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travellers’ talesrises <strong>in</strong>to the rugged Talamanca mounta<strong>in</strong> range, you enter aworld of daunt<strong>in</strong>g volcanic peaks, white-water rivers, enchantedwaterfalls, abundant ra<strong>in</strong>bows and primeval cloud forests, allswathed <strong>in</strong> cool<strong>in</strong>g mists, mosses, lichens and fiery bromeliads.This is the land of the rare resplendent quetzal, an elusive birdwhose long, green tail feathers trail like the sweep<strong>in</strong>g gown of someroyal dignitary. Spott<strong>in</strong>g one is a high po<strong>in</strong>t <strong>in</strong> any birdwatcher’scareer and even non-birders f<strong>in</strong>d themselves caught up <strong>in</strong> thesearch, determ<strong>in</strong>edly scann<strong>in</strong>g the trees <strong>in</strong> the hope of even afleet<strong>in</strong>g glimpse. Breed<strong>in</strong>g season, March to June, is the best timeto look – if you’re lucky, you might behold entire flocks flutter<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong> the branches.Most travellers to Chiriquí end up <strong>in</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong> town ofBoquete, the jump<strong>in</strong>g-off po<strong>in</strong>t for many outdoor excursions, butnearby, the hot spr<strong>in</strong>gs of Caldera should not be missed. Surroundedby verdant vegetation and rustic walls of volcanic stone, the pip<strong>in</strong>ghot pools of m<strong>in</strong>eral-rich spr<strong>in</strong>g water are the perfect relief fortravel-weary bones. When you need to cool off, simply amble downto the refresh<strong>in</strong>g waters of the River Caldera.Bocas boasts historic contact withexplorers and swashbucklers, too,<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Christopher Columbus,who scoured the prist<strong>in</strong>e atolls ofthe Bocas del Toro archipelago onhis fourth and f<strong>in</strong>al voyage <strong>in</strong> 1502.Today, that archipelago – eightmajor islands, 52 cays and some200 t<strong>in</strong>y islets – is a major draw fortravellers, its sett<strong>in</strong>g so verdant andecologically rich that naturalistshave compared it with the GalapagosIslands of Ecuador.Hik<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the enclosure of theisland ra<strong>in</strong>forests, you encountergreat canopies teem<strong>in</strong>g with v<strong>in</strong>es,creepers and orchids, blue morphobutterflies as big as birds, gentlesloths and vociferous howlermonkeys. Search the foliage nearthe dampened forest floor and you’llspot t<strong>in</strong>y neon-coloured poison dartfrogs – a dazzl<strong>in</strong>g red, gold, electricblue or green – no bigger than athumbnail and a different hue forevery island. Offshore, the swirlChildren <strong>in</strong> a café <strong>in</strong> Colon of multicoloured tropical fish andkaleidoscopic coral reefs can leaveyou high and heady for days.The most densely populated of the islands is Isla Colón (ColumbusIsland), and its ma<strong>in</strong> town, known simply as Bocas, is a jaunty hub ofcommerce and hedonism, filled with colourful clapboard houses andequally colourful characters. Crowded along the water’s edge arebars and restaurants where you can sample fresh seafood seasonedwith coconut, soak up some lilt<strong>in</strong>g Calypso rhythms,dr<strong>in</strong>k rum and watch the easy com<strong>in</strong>gs and go<strong>in</strong>gs of island life.It’s easy to zip between islands and just 10 m<strong>in</strong>utes away, IslaBastimentos is so laid-back it almost slumps <strong>in</strong>to the water. Itsterm<strong>in</strong>ally idle population seems to consist of wily raconteursengaged <strong>in</strong> life’s f<strong>in</strong>er pursuits – dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g, smok<strong>in</strong>g and dom<strong>in</strong>oes.This is the place to sl<strong>in</strong>g a hammock, lie back and laze away thehours – a pursuit I’d heartily recommend.WHERE TO STAYFor further <strong>in</strong>formation and reservations, please visit www.SummitHotels.comIsland lifeFor adventure, I like to visit Panama’s ‘other side’ – specifically, thesecluded Caribbean prov<strong>in</strong>ce of Bocas del Toro, divided from theoutside world by mounta<strong>in</strong>s, sea and impenetrable ra<strong>in</strong>forests.Paved road connections only arrived here <strong>in</strong> 1997 and it rema<strong>in</strong>sa remote and poorly developed region, sparsely <strong>in</strong>habited andimmersed <strong>in</strong> exuberant jungle foliage.Typically Caribbean, Bocas plays host to an eclectic mix ofcultures. The Ngäbe, Naso and Bribri are all <strong>in</strong>digenous to the area,but the region’s African descendants are the great-grandchildrenof workers enticed from Barbados and Jamaica <strong>in</strong> the early 20thcentury. They cont<strong>in</strong>ue to speak a unique form of honeyed CreoleEnglish known as Guari Guari.El PanamA HotelThis is one of Panama City’s mostelegant landmark hotels, boast<strong>in</strong>gfive-star service, luxury rooms and allmodern amenities, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g a pool,spa and restaurant. It’s located at theheart of the action, with the thriv<strong>in</strong>grestaurant scene of Vía Argent<strong>in</strong>awith<strong>in</strong> easy walk<strong>in</strong>g distance.Playa Tortuga Hotel& Beach ResortA popular place to stay, overlook<strong>in</strong>gthe Caribbean Sea. Situated <strong>in</strong> asecluded enclave on Isla Colón, theresort delivers friendly, professionalservice and a wealth of convenientamenities, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g boattransportation to other islands.volume thirteenSummit29
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