lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

gling the complex web of financial connectionsin Myanmar’s economy is like unpickingthe Gordian knot. The government hasrecently been divesting itself of certain nationalisedbusinesses – the supply of petrolbeing a key example – but it still controlslarge chunks of the economy.While some cronies are easily identifiable(see p 26 ), other ‘private’ companies are runby government members or supporters onthe sly, or by their family members. Suchlinks can be difficult to trace, partly becausethere is no equivalent of surnames in Myanmar,so each member of the family has his orher own name.When researching this guide, we madeevery effort to identify government-ownedor government-friendly businesses. Wherethere is a good alternative to such businesses,that service is reviewed instead ofthe crony-owned one. Where there is noalternative business or service (ie trains,or the only hotel in a location), a note ofthe government affiliation is made in thereview.It should not be assumed, however, thatall other reviewed businesses in this guidehave no involvement with the government.Ownership is frequently murky, and as inany country, taxes (both the official kindand the bribes that are a necessary partof getting things done) are a fact of life inMyanmar, with no business being able toavoid financial dealings with those in power.Also, when it comes to buying souvenirs andproducts, keep in mind who may be supplyingthem; see p 319 for details about preciousstones and jewellery.Bottom line: the only way ensure thatnone of your money will benefit the governmentis to not visit Myanmar.Spread Your MoneyCritics of independent travel argue that travellers’spending usually bottlenecks at selectplaces, even if those spots are privately run.Familiarity can be reassuring – such as yourtrishaw-driver buddy, or the plate of noodlesthat didn’t make you sick – but the moreplaces at which you spend money, the greaterthe number of locals likely benefit. A fewthings to consider:» Don’t buy all of your needs (bed, taxi, guide,meals) from one source.» Be conscious that behind-the-scenescommissions are being paid on most things youpay for when in the company of a driver or guide. Ifall travellers follow the same lead, the benefits goto only a select few.» Plan en-route stops, or take in at least one offthe-beaten-trackdestination, where locals are lessused to seeing foreigners.» Mix up the locations from which you catch taxisand trishaws – and try to take ones from driverswho aren’t lingering outside tourist areas.» Try to eat at different family restaurants, and ifyou’re staying at a hotel, eat out often. In NgapaliBeach, for example, local restaurants are justacross the road from the beach and hotels.» Buy handicrafts directly from the artisansas you travel around the country, or if you’respending most of your time in the same location,don’t get all your souvenirs from one private shop.23PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVELMY LIFE AS A TREKKING GUIDESome of the benefits, and dilemmas, of tourism in Myanmar are illustrated in thisinterview we conducted with a trekking guide in Shan State, who wished to remainanonymous:‘I’ve been leading treks since 1990. I was a civil servant for 15 years but in 1988I took part in the democracy movement and was put in jail for three months. Theycouldn’t find me guilty of anything and when I was released, I didn’t want to work forthe military government. So I started doing this after helping some visiting foreigners.'It’s a good job: I have a lot of chance to speak English and improve [my languageskills]. I’m even reading books in English now. But after I help my son through universityI’d like to become a monk.'I think tourists should come to Myanmar. If tourists come, then our people can earnmoney. But [the downside is that] all hotels have to pay money to the government –this means that the military generals have more money to buy weapons and guns.’