lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

140BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAYUppatasanti PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEwp¹:toNÿiectIAn act of merit-making by General ThanShwe and his wife, this 321ft tall golden pagoda– 1ft smaller than Yangon’s ShwedagonPaya – is impressive from afar (especiallywhen illuminated at night), but close up betraysits hasty construction with poor finishes.Nevertheless, the vast interior is lined withsome vivid carved-stone murals depictingthe life and legend of Buddha and key scenesfrom Myanmar’s Buddhist history. Foreignersare supposed to pay a $5 entry charge, but noone asked us for it when we showed up.At the foot of the pagoda’s east side is acovered, open-sided enclosure where twofabled white elephants – 38-year-old Buddawadiand 18-year-old Nandawadi – standchained and munching bamboo. Along withtwo females, who are more dusky pink thanwhite, there’s also a regular two-year-oldblack elephant for comparison. Between10am and 4pm the elephants are unchainedand disappear from public view to roam thegrazing ground to the rear.Zoological Garden & Safari ParkZOOtircü;n'r®u NH=¾' z;f;rIwyY;w'(zoo admission $10, photo charge K2000; h8.30am-8pm Tue-Sun) A good 45-minute drive northeastof the hotel zone (and closer to Pyinmana) arethese animal-focused attractions, both run bythe government. As zoos go, it’s not a badlykept place – many of its inhabitants wereshifted here from Yangon’s decrepit colonialerazoo. Spread across 612 acres are over 80different species of animal, bird and reptile,including hippos, lions, deer, bison, crocodilesand several elephants. There’s also an airconditionedpool house for black-footed andHumboldt penguins, and a planetarium.Next door, more wild beasts roam thesafari park (admission $20; h8.30am-4.30pm),which opened in 2011 and is toured on electriccanopy-covered buggies – you’ll be gladof these in the heat of the day. The 35-acrefacility, home to zebras, rhinos, tigers and apair of giraffes, is divided into sections showcasingthe fauna of Africa, Asia and Australia.Other SightsWater Fountain GardenPARK(admission K200, camera charge K1000; h8.30am-8.30pm) More or less at the heart of Nay PyiTaw is this government-built grassy park,which boasts a viewing platform, water features(perhaps turned on) and cheaply constructedand already crumbling decorativestructures bedecked with twinkling fairylights at night.Gem MuseumMUSEUM(Yarza Thingaha Rd; entrance $5; h9.30am-4.30pmTue-Sun) The one-room exhibition hall at thisgovernment-run museum is a snooze. Havesome fun walking around faster than theattendants who scuttle behind switchingon and off the lights in cabinets displaying,among other things, pearls, rubies, silverware,jade and a big lump of coal. Downstairs,listless jewellers and gem merchantshawk their wares.National MuseumMUSEUMThis new museum was under constructionin the north of the city during our visit;we’re told it’s likely that original pieces currentlyin Yangon will be replaced by copiesand the originals will be moved here.4SleepingForeign visitors must stay in the hotel zonewhere new complexes are sprouting likedaisies next to the villa-style resort AureumPalace and Royal Kumudra, owned by businessesaffiliated with the government (seep 21 ). Forced to build quickly, constructionand decorative standards are woeful andmost places are overpriced. However, a coupleof the smaller places are worth consideringif you decide to overnight.Tungapuri Hotel HOTEL $$(%422 020; www.tungapurihotel.com; 9/10 YarzaThingaha Rd; s/d from $25/35; aW) A Shanconstructor built this small hotel, which hassome appeal. The cheapest rooms are in thebasement, where the singles don’t even havewindows; it’s better to pay an extra $10 ormore for the superior and deluxe rooms onthe upper floors. Staff are very welcoming.Oasis Hotel HOTEL $$(%422 088; oasis.naypyitaw@gmail.com; 12 YarzaThingaha Rd; r/ste $50/200; ai) The moststylish of Nay Pyi Taw’s smaller hotels, theOasis’ suites are overpriced, but do comewith Jacuzzi baths and small kitchenettes.Not open at the time of research, but in theworks, is a fancy Chinese restaurant.5Eating & DrinkingThere’s a cluster of places to eat and drinkatop what is known as Golden Hill, includingthe fancy but quiet Golden Hill Restaurant.At the foot of the hill, in the evenings,food and tea stalls set up shop. There’s also a