lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdNorthern MyanmarMyitkyina . . . . . . . . . . 236Bhamo (Banmaw) . . 242Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kyaukmyaung . . . . . . 246Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . .247Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . . . . 250Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . .257Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Lashio . . . . . . . . . . . . 263The Far North . . . . . . . 266Best Places to Stay» Dat Taw Gyaik WaterfallResort, (p 256 )» Mr Charles Guest House,(p 260 )» Malikha Lodge (p 267 )» Basic village homestaysaround Hsipaw (see p 262 )» Friendship Hotel, Bhamo(p 243 )Best Places to Eat» Club Terrace (p 254 )» Kiss Me, (p 237 )» Woodland (p 254 )» Feel (p 254 )Why Go?Fascinating northern Myanmar covers a vast area but for nowforeigners without special permits are essentially limited totwo main out-and-back routes. One of these climbs rapidlyfrom Mandalay to the British-era summer capital of Pyin OoLwin (Maymyo) then continues across the rolling Shan plateauto Lashio. The relatively cool days and crisp cold eveningsare refreshing and hikes take visitors into timeless Lisu,Palaung and Shan hill-villages, notably around Hsipaw.The second main option is taking a multiday ride alongthe mighty Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. You’ll need to allowa week or so if doing the whole stretch between Myitkyinaand Mandalay, but shorter versions are possible startingfrom Bhamo or Katha, the setting of George Orwell’s BurmeseDays. The main attractions are the people you’ll meetand the lazy, mesmerising journey.Far beyond Myitkyina lie the snow-capped peaks of Myanmar’sHimalaya. However, getting anywhere near theremeans joining expensive pre-organised fly-in/fly-out tours viaPutao for which permits take at least two weeks to arrange.When to GoNovember is probably the best time for boat travel on Ayeyarwady,with temperatures comfortable but water levelsstill high. As the season proceeds and river levels fall, boatstake longer and larger ferries may need to stop at night toavoid hidden sandbanks. As in Mandalay, the Ayeyarwadyvalley might have mildly nippy nights in midwinter but daysare warm and it gets progressively hotter into April beforethe rains start in May or June. The Shan Plateau offers aneasy escape to cooler days and nights that can feel positivelycold in the middle of winter. In Putao and the far north, rainis least likely in November and December but temperaturescan dip almost to freezing. Snow can hinder serious climbingexpeditions which are best timed for September or Octoberdespite the rain which makes far-north roads almostimpassable.