lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

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THAZI TO INLE LAKEThe rolling hills between Mandalay and InleLake have attracted travellers ever sinceMyanmar first opened up to internationalvisitors in the early ’90s. From the junctiontown of Thazi, a pitted highway cuts eastacross a series of mountainous ridges, dividedby broad valleys covered in a multicolouredpatchwork of fields, villages and hedges. AfterYangon and Bagan, this is probably the mostvisited part of Myanmar – not least becauseof the enduring appeal of Inle Lake.Thazis;c–'%064 / POP C10,000Thazi crops up on travellers’ itineraries forone reason only – the town marks the intersectionof the Mandalay–Yangon rail lineand the highway towards Inle Lake and theThai border.4Sleeping & EatingMoon-Light Rest House GUESTHOUSE $(%69056; Thazi-Taunggyi Hwy; r $3-10;a) On themain route to Taunggyi and located acrossthe street from the road that leads to thetrain station, this simple guesthouse is runby the delightful Htun family. The basicrooms are clean, the atmosphere is wholesome,the welcome is genuine and the attachedrestaurant serves good food. Staffcan help out with travel arrangements.8InformationInternet (Thazi-Taunggyi Hwy; per hr K500; h9am-10pm) is available across the street fromMoon-Light Rest House, in the post officecompound.8Getting There & AwayMost people arrive in Thazi by train – the stationis about 300yd north of the main road. Busesdrop off and pick up passengers along the highwaynear Moon-Light Rest House.BusTo reach Thazi from Mandalay, take a bus toMeiktila (K3000, three hours) from the highwaybus station, then hop on a pick-up truck fromMeiktila to Thazi (K500, one hour).Heading east from Thazi, several buses leavebetween 7am and <strong>11</strong>am daily bound for Kalaw(K2500, four hours), Shwenyaung (K3000, sixhours) and Taunggyi (K4000, seven hours).TRAVELRESTRICTIONSMost places between Thazi and Taunggyiare open to foreigners, but the onlyway to reach Kengtung from insideMyanmar is by air. Even then, you aregenerally not allowed to exit the countryat Tachileik, and must fly back theway you came (or to somewhere elsewithin Myanmar).Confusing things even more, touristsentering Myanmar from Thailand viaTachileik are only permitted to travel asfar as Kengtung – it’s not possible tocross to China nor will you be allowedto fly anywhere else in the country. Fordetails on this border, go to p 197 .Parts of Kayah State are open toforeign tourists, but only to those whohave received advance permissionand who have booked a governmentsanctionedpackage tour. For details onarranging this go to p 198 .Fares are typically doubled for foreigners. To geta seat on one of the more comfortable expressbuses between Mandalay and Taunggyi, you’llneed to make an advance reservation – the staffat the Moon-Light can help.Pick-Up Truck & TaxiThere are frequent pick-ups for Kalaw, Shwenyaungand Taunggyi, charging the same as busesbut taking longer and not quite as comfortable.A few long-distance taxis loiter around thestation in Thazi charging $70 to Kalaw and $90to Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) near Inle Lake. You’llneed to bargain hard for a fair price.TrainThazi is an important stop on the rail route betweenYangon and Mandalay, and also one endof the scenic mountain line to Shwenyaung. Forinformation on getting here from Yangon seep 71 , and from Mandalay see p 222 .A horse cart from the station to the bus standwill cost around K1000.YANGON Ordinary $9 to $12, upper $24to $28; <strong>11</strong> to 12 hours; departures 7.45am,8.17am, 9am, 12.25am.MANDALAY Ordinary $3, upper $8; threehours; departures 3.52am, 4.19am, 7.22am,5.41am, 8.44am, 6.04pm.SHWENYAUNG Fare $5; nine hours; departure5am.KALAW Fare $3; six hours; departure 5am.167THAZI EASTERN TO MYANMAR INLE LAKE SLEEPING THAZI& EATING
168MandalayPyin Oo LwinEASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKEBagan2MyingyanMAGWEREGIONMeiktila1Thazi3Ye-Ngan441PindayaHehoAungban41Shwe OoMin NaturalCave PagodaShwenyaungTaunggyiNyaungshwe44MagweMANDALAYREGIONFive DayMarketSankarKakkuTaungdwingyiKalawInleLake2NaypyidawPyinmana5LoikawKAYAHSTATEBAGOTaungooKAYINSTATE5Eastern Myanmar Highlights1 Drift around thebackwaters, ruined stupas andtribal markets at Inle Lake(p 177 )2 Gasp at the sight of morethan 8700 golden buddhas inthe atmospheric cave pagodaat Pindaya (p 175 )3 Go pagoda hopping thentrip out to traditional hill-tribevillages in Kengtung (p192 )
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10TOPEXPERIENCESCHRISTOPHER GROENHO
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Pyin Oo LwinPyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p
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Ngapali BeachTake with a pinch of s
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13TransportMoney» Cash only. Credi
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16MonthbyMonthTop EventsWater Festi
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18ItinerariesWhether you’ve got a
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20PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIESINDIABA
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22TO GO OR NOT TO GO?PLAN YOUR TRIP
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24PLAN YOUR TRIP RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
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26WHO ARE THE CRONIES?PLAN YOUR TRI
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28DON’T VISIT MYANMAR IF...PLAN Y
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YangonTemples Shopping Food Temples
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33Mandalay &AroundTemples Culture S
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To Bago (48mi); YangonNorthPyay (17
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40YANGON IN…YANGONTwo DaysStart t
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SeeWestCentralYangonMap(p46)e42YANG
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44YANGONEast Central Yangonæ Sight
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46YANGONWest Central Yangon #e 0 50
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48ABC6D66ÿ#KAMAYUTUniversity16of Y
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50YANGONNorthern Yangonæ Top Sight
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52HOW THINGS CHANGE…Today, the St
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e#54YANGONSTART THONE PAN HLATEASHO
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56YANGONBeautyland Hotel II HOTEL $
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58YANGONon the other hand, may insp
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60YANGONZawgyi House BURMESE, INTER
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62YANGONL’Opera Restaurant ITALIA
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64YANGONaround the city. The Sule P
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66YANGONfabric-based products, incl
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68WI-FIYANGONYangon is definitely n
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70YANGON8Getting There & AwayAirSee
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YANGON©Lonely Planet Publications
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION74DELTA R
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION76few yea
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AROUND YANGON DELTA REGION78from th
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80AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONfor dec
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82BUSES FROM CHAUNG THA BEACHDESTIN
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84AROUND YANGON DELTA REGIONSilver
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‚86AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONB
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88AROUND YANGON NORTH OF YANGONENTR
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90TRAINS FROM BAGODESTINATIONFARE O
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TRAVELRESTRICTIONSForeigners are re
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From Yatetaung bus station it’s a
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MR ANTONY: LOCAL GUIDEI’m a Karen
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Mawlamyine (Moulmein)æ Top SightsK
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BUSES FROM MAWLAMYINE101DESTINATION
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There also used to be a WWII museum
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THAILAND BORDER CROSSING: MAE SOT10
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Hpa-anæ Sights1 Morning Market ...
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most likely have to hire a tuk-tuk
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112To Chin State(31mi)PaukTo Budali
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114and sparkling wine and snacks af
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116BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR BAGANNya
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Page 150 and 151: KEY BAGAN DATES151c 950 Evidence fr
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Page 200 and 201: NAVIGATING MANDALAY201Mandalay city
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Page 206 and 207: Central Mandalayæ Sights28 Sut Nga
Page 208 and 209: Legend claims that many figures wer
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Sin Chun Yin BARBECUE $(Map p 202 ;
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pay commissions to drivers or guide
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WHICH MANDALAY BUS STATION?221Manda
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MANDALAY TRAIN ROUTES223Sample fare
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Technically, U Bein’s Bridge is p
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high and 9ft in circumference. The
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will probably be charged $3 for a M
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TACTICS FOR MINGUN VISITORS231Mingu
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PeopleThe north is sparsely populat
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State and Xishuangbanna (China) in
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239» Journeys are fastest in autum
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INDAWGYI LAKE241About 110 miles sou
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merous remnant bricks and posts rem
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lock inland from there are the hote
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IRRAWADDY DOLPHINSThe Irrawaddy dol
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St, with many beer stations in the
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TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY-LA
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Pyin Oo Lwinæ Sights19 Family Rest
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Win Thu ZarBEER STATION(Mandalay-La
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play areas add to the attraction fo
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A PALACE TOO FAR259Several years ag
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Hsipawæ Sightsü Drinking1 Banyan
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a sea of rucked-up mountain ridges
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Lashioæ Sights1 Central Mosque ...
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MU-SE & THE MYANMAR-CHINA BORDER267
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270RAKHAING OR ARAKAN?The interchan
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272WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEop
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274WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETA
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276WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATESi
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278WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEDA
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280AB8 # Ú#e 0 0.4 milesCDMrauk U
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282WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATETh
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284WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEBO
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286WESTERN MYANMAR RAKHAING STATEL
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290population per sq kmMYANMAR USAU
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292MYANMAR (BURMA) TODAYMyanmar’s
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294HISTORY PRE-COLONIAL BURMAKINGRe
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296HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAPublished
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298HISTORY COLONIAL BURMAREVOLUTION
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300MIXED FEELINGS ABOUT THE TATMADA
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302HISTORY POST-COLONIAL BURMASAO H
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304HISTORY POST-1990 MYANMARTHANSHW
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306NUCLEAR AMBITIONS?HISTORY POST-1
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308PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) MAIN E
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314PEOPLE OF MYANMAR (BURMA) WOMEN
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316POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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318POLITICS, ECONOMICS & SANCTIONS
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320In November 1999, the UN Interna
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322One end ofthe 1860-milelongHimal
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324ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE FLORA & F
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326ENVIRONMENT & WILDLIFE NATIONAL
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328Food is so enjoyedin Myanmarthat
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330EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) A BURM
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332EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) DRINKS
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334Drinking VenuesYou’ll be hard-
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U336EATING IN MYANMAR (BURMA) EAT Y
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338When Myanmarlocals go onholiday
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340RELIGION & BELIEFBright red robe
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342RELIGION & BELIEFThose with agen
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344BestBuddhistBuildings» Shwedago
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346ARTS & ARCHITECTURELacquerwarece
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348ARTS & ARCHITECTUREMyanmar dance
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Cinema350Myanmar has had a modest f
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352According to localcustom, AungSa
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354AUNG SAN SUU KYImachine. Histori
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356AUNG SAN SUU KYITHE SWIMMERFor a
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358
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360DirectoryA-ZAccommodationMyanmar
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362DIRECTORY A-ZCustomsRegulationsF
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364DIRECTORY A-ZMapsThe best availa
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366DIRECTORY A-ZYANGONPICK-UPShippi
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368DIRECTORY A-Zminute to phone Nor
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370DIRECTORY A-ZVISA ON ARRIVAL?In
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372TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDDEPARTUR
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374TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDBicycleY
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376TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDCargo Sh
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378TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDsee the
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380TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDMajor Tr
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382TRANSPORT GETTING AROUNDwindows
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384HEALTH IN MYANMARInfectiousDisea
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386HEALTH IN MYANMARthat receive le
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uu388LANGUAGE ACCOMMODATIONWhat’s
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390LANGUAGE TIME & DATESNumbers1 ts
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392LANGUAGE GLOSSARYWordsacheiq lon
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394LANGUAGE GLOSSARY©Lonely Planet
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