lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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148BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–BAGAN HIGHWAYTaung (Tax Mountain). The mountain isnamed for the crafty toll-takers from themid-19th century, who spent the hours betweentaxing boats by carving reclining andmeditating buddhas into the steep cliff.To get there, you’ll need to taxi across theAyeyarwady to Htonbo (q®u".iurâC), a villageabout 90 minutes by road from Pyay, thenhire a boat (about K15,000) for the 45-minutelook. To do so, you must bring a copy of yourpassport or visa to show the strict immigrationofficers in Htonbo.For some visitors, it’s too much travel forminimal payoff. A return taxi to Htonbofrom Pyay (sometimes with Shwedaungthrown in) takes around two hours one-wayand costs about $20.Magwemekâ"%063About 155 miles north of Pyay and 93 milessouth of Salay, Magwe’s locale on the AyeyarwadyRiver is nice enough, as is the impressive1.8-mile Magwe Bridge. Beyond this,however, it’s a place of dilapidated buildingsrunning along a confusing web of leafystreets and limited services, and not particularlygood accommodation. Still, if you’retravelling along the bumpy road connectingBagan and Pyay, you’ll probably wantto break your journey here and the stretchyour legs around the ‘sights’.Famously, the capital of Magwe Divisionsat out of the 1988 prodemocracy marches.1SightsMagwe’s chief pagoda, the 1929 Mya ThaLun Paya, a mile north of the bridge, featuresa gilded stupa and occupies a hilltopsite with great river views.Just across the river, about the same distancenorth of the bridge, is Minbu and thefun Nga Ka Pwe Taung (Dragon Lake), aburping pool of butane gas and mud thathas (over the years) built a few acres oflunar-like terrain with bubbling pools atopfour odd mounds. The sludge isn’t hot; ifyour toes slip in, wash them off below at asmall pagoda. The largest mound is namedThu Sei Ta and the second largest Nanda, forthe mythical Dragon King’s daughter andson, respectively. It’s about a 30-minute taxiride here from the centre.4Sleeping & EatingSein San Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $(%23799; B-185 16th St, Ywathit Quarter; r $15, s/dwith shared bathroom $8/12; a) Very simple,with stone floors, mint-green walls and thinmattresses on the beds. But the staff arefriendly and speak English and the price isappropriate. It’s on a quiet backstreet, midwaybetween the bus station and the river.Htein Htein Tar HOTEL $$(%23499; 234 17th St, Ywathit Quarter; s/d $25/40;a) Around the corner from the Sein San.Laughably overpriced, this motel-like placeoffers big but tatty rooms.Rolex Guest House GUESTHOUSE $(%23536; cnr Mya Than Lun Rd & AyeyarwadyBridge; s/d with air-con K10,000/18,000, with fanK8000/12,000; a) This bare-bones guesthouse,on the roundabout facing the bridgeentry, has simple concrete-floored roomswith cold-water bathrooms attached. It’seasy to find, but suffers from traffic noise.Central Restaurant CHINESE $$(Pyitawthar Rd; dishes K2000-4000; h7am-10pm)Handy for the bus station, this reasonablyclean-looking Chinese restaurant serves theusual noodle and rice dishes, including hotand sour chicken. It’s next to the Zin YawGuesthouse, which doesn’t accept foreigners.Monalizar 2 CHINESE, BAMAR $$(dishes from K1500; h7am-10pm) On the river,just south of the bridge, this is a very populardrinking spot that also serves passable food.As the sun dips across the river, locals (mostlyguys) hit the beer and whisky as a crew of<strong>11</strong> start up the 7pm music and dance show.8Getting There & AroundMagwe’s highway bus station is about 1.5 mileseast of the central market. Yangon-bound busesalso stop in Pyay, but you’ll still need to pay thefull fare to Yangon even if you get off there. Busesfrom Magwe go to the following destinations:Nyaung U (K6000, four hours, departure 6am or7am), Pyay (K4000, seven hours, departure 9am),Yangon (K7500, 12 hours, departure 5.30pm) andMandalay (K5500, 10 hours, departure 6.30pm).IWT ferries between Pyay and Mandalay stopin Magwe. The IWT office (%21503) is one blocktowards the river from the market’s north side.Motorised trishaws – with room for you and afew mates – tout their services at the bus station.A ride from the station to Nga Ka Pwe Taungand a stop at Monalizar 2 costs about K8000.
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANG
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few yea
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from th
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80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor dec
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONB
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Page 110 and 111: 112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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Page 114 and 115: 116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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Page 150 and 151: KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
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Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
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Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
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Legend claims that many figures wer
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ÉÉSTART EINDAWYA PAYAFINISH VIEW
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105 and 206 are windowless. You can
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5Eating & DrinkingMandalay’s dini
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Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ;
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pay commissions to drivers or guide
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WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
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MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is p
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high and 9ft in circumference. The
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will probably be charged $3 for a M
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TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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State and Xishuangbanna (China) in
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239» Journeys are fastest in autum
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INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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merous remnant bricks and posts rem
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lock inland from there are the hote
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IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dol
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St, with many beer stations in the
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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