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and services, leave to marinate with enviouslyattired and proportioned rooms and,voila, it’s the Mother Land Inn 2. There areof course downsides, namely it’s often fullybooked and is located in a slightly dodgy’hood a long walk or a short taxi ride fromthe centre. But the free airport transfer, fastinternet access (per hour $1) and a solidbreakfast more than make up for them.Governor’s Residence BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$(Map p 46 ; %229 860; www.governorsresidence.com;35 Taw Win St; r $154-242, ste $279-319; aiWs)If you’d like to live like a sovereign, this UKownedteak mansion of period elegance andmodern luxury in the leafy embassy district isfor you. In the ’20s the Governor’s Residencewas a guesthouse for important nationalsof the Kayah ethnic group, but now, after amasterful restoration, it’s a tourist’s ideal ofcolonial luxury. A waiter with a crystal cocktailis always on hand and the pool mergesgently into the lawns and sparkles in reflectedbeauty. The glorious rooms have ever-solightlyperfumed air, teak floors, cloudy softbeds and stone baths with rose-petal water.Panorama Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %253 077; panoramaygn@myanmar.com.mm; 294-300 Pansodan St; r $30-40, ste $45-50; aiW) Within walking distance of thetrain station and Bogyoke Market, and boastingdistant views over the Shwedagon Paya,the aptly named 10-storey Panorama offerssome of the best value in this price range. Allrooms are equally vast and similarly well appointed,so unless you really require a bathtub,save yourself some money by going forone of the cheaper standard rooms.May Shan Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 46 ; %252 986; www.mayshan.com; 115 SulePaya Rd; s/d/tr $20/25/40; aiW) It’s not exactlya steal, and the single rooms are prettytight and lack windows, but the combinationof convenient location, gracious serviceand ample amenities (TV, air-conditioning,wi-fi) make the May Shan the best optionin the area immediately surrounding SulePaya. If you can afford it, the triple rooms(ask for room 601) are spacious and have arguablythe best views of any hotel in the city.Three Seasons Hotel GUESTHOUSE $(Map p 42 ; %293 304; phyuaung@mptmail.net.mm;83-85 52nd St; s/d $12/18;a) The nine rooms inthis homey guesthouse are large, spotless andwell endowed with everything that wouldmake your granny smile. The outdoor terrace,with tree shade, is a nice place to sit andwatch the world cruise by. And to top it off,it’s very friendly and helpful and is located ona block that is especially quiet at night, so youshould be able to sleep undisturbed.Okinawa Guest House HOTEL $(Map p 46 ; %374 318; 64 32nd St; dm/s/d$5/14/18;a) A brief walk from Sule Payais the red pitched roof of this charmingbougainvillea-fronted guesthouse. The interioris a bizarre hotchpotch of decorationsand building styles that blend wood, bambooand red brick. The handful of roomsare small and dark but very clean, althoughnoise – both from the street and the staff –can be an issue here. It also has a cosy dormupstairs for penny-pinchers and a numberof communal areas with old wooden chairsand tables.Parkroyal BUSINESS HOTEL $$$(Map p 46 ; %250 388; enquiry@parkroyalhotels.com.mm; 33 Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; r $90; aiWs) This smart, newish, centrally locatedbusiness hotel is the Yangon branch of aSingaporean chain. If you’re haven’t bookeda room through an agent, you’ll only haveaccess to their very capable deluxe rooms,which feature all the amenities you’d expectfrom a hotel of this price. The Parkroyal isalso the only hotel we’re aware of in Yangonthat accepts a credit card (in this case, Visaonly) – at a hefty 12% commission.Thammada Hotel HOTEL $$(Map p 42 ; %243 3639; www.thamadahotel.com; AhLan Paya Pagoda Rd; r/ste $44/88;a) Located inthe same complex as the Thamada Cinema,this longstanding joint venture with Singaporeboasts old-school rooms with lots ofworn wood and heavy, handsome furnishings.Take a look at a few, as some rooms aremarkedly smaller than others. The groundfloor365 Café is convenient for eats, drinksand wi-fi.Yoma Hotel HOTEL $(Map p 42 ; %299 243; www.yomahotelone.com; 146Bogyoke Aung San Rd; r $10-18;a) Although it’s abit of a hike from the city centre, this is one ofthe tidier and better-run midrange places intown. The rooms are a bit frumpy and clearlydate from another era, but are well equippedand clean. There are five floors and no lift, soif you’re on the top floor you can eat that extracake without guilt. A tip: avoid the roomson Floor G unless you desire the combinationof comically low ceilings and furry friends.53YANGON SLEEPINGSLEEPING