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travellers’ talesrises into the rugged Talamanca mountain range, you enter aworld of daunting volcanic peaks, white-water rivers, enchantedwaterfalls, abundant rainbows and primeval cloud forests, allswathed in cooling mists, mosses, lichens and fiery bromeliads.This is the land of the rare resplendent quetzal, an elusive birdwhose long, green tail feathers trail like the sweeping gown of someroyal dignitary. Spotting one is a high point in any birdwatcher’scareer and even non-birders find themselves caught up in thesearch, determinedly scanning the trees in the hope of even afleeting glimpse. Breeding season, March to June, is the best timeto look – if you’re lucky, you might behold entire flocks flutteringin the branches.Most travellers to Chiriquí end up in the mountain town ofBoquete, the jumping-off point for many outdoor excursions, butnearby, the hot springs of Caldera should not be missed. Surroundedby verdant vegetation and rustic walls of volcanic stone, the pipinghot pools of mineral-rich spring water are the perfect relief fortravel-weary bones. When you need to cool off, simply amble downto the refreshing waters of the River Caldera.Bocas boasts historic contact withexplorers and swashbucklers, too,including Christopher Columbus,who scoured the pristine atolls ofthe Bocas del Toro archipelago onhis fourth and final voyage in 1502.Today, that archipelago – eightmajor islands, 52 cays and some200 tiny islets – is a major draw fortravellers, its setting so verdant andecologically rich that naturalistshave compared it with the GalapagosIslands of Ecuador.Hiking in the enclosure of theisland rainforests, you encountergreat canopies teeming with vines,creepers and orchids, blue morphobutterflies as big as birds, gentlesloths and vociferous howlermonkeys. Search the foliage nearthe dampened forest floor and you’llspot tiny neon-coloured poison dartfrogs – a dazzling red, gold, electricblue or green – no bigger than athumbnail and a different hue forevery island. Offshore, the swirlChildren in a café in Colon of multicoloured tropical fish andkaleidoscopic coral reefs can leaveyou high and heady for days.The most densely populated of the islands is Isla Colón (ColumbusIsland), and its main town, known simply as Bocas, is a jaunty hub ofcommerce and hedonism, filled with colourful clapboard houses andequally colourful characters. Crowded along the water’s edge arebars and restaurants where you can sample fresh seafood seasonedwith coconut, soak up some lilting Calypso rhythms,drink rum and watch the easy comings and goings of island life.It’s easy to zip between islands and just 10 minutes away, IslaBastimentos is so laid-back it almost slumps into the water. Itsterminally idle population seems to consist of wily raconteursengaged in life’s finer pursuits – drinking, smoking and dominoes.This is the place to sling a hammock, lie back and laze away thehours – a pursuit I’d heartily recommend.WHERE TO STAYFor further information and reservations, please visit www.SummitHotels.comIsland lifeFor adventure, I like to visit Panama’s ‘other side’ – specifically, thesecluded Caribbean province of Bocas del Toro, divided from theoutside world by mountains, sea and impenetrable rainforests.Paved road connections only arrived here in 1997 and it remainsa remote and poorly developed region, sparsely inhabited andimmersed in exuberant jungle foliage.Typically Caribbean, Bocas plays host to an eclectic mix ofcultures. The Ngäbe, Naso and Bribri are all indigenous to the area,but the region’s African descendants are the great-grandchildrenof workers enticed from Barbados and Jamaica in the early 20thcentury. They continue to speak a unique form of honeyed CreoleEnglish known as Guari Guari.El PanamA HotelThis is one of Panama City’s mostelegant landmark hotels, boastingfive-star service, luxury rooms and allmodern amenities, including a pool,spa and restaurant. It’s located at theheart of the action, with the thrivingrestaurant scene of Vía Argentinawithin easy walking distance.Playa Tortuga Hotel& Beach ResortA popular place to stay, overlookingthe Caribbean Sea. Situated in asecluded enclave on Isla Colón, theresort delivers friendly, professionalservice and a wealth of convenientamenities, including boattransportation to other islands.volume thirteenSummit29