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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBOOKS ABOUTMRAUK UThere are several useful books onRakhaing history and Mrauk U. MyarAung’s paperback Famous Monumentsof Mrauk-U (2007; K3500) is sold ata couple of places in Mrauk U, includingthe Bandoola Monastery and theWaddy Htut Guest House; it has lotsof photos but its poorly translated textisn’t the easiest to follow. Far better isPamela Gutman’s scholarly Burma’sLost Kingdom: Splendours of Arakan(2006), Tun Shwe Khine’s artful AGuide to Mrauk U (1993) and U ShweZan’s more detailed The Golden MraukU: An Ancient Capital of Rakhine(1997), all of which you should searchout before heading to Mrauk U.buddha images, inscribed stone slabs (a15th-century one features ancient Arabicwriting), cannons, Wethali-era coins and ahelpful model of the Mrauk U site. Old photoson the walls include a before-restorationshot of Ratanabon’s crack. Items are signedin English, although foreign scholars notethat the dates on some pieces should betaken with a pinch of salt. If you come on aweekend, ask next door for the key.Haridaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEhCrietC='.ur;"Built around 1750, this small white templewith particularly good westward views, is ona hilltop just north of the palace walls. It’s agood place to get your bearings or to viewsunset.SOUTH GROUPSouth of the palace site and across the riverare evocative, easy-to-lose-your-way backlanes through thatched-hut villages and ahost of pagodas. About half a mile south, theLaksaykan Gate leads to the eponymouslake, a source of clean water.Bandoola KyaungBUDDHIST MONASTERYbNÖŸlekY;='"Climb the steps to view this rambling hilltopmonastery, home to yet another of buddha’smany scattered molars, a relic broughthere from Sri Lanka in the 16th century. Thecomplex is also known as the Sanda MuniPhara Gri Kyaung, after the Sanda Muni, abuddha statue said to have been cast fromthe precious metal leftover from making theMahamuni buddha (p 287 ).Legend has it that this 4ft image was encasedin cement in the 1850s to protect itfrom pillaging British troops, and then forgottenabout for over a century. In April 1988one of the glazed eyes dropped out, revealingthe metal statue below. It’s now housedin a new building to the rear of the main hallpacked with more ancient buddha imagesthat the monks will happily explain to you.They will also point out a large copper rooftile (used as a table top), saved from MraukU’s palace after the Burmese carted the restoff to Mandalay back in the 18th century.Shwetaung PayaBUDDHIST TEMPLEer¯etC='.ur;"Southwest of the palace, the ‘Golden Hill Pagoda’is the highest in Mrauk U; you can seeit for nearly half the trip from Sittwe. Builtby King Minbin in 1553, it’s accessed by a fewtrails largely lost under thick vegetation. Thisis a good spot from which to view sunrise.zFestivals & EventsOne of the most interesting times to visitMrauk U is during the huge weeklong payapwe (pagoda festival) held near DukkantheinPaya (p 282 ) in mid-May which includesmusic, dance, traditional wrestlingand boat racing.4SleepingGenerators keep power going most of theday and night at some guesthouses; otherwiseexpect power to be on only from 7am to3pm and 6pm to 11.30pm.oShwe Thazin Hotel HOTEL $$(%24200, ext 50168, 09 850 1844; www.shwethazinhotel.com; Sunshaseik Quarter; r from $50; a)This new complex offers the best balance ofprice, comfort and location. There’s a smallbut welcome amount of artistic design in itschalet-style rooms, all of which are en-suitewith a satellite TV and a fridge.Mrauk U Princess Hotel RESORT $$$(%50232, 09 850 0556; www.mraukooprincessresort.net; s/d $170/194; ai) Mrauk U’s mostluxurious digs, the Princess offers 21 beautifullydecorated wooden villas with freshflowers adorning the bed, the bathtub andtables. Gardens and ponds (mosquitoes!)surround the villas and the central monastery-likerestaurant and spa. Rates include