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far plainer ‘standard’ rooms (s/d $25/30) arehidden away above staff workstations andare aimed more for drivers rather than forguests. The inviting pool has a swim-up barand Jacuzzi area, but mosquito repellent isadvised.Monywa Hotel HOTEL $$(%21581, 21549; Bogyoke Rd; s $20-25, d $25-30;a) Set well back from the busy street amidbirdsong and creeper-draped trees, thiswell-maintained series of multiroom cabinsis popular with small tour groups. Interiorsfeel a little dated and the colour schemesare hideous, but even the cheaper roomsare fair-sized with effective air-conditioning,desk, fridge, piping-hot showers, satelliteTV and comfy beds. Superior rooms score abathtub and a chair on your terrace.Shwe Taung Tarn BUDGET HOTEL $(%21478; 70 Station Rd; r per person $8-12; a) Foryears Shwe Taung Tarn has been Monywa’smost popular budget choice. The facade looksunkempt – and it’s worth skipping the frontbuilding’s $8 rooms, which are worse – butbehind is an unexpectedly pleasant little gardenarea and a pair of newer two-storey buildings.Rooms there remain good value for theMonywaæ Sights1 Shwezigon Paya .................................. B12 Su Taung Pye Zedi...............................B3ÿ Sleeping3 Golden Arrow Hotel.............................B24 Shwe Taung Tarn................................. B1ú Eating5 Aung Pan .............................................. B16 Night Market ........................................C27 Shine's Shine ....................................... C1Shwe Taung Tarn......................... (see 4)8 Su.......................................................... B19 Yae Khal Taung.................................... C<strong>11</strong>0 Zwe Mahn............................................. C1þ Shopping<strong>11</strong> Government Emporium ......................C3ï Transport12 Express Boat Jetty ..............................A213 IWT Ticket Office .................................A214 Jetty (for cross-river boats) ...............A215 MGRG ...................................................A216 Ngwe Shwe Oo.....................................B317 Shwe Nadi ............................................B3price, but while they were once relatively stylish,many now suffer seriously scuffed floorsand gob-stained walls.5Eating & DrinkingShwe Taung Tarn has a restaurant sectionbeside its budget hotel that cooks fine Chinesefood and has an unexpectedly chic rooftopsection.Pleasant Island CHINESE $$(Myakanthar Lake, Bogyoke Rd; mains K3000-8000, rice/beer K500/3500; h7am-10pm; E)Monywa’s finest restaurant occupies a tinylake island across upper Bogyoke Rd fromthe Win Unity Hotel. It’s a photogenic spotat sunset, linked to the shore by a roly-polywooden bridge. Fine if pricey Chinese foodis served at open pavilions: bring mosquitorepellent. If you want (partial) lake views atfar lower prices, walk 200m further southand cross the side-road, where there’s a simplerSino-Burmese eatery.Yad Khel Taung BEER STATION $(Bogyoke St; mains K1500-4000; h8am-10pm)This friendly if typical draft beer stationserves Shan and Chinese food, but is mostremarkable for the tiny amuse-boucheplates of namakyien, a delicious localsesame-based humus that arrive free withmost meals.Aung Pan BURMESE $(Phyar Gyi St; meals K2000; h9am-9pm) Thetypically generous multi-dish spread arrivingwith your choice of curry includes asuperlative khayandi thuk (mashed roasteggplant). The setting is unremarkable, buthelpful Bagyi in the attached computerrepairshop speaks English. Similar mealsare served at Su and Zwe Mahn, both onStation Rd.Shine’s Shine CHINESE $(Saik Pyoe Yae St; mains K2000-4500, rice/draftbeer K100/600; h10am-10pm) Oddly recycledfrom a vehicle-repair yard, but shaded byfine trees full of coloured lights, this large,busy outdoor space serves fair-priced delicacies,including eel, duck and catfish. Thecrumbed Slavia fish in lemon sauce (K2800)was scrumptious if MSG-loaded.Night Market FOOD STALLS $(Bogyoke St; h5-10.30pm) Various cheap eatsbetween the clock tower and Bogyoke (AungSan) statue.131AROUND BAGAN & BAGAN CENTRAL EATING MYANMAR & DRINKING EATING MONYWA & DRINKING

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