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welcomes in Myanmar’sNew Year. See p 11 and p 343for more details.Dawei Thingyanz The male residentsof the tropical seaside townof Dawei (Tavoy; p 110 ) donhuge, 13ft bamboo-frameeffigies and dance down thestreets to the beat of the kalakodaun,an Indian drum.JunePack your raincoat and asturdy umbrella, as thismonth Myanmar is dousedby monsoon rains. Roadscan be flooded and flightsto coastal destinationsare sharply reduced.Start of thez Buddhist RainsRetreatThe full moon of Waso isthe beginning of the threemonthBuddhist RainsRetreat (aka ‘BuddhistLent’), when young menenter monasteries and nomarriages take place. Priorto the full-moon day, a robeofferingceremony to monksis performed.AugustThe monsoon is still in fullswing so be prepared fordamp days and transporthitches.z TaungbyoneNat PweMyanmar’s most famous animistcelebration is held atTaungbyone, 13 miles northof Mandalay (see p 210 ) andattracts thousands of revellers,many of them homosexualor transgender.SeptemberThe rainy season starts towind down. Watch out forboat races in places suchas Inle Lake.z ThadingyutMarking the end ofBuddhist Lent, this festivalof lights celebrates the descentof Buddha from heaven.People place candlesin their windows and it’s apopular time for weddingsand monk pilgrimages.OctoberRain still a possibility butthat means everything isvery green – making this agreat time to visit Bagan,for example.z TazaungdaingThe full-moonnight of Tazaungmon(which can also fall in November),known as Tazaungdaing,is a second ‘festival oflights’, particularly famousfor the fire-balloon competitionsin Taunggyi (see p 189 ).NovemberThe start of the maintourist season sees coolerweather and still-lushlandscapes.National Dayz Held on the waningof Tazaungmon (usuallyin late November), this publicholiday celebrates studentprotests back in 1920,seen as a crucial step on theroad to independence.DecemberPeak travel season withmany visitors headingto the country over theChristmas–New Yearbreak. Christmas itselfis celebrated by manyChristian Kayin, Kachinand Chin people.Kayin Newz YearOn the first waxing moon ofPyatho (which can also happenin January), the KayinNew Year is considered anational holiday, with Kayincommunities (clustered inInsein near Yangon andHpa-An) wearing traditionaldress.17PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH