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NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city streets are laid out on a grid system and numbered from east to west (upto 49th) and north to south (over 50th). A street address that reads 66th (26/27) meansthe place is located on 66th St between 26th and 27th Sts. Corner addresses are givenin the form 26th at 82nd St. Some of the longer east–west streets can also take namesonce they cross the Shweta Chaung (Shweta Canal) heading west. Hence 19th St becomesInwa St, 22nd St becomes Pinya St, 26th St becomes Bayintnaung Rd and 35thSt becomes Yangyiaung Rd. But even here the numbered address system still works.The ‘downtown’ area runs roughly from 21st St to 35th St, between 80th St and 88thSt. Across the tracks, 78th St is developing into the main site for big shopping malls;73rd St is also bustling as it leads down to the university. Major east–west thoroughfaresinclude 26th and 35th Sts plus 19th St east of the moat.HistoryAccording to Burmese myths, Buddha himselfvisited Mandalay Hill (see p 201 ) andalso found time to scuttle up a riversidebluff (p 225 ) in the guise of a chicken. In lesslegendary epochs, Mandalay didn’t actuallytake shape as a city until 1857. Its brief, ifmomentous, period as a tailor-made Burmesecapital lasted from only 1861 until theBritish take-over in 1885. However, severalother post-Bagan capitals lay very close totoday’s city (see p 224 ). On several occasionsnew kings sought to build their legacy byfounding a new capital, often transportingbuilding materials with them, meaninglittle remained at the old site. The longestlasting of these was Inwa, known to Europeansas Ava.MANDALAY%02 / POP C1,100,000 / ELEV 244FTThe natural focus of the city is an abrupthill, rising above a vast moated and walledsquare. It once contained the sprawlingroyal city but apart from reconstructedMandalay Palace at the very centre, this isnow a sparse, mostly out-of-bounds area ofmilitary encampments. Today the city’s centresprawls for miles, the commercial heartlying south and west of the fort. Quieter monasticdistricts are further west towards theAyeyarwady River.1SightsNORTHERN MANDALAYIf you’re fed up with visiting pagodas, thisarea also has a swimming pool (p 210 ), golfcourse and zoo (Map p 204 ; admission K2000;h8am-5pm), the latter built in 1989 to covera site used during the 1988 demonstrations.Mandalay HillLANDMARKmNÿel"et;='(Map p 204 ; camera/video fee K500/1000) To geta sense of Mandalay’s pancake-flat sprawl,climb the 760ft hill that breaks it. The viewpointis especially popular at sunset whenyoung monks converge on foreigners for languagepractice.For many visitors the 45-minute barefootclimb (all on covered stairways) is a majorpart of the experience, but you’ll need atleast a minimum level of fitness. The mostcommon starting point is at the south, eitherbetween two giant chinthe (guardianlion-dog creatures) or by another stairwaystarting further southeast where theBobokyi Nat (spirit statue) watches overthe entrance. The routes converge a littlesouth of a large standing Buddha, whopoints an outstretched arm towards theroyal palace. No, he’s not playing Lenin, butrather indicating the location of Myanmar’sfuture capital. According to legend, the Buddha,accompanied by his disciple Ananda,really did climb Mandalay Hill and prophesiedthat, in the 2400th year of his faith, agreat city would be founded below the hill.By our calendar that 2400th year was 1857,the year that King Mindon did indeed decreethe capital’s move from Amarapura toMandalay.Further up is the Myatsawnyinaung OrdinationHall. It’s a large, forgettable concreteaffair that most people walk straight through.But if you cross the hall and look out to thenortheast, you’ll spy the remnants of a threestoreystone fort. Back on the main pathway,steep steps lead past a memorial to Britain’sRoyal Berkshire Regiment who retook thatfort from the Japanese in March 1945.As you near the summit, the plethora ofsouvenir stands and ‘Hello Water’ womenMANDALAY SIGHTS& AROUND SIGHTS
202MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYGreater Mandalay #e1234567Strand Rdf#20#û#15# ÿ 6Thinga19ACanalYarzar1 # Ú5# ÚAyeyarwady RiverShwe InBin Kyaung# Ú14ü## æ3#Ú 241st StPinya St91st St26th St87th St89th St89th St87th St86th StB38th St85th StSHANDISTRICTSaigaing-Mandalay Rd14th St16th StInwa St21st St84th St35th St666666666MyaukPyin(North # £Mandalay)82nd St19th St20th St66666627th St28th St30th St32nd St34th St# £ MandalaySee Northern Mandalay Map (p204)ww ww80th St79th StNo entry forforeigners78th St# ÿ7Fort Moat76th St75th StNo entry forforeignersZoo#ëMandalay#âPalace & FortMandalayPalaceNo entry forforeignersGolfCourseNorth Moat St (12th St)To Pyi Gyi MyatGold Pounders'17Shin bus station#ð Workshop û#13# þ(800m)ú#10 #þ æ## ÿ81812ú# û# 9 û#<strong>11</strong>ý#1682nd St18th StSee Central Mandalay Map (p206)21#›81st St80th St‚C39th St10th St<strong>11</strong>th St0 1 km0 0.5milesDToTaungbyone76th St7373rd St‚thStNgwe Ta Chaung Canal26th St28th St29th St32nd St33rd StUniversity70th StYay Ni Canal‚To Rupar Mandalar(1.5mi)68th St‚1234567A4#æBMahamuni# ÚPayaCTheikPanStD
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANG
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few yea
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from th
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80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor dec
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONB
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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118BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNew
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120BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANBoa
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122BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANoHo
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Jasmin RdSwel Daw St‚124BAGAN & C
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126BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR AROUND B
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134SPIRULINAAn algae that grows in
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136BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-M
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142Meiktila #e 0 200 mA1Pick-Ups to
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144BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR YANGON-B
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Page 150 and 151: KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Page 156 and 157: HISTORY OR LEGEND?157A lack of prim
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Page 166 and 167: THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills
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Page 176 and 177: Dagon Beer Station CHINESE, BURMESE
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Page 196 and 197: BORDER CROSSING: THAILANDTachileik
Page 202 and 203: Greater Mandalayæ Top SightsûüDr
Page 204 and 205: Northern Mandalayæ Top Sights19 Ro
Page 206 and 207: Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
Page 208 and 209: Legend claims that many figures wer
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Page 220 and 221: WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
Page 222 and 223: MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Page 230 and 231: TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
Page 234 and 235: PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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Page 240 and 241: INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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