lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

Ngwe Saung Beache=âez;='km'"e¨x%042 / POP C2000Forgive us for thinking that Ngwe SaungBeach may have begun to show symptoms ofbipolar disorder. These days the northern endof the beach has the air of a weekend getawaydestination for nouveau riche Yangonites,and is home to an uninterrupted chain ofwalled, upscale resorts. At the southern enda palpable abandoned aura – not unlike thatof Kep in Cambodia – pervades, and this iswhere you’ll find foreign backpackers andbudget bungalows. The factor linking thesetwo disparate places is an attractive 13-milestring of sand and palms that, although itwon’t rate as one of the region’s best beaches,has finer sand and clearer and deeper waterthan nearby Chaung Tha Beach.1Sights & ActivitiesAbove all else Ngwe Saung is an indulgent, lieback-and-do-absolutely-nothingsort of beachand most visitors are happy to comply. However,if sitting around doing nothing morestrenuous than wiggling your toes in the sandsounds boring then there are a few calorieburningactivities you can take part in.A boat trip out to Bird Island, just visibleway out on the horizon, for a day of snorkellingand, dare we say it, bird-watching, is themost popular water-based excursion. Boatscan be arranged through many hotels forbetween $65 and $85, depending on the sizeof your group and the boat it will require.If you don’t have the stomach or budgetfor a boat trip, at low tide you can simplywalk over to Lovers’ Island, a handsomestrip of sand located at the southern end ofthe beach. The water surrounding this islandis also a good place to snorkel amongdancing clouds of tropical fish. Masks andsnorkels can be hired from some hotels(Shwe Hin Tha Hotel and Treasure Resortare the most reliable) for K2500 per day.Several of the resorts can arrange daytrips to an elephant camp (p85) halfwaybetween Ngwe Saung and Pathein.4SleepingIn the last few years Ngwe Saung has gentrifiedsignificantly and an uninterrupted chainof resorts now backs the northern end of thebeach. Many of these are aimed at the upperprice range and some, like the AureumPalace Resort, Myanmar Treasure Resort andMyanmar Treasure II, are owned by thosewith close government links (see p 21 ).Making it even more difficult for budgettravellers is that many of the cheap placeshave folded in recent years and the few thatremain are at the far southern end of thebeach. Getting between these hotels and thevillage is a pain, but enough trishaws drifton past to allow some means of escape.Electricity is a rare commodity at NgweSaung, even if you are paying hundreds ofdollars a night, and is generally availableonly from 1pm to 3pm and 6pm to midnight.Shwe Hin Tha Hotel HOTEL $$(%40340; bungalows $15-35; a) Set at the blissfulsouthern end of the beach, this place isalmost within paddling distance of Lovers’Island. It has a magnetic pull for backpackerswho agonise over whether to opt for cheapand-simplebamboo huts or one of the moresolid and luxurious bungalows. Either waythey can be sure that it will be clean and wellmaintained and that hot water will appearon request. There’s a book exchange, varioustravel services and plenty of like-minded clienteleto waste away the days with. It’s thesister hotel of the one in Chaung Tha butcomes with much higher recommendations.Emerald Sea Resort RESORT $$$(%40247, in Yangon 01-520 0890; www.emeraldseahotel.com; r $45, bungalows $55-75; as) Locatedsouth of the village, this cosy resortmay not be as flashy as the newer placesalong the beach, but it makes up for it withheaps of atmosphere and excellent service.The rooms themselves are beautifully createdwith minimal decor making the virginwhite,and very comfortable, interiors all themore classy. There’s a decent restaurant (advancenotice is often required) and a beautifulstretch of beach out front, but it’s the staffthat really make this place as good as it is.Bay of Bengal Resort RESORT $$$(%40304; www.bayofbengalresort.com; r $85-95, ste $115-135; ais) Quite possibly theposhest beach resort in Myanmar, this immensenew compound at the far northernend of Ngwe Saung feels something like atimeshare condo community in Florida.The ground-floor Bengal Suites have a spacioussitting area and huge balcony, andbathrooms with a stone tub and an open-airshower. Reasons to leave your room includetennis courts, a huge pool and a spa. It’s alsoone of the only places in the area to offerinternet, at a whopping $4 per hour.83DELTA AROUND REGION YANGON SIGHTS SIGHTS NGWE & SAUNG & ACTIVITIES BEACH