check-in

to the Terracotta Warriors. Don’t overlook,however, the smaller, often one-thememuseums, such as the Peranakan Museum(www.peranakanmuseum.sg), housed ina classical-style former school, whichtells the story of the Straits Malay peoplein Singapore; Changi Museum (www.changimuseum.com), which documentsthe harrowing war-time tales of Britishsoldiers, Allied Forces and civilian prisonersof war; and the Chinatown Heritage Centre(www.chinatownheritagecentre.sg), whichfocuses on the first Chinese immigrants.Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay(www.esplanade.com) is a major arts venue,hosting both theatrical and musical shows.For a more low-key, but equally rewardingexperience, try one of the Shakespeare inthe Park performances, held in the groundsof Fort Canning Park. Take a picnic andwatch the Singapore Repertory Theatreperform the likes of Twelfth Night andMacbeth under an atmospheric night sky.A walking tour is an excellent way to findout more about the rich heritage of the localcommunities. The Original SingaporeWalks® (www.singaporewalks.com) offerstours that take in the sights, smells andtastes of different neighbourhoods. On theChinatown walk, for example, you discoverthe traditions of Chinese medicine and theesoteric paper replicas burned as part ofthe Chinese funeral ritual.ArchitectureAt first glance, Singapore may appear justa maze of soaring skyscrapers. However,you’ll find charming architectural legaciestucked away between these mightymonoliths. Some magnificent remnants ofthe British colonial era still exist, such asthe 1920s City Hall, 1930s Supreme Court,and Neo-Gothic St Andrew’s Cathedral, alloverlooking the open green space of thePadang, in the heart of the city. Close byare the centuries-old streets of Chinatown,Little India and Kampong Glam (the ArabQuarter), where you’ll find ornate temples,quaint shophouses and bustling markets.In recent years, distinctive newcontemporary landmarks have been addedto the city skyline. The striking glassand aluminium structure of Esplanade –Theatres on the Bay was quickly nicknamed‘The Durian’ by locals, thanks to itsresemblance to the pungent, spiky-skinnedtropical fruit. Other eye-catchingstructures include the Helix Bridge(a twisted version of London’s MillenniumBridge), the lotus-shaped ArtScienceMuseum (www.artsciencemuseum.com.sg)and the dramatic new ‘Supertrees’. Part ofthe first phase of the Gardens by the Bayproject, these futuristic concrete and steelstructures stand up to 50m tall and areplanted with hundreds of species ofbromeliads, orchids, ferns and tropicalflowering climbers.EatingEating is a national passion in Singapore,and the island’s cuisine is excitingly diverse,from the banana leaf curries of Little Indiato the dim sum of Chinatown. You’ll finddelicious street food at the many hawkercentres: try the popular Hainanese chickenrice at the Maxwell Centre in Chinatown orthe roti prata at Lau Pa Sat Centre, with itsornate Victorian cast-iron canopy.In recent years, the dining scene hasbecome ever more sophisticated, with someof the world’s top Michelin-starred chefshelping to put Singapore on the globalculinary map – Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoyand Daniel Boulud all have restaurants here– and the home-grown talent becomingincreasingly confident and creative. Onesuch talent is Robuchon disciple AndréChiang, who serves up inspired creationsat Restaurant André (www.restaurantandre.com), a stylish shophouse on Bukit PasohRoad. The imagination and artisticwizardry of his eight-course French-Asianfusion menu are displayed in dishes suchas sea urchin risotto and tartare of razorclams, and Hokkaido scallops carpacciostyleserved as ravioli in a savouryconsommé of exotic flowers.Spanish-style tapas are currently allthe rage. At Jason Atherton’s upmarketEsquina (www.esquina.com.sg), a slitherof a restaurant housed in a formerlaunderette, diners flock to eat signaturedishes including Iberico pork and foie grasburger. Meanwhile, Singaporean chefDaniel Sia serves up his personal versionof tapas – crispy lamb short ribs with chilliand cumin, say – at The Disgruntled Chef(www.disgruntledchef.com) on DempseyHill, a former British army barracks turnedupscale restaurant and bar mecca.NightlifeCocktails and mixologists are buzzwordsin Singapore now, so expect some exoticand imaginative concoctions. At the rooftopbar of Maison Ikkoku (www.maisonikkoku.net),a chic converted shophouse inKampong Glam, you can sip on a lemongrassPrevious page: The waterfront setting of Esplanade –Theatres on the Bay. Top to bottom: the bright lightsof night-time Clarke Quay; Chinatown is popular forshopping; the Helix Bridge spans 280m; MacRitchieReservoir Park offers a quieter side of Singapore46volume thirteenSummit