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5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dining scene lacks the charm andvariety of Yangon’s or even Pyin Oo Lwin’s, butthere are several new semi-stylish cafes and afew faithful old standbys. Surprisingly, few ofthese are near the main downtown travellerarea. There’s a sprinkling of decent if touristcentricoptions towards the southeast eastcorner of the palace moat. Things are muchlivelier south of the centre, notably down 78thSt (university district around the Theik Pan Stcrossing), along 73rd St (31st to 35th St) andspread more thinly beside Kandawgyi Lake.NORTHERN MANDALAYoToo Too Restaurant BURMESE $(Map p 204 ; No 79 27th St, 74/75; meals from K2500;h10am-8.30pm) Too Too’s dining area is anuninteresting box room hidden away in a sidealley, but many consider it the place in Mandalayfor home-style local fare. Meals are pickedfrom a buffet-like spread, but the set pricecovers only one main curry, one side dish, riceand soup. Extras cost K500 to K1000.Ko’s Kitchen THAI $$(Map p 204 ; %31265; 80th at 19th St; soups & dishesK3560-5000, snacks K2500, rice K600; h<strong>11</strong>.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm; aE) Ko’s cooks a wideselection of Thai dishes, including Lao/north Thai chilli-dips and the usual curriesand noodles, plus a particularly tasty crispycatfish salad with mango and cashews(K4000). It’s in an art deco building, but thepeach-coloured interior is starting to look alittle tired, and dirty glass dividers rather defeatthe point of a show kitchen.BBB WESTERN $$(Map p 204 ; %73525; 76th St, 26/27; meals K5500-7250, burgers K2750, beer K1650; h9am-10pm; E)Tablecloths, attentive waiters and a pitchedwooden ceiling create the feel of an oldworldski-lodge. Food includes many fishand seafood options, which are competentand elegantly presented without being trulygastronomic. Decent Burmese red winecosts K2500 per glass.Green Elephant BURMESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61237; 27th St 64/65; mains/extras/rice6000/2400/1200, set menu per personK8000; h8.30am-3pm & 5-9.30pm; aE) Consistentlyrecommended for regional cuisine.A few tables are within a Pyin Oo Lwin-stylecolonial-era building full of period relics.Others spill out into a bamboo-tufted gardenand a bigger pavilion for group dining.Spice Garden INDIAN $$(Map p 206 ; %6<strong>11</strong>77; Hotel on the Red Canal, 22ndSt at 63rd; mains $3-8, beer $4; h6am-10.30pm;E) Spread over two storeys this luminouslybright, wooden-framed restaurant serves upsome of Mandalay’s most authentic Indianfood, along with set-menu European andBurmese dinners ($10 to $15). Fair value,though the drinks can get pricey. Appealinggarden seating also available.Café City WESTERN $$(Map p 206 ; %61237; East Moat Rd 20/22; mealsK5500-6600, burgers K2200, draught beer K1200;h9am-10.30pm; E) Neon and old enamelsigns add to the feeling of a comfortable, latter-dayAmerican diner. Food choice (steaks,pizza, English triangular sandwiches) supportsthe idea, but there’s plenty that’s moreimaginative including the delicious, verygenerous coconut basted fish kebabs. Goodcoffee too (espresso K1000). It’s popular withwealthy locals on a casual family outing.Marie-Min VEGETARIAN $$(Map p 206 ; off 27th St, 74/75; dishes K1300-2000,rice K300; h8.30am-9pm, closed Jun; E) Onan upper balcony above an antiques shopon a residential alley, the friendly Englishspeakingowners have tailored a short menuto their stated principles: ‘Be kind to animalsby not eating them.’ Highlights includeall-day breakfasts, guacamole, veg curry,stomach-safe lassis (K1500) and deliciousaubergine dip. If you’re hungry, you’ll probablyneed to order two dishes.Peacock Lodge BURMESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61429; see p 204 ; set dinner K8000;hby arrangement) Real home-cooked Burmesemeals cooked to order are servedbeneath giant parasols in the guesthouse’slovely peaceful garden. However, you’ll needto order a day in advance.A Little Bit of Mandalay BURMESE, CHINESE $$(Map p 206 ; %61295; 65th St 27/28; mains K4000-5000, rice K1000, set menu per person K9000, beerK3500; h<strong>11</strong>am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm; E) Woodenbucket-lamps, back-lit parasols and plinkinglocal harp melodies bring atmosphere to thistourist-oriented pavilion restaurant with abamboo-weave roof. Bringing your own wineincurs a modest K2000 corkage charge.CENTRAL MANDALAYV Café/Skybar INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 206 ; 25th St at 80th St; mains/burgersK5000/2000, espresso/draught beer/cocktails215MANDALAY EATING & AROUND & DRINKINGEATING & DRINKING

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