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WHERE TO STAY?115» Old Bagan (p 121 ) Closest to the big-time temples. Most of Bagan’s high-end hotelscluster in and around the riverside and the old palace walls. It’s a central location(particularly good for quick visits to Bagan), with plenty of day-time eating options, butless nightlife than Nyaung U. Doubles from $35.» New Bagan (p 124 ) Not the most charming village. However, New Bagan has by farthe best midrange choices, with excellent-value rooms from $25. There’s also a coupleof pleasant riverside restaurants.» Nyaung U (p 116 ) The budget heart of Bagan, with the liveliest restaurant scene andthe bulk of the transport connections, Nyaung U is a real town, with guesthouses from$8. On the downside it’s a 2-mile bike ride to the bulk of the temples.tion training with a monk ($45; one hour)and lacquerware painting ($90; five hours).8InformationFor travel information, try Nyaung U’s Ever SkyInformation Service (p 119 ) or the governmentrunMTT offi ce in New Bagan (p 126 ).Nyaung U and New Bagan have post offi ces.You can get online in Nyaung U, New Bagan andat select hotels.Bagan used to have two area codes. A few listingsmay still use the old %02 area code, whichwe indicate, but nearly all local numbers now usethe %061 area code.The Map of Bagan (www.dpsmap.com/bagan;K1000) is sold at most hotels and at the airport.It shows many of the area’s paths, but isn’t always100% accurate.8Getting There & AroundTo orient themselves, many visitors opt for a‘greatest hits’ tour of the temples on horse cart orby car, then follow it up by checking more remoteor lesser-known temples by bike. See also theGetting There & Away and Getting Around sectionsof Nyaung U (p 119 ), Old Bagan (p 123 ) andNew Bagan (p 126 ) for details on getting to Yangon,Inle Lake, Mandalay and other destinations.To/From the AirportTaxis between Nyaung U Airport and hotelsin Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan costK5000, K6000 and K7000 respectively. Horsecarts and taxis are cheaper from the Old Baganor Nyaung U jetties, if you arrive by boat.BicycleBikes are widely available and can be an idealway of getting around, despite the direct exposureto sun and some dirt roads that slow youup. Essentially all accommodation places rentbicycles: in Nyaung U it costs about K1500 orK2000 per day; in Old Bagan and New Bagan it’smore like K3000 or K4000 per day.Traffi c is pretty light on all roads. Early-morningor late-afternoon rides along the sealed Bagan–Nyaung U Rd are particularly pleasant. It’s worthplanning ahead a little, as the bulk of the templesin the Central Plain (p 159 ) have little shade andnowhere to get lunch. The most convenient eatingoptions are in Old Bagan (p 122 ).Horse CartA popular but uncomfortable and slow way ofseeing the ruins is from the shaded, padded bedof a horse cart. Drivers speak some English (atleast), know where to fi nd the ‘keyholders’ tolocked sites and can point out temples with fewor no tourists around. (Some might stop by ashop in the hope of securing a commission; it’sOK to say ‘no thanks’.) A cart works best for twopassengers, but it’s possible to go with three or(in a pinch) four.In Nyaung U a day with a horse cart and drivercosts about K10,000; a half-day is K5000 orK6000. It’s about K5000 more if taken from OldBagan or New Bagan.Pick-Up TrucksA pick-up (K200; hourly 7am to 3pm) runs fromoutside the Nyaung U market, ending near thejunction in New Bagan and passing Wetkyi-in,Old Bagan and Myinkaba on the way. This couldbe used to jump from one place to the next, thenwalk around the temples, particularly on theNorth Plain (p 156 ) or around Old Bagan (p 154 ).TaxiHiring a shared taxi for the day in Nyaung Ucosts about $25. Old Bagan hotels will chargeanything up to $95 to hire an unshared taxi.Hired taxis are also convenient ways of makingday trips to Mt Popa and Salay.TrishawThere’s little trishaw activity outside Nyaung U,where you can get one at the jetty or bus station;the pedal into town is around K2000.BAGAN & 8CENTRAL MYANMAR 8