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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDAY TRIPS FROM SITTWEHave a day to spare? Consider takingone of the following boat trips, both ofwhich can be arranged by Khine PyiSoe (p 279 ). The most potentially interestingis to the weaving village Wabo(K60,000, plus $20 for an Englishspeakingguide) a 90-minute boat ridefrom Sittwe, to see Rakhaing-style longyibeing made; the Rakhaing are knownin Myanmar as skilled weavers who canproduce intricate designs in their cloths.The other is to hilly Baronga Island(K60,000), across the wide KaladanRiver, to see a typical fishing village.$6/12) English-speaking staff with somehandy travellers’ advice make up for therather dingy rooms (small, with a fan anda mosquito net and coil) and shared bathroomsyou’ll want to wear sandals in. Checka few rooms before choosing – some are betterthan others. There’s also a lone ‘familyroom’ with private bath and air-con (runningfrom 7pm to <strong>11</strong>pm only) that is $10/$15per single/double.New Palace Hotel HOTEL $(%21996; 5 Main Rd; s/d from $10/16) Is everythingelse full? Little is new about the Palace.Rooms are rundown and a bit depressing.Spring a few extra dollars for the brighterrooms on the upper floors.5Eating & DrinkingoGisspanadi CHINESE, RAKHAING $(Minbargyi Rd; dishes K2000-4500; h6am-10pm)This friendly, family Chinese-Burmese restaurant– along a strip of eateries, just east ofcity hall – is a standard spot, busy with localmen sitting over tables of fried fish fingers(better than they sound), grilled prawns andMyanmar beer bottles.Mondi Stand RAKHAING $(May Yu St; bowl K200; h6am-6pm) Mondi is theRakhaing-style fish noodle soup downed bylocals for breakfast. It’s similar to mohingabut comes with chillies not peanuts, and ofteneel not fish. Sittwe’s best – many claim –is served at the tiny mondi stand facing thecity hall. If you’re feeling frisky ask for theultra spicy abu shabu. Students from thenearby university pour in for lunch.Mya Teahouse BAMAR $(51/6 Bowdhi Rd; tea K200; h6am-5pm) Sit onbright-blue plastic chairs under shady treesamid the potted plants and flowers at thisdelightful teahouse: a perfect place to reviveover a cuppa with various sweet and savourysnacks. Good for a breakfast of fried rice ormohinga, too.Utingdameer INDIAN $(Main Rd; meal K1000; h10am-3pm) At the backof the compound in which the Jama Mosquesits, this family-run canteen dishes up a bargainlunch of several tasty curries and vegetabledishes with rice.Moe Plearl TEAHOUSE, BAKERY $(80 Main Rd; cakes K100-200; h6am-7pm) Runfor 20 years by the same Chinese family, thissmart little bakery and cafe is a good spot tostock up on biscuits, cakes and savouries forjourneys, or to rest and enjoy a tea or coffee.River Valley SeafoodRestaurant CHINESE, RAKHAING $$(5 Main Rd; set meals K300-5000; h7am-10.30pm)Popular with many foreigner visitors,Sittwe’s fanciest restaurant offers open-airspace and wall murals, including a largeblown-up photo of a tattooed-faced Chinwoman. The menu lists many seafood options,plus a handful of spicy Rakhaing-styledishes. Some waiters wear bowties.May Yu CHINESE, RAKHAING $$(Strand Rd) Seafood spot done up like aCaribbean shack, with a blue-and-greenwood house and plank-board deck facingthe water.View Point RAKHAING $$Simple restaurant on Bay of Bengal, 1.5miles south of the centre via Strand Rd.8InformationYou are highly likely to encounter a certain localtout (at the time of research going by the nameof Mr Learn) when you arrive (and no matterhow you arrive, he’ll fi nd you). His rates for boattransfers are not above the norm but he will tryto secure commissions for arranging whateveryou do (such as boats to Mrauk U or hotels inSittwe). He’s harmless, but persistent enough toannoy some travellers. Also see www.<strong>lonely</strong><strong>planet</strong>.com/<strong>myanmar</strong>-<strong>burma</strong> for further informationon travelling in Myanmar.Outside the generator-run midrange hotels,electricity runs generally from 6pm to <strong>11</strong>pm only.In the rainy season, clouds can sometimes cuttelephone communication. Sittwe’s hospital

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