global gourmet34volume thirteenSummit
global gourmetthem, and encourages the build-up of lactic acid that helps cabbageferment <strong>in</strong>to sauerkraut, for <strong>in</strong>stance. Br<strong>in</strong>ed pork-<strong>in</strong>-the-barrel wasa precious source of meat and fat <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter; bacalao (dried salt cod)was traded for centuries; and such delicacies as Parma ham and duckconfit would not exist without salt.Such is its moreishness, even animals crave it. ‘When the firstEuropeans came to North America, they did not f<strong>in</strong>d it trackless,’writes Margaret Visser <strong>in</strong> Much Depends on D<strong>in</strong>ner. ‘Buffalo trailshad been worn for centuries to the salt-licks [outcrops of rocksalt licked for their m<strong>in</strong>eral content] and it was along thesesmoothed short-cuts through and around natural obstacles thatthe first explorers began to move across the cont<strong>in</strong>ent.’ Salt is etched<strong>in</strong>to our landscape and our psyches, a mysterious oxymoron, anedible rock.WHERE TO STAY/d<strong>in</strong>eFor further <strong>in</strong>formation and reservations, visit www.SummitHotels.comFreshly cleaned salt.Left: A man collects salt <strong>in</strong> Salarde Uyuni salt flats, Bolivia‘Make salt<strong>in</strong>g a deliberate act,’ he says, ‘see<strong>in</strong>g it as an opportunityrather than a rout<strong>in</strong>e habit. Use only natural, unref<strong>in</strong>ed salts.’Historical l<strong>in</strong>ksTrue purists make their own, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g British chef Steve Harris atThe Sportsman, a Michel<strong>in</strong>-starred gastropub <strong>in</strong> the tell<strong>in</strong>gly namedvillage of Seasalter <strong>in</strong> Kent. In medieval times, the wild, w<strong>in</strong>dwhippedmarshes nearby were a crucible of salt production, supply<strong>in</strong>gthe kitchens of Canterbury Cathedral. In the pub’s basement, Harrisshows me buckets of seawater lugged from the shore, which will befiltered and evaporated on the stove. ‘We use it to cure our air-driedhams,’ he says, ‘and we churn our own [salted] butter as well.’Across the English Channel <strong>in</strong> the Guérande region of northernFrance, seawater is captured <strong>in</strong> reservoirs at high tide and directed<strong>in</strong>to a maze of channels end<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> shallow pools. Along the way, it isevaporated by the sun and w<strong>in</strong>d. The fluffiest, whitest, flower-likecrystals (fleur de sel) appear at the rim of the ponds only when a dryw<strong>in</strong>d blows from the east, and are gathered <strong>in</strong>to piles by the paludiers,or salt marsh workers, us<strong>in</strong>g wooden rakes.For at least 3,000 years, salt has been harvested from underground,too, chiselled by hand from sedimentary layers or columns that risefrom deep with<strong>in</strong> the Earth and billow near the surface to formdomes. Near Salzburg (‘Salt City’) <strong>in</strong> Austria, villagers have found thebodies of Iron Age m<strong>in</strong>ers, the victims of m<strong>in</strong>e accidents, perfectlypreserved <strong>in</strong> salt. Roman soldiers were paid <strong>in</strong> salt, the orig<strong>in</strong> of theword ‘salary’. Entire civilisations have been built on salt and warshave been fought over it, such are its near-magical qualities.Not only does it transform the taste of food, but it also preservesit. By osmosis, salt draws out moisture from bacteria cells, kill<strong>in</strong>gHacienda del Sol GuestRanch ResortTucson, Arizona, United StatesD<strong>in</strong>ers at The Grill, the awardw<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>grestaurant at this Tucsonresort, can take their pick from RedAlaea sea salt from Hawaii, smokedsea salt from Mexico, and Maldonsea salt from England to flavour theunsalted butter on the table. In thekitchen, meanwhile, they use theseunique salts to create spice rubs forvarious meat and fish dishes. Theyalso salt br<strong>in</strong>e their own pork bellyand beef brisket, and even createtheir own special salts on occasion– smoked balsamic sea salt, perhaps,or g<strong>in</strong>ger and lemon sea salt.Parkyard Hotel ShanghaiShanghai, Ch<strong>in</strong>aThere’s a non-cul<strong>in</strong>ary use for salt<strong>in</strong> the spa at this Shanghai hotel,where aromatherapy bath<strong>in</strong>g saltsare used <strong>in</strong> the relax<strong>in</strong>g ParkyardFoot Massage treatment. Guestscan choose from four differentscented salts: lavender (for tensionrelease), rose (for vitality), rosemary(to boost the spirits) and grapefruit(for relaxation).EAST, Beij<strong>in</strong>gBeij<strong>in</strong>g, Ch<strong>in</strong>aRob Cunn<strong>in</strong>gham, Executive Chefat this new Beij<strong>in</strong>g hotel, uses avariety of salts throughout hiscook<strong>in</strong>g, but a particular favouriteis Zigong salt from Sichuan <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a:‘It’s an absolutely pure, mediumgra<strong>in</strong>salt, with a great m<strong>in</strong>eralflavour.’ He uses it to make a styleof gravlax, mix<strong>in</strong>g the Zigong saltwith sugar, dill, coriander, corianderseed and citrus r<strong>in</strong>d, then pack<strong>in</strong>git onto salmon and leav<strong>in</strong>g to curefor 72 hours. After be<strong>in</strong>g washedand further mar<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>in</strong> sherry,the fish is then th<strong>in</strong>ly sliced andserved with a mustard seed and limemascarpone and some fresh herbs.Bogotá Plaza Summit HotelBogotá, ColombiaOne of the highlights of a visit tothis central Bogotá hotel is thechance to take a day trip to theextraord<strong>in</strong>ary Catedral de Sal (SaltCathedral). Around 50km north ofthe city, <strong>in</strong> Zipaquirá, this culturallandmark is built deep underground<strong>in</strong> an abandoned salt m<strong>in</strong>e andis considered one of the mostimportant eng<strong>in</strong>eer<strong>in</strong>g projects<strong>in</strong> the country.Hotel New GrandYokohama, JapanThe ma<strong>in</strong> salt used throughoutthe various restaurants atYokohama’s Hotel New Grand isJapanese Hakata salt, but <strong>in</strong> LeNormandie, which specialises <strong>in</strong>French cuis<strong>in</strong>e, they use a coarsegra<strong>in</strong>edvariety from the Camargue,<strong>in</strong> the south of France, to add thatauthentic special touch to fish,meat and other dishes.Robert Hard<strong>in</strong>g, GETTY IMAGESvolume thirteen Summit 35
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