lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

216MANDALAY & AROUND MANDALAYDINING DOWNTOWNIn the downtown traveller zone there’s a disappointing lack of inspirational dining. Thefollowing reviews offer a selection of places to fill the stomach if you lack the transport tohead further afield. But don’t expect anything special. For something more interesting,get on your bike. And don’t forget a head torch for the journey home!Nay (Map p 206 ; 27th at 82nd St; h5-11.30pm) and Sri Karaweik (Map p 206 ; 23rd at 81stSt; h5pm-1am) are roadside tables that appear only in the evenings, but keep servingcurry snacks (K250-1000) with fresh chapattis (K150 each) unusually late. Nylon IceCream Bar (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; ice cream K500-1500, beer K1700; h8am-10pm) is anotherultra-simple pavement-table meeting place, but it opens all day and offers shakes,lassis and beer, as well as fully perfumed durian ice cream.Crusty shop-restaurant Mann (Map p 206 ; 83rd St, 25/26; dishes K1500-2000, riceK300, beer K1600; h10am-10pm) has concrete floors, beer posters and scraggy huntingtrophies, and remains an eternally popular meeting place for foreigners, due more to itslocation than its average Chinese fare.Bakeries Gold Medal (Map p 206 ; 30th St 81/82) and SB (Map p 206 ; 80th St at 31st St)sell bagged-up super-soft bread and sticky cakes in Japanese style.Pyi Taw Win (Map p 206 ; 81st St 24/25; BBQ items K200-1800; h8am-10.30pm) is astandard but central beer station for barbecues, cold draught beer (K600) and PremierLeague football (soccer).There’s a gaggle of Shan restaurants around the 84th/23rd St corner where Karaweik(Map p 206 ) teashop (unsigned in English) whips up Shan noodles (K600) andsemi-sweet tandoori-naan bread (K100), which is ideal for tea-dipping. Golden Shan(Map p 206 ; buffet K3000) has an all-you-can-eat buffet, while Lashio Lay (Map p 206 ; perplate K500-900, rice K300) offers a pre-cooked spread.NVC (Map p 206 ; Nepali Food; 81st St, 26/27; meals K1000-2000; h8am-9pm) serves adaily changing K2000 pure-veg Nepali thali (multi-curry meal) in a bare concrete box ofa shop. No eggs, no alcohol.For fresh veg, head to the produce market (Map p 206 ; 86th St, 26/28).K800/1000/3000; h9am-10.30pm; aE) Themost central of Mandalay’s new breed ofair-conditioned Western cafe-bars, V offerswicker-frame sofa seating and semisuccessfulattempts at 1970s decor. Foodoptions include pasta, Mexican stir-fry, fishdishes, tempura, burgers and pizza. Whenopen, the rooftop bar has views across thewalled fort towards distant Mandalay Hill.GREATER MANDALAYMya Nandar BURMESE, CHINESE $$(Map p200 ; %66110; Strand Rd, 26/35; mainsK1600-4000; h9am-11pm; E) The food cansometimes be a little bland, but the riverviews from the back-terrace tables are hardto beat. You’ll need to book if dining duringthe free 7.30pm puppet show (in the biggerwedding-style main hall).View Point BAR $(Map p 202 ; Strand Rd; draught beer K600; h9am-11pm) The name doesn’t lie. Whether sunsetwatchingor spying distant Mingun by day,the river views to the west are magnificent,while to the south there’s the endlessly fascinatingmayhem of loading and unloadingriverboats. From 7pm loud karaoke changesthe atmosphere completely. Open air, verylimited food.JJ Café 2 BAR $$(Map p 202 ; 38th St at 78th St; cocktails/draught beerK2800/1200, meals K3800-5000; h9am-10.30pm;aE) Boldly modern angular planes counterpointwicker lounge chairs and traditionalcarved figurines in this stylish Mandalay retreat.The low-lit ground floor has live musicfrom 7pm daily except Saturday. Upstairs isbrighter, calmer and better for conversation.Uncle Chan’s BEER STATION $(Map p 202 ; 35th St, 72/73; barbecue items K300-1800; draught beer K600; h8am-10pm) A cutabove most typical beer-barns and less totallymale-dominated, there’s a wide rangeof eating possibilities here, but the prime attractionsare the polar-cold brews in superfrostymugs. Stretching several blocks up73rd St from here are several equally livelyeating and drinking spots.