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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEoptions from $35 up. The ‘Top End’ here coversrooms for $100 and over.If there’s somewhere you particularlywant to stay, plan ahead; during high season(November to March) some hotels can getbooked out, sometimes way in advance. Afew places hike up their rates over the peakChristmas and New Year period, and alsodrop them if open during the rainy season.Nearly all hotels include airport transfer andbreakfast in their rates. Where there isn’t 24hour electricity we note the times the powerkicks in.oPleasant View Resort RESORT $$$(%425<strong>11</strong>, in Yangon 01-393 086; www.pvrngapali.com; r $100; ai) Ngapali’s best balance ofprice and style, the Pleasant View lives upto its name with a brilliant location at thefar southern end of the beach, close to thefishing village. The 26 rooms, all sea facing,are simply but chicly decorated with a TV,a minibar and a hot-and-cold shower. Thepower clicks on from 2pm to 7am and the resortalso offers beachside massages for $12.Royal Beach Motel HOTEL $$(%424<strong>11</strong>, in Yangon 01-544 484; www.royalbeachngapali.com; s/d from $35/40) More cosyand personable than other midrange places,the wooden-floored rooms at this complexhave lounge chairs on the deck, and there’s asmall bell by the door that staff chime whenthey call. It also has a great restaurant.Unlike most hotels, it’s set a bit back fromthe beach, with a grove of palms providingeasy-breezy, day-round shade. Higher-pricedrooms face the water.Sandoway Resort RESORT $$$(%42244, in Yangon 01-294 612; www.sandowayresort.com; deluxe $180, garden-view/sea-viewcottages $240/300, villas $300-340; ais)With palm-shaded walkways leading pastwell-tended gardens and ponds, this Italian–Myanmarjoint venture offers lovelytwo-storey bungalows with lofty ceilings andappealing craft details. You get no TV, butthere’s a massive communal screening roomfor movies, comfortably set out with paddedarmchairs. There’s also a mezzanine librarywith a couple of free internet terminalsabove a bar, next to a giant pool. It charges$10 for the transfer from the airport. Ratesalmost double during 22 December to 15January and dip slightly in October, Apriland May.Amata Resort & Spa RESORT $$$(%42177, in Yangon 01-665 126; www.amataresort.com; r from $120, cabana cottage/sea-view villa$195/315; ais) Owned by a Yangon sea captain,this swish complex of gorgeous twostoreycabanas and rooms (request rooms 701and 702 for their brilliant beach views) is Ngapali’smost stylish, although it loses points forless than stellar maintenance. Still, it’s a veryappealing, friendly resort set back from thebeach in lush gardens with a handsome Morris8 and wood-panelled Wolseley outside forshow. Ngapali’s lone tennis court ($7) is nextto the business centre, offering wi-fi access for$15 for the duration of your stay.Bayview Beach Resort RESORT $$$(%42299, in Yangon 01-504 471; www.bayview-<strong>myanmar</strong>.com; garden-view/sea-view bungalows$150/160; ais) This luxurious German–Myanmar joint venture occupies a nice stripof beach, with a rare on-the-beach bar. The45 swanky bungalows have an inviting, basiclayout, and lounge chairs on the privatedeck. Guests can rent out windsurfers, kayaksand catamarans ($5 to $10 per hour).Laguna Lodge HOTEL $$(%43122, in Yangon 01-501 123; www.lagunalodge-<strong>myanmar</strong>.com; r $50-60) For a ‘house on thebeach’ feel, the 12-room Laguna, run by aGerman chef, goes rustic with dark-wood,open-shuttered windows and huge balconies.Mosquito nets hang over the big bedsand a giant circular window in the bathroomprovides views through the room tothe beach. There are tea- and coffee-makingfacilities in the rooms and a beachside massageservice. Electricity is available 6pm tomidnight.Thande Beach Hotel HOTEL $$$(%42788, Yangon 01-546 225; www.thandebeachhotel<strong>myanmar</strong>.com; garden-view/sea-view r $<strong>11</strong>0/130;ais) The least stylish of the upmarket resorts,the Thande is nevertheless a pleasantplace to bunk, offering a spa surrounded bygardens and a handy mid-beach location.Memento Resort HOTEL $$(%42441, in Yangon 01-228 556; ngapalimementoresort@gmail.com; s/d from $20/25; a) The handfulof rooms without sea views are clean andcheap (for Ngapali), but may offer only a bed,a cold-water shower and a fan. They're finefor a short stay. There’s several more comfyand beach-facing rooms too, and staff areeager to please. Power available from 5.30pmto 7am.

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