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and travel to the border areas is still subjectto government restrictions.Kengtung (Kyaingtong)kYŸi='"tu®%084 / POP C20,000The second-biggest city in Shan State, Kengtung(Kyaingtong), pronounced ‘ChengDong’, is the capital of the Golden Triangleregion and one of the most attractive townsin Myanmar. In culture and appearance,it feels closer to the hill towns of northernThailand and southern China, and the vastmajority of the town’s residents belong toone of several Tai ethnic groups: Shan, TaiLü, Tai Khün and Tai Nuea.For years, Kengtung was caught in thecrossfire between rival drug lords, but peacehas returned to the quiet, pagoda-linedstreets. The rugged terrain of eastern ShanState contributes to the sense of isolation –Kengtung is an outpost of development in asea of largely deforested mountains, whereWa, Eng, Shan, Akha and Lahu tribal peoplefollow a way of life that has changed little incenturies. Needless to say, treks to hill-tribevillages are a major attraction.1Sights & ActivitiesThe Central Market draws people from allover the Kengtung district, including tribalpeople from the hills. The market has lots ofstalls selling food and household items, includingthe coins, buttons, beads and threadsused to decorate tribal costumes. Twice aweek, there’s a water-buffalo market on theroad leading to Taunggyi. You probably won’tbe able to fit a buffalo into your backpack butit’s interesting to watch the traders hagglingfor the best price on a used beast of burden.The old British enclave in Kengtung wascentred on the small Naung Tung lake, apopular spot for morning and evening strolls.There are several decaying colonial buildingsabove the lake shore, including the handsomeColony House (Mine Yen Rd). On theroad leading towards Taunggyi, the RomanCatholic Mission and Immaculate HeartCathedral have been providing an educationfor hill-tribe orphans since colonial times.Monasteries & TemplesIf there were many more Buddhist monasteriesin Kengtung, people would have nowhereleft to live. The town’s many monasteries arecalled wat rather than kyaung, and localmonks wear both orange and red robes, reflectingthe close cultural links to Thailand.The gilded stupa of Wat Jong Kham(Zom Kham) rises majestically above thecentre of town. Legend dates the wat to avisit by Gautama Buddha but a more likelydate for the stupa is the 13th-century migrationfrom Chiang Mai. In the middle of thetraffic roundabout below Wat Jong Kham,Wat Mahamuni (Maha Myat Muni) is a classicThai-style wat with a richly painted interior.Just north of Airport Rd, Wat In containsa stunning collection of ancient gildedwooden buddha images in all shapes, sizesand positions. Chinese residents of Kengtungworship at the appealing Chinese Buddhisttemple near the immigration office.Pointing dramatically towards the mountainson a ridge overlooking Naung Tunglake, the 60ft-high standing buddha statueknown as Ya Taw Mu is probably the mostdistinctive landmark in Kengtung. Nextto the statue is a small Cultural Museum(h10am-4pm Tue-Sat; admission $2) with costumes,farming implements and other tribalobjects, some inexplicably painted silver.Potentially interesting, but when we visitedno-one knew where the key was.You can see the dome-shaped stone Mausoleumsof the Tai Khün Princes on theeast end of Mine Yen Rd.Day Trips Around KengtungThe hills of eastern Shan State are dottedwith the villages of the Eng, Lahu Akha,Palaung, Loi, Lishaw, Shan and Wa tribes,many of which can be visited on guidedtreks from Kengtung.At research time, overnight trips werenot allowed, and you will need to obtain advancepermission from Kengtung’s immigrationoffice to visit any of the below.The most popular destination is Pin Tau,only 9 miles north of town, where it’s possibleto visit the villages of several tribes ina single day.Ho Kyim, approximately 10 miles southof Kengtung, is home to several Loi andAkha and Lahu villages. And Wan Nyekand Wan Saen, near the Chinese border atMong La (miu='"lC"), are two villages wherethe Loi people still live in traditional longhouses.Loi-mwe (lây'emâ), 20 miles southeast ofKengtung, functioned as a second-tier hillstation in the British era and you can stillsee a number of fading colonial buildingsand a 100-year-old Catholic church.193KENGTUNG EASTERN MYANMAR & BORDER SIGHTS KENGTUNG AREAS & SIGHTS ACTIVITIES(KYAINGTONG)& ACTIVITIES
194e#Kengtung (Kyaingtong)ATo Harry's TrekkingHouse (1.5mi); PinTau (9mi)‚BC8 Ú##e0 400 m0 0.25 milesDEASTERN MYANMAR KENGTUNG & BORDER AREAS124 Ü#Kan RdÚ#9Naung YarngLakeNaungTungTo Bus Station (500m);Water BuffaloMarket (800m)34‚Pha Yang RdMai YangRd<strong>11</strong> ÿ#3 # æKyainge ÿ#Tong NewHotelTachileik-Taunggyi Rd (Main Rd)AMine Yen RdÚ#6Wat JongÚ#Kham (ZomKham)Ú#719#Zay Tan GyiSt520 # ú#15#ä22 #ú#16# ñ# ðKyainNyanRd24 #›10ÿ#ÿ#14# æ 1 #›23B‚Zeigyi RdKyange Rd18 #þ2 Ú#Zaydankalay RdYang KonRd#Hospital# îÿ#12C21Tachileik RdTo Ho Kyim(10mi)‚Airport RdLoi Mwe RdD‚<strong>11</strong>7 To Private13 ú#Hotel (500m);ÿ#Pann Gabar(1mi); Airport(2mi); Wan Nyek & WanSaen (53mi)234The main attraction, though, is the drive uphere through a classically Asian landscape ofdense forests and terraced rice fields.Guide fees start at $15 per day, not includinglunch. Keep in mind that you willalso have to factor in the cost of getting tothe trailheads by taxi – a further K36,000to K65,000, depending on how far afieldyou go. Transportation can be arranged atHarry’s Trekking House and Princess Hotel.Recommended guides include Sai Leng(%09-490 31470; sairoctor.htunleng@gmail.com),Freddie (Yot Kham; %09-490 31934; yotkham@gmail.com) and Paul (Sai Lon; %09-490 30464,22812).If you don’t have the time or funds for atrek, a good self-guided walk can be hadalong the former road to Mong La, now colloquiallyknown as Yang Kon Rd. The areais home to several Shan families who earna living by making pottery and khao sen(fermented rice noodles), the latter madeby a laborious process of boiling, poundingand squeezing. Your walk terminates atWat Yang Kon, known among locals for thedecorative robes covering the main buddhastatue.zFestivals & EventsKengtung’s Chinese community celebratethe Chinese New Year in early Februarywith the usual firecracker-charged festivities.For Buddhists, the big calendar event isthe Water Festival in April, when everyonegets a dousing, including visitors.4SleepingThe accommodation scene in Kengtungwill inspire few postcards home. As is thecase elsewhere in Myanmar, breakfast is includedin the fee and electricity is scarce;most hotels run generators from about 7pmto 10pm.
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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