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162TEMPLES OF BAGAN THE TEMPLESU THEIN LWIN DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT OF ARCHAEOLOGY, BAGANMy recommendations for Bagan’s most significant temples to see are as follows, inchronological order:Ananda Pahto (p 156 )Not only is it an outstanding example of Bagan temple architecture, Ananda is rich indecorative detail, including the four standing wooden images of Buddha, the life of Buddhadepicted in niche carvings and the Jataka series tiles.Nagayon (p 162 )This is the last restoration project that Unesco was involved in and was built in the sameperiod as Ananda. Look for the 28 images of Buddha under the main sculpture.Abeyadana Pahto (p 162 )This is my personal favourite – inside you can see 550 Jakata mural paintings and variousHindu deities paying homage to Buddha.Gubyaukgyi (p 161 )Famous for its frescoes, this is one of the last temples built in the <strong>11</strong>th century – apartfrom life-of-Buddha illustrations, you can see scenes from four Buddhist synods held inancient times.Lawkahteikpan Pahto (p 159 )Also very important for its frescoes, including eight great miracles of Buddha’s life. Youcan read the Jakata scenes as a complete story. You start to see a distinct Myanmar styleemerge here from the Mon influence.buddha or (some locals believe) a Hindugod. Ask at Manuha if the temple is locked.Abeyadana PahtoBUDDHIST TEMPLEap:y'rtn;puqiu"About 440yd south of Manuha Paya, this<strong>11</strong>th-century temple with a Sinhalese-stylestupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha’sBengali wife Abeyadana, who waited forhim here as he hid for his life from his predecessorKing Sawlu. It’s famed for its originalfrescoes, which were cleaned in 1987 byUnesco staff. With a torch, you can make outmany figures that Abeyadana, believed to bea Mahayanist, would likely have asked for:Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, andHindu deities Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva andIndra. The inner shrine contains a large,brick, seated buddha (partly restored); surroundingwalls are lined with niches, most Somingyi Kyaungnow empty. Inside the front wall are manyJataka scenes.Ask at the caretaker’s house to the southif the temple is locked.Some visitors enjoy the sunset at theoften-overlooked Kyasin across the road.NagayonBUDDHIST TEMPLEng:"r®uSlightly south of Abeyadana and across theroad, this elegant and well-preserved templewas built by Kyanzittha. The main buddhaimage is twice life size and shelters under thehood of a huge naga (dragon serpent). Thisreflects the legend that in <strong>11</strong>92 Kyanzitthabuilt the temple on the spot where he wassheltered while fleeing from his angry brotherand predecessor Sawlu – an activity hehad to indulge in on more than one occasion.Paintings also decorate the corridor walls.The central shrine has two smaller standingbuddhas as well as the large one. The templeitself – with corncob sikhara, which somebelieve to be the Ananda prototype – can beclimbed via tight stairs.BUDDHIST TEMPLEciu"m='"äkI"ekY;='"Named after the woman who supposedlysponsored its construction, this typical late-Bagan brick monastery (about 220yd southwestof Nagayon) is thought to have beenbuilt in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu tothe south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many

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