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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTERNATIONAL $$(Map p 46 ; 372 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; mains K2300-7800; hall day;a) This coffee shop is a bolddisplay of what could be if the city was everallowed out of its doldrums. It’s very mucha hang-out for expats and passing businesspeople,all of whom appreciate the expensiveshakes, juices, ice creams and sandwiches.Hong Lau Lau NORTHERN CHINESE $$(Map p 46 ; 416-418 Strand Rd; mains from K1800;hlunch & dinner; a) Allegedly where the Chineseembassy staff eat when feeling homesick,this unassuming joint serves northernChinese staples, from hand-pulled noodlesto freshly rolled dumplings, under the supervisionof a Chinese chef.Japan Japan JAPANESE $$(Map p 42 ; 239 Pansodan St; mains K2500-3000;hlunch & dinner; a) A kitschily decorated butstrangely cool Japanese restaurant (the signsays ‘Japan Style’), with Japanese staff wholike to make a fuss over you. The food ischeap, filling and mouthwatering with somesuperb sushi.Nam Kham Family ShanRestaurant SHAN $(Map p 42 ; 134 37th St; meals from K700; hall day)This tiny restaurant, located convenientlynear the centre of town, serves the usualShan noodle dishes plus a variety of pointand-choosecurries, soups, stir-fries andother dishes served over rice.Monsoon SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$$(Map p 42 ; %295 224; www.monsoon<strong>myanmar</strong>.com;85-87 Thein Byu Rd; mains from K2200; hlunch &dinner; a) Located in an airy colonial townhouse, Monsoon is a good option for thoseintimidated by Yangon’s more authentic options.The menu also spans the rest of mainlandSoutheast Asia, with sections from Thailand,Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Upstairsis Loft, a good handicraft shop.Bharat Restaurant SOUTHERN INDIAN $(Map p 42 ; %281 519; 356 Mahabandoola Rd; mainsfrom K1000; hall day) Specialising in southernIndian dishes, Bharat’s tidy interior andmarble-topped tables make a nice changefrom the long cafeteria-style tables at theIndian places on Anawrahta Rd.Ichiban-Kan JAPANESE $$(Map p 42 ; 17-18 Aung San Stadium; noodle dishes $5-7; hlunch & dinner; a) An intimate and tastefulrestaurant, which seems to have been liftedstraight from the Tokyo backstreets of yesteryear.The food is as well presented and createdas the décor, and the small menu focuseson soup and noodle dishes.Ciao Pizzeria Italiana ITALIAN $$(Map p 42 ; 262 Pansodan St; pizzas K4000-7500;hlunch & dinner; a) Small and simple Italianrestaurant without any unnecessary fuss,and with passable imitations of Rome’s finest,including spaghetti with seafood anda decent selection of pizzas. The Myanmarchef has been trained by an Italian.Lotaya SHAN $(Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Market; mains K1000-3800; hlunch Tue-Sun) A shack-like place locatedat the back of Bogyoke Market servingShan noodles and Thai- and Chinese-styledishes, in addition to iced coffees and fruitdrinks. They’re not the best Shan noodlesin town, but it’s a good place to refuel whileshopping.Maw Shwe Li Restaurant SHAN $(Map p 46 ; 654 Strand Rd; mains from K1000;hlunch & dinner) The most recent incarnationof this popular restaurant is something ofa Shan-themed sports bar. Several screensbroadcast football while Shan-style snacks(spicy salads, deep-fried tofu) and draughtbeer entertain the mouth.OUTSIDE CITY CENTREoAung Thukha BURMESE $(Map p 48 ; Dhama Zedi Rd; meals from K2000; hallday) This longstanding institution just mightbe our favourite place in town for Myanmarfood. There’s heaps of choice, with everythingfrom rich, meaty curries to light, freshly madesalads, and the flavours are more subtle herethan elsewhere, emphasising herbs ratherthan oil and spice. And despite the fact thatit’s almost constantly busy, Aung Thuka managesto maintain gentle, friendly service and apalpable old-school atmosphere, making theexperience akin to eating at someone’s home.Minn Lane Rakhaing Monte & FreshSeafood RAKHAING BURMESE $$(Map p 38 ; cnr Parami Rd & Pyay Rd; mains fromK2000; hlunch & dinner) If you want spicy,skip Thai and head directly to this boisterousRakhaing-themed grilled seafood hall,popular with local families on a night out.The eponymous monte (actually moún-di)is a noodle soup featuring rice noodles andan intensely peppery broth. If you prefer thelatter on the side, order Rakhaing salad, aspicy noodle salad. And of course there’s all

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