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154TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESBAGAN IN …Many visitors set aside just two days in Bagan even though you can easily spend fouror five days here and still leave much unexplored. Adapt the following itineraries to suityour plans or consider just renting a bike and heading off to view thousands of otherrandom sights – the real pleasure of Bagan comes from a leisurely soaking up of itsscale and time-slip atmosphere.One DayStick to the Old Bagan area starting at the Tharabar Gate then heading south toBagan’s most popular temple, Ananda Pahto and west to Thatbyinnyu Pahto, nearwhere you can climb up the old city wall.Just west is where King Anawrahta stored all the non-Buddhist images at NathlaungKyaung. Back on the main road, backtrack towards Tharabar Gate and detour on thegravel road for a river view from Bupaya.In the afternoon visit lacquerware shops in Myinkaba, climb up the hidden stairs inmodern Manuha Paya and see the bas-relief figures in Nan Paya. Finish up at one of thechoice sunset spots: Pyathada Paya is the adventurous option, east of Myinkaba ongoat-herd trails, or play it safe with the easily accessible (hence crowded) ShwesandawPaya, near Old Bagan.Two DaysHaving followed the one-day plan, now tick off other highlights starting with DhammayangyiPahto, Bagan’s largest temple. Take the paths east to the gorgeous SulamaniPahto and escape the crowds at its neighbouring ‘mini-me’ version, Thabeik Hmauk,which is also a good (and generally uncrowded) place to for sunset viewing.Another lovely view can be had from the terrace of Dhammayazika Paya in theSouth Plain area east of Myinkaba. While out this way visit Leimyethna Pahto for itswell-preserved frescoes and Pyathonzu, which also houses 13th-century murals.Four DaysOn day three many itineraries will have you heading out of the immediate Bagan areato Salay, another area sprinkled with old temples and monasteries, and/or Mt Popa,famous for its picturesque, nat- (spirit-) infested hilltop temple. Both places are interesting,but if you’d rather stay closer to Bagan, schedule visits to Abeyadana Pahto andNagayon in Myinkaba and the frescoes in Lawkahteikpan Pahto. Adventurous half-dayboat trips can be made down or across the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) to more remotetemples – the bonus being a chance to sail back into town at sunset.additional sights, accommodation, eatingand transport options, see p 113 . The templesare all shown on the map on p 152 .Old Baganpug®®Dmúui¾eh;='"The most practical part of Bagan to tourby foot (with water and a hat), this roughlycounterclockwise 1-mile circuit takes in templeswithin the old city walls.Gawdawpalin PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEegòet;plñ='puqiu"Standing 197ft tall, Gawdawpalin is oneof the largest and most imposing Bagantemples – though not necessarily the mostinspiring, with its modernised altar andtile floors inside. Built during the reign ofNarapatisithu and finished under that ofNantaungmya, it’s considered the crowningachievement of the late Bagan period.Its name means ‘Platform to which Homageis Paid’. The most recent homage was itsheavy-duty reconstruction following terrificdamage sustained in the 1975 earthquake(it stands near the quake’s epicentre). Thestairs to the top terrace are closed to visitors.Mimalaung KyaungMONASTERYmI"mel;='ekY;='"A nice set of chinthe (half-lion/half-dragondeity) guards the stairway leading up this