party and others stating that atany upcoming election they would rejoin the NLD.

Other Political Parties & Opposition GroupsThe NDF ended up with 16 elected members taking seats in the nationaland state legislatures, compared to 883 seats for the military-backedUSDP. Among the 16 ethnic parties who also won seats were the ShanNationalities Democratic Party (SNDP; 57 seats), Rakhaing NationalitiesDevelopment Party (RNDP; 35 seats), All Mon Region DemocracyParty (AMRDP; 16 seats), Chin Progress Party (CPP; 12 seats) and the PaoNational Party (CPP; 10 seats). There are also parties representing theKayan, Kayin, Taaung (Palaung) and Wa.In addition to the parties listed above, there are a further 18 ethnicparties who either didn’t win seats or chose not to contest the election,plus about 20 other unregistered opposition groups, some of whom –such as the Kachin Independence Army – are fighting the government.All of this shows how complicated the ethnic political struggle in Myanmarhas become. Tackling this situation to achieve national reconciliation(see p 309 ) is considered by many, including Aung San Suu Kyi, oneof the most pressing political problems that Myanmar faces, since it’s apre-requisite for improving the everyday lives of the country’s citizens.A ray of hope is that representatives of many of the ethnic partieshave welcomed the chance – the first they’ve had in over 20 years – toparticipate in national and local government. In the ethnic states someof the ethnic parties captured significant percentages of the vote (p 291 ).Political Prisoners & Human RightsAung San Suu Kyi may have been released in November 2010, but as sheand many others keep pointing out, over 2000 other political prisonersremain under detention in Myanmar. According to the AssistanceAssociation for Political Prisoners (www.aappb.org), which keeps a runningtally of the detainees, the ‘arbitrary arrest and detention of politicalactivists and ordinary people for their perceived opposition to theregime continues unabated’. Human Rights Watch (www.hrw.org) hasdocumented how these prisoners are routinely mistreated, tortured and‘deprived of health resources, food and contact [with family and friends]’.Bad as this is, it pales in comparison with the litany of human-rightsabuses that are taking place in the government’s war with various armedethnic groups in the border regions. In the Shan State, according to theUK Burma Campaign and others, there is ‘widespread use of rape as aweapon of war against ethnic minorities, the forced displacement of overNowhere to BeHome, edited byMaggie Lemereand Zoë West,presents 22oral histories ofMyanmar citizensgathered fromthose living inthe country andthose in exile. Thestories are oftenheartbreaking,and the bookincludes veryuseful appendiceson current affairs,history andpolitics.317POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS POLITICSACTIVIST WEBSITESMany groups have websites that outline Myanmar’s prodemocracy movement and providedetails about ongoing human-rights abuses.Amnesty International (www.amnesty.org) Provides regular updates on the status of1994 political prisoners being held behind bars.Burma Campaign UK (www.burmacampaign.org.uk) One of the more outspoken campaigngroups, which is in favour of targeted sanctions.Burma Global Action Network (BGAN; www.burma-network.com) In the wake of the2007 monk-led anti-government protests, BGAN was founded through the creation ofthe Facebook group ‘Support the Monks’ Protest in Burma’.Burma Voices (www.burmavoices.com) A database of stories and photos of people whohave first-hand knowledge of the situation in Myanmar.Free Burma Coalition (www.freeburmacoalition.org) Run by Myanmar-exile figure Zarni.Includes links to Myanmar-related news.Network Myanmar (www.networkmyanmar.org) Committed to people-to-people contactand dialogue on issues surrounding Myanmar.

318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS ECONOMICSWhere ChinaMeets India –Burma and theNew Crossroadsof Asia is ThantMyint-U’s newbook, scheduledfor publicationin late 2011; it’sabout the historicand currentconnections betweenthe threecountries.Fiery Dragons:Banks, Moneylenders andMicrofinance inBurma by SeanTurnell explainshow Myanmarwent from oneof the richestcountries inSoutheast Asia toone of its poorestwithin the spaceof a century.one million refugees and internally displaced people, tens of thousandsof child soldiers, and the abundant use of forced labour’. In March 2010,the UN special rapporteur on Myanmar, Tomás Ojea Quintana, recommendedthat the UN consider establishing a Commission of Inquiry intowar crimes and crimes against humanity in the country.EconomicsYou needn’t spend much time in Myanmar to realise how profoundlydysfunctional its economy is. The country is rich in natural resources –including gas, oil, teak, and precious metals and gems – yet its people areamong the poorest in Asia, most struggling to get by on an income of lessthan $2 a day. Ask about the price of one of the clapped-out secondhandcars on the roads, or about the cost of real estate in Yangon, and you’ll beshocked by the sky-high figures, a reflection of ongoing inflation, whichhas seldom been under 25% per annum over the last decade.The Economist reported that K1.8 trillion, 23.7% of Myanmar’s 2011’sbudget, is earmarked for military spending, compared to 4.3% for educationand 1.3% for healthcare. When it comes to financing such expenditure,Sean Turnell, of Burma Economic Watch, notes that the government’sfavourite method has been to print money. Hence the inflation rates andthe lack of faith in the local currency that has created a black market forUS dollars.Deeper mining of Myanmar’s Alice in Wonderland d economics revealsthat thanks to its emergence as a major regional exporter of natural gas,the country has been running substantial trade surpluses since 2004; itsforeign-exchange reserves at 2010 were estimated to reach over $6 billion.As Myanmar specialist David Steinberg notes, the country’s economic crisisis ‘not with funding but with knowledge of economic affairs, prioritiesand distribution of the state’s considerable present and future resources’.Trading PartnersShunned by the West, Myanmar has wasted no time cutting trade dealswith its immediate neighbours, several of whom are themselves not shiningparagons of democracy. Despite Western sanctions against timberand jade, these materials are reportedly exported to China, Thailand andSingapore, then used to make furniture and jewellery for export.The flow of foreign investment isn’t likely to slow soon. India is spendingabout $100 million developing a port in Sittwe to access more fuel reservesin the Bay of Bengal, supposedly worth up to $4 billion a year. The Shwe gasreserves off the coast are projected to earn up to $24 billion over the next 20years. Thailand is spending $10 billion to develop a new seaport in Daweiand transport connections to it, while China will pay most of the costs of amassive highway from Kunming in China to a new seaport at Kyaukpyu,giving western China increased access to international trade routes.On occasion Asean (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) officialshave frowned over Myanmar’s behaviour – even expressing ‘revulsion’over the violent response to the September 2007 protests – but this hasseldom been followed with action. One-time adviser to George W Bushon Asia, Michael J Green likened Myanmar to a ‘crazy drunk’ on a blockof Asean homes: it would take their unified confrontation to get the bottleaway. At the time of research, Asean was considering whether to allowMyanmar to take on Asean’s chairmanship in 2014; the country skippedits turn in the lead role in 2006 because of international pressure over itspoor human-rights record.Tourism’s Economic ImpactWhile the government once hoped tourism would provide a steadysource of hard currency, it’s become clear as time has passed that the

government doesn’t depend on it. As Ma Thanegi, a former aide to AungSan Suu Kyi, puts it, ‘tourism is peanuts for the generals’, particularlywhen contrasted with the billions being earned for exports of gas, teakand – surprisingly – beans and pulses (estimated by Sean Turnell to accountfor $920.4 million in exports in 2009–10).In neighbouring Thailand around 6% of GDP, or about $14 billion annually,comes from tourism. Myanmar earns, at most, 0.7% of its GDPthrough tourism (calculated using CIA statistics and proboycott activists’estimates of the government receiving $100 million per year).While fellow Asean countries see many more tourists, visitor arrivalsin Myanmar have been on the rise following the lows experienced afterthe protests in September 2007 and Cyclone Nargis in May 2008. In 2010close to 300,000 tourists passed through Yangon International Airport,an increase of nearly 30% on 2009. According to the Bangkok-based Pacific-AsiaTravel Association (www.pata.org), Asians make up about twothirdsof the arrivals, Europeans 22% and Americans 8%.One the main deterrents to the growth of this sector of Myanmar’seconomy was the tourism boycott, launched during Visit Myanmar yearin 1996; the NLD called off that boycott in 2010, but still urge visitorsto avoid joining package groups and cruises when visiting the country.The Sanctions DebateSince 1988, economic sanctions, implemented mainly from the US, EU,Canada and Australia, have been deployed against individuals and industriesin an attempt to force political and social change in Myanmar.Loopholes allowed some companies – such as UK’s Premier Oil, France’sTotal and USA’s Unocal – to continue to help develop offshore gas fields.Stronger international sanctions were implemented in 1997 by the US,when it banned new investment by American companies in Myanmar.Strident lobbying and threats of consumer boycotts forced some majorcompanies (including PepsiCo, Heineken, Carlsberg and Levi Strauss) eitherto pull out or decide against investing in the country.THE GEM BUSINESSAround 70%of Myanmar’spopulation livesin rural areas andrelies on farmingfor its livelihood.A third of thepopulation livesbelow the povertyline.The Stone ofHeaven by Britishjournalists AdrianLevy and CathyScott Clark is aninvestigation intojade, both its historyas a preciousstone and thecurrent horrifyingcircumstancessurroundingits mining inMyanmar.Myanmar generates considerable income from the mining of precious stones – includingrubies, jade and sapphire – and metals such as gold and silver. There is controversysurrounding this mining, with reports of forced labour and dangerous working practices.Mining areas are not open to foreigners, including Mogok (Sagaing Region), Pyinlon(Shan State), Maingshu (Shan State), Myaduang (Kayah State) and parts of KachinState. Following the September 2007 protests, the EU added sanctions specificallyagainst the purchase of gems and precious stones, which is supposed to be a governmentmonopoly.The finer imperial jade or pigeon-blood rubies can only be purchased at exclusivedealer sessions during the government-sponsored Myanmar Gems, Jade & Pearl Emporium,held three or four times a year in Nay Pyi Taw; the 13-day Emporium in November2010, netted sellers $1.4 billion.Still, many visitors manage to buy stones from unlicensed dealers, who far outnumberthose who are licensed. The government turns a blind eye to most domestic trade;Mandalay’s jade market (p 209 ) is an example.There are many tales of visitors buying cheap gems and selling them for huge profitsin the West. Beware of scams: we’ve heard of a foreigner spending $2000 on worthlessstones hawked as jade in Mandalay.If any stones are found when your baggage is checked on departure, they may beconfiscated unless you can present a receipt showing they were purchased from agovernment-licensed dealer.319POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS THE SANCTIONS DEBATE

320In November 1999, the UN International Labour Organization took theunprecedented step of recommending sanctions against Myanmar, becauseof its use of civilians for forced labour and treacherous tasks of porteragefor the military (including serving as ‘human landmine detectors’).TESTING TIMES FOR THE MEDIAPOLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS THE SANCTIONS DEBATEMedia censorship in Myanmar has been routine since the military takeover in 1962,giving locals years of practice of using gossip, short-wave radios, satellite-TV dishes andcomputers to find out what their government doesn’t want them to know. Local journalistshave also become braver at pressing the envelope of what is permitted. In early2011 the government signalled that censorship would be eased, with coverage of issues,including health, technology and entertainment, no longer requiring pre-publicationapproval by the Press Scrutiny and Registration Division (PSRD).The following is an overview of Myanmar’s main media outlets:PrintTo get a sense of what passes for news, thumb through the English version of the NewLight of Myanmar, which features generals’ visits to plants and monasteries on the frontpage and little else of interest inside. The English-language weekly The Myanmar Timesis a bit bolder, but just as friendly to the government; its former editor and co-owner,Australian Ross Dunkley was found guilty of assault and immigration offences in June2011, a verdict he is set to appeal.Neither of these papers is the only source of printed news for locals, who have accessto over 150 privately owned newspapers and magazines. Many news magazinesare weeklies because the current bureaucracy involved in submitting all articles to thePSRD makes daily publication practically impossible.Editors have not been averse to publishing stories they know will have consequences.Reporters Without Borders noted that following Aung San Suu Kyi’s release at least 10publications were suspended for periods of one to three weeks for according, in thewords of the government censor, ‘too much importance’ to the story. There’s concernthat the proposed shift to a more informal Chinese-style of censorship might causeeditors to become more cautious about publishing such news at all, as they will becomepersonally responsible for the articles.TV & RadioThere are three free-to-air TV channels (MRTV, Myawady TV and MRTV-3), but many localsprefer to get their news from overseas radio broadcasts by the BBC’s World Service, VOA(Voice of America) and RFA (Radio Free Asia; www.rfa.org) or from satellite-TV channelssuch as BBC World, CNN and Democratic Voice of Burma (DVB; www.dvb.no), whosebrave video journalists (VJs) risk imprisonment to film events in Myanmar and smugglethem out of the country. It’s believed that there are over 10 million daily viewers of DVB inMyanmar (we saw the channel screened in the lobby of one hotel on our research trip) andthe work of DVB’s VJs is covered in the Oscar-nominated documentary Burma VJ.InternetIn 2009 the Committee to Protect Journalists (www.cpj.org) ranked Myanmar asthe worst country in the world in which to be a blogger, citing, among others, the case ofMaung Thura, who is serving a 59-year prison term for circulating video footage after CycloneNargis in 2008. Internet cafes face strict operating rules, and many sites, includingthat of Lonely Planet, are blocked; see p 363 for details on how people get around this.Despite the dangers, the internet is an increasingly popular and important means ofnews and communication in Myanmar. One of the most fascinating events we attendedduring our research in the country was Barcamp Yangon (www.barcampyangon.org), auser-generated conference on all things related to IT and the internet. Over two days,some 4700 people of all ages attended the event, during which topics such as blogging,computer coding and security were openly discussed.

BURMA OR MYANMAR?321What to call the Republic of the Union of Myanmar (to use its official name as of 2011)has been a political flashpoint since 1989. That was the year in which the military juntadecided to consign Burma, the name commonly used since the mid-19th century, to therubbish bin, along with a slew of other British colonial-era place names, such as Rangoon,Pagan, Bassein and Arakan.The UN recognises Myanmar as the nation’s official name; Myanmar is more inclusivethan Burma, given that its population isn’t by any means 100% Burman. However,nearly all opposition groups (including the NLD), many ethnic groups and several keynations including the US continue to refer to the country as Burma. As Aung San SuuKyi told us (see p 354 ), ‘I prefer Burma because the name was changed without anyreference to the will of the people.’In this book, the default name for the country is Myanmar, with Burma used for periodsbefore 1989 and where it’s the name of an organisation, ie Burma Campaign UK.‘Burmese’ refers to the Bamar people (not to all the country’s population, which weterm ‘the people of Myanmar’), the food and the language.All member nations were advised to review their links with Myanmar andensure they did not support forced labour there.In 2001 Japan controversially defied the embargo on nonhumanitarianaid to Myanmar. As an incentive for the regime to press ahead withreconciliation talks with Aung San Suu Kyi, Japan offered $28 million intechnical assistance to repair the Baluchaung hydroelectric power plantin Kayah State.Following Aung San Suu Kyi’s third arrest in 2003, the US imposedfull economic sanctions, which resulted in foreign banks in Myanmarpacking up and leaving. (The wording of the EU’s sanctions, however, allowedFrance’s Total gas company to continue operating there.) Critics ofthe use of sanctions argue that these measures hurt the local workforce.After the strengthening of the US sanctions, many Myanmar garmentfactories, virtually all of which are privately owned, closed down, reportedlyleading to the loss of up to 60,000 jobs.The controversy surrounding sanctions boils down to how effectivethey have been in forcing the pace of change. Thant Myint-U argues thata ‘policy of isolating one of the most isolated countries in the world –where the military regime isolated itself for the better part of 30 years,and which indeed has grown up and evolved well in isolation – is bothcounterproductive and dangerous’.‘The regime is the biggest sanction by far’, says Sean Turnell, explainingwhy the international community shies away from doing businesswith Myanmar. The absence of the rule of law, rampant corruption, andwhat Turnell terms ‘wilfully inept economic management’ are sufficienton their own to discourage business and investment, without the impositionsanctions, which have become largely symbolic.This is clearly not a view shared by the government, who lay the blamefor their citizens’ economic hardships at the foot of the sanction-imposingcountries. Many opposition political parties in the country wouldlike to see sanctions go too. However, the NLD has refused to drop itscall for continued economic sanctions until the new government hasdemonstrated progress and change toward meaningful democracy andhuman rights.The tourismboycott worked,at least judgingby its originalgoal: Myanmar receivedfewer than200,000 visitorsduring its VisitMyanmar Year(1996), well belowthe government’sinitial target of500,000.In its Press FreedomIndex for2010, ReportersWithout Borders(http://en.rsf. org)tagged Myanmarone of the world’smost repressivecountries towardsjournalists.POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS THE SANCTIONS DEBATE

322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimalayamountain chain,formed whenthe Indian andEurasian tectonicplates collided140 million yearsago, extendsto Myanmar’sKachin State.According to theAsean Centrefor Biodiversity(www.aseanbiodiversity.org),Myanmar is hometo 300 speciesof mammal, 400species of reptileand around 1000bird species.Environment &WildlifeA bit bigger than France and slightly smaller than Texas, Myanmar covers261,228 sq miles. It borders (clockwise from the west) Bangladesh,India, Tibet, China, Laos and Thailand, with 1199 miles of coastline facingthe Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea. Within the country’s bordersis extraordinary diversity, a slice of almost every habitat but desert.From frozen alpine country to steamy jungles, blushing coral reefs toopen grasslands, you name it, Myanmar’s got it. Scientists continue todiscover new species here, but at the same time, the country’s lack ofenvironmental standards is killing off many others.GeographyMyanmar’s south is similar to Malaysia and its north to northern Indiaor China. The centre is an overlap of the two, producing ‘zones’ whoseuniqueness is manifest in the scenery and creatures that hop around in it.The area southwest of Yangon is a vast delta region notable for itsproduction of rice. Paddy fields are also an ever-present feature of Myanmar’scentral broad, flat heartland, known as the ‘dry zone’ for its lackof rain. This area is surrounded by protective mountain and hill ranges.Most notable are the rugged Kachin Hills, which serve as the first stepsinto the Himalaya to the north; Hkakabo Razi, on the Tibetan border,which at 19,295ft is Southeast Asia’s highest mountain; and Mt Victoria(Nat Ma Taung), west of Bagan in Chin State, which rises to 10,016ft.Three major rivers – fed by monsoon downpours and melted Himalayansnows from Nepal and India – cut north to south through the country.The 1240-mile-long Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, one of Asia’s mostnavigable big rivers, feeds much of the country’s rice fields. It connectslower Myanmar (based around Yangon) with upper Myanmar (aroundMandalay). North of Mandalay, the Chindwin River connects the hillsto the north, while the Thanlwin (Salween) River leads from China tothe Gulf of Mottama, through Myanmar’s east. Also, the Mekong Riverpasses by on the short border with Laos.Flora & FaunaMyanmar, which sits on a transition zone between the plants and creaturesof the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia and the Himalayanhighlands, is a biodiversity hotspot. However, the troubled politics of thecountry over the last century have made it difficult for researchers togain an accurate picture of the current state of the country’s wildlife.AnimalsWhen Marco Polo wrote about Myanmar in the 13th century, he described‘vast jungles teeming with elephants, unicorns and other wild

easts’. Though Myanmar’s natural biodiversity has no doubt alteredconsiderably since that time, it’s difficult to say by just how much.The most comprehensive wildlife survey available was undertaken bythe Bombay Natural History Society (www.bnhs.org) between 1912 and1921 and published as the Mammal Survey of India, Burma and Ceylon.In Myanmar The Wild Animals of Burma, published in 1967, is the most‘recent’ work available and even this volume simply contains extractsfrom various surveys carried out by the British between 1912 and 1941,with a few observations dating to 1961. The US-based Wildlife ConservationSociety (www.wcs.org) has engaged in a number of localised surveys,primarily in the far north, over the past few years, but currently nobodyis attempting a full nationwide stocktake of plants and animals.As with Myanmar’s flora, the variation in Myanmar’s wildlife is closelyassociated with the country’s geographic and climatic differences. Hencethe indigenous fauna of the country’s northern half is mostly of Indo-Chinese origin, while that of the south is generally Sundaic (ie typical ofMalaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Java). In the Himalayan region north ofthe Tropic of Cancer (just north of Lashio), the fauna is similar to thatfound in northeastern India. In the area extending from around Myitkyinain the north to the Bago Mountains in the central region, there is overlapbetween geographical and vegetative zones – which means that much ofMyanmar is a potential habitat for plants and animals from all three zones.Distinctive mammals found in dwindling numbers within the moreheavily forested areas of Myanmar include leopards, fishing cats, civets,Indian mongooses, crab-eating mongooses, Himalayan bears, Asiaticblack bears, Malayan sun bears, gaur (Indian bison), banteng (wildcattle), serow (an Asiatic mountain goat), wild boars, sambar, barkingdeer, mouse deer, tapirs, pangolin, gibbons and macaques. Sea mammalsinclude dolphins and dugongs.Reptiles and amphibians include 27 turtle species (of which sevenare found exclusively in Myanmar), along with numerous snake varieties,of which an astounding 52 are venomous, including the commonSee www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure (searchfor ‘Rabinowitz’)for an in-depthinterview withAlan Rabinowitz,the man who hasdone more forconservation inMyanmar thananyone else.323ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & FAUNAMYANMAR’S ECO TREASURE CHESTMyanmar has long intrigued scientists who believe that many critically endangeredspecies, or even species that are new to science, might be living in closed-off parts ofthe country. As remote parts of the country have opened up, the scientists’ hopes havebeen proven correct.In 2010, the BBC reported the discovery of a new species of primate, since dubbedthe Burmese snub-nosed monkey. It’s estimated there’s a population of between 260and 330 of these monkeys living by the Mekong and Thanlwin rivers in Kachin State.In 2009, a team of World Conservation Society scientists discovered five Arakan forestturtles amid thick stands of bamboo in a sanctuary set up originally to protect elephants.Previously this critically endangered species, less than a foot long and with a light brownshell, had only been seen in museum specimens and a handful of captive examples.The Kitti’s hog-nosed bat, also known as the bumblebee bat, is another rare speciesdiscovered in Myanmar in 2001. At a length of 1.25in to 1.5in and weighing in at just0.07oz, the world’s smallest bat, as well as potentially the world’s smallest mammal (itvies with the Etruscan pygmy shrew for this honour), was previously thought to live onlyin a tiny part of western Thailand.The stunningly bright Gurney’s pitta is a small bird that underwent a dramatic declineduring the 20th century, until only a single population in Thailand was known. However, itwas also discovered in Myanmar in 2003, giving hope that it may also be able to survive.In 1999, another previously unknown species, the 25lb, 20in-tall ‘ leaf deer’, or ‘ leafmuntjac’ was confirmed in northern Myanmar. The tiny animal is so called because itcan be wrapped up in a large leaf.

324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & FAUNASAVING THE BIG CATSA rare example of wildlife conservation has been Myanmar’s establishment of theHukaung Valley Tiger Reserve, which was doubled in size in 2010 to 8452 sq miles. Conservationistsestimate that as few as 50 tigers survive in the area that could in theorysupport several hundreds more.Instrumental in helping establish the reserve was Dr Alan Rabinowitz, president andCEO of the US-based NGO Panthera (www.panthera.org) and a former executive directorat the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS). In a 2008 interview in the Myanmar Times,Rabinowitz applauded the government for creating the park and helping to make ecotourismto the area a viable alternative to killing tigers for illegal trade. ‘If tourists comeand spend money to see wildlife, then the local people start feeling that wildlife is morevaluable alive than dead’, he said.Even though local hunters get a fraction of the $100,000 or so that can be madewhen a tiger is butchered into separate parts, the amounts are large enough for villagersto build a house or make other major changes to their lives.Another step forward has been a preliminary agreement with the ethnic minority Wapeople who control the border areas of northeast Myanmar to stamp out the sale oftiger and other big-cat parts in markets in border towns such as Mong La and Tachileik.A 2010 report prepared by the wildlife-trade monitoring group Traffic (www.traffi c.org)showed that such items as tiger and leopard skin, bones, paws, penises and teeth werecommonly available and consumed mainly by Chinese traders. Tiger bone wine is apparentlya popular drink with those out for sex in these ‘wild east’ border towns.Panthera is also spearheading the Tiger Corridor Initiative, a cross-border,4660-mile-long ‘genetic corridor’ for tigers stretching from Bhutan to Malaysia, with alarge part of the corridor passing through Myanmar. The idea has been presented to theUN and endorsed by the King of Bhutan.An excellentresource onfeathered friendsin Myanmar isprovided bywww.birdlifeindochina.org.To find out moreabout the plightof elephants inMyanmar, see thereport compiledin 2006 for Eleaid(www.eleaid.com).cobra, king cobra (hamadryad), banded krait, Malayan pit viper, greenviper and Russell’s viper. This makes Myanmar home to more venomoussnakes than any other country in the world.Myanmar is rich in birdlife, with an estimated 687 resident and migratingspecies. Coastal and inland waterways of the delta and southern peninsulaare especially important habitats for Southeast Asian waterfowl.Endangered SpeciesOf some 8233 known breeding species (of which 7000 are plants) inMyanmar, 132 of these (animals, birds and plants) are endangered, includingthe flying squirrel, tiger and three-striped box turtle.There are believed to be anything from 4000 to 10,000 Asiatic elephantsliving in the wild throughout Myanmar. Their numbers aresteadily dropping, primarily due to logging, which leads to habitat destruction.Ironically, domesticated or captive elephants are widely usedby the logging industry to knock down the forests on which their wildcousins depend. However, the creature’s usefulness could be its verysaviour: Myanmar has the largest population of domesticated elephants(around 4000) in the world.Both the one-horned (Javan) rhinoceros and the Asiatic two-horned(Sumatran) rhinoceros are believed to survive in very small numbersnear the Thai border in Kayin State. The rare red panda (or cat bear) waslast sighted in northern Myanmar in the early 1960s but is thought tostill live in Kachin State forests above 6500ft.Deforestation poses the greatest threat to wildlife, but even in areaswhere habitat loss isn’t a problem, hunting threatens to wipe out therarer animal species. Wildlife laws are seldom enforced and poachingremains a huge problem in Myanmar.

PlantsAs in the rest of tropical Asia, most indigenous vegetation in Myanmar isassociated with two basic types of tropical forest: monsoon forest (witha distinctive dry season of three months or more) and rainforest (whererain falls more than nine months per year). It’s said there are over 1000plant species endemic to the country.Monsoon forests are marked by deciduous tree varieties, which shedtheir leaves during the dry season. Rainforests, by contrast, are typicallyevergreen. The area stretching from Yangon to Myitkyina contains mainlymonsoon forests, while peninsular Myanmar to the south of Mawlamyineis predominantly a rainforest zone. There is much overlappingof the two – some forest zones support a mix of monsoon forest andrainforest vegetation.In the mountainous Himalayan region, Myanmar’s flora is characterisedby subtropical broadleaf evergreen forest up to 6500ft; temperatesemi-deciduous broadleaf rainforest from 6500ft to 9800ft; and, abovethis, evergreen coniferous, subalpine snow forest and alpine scrub.Along the Rakhaing and Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) coasts, tidal forestsoccur in river estuaries, lagoons, tidal creeks and along low islands.Such woodlands are characterised by mangroves and other coastal treesthat grow in mud and are resistant to seawater. Beach and dune forests,which grow along these same coasts above the high-tide line, consist ofpalms, hibiscus, casuarinas and other tree varieties that can withstandhigh winds and occasional storm-sent waves.The country’s most famous flora includes an incredible array of fruittrees, over 25,000 flowering species, a variety of tropical hardwoods, andbamboo. Cane and rattan are also plentiful.Myanmar holds 75% of the world’s reserves of Tectona grandis, betterknown as teak (kyun n in Burmese). This dense, long-wearing, highlyprized hardwood remains one of Myanmar’s most important exports, despitesanctions being placed on its import to the US and the EuropeanUnion.Alan Rabinowitz’sBeyond the LastVillage: A Journeyof Discovery inAsia’s ForbiddenWilderness(2001) details theauthor’s attemptsto set up wildlifereserves inMyanmar’snorthern areas.325ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & FAUNATOP PARKS & RESERVESPARKHkakabo Razi National Park(p266)Indawgyi Wetland WildlifeSanctuary (p241)Inle Wetland Bird Sanctuary(p 186 )SIZE (SQMILES) FEATURES1472 highest mountain in Myanmar;forests; rare speciessuch as takin, musk andblack barking deer, andblue sheep299Southeast Asia’s largestlake, 120 species of birds642 floating agriculture, birdlife,otters, turtlesBEST TIMETO VISITOct-Apr yesJan-AprnoYear-round noMoeyungyi Wetlands (p 85 ) 40 125 species of birds Nov-Apr noMt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)National Park (p 287 )279 second-highest mountainin Myanmar, rare birds andorchidsPopa Mountain Park (p 127 ) 50 extinct volcano, unique dryzoneecosystem, monkeysNov-Mar yesNov-Mar noPERMITNEEDED?

326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL PARKSCOOKING UP AN ECO SOLUTIONDawn over a Myanmar village: the mist you see is not the evaporation of dew, but thesmoke from firewood- and charcoal-fuelled cooking stoves. According to Win Myo Thu,founder of the Myanmar NGO Ecodev (www.ecodev-mm.com), 90 per cent of Myanmar’spopulation relies on firewood for cooking and each household consumes some threetons of wood a year – all of which is putting pressure on Myanmar’s forests, particularlyin the dry zone.To tackle the problem, the A1 stove, an energy efficient cooking stove developedby Myanmar’s Forest Research Institute (FRI) has been distributed in the dry zone byEcodev. The stoves cost around $2 each and cut a household’s consumption of firewoodby one ton a year. With over 300,000 now in use, and 5000 a month being sold, a markethas been established for this simple energy-saving device.A 2009 report byenvironmentalwatchdog GlobalWitness founda dramaticdecrease in theillegal timbertrade betweenMyanmar andChina, but notessmuggling stillcontinues.National ParksBy an optimistic account, about 7% of Myanmar’s land area is made up ofnational parks and national forests, wildlife sanctuaries and parks, and otherprotected areas. However, such protection on paper is rarely translatedinto reality without the backing of adequate funds and effective policing.Apart from the parks and reserves covered in the table below and reviewedin full elsewhere in this guide, you may also want to enquire withspecialised travel agents about visits to the 103-sq-mile Chattin WildlifeSanctuary and the 620-sq-mile Alaungdaw Kathapa National Park, bothin Sagaing Region northeast of Mandalay, and both partly created to protectthe endangered thamin, a species of Eld’s Deer.Environmental IssuesMyanmar has little in the way of an official environmental movement.However, recycling and making use of every little thing is part of mostpeople’s daily life, disposability only being a luxury of the rich.Essentially no environmental legislation was passed from the time ofindependence in 1948 until after 1988. Since then, government dictums,such as recent efforts to ‘green the dry zone’ and protect wildlife, havebeen more words than action. ‘They may have laws on the books butthey mean extremely little’, says Sean Turnell, an expert on Myanmar’seconomy at Sydney’s Macquarie University.In 2009 the KoreaInternationalCooperationAgency (KOICA)launched a threeyearprogrammeworth $1.5 millionfor a reforestationproject inMyanmar’s dryzone.DeforestationMyanmar supposedly contains more standing forest, with fewer inhabitants,than any other country in Indochina. That said, it’s also disappearingfaster than almost anywhere else in Asia, and Myanmar’s forestsremain the most unprotected in the region.Much of Myanmar’s forest has fallen to the axe – for fuel and for timberexports (both legal and illegal) or due to clearing for farming. Oneof the most troubled areas is the so-called ‘dry zone’, made up of heavilypopulated Mandalay, lower Sagaing and Magwe divisions. Little of theoriginal vegetation remains in this pocket (which is about 10% of Myanmar’sland, but home to one-third of the population), due to growth inthe area’s population and deforestation.The problem isn’t new. Much of Britain’s 19th-century industrialisation,as well as the train tracks made here in Myanmar, were built fromBurmese timber. Following the 1988 putting down of the prodemocracyprotests, the government relaxed timber and fishing laws for short-termgain, ultimately causing more long-term problems.

Air & Water PollutionYou don’t need to be a scientific expert to sniff the air pollution in Yangonand Mandalay. According to a spokesperson for Ecodev (www.ecodev-mm.com), a local NGO, studies by the National Commission for EnvironmentalAffairs pegged air quality in these cities at below WorldHealth Organisation standards.Uncontrolled gold and other mining means that the release of pollutantsinto rivers and the sea is steadily increasing. The most noticeableaspect of pollution to travellers will be the piles of non-biodegradablewaste, such as plastic bags, dumped at the edge of towns and villagesand seen fluttering across the fields. Bans on the production and sale ofpolythene bags and cord exist in both Yangon and Mandalay but they arenot strictly enforced.Dams & PipelinesIn the last decade the authorities have embarked on a series of hydroelectricdam projects along the country’s major rivers, creating a crescendoof economic, social and environmental problems. Trumping thefuss made over the ongoing construction of the Tamanthi Dam on theChindwin River, which has so far forced the relocation of many tribalKuki villages and threatens the habitat of rare wildlife species, is theMyitsone Dam, the biggest of seven large dams currently planned on theMali, the N’Mai and the Ayeyarwady rivers.The government has said it wants to make hydropower its sole sourceof electricity by 2030 but critics believe the majority of the power generatedwill be exported to neighbouring countries.There’s also concern among environmentalists about the developmentof oil and gas fields off Myanmar’s coast and the impact this is having onfragile eco-systems as pipelines are built across the country to send thefossil fuels to Thailand and China.Find out aboutMyanmar’s riversand the environmentalproblemsthey face atBurma RiversNetwork www.burmariversnetwork.org, anumbrella gro.EarthrightsInternational(www.earthrights.org) documentshuman rights andenvironmentalabuses in Myanmar,focusingin particular onthe controversialYadana gaspipeline.327ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat standardgreetings tofriends andforeigners includesar pyi bi lar?(have you eatenyour lunch yet?)and bar hìn ne sarle? (what currydid you have forlunch?).Eating inMyanmar (Burma)Burmese food suffers from a bad rap – a rather unjustified bad rap inour opinion. While Burmese food can be somewhat oily, and lacks thediversity of cuisine in neighbouring Thailand, with a bit of advice andbackground knowledge we’re confident you’ll return from Myanmar havingsavoured some truly tasty and memorable meals.A Burmese MealT’ămìn (rice), also written as htamin, is the core of any Burmese meal.Rice is served with a variety of dishes that characterise Burmese cuisine,a unique blend of Burmese, Mon, Indian and Chinese influences. Thesedishes use a variety of local, largely plant- and seafood-based ingredients,and as with other Southeast Asian cuisines, an effort is made to balancethe four primary flavours: sour, salty, spicy and bitter.Although these foundations are relatively simple, one of the pleasures ofeating an authentic Burmese meal is the sheer variety of dishes at a singlesetting, something that rivals even Thai food. Upon arriving at any Myanmasaa thauk sain (Burmese restaurant), and having chosen a curry (seebox, p 329 ), fried dish or salad, a succession of side dishes will follow. One ofthese side dishes is invariably soup, either an Indian-influenced peh-hìn-ye(lentil soup, or dhal), studded with chunks of vegetables, or a tart leaf-basedhìn-jo (sour soup). A tray of fresh and par-boiled vegetables and herbs isanother common side dish; they’re eaten with various dips, ranging fromngăpí ye (a watery, fishy dip) to balachaung (a dry, pungent combinationof chillies, garlic and dried shrimp fried in oil). Additional vegetable-basedside dishes, unlimited green tea and a dessert of pickled tea leaves andchunks of jaggery (palm sugar) are also usually included.Good Yangon restaurants at which to experience this type of Burmesedining include Aung Thukha (p 60 ), Feel Myanmar Food (p 58 ) and DanuphyuDaw Saw Yee Myanma Restaurant (p 58 ).Burmese SpecialitiesOne of the culinary highlights of Burmese food is undoubtedly ăthouq q –light, tart and spicy salads made with raw vegetables or fruit tossedwith lime juice, onions, peanuts, roasted chickpea powder and chillies.Among the most exquisite are maji-yweq thouq, made with tender youngtamarind leaves, and shauq-thi dhouq, made with a type of indigenouslemon. Shwe Mei Tha Su (p 59 ) in Yangon does an excellent take on thelatter. In fact, the Burmese will make just about anything into a salad, ast’ămìn dhouq, a savoury salad made with rice, and nangyi dhouq, a saladmade with thick rice noodles, prove.A popular finish to Burmese meals and possibly the most infamousBurmese dish of all is leq-p’eq (often spelled laphet), fermented green

tea leaves mixed with a combination of sesame seeds, fried peas, driedshrimp, fried garlic, peanuts and other crunchy ingredients. The slimylookingmass of leaves puts some foreigners off, but it’s actually quitetasty once you get beyond the dish’s exotic appearance. A more userfriendlyversion of the dish is leq-p’eq thouq, where the fermented tea andnuts are combined in the form of a salad with slices of tomato and cabbageand a squeeze of lime. The dish is a popular snack in Myanmar, andthe caffeine boost supplied by the tea leaves makes the dish a favouriteof students who need to stay up late studying.Noodle dishes are prized by the Burmese and are most often eatenfor breakfast or as light meals between the main meals of the day. Thegeneral word for noodles is hkuauq-swèh. The most popular noodle andunofficial national dish is moún-hìn-gà (often spelled mohinga), thin ricenoodles served in a thick fish and shallot broth and topped with crispydeep-fried vegies or lentils. Mohinga is available just about everywhere,but our favourite bowl is at Myaung Mya Daw Cho (p 61 ) in Yangon.Móun-di (also known as mondhi) are spaghetti-like noodles served withchunks of chicken or fish. Another popular noodle dish, especially at festivals,is oùn-nó hkauq-swèh, Chinese-style rice noodles with pieces ofchicken in a broth made with coconut milk.Most, if not all, of these noodle dishes can be sampled at the Yangonteahouses Lucky Seven (p 63 ) and Thone Pan Hla (p 63 ).Regional & Ethnic VariationsLocal cuisine can be broadly broken down into dishes found in ‘lowerMyanmar’ (roughly Yangon and the delta), with more fish pastes andsour foods; and ‘upper Myanmar’ (centred at Mandalay), with more sesame,nuts and beans used in dishes.In Mandalay and around Inle Lake, it is also fairly easy to find Shancuisine, which is somewhat similar to northern Thai cuisine. Populardishes are k’auq sen ( Shan-style rice noodles with curry) and various fishand meat salads. Large maung jeut (rice crackers) are common through-out Shan State.RECIPESOne of theseminal workson Myanmarcuisine is Cookand Entertain theBurmese Way,by Mi Mi Khaing,available in Yangonbookshops.329EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURMESE MEALOIL SPILLBurmese food has a reputation for being oily. We won’t deny this, but in its defence willposit that much of this is the fault of the curries.The centrepiece of any Burmese meal, hi‘n (Burmese-style curries) are generallycooked until the oil separates from all other ingredients and rises to the top. The Burmeseterm for this cooking method is s’i pyan, ‘oil returns’, and the process ensures thatthe rather harsh curry paste ingredients – typically turmeric, tomatoes, ginger, garlic,onions and shrimp paste – have properly amalgamated and have become milder. Somerestaurants also add extra oil to maintain the correct top layer, as the fat also preservesthe underlying food from contamination by insects and airborne bacteria while the curriessit in open, unheated pots for hours at a time.The good news is that all this oil isn’t necessarily meant to be eaten, and it’s usuallyeasy enough to work around it. Those who’ve been burned by the spiciness of Thaifood will be pleased to learn that Burmese curries are the mildest in Asia – in fact, mostcooks don’t use chillies in their recipes. It’s also worth mentioning that the most commoncurry proteins you’ll encounter are fish, chicken, prawns or mutton. Relatively littlebeef or pork is eaten by people in Myanmar – beef because it’s considered offensive tomost Hindus and Burmese Buddhists, and pork because the nat (spirits) disapprove.Most importantly, it’s crucial to keep in mind that a curry only constitutes a singleelement of a Burmese meal. The side dishes, which include various soups, salads, dipsand fresh herbs, often have little or no oil.

330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURMESE MEALAn Introduction toMyanmar Cuisine(2004) by MaThanegi is an excellentsource ofMyanmar recipes,both sweet andsavoury.Shàn k’auq-swèh (Shan-style noodle soup), thin rice noodles in a lightbroth with chunks of chilli-marinated chicken or pork, is a favourite allover Myanmar, but is most common in Mandalay and Shan State. A variationpopular in Mandalay, called myi shay, is made with rice noodlesand is often served with pork. Another Shan dish worth seeking out isngà t’ămìn jin, ‘kneaded fish rice’, a turmeric-tinged rice dish. Both ofthese dishes and more are available at Yangon Shan restaurants 999Shan Noodle Shop (p 58 ) and Inlay Amathaya (p 62 ).Mon cuisine, most readily available in towns stretching from Bago toMawlamyine, is very similar to Burmese food, with a greater emphasison curry selections. While a Burmese restaurant might offer a choice offour or five curries, a Mon restaurant will have as many as a dozen, allA TASTE OF HOME: TIN CHO CHAWIt was my husband’s first trip to Myanmar, and I was eager to show Chris my country ofbirth and the much-loved food of my childhood. One dish I particularly wanted to sharewas let thoke, which can be translated as ‘hand-mixed’. It can roughly be described as asalad because all the ingredients are tossed in a dressing, but unlike salads in the West,it is hearty and substantial.So when my cousin asked what we wanted to eat, naturally, I suggested let thoke. Ihave made let thoke for my husband many times at home, but this was the first time hehad the chance to taste let thoke sone. Sone means an assortment or variety, and is adish you assemble yourself, with all the ingredients laid out on the table. As the namesuggests, it is mixed and eaten with your hands.We arrived at my cousin’s house early to help with the preparations, but all the ingredientswere already sliced, chopped and cooked. Concerned that my husband would beuncomfortable sitting on the floor, my cousin started to move a large table toward thekitchen, but we assured her we were used to sitting on the floor. We washed our handsand sat down on a bamboo mat. Chris gave me a look that asked, Are we eating on ourown again? I reminded him that as guests, we ate first and my cousin’s family would eatafterwards, so we must leave enough. Eating while our hosts watched was an unnervingexperience for Chris. He felt he was being rude eating first, but I explained that, as goodhosts, this was their way.My cousins kept saying ‘Please eat, don’t be polite’, so I started and took a smallamount of each ingredient: rice mixed with chilli oil, flat rice noodles, vermicelli, eggnoodles, mung-bean noodles mixed with turmeric oil, boiled sliced potatoes, Shan tofu,deep-fried tofu, fried garlic and fried onions. These I mixed with a small handful of thinlysliced white cabbage and chopped coriander. The cabbage gave the dish a crunchytexture while the coriander added freshness to an otherwise carbohydrate-heavy meal.Next came the seasonings: a teaspoon of pounded dried shrimp and a spoonful ofroasted chickpea powder. The powder helps emulsify the dressing, which is comprisedof oil infused with fried onion, tamarind liquid, a squeeze of lemon juice and a generousdash of fish sauce. Finally I cautiously added some crushed roasted chillies, and to theamusement of my cousin, Chris heaped a generous amount on his plate.Once all the ingredients were assembled, I used the fingertips of my right hand to mixand toss, mashing the potatoes, making sure all the ingredients were combined. A quicktaste and I added a little more lemon before being satisfied. Chris spent the next fiveminutes adding small amounts of fish sauce, lemon and tamarind. He felt it did not tastethe same as mine and I told him that’s the fun of making let thoke: each person adjuststhe flavours according to his or her own personal taste.Of all our food experiences in Myanmar, let thoke was the most memorable. For Chris,let thoke summed up the flavours of Burmese food: a balance of salty, sour and spicy.For me, the taste evoked memories of the food I ate while growing up in Yangon. It alsoreminded me that food always tastes better when mixed with your hands.Tin Cho Chaw is the author of hsa*ba, a Burmese cookbook and website (www.hsaba.com)

DOS & DON’TS331» A fork is held in the left hand and used as a probe to push food onto the spoon;you eat from the spoon.» Locals tend to focus on the flavours, not table talk, during meals.» If you’re asked to join someone at a restaurant, they will expect to pay for themeal. Expect to do likewise if you invite a local out for a meal.lined up in curry pots to be examined. Mon curries are also more likelyto contain chillies than those of other cuisines.Rakhaing (Arakan) food most resembles dishes found in Bangladeshand India’s Bengal state, featuring lots of bean and pulse dishes, veryspicy curries and flatbreads. Minn Lane Rakhaing Monte & Fresh Seafood(p 60 ) in Yangon is a good place to sample Rakhaing-influenced seafoodand noodles.In towns large and small throughout Myanmar you’ll find plenty ofChinese restaurants, many of which do a distinctly Burmese (eg oily)take on Chinese standards. Despite being the most ubiquitous type ofdining in Myanmar (upcountry this is often the only kind of restaurantyou’ll find), it’s probably the least interesting.Indian restaurants are also common, although much more so in Yangonthan elsewhere. Most are run by Muslim Indians, a few by Hindus.Excellent chicken dan-bauq (biryani), as well as all-you-can-eat vegetar-ian thali served on a banana leaf, is easy to find in the capital. The Myan-mar people call Indian restaurants that serve all-you-can-eat thali ‘Chitty’or ‘Chetty’ restaurants.SweetsThe typical Burmese dessert is often little more than a pinch of pickledtea leaves or a lump of palm sugar (jaggery). You can visit places makingjaggery and toddy (see p 333 ) on the road between Bagan and Mt Popa(see p 128 ). Bagan is also famous for its tamarind flakes, delicious candiesmade from the dried pulp of the sweet-sour fruit and wrapped in twistsof white paper; they’re made in Chauk, an hour’s drive south of Baganon the way to Salay.More substantial sweet dishes, generally referred to as moún (some-times written moun or mont), are regarded as snacks, and are often tak-en with equally sweet tea in the morning or afternoon.Prime ingredients for Burmese sweets include grated coconut, coconutmilk, rice flour (from white rice or sticky rice), cooked sticky rice,tapioca and various fruits. Some Burmese sweets have been influencedby Indian cooking and include more exotic ingredients such as semolinaand poppy seeds. In general, Burmese sweets are slightly less syrupysweet than those of neighbouring Thailand, and often take a somewhatfamiliar form, such as bein moun and moun pyit thalet, Burmese-stylepancakes served sweet or savoury.A good place to sample Burmese sweets in Yangon is from the street-sidevendors (see p 61 ) who set up every afternoon in front of the FMI Centre.DrinksNonalcoholic DrinksBlack tea, brewed in the Indian style with lots of milk and sugar, is ubiquitousand cheap, costing K250 per cup at the time of research. See belowfor more about the very Burmese institution of teahouses. If this is not toyour liking, ask for Chinese tea, which is weak and comes without milk.Pregnant women,stay away frombananas! Accordingto localbeliefs, yourbaby will be bornoverweight if youindulge whilepregnant.BANANASEATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) SWEETS

332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKSThe websitehsa*ba (www.hsaba.com),written bycookbook authorTin Cho Chaw,a contributorto this chapter,includes a blogthat regularlyfeatures Burmeserecipes.Fountain of youthin a bottle! SpirulinaBeer, madefrom lake algaenear Monywa,is revered forits ‘anti-ageing’qualities (less sofor the slightlysweet aftertaste).BEERMany restaurants will provide as much weak Chinese tea as you canhandle – for free if you order some food. It’s a good, safe thirst-quencher,and some people prefer it to regular Burmese tea.Soft drinks cost more, but are reasonable by Asian standards. Sincethe privatisation of industry there has been a boom in new made-in-Myanmar soft-drink brands, including Fantasy, Lemon Sparkling, Max,Star, Fruito and Crusher. They taste pretty much the same as their Westerncounterparts.Real coffee is limited to a handful of modern Western-style cafés inYangon and other large cities. As a result, coffee drinkers will find themselvesgrowing disturbingly attached to the ‘three-in-one’ packets of instantcoffee (the ‘three’ being coffee, milk and sugar), which you can havein teahouses for about K250.Alcoholic DrinksIn the past the people of Myanmar were not big drinkers. This was due toa lack of disposable income, but also to the consumption of alcohol beinglooked down upon by the many Burmese Buddhists who interpret the fifthlay precept against intoxication very strictly. However, with the advent of‘beer stations’ – places that serve cheap draught beer – the number of urbanlocals who can afford a few glasses of beer after work is on the rise.BeerApart from international brands such as Tiger, ABC Stout, Singha, SanMiguel and other beers brewed in Thailand and Singapore (typicallycosting K1700 for a 375mL can or bottle), there are a couple of Myanmarbrews. These include long-established, joint-venture Myanmar Beer,which is slightly lighter in flavour and alcohol than other SoutheastAsian beers (to the palate of at least a couple of researchers). A morewatery beer is Mandalay Beer. If you order it, some waiting staff maydouble-check to see if you meant ‘Myanmar’ beer. Founded in 1886, MandalayBrewery, in Yangon, also produces the New Mandalay Export label,which is the best-tasting local beer. Some fine, newer brands brewed inMyanmar include Dagon and Skol.Among the locals, Myanmar draught is the favourite; a glass of it willset you back only K500 or so.Liquors & WinesVery popular in Shan State is an orange brandy called shwe leinmaw.Much of it is distilled in the mountains between Kalaw and Taunggyi.It’s a pleasant-tasting liqueur and packs quite a punch. Near Taunggyi,there’s a couple of vineyards making wine (p 191 ) and in Pyin Oo Lwinthere are several sweet strawberry-based wines.There are also stronger liquors, including ayeq hpyu (white liquor),which varies in strength from brandylike to almost pure ethyl; and tawayeq (jungle liquor), a cruder form of ayeq hpyu. Mandalay is well knownfor its rums, and there is also, of course, the fermented palm juice knownas toddy.DRINKING WATERDrink water in Myanmar only when you know it has been purified – which in most restaurantsit should be. You should be suspicious of ice, although we’ve had lots of icedrinks in Myanmar without suffering any ill effects. Many brands of drinking water aresold in bottles and are quite safe, but check the seal on the bottle first. A 1L bottle, usuallykept cool by ice or refrigerator, costs about K300 or K400 at most hotels.

TODDY333Throughout central Myanmar and the delta, t’àn ye (or htan ye; palm juice) or toddyis the farmer’s choice of alcoholic beverage. T’àn ye is tapped from the top of a toddypalm, the same tree – and the same sap – that produces jaggery (palm sugar). The juiceis sweet and nonalcoholic in the morning, but by midafternoon it ferments naturally intoa weak, beerlike strength. By the next day it will have turned. The milky, viscous liquidhas a nutty aroma and a slightly sour flavour that fades quickly.Villages in some areas have their own thatched-roof toddy bars, where the localsmeet and drink pots of fermented toddy. The toddy is sold in the same roughly engravedterracotta pots the juice is collected in, and drunk from coconut half-shells set on smallbamboo pedestals. Some toddy bars also sell t’àn-ayeq (toddy liquor, also called jaggeryliquor), a much stronger, distilled form of toddy sap.Where To Eat & DrinkMyanmar has three dining/drinking scenarios: what’s in Yangon (includingmany expat-oriented, high-end choices); what’s in other oft-visitedplaces, including Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake and Ngapali Beach (manytraveller-oriented menus, with Thai and pizza); and everywhere else.Food can be quite cheap (from K1200 or K2000 for a full stomach) if youstick to roadside restaurants with their curry-filled pots or pick-and-pointrice dishes. It’s worth mentioning that these restaurants, though cheap,don’t always meet international hygiene standards. That said, you’re usuallylooking at K3000 to K5000 for a meal. In many mid-sized towns, thereare basic stands and maybe a Chinese restaurant or two – and that’s it.Listings in this book are divided into three price brackets: budget($), meal less than $3 (about K2550); midrange ($$), $3 to $15 (aboutK2550 to K12,750); and top end ($$$), more than $15 (about K12,750).Quick EatsThe bulk of Myanmar eateries are basic, with concrete floors, a wide-openfront for ventilation and often a menu in English. Burmese eateries arebusiest (and many say freshest) at lunch. No menus are necessary at most;just go to the line of curries and point to what you want. A meal comeswith a tableful of condiments, all of which are automatically refilled onceyou finish them. An all-you-can-eat meal can start at as little as K1500.Another abundant option is the (usually) hole-in-the-wall Indian (oftenMuslim) curry shop, which sometimes serves vegie dishes only and no beer.Like most Southeast Asians, the people of Myanmar are great graband-gosnackers. Stands at night markets, selling a host of sweets andbarbecued meals and noodles, get going around 5pm to 8pm or later.Generally you can get some fried noodles, a few pieces of pork, or stickyrice wrapped in banana leaf for a few hundred kyat.RestaurantsMost restaurants keep long hours daily, usually from 7am to 9pm or untilthe last diner wants to stumble out, their belly full of curry or beer.Chinese restaurants are found in most towns and most have similarsprawling menus, with as many as 50 rice or noodle and chicken, pork,lamb, fish, beef or vegetable dishes, usually without prices indicated. Vegiedishes start at around K800 or K1000; meat dishes about K1200 or K1500.More upmarket restaurants – some serving a mix of Asian foods, othersspecialising in one food type, such as pizza or Thai – can be found inBagan, Mandalay, Inle Lake and especially Yangon. Also, most top-endhotels offer plusher eating places, sometimes set around the pool. Suchcomfort is rarer to come by off the beaten track.FRUITMyanmar’s fruitofferings vary byregion and season.Don’t missPyin Oo Lwin’sstrawberries andBago’s pineapples.Mango isbest from Marchto July; jackfruitfrom June toOctober.EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-pressed to find anything resembling the Western conceptof a bar or pub. Most drinking is done at dark shophouse restaurants oropen-air barbecue restaurants, sometimes cutely called ‘beer stations’ inBurmese English. Opening hours are therefore the same as for restaurants.All but Muslim Indian restaurants keep cold bottles of Tiger andMyanmar Beer handy (charging from K1700 in basic restaurants and upEATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) VEGETARIANS & VEGANSServers inteahouses aroundMyanmar are‘tea boys’, poorkids from thecountryside whobring snacks anddrinks to tables.They work dailyin exchange forroom, board andseveral dollars amonth. One toldus: ‘Some day Ihope to be a teamaker or a teahousemanager.’to K3000 or so in swankier ones). It’s perfectly fine to linger for hoursand down a few beers.Men and women don’t often intermingle at restaurants, so in manyplaces you may see red-faced men lingering over a slowly massing numberof empty bottles, with full ones always kept nearby by waiting staff.TeahousesTeahouses are an important social institution in Myanmar, a key meetingplace for family, business associates or conspirators speaking of potentiallyfreer times. Locals like to sit and chat while sipping tea – sometimesfor hours. They’re also a great place for breakfast (see p 334 ), asmany also serve noodles, fried snacks or pastries. ‘Morning teahouses’typically open from 6am to 4pm, while evening ones open from 4pm or5pm and stay open till 11pm or later.Vegetarians & VegansVegetarians will be able to find fare at most restaurants in Myanmar.Many Burmese Buddhists abstain from eating the flesh of any four-leggedanimal and, during the Buddhist rain retreat around the Waso full moon,may take up a ‘fire-free’ diet that includes only uncooked vegetables andfruit. Even meaty barbecues have a few skewered vegetables that can begrilled up. The easiest way to convey your needs is saying ‘I can’t eat meat’(ǎthà mǎsà-nain-bù). Some Indian or Nepali restaurants are vegan.Throughout the regional chapters, we highlight some particularlygood vegetarian options or restaurants.Habits & CustomsAt home, most families take their meals sitting on reed mats around alow, round table about 1ft in height. In restaurants, chairs and tables areBREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONSVirtually every hotel fee in Myanmar includes some sort of breakfast, but the offeringsare usually very basic and/or barely palatable attempts at Western food such as toastand a fried egg. With this in mind, it’s worth exchanging the comfort of the hotel bubblefor breakfast at a Myanmar-style teahouse. These places are not only cheap and delicious,but also an authentic slice of Myanmar daily life.Teahouses are the best place to dig into the world of Burmese noodle dishes. Mohingais usually available as a matter of course, but other more obscure noodle dishes offeredat teahouses include oùn-nó hkauq-swèh (a wheat noodle dish with a coconut-milkbroth), myi shay (a Shan-influenced noodle soup with pickled tofu and pork) and nangyidhouq (a salad of wide rice noodles). Burmese-style teahouses that serve these dishesare also likely to serve fried rice and t’ămìn dhouq (rice salad), also great for breakfast.Indian/Muslim-owned teahouses often specialise in deep-fried dishes such as the ubiquitoussamosas and poori (deep-fried bread served with a light potato curry), as well as oilfreebreads such as dosai (southern Indian-style crepes) and nanbya (nan bread), the latteroften served with a delicious pigeon pea-based dip. And Chinese-style teahouses oftenfeature lots of baked sweets as well as meaty steamed buns and yum cha-like nibbles.See p 63 for our shortlist of Yangon teahouses.

uHmore common. The entire meal is served at once, rather than in courses.In basic Burmese restaurants, each individual diner in a group typicallyorders a small plate of curry for himself or herself, while side dishes areshared among the whole party. This contrasts with China and Thailand,for example, where every dish is usually shared.Traditionally, Burmese food is eaten with the fingers, much like in India,usually with the right hand (but using the left doesn’t seem to betaboo as it is in India). Nowadays, it’s also common for urban Myanmarpeople to eat with a k’ăyìn (or hkayin; fork) and zùn (tablespoon). Theseare always available at Burmese restaurants and are almost always givento foreign diners.If you eat at a private home, it’s not unusual for the hostess and childrento not join you at the table.Eat Your WordsFor some general Burmese phrases and pronunciation guidelines, see theLanguage chapter.Food GlossaryTypical Burmese Dishesǎmèh·hnaq amENHp' beef in gravyceq·thà·ǎc’o·jeq äkk'o;"axY¬ixYk'sweet chickenceq·thà·gin ä k's;"k='grilled chicken (satay)ceq·thà·jaw jeq äkk'o;"eäk;'xYk''fried chickenhìn h=''" curryǎmèh-dhà-hìn amEo;"h='" beef curryceq-thà-hìn äkk'o;"h='" chicken curryǎthì·ǎyweq·hìn/ aoI"arâk'h='"Á vegetable currythì·zoun·hìn-jo oI"cu®h='"xY¬Ihìn·jo h='"xY¬i soup (clear or mild)s’an·hlaw·hìn·jo zn'elH;'h='"xY¬i sizzling rice soups’éh·hnǎmyò·hìn·jo zy'¾NHc'mY¬i"h='"xY¬i ‘12-taste’ soupmóun·di mun'¾tI mount-ti (Mandalaynoodles and chicken/fish)móun·hìn·gà mun'¾h='"x:" mohinga (noodles andchicken/fish)móun·s’i·jaw mun'¾zIeäk;' sweet fried-rice pancakesmóun·zàn mun'¾zn'" sticky rice cake withjaggery (palm sugar)myì shay ¨mI"rH–' Shan-style noodle soupngà·dhouq =:"oup' fish saladngà·baùn·(douq) =:"ep:='"(qup') steamed fish (in bananaleaves)t’ămìn qm='" ricekauq·hnyìn·baùn ek;k'Mî='"ep:='" steamed sticky riceoùn·t’ămìn aun'"qm='" coconut ricet’ ǎmìn-gyaw qm='"eäk;'fried ricet’ǎdhì·móun qn'"sI"mun'¾ toddy-palm sugar cakeweq·thǎni 0k'snI red porkRICEUntil 2008’sCyclone Nargisdevastated muchof the rice crop inthe Delta region,Myanmar wasthe world’s sixthlargest producerof rice.For short videoson various Burmesefoodrelatedtopics,from cookingBurmese dishesto eating inMyanmar, searchfor ‘meemalee’skitchen’ onYouTube.335EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT YOUR WORDSMeat & Seafoodǎmèh·dhà amEo;" beefceq·thà äkk'o;" chicken

U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT YOUR WORDSRudyard Kiplingfamously referredto ngapi, the Burmesefermentedfish condiment,as ‘fish pickledwhen it ought tohave been buriedlong ago'.Cooking MyanmarFood (www.cookmyanmarfood.wordpress.com) features agrowing list ofMyanmar foodrecipes, includingrecipes formost of the morefamous Burmesedishes.k’ǎyú xru shellfishngà =:" fishngǎk’u =:"xU catfishngǎshín =:"rH„'¾ eelngǎthǎlauq·paùn =oel;k'ep:='" carppin·leh·za/ye·thaq·tǎwa p='ly'c;ÁerotËv:seafoodpyi·jì·ngà ¨p–'äkI"=:" squidweq·thà vk'o;" porkVegetablesbù·dhì .U"oI" zucchini/gourdceq·thun·niäkk'oân'nIoniongaw·bi·douq egòfIqup'' cabbagehìn·dhì·hìn·yweq h='"oI"h='"râk' vegetableshmo miúui' mushroomshngǎpyàw·bù =Hk'epY;fU" banana flowerkǎlǎbèh kul;"pE chick peask’ǎyàn·dhì xrm'"oI" eggplant/auberginek’ǎyàn·jin·dhì xrm'"xYw'oI" tomatomoun·la·ú·wa mun'l;wv: carrotpàn-gaw·p’i- pn'"egòfI cauliflowerp’ǎyoun·dhì fru®oI" pumpkinpèh·dhì pEoI" beanspyaùn·bù e¨p;='"fU" corn (cob)Fruitàw·za·thì äsj;oI" custard apple(‘influence fruit’)ceq·mauq·thì äkk'em;k'oI" rambutan(‘cocksomb fruit’)cwèh·gàw·dhì kEâJek;oI" pomelodù·yìn·dhì dU"r='"oI" durianlain·c’ì·dhì lui='xYI"oI" lycheelein·maw·dhì liemμ;'oI" orangemeq·màn·dhì mk'mn'"oI" plum (damson)mǎjì·dhì mn'kY–'"oI" tamarindnǎnaq·thì n;nt'oI" pineapplengǎpyàw·dhì =Hk'epY;oI" bananaoùn·dhì aun'"oI" coconutpàn·dhì pn'"oI" apple (‘flower fruit’)shauq·thì erH;k'oI" lemont’àw·baq·thì eq;pt'oI" avocado (‘butter fruit’)than·bǎya·dhì o®pr;oI" limethiq·thì/ǎthì oc'oI"ÁaoI" fruitthǎyeq·dhì ork'oI" mangothìn·bàw·dhì oe.¿;oI" papaya (‘boat-shapedfruit’)Spices & Condimentsceq·thun·byu äkk'oân'¨f† garlicgyìn gY='" gingerhnàn NHm'" sesame

âuuhnìn·ye NH='"r–'' rose syrupkǎlà·t’àw·baq kul;"eq;pt' gheekùn·ya kâm'"y; betel quidmeiq·thǎlin mit'ol=' galangal(white gingerlike root)mye·bèh·(jaw) e¨mpE(eäk;') peanuts (fried)nan·nan·bin n®n®p=' corianderngan·pya·ye =®¨p;r–'' fish saucengǎyouq·thì =rut'oI" chillingǎyouq·ye =rut'r–' chilli sauceoùn·nó aun'"Niu¾ coconut creamp’a·la·zé f:l;ec¾ cardamompaun·móun ep:='mun'¾ breadpèh·ngan·pya·ye pE=®¨p;r–''soy saucet’àw·baq eq;pt' buttertha·gu o;kUU sago/tapiocat’oùn qu®" lime (for betel)s’à z;" salts’ǎnwìn zNâ='" turmericsha·lǎka·ye rH;lk;r–' vinegarthǎjàoäk;"sugarto·hù/to·p’ù tuihU"ÁtuifU" tofu (beancurd)Cold Drinksǎyeq ark' alcoholbi·ya/tăbălìn .Iy;Átc'pul='" beercan·ye äk®r–'' sugarcane juicelein·maw·ye liemμ;'r–' orange juicenwà·nó Nâ;"Nui¾ milkoùn·ye aun'"r–' coconut juicep’yaw·ye/ă·è efY;'r–'Áaea" soft drinks’o·da zuid: soda watert’àn·ye qn'"r–' toddythan·bǎya·ye o®pr;r–'' lime juiceye- er waterye-thán eron'¾ bottled water(‘clean water’)ye·è erea" cold waterye·jeq·è erkYk'ea" boiled cold waterye·nwè ereNâ" hot waterIf you’re havingissues with onionbreath in Myanmar,it’s becausethe Burmese allegedlyconsumethe most onionsper capita of anycountry in theworld.Although Myanmaris a foodsurplus producer,the World FoodProgrammeestimates thatas much as 17%of the populationare undernourished.337EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT YOUR WORDSHot Drinkskaw·fi ek;'fI coffeedhǎjà·néh oäk;"nE¾ with sugarnó·s’i·néh Nui¾zInE¾ with condensed milknwà·nó·néh Nâ;"Nui¾nE¾ with milklǎp’eq·ye·jàn/ lk'fk'r–''äkm'"Ágreen tea (plain)ye·nwè·jàn ereNâ"äkm'"leq·p’eq·ye lk'fk'r– tea (Indian)

338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday its oftenin the form of apilgrimage. MaThanegi describesone suchtrip in The NativeTourist: In Searchof Turtle Eggs.All religiousgroups are barredfrom engaging inpolitical activitiesand acceptingfunds fromforeign sources.Religion & BeliefFaith and superstition go hand in hand in Myanmar. About 89% of thepeople of Myanmar are Buddhist, but many also pay heed to ancientanimist beliefs in natural spirits or nats. Locals are proud of their beliefsand keen to discuss them. Knowing something about Buddhism in particularwill help you better understand life in the country.Freedom of religion is guaranteed under the country’s constitution.However Buddhism is given special status. Myanmar’s ethnic patchworkof people also embraces a variety of other faiths, among which Islam andChristianity are the most popular.BuddhismThe Mon were the first people in Myanmar to practise Theravada (meaningDoctrine of the Elders) Buddhism, the oldest and most conservativeform of the religion. King Asoka, the great Indian emperor, is known tohave sent missions here (known then as the ‘Golden Land’) during the3rd century BC. A second wave is thought to have arrived via Sinhalesemissionaries between the 6th and 10th centuries.By the 9th century the Pyu of northern Myanmar were combiningTheravada with elements of Mahayana (Great Vehicle) and Tantric Buddhismbrought from their homelands in the Tibetan Plateau. During theearly Bagan era (11th century), Bamar king Anawrahta decided that theBuddhism practised in his realm should be ‘purified’ from all non-Theravadaelements. It never completely shed Tantric, Hindu and animistelements, but remains predominately Theravada.RELIGIOUS CONFLICTSFriction between religious groups in Myanmar is not uncommon. In February 2001, riotsbetween Buddhists and Muslims broke out in Sittwe, followed a few months later byones in Taungoo that, according to Human Rights Watch, resulted in nine Muslim deathsincluding three children, the destruction of 60 homes and looting of Muslim-ownedshops.As David Steinberg notes in Burma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needs to Know, theseriots are ‘usually based on some perceived insult by a Muslim to Buddhism or to a Burmesewoman’. There is also the ongoing problem of the government’s non-recognition ofthe Muslim Rohingya minority, which is very controversial among most locals in RakhaingState (see p 277 ).Relations between each of the religions hasn’t been helped by the fact that withingovernment Buddhists tend to attain higher rank more easily than non-Buddhists.There has also been a programme of building pagodas in border regions including theChristian area of Kachin State bordering China and the Muslim areas of Rakhaing Statebordering Bangladesh.For information on violations to religious freedom in Myanmar, read the 2006 USState Department report at www.state.gov/g/drl/rls/irf/2006/71335.htm.

BUDDHA’S HAND SIGNSAt temples and shrines, look out for the following hand signs of buddha images, eachhas a different meaning:» Abhaya Both hands have palms out, symbolising protection from fear.» Bhumispara The right hand touches the ground, symbolising when Buddha satbeneath a banyan tree until he gained enlightenment.» Dana One or both hands with palms up, symbolising the offering of dhamma(Buddhist teachings) to the world.» Dhyana Both hands rest palm-up on the buddha’s lap, signifying meditation.» Vitarka or Dhammachakka Thumb and forefinger of one hand forms a circlewith other fingers (somewhat like an ‘OK’ gesture), symbolising the first publicdiscourse on Buddhist doctrine.Theravada vs MahayanaTheravada Buddhism (also followed in Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka andThailand) differs from Hinduism, Judaism, Islam and Christianity in thatit is not centred around a god or gods, but rather a psycho-philosophicalsystem. Today it covers a wide range of interpretations of the basic beliefs,which all start from the enlightenment of Siddhartha Gautama, aprince-turned-ascetic and referred to as the Buddha, in northern Indiaaround 2500 years ago.In the Theravada school, it’s believed that the individual strives toachieve nibbana a (nirvana), rather than waiting for all humankind be-ing ready for salvation as in the Mahayana (Large Vehicle) school. TheMahayana school does not reject the other school, but claims it has extendedit. The Theravadins see Mahayana as a misinterpretation of theBuddha’s original teachings. Of the two, the Theravada is more austereand ascetic and, some might say, harder to practise.During the U Nuperiod, Buddhismfunctioned as astate religion, asembodied in suchcatchphrases as‘the Socialist Wayto Nibbana’.339RELIGION & BELIEFBuddhist TenetsBuddha taught that the world is primarily characterised by dukkha (suf-fering), anicca a (impermanence) and anatta a (insubstantiality), and thateven our happiest moments in life are only temporary, empty and unsatisfactory.The ultrapragmatic Buddhist perception of cause and effect – kammain Pali, karma a in Sanskrit, kan in Burmese – holds that birth inevitablyleads to sickness, old age and death, hence every life is insecure andsubject to dukkha. Through rebirth, the cycle of thanthaya a ( samsarain Pali) repeats itself endlessly as long as ignorance and craving remain.Only by reaching a state of complete wisdom and nondesire can oneattain true happiness. To achieve wisdom and eliminate craving, onemust turn inward and master one’s own mind through meditation, mostcommonly known in Myanmar as bhavana a or kammahtan.Devout Buddhists in Myanmar adhere to five lay precepts, or moralrules (thilaain Burmese, sila in Pali), which require abstinence from kill-ing, stealing, unchastity (usually interpreted among laypeople as adultery),lying and intoxicating substances.In spite of Buddhism’s profound truths, the most common Myanmarapproach is to try for a better future life by feeding monks, donatingto temples and performing regular worship at the local paya (Buddhistmonument) – these activities are commonly known as ‘merit making’.For the average person everything revolves around the merit (kutho,from the Pali kusala, meaning ‘wholesome’), one is able to accumulatethrough such deeds.The monkhood,numberingaround 400,000and collectivelyknown as theSangha, is seenas the nation’sonly real civilinstitution.

340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robesare usuallyreserved fornovices under 15,darker coloursfor older, fullyordained monks.Monks & NunsEvery Buddhist Myanmar male is expected to take up temporary monasticresidence twice in his life: once as a samanera a (novice monk) betweenthe ages of 10 and 20, and again as a hpongyi (fully ordained monk)sometime after the age of 20. Almost all men or boys aged under 20 ‘takerobe and bowl’ in the shinpyu (novitiation ceremony).All things possessed by a monk must be offered by the lay community.Upon ordination a new monk is typically offered a set of three robes(lower, inner and outer). Other possessions a monk is permitted includea razor, a cup, a filter (for keeping insects out of drinking water), an umbrellaand an alms bowl.In Myanmar, women who live the monastic life as dasasila a (‘10-pre-cept’ nuns) are often called thilashin (possessor of morality) in Burmese.Myanmar nuns shave their heads, wear pink robes and take vows in anordination procedure similar to monks. Generally, nunhood isn’t consideredas ‘prestigious’ as monkhood, as nuns generally don’t performceremonies on behalf of laypeople, and keep only 10 precepts – the samenumber observed by male novices.In mornings, you’ll see rows of monks and sometimes nuns carryingbowls to get offerings of rice and food. It’s not begging. It’s a way of lettinglocals have the chance of doing the deed of dhana, thus acquiringmerit.For more onBuddhism, checkwww.dharmanet.org or www.accesstoinsight.org.Temples & MonasteriesPaya (pa-yah), the most common Myanmar equivalent to the often misleadingEnglish term ‘pagoda’, literally means ‘holy one’ and can refer topeople, deities and places associated with religion. Often it’s a genericterm covering a stupa, temple or shrine.There are basically two kinds of paya: the solid, bell-shaped zediand the hollow square or rectangular pahto. A zedi or stupa is usuallythought to contain ‘relics’ – either objects taken from the Buddha himself(pieces of bone, teeth or hair) or certain holy materials.The term pahto is sometimes translated as temple, though shrinewould perhaps be more accurate as priests or monks are not necessarilyin attendance. Mon-style pahto, with small windows and ground-levelpassageways, are also known as a gu or ku (from the Pali-Sanskrit guha,meaning ‘cave’).Both zedi and pahto are often associated with kyaung (Buddhistmonasteries), also called kyaungtaik and hpongyi-kyaung. The mostimportant structure on the monastery grounds is the thein (a consecrat-ed hall where monastic ordinations are held). An open-sided resthouseor zayat may be available for gatherings of laypeople during festivals orpilgrimages.FOUR NOBLE TRUTHS & THE EIGHTFOLD PATHThe Buddha taught four noble truths:The eightfold path consists of:1 Life is dukkha (suffering) 1 Right thought2 Dukkha comes from tanha (selfish desire). 2 Right understanding3 When one forsakes selfish desire, 3 Right speechsuffering will be extinguished.4 Right action4 The ‘eightfold path’ is the way to 5 Right livelihoodeliminate selfish desire.6 Right exertion7 Right attentiveness8 Right concentration

Nat WorshipOne of the most fascinating things about Myanmar is the ongoing worshipof the nat (spirit being). Though some Buddhist leaders downgradethe nat, the nat are very much alive in the lives of the people of Myanmar.341HistoryWorship of nats predates Buddhism in Myanmar. Nats have long believedto hold dominion over a place (natural or human-made), personor field of experience.Separate, larger shrines were built for a higher class of nat, descendedfrom actual historic personages (including previous Thai and Bamarkings) who had died violent, unjust deaths. These suprahuman nat,when correctly propitiated, could aid worshippers in accomplishing importanttasks, vanquishing enemies and so on.Early in the 11th century in Bagan, King Anawrahta stopped animalsacrifices (part of nat worship at Mt Popa) and destroyed nat temples.Realising he may lose the case for making Theravada Buddhism thenational faith, Anawrahta wisely conceded the nat’s coexistence withBuddha.There were 36 recognised nat at the time (in fact, there are manymore). Anawrahta sagely added a 37th, Thagyamin, a Hindu deity basedon Indra, whom he crowned ‘king of the nat’. Since, in traditional Bud-dhist mythology, Indra paid homage to Buddha, this insertion effectivelymade all nat subordinate to Buddhism. Anawrahta’s scheme worked,and today the commonly believed cosmology places Buddha’s teachingsat the top.Many Buddhisttemples inMyanmar havetheir own nat-sin(spirit house)attached to themain pagoda.SPIRITHOUSERELIGION & BELIEFWorship & BeliefsIn many homes you may see the most popular nat in the form of an un-husked coconut dressed in a red gaung baung (turban), which representsthe dual-nat t Eindwin-Min Mahagiri (Lord of the Great Mountain WhoIs in the House). Another widespread form of nat worship is exhibitedthrough the red-and-white cloths tied to a rear-view mirror or hood ornament;these colours are the traditional nat colours of protection.Some of the more animistic guardian nat remain outside home andpaya. A tree-spirit shrine, for example, may be erected beneath a particularlyvenerated old tree, thought to wield power over the immediatevicinity. These are especially common beneath larger banyan trees (Ficusreligiosa), as this tree is revered as a symbol of Buddha’s enlightenment.A village may well have a nat shrine in a wooded corner for the pro-pitiation of the village guardian spirit. Such tree and village shrines aresimple, dollhouse-like structures of wood or bamboo; their proper placementis divined by a local saya a (teacher or shaman), trained in spiritlore. Such knowledge of the complex nat world is fading fast among theyounger generations.Spirit possession – whether psychologically induced or metaphysical –is a phenomenon that is real in the eyes of locals. The main fear is notsimply that spirits will wreak havoc on your daily affairs, but rather thatone may enter your mind and body and force you to perform unconscionableacts in public.The written Burmeseword natis likely derivedfrom the Pali-Sanskrit natha,meaning lord orguardian.NATNat FestivalsOn certain occasions the nat cult goes beyond simple propitiation of thespirits (via offerings) and steps into the realm of spirit invocation. Mostcommonly, this is accomplished through nat pwe (spirit festivals), specialmusical performances designed to attract nat to the performance venue.

342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with ageneral fear ofnat will avoid eatingpork, whichis thought to beoffensive to thespirit world.To lure a nat to the pwe takes the work of a spirit medium, or natgadaw(nat t wife), who is either a woman or, more commonly, a maletransvestite who sings and dances to invite specific nat to possess them.The nat also like loud and colourful music, so musicians at a nat pwebang away at full volume on their gongs, drums and xylophones, producingwhat sounds like some ancient form of rock and roll.Every nat pwe is accompanied by a risk that the invited spirit maychoose to enter, not the body of the nat-gadaw, but one of the spectators.One of the most commonly summoned spirits at nat pwe is Ko Gyi Kyaw(Big Brother Kyaw), a drunkard nat who responds to offerings of liquorimbibed by the nat-gadaw. When he enters someone’s body, he’s given tolascivious dancing, so a chance possession by Ko Gyi Kyaw is especiallyembarrassing.Once possessed by a nat, the only way one can be sure the spirit won’treturn again and again is to employ the services of an older Buddhistmonk skilled at exorcism – a process that can take days, if not weeks.Without undergoing such a procedure, anyone who has been spirit possessedmay carry the nat stigma for the rest of their lives. Girls whohave been so entered are considered unmarriageable unless satisfactorilyexorcised.IslamAlthough official statistics say that 4% of Myanmar’s population followIslam, according to a 2006 US government report on religious freedomin Myanmar, local Muslim leaders believe the more accurate figure isapproximately 20%. Either way, Muslims have been part of Myanmar’sreligious fabric from at least the 9th century, and possibly as far back asthe 6th century in Rakhaing State.Waves of Indian immigration under British colonial rule boosted thelocal Muslim population. This was slashed during WWII when many Indiansfled the country, and again from the start of military rule in 1962when ethnic Indians were expelled from the army and marginalised insociety.THE POWER OF SUPERSTITIONMen wearing longyi are commonplace in Myanmar. But when Than Shwe and othersenior military figures showed up at a nationally televised ceremony in February 2011wearing decorative acheik, the female version of the sarong-like garment, eyebrowswere raised. A fashion faux pas? Not according to one Yangon-based astrologer quotedin Time who claimed the generals were indulging in yadaya: magic. The rumours go thatby wearing the women’s acheik, the generals were hoping either to fulfil a prophesy thata woman would one day rule Myanmar, or cancel out Suu Kyi’s feminine power.Superstitions run deep in Myanmar. Many people consult astrologers to find matesand plan events. According to Benedict Rogers, author of a biography of Than Shwe, theretired senior general has seven personal astrologers at his call, several of whom aretasked with focussing their darker arts on his chief nemesis, Aung San Suu Kyi.On a less dramatic level, Myanmar astrology, based on the Indian system of namingthe zodiacal planets for Hindu deities, continues to be an important factor in decidingproper dates for weddings, funerals, ordinations and other events. Burma became independentat 4.20am on 4 January 1948, per U Nu’s counsel with an astrologer.Numerology plays a similar role with both eight and nine being auspicious numbers.The Burmese word ko (nine) also means ‘to seek protection from the gods’. GeneralNe Win was fascinated with numerology, especially that relating to the cabalistic ritualPaya-kozu (Nine Gods). In 1987 he introduced 45-kyat and 90-kyat notes, because theirdigits’ sum equalled nine.

THE WATER FESTIVAL343Occurring at the height of the dry and hot season, around the middle of April, the threedayThingyan (Water Festival) starts the Myanmar New Year. As in Thailand’s Songkran,the event is celebrated in a most raucous manner – by throwing buckets of cold water atanyone who dares to venture into the streets. Foreigners are not exempt!On a spiritual level, Myanmar people believe that during this three-day period theking of the nat (spirit beings), Thagyamin, visits the human world to tally his annualrecord of the good deeds and misdeeds humans have performed. Villagers place flowersand sacred leaves in front of their homes to welcome the nat. Thagyamin’s departureon the morning of the third day marks the beginning of the new year, when properlybrought-up young people wash the hair of their elder kin, buddha images are ceremoniallywashed, and hpongyi (monks) are offered particularly appetising alms food.Although the true meaning of the festival is still kept alive by ceremonies such asthese, nowadays it’s mainly a festival of fun. In cities, temporary stages called pandal(from the Tamil pendel) are erected along main thoroughfares, with water barrels readyto douse all passersby; for more on the Thingyan see p 11 .RELIGION & BELIEFChristianityThe CIA World Fact Book says 4% of Myanmar's population are Christians.Anglican, Baptist and Catholic missionaries have been active inMyanmar for over 150 years. Going even further back there were communitiesof Christians among the Japanese who fled to Arakan (RakhaingState) in the 16th century and the Portuguese Catholics (and later Dutchand French mercenaries and prisoners of war) who arrived in the early17th century.Ethnic groups that traditionally practised animism have proved morereceptive to conversion to Christianity, especially the Kayin, Kachin andChin.Other ReligionsAmong the other religions encountered in Myanmar are Hinduism, practicedamong locals of Indian descent, the various traditional religions ofChinese immigrants down the ages, and animism among the small tribalgroups of the highlands.The Jewish community in pre-WWII Rangoon numbered around 2500and the city once had a Jewish mayor (as did Pathein). Burma was alsothe first Asian country to recognise Israel in 1949. However the militarycoup and its aftermath encouraged most to leave, and today Yangon hasonly about 25 Jews. Even so the city’s 19th-century Moseah Yeshua Synagogue(p 42 ) is beautifully maintained.Officially Myanmaris 1% animist,1.5% Hindu,4% Christian and4% Muslim; othersbelieve thatnon-Buddhistsmay accountfor 30% of thepopulation.

344BestBuddhistBuildings» ShwedagonPaya, Yangon» Ananda Pahto,Bagan» ShwenandawKyaung, Mandalay» ShwesandawPaya, Pyay» Shittaung Paya,Mrauk UArts &ArchitectureFor centuries the arts in Burma were sponsored by the royal courts,mainly through the construction of major religious buildings that requiredthe skills of architects, sculptors, painters and a variety of craftspeople.Such patronage was cut short during British colonial rule andhas never been a priority since independence.However, there are plenty of examples of traditional art to be viewedin Myanmar, mainly in the temples that are an ever-present feature oftown and countryside. The locals are just as likely as any other peopleto take time out to enjoy themselves at a puppet show, watch traditionaldances at festivals or catch up on the latest episode of their favouriteKorean soap opera on TV.ArchitectureIt is in architecture that one sees the strongest evidence of Myanmarartistic skill and accomplishment. Myanmar is a country of zedi, oftencalled ‘pagodas’ in English. Wherever you are – boating down the river,driving through the hills, even flying above the plains – there alwaysseems to be a hilltop zedi in view. Bagan is the most dramatic result ofthis fervour for religious monuments – an enthusiasm that continuestoday, as the mass rebuilding of temples at the site attests.Traditionally, only zedi, gu and pahto (see p 340 ) have been made ofpermanent materials. Until quite recently all secular buildings – andmost monasteries – were constructed of wood, so there are few old onesleft to be seen. Even the great royal palaces, such as the last one at Mandalay,were made of wood. No original ones remain and the reconstructionsare often far from faithful reproductions.Zedi StylesEarly zedi were usually hemispherical (the Kaunghmudaw at Sagaingnear Mandalay) or bulbous (the Bupaya in Bagan). The so-called Monstylepahto is a large cube with small windows and ground-level passageways;this type is also known as a gu or ku (from the Pali-Sanskritguha, meaning ‘cave’). The more modern style is much more graceful – acurvaceous lower bell merging into a soaring spire, such as the ShwedagonPaya in Yangon or the Uppatasanti Paya in Nay Pyi Taw.The overall Bamar concept is similar to that of the Mayan and Aztecpyramids of Mesoamerica: worshippers climb a symbolic mountain linedwith religious reliefs and frescoes.Style is not always a good indicator of the original age of a zedi, asMyanmar is earthquake-prone and many (including the Shwedagon) havebeen rebuilt again and again. In places such as Bagan and Inthein, nearInle Lake, ruined temples have been rebuilt from the base up with little

if no respect for the what the original would have looked like. In Bagan,for example, all zedi would have been traditionally covered with white orpainted stucco, not left as the bare brick structures they are today.345Other BuildingsAlthough so little remains of the old wooden architectural skills, thereare still many excellent wooden buildings to be seen. The people ofMyanmar continue to use teak with great skill, and a fine country homecan be a very pleasing structure indeed.While many buildings erected during the British colonial period havebeen demolished or are facing the wrecking ball, those that survive are oftenwell worth seeking out. They range from the rustic wood-and-plasterTudor villas of Pyin Oo Lwin to the thick-walled, brick-and-plaster, colonnadedmansions and shop houses of Yangon, Mawlamyine and Myeik.An interesting example of a fusion of Myanmar and European styles isthe City Hall building in Yangon. Until recently scant attention was paidto preserving colonial architecture – for political as well as economic reasons.In March 2011, The Irrawaddy reported that five major colonial-erabuildings in Yangon (the former Prime Minister’s Office, and the formerMinistries of Energy; Hotels and Tourism; Immigration and Population;and Commerce) would be preserved in an effort to attract more tourists.One Yangon colonial-era building that has already been nicely sprucedup through private donations and overseas grants is the Moseah YeshuaSynagogue.Sculpture & PaintingEarly Myanmar art was always a part of the religious architecture –paints were for the walls of temples, sculpture to be placed inside them.Many pieces, formerly in paya or kyaung, have been sold or stolen and,unfortunately, you’ll easily find more Myanmar religious sculpture forsale or on display overseas than in Myanmar.In the aftermath of the 1988 demonstrations, the government forbade‘selfish’ or ‘mad art’ that didn’t have clear pro-government themes. Oneartist, Sitt Nyein Aye, spent two months in custody for sketching theruins of the former student union, which Ne Win had blown up in 1962.Most contemporary Myanmar artists now play safe with predictabletourist-oriented works. The government’s posters – anti-AIDS, antidrugs,pro-traffic safety, or just pro-government! – are occasionally interestingpieces of propaganda artwork, but you shouldn't expect any of the SocialistRealist élan of the former Soviet Union, Vietnam or North Korea.Traditional CraftsApart from the following, other Myanmar crafts you may come acrossare paper parasols, silver and metalware, and wood carvings. For tips onshopping for traditional crafts, see p 27 .AmazingWoodStructures» ShwenandawKyaung, Mandalay» U Bein’s Bridge,Amarapura» Bagaya Kyaung,Inwa» YouqsonKyaung, Salay» PakhanngehKyaung, PakokkuOld MyanmarPaintings in theCollection of UWin is one of theillustrated publicationsof theThavibu Gallery(www.thavibu.com) specialisingin Burmese art.ARTS & ARCHITECTUREKammawa & ParabaikKammawa a (from the Pali kammavacha) are narrow, rectangular slatspainted with extracts from the Pali Vinaya (the Pitaka) concerned withmonastic discipline; specifically, extracts to do with clerical affairs. Thecore of a kammawa a page may be a thin slat of wood, lacquered cloth,thatched cane or thin brass, which is then layered with red, black andgold lacquer to form the script and decorations.The parabaik (Buddhist palm-leaf manuscript) is a similarly horizon-tal ‘book’, this time folded accordion-style, like a road map. The pagesare made of heavy paper covered with black ink on which the letters areengraved.The bronzeMahamuni Buddha,in Mandalay’sMahamuniPaya, may dateback to the 1stcentury AD and isMyanmar’s mostfamous Buddhistsculpture.

346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarecentres» Kyaukka, nearMonywa» Myinkaba,Bagan» New Bagan(Bagan Myothit),BaganBurmese Crafts:Past and Presentby Sylvia Fraser-Lu details thefoundationsof Myanmar’sartistic traditionsand cataloguesthe major craftsfrom metalworkto umbrellamaking.LacquerwareThe earliest lacquerware found in Myanmar can be dated to the 11thcentury and sported a very Chinese style. The techniques used today areknown as yun, the old Bamar word for the people of Chiang Mai, fromwhere the techniques were imported in the 16th century (along with somecaptured artisans) by King Bayinnaung. An older style of applying gold orsilver to a black background dates back to, perhaps, the Pyay era (5th to9th centuries) and is kept alive by artisans in Kyaukka, near Monywa.Many lacquerware shops include workshops, where you can see thelong-winded process involved in making the bowls, trays and other objects.The craftsperson first weaves a frame (the best-quality wares have abamboo frame tied together with horse or donkey hairs; lesser pieces aremade wholly from bamboo). The lacquer is then coated over the frameworkand allowed to dry. After several days it is sanded down with ashfrom rice husks and another coating of lacquer is applied. A high-qualityitem may have seven to 15 layers altogether.The lacquerware is engraved and painted, then polished to remove thepaint from everywhere except from within the engravings. Multicolouredlacquerware is produced by repeated engraving, painting and polishing.From start to finish it can take up to five or six months to produce a highqualitypiece of lacquerware, which may have as many as five colours. Atop-quality bowl can have its rim squeezed together until the sides meetwithout suffering any damage or permanent distortion.Tapestries & TextilesTapestries (kalaga) consist of pieces of coloured cloth of various sizesheavily embroidered with silver- or gold-coloured thread, metal sequinsand glass beads, and feature mythological Myanmar figures in paddedrelief. The greatest variety is found in Mandalay, where most tapestriesare produced.Good-quality kalaga a are tightly woven and don’t skimp on sequins,which may be sewn in overlapping lines, rather than spaced side by side,as a sign of embroidery skill. The metals used should shine, even in olderpieces; tarnishing means lower-quality materials.AUNG SOE MIN, YANGON GALLERY OWNERIs art in Myanmar different from elsewhere? Myanmar artists are still influenced bytraditional art. A main part of Burmese art is surrealistic ideas that have existed since along time ago. And because of the colours in Burma, the art has bright colours. Burmeseart has a lot of potential because we’ve been closed for a long time.How would you describe the art scene in Yangon? There’s no national art museum inBurma yet. But you can see works by famous artists such as U B Nyan and U Ngwe Gaingat the National Museum. There are also private galleries, such as Baikthano Gallery.Can artists survive only doing art, or do they have to take other jobs as well?Most artists can survive on their paintings, but many also do illustration and design forbooks, magazines and advertisements. Artists in other cities can depend on tourists tobuy art, but here we have to depend on locals.Are Myanmar artists exposed to much international art? Until 1962, artists in Myanmarwere in touch with the outside. But now we’ve been closed for a long time. But sinceabout 2003 we can see anything on the internet.Does art ever get political in Myanmar? Yes, a lot. People everywhere are always tryingto express themselves and they don’t care about the risk.Myanmar is a poor country; people have to worry about food, health, etc. Whenyou consider this, is art really important? Every human likes some sort of art. Evenvery poor people buy paintings from the street or frame ads or calendars at home.

Tribal textiles and weavings produced by the Chin, Naga, Kachin andKayin can also be very beautiful, especially antique pieces. Among traditionalhand-woven silk longyis, laun-taya acheik, woven on hundredspools, are the most prized.Dance & TheatreMyanmar’s truly indigenous dance forms are those that pay homage tothe nat (spirit being). Most classical dance styles, meanwhile, arrivedfrom Thailand. Today the dances most obviously taken from Thailandare known as yodaya zat (Ayuthaya theatre), as taught to the people ofMyanmar by Thai theatrical artists taken captive in the 18th century.The most Myanmar of dances feature solo performances by femaledancers who wear strikingly colourful dresses with long white trains,which they kick into the air with their heels – quite a feat, given therestrictive length of the train.An all-night zat pwe involves a re-creation of an ancient legend orBuddhist Jataka (life story of the Buddha), while the yamazat pick a talefrom the Indian epic Ramayana. In Mandalay, yamazat performers evenhave their own shrine.Myanmar classical dancing emphasises pose rather than movementand solo rather than ensemble performances. In contrast the less common,but livelier, yein pwe features singing and dancing performed by achorus or ensemble.Most popular of all is the a-nyeint pwe, a traditional pwe somewhatakin to early American vaudeville, the most famous exponents of whichare Mandalay’s Moustache Brothers.M arionette TheatreYouq-the pwe (Myanmar marionette theatre) presents colourful puppetsup to 3.5ft high in a spectacle that many aesthetes consider themost expressive of all the Myanmar arts. Developed during the Konbaungperiod, it was so influential that it became the forerunner tozat pwe as later performed by actors rather than marionettes. As withdance-drama, the genre’s ‘golden age’ began with the Mandalay kingdomsof the late 18th century and ran through to the advent of cinemain the 1930s.The people of Myanmar have great respect for an expert puppeteer.Some marionettes may be manipulated by a dozen or more strings. Themarionette master’s standard repertoire requires a troupe of 28 puppetsincluding Thagyamin (king of the gods); a Myanmar king, queen, princeand princess; a regent; two court pages; an old man and an old woman; avillain; a hermit; four ministers; two clowns; one good and one evil nat; aBrahmin astrologer; two ogres; a zawgyi (alchemist); a horse; a monkey;a makara a (mythical sea serpent); and an elephant.It’s rare to see marionette theatre outside tourist venues in Yangon,Mandalay or Bagan.MusicMuch of classical Myanmar music, played loud the way the nat like it,features strongly in any pwe. Its repetitive, even harsh, harmonies canbe hard on Western ears at first; Myanmar scales are not ‘tempered’, asWestern scales have been since Bach. Traditional Myanmar music is primarilytwo dimensional, in the sense that rhythm and melody providemuch of the musical structure, while repetition is a key element. Subtleshifts in rhythm and tonality provide the modulation usually supplied bythe harmonic dimension in Western music.Classicaldance-drama isperformed nightlyat Mandalay’sMintha Theaterand occasionallyat the NationalTheatre inYangon.The Illusion ofLife: BurmeseMarionettes byMa Thanegi givesreaders a glimpseof the ‘wit, spiritand style’ of thistraditional Burmeseperformanceart.347ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dancescholars havecataloguedaround 2000dance movements,including13 head movements,28 eyemovements, eightbody posturesand 10 walkingmovements.Classical MusicClassical music traditions were largely borrowed from Siam musicians inthe late 1800s, who borrowed the traditions from Cambodian conquestscenturies earlier. Myanmar classical music, as played today, was codifiedby Po Sein, a colonial-era musician, composer and drummer who alsodesigned the hsaing waing (the circle of tuned drums, also known aspaq waing) and formalised classical dancing styles. Such music is meantto be played as an accompaniment to classical dance-dramas that enactscenes from the Jataka or from the Ramayana.Musical instruments are predominantly percussive, but even the hsaingwaing may carry the melody. These drums are tuned by placing awad of paq-sa a (drum food) – made from a kneaded paste of rice andwood ash – onto the centre of the drum head, then adding or subtractinga pinch at a time till the desired drum tone is attained.In addition to the hsaing waing, the traditional hsaing (Myanmarensemble) of seven to 10 musicians will usually play: the kye waing (acircle of tuned brass gongs); the saung gauq (a boat-shaped harp with13 strings); the pattala a (a sort of xylophone); the hneh h (an oboe-type in-strument related to the Indian shanai); the pa-lwe (a bamboo flute); themi-gyaung g (crocodile lute); the paq-ma a (a bass drum); and the yagwin(small cymbals) and wa leq-hkouq q (bamboo clappers), which are purelyrhythmic and are often played by Myanmar vocalists.The beautifullypainted littleparasols you seearound Myanmarare often made inPathein – in factthey’re knownas Pathein hti(Patheinumbrellas).FolkOlder than Myanmar classical music is an enchanting vocal folk-musictradition still heard in rural areas where locals may sing without instrumentalaccompaniment while working. Such folk songs set the work cadenceand provide a distraction from the physical strain and monotonyof pounding rice, clearing fields, weaving and so on. This type of music ismost readily heard in the Ayeyarwady Delta between Twante and Pathein.Rock & RapWestern pop music’s influence first came in the 1970s, when singers suchas Min Min Latt and Takatho Tun Naung sang shocking things such asBeatles cover versions or ‘Tie a Yellow Ribbon Round the Old Oak Tree’.This led to long-haired, distorted-guitar rock bands such as Empire andIron Cross (aka IC) in the 1980s. Two decades later, no-one’s bigger thanIron Cross – try to see them live (you’re sure to see them on videotapeat teashops or on all-night buses). Another big band is Lazy Club whoplayed concerts in the US in 2009.Bands such as these (all of whom usually sing in Burmese, even ifthey have English names) have a stable of several singers who split stagetime with the same backing band. Iron Cross, for example, features oneof Myanmar’s ‘wilder’ singers, Lay Phyu, but it can also tone it down as aTRADITIONAL BURMESE MUSIC CDSThese music CDs can generally be found outside Myanmar:» Mahagitá Harp & Vocal Music from Burma (2003; Smithsonian Folkways)» Music of Nat Pwe: Folk & Pop Music of Myanmar (2007; Sublime Frequencies)» Pat Waing The Magic Drum Circle of Burma (1998; Shanachie)» U Ko Ko Performs on the Burmese Piano (1995; Ummus)» Various artists Burma: Traditional Music (2009; Air Mail Music)» White Elephants & Golden Ducks Enchanting Musical Treasures from Burma(1997; Shanachie)

CENSORING THE MUSIC349It’s not just journalists who can fall foul of government censors in Myanmar. Writers offiction, movie makers, performing and visual artists and singers all have to watch out,too. Back in 1988, popular singer Mun Awng, originally from Kachin, was forced into exileafter participating in anti-government demonstrations. His Battle for Peace album wasrecorded in Thailand in the 1990s and he contributed to For the Lady, a 2004 benefit CDin support of Aung San Suu Kyi that also includes tracks by U2 and the Indigo Girls.Rap band 9mm was briefly detained in 2004 for performing political songs writtenby an anonymous prodemocracy group of exiled and local rappers called MyanmarFuture Generations (MFG; www.mmfg.netfirms.com/index2.html).Sometimes the Big Brother tactics of the censors verge on the ridiculous. In 1998 bluessinger Nyi Pu had to rename his debut Everything’s Going to Be Good to Everything’s Good;a few years later, Iron Cross’ Myo Gyi changed his Very Wild Wind album to a tamer Breeze.And when censors wouldn’t go for a literal translation of Eminem’s lyric (‘shake that ass’) inSai Sai’s cover version in 2007, Sai Sai sang ‘shake that water pot’ (o lay, hloke pa ohn!).backing band for the poppier stuff of other singers. One local aficionadoexplains: ‘There’s no competition between a band’s many singers. Theyhelp each other. Our rock singers don’t throw TVs out the windows. Onstage they jump around and all, but offstage they’re very good-natured.’Female singers like Sone Thin Par and actor Htu Aeindra Bo (www.htunaeindrabo.com) win fans for their melodies – and looks – but themost interesting is rapper Phyu Phyu Kyaw Thein, a sort of ‘Sporty Spice’,who has fronted both Iron Cross and Lazy Club. Other rappers includeMin Min Latt’s son, Anega, now busting beats with other big-name rappersBarbu, Myo Kyawt Myaung and heart-throb Sai Sai. Songs oftendeal with gossip, or troubles between parents and kids. Thar Soe is apopular hip-hop singer whose 2007 hit ‘I Like Drums’ merged nat musicwith trance.Yangon is the best place to catch a show; look out for advertisementsin local publications and on billboards and leaflets.LiteratureReligious texts inscribed onto Myanmar’s famous kammawa a (lacqueredscriptures) and parabaik (folding manuscripts) were the first pieces ofliterature as such, and began appearing in the 12th century. Until the1800s, the only other works of ‘literature’ available were royal genealogies,classical poetry and law texts. A Burmese version of the Indian epicRamayana was first written in 1775 by poet U Aung Pyo.The first Myanmar novel Maung Yin Maung Ma Me Ma, an adaptationof The Count of Monte Cristo by James Hla Kyaw, was published in 1904.Eric Blair (aka George Orwell) worked in Myanmar from 1922 to 1927as a policeman, an experience that informed his novel Burmese Days,first published in 1934. Sharply critical of colonial life in the country, it isone of the few English-language books still widely available in Myanmar(unlike Orwell’s 1984 and Animal Farm, political works that are not tothe generals’ tastes).More recently, Myanmar-born Nu Nu Yi Inwa, one of the country’sleading writers with at least 15 novels and over 100 short stories to hername, made the shortlist for the 2007 Man Asian Literary Prize withSmile As They Bow. The story, set at the Taungbyon Festival held nearMandalay, follows an elder gay transvestite medium who fears losing hismuch younger partner to a woman in the heat of the week-long festivities.For other novels in English set in Myanmar see p 290 .AUNG SAN SUU KYIThe U2 song WalkOn from the 2001album All ThatYou Can’t LeaveBehind is aboutand dedicatedto Aung San SuuKyi.ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest film industry since the early 20th centuryand it continues today producing low-budget, uncontroversial actionpics, romances and comedies that are a staple of cinemas, village videoscreeninghalls and DVD sellers across the country. There’s even anannual Academy Awards ceremony that is one of the country’s biggestsocial events.You’ll need to look to film-makers outside Myanmar for movies anddocumentaries that tackle some of the country’s more controversial topics.Among recent documentaries available on video or doing the festivalrounds are Nic Dunlop’s Burma Soldier (www.breakthrufilms.org/burma-soldier/), the moving story of a military recruit, who loses two limbsto land mines and switches sides to become a democracy activist; RexBloomstein’s This Prison Where I Live (http://thisprisonwhereilive.co.ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMYANMAR’S SPORTING LIFEMartial arts are perhaps the longest-running sports that the people of Myanmar havepatronised: the oldest written references to kickboxing in the country are found in thechronicles of warfare between Burma and Thailand during the 15th and 16th centuries.The British introduced football (soccer) in the 19th century and it remains Myanmar’smost popular spectator sport.FootballThe 11-team Myanmar National League (http://myanmarnationalleague.com) waslaunched in 2009. A US embassy cable released by WikiLeaks revealed that SeniorGeneral Than Shwe had thought it would be politically more popular to instruct cronybusinesses to create this league rather than spend US$1 billion on buying ManchesterUnited, as his grandson had advised. Local TV broadcasts European games and teashopsare invariably packed when a big match is screened.Martial ArtsMyanma let-hwei (Myanmar kickboxing) is very similar in style to muay thai (Thai kickboxing),although not nearly as well developed as a national sport.The most common and traditional kickboxing venues are temporary rings set up ina dirt circle (usually at paya pwe rather than sports arenas). All fighters are bare-fisted.All surfaces of the body are considered fair targets and any part of the body except thehead may be used to strike an opponent. Common blows include high kicks to the neck,elbow thrusts to the face and head, knee hooks to the ribs and low crescent kicks to thecalf. Punching is considered the weakest of all blows and kicking merely a way to softenup one's opponent; knee and elbow strikes are decisive in most matches.Before the match begins, each boxer performs a dancelike ritual in the ring to payhomage to Buddha and to Khun Cho and Khun Tha, the nat whose domain includesMyanmar kickboxing. The winner repeats the ritual at the end of the match.ChinlonOften called 'cane ball' in Burmese English, chinlon are games in which a woven rattan ballabout 5in in diameter is kicked around. It also refers to the ball itself. Informally, any numberof players can form a circle and keep the chinlon airborne by kicking it soccer-stylefrom player to player; a lack of scoring makes it a favourite pastime with locals of all ages.In formal play six players stand in a circle of 22ft circumference. Each player mustkeep the ball aloft using a succession of 30 techniques and six surfaces on the foot andleg, allotting five minutes for each part. Each successful kick scores a point, while pointsare subtracted for using the wrong body part or dropping the ball.A popular variation – and the one used in intramural or international competitions –is played with a volleyball net, using all the same rules as in volleyball except that onlythe feet and head are permitted to touch the ball.

uk), which includes interviews conducted with the Burmese comicZargana in 2007 before he was sentenced to 35 years in jail for his politicalactivities; and the Oscar-nominated Burma VJ.Filmed in the summer of 2009, Altered Focus: Burma (www.hotknees.com/media/Altered_Focus.php) is a 19-minute documentary followingthree young British film-makers and skateboarders as they share their loveof skateboarding with local enthusiasts in Yangon and volunteer to teachEnglish at a school in Mandalay. There is politics here but it's great tosee something about people in Myanmar having some fun, as well as todiscover Yangon’s skate park just opposite the national football stadium.John Boorman’s Beyond Rangoon, a political tract/action flick set duringthe 1988 uprisings, had Georgetown, Penang, do a credible turn asthe nation’s then-turbulent capital. It starred several Myanmar actors,including Aung Ko, who plays an elderly guide to Patricia Arquette’sAmerican tourist galvanised into political activist. Another Myanmar actor,Win Min Than, was cast opposite Gregory Peck in 1954’s The PurplePlain, the most credible of several WWII dramas set in Myanmar.Fighting more recent wars is Sylvester Stallone who returned to oneof his most famous roles in Rambo (2008). This time Vietnam Vet JohnRambo takes on the Tatmadaw, a whole platoon of which he mows downat the movie’s climax with a jeep-mounted machine gun!It’s a cert that no such dramatics will be part of Luc Bresson’s TheLady, in production during the research period of this book. The documentaryLady of No Fear, directed by Anne Gyrithe Bonne, also focuseson Aung San Suu Kyi. For more about both productions, see p 352 .Myanmar’s lack of copyright laws means those same DVD sellers willhappily offer you the latest Hollywood or overseas product; during our2011 visit all the Oscar nominees and more were available.The inauguralBurmese ArtsFestival (http://burmeseartsfestival.com), held inLondon in 2010,featured manycontemporaryartists, includingthe BurmeseTheatre Workshopand formerpolitical prisonHtein Lin.351ARTS & ARCHITECTURE

352According to localcustom, AungSan Suu Kyi’sname, like thatof all Burmese,should be spelledout in full. It’salso commonlypreceded by thehonorific titleDaw. Through thischapter we followthe internationalconvention ofshortening hername to Suu Kyi.Aung San Suu KyiSince her release from house arrest in November 2010, Aung San SuuKyi has been busy. She has been on the cover of Time and been profiledin countless other publications; met with ambassadors and addressedglobal movers and shakers at Davos (www.tinyurl.com/5wfxzbn); andeven guest-directed the 2011 Brighton Arts Festival (www.brightonfestival.org) in the UK. The Lady – as she is known as in Myanmar and by hermillions of supporters around the world – appears as poised, eloquentand media-savvy as any politician in the digital age.The daughter of a national hero, Aung San (see p 299 ), the 66-year-oldNobel Peace Prize winner has spent 15 out of the 21 years since 1989 shutaway from the public as a prisoner of conscience. At the time of research,while at liberty in Yangon, she is highly unlikely to leave the country,since the current regime would certainly not allow her to return.Before circumstances thrust her onto the global stage in 1988, SuuKyi was primarily a wife, mother and academic. In 1990 the NationalLeague for Democracy (NLD), the party that she continues to lead, wonthe general election by a landslide, yet was denied power by a militaryjunta that before, and ever since, has sought to demonise, imprison andsideline Suu Kyi. She is easily the most famous Burmese person alive andhas been compared to Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi for herAUNG SAN SUU KYI: BOOKS, MOVIES & THE INTERNETThere are many sources of information on Aung San Suu Kyi. On the internet there arethe Daw Aung San Suu Kyi Pages (www.dassk.org) and the site of the NLD (www.nldburma.org).Suu Kyi’s interviews in 1995 and 1996 with journalist and former Buddhist monk AlanClements, described in The Voice of Hope (1997), often intermingle politics and Buddhism;it’s available as an audio book from www.useyourliberty.org.Freedom from Fear (1991) is a collection of Suu Kyi’s writings and those of supporterson topics ranging from her father to the Nobel Prize acceptance speech delivered by herson Alexander. Letters from Burma (1997) features a year’s worth of weekly essays SuuKyi wrote on Burmese culture, politics and incidents from her daily life for the Japanesenewspaper Mainichi Shimbun.The best biography of several is Justin Wintle’s The Perfect Hostage (2007), an impressivelyresearched account of her life and times, and of modern Burmese history,which paints a very believable, likeable ‘warts and all’ portrait of Suu Kyi.On the cinematic front, Luc Bresson’s The Lady is a bio-pic released in 2011 basedon Suu Kyi’s life between 1988 and 1999 when her husband Michael Aris died; it starsMalaysian actress Michelle Yeo as Suu Kyi.Covering similar ground, but in documentary format, is Lady of No Fear, directed byAnne Gyrithe Bonne, which was finished before Suu Kyi’s release in 2010 and includesinterviews with close friends and colleagues about the famously private woman.

patient, nonviolent activism. She embodies what thepeople of Myanmar call awza a – charisma and powerfulmoral authority.Family & InfluencesAung San Suu Kyi was born just two years before the assassinationin July 1947 of her father, Aung San, leaderof the Burma Independence Army and the key architectof the country’s independence. Aung San had met SuuKyi’s mother, Ma Khin Kyi, a nurse, while recuperatingfrom malaria in Rangoon General Hospital in 1942.Her father’s premature death was not the only familytragedy: in 1953 Suu Kyi’s elder brother Lin drownedaccidentally at the age of eight (there was also an eldersister Chit, but she had died when only a few days oldin 1946, a year before Suu Kyi’s birth). Later, Suu Kyiwould become estranged from her eldest brother AungSan Oo, an engineer who emigrated to the US; in 2001he unsuccessfully tried to sue her for a share of theirmother’s home – 54 University Ave, Yangon, where SuuKyi has spent the many years of her house arrest.Her parents’ political activism and example of publicservice had an enormous influence on Suu Kyi. ‘When Ihonour my father, I honour all those who stand for thepolitical integrity of Burma’, she writes in the dedicationto her book Freedom from Fear. In the essay MyFather, she says he was ‘a man who put the interests ofthe country before his own needs’ – something Suu Kyihas also done.Suu Kyi’s mother was also a prominent public figurein newly independent Burma, heading up social planningand policy bodies, and briefly acting as an MP,before being appointed the country’s ambassador toIndia in 1960. Suu Kyi finished her schooling in NewDehli, then moved to the UK in 1964 to study at OxfordUniversity. It was in London at the home of Lord GoreBooth, a former ambassador to Burma, and his wifethat Suu Kyi met history student Michael Aris.Beautiful Love StoryLuc Bresson, director of the biopic The Lady, callsSuu Kyi and Aris’s courtship and marriage ‘probablythe most beautiful love story I’ve heard since Romeoand Juliet.’ When Aris went to Bhutan in the late ’60sto work as a tutor to the royal family and continue hisresearch, Suu Kyi was in New York, working at the UN;they corresponded by post. After their marriage on 1January 1972 in London, Suu Kyi joined him Bhutan.Five years later they were back in Oxford, Aris teachingat the university, Suu Kyi a mother to two boys – Alexanderand Kim.From that period, her friend Anna Pasternak Slaterremembers, in the essay she contributes to Freedomfrom Fear, the future leader of Burma’s democracymovement as a thrifty housewife, ‘laboriously pedallingback from town, laden down with sagging plastic bagsand panniers heavy with cheap fruit and vegetables’ or‘running up elegant cut-price clothes’ on her sewingAUNG SAN SUUKYI TIMELINE19 June 1945A baby girl is born in Yangon andnamed after her father (AungSan), paternal grandmother(Suu) and mother (Khin Kyi); thename means ‘a bright collectionof strange victories’.1960Daw Khin Kyi is appointedBurma’s ambassador to India.Suu Kyi accompanies hermother to New Delhi, whereshe continues her schooling.1964Moves to the UK to study atOxford University. Meets futurehusband, Tibetan scholarMichael Aris, at London homeof her ‘British parents’ LordGore Booth and his wife.1967Graduates with a third-classdegree in politics, philosophyand economics. Daw Khin Kyiretires to Yangon.1969–71Moves to New York forpostgraduate studies, but endsup working for the UN alongsidefamily friend and ‘emergencyaunt’ Ma Than E and Secretary-General U Thant.1972Marries Aris and joins him inBhutan, where he is tutoringthe royal family. Suu works asresearch offi cer in Bhutan’sRoyal Ministry of ForeignAff airs.1973–77The couple return to the UKfor the birth of their firstson, Alexander. They take upresidence in Oxford, wheretheir second son, Kim, is bornin 1977.353AUNG SAN SUU KYI

354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Historian and author Thant Myint-U also recalls dropping bythe Aris’ home in 1984: ‘Michael sat contentedly and quietly smokinghis pipe, their kids playing in the room nearby’ while Suu Kyi gave him‘polite and somewhat schoolmarmish’ advice on his educational options.‘In later years’, he writes, ‘I felt I had a sense of the happy life both sheand Michael had given up.’Pasternak Slater, like many others since, recognised Suu Kyi’s ‘courage,determination and abiding moral strength’, qualities that were alreadyin evidence in some of the 187 letters Suu Kyi wrote to Aris in the eightmonths before their marriage. In one she asks ‘…that should my peopleneed me, you would help me do my duty by them.’ That moment came inMarch 1988. Suu Kyi’s mother had suffered a stroke.Return to BurmaSuu Kyi immediately packed her bags to return to Yangon (Rangoon),and Aris had ‘a premonition that our lives would change would for ever’.Meanwhile there was growing turmoil in Burma as students and otherstook to the streets calling for a change of government. Back in Yangon,where injured protestors were brought to the same hospital her motherwas in, it was something Suu Kyi could not ignore, especially when politicalactivists flocked to her mother’s home on Inya Lake to seek hersupport.IN HER OWN WORDSOn 28 December 2010, Austin Bush, co-author of this guide, interviewed Aung San SuuKyi by phone.We’ve decided to use both names for our book, but which do you prefer, Myanmaror Burma? I prefer Burma because the name was changed without any reference to thewill of the people.You were previously opposed to foreign tourists visiting Myanmar, but appearto have softened this stance over the last few years. How do you feel now aboutforeign tourists visiting Myanmar? I think the NLD came to this decision about six orseven months ago. We are not in favour of group tourists, but don’t mind if individualscome to Burma. Foreign tourists could benefit Burma if they go about it in the right way,by using facilities that help ordinary people and avoiding facilities that have close linksto the government.Can foreign tourists do anything to benefit the move towards democracy inMyanmar? If they would like to meet people working for democracy, then it might help.Why are there so many areas restricted to tourists in Myanmar? Do you think thiswill change in the near future? I’m not quite sure. Along the border areas, it’s becausehostilities might break out again. It might have something to do with the fact that therearen’t enough facilities for tourists in remote areas.To many visitors, Yangon can appear as if it’s caught in a time warp. In your experienceas someone who grew up there, how has the city changed over the years? Ihaven’t noticed any great changes since I’ve been under house arrest. The changes I’venoticed are that there are many people using handphones, which I hadn’t seen sevenyears ago. But the streets and buildings appear the same.The museum dedicated to your father, located in his former home, appears to beclosed. Do you know why? I don’t think they want to encourage people to go there. Theydon’t want to remind people too much of my father. Officially they haven’t allowed portraitsof my father to be hung in government offices over the last decade, probably because ofthe association with me and also because of how my father regarded the role of the army.What’s your favourite part of the city? It’s been a long time since I’ve been able toexplore Yangon. Shwedagon is very important, and the Sule Pagoda, but I spend muchof my time at the NLD office.

It was at this point, as the street demonstrations continuedto mount, that Suu Kyi decided to join the movementfor democracy. Her speech at Shwedagon Paya on26 August 1988, with her husband and sons by her side,electrified the estimated crowd of half a million, and sentripples of excitement and hope throughout the country.Elegantly attired, the trademark flowers in her hair, the43-year-old Suu Kyi brought a hitherto-unseen sophisticationto Myanmar politics as she launched what shecalled ‘the second struggle for national independence’.The brutal reaction of the military brought the proteststo an end a month later.Braving the GeneralsSuu Kyi, however, was just getting started, and in September1988 she joined several former generals and seniorarmy officers (including Tin Oo, army chief of staff in the1970s, who had been jailed for his role in an abortive coupin 1975) to form the NLD. As the party’s general secretary,she travelled around the country attending rallies.Her assistant at the time, Win Htein, a former armycaptain, recalls how she had ‘a real ability to connect tothe people’, while a diplomat quoted in the New YorkTimes said her very name was ‘magic’ among the public.In April 1989, while campaigning in the town ofDanubyu, she came up against soldiers who threatenedto shoot her and her supporters; with great courage shecontinued to move forward and calmly asked that theybe allowed to pass. Only at the last minute did a seniorofficer step in and order the men to lower their guns(it’s a scene reimagined in the movie Beyond Rangoon).In July 1989 Aung San Suu Kyi, who by now had becomethe NLD’s primary spokesperson, was placed underhouse arrest for publicly expressing doubt about thejunta’s intentions of handing over power to a civilian government,and for her plans to lead a march in Yangon tocelebrate Martyr’s Day. Her status as Aung San’s daughtersaved her from the fate of many other NLD members,who were imprisoned in the country’s notorious jails.With her husband and sons by her side, Suu Kyi wenton a hunger strike for 12 days to gain an assurance thather jailed supporters would not be tortured. None ofthis stopped the NLD from decisively winning the generalelection of May 1990.A Prisoner of ConscienceAris left Yangon with their sons on 2 September 1989.Suu Kyi would see either Alexander or Kim for over twoand a half years. Her husband was allowed to spend onemore fortnight with her over Christmas in 1989, a timehe described as ‘among the happiest memories of ourmany years of marriage’.At any moment during her years of arrest, Suu Kyiknew that the authorities would let her walk free toboard a flight to return to her family in the UK. Butonce she left Burma she knew she would never be allowedto return, and she would not accept permanentexile. It was a sacrifice in which her family supported1985–87At Kyoto University, Suu Kyiresearches her father’s timein Japan; she also registers atLondon’s School of Oriental andAfrican Studies for a doctoratein Burmese literature.1988Returns to Yangon in Marchto care for her mother,who has suffered a stroke;in September becomessecretary-general of NationalLeague for Democracy (NLD).1989At her mother’s funeral inJanuary she swears to servethe people of Burma until herdeath. Stands for election inFebruary; placed under housearrest in July.1991Wins Nobel Peace Prize;sons accept it on her behalf.Pledges she will use $1.3million prize money toestablish health and educationtrust for Burmese people.1995Released from house arrest,resumes campaigning for theNLD, but her movements arerestricted. At year’s end shesees Aris for what will be thefi nal time.1996In November her motorcadeis attacked in Yangon, thewindows of the car she istravelling in is smashed bya mob; despite presenceof security forces no one isarrested.1999Suffering terminal prostatecancer, Aris is refused entryto Burma and dies in the UK.After his funeral, sons Kim andAlexander are allowed to visittheir mother briefl y.355AUNG SAN SUU KYI

356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor an example of how a visitor’s actions, well-meaning or otherwise, can affect a localin Myanmar, you need look no further than John Yettaw’s unauthorised meeting withAung San Suu Kyi. On 3 May 2009, the 53-year-old Vietnam vet, retired bus driver andMormon strapped on homemade flippers and paddled his way across Inya Lake to thedemocracy leader’s home; he had attempted a meeting the year before, but had beenblocked that time by her two housekeepers. This time, however, Suu Kyi took pity on theexhausted American and allowed him to stay, even though she knew such a visit violatedthe terms of her house arrest.Speaking to a reporter for the New Yorker in 2010, she said ‘I felt I could not hand overanybody to be arrested by the authorities when so many of our people had been arrestedand not been given a fair hearing.’ When he left two days later, Yettaw was fishedout the lake by government agents. Following a trial, he was sentenced to seven yearsin prison, only to be released a few days later to return to the US. Aung San Suu Kyi andher two housekeepers, meanwhile, were sentenced to three years of hard labour, commutedto 18 months of house arrest – sufficient to keep the NLD leader out of the wayduring the 2010 elections.her, acting as her proxies to accept from the European Parliament inJanuary 1991 the Sakharov Prize for freedom of thought, and the NobelPeace Prize in October of the same year.As the international honours stacked up (the Simón Bolivar Prize fromUnesco in June 1992; the Jawaharlal Nehru Award for International Understandingin May 1995), Suu Kyi maintained her strength and spiritsby meditating, reading (in Letters from Burma she writes how she lovesnothing more than relaxing over a detective story), exercising, practicingpiano, and listening to news on the radio. From May 1992 until January1995 she was also permitted regular visits from her husband and sons.Five Years of FreedomMuch to the joy of her supporters at home and abroad, as well as herfamily, the government released Suu Kyi from house arrest in July 1995.She was allowed to travel outside Yangon with permission, which wasrarely granted. During her subsequent five years of freedom, she wouldtest the authorities several times with varying degrees of success.The last time she would see her husband was in January 1996. A yearlater he was diagnosed with prostate cancer, which would prove to beterminal. Despite appeals from the likes of Pope John Paul II and UNSecretary General Kofi Anan, the generals refused to allow Aris a visa tovisit his wife, saying that Suu Kyi was free to leave the country to tend tohim. Aris died in an Oxford hospital on 27 March 1999, his 53rd birthday;over the telephone he had insisted Suu Kyi remain in Burma where manypolitical prisoners and their families also relied on her support.The following decade was marked by more extended periods of housearrest punctuated by shorter spells of freedom. A couple of intercessionsby UN special envoys resulted in talks with military leaders and the releaseof hundreds of political prisoners, but no real progress on the politicalfront – nor release for the woman who had become the world’s mostfamous prisoner of conscience.Run-Up to Elections & ReleaseOn 22 September 2007, at the height of the failed ‘Saffron Revolution’(p 304 ), the barricades briefly came down along University Ave, allowingthe protestors to pass Aung San Suu Kyi’s house. In a powerful scene, laterrecounted by eyewitnesses and captured on mobile-phone footage, the

jailed NLD leader was briefly glimpsed at the gate of hercompound, tears in her eyes, silently accepting the blessingof the monks.A couple of meetings with a UN envoy, Ibrahim Gambari,and members of the military later that year failedto result in Suu Kyi’s release. Her house arrest was extendeda year in 2008 and then by a further 18 monthsin August 2009 following her encounter with John Yettaw(see box, p 356 ).With the 2010 election in the bag, the regime finallysaw fit to release her, announcing in the New Light ofMyanmar that she had been pardoned for ‘good con-duct’. Suu Kyi mocks the government’s English languagemouthpiece as the ‘The New Blight of Myanmar’,so it’s a fair assumption she didn’t take too seriouslythe same paper’s insistence, a few months later, thatshe and her supporters would come to a ‘tragic end’ fortheir continued calls for sanctions and a ‘second PanglongConference’ to discuss ethnic issues.An Unpredictable FutureEmerging from house arrest in November 2010, SuuKyi addressed a jubilant crowd. ‘I’m going to work fornational reconciliation. That is a very important thing’,she said, adding, ‘There is nobody I cannot talk to. I amprepared to talk with anyone. I have no personal grudgetoward anybody.’Initially, Suu Kyi’s offer fell on deaf ears. However, inAugust 2011, the regime began to take a more conciliatoryapproach. At the time of writing there have beentwo rounds of talks between Suu Kyi and a governmentminister in which both sides agreed ‘to cooperate onnational stability and development’. Also, for the firsttime since 2003, the NLD leader has been allowed totravel out of Yangon on political business. On a trip toBago, thousands of well-wishers lined the streets, andin the nearby town of Tha Nat Pin, where she opened alibrary, Suu Kyi told the assembled crowd ‘We can developthis country only when we all work together.’‘It’s still not very clear still what her role is goingto be’, says Thant Myint-U, commenting on the muchmore complex nature of Myanmar politics today versusthe united opposition that existed back in the 1990s.Aung Zaw, editor of the Irrawaddy, sums up the situationwhen he says that Suu Kyi ‘steps into the fray ata time when the NLD requires fresh ideas and strongleadership’. Conscious of this, Suu Kyi has repeatedlyreached out to, and mentioned the work of, youngerNLD and democracy supporters in the many interviewsand speeches she has given since her release.How long will Aung San Suu Kyi remain at large?Nobody knows, least of all Suu Kyi herself. ‘I want to doas much as I can while I’m free’, she said in a January2011 interview with Time. Over two decades since shemounted that podium at Shwedagon Paya, and despiteeverything she has undergone since, the Lady’s determinationto fight for democracy and freedom for thepeople of Myanmar appears undiminished.2000Begins second period of housearrest in September; a monthlater starts secret talks withthe junta, facilitated by UNspecial envoy Rizali Ismail.2002Released in May; returns tocampaigning around Yangonand in late June makes atriumphant visit to Mandalay,her fi rst trip to Myanmar’ssecond-largest city since 1989.2003In May, while touring northernMyanmar, Suu Kyi and 250NLD members are attackedby a pro-junta mob; at least70 people are killed. Anotherperiod of house arrest follows.2007In September she makes afl eeting appearance, greetingprotesting monks at her gate.In October a meeting withUN envoy Ibrahim Gambari isfollowed by talks with NLD andregime reps.2008Suu Kyi’s detention isextended for another year inMay despite this contraveningMyanmar’s law requiring aperson to be put on trial orreleased within a fi ve-yearperiod.2010Released on 13 November, sixdays after the general election;10 days later, is reunited withson Kim, who brings her apuppy as a present.2011Suu Kyi gives the prestigiousReith Lectures on BBCRadio (www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0126d29) andjourneys to Bagan with herson Kim, her fi rst time out ofYangon in eight years.357AUNG SAN SUU KYI

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SurvivalGuideDIRECTORY A–Z . . . 360Accommodation . . . . . . . . .360Business Hours . . . . . . . . .360Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360Climate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361Customs Regulations . . . . 362Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Embassies &Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Gay & LesbianTravellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Internet Access . . . . . . . . . 363Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . . 363Maps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Public Holidays . . . . . . . . . . 365Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368Tourist Information . . . . . . 368Travellers withDisabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Visas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Volunteering . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Women Travellers . . . . . . . 370Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377Car & Motorcycle . . . . . . . . 378Hitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379Local Transport . . . . . . . . . 379Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381HEALTH . . . . . . . . . . .383LANGUAGE . . . . . . . .387TRANSPORT . . . . . . . 371GETTING THERE &AWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Entering the Country. . . . . 371Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371GETTING AROUND . . . . . . 372

360DirectoryA–ZAccommodationMyanmar has hundredsof privately run hotels andguesthouses licensed toaccept foreigners. To get thelicence they supposedly mustkeep at least five rooms andreach a certain standard. Infact many are simple familyrunguesthouses or minihotels,sometimes with just amosquito net, a fan that turnsoff at midnight (when thegenerator does) and a coldshower down the hall.In key destinations (egYangon, Bagan, Inle Lake,Mandalay, Ngapali Beach),you’ll find high-end affairswith bungalow-stylerooms, swimming pools,tennis courts and fancyrestaurants. In between (butcloser to budget in quality)are modern, hit-or-missChinese-style hotels thatfollow familiar templates:BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINEtiled rooms with air-con, arefrigerator and a privatebathroom with hot water.Nearly all accommodationchoices include breakfast intheir rates. Staff at most canalso change money, arrangelaundry service (starting atK1000 per load at budgetguesthouses), rent bikes,arrange taxis, sell transporttickets and find you localEnglish-speaking guides.At night, all hotels andother accommodation optionsmust fill in police formson behalf of all guests, whichinclude the details of yourpassport and visa. Hotelswill not have to keep yourpassport.PricesHotels and guesthousesquote prices in US dollars.Typically you can pay in kyattoo, but at an unfavourableexchange rate, so it’s worthkeeping dollars ready forFor more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planetauthors, check out hotels.lonelyplanet .com/ Myanmar .You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendationson the best places to stay. Best of all, you canbook online.accommodation expenses.Prices quoted at budget andmidrange hotels include alltaxes; top-end hotel pricesoften don’t include up to20% in taxes and servicecharges. A handful of topendhotels in Myanmar acceptcredit cards. There arelower rates or it’s possibleto bargain a little at mosthotels during the low season(March to October).Listings in this book areordered by author preferenceand divided into three groupswith regard to price:» Budget ($) Doubles under$20 (under about K17,000)» Midrange ($$) Doubles$20 to $60 (about K17,000to K51,000)» Top End ($$$) Doublesover $60 (over aboutK51,000).Business HoursGovernment offices , includingpost offices andtelephone centres, are openMonday to Friday 9.30am to4.30pm. Shops open Mondayto Saturday from 9.30amto 6pm or later (sometimesonly half-day Saturday).Restaurants open 8am to9pm, while internet cafesopen noon to 10pm. In thisbook we spell out openinghours where they differ fromthose above.ChildrenTravelling with childrenin Myanmar can be veryrewarding as long as youcome well prepared with theright attitude, the physicalrequirements and the usualparental patience. LonelyPlanet’s Travel with Childrencontains useful advice onhow to cope with kids on theroad. Special attention ispaid to travel in developingcountries.People in Myanmar lovechildren and in many instanceswill shower attention onyour offspring, who will findready playmates among their

PRACTICALITIES» Connect (when it’s working) to the electricity supply(230V, 50Hz AC). Many hotels have generators (somerun at night only). Local power sources in many townsare scheduled for night hours only.» Read the English-language newspaper MyanmarTimes, which offers some useful travel and entertainmentinformation, and the government mouthpieceNew Light of Myanmar.» Bring a short wave radio and listen, like many locals,to BBC and VOA broadcasts.» Watch satellite TV rather than the state controlledbroadcast channels – you’ll often find CNN, BBCWorld and other news and entertainment channels athotels.» Petrol is sold by the gallon; distances are in miles,not kilometres; 1 Burmese viss or 100 tical = 3.5lb; 1gaig = 36in.local counterparts. It may,however, be confusing forsome children seeing younglocals working at restaurantsand teahouses.Practicalities» Due to Myanmar’s overalllow level of public sanitation,parents ought to lay downa few ground rules withregard to maintaining theirchildren’s health – such asregular hand-washing – tohead off potential medicalproblems.» Children should especiallybe warned not to play withanimals they encounter, as aprecaution against rabies.» Nappies (diapers) are hardto come by outside Yangon,and it’s wise to bring all thenappies or formula you’llneed for the trip from home.» Most high-end hotels andrestaurants will have highchairsavailable.» When travelling withchildren, it may be morecomfortable getting about byprivate car (p 378 ).Sights & Activities» Kids often get a thrill fromlittle things such as rides ontrishaws and in horse carts.Inle Lake boasts trips in dugoutcanoes, and the ancientcities outside Mandalay alsooffer fun, brief boat trips.» Big Buddhist sights andancient ruins can make forgood learning experiences,including Yangon’s ShwedagonPaya, the recliningbuddhas in Bago, or the10-storey buddha in Pyay.You can climb into the backof the lacquered buddhaimage at Nan Paya in Salay.ClimateMandalay°C/°F Temp40/10430/8620/6810/500/32JYangon°C/°F Temp40/10430/8620/6810/500/32JFFMMAAMMJJ» Some kids might dig ruinsof old palace walls and moats,which you can see at placeslike Bagan and Mrauk U.» Indulge in some face paintingby trying on thanakha(yellow sandalwood-likepaste), which is sold andapplied from sidewalk standsaround the country.» There are zoos in Yangon,Nay Pyi Taw and Mandalayas well as excellent birdwatchingat the MoeyungyiWetlands near Bago.» Traditional puppet showsare performed in Yangon,Bagan and Mandalay as wellas other places.» The beaches at Ngapali,Chaung Tha and NgweSaung are all sure to bewinners with kids wanting tosplash in the sea and play onthe sand.» Myanmar’s festivals, suchas Thingyan in mid-April withits throwing of water, andTaunggyi’s fire-balloon festivalin October or November,can be a lot of fun.» Consider asking about alocal orphanage – there aremany – so your children canplay with kids their own age.The local kids would love it.JJAASSOORainfall inches/mmNNDD12/3008/2004/1000Rainfall inches/mm12/3008/2004/1000361DIRECTORY A–Z CLIMATE

362DIRECTORY A–ZCustomsRegulationsFor the vast majority of visitors,clearing customs is abreeze, but it’s important tobe aware of the restrictions.Any foreign currency in excessof $2000 is supposedto be declared upon entry.Besides personal effects,visitors are permitted tobring duty free:» 400 cigarettes» 100 cigars» 250g of tobacco» 0.5L of perfume.It’s not a problem to bringa camera, video camera,laptop or mobile phone. Youcannot bring in antiques,pornographic materials ornarcotic drugs (obviously).Export RestrictionsThe following items cannotlegally be taken out of thecountry:» prehistoric implementsand artefacts» fossils» old coins» bronze or brass weights(including opium weights)» bronze or clay pipes» kammawa or parabaik» inscribed stones» inscribed gold or silver» historical documents» religious images» sculptures or carvingsin bronze, stone, stucco orwood» frescoes (even fragments)» pottery» national regalia andparaphernalia.Technically you have to showapproval from various governmentagencies to bringout books, videos or DVDs,though this is very unlikely tobe enforced.E le c t r ic it y.230V/50Hz230V/50HzPower outages occur everywhere,Yangon and Mandalayincluded. Many smaller townshave short scheduled periodsfor electricity, usually a fewhours in the afternoon andevening (power always seemsto be available if Myanmar TVis airing a premiership soccergame!). Many hotels andshops run generators 24hours, others keep them ononly a few hours (eg 6pm tomidnight, and a few hours inthe morning)Embassies &ConsulatesThe generals moved thecapital from Yangon to NayPyi Taw in 2005, but foreignembassies and consulatesstayed behind in Yangon.Check the government’sMinistry of Foreign Affairs(www.mofa.gov.mm) for moreinformation.Australia (%01-251 810,01-251 809; fax 01-246 159; 88Strand Rd)Bangladesh (%01-515 275;11B Than Lwin Rd, Kamayut)Cambodia (%01-549 609; 25New University Ave Rd, B3/4B)Canada Affairs handled byAustralian embassy or Canadianembassy in Bangkok(%+66 (0)2 636 0540)China (%01-221 281; 1 PyidaungsuYeiktha Rd, Dagon)France (%01-212 178; fax01-212 527; 102 PyidaungsuYeiktha Rd, Dagon)Germany (%01-548 951; fax01-548 899; 9 Bogyoke AungSan Museum Rd)India (%01-243 972, 01-391219; 545-547 Merchant St)Indonesia (%01-254 465,01-254 469; 100 PyidaungsuYeiktha Rd)Israel (%01-515 155; fax 01-515 116; 15 Kabaung Rd, HlaingTownship)Italy (%01-527 100; 3 InyaMyaing Rd)Japan (%01-549 644; 100 NatMauk Rd)Korea (%01-510 205; 97University Ave Rd, Bahan)Laos (%01-222 482; A1 DiplomaticQuarters, Taw Win St)Malaysia (%01-220 249; 82Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)Nepal (%01-545 880; fax 01-549 803; 16 Nat Mauk Rd)Netherlands Affairs handledby German embassy or Neth-

erlands embassy in Bangkok(%+66 (0)2 309 5200)New Zealand Affairs handledby UK embassyPakistan (%01-222 881; 4APyay Rd)Philippines (%01-558 149;50 Sayasan St)Singapore (%01-559 001;238 Dhama Zedi Rd)Sri Lanka (%01-222 812; 34Taw Win St)Thailand (%01-226 721; 94Pyay Rd, Dagon)UK (%01-256 438, 01-370 863;fax 01-380 322; 80 Strand Rd)USA (%01-536 509, 01-535756; fax 01-650 306; 110University Ave, Kamayut)Vietnam (%01-511 305; 72Than Lwin Rd, Bahan)Gay & LesbianTravellersHomosexuality has anambiguous legal status inMyanmar. Under a section ofthe Penal Code of 1882–88,‘carnal intercourse againstnature’ is punishable withimprisonment of up to 10years. While this law is rarelyenforced, it renders gays andlesbians vulnerable to policeharassment. This said, a localwoman walking with a foreignman will raise more eyebrowsthan two same-sex travellerssharing a room.Gay and transgenderedpeople in Myanmar are rarely‘out’, except for ‘third sex’spirit mediums who channelthe energies of nat spirits(see p 341 ). As elsewhere,it can be seen as a bit of acultural taboo, though mostof Myanmar’s ethnic groupsare known to be tolerant ofhomosexuality, both maleand female. Some Buddhists,however, believethat those who committedsexual misconducts (suchas adultery) in a previous lifebecome gay or lesbian in thisone. Muslim and ChristianMyanmar communities mayobject to homosexualitybut, as they form relativelysmall minorities, they rarelyfoist their perspectives onpeople of other faiths. Publicdisplays of affection, whetherheterosexual or homosexual,are frowned upon.Check Utopia-Asia (www.utopia-asia.com) for someYangon scene reports; italso publishes a gay guideto Southeast Asia, includingMyanmar.A few foreign travel agenciesspecialise in ‘gay tours’ –meaning a standard tour onwhich gay or lesbian travellerscan feel comfortablethey’ll check into gay-friendlyhotels. (Many of the guidesare openly gay, too.) Agencieswith trips to Myanmarinclude Purple Dragon(www.purpledrag.com) andMandalay Travel (www.mandalaytravel.com).InsuranceA travel- insurance policy isa very wise idea, though notall companies cover travelto Myanmar. There is a widevariety of policies and yourtravel agent will haverecommendations.Worldwide travel insuranceis available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.You can buy, extend andclaim online anytime – even ifyou’re already on the road.Internet AccessGetting online in Myanmaris possible, especially in thebig cities – look for reviewswith either an i or a W iconfor places with internet-readycomputers or wi-fi accessrespectively. During researchfor this guide, we even foundinternet access in relativelyremote locations such asMrauk U.However, with tightlysqueezed bandwidth,blocked sites and poweroutages it can often be afrustrating and ultimatelyfruitless exercise to sendand receive emails or checkvarious sites. Also, in March2011, Skype and other VoIP(Voice over Internet Protocol)calls were banned by theauthorities at internet cafes.Ingenious locals havecome up with ways aroundgovernment censorship ofsites: typing https://before asite URL can sometimes giveyou access. However, proceedcautiously as internetshop owners can get into bigtrouble if they’re found to beallowing access to prohibitedsites.There’s no censorship (sofar) of Facebook or gmail, soset up one of these accountsif you want to stay in contactwith the outside world whiletravelling in the country.Legal MattersYou have absolutely no legalrecourse in case of arrest ordetainment by the authorities,regardless of the charge.Foreign visitors engaging inpolitical activism risk deportationor imprisonment. Ifyou are arrested, you wouldmost likely be permitted tocontact your consular agentin Myanmar for possibleassistance.If you purchase gems orjewellery from persons orshops that are not licensedby the government, you runthe risk of having them confiscatedif customs officialsfind them in your baggagewhen you’re exiting thecountry.Journalists often claim adifferent profession in orderto get a visa, and they riskdeportation if authoritiessuspect that they’re researchinga political exposéwhile in the country.Forming public assembliesis illegal. Drug traffickingcrimes are punishable bydeath.Many foreigners (likeJonathan Rambo in a certaineponymous film) foolishlyenter Myanmar illegally fromnorthern Thailand, but not allsucceed in avoiding arrest.363DIRECTORY A–Z GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

364DIRECTORY A–ZMapsThe best available is the1:2,000,000 Periplus EditionsMyanmar Travel Map, a foldedmap with plans for Mandalay,Yangon and the Baganarea, or the ITMB 1:1,350,000Myanmar (Burma). Anotherchoice is the 1:1,500,000Nelles Myanmar, a foldedmap on coated stock. Goodplaces to buy maps onlineinclude International TravelMaps and Books (www.itmb.com) and East View MapLink (www.maplink.com).Myanmar-based DesignPrinting Services (DPS;www.dpsmap.com) prints usefultourist maps of Myanmar,Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan;get a free one online. Sometimesthese maps are sold locallyfor about K1000 or givenaway by tour agencies.In Yangon you can pick upthe full-colour, folded TouristMap of Myanmar, publishedon coated stock by DPS, frommany hotels and bookshops.Sometimes you can grab onefree at the Yangon Airportarrival hall.The Myanmar government’sSurvey Departmentpublishes a very good1:2,000,000 paper sheetmap of the country, simplyentitled Myanmar. It’s bigand the uncoated paperdecays rapidly. You can findit on Bogyoke Aung San Rdin Yangon, just east of themarket.MoneySee p 12 for details on costsin Myanmar and p 23 for tipson spreading your budgetthrough the private sectorrather than giving it to thegovernment.ATMs, Credit Cards &Travellers ChequesNone of Myanmar’s fewATMs accept overseas cards.Credit cards and travellerscheques are also useless inMyanmar, a situation that isKYAT &DOLLARSPrices in this bookalternate between kyat(K) and US dollars ($),depending on the currencyin which pricesare quoted. Be carefulto keep some US dollarswith you in caseyou’re turned back by astrict museum cashierwho will not take kyat.For more information,see p 364 .unlikely to change in the nearfuture.However, a couple of highendhotels in Yangon andMandalay do accept creditcards, and sometimes givecash back – albeit with ahefty surcharge.BanksThere was a mass emigrationof foreign banks fromMyanmar following the2003 sanctions by the EUand USA. The few nationalbanks that remain are of littleuse to travellers, as officialexchange rates massivelyovervalue the kyat.CurrencyMyanmar’s national currency,the kyat (pronounced‘chat’) is divided into thefollowing banknotes: K1, K5,K10, K20, K50, K100, K200,K500, K1000 and K5000;you’ll rarely come acrossthe smaller denominationsand if you do they’re often intatters.The US dollar acts as analternative currency withmost guesthouses and hotelsquoting prices and acceptingpayment in the greenback. Ifyou choose to pay in kyat, itwill be at a disadvantageousrate (perhaps a differenceof K50 or K100 to the dollar).Some hotels, shops andgovernment ferry clerks givechange in kyat or with tornUS bills that you can’t useelsewhere in Myanmar.Government-run services(such as archaeological sites,museums and ferries) andflights are paid for in US dollarsor FEC notes (see p 365 ).Items such as meals, bustickets, trishaw or taxi rides,bottles of water or beer andmarket items are usuallyquoted in kyat.MoneychangersAvoid the official exchangecounters, which undercutblack-market rates substantially(K7 per dollar, ratherthan K850).You will be asked to‘change money’ many timeson your trip. Technically, theonly reasonable way to buykyat is through the ‘blackmarket’ – meaning fromshops, hotels, travel agents,restaurants or less reliableguys on the street. You canchange US dollars or eurosin Yangon, but generally onlyUS dollars elsewhere.The $100 bill gets a betterexchange rate than a $50or $20, and so on. And supposedlythe exchange rate ismarginally better early in theweek (Monday or Tuesday).It’s safest to changemoney in hotels or shops,rather than on the street. Themoneychangers standingaround just east of the MahabandoolaGarden in Yangonhave a reputation for shortchangingnew arrivals.Never hand over yourmoney until you’ve receivedthe kyat and counted them.Honest moneychangerswill expect you to do this.Considering that K5000 isthe highest denomination(roughly $5.90), you’ll get alot of notes. Moneychangersgive ready-made, rubberbandedstacks of a hundredK1000 bills. It’s a goodidea to check each noteindividually. Often you’ll findone or two (or more) with acut corner or taped tears,neither of which anyone willaccept. We heard from sometravellers that Yangon mon-

eychangers have asked for a‘commission’.Many travellers do thebulk of their exchanging inYangon, where you can getabout K100 more per dollarthan elsewhere, then carrythe stacks of kyat aroundthe country. Considering therelative safety from theft, it’snot a bad idea, but you canexchange money elsewhere.Also, when paying forrooms and services in USdollars, check your changecarefully. Locals like to unloadslightly torn bills thatwork fine in New York, but willbe worthless for the rest ofyour trip in Myanmar.FECsSome government businesses,such as Myanma Airwaysand museums, may stillquote prices in Foreign ExchangeCertificates (FECs).Since one FEC is equal to $1there is absolutely no value inyou acquiring them.Tipping, Donations &BribesTipping is not customary inMyanmar, though little extra‘presents’ are sometimesexpected ( even if they’re notasked for) in exchange for aservice (such as unlockinga locked temple at Bagan,helping move a bag at the airportor showing you aroundthe sights of a village).It’s a good idea to havesome small notes (K50,K100, K200) when visiting areligious temple or monastery,as donations may berequested and you may wishto leave one even if it's not.In the past, many travellershave offered a little ‘teamoney’ to officials in order tohelp expedite bureaucraticservices such as visa extensionsor getting a seat on a‘sold out’ flight. You shouldn’thave to do this . If you overstayyour visa, you’ll oftenpay a $3 ‘fee’ for the paperwork,in addition to the $3per day penalty. See p 370 formore details.See also p 366 for detailson the ‘commissions’ paid toguides and drivers.PhotographyThere should be no problembringing a camera or videocamera into Myanmar, althougha huge contraptionthat looks like a portablemovie set will attract attention.Photo-processingshops and internet cafes canburn digital photos onto aCD, but you should have yourown adapter. Colour film –Fuji and Kodak – is widelyavailable.Avoid taking photographsof military facilities, uniformedindividuals, roadblocks, bridges and oppositionpolitical offices, includingthose of the NLD and AungSang Suu Kyi’s home inYangon.Most locals are very happyto be photographed, butalways ask first. If you have adigital camera with a displayscreen, some locals (kids,monks, anyone) will be overjoyedto see their image. It’salso very easy and cheap toget digital photos turned intoprints that can then be givento people as presents.Some sights, includingsome paya and other religioussites, charge a camerafee of K100 or so. Usually avideo camera fee is a littlemore.For tips on how to shootphotos, pick up Lonely Planet’sTravel Photography.PostMost mail out of Myanmargets to its destination quiteefficiently. Internationalpostagerates are a bargain:a postcard is K30.Officially, post officesacross Myanmar are supposedto be open from9.30am to 4.30pm Mondayto Friday.DHL Worldwide Express(%01-664 423; www.fastforward.dhl.com; 7A Kaba Aye PagodaRd, Yangon; h8am-6pmMon-Sat) is a more reliableway of sending out biggerpackages (though you cansend only documents to theUSA because of sanctions).Packages begin at $80(1.1lb/0.5kg); documentsat $72.Marine TransportService (%01-256 628; mts@yangon.net.mm; MGW Centre,170/176 Bo Aungkyaw Rd) canship freight boxes if you endup going nuts on puppets.365DIRECTORY A–Z PHOTOGRAPHYBRING NEW BILLS!We cannot stress enough the need to bring pristine‘new’ US dollar bills to Myanmar – that means 2006 orlater bills that have colour and are in absolutely perfectcondition: no folds, stamps, stains, writing marks ortears. Anything else may be rejected by moneychangers,hotels, restaurants, shops and museums.While $100 bills get the best exchange rates, it’s alsoa good idea to bring lots of small dollar bills – ones,fives and 10s – and to use them to pay for your hoteland other charges directly.Public HolidaysMajor public holidays:Independence Day(January 4)Union Day (February 12)Peasants’ Day (March 2)Armed Forces Day(March 27)Workers’ Day (May 1)National Day (October orNovember)Christmas (December 25)

366DIRECTORY A–ZYANGONPICK-UPShipping goods abroadfrom Myanmar is veryexpensive (and impossibleif you live in theUS, due to sanctions). Ifyou want a few puppets,but are worried aboutbreaking them alongthe way, many shopsaround the country willpackage your gifts andarrange to deliver themto a Yangon hotel by busfor a minimal fee.Safe TravelConsidering all the bad newsthat trickles out of Myanmar,it may sound like a rather unsafecountry to visit. For thevast majority of visitors, thereality is quite the opposite.Bugs, Snakes, Rats &MonkeysMosquitoes, if allowed, canhave a field day with you.Bring repellent from home,as the good stuff (other thanmosquito coils) is hard tocome by. Some guesthousesand hotels don’t providemosquito nets. See also entrieson malaria (p 384 ) anddengue fever (p 384 ).Myanmar has one of thehighest incidences of deathfrom snakebite in the world.Watch your step in brush,forest and grasses. See p 386for information on what to doif you’re bitten.Rats aren’t all that rampant.Family-run guesthouses,like regular homes, mighthave a rodent or two. Washyour hands before sleepingand try to keep food out ofyour room. If you trek in ShanState and stay in local accommodation,you may hearlittle footsteps at night.In a few sites, such as HpoWin Daung Caves, near Monywaor Mt Popa near Bagan,you’ll have monkeys beggingfor snacks. Take care as bitesare possible. See p 384 forprecautions against rabies.CrimeAll over Myanmar, policestations have English signsup that ask: ‘May I helpyou?’ It’s easy to smirk at,but supposedly some of therestrictions to travel aroundMyanmar are based on thegovernment’s desire to keepforeigners out of harm’s way.Locals know that thepenalties for stealing, particularlyfrom foreigners, canbe severe. Most travellers’memories of locals grabbingtheir money are of someonechasing them down to returna K500 note they dropped.If someone grabs your bagat a bus station, it’s almostcertainly just a trishaw driverhoping for a fare.Insurgents & BombsIn recent years, including in2011, there have been a handfulof bombings, usually linkedwith insurgent groups, inYangon and elsewhere. Nonehave targeted foreigners.Despite treaties betweenthe government and most insurgentgroups, signed in thelate 1990s, violent incidentson the Myanmar-Thai bordercould erupt at any time,particularly in and aroundTachileik. Land mines on theMyanmar side of the borderare another threat. Most traveladvisories warn against travelto this area, most of which isrestricted for foreigners.In Kayin State, splinteredKayin groups live in a potentialbattleground betweenthe Karen National LiberationArmy and governmenttroops. The section of theMyanmar border in a restrictedarea of Kayin betweenUm Phang and Mae Sariangoccasionally receives shellingfrom Myanmar troops inpursuit of Kayin (also knownas Karen) or Mon rebels.The presence of Shan andWa armies along the Thai-Myanmar border in northernMae Hong Son makes thisarea dangerous. The Wa havereportedly sworn off drugproduction, but there’s stillplenty of amphetamines andopium crossing some borderareas.In the past there havebeen reports of bandits holdingup vehicles at night, mostcommonly in the Tanintharyi(Tenasserim) division insoutheastern Myanmar, butalso near Taungoo. We’venot heard of foreigners beingtargeted.PoliticsThe message is clear: allowlocals to introduce the subjectof politics and proceed totalk with discretion if they do.Since Aung San Suu Kyi'srelease in 2010, driving byher house in Yangon hasbecome much easier, butyou should think twice aboutstopping to take photos thereand especially at any NLDoffice. You are not only riskingtrouble (possible deportation),but implicating yourtaxi driver too.Guides, trishaw drivers,vendors and hotel staff areoften able to talk at lengthwith foreigners withoutsuspicion. Some can besurprisingly frank in theirviews. Teahouses carry thereputation as being opendiscussionforums for somelocals – but not all. Again, letthe locals lead the conversationin that direction.Restricted RoadsMany overland roads areclosed to foreigners. However,in places you can enter thereare surprising levels of freedomto stop and look aroundwhere you want. The map onp 380 shows the main routesthat are openly accessible,though this can change.Scams & HassleMyanmar touts are pretty minorleague in comparison withothers in the region. Mosthassle is due to commissions.These small behind-thescenespayments are made,

like it or not, for a taxi, trishawdriver or guide who takes youto a hotel, to buy a puppet oreven to eat some rice.When arriving at a busstation, you’re likely to bequickly surrounded by touts,some of whom will try tosteer you to a particular hotelthat offers them a commission.Be wary of claims thatyour chosen place is ‘nogood’, though in some caseswe found that trishaw driverswho had warned us that‘foreigners can’t stay there’ended up being correct. If youknow where you want to go,persist and they’ll take you.Be wary of fanciful offersof jade or other gems assome are filled with worthlessrock or concrete mixture.Many people may approachto say ‘hello’ onthe street. In some cases,they’re just curious or wantto practise some English. Inother cases the conversationswitches from ‘what countryyou from?’ to ‘where you needto go?’ It’s all pretty harmless.You’ll be asked to changemoney frequently. See p 364for tips on doing so withcaution.SpiesAt some point on your trip(and you'll probably neverknow when), the authoritieswill be watching you. This iseven more likely to happenwhen you go to more off-thebeaten-trackplaces, whereauthorities are less used toseeing foreigners.Transport & RoadHazardsThe poor state of road andrail infrastructure pluslax safety standards andprocedures for flights andboats means that travellingcan sometimes be dangerous.Government-operatedMyanma Airways (MA) hasa sketchy safety record, andthere are reports that someMA aircraft have been usedby Air Bagan. The ricketystate of Myanmar’s railwayalso doesn’t inspire muchconfidence. It’s not muchbetter on the roads wheresafety often seems to be thelast consideration of bothdrivers and pedestrians.Proceed with cautionwhen crossing any road,particularly in cities wheredrivers are unlikely to stop ifthey are involved in an accidentwith a pedestrian. Trafficdrives on the right in Myanmar,but the majority of carsare right-hand-drive imports,which add to the chance ofaccidents occurring. Factorin the poor state of roadsand the even poorer state ofSAFETY GUIDELINES FOR HIKINGWe’ve heard about some travellers finding new pathsand staying in the hills for a week or more. Most, however,stick with day trips. Here are a few points to considerbefore lacing up the boots:» Hike with at least one companion; in most cases it’sbest to hire a guide.» Do not venture by foot into areas restricted toforeigners; ask around before taking off.» Camping in the hills is not technically legal, as foreignersmust be registered nightly with local authoritiesby owners of ‘licensed accommodation’.» Trail conditions can get slippery and dangerous,especially in the rainy season.» Walk only in regions within your capabilities – you’renot going to find a trishaw out there to bring you back.GOVERNMENTTRAVEL ADVICEThe following governmentwebsites offertravel advisories andinformation on currenthot spots:» Australia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)» Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca)» New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz)» UK (www.fco.gov.uk/travel)» USA (travel.state.gov/travel)many clapped-out vehiclesand you have a recipe forpotential disaster.TelephoneLocal CallsMost business cards inMyanmar list a couple ofphone numbers, as linesfrequently go dead and callsjust don’t go through.Local call stands – as partof a shop, or sometimes justa table with a phone or twoon a sidewalk – are markedby a drawing of a phone andcan be found all over Myanmar.A local call should beK100 per minute.To dial long distancewithin Myanmar, dial the areacode (including the ‘0’) andthe number.A useful resource is theMyanmar Yellow Pages(www.myanmaryellowpages.biz).International CallsOfficial telephone (call) centresare sometimes the onlyway to call overseas, thoughsometimes this can bedone on the street throughvendors offering use of theirmobile phones.Generally, it costs about$5 per minute to call Australiaor Europe and $6 per367DIRECTORY A–Z TELEPHONE

368DIRECTORY A–Zminute to phone North America.You’ll usually be asked topay in US dollars. In March2011, the authorities bannedSkype and other internetbasedcall services at internetcafes, as the lower ratescharged for such calls wasimpacting the revenue madeat government call centres.To call Myanmar fromabroad, dial your country’sinternational access code,then %95 (Myanmar’s countrycode), the area code (minusthe ‘0’), and the five- orsix-digit number. Area codesare listed below town headingsthroughout the book.Mobile PhonesMobile phone numbers beginwith %09. There’s no internationalroaming in Myanmar,so in most cases your mobile(cell) phone will be uselesshere. You’ll see a lot of themin use, though. This is aserious status symbol, consideringthe SIM card aloneofficially costs K1.5 million(around $1685) and muchmore on the black market.For a short period in 2010it was possible to buy a prepaidSIM card for a GSMphone with $20 of credit(expiring in a month); theywere provided by a Tay Zacompany. During our researchin 2011 these were notavailable, although $50 cards(with credit expiring in threemonths) were widely on salefor use in CDMA phones. Youcan find a CDMA 450 phonefor as little as $50 in Yangon.TimeThe local Myanmar StandardTime (MST) is 6½ hoursahead of Greenwich MeanTime (GMT/UTC). Whencoming in from Thailand,turn your watch back half anhour; coming from India, putyour watch forward an hour.The 24-hour clock is oftenused for train times.ToiletsToilets, when you need themmost (at bus stops or offthe highway), are often attheir worst. Apart from mostguesthouses, hotels andupscale restaurants, squattoilets are the norm. Most ofthese are located down a dirtpath behind a house. Usuallynext to the toilet is a cementreservoir filled with water, anda plastic bowl lying nearby.This has two functions: as aflush and for people to cleantheir nether regions while stillsquatting over the toilet. Toiletpaper is available at shops allover the country, but not oftenat toilets. Some places chargea nominal fee to use the toilet.Note that, other than attop-end hotels, the plumbingin flush, sit-down toilets isnot equipped to flush paper.Usually there’s a small wastebasket nearby to depositused toilet paper.It’s perfectly acceptablefor men (less so for women)to go behind a tree or bush(or at the roadside) whennature calls.Note that buses andsmaller boats usually don’thave toilets.TouristInformationGovernment-operated MyanmarTravels & Tours (MTT;http://myanmartravelsandtours.com) is part of the MinistryLIVING ON MYANMAR TIMEChances are that your bus or train will roll in late, but much of Myanmar actually doeswork on a different time system. Buddhists use an eight-day week in which Thursday toTuesday conform to the Western calendar but Wednesday is divided into two 12-hourdays. Midnight to noon is ‘Bohdahu’ (the day Buddha was born), while noon to midnightis ‘Yahu’ (Rahu, a Hindu god/planet). However, it’s rare that the week’s unique structurecauses any communication problems.The traditional Myanmar calendar features 12 28-day lunar months that run out ofsync with the months of the solar Gregorian calendar. To stay in sync with the solaryear, Myanmar inserts a second Waso lunar month every few years – somewhat like theleap-year day added to the Gregorian February. The lunar months of Myanmar are Tagu,March/April; Kason, April/May; Nayon, May/June; Waso, June/July; Wagaung, July/August; Tawthalin, August/September; Thadingyut, September/October; Tazaungmon,October/November; Nadaw, November/December; Pyatho, December/January; Tabodwe,January/February; Tabaung, February/March.Traditionally, Burmese kings subscribed to various year counts. The main one in currentuse, the thekkayit, begins in April and is 638 years behind the Christian year count.Therefore, the Christian year of 2011 is equivalent to the thekkayit of 1373. If an ancienttemple you see sounds way too old, it may be because locals are using the thekkayit.Another calendar in use follows the Buddhist era (BE), as used in Thailand, whichcounts from 543 BC, the date that Buddha achieved nibbana. Hence AD 2011 is 2554 BE.

of Hotels & Tourism and themain ‘tourist information’service in the country. Thosewho want to avoid usinggovernment services shouldavoid the tours and servicesoffered here, including trainor plane ticket sales. MTToffices are located in Yangon,Mandalay, New Bagan andInle Lake. Other than at Yangon,these offices are prettyquiet, and often the staffhave sketchy knowledge onrestricted areas. There are noMTT offices abroad.Much of the tourist industryin Myanmar is now privatised.Travellers who want toarrange a driver, or have hotelreservations awaiting them,would do well to arrange a tripwith the help of private travelagents in Yangon. Many Myanmar‘travel agents’ outsideYangon only sell air tickets.Travellers withDisabilitiesWith its lack of paved roadsor footpaths (even whenpresent the latter are oftenuneven), Myanmar presentsmany physical obstaclesfor the mobility-impaired.Rarely do public buildings(or transport) feature rampsor other access points forwheelchairs, and hotelsmake inconsistent efforts toprovide access for the disabled(exceptions include theStrand Hotel and the TradersHotel in Yangon, which bothhave some ramping).For wheelchair travellers,any trip to Myanmar will requirea good deal of planning.Before setting off, get in touchwith your national supportorganisation (preferably withthe travel officer, if there isone). Also try the following:Accessible Journeys(%800-846 4537; www.disabilitytravel.com) In the US.Mobility InternationalUSA (%541-343 1284; www.miusa.org) In the US.Nican (%02-6241 1220; www.nican.com.au) In Australia.VISA FEESThe vast majority of visitors should apply for a touristvisa. Former Myanmar citizens and their blood relativesare eligible for ‘Social’ visas, which can be extended atthe Immigration Department in Yangon for $36 for upto six months. The following table lists fees, which areconverted into local currency depending on which embassyyou apply at.VISA TYPE FEE VALIDITY OF VISAtourist (single entry) $20 28 dayssocial (single entry) $30 28 dayssocial (multiple entry) $150 6 monthswork (single entry) $3010 weekswork (multiple entry) $15010 weeksmeditation (single entry) $30 3 monthsTourism for All (%0845 1249971; www.tourismforall.org.uk)In the UK.VisasAll nationalities require a visato visit Myanmar, and to getone your passport must bevalid for six months beyondthe date of your arrival.See p 375 for more informationon entering Myanmaroverland from Thailandor China, including details ofshort-term visas (with verylimited access to Myanmar)available at the borders.Special permission is requiredto leave the countryoverland from Tachileik toThailand.Note that Myanmardoesn’t recognise dualnationalities.ApplicationsDon’t apply too early, as allvisas are valid for up to threemonths from the date ofissue. However, don’t leave ittill the last minute either, asmost embassies and consulatesneed at least two weeksto process an application.Starting the process a monthin advance is the safe bet.There are slight differencesbetween the applicationprocedures at Myanmar embassiesin different countries.Some require two forms tobe filled out – the generalapplication and a work historyform – others just thegeneral application. Somerequire two passport photos,others only one. Postal applicationsare usually OK, butit’s best to check first withyour nearest embassy aboutits specific application rules.It’s best to proceed on theassumption that embassieswill scrupulously check thebackground of anyone applyingfor a tourist visa. It’sunwise to list your occupationas any of the following:journalist, photographer,editor, publisher, motionpicturedirector or producer,cameraperson, videographeror writer. Of course, plentyof media professionals (evenhigh-profile ones) do get intothe country – usually by declaringa different professionon the visa application; we’vefound ‘consultant’ works.Myanmar foreign missionsmay also be suspiciousof anyone whose passportshows two or more previousvisits to Myanmar in a fiveyearperiod. Obviously thegovernment can’t believeanyone would want to visitMyanmar more than once369DIRECTORY A–Z TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

370DIRECTORY A–ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In 2010, Myanmar test-ran a tourist-visa-on-arrivalsystem for flights into Yangon, but at the time of ourresearch in early 2011, it didn’t appear to be operating,despite many websites making it seem as if it still did.We have since heard that visas on arrival are onceagain available at Yangon Airport, but only in veryspecific circumstances. To get one, you need to enterMyanmar on the scheduled Myanmar Airways Internationalflights from either Guangzhou or Siem Reap.or twice! In cases such asthese you’ll need more of areason than simply ‘tourism’for receiving another visa. Becreative.Extensions &Overstaying Your VisaTourist visas cannot be extendedand you can run intoproblems if you choose tostay longer than the allotted28 days. Hotels are obliged toreport travellers whose visashave expired to the authoritiesand, if found to have notdone so, will be in troublethemselves.Also, you may have difficultieswith airport immigrationif you’re planning domesticflights, particularly infar-flung airports (like Sittweor Myitkyina). If you do overstay,it’s wise to stick withland routes and places withineasy access of Yangon, aswe’ve heard stories of suchtourists being instructed toleave the country immediatelywhen discovered by theauthorities.All this said, overstayingyour visa a few days – evena week or so – is possible. Atresearch time, Yangon Airport’simmigration charged$3 per day, plus a $3 ‘registrationfee’ for visitors whogo over the allotted 28 days.Have exact change ready(they’re not likely to changeyour $100 bill and they won’ttake kyat) and arrive earlyenough to fill out the necessaryforms.VolunteeringOfficial opportunities to volunteerare greatly limited. Alist of NGOs that may havevolunteering opportunitiescan be found on www.ngoinmyanmar. org, althoughmostly their postings are forspecific experienced workers(often in medicine). Don’tlet this sway you. Everyonein Myanmar wants to learnEnglish, and few can affordto. Ask in towns or villages tosit in at an English class.One or two smaller operationshave fought their waythrough government- andsanction- inspired red tapeand set up low-key projectsto improve lives. The followingare able to accept bothskilled and unskilled volunteers,but give them as muchadvance notice as possible.Growing Together School(gt.camp@gmail.com) Swissrunproject with two schoolsbased in and around Yangon.It generally requires volunteertrained and untrainedteachers and builders andhandypeople for at least sixweeks.Eden Centre for DisabledChildren (%640 399; www.edencentre.org) Myanmar-runNGO working to better thelives of disabled children inthe city.Myanmar Charity Group(www.myanmarcharitygroup.org) Provides assistance forthe education and generalwelfare of disabled andorphaned children.Unicef (www.unicef.org/myanmar/index.html) Runs variousprograms to protect childrenand improve public health.Women TravellersAs in most Buddhist countries,foreign women travellingin Myanmar are rarely hassledon the road as they might bein India, Malaysia or Indonesia.However, we have heard afew reports of sexual harassment.Dressing modestlyshould help reduce this risk:wear a local longyi instead ofa skirt above the knee, andany old T-shirt instead of aspaghetti-strap singlet.Few Myanmar womenwould consider travellingwithout at least one femalecompanion, so women travellingalone are regarded asslightly peculiar by the locals.Lone women being seen offon boats and trains by localfriends may find the latter tryingto find a suitably responsibleolder woman to keepthem company on the trip.If you didn’t bring tampons,one good place to findthem is Yangon’s City MartSupermarket.‘Ladies’ (per the postedsigns in certain areas) cannotgo up to some altars or ontodecks around stupas, includingthe one affording a closeuplook at the famous GoldenRock at Kyaiktiyo, or applygold leaf on the Buddhaimage at Mandalay’s MahamuniPaya. Also, womenshould never touch a monk;if you’re handing somethingto a monk, place the objectwithin reach of him, not directlyinto his hands.Most locals tend to visitteahouses, restaurants orshops with members of thesame sex. Asian women, evenfrom other countries, travellingwith a Western man mayencounter rude comments.

TransportGETTING THERE& AWAYEntering theCountryIf you’re arriving by air, andhave your visa ready (seep 369 ) and a valid passportwith at least six months ofvalidity from the time ofentry in hand, you shouldhave no trouble enteringMyanmar.Arriving and departing byland from China and Thailandis possible, but not very practical.Regular tourists are notallowed to enter Myanmar byland or sea from Bangladesh,India or Laos. For more onborder crossings see boxedtext, p 375 .There is no requirementfor you to show an onwardticket out of the country inorder to enter Myanmar.AirAirports & AirlinesPractically all internationalflights arrive at Yangon (Rangoon)airport (RGN); there’salso a connection to Kunmingin China from Mandalayairport (MDL). The mostcommon route to Yangon isvia Bangkok, though thereare direct flights with severalother regional cities such asSingapore and Kuala Lumpur.The following airlines haveregular international links.See p 373 for a list of domesticcarriers.Air Asia (airline code FD;%01-251 885; www.airasia.com; Park Royal Hotel, 33 AhLan Paya Pagoda Rd, Dagon)Twice daily to/from Bangkokand Kuala Lumpur.Air China (airline code CA;%01-505 024; www.airchina.com; B13/23 Shwe KanayeiHousing, Narnattaw Rd) Fivetimes weekly to/from Beijingand Kunming.Air India (airline code AI;%01-253 601; http://home.airindia.in; 127 Sule Paya Rd)Kolkata (Calcutta) on Mondayand Friday.Bangkok Airways (airlinecode PG; %01-255 122; www.bangkokair.com; Sakura Tower,339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd)Four times weekly to/fromBangkok.China Airlines (airline codeCI; www.china-airlines.com)Three times weekly to/fromTaipei.Malaysia Airlines (airlinecode MH; %01-2410 0720;www.malaysiaairlines.com;Central Hotel, 335/337 BogyokeAung San Rd) Daily to/from Kuala Lumpur.Myanmar Airways International(airline code 8M;%01-255 260; www.maiair.com; Sakura Tower, 339 BogyokeAung San Rd) Unaffiliatedwith the government’s MyanmaAirways. Flies to/fromBangkok, Gaya, Guangzhou,Kuala Lumpur, Siem Reap,Singapore. There are plansto add Delhi, Hong Kong,Kunming, Seoul and Tokyoflights to its schedule.Silk Air (airline code MI;%01-255 287; www.silkair.com;Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke371CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVELEvery form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO 2 , the main causeof human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, whichmight use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greaterdistances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO 2 ) and particles alsocontributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ thatallow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for thosewho wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributionsto portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsetsthe carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.

372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTURE TAXMyanmar locals payK500, but foreignerspay $10 departure tax,which is not includedwith your air ticket.Have the US dollarsin hand when leavingthe country. You payat the window in theentrance hall, beforeyou check in. Kyat arenot accepted. There isno departure tax fordomestic flights.Aung San Rd) Daily to/fromSingapore.Thai Airways (airline codeTG; %01-255 499; www.thaiair.com; Sakura Tower, 339 BogyokeAung San Rd) Daily to/from Bangkok.Vietnam Airlines (airlinecode TG; %01-255 066; www.vietnamairlines.com; SakuraTower, 339 Bogyoke Aung SanRd) Five times weekly to/from Hanoi and twice weeklyto/from Ho Chi Minh.TicketsAirlines offer discounted ticketsvia the internet dependingon how far in advance youbook. Good deals are oftenavailable from Bangkok,Kuala Lumpur and Singaporeon budget airlines such asAir Asia and Silk Air. If you’reflying around the region, lookinto Bangkok Airways DiscoveryAirpass.Once in Myanmar you canonly buy international ticketsfrom travel agents or airlineoffices in Yangon.Reconfirming TicketsIt’s important to reconfirmyour outgoing tickets fromMyanmar a few days in advancefor all airlines otherthan Thai Airways and SilkAir. If you’ve forgotten whattime your flight is, the insideback page of the MyanmarTimes lists the week’s internationalflight schedule.GETTINGAROUNDMuch of the mountainousareas of Myanmar near theborders is closed, due toconflicts with minority groupsor sometimes due to dodgyinfrastructure. We havehighlighted these places inthe destination chapters butsituations could change, withroutes opening (or closing).In unrestricted areas,travel methods are remarkablyopen to visitors. No setitineraries are required andyou can pick and choosehow you go as you go – takinga bus, plane or train, orcrammed pick-up, or hoppingonto a giant ferry thatdrifts at ox-like speed.Speaking of which, localtransport also comes pedpowered,often with trishawsgreeting you for rides aroundtown and rental bikes awaitingyou at nearly all accommodation.There are horsecarts too.It’s worth trying to go byland in Myanmar. Airlineshave higher fares – thus moretax money that reaches thegovernment (see p 21 ) –than a bus, not to mentionhigher carbon emissions.Many places that are restrictedactually can be visitedwith permits provided by thegovernment’s Myanmar Travels& Tours (MTT) and a guide.Sometimes this takes severalmonths of advance planning.So don’t expect to cross ChinState’s rough highways byshowing up and asking.The bulk of this book, ofcourse, focuses on placesyou can go on your own withoutany pre-planning. See themap on p 380 for transportroutes that were open atresearch time. Reachingsome isolated towns such asKengtung or Sittwe requiresjumps by air or boat.AirMyanmar’s domestic airservice features a handfulof overworked planes thathave busy days, sometimeslanding at an airport, leavingthe engine on, unloading andloading, and taking off in 20minutes! This doesn’t yield aspot-free safety record (seep 367 ).Between the main destinationsof Yangon, Mandalay,Heho (for Inle Lake), NyaungU (for Bagan) and Thandwe(for Ngapali Beach), you’llfind daily connections. Inmany other places, there arespotless, largely unused airportsserving, well, no flightsother than visiting dignitarieson occasion.As with internationalflights, domestic flightsinvolve immigration andcustoms checks.Airport CodesMany posted flight schedulesaround the country onlyuse domestic airport codes,shown in the following table.AIRPORT CODEBhamo BMODawei (Tavoy) TVYHeho (Inle Lake) HEHHomalin HOXKalaymyoKMVKawthoungKAWKengtung KETLashio LSHMandalay MDLMawlamyine MNUMyeik MGZMyitkyina MYTNay Pyi TawNPTNyaung U NYU(Bagan)Pathein BSXPutao PBUSittweAKYTachileik THLThandwe (NgapaliSNWBeach)Yangon RGN

Domestic AirlinesAlthough only one of thedomestic airlines is ownedoutright by the government(Myanma Airways), the otherfour have known or suspectedlinks. At the very least, allpay hefty government licenceand administration fees.Tay Za (see boxed text,p 26 ) owns Air Bagan; hiscompanies have been targeteddirectly by outside sanctions.Aung Ko Win, owner ofAir Kanbawza, is believed tobe a close business associateof Vice-Senior GeneralMaung Aye.We advise avoiding MyanmaAirways – its Fokkers areantiques with the worst reputationfor upkeep.Following is the contact informationfor airline offices inYangon; the regional officesare listed in the respectivedestination chapters.Air Bagan (airline codeW9; %01-513 322/422; www.airbagan.com; airline code AB;56 Shwe Taung Gyar St) Hasthe largest fleet with sixplanes.Air Kanbawza (airline codeKZ; %01-255 260; Sakura Tower,339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd)Owned by the same KanbawzaBank tycoon who ownsMyanmar Airways International,this two-plane operationstarted up in April 2011.Air Mandalay (airline code6T; %01-525 488; www.airmandalay.com; 146 Dhammazedi Rd)A Singapore-Malaysia jointventure with three planes.Asian Wings (airline codeAW; %01-516 654; www.asianTOURSwingsairways.com; 34 ShweTaung Gyar St) Rumoured tobe a subsidiary of Air Bagan,this two-plane operationstarted in January 2011.Myanma Airways (MA;airline code UB; %01-374 874,01-373 828; www.mot.gov.mm/ma; 104 Strand Rd) Governmentairline.SchedulesOne Yangon agent told us ‘inMyanmar, air routes changein the air’. They’re not joking.It’s particularly true ofMA flights, where dates anddeparture times are oftennot written on your ticket, sothe airline doesn’t have tohonour the dates and timesfor which reservations wereoriginally made. (In somecases, if officials are flyingsomewhere seats may suddenlyopen to the public.)Schedules are more reliableon the other airlines, andbetween main destinationssuch as Yangon, Mandalay,Nyaung U and Heho, duringthe high season – but it’sessential to always doublecheckdeparture times beforeleaving for the airport.TicketsTravel agents sell flight ticketsat a slightly discountedrate, so it usually makes littlesense to buy directly from theairlines. An exception to this isif you choose to use Air Mandalay.In 2011 the companybegan its Discover MyanmarPass covering the four flightson the routing Yangon–Mandalay–NyaungU–Heho–Many foreign-run companies book package tours toMyanmar. In most instances, more money will reach thelocal people if you travel on your own or arrange a driverand guide from a locally based agent. See p 30 for tipson arranging your own tour with agencies in Myanmar.Travel agents along Bangkok’s Khao San Rd offer ahost of short-term package trips to Myanmar, some ofwhich are geared more to midrange, locally run hotelsthan top-end, joint-venture hotels.Yangon. At $215 plus $28 intaxes it’s a slight saving overwhat you are likely to pay forsimilar tickets from an agent.There are plans to add Thandwe(for Ngapali Beach) tothe pass. Reservation can bemade online via the Air Mandalaywebsite with the passbeing paid for and picked upfrom the company’s office inYangon.One-way fares are half areturn fare, and can usuallybe bought a day in advance.To buy a ticket, you’ll need topay with US dollars or ForeignExchange Certificates (FECs;see p 365 ), and bring yourpassport to the travel agentor airline office. It’s sometimesdifficult to buy a ticketthat departs from a townother than the one you are in.There is no domestic departuretax.SAMPLE AIRFARESThe following table showssome one-way airfare quotesduring peak season for keyroutes in Myanmar – youmay find them for a few dollarscheaper. Fares during theoff season (roughly Marchthrough October) are about$4 or $5 cheaper.ROUTE FARE ($)Mandalay-Heho 43(Inle Lake)Mandalay-Nyaung 43U (Bagan)Nyaung U (Bagan)- 62Heho (Inle Lake)Thandwe-Sittwe71Yangon-Heho (Inle 91Lake)Yangon-Mandalay 97Yangon-Nyaung U 91(Bagan)Yangon-Sittwe107Yangon-Thandwe 78(Ngapali)373TRANSPORT AIR

374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleYou’ll sure see a lot of these:bicycles are clearly thenumber-one means for localsto get around and can easilybe hired around the countryby visitors.Around TownAt popular tourist spots inMandalay, Bagan and InleLake you’ll see ‘bike rental’signs; rates start at K1000per day; top-end hotels andoccasionally more far-flungplaces charge up to K4000.Most guesthouses in suchplaces keep a few bikes onhand; if not, staff can trackone down. Note the conditionof the bike before hiring;check the brakes and pedalsin particular. Many rentalbikes have baskets or bells,but don’t expect a crashhelmet!Sturdier Indian, Chineseor Thai imports are around(from $100) if you’d ratherbuy one. Some tours providebikes, so you may be able torent better quality ones fromagents (eg Exotissimo in NewBagan).Apart from in Yangon andMandalay, vehicular traffic isquite light.Long DistanceA few visitors bring their owntouring bikes into Myanmar.There doesn’t seem to beany problem with customs aslong as you make the properdeclarations upon enteringthe country.Gradients are moderatein most parts of Myanmarthat are open to tourism.Frontier regions, on the otherhand, tend to be mountainous,particularly Shan, Kayin,Kayah and Chin States. You’llfind plenty of opportunityeverywhere for dirt-roadand off-road pedalling. Asturdy mountain bike wouldmake a good alternative to atouring rig, especially in thenorth, where main roads canresemble secondary roadselsewhere.WARNING – THINGS CHANGEThe information in this chapter is particularly vulnerableto change, and this is especially so in Myanmar.In terms of international travel, prices are volatile,routes are introduced and cancelled, schedules change,special deals come and go, and rules and visa requirementsare amended. Always check directly with theairline or a travel agent to make sure you understandhow a fare (and ticket you may buy) works. In addition,the travel industry is highly competitive, and there aremany perks.The upshot of this is that you should get opinions,quotes and advice from as many airlines and travelagents as possible before you part with your hardearnedcash. The details given in this chapter should beregarded as pointers and are not a substitute for yourown careful, up-to-date research.Some of the key routesaround Myanmar:» Thazi to Inle Lake viaKalaw» Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) toLashio via Hsipaw» Mandalay to Bagan viaMyingyan» Mandalay to either Monywa,Pyin Oo Lwin, Sagaing,Inwa (Ava) or AmarapuraNovember to February is thebest time to cycle in terms ofthe weather.If you’re bringing yourbike, bring the spare partsyou need. There are (at least)basic bicycle shops in mosttowns, but they usually haveonly locally or Chinese-madeparts to equip single-speedbikes. You can also buy lowerqualitymotorcycle helmetshere; many are disturbinglyadorned with swastikas – afad, not a political alliance.Bring reflective clothing andplenty of insurance. Don’tride at night.Travellers on a bike mayend up needing to sleep intowns few travellers makeit to, and a lack of licensedaccommodation may be anissue. Technically, you willneed permission from localimmigration to stay at suchplaces. Be patient. Mostcyclists get permission fromlocal authorities to stay onenight, but the paperwork(coming with some frowns)may take an hour or so toarrange.It’s possible to store yourbicycle in the undercarriagestorage on buses, though youmay have to pay a little extra.On smaller buses it’s possibleyou’ll be asked to buy a‘seat’ for your bike.Some bike tours connectthe dots of Myanmar’s greatesthits – going, for example,up the Pyay highway toBagan then Mandalay, andback to Yangon via Meiktilaand Taungoo. It’s more roughgoing, but nicer riding, toreach some mountainousareas, like Inle Lake. Recommendedtours companies:Bike World ExploresMyanmar (%09 513 4190;www.bwemtravel.com)Yangon-based company thatalso sells and rents bikesand can offer touring advice.It has eight itinerariesfrom easy day trips aroundYangon (from $140) to 10-day adventures in Chin State(from $1128).Exotissimo (%01-255266; www.exotissimo.com)Bangkok-based firm thathas offices in Myanmar, andruns high-end cycle tourscovering Mandalay to Bagan,the Shan Hills and sights inMon State.

Spice Roads (%0066 2 7125305; www.spiceroads.com)Bangkok-based operation,offering two 14-day itineraries(including eight daysof riding) from $2150 perperson. One follows part ofthe old Burma Road fromPyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay.BoatA huge fleet of riverboats,remnants of the old 1920seraIrrawaddy FlotillaCompany (IFC), still plyMyanmar’s major rivers,where the bulk of travellerorientedboat travel getsdone. Some boats are ramshackle(but certainly lively)government ferries. Othersdate all the way back to theBritish era and others stillare old-style IFC liners convertedfor luxury cruises.The main drawback of thismode of travel is speed – orlack thereof. Boat trips formany routes are looselyscheduled in terms of days,not hours.There are 5000 miles ofnavigable river in Myanmar,with the most importantriver being the Ayeyarwady(Irrawaddy). Even in the dryseason, boats can travel fromthe delta region (dodgingexposed sandbars) all theway north to Bhamo, andin the wet they can reachMyitkyina.Other important riversinclude the Twante Chaung(Twante Chanel), which linksthe Ayeyarwady to Yangon,and the Chindwin River,which joins the Ayeyarwady alittle above Bagan. The ThanlwinRiver in the east is onlynavigable for about 125 milesfrom its mouth at Mawlamyine,though the five-hour tripto Hpa-an is one of the country’smost scenic waterwayjourneys.It takes great expertiseto navigate Myanmar’s waterways.Rapidly changingsandbanks and shallow waterduring the dry season meanthe captains and pilots haveto keep in constant touchwith the changing pattern ofthe river flows.In addition to the rivers,it’s possible to travel alongthe Bay of Bengal betweenSittwe and Taunggok (northof Ngapali Beach).375TRANSPORT BOATBORDER CROSSINGSMyanmar’s land borders are closed to foreign tourists, except for three specific casesdetailed here, each of which is subject to special conditions. No bus or train service connectsMyanmar with another country, nor can you travel by car or motorcycle across theborder – you must walk across. Have your visa ready before you get to the border (seep 369 ).Overland links could change at some point in the future. Most of Myanmar’s neighboursactively covet Myanmar ports and are planning on investing for infrastructureprojects to eventually criss-cross Myanmar by road. This may mean connections fromDanang, Vietnam (through Laos and Thailand) to Mawlamyine, and up through centralMyanmar, across the Indian border at Morei to New Delhi.To/From Mae Sai, ThailandNorth of Chiang Rai it’s possible to cross to Tachileik (p 197 ). Travellers are issued a 14-day entry permit, not a visa, at the border for B500. You can travel to Kengtung, but cannotcontinue anywhere else (even if you have a regular tourist visa).Travellers wanting to exit Myanmar here can do so with the 14-day permit, or if theyhave a permit from Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) in Yangon.To/From Ranong, ThailandThis exit is generally closed for outgoing tourists, though it’s possible to cross into Myanmarfrom Thailand on a ‘visa run’. See p 105 for more.To/From Ruili, ChinaYou can only enter or leave Myanmar from this border with China on a package in both directions.Coming from Kunming you should book a multiday ‘visa-and-package trip’ – youcan’t go on your own – to cross the border at Mu-se and on to Lashio. It’s about Y1400($200). Ruili is about 20 hours from Kunming by road, and Lashio is a five-hour trip fromthe border, but you can stay in Mu-se if necessary.Heading in the other direction, MTT in Yangon and Mandalay quoted us deals fromLashio to the border, including a permit, guide, car and driver for one/two/three passengers,for $170/220/255. Once across the border, onward connections to Kunming andDali are straightforward. For more details see the boxed text, p 267 .

376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo ShipsMyanma Five Star Line(www.mfsl-shipping.com), thegovernment-owned oceantransport enterprise, is onlycargo now, but you can tryto see about jumping on aboat to Thandwe, Taunggokor Sittwe, or south to Dawei,Myeik or Kawthoung, atsome point in the future.Ferries & PrivateBoatsThe government-run InlandWater Transport (IWT; www.iwt.gov.mm) has 476 boatsshifting some 25 million passengersannually. The boatstend to be rather run-downand ramshackle, but provideremarkable glimpses into localriver life. Many of the passengerson the long-distanceferries are traders who makestops along the way to pickup or deliver goods.Along the heavily travelled262-mile-long Yangon–Pyay–Mandalay route, there are 28ferry landings, where merchantscan ply their trade.IWT offices are usually nearthe jetty. They can offer information,schedules and faredetails, and usually tickets.IWT offices, officially, acceptUS dollars and FECs only.Some short trips – forexample, between Bagan andPakokku – are handled withsmall covered wooden ferriesthat fit about 25 people.Often there are smaller,private boats you can negotiateto use with the driver. Weinclude private boat serviceswhenever possible. However,because of their size it’s notalways as safe riding withprivate boats compared withbigger government ferries.In 2004, a small private boatbetween Sittwe and Mrauk Ucapsized during a storm andseveral Italian tourists werekilled.Only a few riverboatroutes are regularly used byvisitors. Key routes:» Mandalay to Bagan (seep 120 ) On the IWT or privateboats such as the Malikha» Mandalay to Myitkyinavia Bhamo and Katha (seep 241 ) A few private fast-boatservices, but mostly done onthe IWT.» Mawlamyine to Hpa-an(see p 101 ) Daily governmentferries.» Sittwe to Mrauk U (seep 279 ) Small private boats orgovernment ferry.There is no direct servicebetween Yangon and Mandalay;you have to change boatsin Pyay – and the IWT officesseemed to frown on takingpassengers on this route. Ifyou make it, take a book ortwo: it’s about two days byboat between Mandalay andBagan, three more to Pyay,and two more to Yangon. Amore feasible long journey,and a more attractive one, issouth from Myitkyina.Luxury BoatsSeveral luxury ferries travelthe upper and lower reachesof the Ayeyarwady River.You can book services withtravel agents in Yangon, butkeep in mind that manytrips are booked out by tourgroups and some will bejoint-venture operations. Formore about these cruises seeboxed text, p 214 .Amara Cruise (www.myanmar-discovery.de, www.amaragroup.net) Owned bya German and his Burmesewife this company runscruises from Mandalay toboth Bagan (four day, threenights single/double from€720/490) and Bhamo(seven day, six nights single/double from €1620/1120); italso runs a local charity theAmara Foundation (www.amara-foundation.com)Ayravata Cruises (www.ayravatacruises.com) Beautifullyrestored river steamersare used for this company’strips, which range from oneor two days between Manda-SURVIVING LONG-DISTANCE BUS TRIPSHeed the following points and your long-distance bustrip will, possibly, be more comfortable:» Bring snacks and drinks by all means but don’tworry too much about this. A bottle of water is oftenhanded out on better-quality buses. There are usuallyno bathrooms on the bus, but frequent toilet-and-refreshmentstops (where everyone must get off the busto prevent anything being stolen) perforate the night –frustrating if you’ve just got to sleep and the bus stopsat 3am for ‘breakfast’.» Often the TV blares for much of the trip – usuallysticking with Myanmar-made concerts or moviesdetailing things such as, oh, protagonists dying bloodydeaths in car crashes, but the occasional Raiders ofthe Lost Ark slips in.» Take a jacket or blanket (preferably both) as temperaturescan drop substantially at night. And considerearplugs and an eye-mask as well if you plan tograb a little shut-eye between toilet stops.» Myanmar superstition says that when you’re on ajourney you shouldn’t ask anyone ‘How much longer?’,or ‘Brother, when will we arrive?’, as this is only temptingfate.» Try not to become alarmed when you see how somelocal passengers hold their breath whenever a bus approachesa particularly dodgy looking bridge.

lay and Bagan (from $280)to 10-day itineraries includingsights along the ChindwinRiver (from $3150).Journeys Myanmar (www.journeysmyanmar.com) Yangon-basedtour agent thatcan arrange river trips on awide range of luxury craft,including those listed here,and other options.Pandaw Cruises (www.pandaw.com) Offers varioushigh-end cruises aboard areplica of the teak-and-brassIFC fleet, such as a 14-nighttrip between Pyay andMandalay (from $3683 percabin, all inclusive) and a 20-day itinerary that charts theChindwin and upper reachesof the Ayeyarwady ($5828).Road to Mandalay (www.orient-express.com) Part ofthe Orient Express group,this joint-venture operationoffers cruises from three(from $2290) to 11 days(from $3330), which centreon Bagan and Mandalay.BusAlmost always faster andcheaper than trains, Myanmarbuses range from luxury airconexpress buses, less luxuriousbut nice buses (withoutair-con), local buses, and mini32-seaters. Most are operatedby private companies.Also see p 381 for informationon pick-up trucks, andthe boxed text, p 123 , for moreabout the luxury ElephantCoaches that can be hired fortransport around the country.Classes & ConditionsMany long-haul trips, suchas those from Yangon toMandalay, allow the greatestcomfort, with new(-ish) airconditionedexpress buses –some of which are quite nice.A lot of bus activity happensat night, with buses leavingbetween 4pm and 10pm orlater, and arriving at the finaldestination in the wee hours(often 5am or 6am). Thereare a couple of reasons forthis: local people can’t affordBUS ROUTESROUTE FARE (K) DURATION (HR)Bagan-Taunggyi10,50010Mandalay-Bagan65008Mandalay-Hsipaw 5000 6Mandalay-Taunggyi 6000 12Pyay-Taunggok10,00011Yangon-Bagan15,00015Yangon-Bago (Pegu)60002Yangon-Chaung Tha Beach80006-7Yangon-Kyaiktiyo 7000 4½Yangon-Mandalay11,00012-15Yangon-Pyay40007Yangon-Taunggyi 11,000 17Yangon-Thandwe 12,000 17-18to waste a working day on abus so prefer to travel overnight;and the buses don’toverheat as much by avoidingthe punishing midday sun.If you want extra air-concomfort but don’t want togo the whole way on one ofthese routes, you usually haveto pay the full fare (eg goingfrom Mandalay to Taungooyou pay the full fare to Yangon)and will have to deal withthe middle-of-the-night arrivaltime. Similarly, by paying thefull fare for the route, you canjump on a bus at a stop alongthe way, for example catchthe Mandalay-to-Yangonbus at Meiktila. Staff at yourguesthouse or hotel shouldbe able to help with this.Similar sized but older buses,with no air-conditioning,make shorter-haul trips, suchas direct links from Yangon toPyay or Taungoo to Yangon.Local 32-seat minibusesbounce along the highwaystoo. These tend to use theaisles, if not for blokes, forbags of rice, vegies or (worst)dried fish. Sometimes thefloor in front of you is filledtoo, so you’ll find your kneesto your chin for some bouncyhours. Getting up to stretchyour legs while moving justisn’t an option. (Try to sitin the front couple of rows,which sometimes have fewerbags stored, and bettervisibility.)Trip durations for all formsof public road transportationare very elastic and busesof all types do break downsometimes. Older buses oftenstop to hose down a hot engine.Some roads – one-lane,mangled deals (read: veryrough) – don’t help matters,and tyre punctures occur too.CostsYou can pay kyat for all busfares. Note, foreigners willpay more than locals – andon occasion the price is ‘set’on the spot. Generally minibuses,local 32-seaters, expressbuses with no air-con,and air-con luxury jobbiescharge roughly the same onoverlapping routes. The tableabove shows sample foreignerfares and trip times.ReservationsFrom November to February,it’s wise to pre-book buses acouple of days in advance forkey routes, such as Bagan–Inle Lake. Seat reservationsare made for all buses. Ask to377TRANSPORT BUS

378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the bus ahead of time tochoose the seat you’d like.Restricted RoadsForeigners are permitted tobuy bus tickets of any class,using kyat, to any destinationwithin or near the mainYangon–Bagan–Mandalay–Taunggyi quadrangle. We alsofound that buses were easilyboarded in most other placesin the country, except for acouple of tricky areas, liketravel towards the Thai border.Car & MotorcycleVisitors not wanting to takeplanes, or endure overnightbusbumps, frequently hire acar and driver for the bulk orentirety of a trip. It’s a goodway to go, though not alwayscheap. To drive one yourself,permission must be arrangedvia the government-run MTTand Road Transport AdministrationDepartment (RTAD;%01-36113), and you mustbe accompanied by a localat all times. (Some expatsbypass this with registrationfrom the RTAD.)Driving conditions canbe poor but are often betterthan on many roads inVietnam, Cambodia andLaos – and traffic is comparativelylight compared toROAD DISTANCES (miles)MawlamyineNay Pyi TawNyaungshweMandalayMyitkyinaSittweNgapali BeachHpa-anPyayPatheinNyaung UTaunggyi185265 335Thai or Vietnamese roads.Of the 15,000 miles of roadsin Myanmar, about half arepaved; the remainder aregraded gravel, unimproveddirt or simple vehicle tracks.Hiring a Car & DriverThe best place to arrange adriver, perhaps for a full trip, isin Yangon, but it’s possible totrack down a ‘taxi’ or ‘privatecar’ from most travel agenciesand guesthouses around thecountry, particularly in populardestinations like Bagan,Mandalay and Inle Lake.When trying to find a carwith driver, consider there arethree unofficial types of cars:» Tourist cars – theseare reasonably new, airconditionedcars run by acompany that provides backupor repairs in the eventthey break down. These arethe most comfortable – andthat air-con is handy whenit’s dusty and hot out – butthe most expensive, runningto about $80 to $100 a day,depending on the length ofthe trip. This price includespetrol for up to 12 hours’driving per day and all of thedriver’s expenses.» Airport taxis – a midrangeoption are the so-called‘airport taxis’ – often yellowtaxis that will be offering420 430 200420 500 185 175795 900 515 465 350430 590 620 610 605 915200 380 460 465 450 760 205155 70 310 480 470 785 565 355170 355 365 350 335 655 255 120 330140 315 390 565 615 925 380 165 295 280390 505 195 175 170 495 485 330 470 215 490415 485 200 15 175 495 605 450 445 340 545 175YangonMawlamyineNay Pyi TawNyaungshweMandalayMyitkyinaSittweNgapali BeachHpa-anPyayPatheinNyaung UApproximate distances onlyyou their service for yourtrip before you leave Yangonairport. These are older, mayor may not have working aircon,and run to about $50 to$60 per day.» Private cars – the cheapestoption are ‘private cars’,run by entrepreneur drivers.These go with windows down(ie no air-conditioning),vary in condition and pricedramatically, and there’sless chance that you’ll haveany sort of replacement ifthe engine goes out midwaybetween Bago and Taungoo.They can be found for as littleas $40 or $50 per day. Sometravellers tell us of greatexperiences with this option,others have problems.There are no car-rental agenciesper se, but most travelagencies in Yangon, Mandalayand Bagan – as wellas guesthouses and hotelselsewhere – can arrange carsand drivers.Among the most popularand reliable rental cars in thecountry are secondhand,reconditioned Toyota Coronahatchbacks imported from Japanfrom 1988. Such a car cancost a staggering $40,000.A slightly better quality car isthe Toyota Chaser (from 1990to 1992). Myanmar also assemblesits own Mazda ‘jeeps’(MJs) using 85% local parts.Though mostly a governmentmonopoly, these jeeps makedecent off-road vehicles. Theold US-made, WWII-era WillysJeeps that once characterisedoutback Myanmar travelare becoming few and farbetween.Petrol & TollsFuel stations were privatisedin 2010, but the governmentcontinued to subsidise petrolat K2500 per gallon. Manyof the private filling stationsare owned by domesticconglomerates such as HtooTrading and Max Myanmar(see p 26 ), but since they areforced to sell at the artificiallycapped rate, there has beenno incentive for them to ex-

ROAD RULES:TO THE RIGHT!All Myanmar trafficgoes on the right-handside of the road. Thiswasn’t always so. In aneffort to distance itselffrom the British colonialperiod, the militarygovernment instigatedan overnight switchfrom the left to the rightin 1970. By far, mostcars either date frombefore 1970, or are lowcostJapanese models,so steering wheels areperilously found on theright-hand side – thisbecomes particularlydicey when a driverblindly zooms to theleft to pass a car!pand their pump networks tomeet demand.The situation has sustainedthe black market forpeople to resell petrol theydon’t need – hence the longlines at the filling stations.By March 2011, the price incentral Myanmar at unofficialroadside stalls was aroundK4800 a gallon, while in Myitkyina(where there are onlytwo filling stations) it had hita high of K5500. That monththe government stepped in tolimit sales of the subsidisedfuel to 4 gallons per vehicleper day and started issuingration books.Another cost to considerwhen travelling by car is thecustomary K50 or K100‘toll’ collected upon enteringmany towns and villagesthroughout Myanmar. Manydrivers are adept at handingthese to the toll collectorswhile barely slowing down.The toll for private cars usingthe new expresswayfrom Yangon to Mandalay isK4500, while to Nay Pyi Tawit’s K2500.MotorcycleIt’s occasionally possible torent a motorbike, though fewlocals advertise this – and theauthorities frown on it sincethey don’t want to deal withthe complications of visitorsinvolved in accidents. InMandalay and Myitkyina, forexample, it’s K10,000 per dayto rent a motorbike. Unlikecyclists, you’re required towear a helmet in most towns.HitchingHitching is never entirely safein any country in the world,and we don’t recommend it.Travellers who decide to hitchshould understand that theyare taking a small but potentiallyserious risk. Peoplewho do choose to hitch willbe safer if they travel in pairsand let someone know wherethey are planning to go.One extra reason to avoidhitching in Myanmar is thatlocal drivers may not knowwhich areas are off limits toforeigners and may unwittinglytransport them into suchareas. In such cases the driverwill probably be punished.Local TransportLarger towns in Myanmaroffer a variety of city buses(ka), bicycle rickshaws ortrishaws (saiq-ka, for sidecar),horse carts (myint hlei),ox carts, vintage taxis (taxi),more modern little threewheelerssomewhat akin toThai tuk-tuks (thoun bein,meaning ‘three wheels’), tinyfour-wheeled ‘blue taxi’ Mazdas(lei bein, meaning ‘fourwheels’) and modern Japanesepick-up trucks (lain ka,meaning ‘line car’; see p 381 ).Small towns rely heavily onhorse carts and trishaws asthe main mode of local transport.However, in big cities(Yangon, Mandalay, Pathein,Mawlamyine and Taunggyi)public buses take regularroutes along the main avenuesfor a fixed per-personrate, usually K25 to K100.Standard rates for taxis,trishaws and horse cartsare sometimes ‘boosted’ forforeigners. A little bargainingmay be in order. Generallya ride from the bus stationto a central hotel – oftena distance of 1.25 miles ormore – is between K1000and K1500. Rides around thecentre can be arranged forbetween K500 and K800.You may need to bargain abit. Sometimes first time offersare several times higherthan the going rate.Pick-up TrucksJapanese-made pick-uptrucks feature three rows ofbench seats in the coveredback. Most pick-ups connectshort- distance destinations,making many stops alongthe way to pick up peopleor cargo. They are oftenpacked (yet somehow never‘full’ according to the driver).Pick-ups trace some usefulor necessary routes, suchas from Mandalay to Amarapura,from Myingyan toMeiktila, from Bagan to MtPopa, and up to the GoldenRock at Kyaiktiyo. Unlikebuses, they go regularly duringthe day.Fares are not necessarilycheaper than those chargedfor local bus trips of thesame length, and pricesoften go up more after dark.You can, however, pay 25% to50% extra for a seat up thefront. It’s often worth the extraexpense, if you don’t wantto do scrunch duty. Sometimesyou may share yourspot with a monk riding forfree; usually you get exactlywhat you pay for (‘the wholefront’), unlike in some otherparts of Southeast Asia.Pick-ups often start fromthe bus station (in sometowns they linger under a bigbanyan tree in the centre)and then, unlike many buses,make rounds through thecentral streets to snare morepassengers.379TRANSPORT HITCHING

380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Transport RoutesBHUTANKalaymyoHomalinNanhsanKyauk- LashioShwebo myaung HsipawMonywa Mingun KyaukmeSagaingPyin Oo LwinMandalayPakokku MyingyanMt VictoriaPindayaNyaung U MtBaganPindayaPopaMeiktilaMrauk U KyaukpadaungHeho TaunggyiThaziKalaw ShwenyaungInle KakkuSittweMinbu Magwe LakeNAY PYI TAWPyinmanaBANGLA-DESHBay ofBengalCHINA(TIBET)INDIAA N D A M A NS E AChindwinRiverTaunggokThandweNgapaliBeachChaung ThaNgwe SaungRiverAyeyarwadyThatonPatheinYangonTwanteMouths of theAyeyarwadyPangsawPassAyeyarwadyverRiKathaPyay TaungooShwedaungBagoKyaikkamiGulfofMottamaPutaoMyitkyinaBhamoRuiliMu-seKyaiktiyoHpa-anMawlamyineTachileikThanbyuzayatCHINAKengtungMae SaiChiangRaiLAOSTHAILANDDaweiBorder CrossingCities With Air Links (Some Require Permit)Towns With No Air LinksRail RouteBoat RouteYangon-Mandalay ExpresswayGovernment Permission RoutesThis map outlines major land and water routesyou can use in Myanmar. Some (including the roadsfrom Kengtung) require a government permit.KawthoungMyeikRanongGulfofThailand

ToursMany high-end hotels offerexpensive day tours. We listsources for less expensive,private guides throughoutthis book. Also see p 30 fortips on organising a ‘DIYpackage trip’.TrainThere are as many opinions ofMyanmar’s oft-maligned trainservice as there are peopleriding it. For some a train rideon narrow-gauge tracks is likegoing by horse, with the oldcarriages rocking back andforth and bouncing everyonelucky enough to have a seaton the hard chairs – sleep ispractically impossible; othersdig it, as some routes get toareas not reached by roadand the services provide achance to interact with locals.‘It’s not as bad as some peoplesay, not as good as youhope,’ one wise local told us.What’s certain is thatcompared to bus trips onthe same routes, taking thetrain means extra travel time,on top of which likely delays(over 12 hours is not unheardof) have to be factored in. Italso means extra expense.A 1st-class seat betweenYangon and Mandalay is$35; a bus ticket on an airconditionedbus is about $10.If you’re concerned aboutavoiding government-ownedbusinesses (see p 21 ), thentaking the train will also notbe on your to-do list.The NetworkFirst introduced by the Britishin 1877 with the opening of the163-mile line between Yangonand Pyay, Myanmar’s railnetwork continues to expand.According to governmentmouthpiece New Light ofMyanmar, in 2010 there were3357 miles of 3.3ft-gaugetrack and 858 train stations.Extensions to the network,adding another 2264 miles oftrack, are currently under constructionfrom Sittwe in thewest to Myeik in the south.The 386-mile trip fromYangon to Mandalay, viaBago, Nay Pyi Taw and Thazi,is the most popular trainride visitors take – thoughthere are plenty more routesfor the adventurous. Othersworth considering are Baganto Yangon, Mandalay (or PyinOo Lwin) train to Lashio (orHsipaw), which takes in hillyterrain the roads miss (PaulTheroux managed to do thisback when foreigners weren’tsupposed to, as described inhis book The Great RailwayBazaar), and the Yangon-to-Mawlamyine route.You can also take thepoke-along the line fromPyinmana to Kyaukpadaung(31 miles south of Bagan) orthe Thazi-to-Shwenyaungbranch (7 miles north of InleLake). From Yangon lines alsorun northwest to Pyay, with abranch to Pathein; from Bagothere’s a branch southeastto Kyaiktiyo (the jumping-offpoint for the Golden Rock)and on to Mottawa, a shortferry ride from Mawlamyine.An express line connectsBagan or Nyaung U with Mandalayfrom where there arethree other branch lines: onerunning slightly northwestacross the Ava Bridge andup to Ye-U, one directly northto Myitkyina in Kachin Stateand one northeast throughPyin Oo Lwin to Lashio in thenorthern part of Shan State.Note also that Myanmartrains are classified by anumber and the suffix ‘Up’ fornorthbound trains or ‘Down’for southbound trains. Trainnumbers are not always usedwhen purchasing tickets.Classes & FacilitiesExpress trains offer twoclasses of passage, upperclass and ordinary class,while many trains also offersleepers. The main differencebetween ordinary and upperis that the seats recline andcan be reserved in the latter,while ordinary class featureshard upright seats that can’tbe reserved. Some trainsalso offer another class ofservice called 1st class, whichis a step down from upper incomfort.Sleeper carriages accommodatefour passengers,have air-conditioning thatmay or may not work, linensand blankets and their owntoilet. We had one to ourselvesfrom Bagan to Yangonbut it was also sealed off withno through corridor to therest of the train. If you’d preferto move around the trainand meet fellow passengers,an upper class seat will bebetter.Long-distance trains havedining cars accessible topassengers in 1st, upper andsleeper class. The food isn’tbad – fried rice and noodles.Attendants can also takeyour order and bring food toyour seat or pass it throughthe window.Trains stop pretty oftentoo, with vendors on platformsoffering all sorts ofsnacks. Bathrooms are basic;there are also sinks to washhands and brush teeth. Attendantssometimes hire outbamboo mats to spread onthe floor in aisles or underseats if you can’t sleep upright.It can get cold at night,so bring a jacket and/or ablanket.The express trains are farsuperior to the general run ofMyanmar trains. Other trainsare late, almost by rule – takingone 12-hour train trip thatends up running as muchas 15 hours late is enoughfor most travellers. TheMandalay to Myitkyina route,though scheduled to takearound 24 hours, can takeup to 40 hours. Even on thefar-more-travelled Yangon–Mandalay route, delays arecommon particularly in therainy season when the tracksare prone to flooding.ReservationsFor most major routes youshould be able to buy ticketsdirectly at the train stations,using the same ticket381TRANSPORT TOURS

382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows as the locals. Paymentis usually required inUS dollars or FECs. Smallerstations sometimes requiresome perseverance to get aticket, as agents aren’t usedto foreigners climbing on.MTT is supposed to setaside seats for foreigners,which can mean they willhave seats when the bookingoffice or station windowsays that the train is full. Aday or two’s notice is usuallyenough to book a seat.If you want to try yourluck at getting a covetedsleeper, you’ll need at leasta couple of days’ notice –longer during the high season(November to March),when berths are sometimesbooked weeks in advance.If you hold a seat on a trainpulling a sleeper car, youcan try to upgrade to a berthafter you board by paying theadditional fare directly to theconductor.If you’re having troublebuying a ticket or makingyourself understood at atrain station, try seeking outthe stationmaster (yonepainin Burmese) – the personat the station who is mostlikely to speak English andmost inclined to help you geta seat.

the injection is usually recommendedas it has fewerside effects.Varicella (chickenpox) Ifyou haven’t had chickenpox,discuss this vaccination withyour doctor.383HealthThe following advice is ageneral guide only and doesnot replace the advice ofa doctor trained in travelmedicine.BEFORE YOU GO» Pack medications in theiroriginal, clearly labelledcontainers.» Carry a signed and datedletter from your physiciandescribing your medicalconditions and medications,including their genericnames.» If you have a heart conditionbring a copy of yourECG taken just prior totravelling.» Bring a double supply ofany regular medication incase of loss or theft.» Take out health insurance.VaccinationsProof of yellow fever vaccinationwill be required if youhave visited a country in theyellow-fever zone (ie Africa orSouth America) within the sixdays prior to entering Myanmar.Otherwise the WorldHealth Organization (WHO)recommends the followingvaccinations for travellers toMyanmar:Adult diphtheria andtetanus Single boosterrecommended if none in theprevious 10 years.Hepatitis A Providesalmost 100% protectionfor up to a year. A boosterafter 12 months providesat least another 20 years’protection.Hepatitis B Now consideredroutine for most travellers.Given as three shotsover six months. A rapidschedule is also available, asis a combined vaccinationwith hepatitis A.Measles, mumps andrubella (MMR) Two dosesof MMR are required unlessyou have had the diseases.Many young adults requirea booster.Polio There have been no reportedcases of polio in Myanmarin recent years. Adultsrequire only one booster forlifetime protection.Typhoid Recommended unlessyour trip is less than aweek and only to developedcities. The vaccine offersaround 70% protection,lasts for two to three yearsand comes as a single shot.Tablets are also available butWebsites &Further ReadingLonely Planet’s HealthyTravel – Asia & India ispacked with useful information.Other recommendedreferences include Travellers’Health by Dr RichardDawood and Travelling Wellby Dr Deborah Mills. Onlineresources include:Centres for Disease Controland Prevention (CDC;www.cdc.gov)MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com)Travelling Well (www.travellingwell.com.au)World Health Organization(www.who.int/ith/)IN MYANMARAvailability ofHealth CareMyanmar medical care isdismal, and local hospitalsshould be used only out ofdesperation. Contact yourembassy for advice, as staffwill usually direct you to thebest options. Be aware thatgetting Western-style healthcare may not come cheap.If you think you may havea serious disease, especiallymalaria, do not waste time –travel to the nearest qualityfacility to receive attention.It is always better to be assessedby a doctor than torely on self-treatment.Buying medication overthe counter is not recommendedin Myanmar, asfake medications and poorlystored or out-of-date drugsare common.

384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDiseasesThe following are the mostcommon for travellers:Dengue Fever Increasinglyproblematic throughoutMyanmar. The mosquito thatcarries dengue bites day andnight, so use insect avoidancemeasures at all times.Symptoms can include highfever, severe headache, bodyache, a rash and diarrhoea.There is no specific treatment,just rest and paracetamol– do not take aspirin asit increases the likelihood ofhaemorrhaging.Hepatitis A This food- andwater-borne virus infects theliver, causing jaundice (yellowskin and eyes), nauseaand lethargy. All travellers toMyanmar should be vaccinatedagainst it.Hepatitis B The onlysexually transmitted disease(STD) that can be preventedby vaccination, hepatitis Bis spread by body fluids,including sexual contact.Hepatitis E Transmittedthrough contaminated foodand water and has similarsymptoms to hepatitis A,but is far less common. It isa severe problem in pregnantwomen and can resultin the death of both motherand baby. There is currentlyno vaccine, and prevention isby following safe eating anddrinking guidelines.HIV Unprotected heterosexualsex is the main methodof transmission.Influenza Can be verysevere in people over theage of 65 or in those withunderlying medical conditionssuch as heart diseaseor diabetes; vaccination isrecommended for theseindividuals. There is nospecific treatment, just restand paracetamol.Malaria While not notedin Yangon or Mandalay,malaria (which can be fatalif untreated) is very muchpresent throughout the restof rural Myanmar in altitudesbelow 1000m. Before youtravel, seek medical adviceon the right medication anddosage for you; note thatsome areas of the countryhave strains of the diseaseresistant to Mefloquinebaseddrugs. Wherever youare, wear long pants andsleeves and spray insect repellentto prevent bites. Alsosleep in air-con or screenedrooms with bednets.Rabies A potential risk, andinvariably fatal if untreated,rabies is spread by the biteor lick of an infected animal(most commonly a dog ormonkey). Pretravel vaccinationmeans the postbitetreatment is greatly simplified.If an animal bites you,gently wash the wound withsoap and water, and applyiodine-based antiseptic. Ifyou are not prevaccinatedyou will need to receiverabies immunoglobulin assoon as possible.Typhoid This serious bacterialinfection is spread viafood and water. Symptomsinclude high and slowlyprogressive fever, headache,a dry cough and stomachpain. Vaccination, recommendedfor all travellersspending more than a weekin Myanmar and other partsof Southeast Asia, is not100% effective so you muststill be careful with what youeat and drink.Traveller’sDiarrhoeaBy far the most commonproblem affecting travellers isusually caused by a bacteria.Treatment consists of stayingwell hydrated; use a solutionsuch as Gastrolyte. Antibioticssuch as Norfloxacin,Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycinwill kill the bacteria quickly.Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’,but it can be helpful incertain situtations, eg if youhave to go on a long busride. Seek medical attentionquickly if you do not respondto an appropriate antibiotic.Amoebic dysentery isvery rare in travellers; onesign is if you have blood inyour diarrhoea. Treatmentinvolves two drugs: Tinidazoleor Metronidazole to kill theparasite in your gut, and thena second drug to kill the cysts.Giardiasis is relativelycommon. Symptoms includenausea, bloating, excessgas, fatigue and intermittentdiarrhoea. The treatmentof choice is Tinidazole, withMetronidazole being a secondoption.HEALTH ADVISORIESConsult your government’s website on health and travelbefore departure:» Australia www.smartraveller.gov.au» Canada www.phac-aspc.gc.ca/tmp-pmv/index-eng.php» New Zealand www.safetravel.govt.nz» UK www.dh.gov.uk» USA wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/EnvironmentalHazardsAir PollutionAir pollution, particularly vehiclepollution, is an increasingproblem, particularly inYangon. If you have severerespiratory problems speakwith your doctor before travellingto any heavily pollutedurban centres. This pollutionalso causes minor respiratory

DRINKING WATER» Never drink tap water.» Check bottled water seals are intact at purchase.» Avoid ice.» Avoid fresh juices – they may have been watereddown.» Boiling water is the most efficient method of purifyingit.» Iodine, the best chemical purifier, should not beused by pregnant women or those who suffer withthyroid problems.» Ensure your water filter has a chemical barrier, suchas iodine, and a pore size of less than four microns.problems, such as sinusitis,dry throat and irritated eyes.If troubled by the pollution,leave the city for a few daysand get some fresh air.DivingDivers and surfers shouldseek specialised advicebefore they travel to ensuretheir medical kit containstreatment for coral cuts andtropical ear infections, as wellas the standard problems.Divers should ensure theirinsurance covers them fordecompression illness – getspecialised dive insurancethrough an organisation suchas Divers Alert Network(DAN; www.danseap.org). Havea dive medical examinationbefore you leave your homecountry – there are certainmedical conditions that areincompatible with diving, andeconomic considerationsmay override health considerationsfor some dive operatorsthat operate in Myanmar.FoodRather than being overly concernedat street stalls, wherefood is freshly cooked toorder, note that eating in restaurantsis the biggest riskfactor for contracting traveller’sdiarrhoea. Avoid shellfish,and food that has beensitting around in buffets. Peelall fruit, cook vegetables andsoak salads in iodine waterfor at least 20 minutes. Eat inbusy restaurants with a highturnover of customers.HeatMany parts of Myanmar arehot and humid throughoutthe year. It can take up to twoweeks to adapt to the hotclimate. Swelling of the feetand ankles is common, as aremuscle cramps caused byexcessive sweating. Preventthese by avoiding dehydrationand excessive activity inthe heat.Dehydration is the maincontributor to heat exhaustion.Symptoms includefeeling weak; headache;irritability; nausea or vomiting;sweaty skin; a fast, weakpulse; and a normal or slightlyelevated body temperature.Treat by getting out of theheat, applying cool wet clothsto the skin, lying flat with legsraised and rehydrating withwater containing a quarter ofa teaspoon of salt per litre.Heatstroke is a seriousmedical emergency. Symptomscome on suddenly andinclude weakness, nausea,a hot dry body with a bodytemperature of over 41°C,dizziness, confusion, lossof coordination, fits andeventual collapse and loss ofconsciousness. Seek medicalhelp and commence coolingby getting the person outof the heat, removing theirclothes, and applying coolwet cloths or ice to theirbody, especially to the groinand armpits.Prickly heat –an itchy rashof tiny lumps –is caused bysweat being trapped underthe skin. Treat by movingout of the heat and into anair-conditioned area for afew hours and by having coolshowers. Creams and ointmentsclog the skin so theyshould be avoided.Insect Bites & StingsBedbugs Don’t carry diseasebut their bites are very itchy.They live in the cracks offurniture and walls and thenmigrate to the bed at night tofeed on you. You can treat theitch with an antihistamine.Bees or wasps If allergic totheir stings, carry an injectionof adrenaline (eg an EpiPen®)for emergency treatment.Jellyfish In Myanmar watersmost are not dangerous.If stung, pour vinegar ontothe affected area to neutralisethe poison. Take painkillersand seek medical adviceif your condition worsens.Leeches Found in humidrainforest areas. Don’t transmitany disease but theirbites can be itchy for weeksafterwards and can easilybecome infected. Apply aniodine-based antiseptic toany leech bite to help preventinfection.Lice Most commonly inhabityour head and pubic area.Transmission is via close contactwith an infected person.Treat with numerous applicationsof an antilice shampoo,such as Permethrin.Ticks Contracted after walkingin rural areas. If you arebitten and experience symptomssuch as a rash at thesite of the bite or elsewhere,fever, or muscle aches, see adoctor. Doxycycline preventstick-borne diseases.Skin ProblemsFungal rashes are commonin humid climates. There aretwo common fungal rashesthat affect travellers. Thefirst occurs in moist areas385HEALTH ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive less air, such asthe groin, the armpits andbetween the toes. It startsas a red patch that slowlyspreads and is usually itchy.Treatment involves keepingthe skin dry, avoiding chafingand using an antifungalcream such as Clotrimazoleor Lamisil. Tinea versicolor isalso common – this funguscauses small, light-colouredpatches, most commonly onthe back, chest and shoulders.Consult a doctor.Cuts and scratches easilybecome infected in humidclimates. Take meticulouscare of any cuts and scratchesto prevent complications,such as abscesses. Immediatelywash all wounds inclean water and apply antiseptic.If you develop signsof infection (increasing painand redness) see a doctor.Divers and surfers should beparticularly careful with coralcuts as they easily becomeinfected.SnakesMyanmar is home to manyspecies of both poisonousand harmless snakes. Assumeall snakes are poisonousand never try to catchone. Always wear boots andlong pants if walking in anarea that may have snakes.First aid in the event of asnakebite involves pressureimmobilisation with an elasticbandage firmly wrappedaround the affected limb,starting at the bite site andworking up towards the chest.The bandage should not beso tight that the circulation iscut off, and the fingers or toesshould be kept free so thecirculation can be checked.Immobilise the limb with asplint and carry the victimto medical attention. Do notuse tourniquets or try to suckthe venom out. Antivenom isavailable for most species.Women’s HealthPregnant women shouldreceive specialised advicebefore travelling. The idealtime to travel is between 16and 28 weeks, when therisk of pregnancy-relatedproblems is at its lowest andpregnant women generallyfeel their best. During the firsttrimester there is a risk ofmiscarriage and in the thirdtrimester complications –such as premature labourand high blood pressure – arepossible. It’s wise to travelwith a companion. Alwayscarry a list of quality medicalfacilities available at yourdestination and ensure thatyou continue your standardantenatal care at these facilities.Avoid rural travel in areaswith poor transportation andmedical facilities. Most of all,ensure that your travel insurancecovers all pregnancyrelatedpossibilities, includingpremature labour.Malaria is a high-riskdisease in pregnancy. WHOrecommends that pregnantwomen do not travel to areaswith Chloroquine-resistantmalaria. None of the more effectiveantimalarial drugs arecompletely safe in pregnancy.Traveller’s diarrhoea canquickly lead to dehydrationand result in inadequateblood flow to the placenta.Many of the drugs used totreat various diarrhoea bugsare not recommended inpregnancy. Azithromycin isconsidered safe.In Yangon and Mandalay,supplies of sanitary productsare readily available.Birth-control options may belimited, so bring adequatesupplies of your own formof contraception. Heat,humidity and antibioticscan all contribute to thrush.Treatment is with antifungalcreams and pessaries suchas Clotrimazole. A practicalalternative is a single tabletof Fluconazole (Diflucan).Urinary tract infections canbe precipitated by dehydrationor long bus journeyswithout toilet stops; bringsuitable antibiotics.TraditionalMedicineThroughout Myanmar traditionalmedical systems arewidely practised. There is abig difference between thesetraditional healing systemsand ‘folk’ medicine. Folk remediesshould be avoided, asthey often involve rather dubiousprocedures with potentialcomplications. In comparison,traditional healing systemssuch as Chinese medicine arewell respected, and aspectsof them are being increasinglyused by Western medicalpractitioners.All traditional Asian medicalsystems identify a vitallife force, and see blockageor imbalance as causingdisease. Techniques such asherbal medicines, massageand acupuncture are usedto bring this vital force backinto balance or to maintainbalance. These therapies arebest used for treating chronicdisease such as chronicfatigue, arthritis, irritablebowel syndrome and somechronic skin conditions.Traditional medicines shouldbe avoided for treating seriousacute infections, such asmalaria.Be aware that ‘natural’doesn’t always mean ‘safe’,and there can be drug interactionsbetween herbalmedicines and Western medicines.If you are using bothsystems ensure that you informboth practitioners whatthe other has prescribed.

WANT MORE?For in-depth languageinformation and handyphrases, check out LonelyPlanet’s Burmese Phrasebook.You’ll find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or youcan buy Lonely Planet’siPhone phrasebooks at theApple App Store.LanguagelanguageBurmese is part of the Tibeto-Burman languagefamily. As the national language ofMyanmar (Burma), it has over 40 millionspeakers, of whom more than 30 million use itas their first language. The variety of Burmeseof Mandalay and Yangon, spoken throughoutthe central area of Myanmar, is considered thestandard language. Many other languages arespoken in Myanmar, but with Burmese you’llbe understood in the whole country.There are two varieties of Burmese – oneused in writing and formal situations, theother in speaking and informal context. Themain differences are in vocabulary, especiallythe most common words (eg ‘this’ is di inspoken Burmese, but i in the written language).The phrases in this chapter are in theinformal spoken variety, which is appropriatefor all situations you’re likely to encounter.Note that many Burmese nouns are borrowedfrom English, though the meaning andsound may be somewhat different.In Burmese, there’s a difference betweenaspirated consonants (pronounced with apuff of air after the sound) and unaspiratedones – you’ll get the idea if you hold yourhand in front of your mouth to feel yourbreath, and say ‘pit’ (where the ‘p’ is aspirated)and ‘spit’ (where it’s unaspirated).These aspirated consonants in our pronunciationguides are said with a puff of air afterthe sound: ch (as in ‘church’), k (as in ‘kite’), ş(as in ‘sick’), t (as in ‘talk’); the following onesare pronounced with a puff of air before thesound: hl (as in ‘life’), hm (as in ‘me’), hn (as in‘not’), hng ( as in ‘sing’), hny (as in ‘canyon’).Note also that the apostrophe (’) representsthe sound heard between ‘uh-oh’, th is pronouncedas in ‘thin’ and ţh as in ‘their’.There are three distinct tones in Burmese(the raising and lowering of pitch on certainsyllables). They are indicated in our pronunciationguides by the accent mark above thevowel: high creaky tone, as in ‘heart’ (á), plainhigh tone, as in ‘car’ (à), and the low tone (a –no accent). Note also that ai is pronounced asin ‘aisle’, aw as in ‘law’, and au as in ‘brown’.BASICSBurmese equivalents of the personal pronouns‘I’ and ‘you’ have masculine andfeminine forms, depending on the genderof the person indicated by the pronoun.These forms are marked as ‘m/f’ in phrasesthroughout this chapter. Depending on thepronoun (ie ‘I’ or ‘you’), these abbreviationsrefer to the speaker or the person addressed.Hello. mgçlapå" ming·guh·la·baGoodbye. q∑a;my\ena\" thwà·me·nawYes. hut\k´." hoh’·géNo. hc\.Ac\;" híng·ìnExcuse me. eSar^;ena\" sàw·rì·nawSorry. eSar^;ena\" sàw·rì·nawPlease. tSit\elak\" duh·şay’·lau’Thank you. ek¥;z¨; jày·zùtc\påty\" ding·ba·deYou’re welcome. rpåty\" yá·ba·deHow are you? enekac\;la;" nay·gàung·làFine. And you? ekac\;påty\" gàung·ba·deKc\b¥a;/rċ\era" king·myà/shing·yàw (m/f)

uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s your name?namv\ By\li nang·me be·loheKÅql´"kaw·ţhuh·lèMy name is …k¥ena. \/k¥mjuh·náw/juh·mánamv\k -- - - på" nang·me·gá … ba (m/f)Do you speak English?Agçlip\liìng·guh·lay’·lohe®patt\qla;" byàw·da’·thuh·làI don’t understand.na;mlv\B¨;"nà·muh·le·bòoACCOMMODATIONWhere’s a …? - - - By\mȧl´" … be·hma·lèbungalow Bn\gliu buhng·guh·lohguesthouse tv\;KiuKn\; dè·koh·gànhotel hiuty\ hoh·teDo you have - - - ri˙qla;" … shí·ţhuh·làa … room?single ts\eyak\Kn\; duh·yau’·kàngdouble Nṡ\eyak\Kn\; hnuh·yau’·kàngtwin Kutc\Nṡ\luM; guh·ding·påt´.AKn\; hnuh·lòhng·ba·dé·uh·kàngHow much is it per night/person?ts\v/ts\eyak\ duh·nyá/duh·yau’By\elak\l´" be·lau’·lèIs there a campsite nearby?d^na;mȧdi·nà·hmasKn\;K¥sraenra suh·kàng·chá·zuh·ya·nay·yari˙qla;"shí·ţhuh·làDIRECTIONSWhere is …?- - - By\mȧl´" … be·hma·lèWhat’s the address?lip\sak Bal´"lay’·sa·gá ba·lèCould you please write it down?--er;mṫ\Ta;på" yày·hmuh’·tà baCan you show me (on the map)?(e®mpu MepÅmȧ)(myay·bohng·baw·hma)VWn\®pep;på"hnyoong·byá·bày·baTurn … - - - ekX>på" … gwáy·baat the corner lm\;eTac\.mȧ làng·dáung·hmaat the traffic m^;p∑oic\.mȧ mì·pwáing·hmalightsIt’s …behind … - - - Aenak\mȧ" … uh·nau’·hmafar away Arm\;ew;ty\" uh·yàng wày·dein front of … - - - er˙>mȧ" … sháy·hmaleft By\Bk\mȧ" be·be’·hmanear … - - - na;mȧ" … nà·hmanext to … - - - eB;mȧ" … bày·hmaright vaBk\mȧ" nya·be’·hmastraight er˙>tv\>tv\>mȧ" sháy·dé·dé·hmaaheadEATING & DRINKINGCan you - - - ts\Ku … duh·kúrecommend A”kMep;Niuc\mla;" uh·jang·bày·a …?naing·muh·làbar Ark\Siuc\ uh·ye’·şaingcafe eka\P^Siuc\ gaw·pi·şaingrestaurant sa;eqak\Siuc\ sà·thau’·şaingI’d like a/the - - - liuK¥c\påty\" … loh·jing·ba·de…, please.table for (4)eyak\sa (lày)·yau’·sa(four) sa;p∑´ zuh·bwènonsmoking eS;lip\ şày·lay’section meqak\rt´.enra muh·thau’·yá·dé·nay·yaI’d like (the) - - - ep;på" … bày·ba…, please.bill eBak\K¥a bau’·chamenu m^;N¨; mì·nùthat dish A´d^hc\;K∑k\ è·di hìng·gwe’wine list wiuc\sarc\; waing·suh·yìngCould you - - - mpåB´ … muh·ba·bèprepare a meal ®pc\ep;Niuc\mla;" bying·bày·without …?naing·muh·làbutter eTapt\ tàw·ba’eggs Âkk\U je’·úfish sauce cM®parv\ ngang·bya·yaymeat Aqa; uh·thàmeat stock Aqa;‘pt\rv\ uh·thà·byoh’·yayDo you have vegetarian food?qk\qt\l∑t\ sa;sra the’·tha’·lu’ sà·zuh·yar˙ iqla;"shí·ţhuh·làWhat would you recommend?BaA”kMep;ml´"ba uh·jang·pày·muh·lè

What’s the local speciality?d^¦mi>kspy\rẏ\di·myóh·gá suh·be·sheAsa;Asak Bal´" uh·sà·uh·sa·gá ba·lèCheers!K¥^;ya;"Key Wordschì·yàbreakfast mnk\sa muh·ne’·salunch en>lv\sa náy·le·zadinner vsa nyá·zasnack ASae®p uh·şa·byaysa;sra sà·zuh·yafruitAq^;AN˙Muh·thì·uh·hnangmeat Aqa; uh·thàvegetable hc\;q^;hc\;R∑k\ hìng·ţhì·hìng·ywe’bottle ts\pulc\; duh·buh·lìngbowl pn\;kn\luM; buh·gang·lòhngchopsticks t¨ doocup K∑k\ kwe’fork Kk\rc\; kuh·yìngglass Pn\K∑k\ pang·gwe’knife Da; dànapkin lk\qut\puwå le’·thoh’·buh·waplate pn\;kn\ buh·gangspoon z∑n\; zòongteaspoon lk\Pk\rv\z∑n\; luh·pe’·yay·zòongDrinks(cup of) eka\P^ gaw·picoffee … (1)K∑k\ - - - (duh·)kwe’ …(cup of) lk\Pk\rv\ luh·pe’·yaytea … (1)K∑k\ - - - (duh·)kwe’ …with milk Niu>n´> nóh·néwithout qÂka; ţhuh·jàsugar mpåB´ muh·ba·bèwine wiuc\ waingred An^ uh·niwhite A®Pø uh·pyubeer B^ya bi·yadrinking water eqak\er thau’·yayhot water ereN∑; yay·nwàySignsAwc\EntranceAT∑k\ExitP∑c\.Openpit\Ta;qv\ClosedAKn\;Aa;r˙iqv\VacanciesAKn\;Aa;mr˙ipåNo VacanciessuMsm\;rn\ InformationrśKn\;Police Stationta;®ms\ny\e®mProhibitedAim\qaToiletsk¥a;MenmWomenp¨HoteA;Coldmilk Niu> nóhmineral water erqn\>b¨; yay·ţháng·bòoorange juice lim\ema\rv\ layng·maw·yaysoft drink eP¥a\rv\ pyaw·yaysugarcane juice ”kMrv\jang·yayEMERGENCIESHelp! ky\på" ge·baGo away! q∑a;" thwàCall … - - - eKÅep;på" … kaw·bày·baa doctor Srawn\ şuh·ya·wungthe police r´ yèhI’m lost.lm\;ep¥ak\enty\"Where are the toilets?Aim\qa By\mȧl´"I’m sick.enmekac\;B¨;"It hurts here.d^mȧnaty\"làng·byau’·nay·deayng·ţha be·hma·lènay·muh·gàung·bòodi·hma na·deI’m allergic to (antibiotics).(Ac\t^Ba;erats\) (ing·di·bà·yàw·di’)n´>mt´ .B¨;"né muh·dé·bòoSHOPPING & SERVICESWhere can I buy (a padlock)?(eqa.Kelak\) By\mȧ (tháw·guh·lau’) be·hmawy\li u>rml´"we·lóh·yá·muh·lè389LANGUAGE EMERGENCIES

390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts\ di’2 Nṡ\ hni’3 quM; thòhng4 el; lày5 cå; ngà6 e®Kak\ chau’7 Kuns\ kung·ni’8 rṡ\ shi’9 kiu; gòh10 ts\Sy\ duh·şe20 Nṡ\Sy\ hnuh·şe30 quM;Sy\ thòhng·ze40 el;Sy\ lày·ze50 cå;Sy\ ngà·ze60 e®Kak\Sy\ chau’·şe70 Kuns\Sy\ kung·nuh·şe80 rṡ\Sy\ shi’·şe90 kiu;Sy\ gòh·ze100 ts\ra duh·ya1000 ts\eTac\ duh·towngCan I look at it?Âkv\>li u>rmla;"Do you have any other?t®Ka;r˙ ieq;la;"How much is it?dåBy\elak\l´"jí·lóh yá·muh·làduh·chà shí·ţhày·làda be·lau’·lèCan you write down the price?eZ;er;ep;på"zày yày·bày·baThat’s too expensive.eZ;”k^;l∑n\;ty\"zày·jì·lùng·deWhat’s your lowest price?Anv\;Su M;eZ;kuh·nè·zòhng·zày·gáBy\elak\l´"be·lau’·lèThere’s a mistake in the bill.d^e®psamȧ Amȧ;di·byay·za·hma uh·hmàpåenty\"ba·nay·deWhere’s a …? - - - ---By\mȧl´" … be·hma·lèbank B%\tiuk\ bang·dai’internet Ac\tank\ ing·ta·ne’cafe keP; gá·pàymarket eZ; zàypost office satiuk\ sa·dai’tourist office tiu;rs\RuM; dòh·yi’·yòhngTIME & DATESWhat time is it?AKu By\ AK¥in\l´"It’s (one) o’clock.ts\nar^ (r˙ i“p^)"It’s (two) o’clock.Nṡ\nar^ (r˙ i“p^)"uh·gòo be·uh·chayng·lè(duh·na·yi) shí·bi(hnuh·na·yi) shí·biHalf past (one).(ts\nar^) K∑ ´" (duh·na·yi) gwèmorning mnk\ - - - nar^ muh·ne’ … na·yiafternoon en .lv\ - - - nar^ náy·le … na·yievening ven - - - nar^ nyá·nay …na·yiyesterday men>k muh·náy·gátomorrow mnk\Pn\ muh·ne’·puhngMonday tnlçaen> duh·nìng·la·náyTuesday Agçåen> ing·ga·náyWednesday budÎh¨;en> boh’·duh·hòo·náyThursday Âkaqpet;en> jà·thuh·buh·dày·náyFriday eqaÂkaen> thau’·ja·náySaturday senen> suh·nay·náySunday tngçeN∑en> duh·nìng·guh·nway·náyJanuary zN~wår^l zuhn·nuh·wa·yi·láFebruary ePePa\wår^l pay·paw·wa·yi·láMarch mt\l ma’·láApril E“p^l ay·byi·láMay eml may·láJune g∑¥n\l joong·láJuly g¥øliuc\l joo·laing·láAugust Âqgut\l àw·goh’·láSeptember sk\tc\Bal se’·ding·ba·láOctober eAak\tiuBal ow’·toh·ba·láNovember Niuwc\Bal noh·wing·ba·láDecember d^zc\Bal di·zing·ba·láTRANSPORTPublic TransportIs this the då (ema\l¦mic\) da (maw·luh·… to q∑a;t´. myaing) thwà·dé(Moulmein)? - - - la;" … làboat qeBça thìng·bàwbus Bt\ska; ba’·suh·gàplane elya◊\ lay·yingtrain rTa; yuh·tà

uAt what time’s - - - Bt\ska; … ba’·suh·gàthe … bus? By\AK¥in\ be·uh·chayngT∑k\ml´" twe’·muh·lèfirst pTm buh·tuh·málast enak\SuM; nau’·şòhngnext enak\ nau’One … ticket (etac\”k^;) (daung·jì)to (Taunggyi), - - - lk\mṫ\ … le’·hma’please. ts\esac\ duh·zaungep;på"bày·baone-way Aq∑a; uh·thwàreturn Aq∑a; uh·thwàA®pn\uh·byangAt what time does it leave?By\AK¥in\ T∑k\ql´" be·uh·chayng twe’·thuh·lèHow long does the trip take?d^Kr^;k By\elak\ di·kuh·yì·gá be·lau’Âkaml´"ja·muh·lèDoes it stop at (Bago)?(pḰ¨;)mȧ rp\qla;" (buh·gòh)·hma ya’·thuh·làWhat’s the next station?enak\Bẗaknau’·boo·da·gáBaBẗal´"ba·boo·da·lèPlease tell me when we get to (Myitkyina).(®ms”k^;na;) erak\rc\ (myi’·jì·nà) yau’·yinge®papå"byàw·baIs this … d^ - - - di …available? Aa;qla;" à·ţhuh·làmotorcycle- Acȧ; uh·hngàtaxi ema\eta\Siuc\ky\ maw·daw·şaing·kerickshaw Siuk\ka; şai’·kàtaxi tk˚s^ de’·guh·siSightseeingmonument ATim\;Amṫ\ uh·tàyng·uh·hma’ek¥ak\tiuc\ jau’·taingmuseum ®ptiuk\ pyá·dai’old city ‘mi>ehac\; myóh·hàungpalace nn\;eta\ nàng·dawruins Ap¥k\As^; uh·pye’·uh·sìstatues Rup\Tu yoh’·tútemple est^ zay·diPlease take me to (this address).(d^lip\sa)ki(di·lay’·sa)·gohpi u>ep;på"bóh·bày·baPlease stop here.d^mȧrp\på"di·hma ya’ baDriving & CyclingI’d like tohire a …- - - cȧ;K¥c\påty\" … hngà·jing·ba·debicycle sk\B^; se’·bàyngcar ka; gàmotorbike ema\eta\Siuc\ky\ maw·taw·şaing·geIs this the road to (Moulmein)?då (ema\l¦mic\)da (maw·luh·myaing)q∑a;t´ .lm\;la;"thwà·dé·làng·làI need a mechanic.mk˚c\;ns\li uK¥c\påty\"I’ve run out of petrol.Dåt\S^kun\q∑a;“p^"I have a flat tyre.B^;epåk\enty\"muh·gìng·ni’ loh·jing·ba·deda’·şi gohng·thwà·bibàyng·pau’·nay·de391LANGUAGE GLOSSARYGLOSSARYSee p 335 for some usefulwords and phrases dealingwith food and dining.AbbreviationsAM – Air MandalayDIY – do it yourselfFEC – Foreign ExchangeCertificateIWT – Inland WaterTransportKIA – Kachin IndependenceArmyKNLA – Karen NationalLiberation ArmyKNU – Karen National UnionMA – Myanma AirwaysMTT – Myanmar Travels &ToursNDF – National DemocraticForceNLD – National League forDemocracyNMSP – New Mon StatePartySlorc – State Law & OrderRestoration CouncilSPDC – State Peace &Development CouncilSSA – Shan State ArmyUSDP – Union Solidarity &Development PartyUWSA – United Wa StateArmyYA – Yangon Airways

392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq longyi – longyi wovenwith intricate patternsand worn on ceremonialoccasionsa-le – opium weightsa-nyeint pwe – traditionalvariety of pweBamar – Burman ethnic groupbetel – the nut of the arecapalm, which is chewed as amild intoxicant throughoutAsiaBodhi tree – the sacredbanyan tree under whichthe Buddha gainedenlightenment; also ‘bo tree’Brahman – pertaining toBrahma or to early Hindureligion (not to be confusedwith ‘brahmin’, a Hindu caste)chaung – (gyaung) stream orcanal; often only seasonalcheroots – Myanmarcigars; ranging from slim tomassive, but very mild, asthey contain only a smallamount of tobacco mixedwith other leaves, roots andherbschinlon – extremely popularMyanmar sport in which acircle of up to six playersattempts to keep a rattanball in the air with any partof the body except the armsand handschinthe – half-lion, halfdragonguardian deitydeva – Pali-Sanskrit word forcelestial beingsdhamma – Pali word for theBuddhist teachings; calleddharma in Sanskriteingyi – traditional longsleevedshirt worn byMyanmar menflat – covered pontoon usedto carry cargo on a river;often up to 98ft longfurlong – obsolete Britishunit of distance still usedin Myanmar; one-eighth ofa milegaung baung – formal,turbanlike hat for men;made of silk over a wickerframeworkgu – cave templehaw – Shan word for‘palace’, a reference to thelarge mansions used by thehereditary Shan sao phahgnet – swallow-tailed boathintha – mythical, swanlikebird; hamsa in Pali-Sanskrithneh – a wind instrumentlike an oboe; part of theMyanmar orchestrahpongyi – Buddhist monkhpongyi-kyaung –monastery; see also kyaunghsaing – traditional musicalensemblehsaing waing – circle of drumsused in a Myanmar orchestrahtan – (tan) sugar palmhti – umbrella-like decoratedpinnacle of a stupahtwa – half a taungin – lake; eg Inle meanslittle lakeJataka – stories of theBuddha’s past lives; acommon theme for templepaintings and reliefskalaga – embroideredtapestrieskamma – Pali word for thelaw of cause and effect;called karma in Sanskritkammahtan – meditation;a kammahtan kyaung is ameditation monasterykammawa – lacqueredscriptureskan – (gan) beach; can alsomean a tank or reservoirkaraweik – a mythical birdwith a beautiful song; alsothe royal barge on Inle Lake;karavika in Palikutho – merit, what youacquire through doing good;from the Pali kusalakyaik – Mon word for payakyauk – rockkyaung – (gyaung) MyanmarBuddhist monastery;pronounced ‘chown’kye waing – circle of gongsused in a Myanmar orchestrakyi – (gyi) big; eg Taunggyimeans big mountainkyun – (gyun) islandlàn – road or streetlei-myet-hna – four-sidedbuddha sculptureLokanat – Avalokitesvara,a Mahayana Bodhisattva(buddha-to-be) andguardian spirit of the worldlongyi – the Myanmar unisexsarong-style lower garment;sensible wear in a tropicalclimate; unlike men in mostother Southeast Asiancountries, few Myanmarmen have taken to WesterntrousersMahayana – literally ‘GreatVehicle’; the school ofBuddhism that thrived innorth Asian countries likeJapan and China, and alsoenjoyed popularity for a timein ancient Southeast Asiancountries; also called theNorthern School of Buddhismmakara – mythical sea serpentmi-gyaung – crocodile lutemudra – hand position; usedto describe the various handpositions used by buddhaimages, eg abhaya mudra (thegesture of fearlessness)Myanma let-hwei – Myanmarkickboxingmyit – rivermyo – town; hence Maymyo(after Colonel May),Allanmyo (Major Allan) oreven Bernardmyomyothit – ‘new town’,usually a planned newsuburb built since the 1960snaga – multiheaded dragonserpentfrom mythology,often seen sheltering orprotecting the Buddha; alsothe name of a collection oftribes in northwest Myanmarnat – spirit being with thepower to either protect orharm humansnat-gadaw – spirit medium(literally ‘spirit bride’);embraces a wide variety of nat

nat pwe – dance performancedesigned to entice a nat topossess a nat-gadawngwe – silvernibbana – nirvana orenlightenment, thecessation of suffering, theend of rebirth; the ultimategoal of Buddhist practiceoozie – elephant handler ormahoutpagoda – generic Englishterm for zedi or stupa as wellas temple; see also payapahto – Burmese word fortemple, shrine or otherreligious structure with ahollow interiorPali – language in whichoriginal Buddhist texts wererecorded; the ‘Latin’ ofTheravada Buddhismpa-lwe – bamboo flutepaq-ma – Myanmar bass drumparabaik – folding Buddhistpalm-leaf manuscriptsparinibbana – literally,final nibbana; the Buddha’spassing awaypattala – bamboo xylophoneused in the Myanmarorchestrapaya – a generic Burmeseterm meaning holy one;applied to buddha figures,zedi and other religiousmonumentspe-sa – palm-leafmanuscriptspin – (bin) banyan treepi ze – traditional tattooing,believed to make the wearerinvulnerable to sword or gunpwe – generic Burmeseword for festival, feast,celebration or ceremony;also refers to publicperformances of song anddance in Myanmar, often allnight(and all-day) affairspyatthat – wooden,multiroofed pavilion, usuallyturretlike on palace walls, asat Mandalay PalaceSanskrit – ancient Indianlanguage and source ofmany words in the Burmesevocabulary, particularlythose having to do withreligion, art and governmentsao pha – ‘sky lord’, thehereditary chieftains of theShan peoplesaung gauq – 13-stringed harpsawbwa – Burmesecorruption of the Shan wordsao phasaya – a teacher or shamansayadaw – ‘master teacher’,usually the chief abbot of aBuddhist monasteryshinpyu – ceremoniesconducted when young boysfrom seven to 20 years oldenter a monastery for a shortperiod of time, required ofevery young Buddhist male;girls have their ears piercedin a similar ceremonyshwe – goldensikhara – Indian-style,corncob-like temple finial,found on many temples inthe Bagan areasima – see theinsoon – alms food offered tomonksstupa – see zedit’ămìn zain – (htamin zain)rice shopTatmadaw – Myanmar’sarmed forcestaung – (daung) mountain,eg Taunggyi means ‘bigmountain’; it can also meana half-yard (measurement)taw – (daw) a commonsuffix, meaning sacred, holyor royal; it can also meanforest or plantationtazaung – shrine building,usually found around zedithanakha – yellowsandalwood-like paste, wornby many Myanmar women ontheir faces as a combinationof skin conditioner, sunblockand make-upthein – ordination hall; calledsima in PaliTheravada – literally ‘Wordof the Elders’; the school ofBuddhism that has thrivedin Sri Lanka and SoutheastAsian countries such asMyanmar and Thailand; alsocalled Southern Buddhismand Hinayanathilashin – nunThirty, the – the ‘30comrades’ of BogyokeAung San who joined theJapanese during WWIIand eventually led Burma(Myanmar) to independencethoun bein – motorisedthree-wheeled passengervehiclesTripitaka – the ‘threebaskets’; the classic Buddhistscriptures consisting of theVinaya (monastic discipline),the Sutta (discourses of theBuddha) and Abhidhamma(Buddhist philosophy)twin – (dwin) well, hole orminevihara – Pali-Sanskrit wordfor sanctuary or chapel forbuddha imagesviss – Myanmar unit ofweight, equal to 3.5lbvotive tablet – inscribedoffering tablet, usually withbuddha imageswa – mouth or river or lake;Inwa means ‘mouth of thelake’wa leq-hkouq – bambooclapper, part of theMyanmar orchestrayagwin – small cymbalsYama pwe – Myanmarclassical dancing based onIndian epic the Ramayanaye – water, liquidyodaya zat – Ayuthayatheatre, the style of theatrebrought into Myanmar withThai captives after the fall ofAyuthaya in 1767yoma – mountain rangeyouq-the pwe – Myanmarmarionette theatreywa – village; a commonsuffix in place names suchas Monywazat pwe – Myanmar classicaldance-drama based onJataka storieszawgyi – an alchemist whohas successfully achievedimmortality throughthe ingestion of special393LANGUAGE GLOSSARY

394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltdcompounds made from basemetalszayat – an open-sidedshelter or resthouseassociated with a zedizedi – stupa, a traditionalBuddhist religiousmonument consisting of asolid hemispherical or gentlytapering cylindrical coneand topped with a variety ofmetal and jewel finials; zediare often said to containBuddha relicszei – (zay or zè) marketzeigyo – central market© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fairto ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In otherwords, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, massemail it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditionson our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’