herlife | fine thingsWhat are thePerfect Gems forDurability and Wear?by linda r. priceWith Elizabeth Taylor’s jewelry collection in the newsrecently, women are once again showing interest injewelry, not only for investment, but for the beautyof the pieces and the individual stones. Most women look at jewelrywith the idea of acquiring something that pleases them, so I consultedgemologists to find out what gems hold their value and wear well inthe daily life of the average owner.The single most important feature in acquiring gemstone jewelryis the price. The most coveted stones are simply out of reach for theaverage woman’s pocketbook and best left for the super rich, investorsand collectors such as Ms. Taylor. Still, there are many beautifulstones, both precious and semi-precious, that all can enjoy.The Mohs is used in the industry to measure the hardness of“Women who want others toadmire their jewelry might preferto wear a pendant or earringswhile a woman who wishes toadmire her own gems may prefera ring or a bracelet.”stones. Beginning with 1 for talc and reaching 10 for diamonds, thescale indicates that each stone is capable of scratching its predecessor.Industry experts recommend that buyers purchase only stoneswith a rating of 6 or higher for the best wearing and most durablestones. The hardness of the better-known stones is:diamonds (10), rubies (9), sapphires (9), cat’s-eyeor cymophane (8.5), topaz (8), emeralds (7.5-8), aquamarine (7.5-8),zircons (6 – 7.5), tourmaline (7), quartz (7), amethyst (7), jadeite jade(6.5 – 7), opals (5.5 – 6.5), turquoise (5 – 6), and pearls (2.5 – 4.5).Matilde Parente, M.D. and Gemological Institute of America(GIA)-trained gemologist (http://www.libertinejewelry.com), statesthat even though stones are hard, they may crack and break (even adiamond) if they are hit in just the right place.When considering the durability of a gemstone, stability mustalso be taken into consideration. Some materials may be altered byheat (emeralds and opals), chemicals such as acids (aquamarinesor peridots), or sunlight (kunzite, hiddenites and brownish-yellowtopaz). Jade is a tough stone because it resists cracking and breakagemaking it a stone that will stand up to a lot of punishment duringdaily wear.In addition to their hardness, another important feature of diamondsand sapphires is the wide range of colors available. Diamondscan be colorless, yellow, yellow-brown, brown, pink to reddish, blue,blue-gray, pale green or violet (Simon & Schuster’s Guide to Gemsand Precious Stones. 1986). The most valuable corundum is the ruby.The sapphire is the blue variety of the corundum. Other sapphiresmay be yellow, pink, violet, green and colorless. With such a rangeof colors to choose from, is it any wonder that diamonds, rubies andsapphires are favorites of women everywhere?Since the hardness of stones refers to technical issues, whatabout the esthetics of gemstones and jewelry? Obviously, womenwant gems that reflect their personality and their lifestyle. There is82 <strong>HERLIFE</strong>MAGAZINE.COM
little point in have a tiara if your biggest dayout is getting together with your bridge clubafter exercise class while wearing a sweat suit.Most jewelers believe that the brilliantcut is simply the best cut for the diamond becausebrilliant cut gives the most sparkle andthe best overall appearance (http://24carat.co.uk). These factors help the diamondmaintain its market value. Cabochon refers“The singlemost importantfeature in acquiringgemstone jewelryis the price.”to the domed cut of gemstones usually witha flat bottom. While popular in earlier timeswhen stones were cut to take advantage oftheir natural facets, nowadays this cut isreserved for stones of limited transparency(turquoise, jadeite, malachite) or stones withtoo many inclusions (Simon & Schuster’sGuide to Gems and Precious Stones. 1986).Many cabochons are ovals since the eye isless sensitive to small irregularities in anelongated cut than with round cuts. Cabochonsare great for daily wear since there areno facets to dull or break.Parente believes that women shouldtake into consideration their lifestyle as wellas their personal beauty and desires. Womenwho want others to admire their jewelrymight prefer to wear a pendant or earringswhile a woman who wishes to admire herown gems may prefer a ring or a bracelet.Also, women should consider their owncoloring when choosing gemstones to wear.Women with big blue eyes should considerblue topaz or aquamarine earrings or pendants.A woman with strawberry blond hairand peachy skin tones looks good in creamyor peach-colored pearls as well as green gemssuch as green tourmaline, emeralds, greenamethyst and peridot.Whatever your choice, always choosejewelry that you like…and enjoy! ■<strong>HERLIFE</strong>MAGAZINE.COM 83