lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

172EASTERN MYANMAR THAZI TO INLE LAKETREKKING FROM KALAW TO INLE LAKEInstead of enduring another never-ending bus ride, consider walking the distance betweenKalaw and Inle Lake. There are numerous alternative routes to take you to the lakeshore and, depending on the route that you and your guide agree upon, the journey cantake between two and four days.Although scenic, it’s important to understand that this trek is more of a cultural (oreven agricultural) experience than a nature walk. The only real forest you’ll encounter isjust outside Kalaw and the bulk of the trek passes through relatively modern Pa-O andDanu settlements and extensive wheat, rice, tea, potato, sesame and chilli plantations.At some points you’ll be walking on footpaths, while other parts of the trek are on roads(both paved and unpaved) or even along train tracks. You’ll most likely spend one nightwith a Pa-O or Danu family and another at a Buddhist temple.If you’re doing the standard three-day option, expect to walk at least four hours a day.From Kalaw, the initial part of the trek passes through tall mountains fringed with tea plantations.The second day passes through hilly agricultural areas and the last day is a mixof the two. It’s mostly level walking, the only truly steep part being the descent/ascent to/from Thandaung at Inle Lake. There are numerous alternate long and short routes; somechoose to go by car to Lamaing and walk to Inle Lake in two days, while other guides havefound ways to extend the trip to four nights. Possible termination points at Inle Lake includeInthein, Tone Le, Thandaung or Kaung Daing. Discuss the options with your guide.The winter months are the best time to do the trek, the only downside being that you’llalmost certainly run into other trekkers – nights with as many as 50 people sleeping atthe monastery have been reported. During the rainy season many of the roads are irritatinglymuddy and slippery. Leeches and mosquitoes can also be a problem.Guides can arrange to have your bags transported to a hotel in Nyaungshwe, so youcarry only what you need for the walk – a towel and a torch (flashlight) are good extras tobring along.If arranging your trek from Kalaw, expect to pay between $8 and $12 per person, perday, in groups of three or more; if going at it alone, the trek will be at least $60 for the threedays. Keep in mind that cheaper day rates often don’t include the cost of shipping yourgear to your destination (at least K2000) and the boat fee at Inle Lake (about K13,000).Guides with extensive experience on this particular route include Nyaungshwe-basedPyone Cho at Lotus Restaurant (p 182 ) and the brothers Than Htay and Ko Htwe at SunnyDay Tour Services (p 187 ), and in Kalaw, Naing Naing at Ever Smile (%50683; Yuzana St),Harri and Rambo at Golden Lily Guest House, and Sam’s Trekking Guide (%50377;Union Hwy).terrain challenging and few people in thehills speak English. The going rate for aguided walk ranges from $5 to $7 per day,in groups of three or more. Rates increase ifyou’re hiking alone or if you’re overnighting.For day treks, JP Barua (%50549) gets goodreviews, or you could try any of the Kalawbasedguides who also do the Kalaw to InleLake trek (p 172 ).4SleepingKalaw has a generous spread of hotels andguesthouses, many set up specifically forbudget travellers. None of the hotels offerair-conditioning – in this climate they don’tneed to – and most places offer discounts inthe low season (May to October).oPine Hill Resort HOTEL $$(%50079; www.kalawpinehillresort.com; 151 Oo MinRd; r $50-60) Set around an original colonialbungalow, this sophisticated modern hotelhas rooms in wooden cottages sprawlingthrough immaculate gardens. It’s undoubtedlythe most atmospheric place to stay inKalaw, the only downside being that it’s agood ten-minute walk from the city centre.To get here, follow Min St south, turningright at the second intersection, or hop ona motorcycle taxi (K500) near the market .Dream Villa Hotel Kalaw HOTEL $$(%50144; 5 Zatila St; dreamvilla@myanmar.com.mm; r $20-36) A cut above your averageMyanmar hotel, the Dream Villa attractstour groups and has tasteful, wood-panelled