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and travel to the border areas is still subjectto government restrictions.Kengtung (Kyaingtong)kYŸi='"tu®%084 / POP C20,000The second-biggest city in Shan State, Kengtung(Kyaingtong), pronounced ‘ChengDong’, is the capital of the Golden Triangleregion and one of the most attractive townsin Myanmar. In culture and appearance,it feels closer to the hill towns of northernThailand and southern China, and the vastmajority of the town’s residents belong toone of several Tai ethnic groups: Shan, TaiLü, Tai Khün and Tai Nuea.For years, Kengtung was caught in thecrossfire between rival drug lords, but peacehas returned to the quiet, pagoda-linedstreets. The rugged terrain of eastern ShanState contributes to the sense of isolation –Kengtung is an outpost of development in asea of largely deforested mountains, whereWa, Eng, Shan, Akha and Lahu tribal peoplefollow a way of life that has changed little incenturies. Needless to say, treks to hill-tribevillages are a major attraction.1Sights & ActivitiesThe Central Market draws people from allover the Kengtung district, including tribalpeople from the hills. The market has lots ofstalls selling food and household items, includingthe coins, buttons, beads and threadsused to decorate tribal costumes. Twice aweek, there’s a water-buffalo market on theroad leading to Taunggyi. You probably won’tbe able to fit a buffalo into your backpack butit’s interesting to watch the traders hagglingfor the best price on a used beast of burden.The old British enclave in Kengtung wascentred on the small Naung Tung lake, apopular spot for morning and evening strolls.There are several decaying colonial buildingsabove the lake shore, including the handsomeColony House (Mine Yen Rd). On theroad leading towards Taunggyi, the RomanCatholic Mission and Immaculate HeartCathedral have been providing an educationfor hill-tribe orphans since colonial times.Monasteries & TemplesIf there were many more Buddhist monasteriesin Kengtung, people would have nowhereleft to live. The town’s many monasteries arecalled wat rather than kyaung, and localmonks wear both orange and red robes, reflectingthe close cultural links to Thailand.The gilded stupa of Wat Jong Kham(Zom Kham) rises majestically above thecentre of town. Legend dates the wat to avisit by Gautama Buddha but a more likelydate for the stupa is the 13th-century migrationfrom Chiang Mai. In the middle of thetraffic roundabout below Wat Jong Kham,Wat Mahamuni (Maha Myat Muni) is a classicThai-style wat with a richly painted interior.Just north of Airport Rd, Wat In containsa stunning collection of ancient gildedwooden buddha images in all shapes, sizesand positions. Chinese residents of Kengtungworship at the appealing Chinese Buddhisttemple near the immigration office.Pointing dramatically towards the mountainson a ridge overlooking Naung Tunglake, the 60ft-high standing buddha statueknown as Ya Taw Mu is probably the mostdistinctive landmark in Kengtung. Nextto the statue is a small Cultural Museum(h10am-4pm Tue-Sat; admission $2) with costumes,farming implements and other tribalobjects, some inexplicably painted silver.Potentially interesting, but when we visitedno-one knew where the key was.You can see the dome-shaped stone Mausoleumsof the Tai Khün Princes on theeast end of Mine Yen Rd.Day Trips Around KengtungThe hills of eastern Shan State are dottedwith the villages of the Eng, Lahu Akha,Palaung, Loi, Lishaw, Shan and Wa tribes,many of which can be visited on guidedtreks from Kengtung.At research time, overnight trips werenot allowed, and you will need to obtain advancepermission from Kengtung’s immigrationoffice to visit any of the below.The most popular destination is Pin Tau,only 9 miles north of town, where it’s possibleto visit the villages of several tribes ina single day.Ho Kyim, approximately 10 miles southof Kengtung, is home to several Loi andAkha and Lahu villages. And Wan Nyekand Wan Saen, near the Chinese border atMong La (miu='"lC"), are two villages wherethe Loi people still live in traditional longhouses.Loi-mwe (lây'emâ), 20 miles southeast ofKengtung, functioned as a second-tier hillstation in the British era and you can stillsee a number of fading colonial buildingsand a 100-year-old Catholic church.193KENGTUNG EASTERN MYANMAR & BORDER SIGHTS KENGTUNG AREAS & SIGHTS ACTIVITIES(KYAINGTONG)& ACTIVITIES